What a wonderful 2 year ownership account of this unique SuperBike! Yes, I've also got a 2012 but mine's in Matt Grey and absolutely love its understated looks. The Woolich ECU tune has resolved all the throttle sensitivity at low RPM and she's also programmed to start in A mode. Importantly and although the post tune dyno graph only showed a handful of ponies gained at the wheel, the bike's now able to reach this slightly higher peak power in 1/3 less time (took 8.7sec and now only 5.6sec). Other tuning benefits are much less off throttle decel and the thermal fan is programmed to kick on at 90°C. BTW, it only took 45mins to replace the starter motor which is easily accessed on the left. Simply drain the coolant and remove the thermostat which provides full access. I also run blue coolant with 70% distilled water and she now runs 5°C cooler (more H2O=cooler engine). Your videos are clear and concise 👉🏼 I love them!
@@JT2JZ install a Translogic QSXi Intellishift quickshifter to negate any clutch issues and fit a decat Y-pipe which produces much less underseat heat. I've gone with -1/+2 front & rear sprockets that alleviates the R1's grabby clutch and overly tall 1st gear with a Healtech Speedohealer that corrects the speedometer.
Had my 2014 R1 for just 2 years and I'm on my 3rd Battery. Its all to do with the firing order and that as with all other 4 cyl engines that 2 pistons are moving up and 2 are moving down so when you hit the start 1/2 the motor is helping and 1/2 is needing to be pushed. With the Crossplane all 4 pistons are not far behind each other going up and down. So the effort the Starting Motor needs is massive. Like you i have been stranded a few times after getting petrol a few miles down the road and Batt has not yet recovered. I'm 60 (ex racer so slim and pretty fit) but bump starting this was not fun but now i carry a mini NOCO BOOST GB20 in my backpack at all times - weighs only a pound or so but man it can crank out insane amounts of juice and will start my R1 a dozen times before it needs to go on a home charge for a few hours.. I highly recommend getting something similar as flat battery is not only a big pain in the ass but pretty embarrassing bumping it. keep up the good work cheers
The funny part is I actually did have a small booster pack with me at the time I got stranded. They do work well! With my luck the booster just put the final nail in the coffin for my starter. Completely cooked it and stoped cranking all togeather. Made it easy for me to find the issue though! You can see how melted my starter brushes were in my other starter replacement video if you are curious. It Stunk up my entire garage for a week.
@@JT2JZ The only way I can think of that a "booster" could do damage is via changing the voltage from spec. But IF it is only addomg more ampacity at the correct voltage? then it should in no way add additional harm. IOW you can have too LITTLE availabe battery but you cant have too much battery so long as the voltage is in spec. An electrical load simply takes the amperage it will take via ohms law. Same as if you connected your lights or TV to a larger breaker in your home panel like a 50 amp instead of 15amp say? THAT would have ZERO affect on your TV or lights they dont care so long as a breaker is large enough it cant be too large! (although the breaker has to be sized right to protect the WIRING in case of overload but that is a seperate issue) ....I I would say if someone needs extra battery capacity then simply carry an additional battery of the same voltage with a connector so you can jump it parallel to the bikes own battery which then 2 batteries in parallel basically simply amounts to a battery of higher capacity than original ...that should hurt nothing theoretically. Seems to me that a lithium battery with more cca might be ideal solution since it should fit existing lead battery comartment but have MORE cold cranking abiity. To ease strain on bike maintaining the charge I would always connect batteries to a battery tender in between rides thereby always starting every ride with full charge...IOW I think there is another issue at play here...maybe the "booster" ups the voltage OVER spec which would not be good IMO
I was about to buy an 09 R1 today but I noticed the seller had difficulty starting it as you described in the video. Then I watched your video and decided to walk away. Awesome machine but I don't think I can deal with cross plane quirks, cold start issues, vibrations etc. Despite being experienced M rider in Ontario, my insurance quoted me $205/month for the R1. You saved me from a big headache today.
I’m glad to hear I helped you make an informed decision. I had to learn the hard way and trust me it was frustrating to say the least. If I can save someone that same time / energy I spent, it makes my effort on UA-cam all worth while. Thanks for supporting the channel 🙏
@muhib.rr. I’ve owned both of those bikes. My 2004 and 2006 cbr1000rr bikes were both extremely reliable. Never had a single issue. My 2012 R1 is way more fun to ride though. If I was to do it again I would still buy another Crossplane R1 just for its character and excitement
Thanks for putting this together! I've had mine since new, a year after the model-year - bought in November 2013, out of dealer storage, for about $1700 less than MSRP. I've never had any starting issues. I did just put a second battery into it, though. Look out! the Yamaha battery has the (+) and (-) terminals, and cabling, reversed from most of the aftermarket batteries. Get an aftermarket battery and you have to lay it on it's side to get the poles in the correct L(-)/R(+) orientation. You talk about it running hot, and I ABSOLUTELY agree. I've a 40 mile each way highway ride to/from work. Within 10 minutes I'm moving around on the seat to shift airflow around my legs and ankles. When you talk about temps, are you referring to C? or F? Mine RIPS on the highway to/from work! Even at 85MPH - Twist the Grip and it RIPSSS!!! I agree on the weight and the slow, parking lot, type of maneuvering - LOTS of clutch lever slippage to keep it rolling without stalling it. Others have already commented about the ALLEN wrench in a clip in the bottom of the "back" seat. Again, thanks for putting this together. Ride On!
First mistake, under the rear seat there is an alen key to remove the seat. It's attached to the bottom of the rear seat. Start problem: I bought an Antigravity 360 CCA 2.5 lb lithium battery for $180, and my 2012 now fires up instantly. It's also got a remote reserve power for jumpstart, plus I saved 5 lbs. Well worth the money.
@@JT2JZ I thought the same about the big tool kit being unaccessible, until I accidentally stumbled upon the wrench. By the way, I removed the tool kit because that probably saved me another 7+ lbs. Shaving weight wherever possible 😂
Hey, great review, Thank you..Have my 2011 for 5 yrs & Love It !!! Its comoletely modified, although experienced many similar issues as you described, most of it been fixed w upgrades...Ex. Shorai Lithium Battery, ECU flash, Graves FS exhaust, Graves Velocity Stacks, BMC air filter, 300V Oil, 0-Ethanol fuel (quiet expensive but I ride very few/mo), Quatum fuel pump, Davincii Cluster, Domino cables, 80% of bike bolts replaced w Titanium bolts (bike current weight 372lbs/full tank due to mostly carbón fiber features, Brembo M4 calipers (front & rear) Brembo Master cylinder, BreBraketech Rotors, Rotobox CF wheels, Pirelli Tires, K-Texh forks, Rear Shock & dumpner, EK 520 chain w Superlite F & R sperckets and othwr mods...Yes, I'm a went a bit overboard w this one, but its a very special peojecr for a very special bike..Love that Crossplane .It has an amazing sound, and very unique ride experience...Definitely recommend, but certainly agree that has its issues that require expences from stock and letting go off of others for the sake of riding this awesome machine...Cheers
Put a little bit more oil in it. I use 1 full gallon in my 2012 and it eliminated the oil light issue. It uses a float sensor and high speed makes the oil move away from the sensor and raises the float.
Your starting issues are very interesting as mine would start flawlessly every time until the starter started to go bad, once I replaced it we were good to go again - god I miss my crossplane, best bike ever imo lol
After I replaced my starter my bike has been great aswell. I’m thinking about selling my Crossplane if you want another one! Lol Do you regret selling it? My 2012 RSV4 will be the new replacement.
I have a 2014 R1 which I have owned for 3 years. Absolutely love it. The bike never starts first time for me, always on the second go when the Lithium battery is warmed up a bit. The oil light comes on every so often but I believe that these bikes have an oil level sensor and not an oil pressure sensor, its never bothered me. Yes the lack of fuel gauge is annoying but I know I get roughly 100 miles out of a tank so I just reset the trip meter every time I fill her up so its easy to manage. The woolich racing ECU map solves the engine mode issue (its always on A now) and smoothes out the throttle. The fans also kick in earlier after the remap. Re the clutch I did the mod (swap 1 fibre plate) and its super smooth now. Easily the best bike I have owned.
I recently just tuned my ecu to try and get some of the benefits you mentioned and now my bike has major running issues. I’m on tune attempt number 4 but still fighting with issues to keep the bike running at all. Hopefully I can get it all figured out soon. Will be making a video with the issues I faced in the near future.
Hello bros , I bought recently an r1 same model, I have a doubt, when the bike start makes a tick noise like the cam chain tensor and it goes away 2 seconds after, people told me is normal for this bikes until the oil comes up. It is something I need to worry about ? The bike runs normal and feels good
A very slight tick is probably normal. If it’s a pretty loud clatter sound the tensioner is likely failing and I would change it. They are a common failure point on these bikes. A lot of guys switch them to a manually adjustable one
@@JT2JZ it sound loud for me but only for 2 seconds. So is better to buy it? Some people told me is normal and some people says is something to be really worried about.
@kalidos9639 if you are worried about it better to be on the safe side and just change it or upgrade for the piece of mind. I don’t think they are that expensive. Search failed timing chain tensioner start up on UA-cam and you should get a rough idea of what bad ones sound like.
I’ve got a 2010 R1 from new so apart from traction control which I don’t have I 100% agree with every negative you brought up and I also agree 100% that I’d buy another one in a heart beat !!!
I had a 2012 R1 Moto GP 50th Anniversary Edition. I owned it for 10 years. Never had an issue with starting. I had 2 batteries for the entire time I owned the bike. I changed the front sprocket from a 17 tooth to a 16 tooth to make it better for street riding. Buy a new Y pipe and get rid of the catalytic converter, runs cooler. Others have mentioned the Allen wrench location that is also available if you looked at the owners Manual. I never had an issue with the bike ever.
Great review. Personal opinion, the CP R1 is very smooth at low RPM compared to my Ducati 1299, granted not as smooth as a flat plane though. The bike is around 204kg wet compared to the 1299 at 191kg wet. As the R1 weight is fairly low due to the stacked engine and gearbox configuration I can’t notice much difference at low speeds. The R1 is definitely a wide boy compared to the sleek 1299, not taken the R1 on track yet but so far the extra girth is not an issue. No starting issues yet (7500 miles), but had a lot of issues with a previous Ducati 999. Would recommend replacing the cables from battery to starter, ensure good earth connection to ensure minimal resistance to transfer all that cold cranking amps to the starter. Over time cheaper cable insulation breaks down with temperature cycles. Don’t go stock, there are specialist cable companies that soldered crimped connectors with heat shrink made to order for under $30.
How do you like owning the Ducati 1299? I’m planning to get one for the channel eventually. I would love to try a V4 engine as well. Maybe an aprilia because they are cheaper than the Ducati but time will tell. See if I can find a deal on one this season.
@@JT2JZ the 1299 is great, similar but very different to the R1 CP. it is a bit more of an animal (character) and not as easy to ride but is truly awesome on the track. Here is a great review, similar style to your channel. ua-cam.com/video/hxCeJzgm6hI/v-deo.html
I am so grateful to you for making a video about downsides of cross plane engine. Good to know it. I was planning to buy a yamaha with cross plane engine. Now I'm not so sure about it. Probably gonna stick with flat plane. Older R1 or maybe cbr 1000 😊
Even with all the issues I had my Crossplane was still my favourite bike I have ever owned. It’s a trade off. Sacrifice a little bit of reliability for a very exciting riding experience unlike any other bike.
Hello from PA, awesome review! I have many of the same inconveniences on my 09 R1 but they are a small price to pay for the joy that my bike brings me. IMO, that cross plane engine is in a class of its own. Let’s not forget about how amazing these bikes sound too! My 09 doesn’t have abs, or traction control, it only has the three operating modes for engine performance. I always make sure I’m in A mode and looking for places to crack open the throttle. On my bike under the passenger seat is a manufacturer designed cutout for holding the Allen key to remove the main seat. Thanks for this video.
Thanks for sharing! I just looked and you are correct. A small clip under the seat. Literally exactly what I wanted to see! I can’t believe I didn’t noticed that in the past.
Thanks for sharing! I just looked and you are correct. A small clip under the seat. Literally exactly what I wanted to see! I can’t believe I didn’t noticed that in the past.
For anyone looking at buying one of these, iv owned my 2010 one for 9 years and has nearly 64k miles on it, only problem iv had was noisy cam chain tensioner but got the updated one from the 2012 onwards, haven’t heard it rattle since. I can agree though they need a lithium battery
When starting, I have found that if you give it a blast for 2 seconds..... let it sit for a second. Then hit it again. 2 seconds let it go. Then it always strikes on the third hit. It also doesn't hurt to keep the battery topped up. I have a quick connect lead fed from the battery to the back seat to attach a charger without having to get the Alan key out. Also the oil issue at high RPM, its usually an oil frothing issue when at high RPM. I mean 15 mins at 14k is difficult for any system to deal with. I got the same on throttle and low end. The 16 -1 tooth delete is the way to go. And Yes a very hot running bike. up to 108 C on mine. It brakes like a brick out of a skyscraper... it doesn't want to stop. And yes it has the weight of a fat guy.
You can have the ECU flashed. I did this with my 2013 R1 and had the flash profile custom for my exhaust as well. You can also customize for engine brake changes, as well. Having the ECU flashed in A is standard with my flash as well.
issue 1: hard starting. this is usually caused by a faulty pick up. basically easy to start, not a feature of the crossplane crankshaft. issue 2: the level indicator in the oil sump does not work correctly, but I have heard that the size of the oil return hole in the cylinder head is not sufficient. this should lead to insufficient lubrication, since the pressure in the crankcase is probably too high due to the blowby gas, and therefore the oil level will be lower at high revs, but I have not experienced this. it's a sports bike. sport bikes usually don't have a fuel level indicator. if it lights up, you refuel. there is no difference in performance between the modes, you only change the throttle opening speed with std, A, B mode. it always jumps back to std mode so that there are no surprises due to the aggressiveness of A mode. the hydraulic clutch would again add weight and require more maintenance and be more expensive. it would be of almost no benefit. the clutch should not slip even when hot. a typical phenomenon is the breaking of the clutch hub. at the same rpm, the v4 engines are also clumsy up to 3000 rpm, it has nothing to do with the balance of the crankshaft. the crossplane engine actually has the same ignition sequence as the vfr, and the v4 behaves very similarly.
I made an appointment for next week to buy one. It’s on 21.500 km and the owner said he changed two times the battery… This video helpt me a lot for things I will for sure check. Thank you so much sir.
i have an 09 crossplane as well... and my oil light comes on when im riding more aggressive. Ive done a bit of research and asking other bikers... the one thing ive been told is if its hot out , you need to run a thicker oil like 20-50. i have yet to change the oil to said weight , but i will try and more then willing to update here on your page. Also , if you dont have your ecu flashed and a power commander , you are losing about 30% power. these are all things i will be looking into as well as upgrading over time. But i love my crossplane and cant wait to get this bike working at 100% what it SHOULD! i love your videos , thank you so much for posting... also side note... my 09 doesnt have that TCS setting so im stoked on that lol
I’ve heard the same thing. Thicker oil should fix the oil light issue. As far as tuning goes I can 100% agree. Just got my bike tuned and it makes crazy power now! It took 6 months though. I’m from out of country and it took 4 tune revisions to get my bike running. If you are curious I have a few videos up on all my issues. Honestly it was very stressful and time consuming but worth it in the end.
Thanks man. If you like supras go check out some of the older videos on my channel. I have a few good action vids with that car drifting / racing / two step. You know, good ol supra stuff.
Put a little bit more oil in it. I use 1 full gallon in my 2012 and it eliminated the oil light issue. It uses a float sensor and high speed makes the oil move away from the sensor and raises the float.
Starting issues are fixed with a starter relay. Cost me about $au180. (Australian dollars). Replaced it 3 months ago, never had a problem starting it again. I did the battery changes many times years ago, (I’ve owned 4 cross plane R1’s,) and only recently learnt about the starter relay. Sorry to hear the starter relay swap didn’t work out for you. Generally speaking, I don’t hold down the start button for more than a second or so. 3times out of 10 it’ll start immediately. The other 7 times I back off the button, wait a second, and it starts immediately. It’s a crazy tough engine to start, but i absolutely love it. 👍 Lol, yeah, if you wanna get 200-250km range from a full tank, you can’t ride the r1 like an r1. 🤣🤦♂️. Cruising in 6th at 120kph
My bike wouldn’t crank at all. The starter relay did fix my issue for a month or two. My starting issues came back with a weak starter afterwards. All in all I still love this bike! It’s a beast that I enjoy every moment on 🤘
I honestly had none of these issues with my 09. I had to change from the automatic adjuster to the manual style from gorilla. But other wise never a single issue. None driving wise the throttle is touchy but it was my first bike AND my first time driving a 1000 so I guess I didn't realize it wasn't normal. B mode helped me get use to it Alot though. Now parking lot maneuverable is more a rider issue I think because I practiced the skills for during low speeds and I found this bike to be like a big cam V8. If you have the skill you can get around on the idle aka the cam with zero to no throttle input. Even stop and go traffic it's more of a user issue than the bike there. I was brand new and had none of those complaints. Wouldn't put that part on the bike. My only other issue which is common is the thermostat. After riding it the bike gets up to temp and the fans stay on for a long while. If you're just in and out of somewhere the fans draw Alot of power and bike won't start. Cold starts never any cranking issues as mentioned. But warm starts especially here in Florida were a NIGHGMARE. The fix is a lower temp stat and a tune to have the fans kick off sooner. Fixed all that issue
Im a big fan of cross plane.i did experience battery issues,bike so heavy but one thing forsure.ill buy cross plane without even thinking twice. Bike looks and sounds aggressive.i have the bike for almost 5 years now but the joy i get from my cross plane ❤❤❤. Another thing to do when owning this beast is to change your hydraulic tensioner to a manual tensioner, this will save you a lot....cross plane all day everyday If you need help in convecting your tensioner, id like to help.
The power mode setting and not retaining memory is intended as a safety feature and maybe even gas efficiency . My car did the same thing, had to manually put it in sport# after each start
Can I just say that bike feel dosent only start from supers. My mt03 First day I owned it, till today. Same feeling everytime I start the bike. This one is mine. Whoooooooooo
I had the 2009 R1 and a 2012 R1. I never had a starting problem. I used the stock battery for 2 years each. I replaced both with a cheap lithium without issue. My rear cowl had a slot fort the Allen key. You may have an after market cowl. Out of the 6 motorcycles I owned, the R1 was my all time favorite. I did not have issues with it at all. Even after having the ecu flashed and and after market exhaust systems installed. You may have a lemon.
Same, never had a problem starting mine either. Mine has 9100 miles, starts first time every time. Maybe you have low compression or a problem with fuel delivery. Perhaps try it without that Dynojet box. The Allen key for removing the seat is tucked under the rear seat pad, removable with the key
I checked compression and did a valve set. All was good. I am taking the power commander out as we speak. Just waiting for my pro tuned ecu to show up in the mail. I’m very excited to see if it makes a difference!
All these bikes Must have a tune if your gonna ride them hard.. They need the fan to come on earlier and or a diff thermostat, you gotta get rid of the catted pipe or it will roast you.. and a good tuner will have you running much more rich to keep it cooler.. They all started coming from the factory really lean for epa numbers of exhaust co2 ect.. When you get that junk off there its a much more pleasant and happier bike to ride on the street. Bar risers were the best money I spent, as I'm 6'2", but everyone that rode it loved them no matter their height..
The oil lamp appears when you pushing the really hard because at high rpm the oil runs to the back and the oilsensor can’t messure the oil stand anymore. If you go at lower rpm for few secounds it will disappear 👍🏼 i talked about it with my Yamaha dealer and he told me that ! So no worries 👊🏼 i Hope you Unterstand 🥸🤝🏼 6:54
I’m on the opposite end when it comes to maintenance. My 09 is the one bike that has had the least amount of problems. The heat problem that I had was fixed buy replacing the mid-pipe with an M4 replacement and an ECU flash. The heat was bad but not as bad as riding my old Suzuki TLR (Testicles, Lightly, Roasted😂🤣) That bad boy would cook your family jewels at every stop light.
I have about 22k miles on it. I bought it with around 17k miles in 2017. I put about 1000 miles on it street riding. The rest is all track miles. I gave up Street riding 6 months after buying it.
Good day. Hope all is well. Ya the only problem I also have is the cold start. Al I did was install a 4mm sound wire from the positive on the battery to under the pilion seat. If it doesn't start within the first 3 maybe 4 tries I just pop of the seat and jump start it from a car battery. My bike has 77600km on the clock and I had no starter problems. Love my 2012...
I've had mine now 6 months. Not managed to do many miles on it (about 250 miles), the weather in my part of the globe isn't that nice. I ended up buying a Shorai Lithium battery. I run the charger on it every week or 2 just to keep it cycled. Mine fires up after the 3rd or 4th try. The battery cranks faster every try until it fires up. It never fires up 1st time but always fires up after a few goes. It's a bit of a pain, especially when I decide I'm going to take it to work and it's backfiring at 6:30am. The neighbours hate me. In regard to the throttle map. A, B or STD. I find (A) makes the bike jolty. STD works fine for me, but I have a lot less experience on 1000s. The roads are quite bumpy which causes me to bump the throttle a tiny bit, but enough to accelerate when I wasn't ready for it. With all that said, I enjoy it and will definitely keep it through this summer to see if I can learn. After being on 600's, 748's all my life, I had no idea how much faster a 1000 was. Really appreciate the videos. You have been a lot of help to me since considering then buying my R1.
Sounds like you may have a weak starter like I did. I live in a cold climate as well and with my new starter it fires right up first try even when the weather is just above freezing
I always run a bit extra oil in mine.. I use pretty much all of a full gallon... At that sustained rpm you were getting some drain back issues, IE: its not draining back to the sump as fast as its pumping it thru the engine.. That extra bit helps..
Lots of extra weight in that front wheel, I have the 09 Rossi, and was horrified during a tyre change to feel the weight of the front. If you go past 80% throttle you'll know why. Also the front brakes are meant to be soft at first, helps with trail braking, then a good squeeze will always get the rear off the ground! Great bike though, highly recommend ❤
Yo tengo la misma y estoy teniendo problemas con las luces de los faros, básicamente NO SE ENCIENDEN , he revisado fusibles y cables etc etc. , toca llevar al mecánico
My 07 R1 never made it past 6k miles without knocking a valve guide loose. Repaired under warranty all 3 times, but I'd stay away from the 5 valve engines. Cause that unforgettable silverwear drawer hitting the floor is all I thought about over 10k rpm... and then it happened again... and once more. Which totally ruined the crossplain experiece for me, and for lack of my friends attempts at making me love it.
You have to overfill oil by about a quarter quart the vacuum pressure at high rpm causes oil to be pulled up leaving and absence of oil at the bottom. I've been overfilling for 5 years never had this problem again and I push it hard. This is common with all 2009 to 2014 models.
Had an 09. And have a 14. Oil light still coming on all the time. I just ignore it at this point. Ive owned them since 2009. Never had to replace the starter and I live in Florida ride year round.
Have you ever tried heavyweight oil for the oil light? Maybe the warm weather is easier on the starter. Up north my bike is always hard starting when it gets close to freezing and probably puts excessive strain on the starter I bet.
Awesome review ! I own an 2009 one in Black and Gold, drive it every single day, tomorrow on the way to work will hit 50.000 km , I had few times problems with the baterry but was fail to start only during winters when I usually startig it ones every 2 weeks from ( Dec - feb ) recharge the baterry and all good! no any other issues as you said consumable are on any bike and on this one you may burn the tyre faster and change a bit faster sprockets and chain but worth every single $ spent on it! Question, does it makes a big difference between 2009 and 2013 one! thinking to go for a 2013 one because of the traction control and ABS ! whats your thoughts on this? Thanks, Safe Ride!
don't just hold start until it starts.. if it doesn't start on the first go, stop, give it a few seconds (sometimes the fuel pump triggers again), then press start. being stubborn and just holding start until it starts burns through your battery fast
The starting issues are almost always due to the starter relais, because they really like to corrode. It´s kinda amazing that this problem is common in so many generations of the R1... So you should always take a look at that first when it starts to happen, before buying batteries and whatnot. Most likely a new relais will fix it and you don´t need to switch anything else.
@@JT2JZ Well, even if it was only temporary in your unlucky case, it still work, right. 😉 My ´03 RN09 has started to act up this winter as well, but so far only at very low single digit temperatur on my weekly start ups for overwintering. I cleaned the contacts and sprayed a good chunk contact spray in it and so far hasn´t acted up again. Yamaha charges 190€ for a new relais over here which is completely ridiculous...
@@JT2JZ Since i just randomly clicked on your video again and re-discovered my post, here´s a little update: 😅 In April i had to replace my starting relais as well since it didn´t wanna start and threw an engine light at me. Found a nice used one from a local shop for 30€ i think, replaced it and it solved the problem.
Hey great video. Did you check the valve clearances or do you have any concern about the valves being out of spec from the mileage? I just picked up a 2001 Honda f4i with 20k miles and a reputable shop told me not to worry about any clearance issues until I put more miles on it 🤷♂️
My best guess on the oil light is that the oil got too warm, which decreases the vicsocity, so this might have caused the pressure to drop enough to make the light come on
got a 2009 R1 w/ 45k no start. Got a new starter from Yamaha and a Anti-gravity ATZ-10 lithium ion battery (360cca) and it starts within half a crank every time since and its been 2 years
I had to do the same thing with my bike and has also been good ever since. Starters are common failure points unfortunately. More cranking amps the better!
@@JT2JZ Yea and if you dont ride everyday you gotta put the lithium ion on a trickle charger. When it's cold especially I bring the battery in makes starting a frozen bike easier. If it's really cold jump it off a car to not tear up the battery
Oil light sounds a bit same as the RB26DETT in R32 GT-R and this happens because oil drain holes are too small from head back to oil pan so high rpm tend to add all the oil in the head and then pump struggles to get any, result is drop in oil pressure and later engine failure. About the starter, when watching endurance races, almost all crossplane R1 struggle to start on start of the race and pit stops, so even factory teams have this problem, maybe when they get even more horsepowerfrom the engine, starting problem becomes worse ? Excellent review buddy
@@JT2JZ I have the same bike. Oil light comes on every so often. I have been told that these models dont have an oil pressure sensor, instead its an oil level sensor. Its never caused me any problems at all.
I had a 2011 r1 laid it down in 2019 but to add to the oil light issue. Usually beating on it and keeping it in high rpms will cause the oil to get hot causing the light so when I went back to cruising or just letting the bike cool off light would go away on its own. But only was issue when I was racing for extended periods of time
2024 don't have a fuel gauge either. It has a pretty accurate fuel consumption gage. It does not like going slow, but 10k and beyond on a these is 120 mph outside of first gear. My stock 2023 will go 98mph red line first gear.
@@JT2JZ don't have a gauge but they have a consumption counter. I always fill up first thing. Then I know to watch my consumption, it is pretty damn accurate.
Hello The lamp lights up when the engine revs too high, because the R1 is the only one of the thousands of bikes that has an oil level sensor and no oil pressure sensor, so when you ride the bike up, the oil comes up and down, you can see that. that it is not oil does not mean that you have no oil. The oil is there But at the moment the sensor doesn't recognize that the oil is down because there is no oil pressure sensor. I often had the oil light on my R1 when I was driving fast. With the best regards
I've currently had my 2009 R1 for around 4 months now. Yes, this bike gets very hot. Yes, this bike weighs a lot more than other superbikes. But my god is this thing a monster. I've rode bikes both small and big, but never have I rode a bike as angry as my R1. As soon as you start this bike, it's all sorts of pissed off and just wants you to bang through those gears. It has its flaws, but I don't think I'll ever sell my R1
The R1 is king 👑 It’s the fastest bike I have ever owned. It’s still faster than my aprilia RSV4 by 0.4 seconds in the 1/4 mile ( and the aprilia has launch control, wheelie control and quick shifter! )
The manual says that 210cca is the minimum on battery so no wonder 160cca wouldnt do it, lithiums always take 30-40% more CCA to get it cranking really so youre right at stock battery levels of actual amps itll put out to starter. 360cca is the sweet spot on lithiums. Clutch slipper sucks on the 09-14s($70 easy fix) and 09s have the slapping cam chain tensioner issue(again not too hard to fix) and only SOME had starter issues, and yes they suck to BUMP start (NOT bomb start). and the brake pads are the issue on the bike....NOOT the brakes calipers/rotors ......Otherwise theyre so good anyone can ride em in B mode like a sv650 almost...yet even the best riders can beat the shit out of em in A mode fully leaned on a good tire and never worry about it not doing what they want.
Great video I am just about to buy a 2012 going from a light weight 954 fireblade so a different beast. I am missing both the sound and feel of V twin delivery and hoping this is a nice compromise between the way a 4 pot and twin deliver the power
I've been riding 600cc bikes for the past 12 years. Never been on a 1000cc bike. Is there a huge difference power? The Crossplane R1 is my dream bike. =)
Everyone says you need to learn on a small bike in order to be a good rider but I started out on a liter bike ZX10R and I out preform guys at the track who quote “started out on a 300/400”
I started out on a cbr1000rr as well and have no regrets. It’s definitely not a wise choice for most people but as long as you can respect the machine it’s totally doable.
Hey man beautiful machine! Not many ravens out there! The oil light thing is covered in the owner's manual and Yamaha says it's normal to see the oil level light under acceleration/deceleration or going fast. An ecu flash will allow you to start in A mode and cure touchy throttle and parking lot behavior even coolant temp management and the Graves clutch judder ring update solves launch issue. After making those changes to my own 12 R1 it's a completely different animal! Good luck!
Thanks for sharing. My ecu is literally getting flashed as we speak! Can’t wait to feel the difference! I am worried about my clutch especially after the extra power from the tune. It was starting to slip on me if I banged 1-2 shift hard. Do you think the graves clutch mod would add more clamping power and help with my clutch slip as well? It will likely be my next mod very soon.
@@JT2JZ very cool man the flash is worth it. Graves does offer heavier springs as well and they help the clutch engagement feel and response but I'm unsure if that's what your clutch needs. Mine feels like it hooks ok now after the updates. Maybe inspect your friction plates? Free to have a look at them, plus an OEM clutch is cheap and easy as well. The clutch cable could even just be out of adjustment too. The bag of bolts you hear rolling around in your case is the clutch basket springs and it's fine being loud AF! Normal Yamaha slipper. The engine does vibrate alot and can't be compared to the flatplane. It just shakes like a big block.
My clutch is likely worn with the higher kms the bike has so will probably do fibres at the same time. Do you have a link to the judder ring and heavy springs you personally used?
@JT2JZ www.superbikeunlimited.com/ These guys are fantastic and they are who I bought all my graves parts from. I call them whenever I have a tuning question and always speak to a real person. Hopefully you have that clutch issue resolved soon my guy! Might end up making a new regret vid haha.
I just discovered the manual cam chain tensioner could be to blame for the oil level light illuminating under hard acceleration. Blocking off the oil feed to the stock tensioner will cause oil to back up in the valve train(cyl head) high rpm will make this more noticeable. Graves makes a fix for this issue while all others block it.
Hi mate nice video I had to replace starter motor on my 2009 R1 battery as well clutch noise as well and chain tensioner noise are common but it’s something different than any other bike
I've owned 3 of those 09,12 and 14. Interesting the issues you've had I've never experienced any of that? Overheating yes, fuel terrible but I could get 100 miles to a tank which is normal to me. Good vid
@@JT2JZ one of them pushed over 30k, the other two were closer 20k. Also if you flash the ecu the engine mode will stay or it actually defaults to A mode, I had mine flashed on my 09 and fixed alot of the notchy feeling in the throttle as well. I miss that bike til this day🤣 it had full ohlins suspension, leo vince full exhaust system, brembo master cylinder, steel braided lines but I prefer the updated front end in 2012 plus.
I recently just flashed the r1 and r6 ecus and the tuner messed something up. Currently neither of my bikes run now, still trying to resolve the bad tune issue. Very disappointed so far but what can you do I guess.
I have this bike, love it except: 1. Virtually nonexistent engine braking 2. Aggressively angled seat pushes me into the tank. 3. Sharply angled clipons. 4. Starter motor replacement 5. High engine compression engine cold winter starts
AWESOME VIDEO Do you have a power commander on your 2012 R1. If so will you please make a video about it. I own a 2014 R1 I'm thinking about putting one on mine. What do you think. Thanks
Growing Pains With Most Mechanical Machines. However The Revisions Made & Issues Corrected The 2023 & 2024 Are The Best Refined To Ride. However To Each Their Own.
2019 r1 crossplane. I have been facing start problems too. It sounds like the battery is too small and does not have enough juice to start the motor, even of it is fully charged. When the bike is warm, the situation is even worse.
Does yours naturally run hot around 210-220 Fahrenheit when riding.? i picked one up in yellow flame theme, ive replaced a couple of things including 360 amps Lithium ion.
Definitely gets up to 220 during slow speed in town riding. Mine usually drops below 210 when riding a bit faster. Keep in mind I don’t live in a very hot area though. Our nice summer days are usually 80F
@@JT2JZ yeah its 79F today, i hit 225F on the cluster, my previous bike S1000rr never hit those temperatures. could coolant change or coolant hose change fix the problem you think ?
@KelsS1k honestly it’s probably normal for these bikes. They do run a bit hotter than traditional flat plane engines. I doubt you will have any heat related issues. Mine gets up to 235f or so if idling in traffic on a really hot day.
@KelsS1k ya they do run hot. After I got an ECU flash and tuned the fans to come on sooner it helped a lot. My bike ended up being a weak starter it’s self. Check out my starter replacement video. I took it apart and all the internal components were jet black / crispy. My bike was 100% after that new starter.
Holy nitpicky batman!!! I'll start with the Allen wrench. Factory rear seat has the Allen wrench. Starting the bike. Turn key on roll it over for a few seconds. Turn key off and back on and it will fire right up.. dunno why but both of my xplanes are that way. And it's not a power mode. Std/ A/B are relative to the speed the throttle blades open vs throttle input. Be nice if you knew more about your own bike before you start making a complaint video about it.
I have had many R1’s and the last was a 05 I loved it but damn my testicals were on FIRE city riding. I had a fuel light that kicked on reserve light or the oh shit light lol. Does this one have the low fuel light or nothing at all and you just flat out run out? I am looking at getting one but if it has nothing not even a light that will suck. All my other R1’s had a light not an actual gauge.
The oil sign on high rpm is when your bike is still to cold and your sensor gives an error (thats what happend to me) i had this Just one time.. becouse the bike is build for high rpm. Enjoy the bike bro
I’ve only had it happen one time as well. The bike was definitely hot, it was after a few hours of run time on the highway. If it happened more frequently I would consider changing oil weight, possibly something thicker. I’ve never had it happen again though. Still love the bike that’s for sure!
the oil light comes on due to the unfortunate location of the sensor in the crankcase, foam rises at high speeds and the sensor thinks that the oil level has dropped and this is absolutely normal, try using a viscosity of 10w60 helped me
Nope. The origin of all your issues shows up at the 5:54 mark of this video. That Power Commander. I owned an ‘09 R1 from AUG 2013 to SEP 2017 and I put close to 42K on it and never experienced hard starting or battery issues with it (even with living in PA). The biggest mechanical issue I had was with the Power Commander installed by the previous owner. The bike would shut off for no apparent reason if the outdoor temperature went above 92°. Once I pulled out the P/C, had the ECU flashed by Superbike Unlimited, it dyno’d at 167HP to the wheel and never gave me another issue.
I have an 09 r1 and Omg trying to start it gives me anxiety now. For 2 months it started like a normal bike but now she just cranks and cranks till I have to bump start it 😢
I definitely know the feeling! Check out my other video where I changed my starter relay. It’s pretty cheap and an easy thing to try. You may have to save up for a starter eventually though.
@GameMasterAddict235 that’s pretty much exactly when my bike started having issues. Would randomly not start when my bike hit 25000kms. At maybe 27000kms my starter failed completely and left me stranded. Very common on most of these bikes unfortunately
i had same oil isue every time i was going hard on a throtle for a longer period, but since i started using 15/50 or 20/50 yamalube, i dont have that oil isue anymore ,i can keep it oh high rpm whole day
If you still have the red master key maybe. Can’t program any new keys without it. Loose the red key and have to buy a new ignition with a new red key for programming. Labour for Dealership programming is more than $94 alone even if you already supplied all your own parts. Sounds like you have never lost your keys before lol. I have and I promise you it suckkkssss.
Hi I'm having that same problem with my bike, the long crank, recently I started it up but I gave it a few revs and it died. Can you list the battery you have in your bike? Like brand and model, and what website u got from. Thanks would be a big help. -2012 r1
I believe I have a link in the description of this video. Pretty much any lithium ion batter 280cca or bigger will work well. My specific battery was an off brand one from a small local shop that would likely be hard to find.
Flip the rear seat or Cowl upside down, there’s an Allen key on it or space designed for one to help you get to your battery.
Didn’t know that and thanks for pointing it out
Learn something new every day.
Thank you!
@@JT2JZ I got my 2013 Yamaha R1 after watching your introductory video of your R1 with the black on black background music.
So Thank You…
Nice! How are you liking it so far?
Was gonna say the same.
What a wonderful 2 year ownership account of this unique SuperBike! Yes, I've also got a 2012 but mine's in Matt Grey and absolutely love its understated looks. The Woolich ECU tune has resolved all the throttle sensitivity at low RPM and she's also programmed to start in A mode. Importantly and although the post tune dyno graph only showed a handful of ponies gained at the wheel, the bike's now able to reach this slightly higher peak power in 1/3 less time (took 8.7sec and now only 5.6sec). Other tuning benefits are much less off throttle decel and the thermal fan is programmed to kick on at 90°C. BTW, it only took 45mins to replace the starter motor which is easily accessed on the left. Simply drain the coolant and remove the thermostat which provides full access. I also run blue coolant with 70% distilled water and she now runs 5°C cooler (more H2O=cooler engine). Your videos are clear and concise 👉🏼 I love them!
Thanks for the info. I am definitely going to look at getting a real ecu flash this season. Lots of useful benefits!
@@JT2JZ install a Translogic QSXi Intellishift quickshifter to negate any clutch issues and fit a decat Y-pipe which produces much less underseat heat. I've gone with -1/+2 front & rear sprockets that alleviates the R1's grabby clutch and overly tall 1st gear with a Healtech Speedohealer that corrects the speedometer.
Sounds like a perfect set up. I need to start modifying this bike to open up its potential.
@@brendonsoothank you sir! What a legend. 😄🤌💪🏻👌👌☀️🔥🔥🔥
Be aware that the coolant is also meant to lubricate the water pump, so don't get too watery.
Had my 2014 R1 for just 2 years and I'm on my 3rd Battery. Its all to do with the firing order and that as with all other 4 cyl engines that 2 pistons are moving up and 2 are moving down so when you hit the start 1/2 the motor is helping and 1/2 is needing to be pushed. With the Crossplane all 4 pistons are not far behind each other going up and down. So the effort the Starting Motor needs is massive. Like you i have been stranded a few times after getting petrol a few miles down the road and Batt has not yet recovered. I'm 60 (ex racer so slim and pretty fit) but bump starting this was not fun but now i carry a mini NOCO BOOST GB20 in my backpack at all times - weighs only a pound or so but man it can crank out insane amounts of juice and will start my R1 a dozen times before it needs to go on a home charge for a few hours.. I highly recommend getting something similar as flat battery is not only a big pain in the ass but pretty embarrassing bumping it. keep up the good work cheers
The funny part is I actually did have a small booster pack with me at the time I got stranded. They do work well!
With my luck the booster just put the final nail in the coffin for my starter. Completely cooked it and stoped cranking all togeather. Made it easy for me to find the issue though!
You can see how melted my starter brushes were in my other starter replacement video if you are curious. It Stunk up my entire garage for a week.
@@JT2JZ The only way I can think of that a "booster" could do damage is via changing the voltage from spec. But IF it is only addomg more ampacity at the correct voltage? then it should in no way add additional harm. IOW you can have too LITTLE availabe battery but you cant have too much battery so long as the voltage is in spec. An electrical load simply takes the amperage it will take via ohms law. Same as if you connected your lights or TV to a larger breaker in your home panel like a 50 amp instead of 15amp say? THAT would have ZERO affect on your TV or lights they dont care so long as a breaker is large enough it cant be too large! (although the breaker has to be sized right to protect the WIRING in case of overload but that is a seperate issue) ....I I would say if someone needs extra battery capacity then simply carry an additional battery of the same voltage with a connector so you can jump it parallel to the bikes own battery which then 2 batteries in parallel basically simply amounts to a battery of higher capacity than original ...that should hurt nothing theoretically. Seems to me that a lithium battery with more cca might be ideal solution since it should fit existing lead battery comartment but have MORE cold cranking abiity. To ease strain on bike maintaining the charge I would always connect batteries to a battery tender in between rides thereby always starting every ride with full charge...IOW I think there is another issue at play here...maybe the "booster" ups the voltage OVER spec which would not be good IMO
I was about to buy an 09 R1 today but I noticed the seller had difficulty starting it as you described in the video. Then I watched your video and decided to walk away. Awesome machine but I don't think I can deal with cross plane quirks, cold start issues, vibrations etc. Despite being experienced M rider in Ontario, my insurance quoted me $205/month for the R1. You saved me from a big headache today.
I’m glad to hear I helped you make an informed decision.
I had to learn the hard way and trust me it was frustrating to say the least.
If I can save someone that same time / energy I spent, it makes my effort on UA-cam all worth while.
Thanks for supporting the channel 🙏
@@JT2JZ the seller dropped the price and I am so tempted lol. I don't know if I should get this or 09 cbr1000rr. Help me decide!
@muhib.rr.
I’ve owned both of those bikes. My 2004 and 2006 cbr1000rr bikes were both extremely reliable. Never had a single issue.
My 2012 R1 is way more fun to ride though. If I was to do it again I would still buy another Crossplane R1 just for its character and excitement
@@JT2JZ
The other cbr I am looking at is also 2009. Where are you from in Canada?
@@JT2JZdid you buy the fucking r1 or what bro
Thanks for putting this together! I've had mine since new, a year after the model-year - bought in November 2013, out of dealer storage, for about $1700 less than MSRP. I've never had any starting issues. I did just put a second battery into it, though. Look out! the Yamaha battery has the (+) and (-) terminals, and cabling, reversed from most of the aftermarket batteries. Get an aftermarket battery and you have to lay it on it's side to get the poles in the correct L(-)/R(+) orientation. You talk about it running hot, and I ABSOLUTELY agree. I've a 40 mile each way highway ride to/from work. Within 10 minutes I'm moving around on the seat to shift airflow around my legs and ankles. When you talk about temps, are you referring to C? or F? Mine RIPS on the highway to/from work! Even at 85MPH - Twist the Grip and it RIPSSS!!! I agree on the weight and the slow, parking lot, type of maneuvering - LOTS of clutch lever slippage to keep it rolling without stalling it. Others have already commented about the ALLEN wrench in a clip in the bottom of the "back" seat. Again, thanks for putting this together. Ride On!
First mistake, under the rear seat there is an alen key to remove the seat. It's attached to the bottom of the rear seat.
Start problem: I bought an Antigravity 360 CCA 2.5 lb lithium battery for $180, and my 2012 now fires up instantly. It's also got a remote reserve power for jumpstart, plus I saved 5 lbs. Well worth the money.
Ya the lithium ion batteries are awesome. It helped my bike for a few months but my starter still failed afterwards unfortunately.
@@JT2JZ I thought the same about the big tool kit being unaccessible, until I accidentally stumbled upon the wrench. By the way, I removed the tool kit because that probably saved me another 7+ lbs. Shaving weight wherever possible 😂
lithiums always need to be 25-30% to match a good AGM battery it seems. 340-380 is the sweet spot for lithiums
Hey, great review, Thank you..Have my 2011 for 5 yrs & Love It !!! Its comoletely modified, although experienced many similar issues as you described, most of it been fixed w upgrades...Ex. Shorai Lithium Battery, ECU flash, Graves FS exhaust, Graves Velocity Stacks, BMC air filter, 300V Oil, 0-Ethanol fuel (quiet expensive but I ride very few/mo), Quatum fuel pump, Davincii Cluster, Domino cables, 80% of bike bolts replaced w Titanium bolts (bike current weight 372lbs/full tank due to mostly carbón fiber features, Brembo M4 calipers (front & rear) Brembo Master cylinder, BreBraketech Rotors, Rotobox CF wheels, Pirelli Tires, K-Texh forks, Rear Shock & dumpner, EK 520 chain w Superlite F & R sperckets and othwr mods...Yes, I'm a went a bit overboard w this one, but its a very special peojecr for a very special bike..Love that Crossplane .It has an amazing sound, and very unique ride experience...Definitely recommend, but certainly agree that has its issues that require expences from stock and letting go off of others for the sake of riding this awesome machine...Cheers
Put a little bit more oil in it. I use 1 full gallon in my 2012 and it eliminated the oil light issue. It uses a float sensor and high speed makes the oil move away from the sensor and raises the float.
I’ll definitely try that. Thanks for sharing
The factory pillion seat does actually have a hex key clipped underneath to undo the rider seat bolts to get to the tool kit.
Your starting issues are very interesting as mine would start flawlessly every time until the starter started to go bad, once I replaced it we were good to go again - god I miss my crossplane, best bike ever imo lol
After I replaced my starter my bike has been great aswell.
I’m thinking about selling my Crossplane if you want another one! Lol
Do you regret selling it?
My 2012 RSV4 will be the new replacement.
Before replacing the starter.should try replacing the starter relay.because it always gets corroded.
I have a 2014 R1 which I have owned for 3 years. Absolutely love it. The bike never starts first time for me, always on the second go when the Lithium battery is warmed up a bit. The oil light comes on every so often but I believe that these bikes have an oil level sensor and not an oil pressure sensor, its never bothered me. Yes the lack of fuel gauge is annoying but I know I get roughly 100 miles out of a tank so I just reset the trip meter every time I fill her up so its easy to manage. The woolich racing ECU map solves the engine mode issue (its always on A now) and smoothes out the throttle. The fans also kick in earlier after the remap. Re the clutch I did the mod (swap 1 fibre plate) and its super smooth now. Easily the best bike I have owned.
I recently just tuned my ecu to try and get some of the benefits you mentioned and now my bike has major running issues. I’m on tune attempt number 4 but still fighting with issues to keep the bike running at all.
Hopefully I can get it all figured out soon. Will be making a video with the issues I faced in the near future.
Hello bros , I bought recently an r1 same model, I have a doubt, when the bike start makes a tick noise like the cam chain tensor and it goes away 2 seconds after, people told me is normal for this bikes until the oil comes up. It is something I need to worry about ? The bike runs normal and feels good
A very slight tick is probably normal. If it’s a pretty loud clatter sound the tensioner is likely failing and I would change it. They are a common failure point on these bikes. A lot of guys switch them to a manually adjustable one
@@JT2JZ it sound loud for me but only for 2 seconds. So is better to buy it? Some people told me is normal and some people says is something to be really worried about.
@kalidos9639 if you are worried about it better to be on the safe side and just change it or upgrade for the piece of mind. I don’t think they are that expensive.
Search failed timing chain tensioner start up on UA-cam and you should get a rough idea of what bad ones sound like.
I’ve got a 2010 R1 from new so apart from traction control which I don’t have I 100% agree with every negative you brought up and I also agree 100% that I’d buy another one in a heart beat !!!
I had a 2012 R1 Moto GP 50th Anniversary Edition. I owned it for 10 years. Never had an issue with starting. I had 2 batteries for the entire time I owned the bike. I changed the front sprocket from a 17 tooth to a 16 tooth to make it better for street riding. Buy a new Y pipe and get rid of the catalytic converter, runs cooler. Others have mentioned the Allen wrench location that is also available if you looked at the owners Manual. I never had an issue with the bike ever.
Great review. Personal opinion, the CP R1 is very smooth at low RPM compared to my Ducati 1299, granted not as smooth as a flat plane though. The bike is around 204kg wet compared to the 1299 at 191kg wet. As the R1 weight is fairly low due to the stacked engine and gearbox configuration I can’t notice much difference at low speeds. The R1 is definitely a wide boy compared to the sleek 1299, not taken the R1 on track yet but so far the extra girth is not an issue. No starting issues yet (7500 miles), but had a lot of issues with a previous Ducati 999. Would recommend replacing the cables from battery to starter, ensure good earth connection to ensure minimal resistance to transfer all that cold cranking amps to the starter. Over time cheaper cable insulation breaks down with temperature cycles. Don’t go stock, there are specialist cable companies that soldered crimped connectors with heat shrink made to order for under $30.
Great info. If I ever have my tank off again I will ohm cables end to end and see if they have excessive resistance.
How do you like owning the Ducati 1299? I’m planning to get one for the channel eventually. I would love to try a V4 engine as well. Maybe an aprilia because they are cheaper than the Ducati but time will tell. See if I can find a deal on one this season.
@@JT2JZ the 1299 is great, similar but very different to the R1 CP. it is a bit more of an animal (character) and not as easy to ride but is truly awesome on the track. Here is a great review, similar style to your channel. ua-cam.com/video/hxCeJzgm6hI/v-deo.html
That’s a great video. Thanks for sharing
Everything is smooth in comparison to the 1299. 😂😂😂
I have a 2012 and your content was instrumental in pushing me to get it.
I’m glad you found some value in my videos. Hearing that makes all the effort spent video editing worth it on my end.
I am so grateful to you for making a video about downsides of cross plane engine.
Good to know it.
I was planning to buy a yamaha with cross plane engine.
Now I'm not so sure about it.
Probably gonna stick with flat plane.
Older R1 or maybe cbr 1000 😊
Even with all the issues I had my Crossplane was still my favourite bike I have ever owned.
It’s a trade off. Sacrifice a little bit of reliability for a very exciting riding experience unlike any other bike.
Hello from PA, awesome review! I have many of the same inconveniences on my 09 R1 but they are a small price to pay for the joy that my bike brings me. IMO, that cross plane engine is in a class of its own. Let’s not forget about how amazing these bikes sound too! My 09 doesn’t have abs, or traction control, it only has the three operating modes for engine performance. I always make sure I’m in A mode and looking for places to crack open the throttle. On my bike under the passenger seat is a manufacturer designed cutout for holding the Allen key to remove the main seat. Thanks for this video.
Thanks for sharing!
I just looked and you are correct. A small clip under the seat. Literally exactly what I wanted to see! I can’t believe I didn’t noticed that in the past.
Thanks for sharing!
I just looked and you are correct. A small clip under the seat. Literally exactly what I wanted to see! I can’t believe I didn’t noticed that in the past.
For anyone looking at buying one of these, iv owned my 2010 one for 9 years and has nearly 64k miles on it, only problem iv had was noisy cam chain tensioner but got the updated one from the 2012 onwards, haven’t heard it rattle since. I can agree though they need a lithium battery
Oil light.
Fill it to the maximum.
You need high quality oil. If your oil is foaming the light will turn on.
I am running amsoil 10w40. I might try a heavier weight
When starting, I have found that if you give it a blast for 2 seconds..... let it sit for a second. Then hit it again. 2 seconds let it go. Then it always strikes on the third hit. It also doesn't hurt to keep the battery topped up. I have a quick connect lead fed from the battery to the back seat to attach a charger without having to get the Alan key out.
Also the oil issue at high RPM, its usually an oil frothing issue when at high RPM. I mean 15 mins at 14k is difficult for any system to deal with.
I got the same on throttle and low end. The 16 -1 tooth delete is the way to go. And Yes a very hot running bike. up to 108 C on mine.
It brakes like a brick out of a skyscraper... it doesn't want to stop. And yes it has the weight of a fat guy.
You can have the ECU flashed. I did this with my 2013 R1 and had the flash profile custom for my exhaust as well. You can also customize for engine brake changes, as well. Having the ECU flashed in A is standard with my flash as well.
issue 1: hard starting. this is usually caused by a faulty pick up. basically easy to start, not a feature of the crossplane crankshaft.
issue 2: the level indicator in the oil sump does not work correctly, but I have heard that the size of the oil return hole in the cylinder head is not sufficient. this should lead to insufficient lubrication, since the pressure in the crankcase is probably too high due to the blowby gas, and therefore the oil level will be lower at high revs, but I have not experienced this.
it's a sports bike. sport bikes usually don't have a fuel level indicator. if it lights up, you refuel.
there is no difference in performance between the modes, you only change the throttle opening speed with std, A, B mode. it always jumps back to std mode so that there are no surprises due to the aggressiveness of A mode.
the hydraulic clutch would again add weight and require more maintenance and be more expensive. it would be of almost no benefit.
the clutch should not slip even when hot. a typical phenomenon is the breaking of the clutch hub.
at the same rpm, the v4 engines are also clumsy up to 3000 rpm, it has nothing to do with the balance of the crankshaft.
the crossplane engine actually has the same ignition sequence as the vfr, and the v4 behaves very similarly.
I made an appointment for next week to buy one. It’s on 21.500 km and the owner said he changed two times the battery… This video helpt me a lot for things I will for sure check. Thank you so much sir.
Glad I could help.
I’m sure you will enjoy the new ride, these bikes are awesome at the end of the day 👌
i have an 09 crossplane as well... and my oil light comes on when im riding more aggressive. Ive done a bit of research and asking other bikers... the one thing ive been told is if its hot out , you need to run a thicker oil like 20-50. i have yet to change the oil to said weight , but i will try and more then willing to update here on your page. Also , if you dont have your ecu flashed and a power commander , you are losing about 30% power. these are all things i will be looking into as well as upgrading over time. But i love my crossplane and cant wait to get this bike working at 100% what it SHOULD! i love your videos , thank you so much for posting... also side note... my 09 doesnt have that TCS setting so im stoked on that lol
I’ve heard the same thing. Thicker oil should fix the oil light issue.
As far as tuning goes I can 100% agree. Just got my bike tuned and it makes crazy power now! It took 6 months though. I’m from out of country and it took 4 tune revisions to get my bike running.
If you are curious I have a few videos up on all my issues. Honestly it was very stressful and time consuming but worth it in the end.
@@JT2JZ my bike does NOT have the starting issue like yours.. its super weird... but again ty for all the videos and information
Thanks man. If you like supras go check out some of the older videos on my channel. I have a few good action vids with that car drifting / racing / two step. You know, good ol supra stuff.
Put a little bit more oil in it. I use 1 full gallon in my 2012 and it eliminated the oil light issue. It uses a float sensor and high speed makes the oil move away from the sensor and raises the float.
Starting issues are fixed with a starter relay. Cost me about $au180. (Australian dollars). Replaced it 3 months ago, never had a problem starting it again.
I did the battery changes many times years ago, (I’ve owned 4 cross plane R1’s,) and only recently learnt about the starter relay.
Sorry to hear the starter relay swap didn’t work out for you. Generally speaking, I don’t hold down the start button for more than a second or so. 3times out of 10 it’ll start immediately. The other 7 times I back off the button, wait a second, and it starts immediately.
It’s a crazy tough engine to start, but i absolutely love it. 👍
Lol, yeah, if you wanna get 200-250km range from a full tank, you can’t ride the r1 like an r1. 🤣🤦♂️. Cruising in 6th at 120kph
My bike wouldn’t crank at all. The starter relay did fix my issue for a month or two. My starting issues came back with a weak starter afterwards.
All in all I still love this bike! It’s a beast that I enjoy every moment on 🤘
@@JT2JZ 👍
I honestly had none of these issues with my 09. I had to change from the automatic adjuster to the manual style from gorilla. But other wise never a single issue. None driving wise the throttle is touchy but it was my first bike AND my first time driving a 1000 so I guess I didn't realize it wasn't normal. B mode helped me get use to it Alot though. Now parking lot maneuverable is more a rider issue I think because I practiced the skills for during low speeds and I found this bike to be like a big cam V8. If you have the skill you can get around on the idle aka the cam with zero to no throttle input. Even stop and go traffic it's more of a user issue than the bike there. I was brand new and had none of those complaints. Wouldn't put that part on the bike. My only other issue which is common is the thermostat. After riding it the bike gets up to temp and the fans stay on for a long while. If you're just in and out of somewhere the fans draw Alot of power and bike won't start. Cold starts never any cranking issues as mentioned. But warm starts especially here in Florida were a NIGHGMARE. The fix is a lower temp stat and a tune to have the fans kick off sooner. Fixed all that issue
“Bump start” bomb 😅
Im a big fan of cross plane.i did experience battery issues,bike so heavy but one thing forsure.ill buy cross plane without even thinking twice. Bike looks and sounds aggressive.i have the bike for almost 5 years now but the joy i get from my cross plane ❤❤❤. Another thing to do when owning this beast is to change your hydraulic tensioner to a manual tensioner, this will save you a lot....cross plane all day everyday
If you need help in convecting your tensioner, id like to help.
I am looking at a R1 Raven today. Great info
Can’t go wrong with a raven! Definitely my favourite trim package
Easy remedy for the default drive mode….When I had it on the dyno we flashed the ecu while tuning and set it to default to “A” mode. 😎👌🏻
The power mode setting and not retaining memory is intended as a safety feature and maybe even gas efficiency . My car did the same thing, had to manually put it in sport# after each start
Pain in the a$$ ehh?
having the same years and same oil light issues. thicker oil is the remedy.and yup, engine is best when the RPM point north :)
Can I just say that bike feel dosent only start from supers. My mt03
First day I owned it, till today. Same feeling everytime I start the bike. This one is mine.
Whoooooooooo
I had the 2009 R1 and a 2012 R1. I never had a starting problem. I used the stock battery for 2 years each. I replaced both with a cheap lithium without issue. My rear cowl had a slot fort the Allen key. You may have an after market cowl. Out of the 6 motorcycles I owned, the R1 was my all time favorite. I did not have issues with it at all. Even after having the ecu flashed and and after market exhaust systems installed. You may have a lemon.
How many kms did your R1 have?
@@JT2JZ I had 11800 on the first one when it was stolen. The 2012 had just about 9800 miles on it.
I wish I could find one with low mileage like you did. A lot of my issues are likely just wear n tear of an older higher mileage bike.
Same, never had a problem starting mine either. Mine has 9100 miles, starts first time every time. Maybe you have low compression or a problem with fuel delivery. Perhaps try it without that Dynojet box. The Allen key for removing the seat is tucked under the rear seat pad, removable with the key
I checked compression and did a valve set. All was good.
I am taking the power commander out as we speak. Just waiting for my pro tuned ecu to show up in the mail. I’m very excited to see if it makes a difference!
All these bikes Must have a tune if your gonna ride them hard.. They need the fan to come on earlier and or a diff thermostat, you gotta get rid of the catted pipe or it will roast you.. and a good tuner will have you running much more rich to keep it cooler.. They all started coming from the factory really lean for epa numbers of exhaust co2 ect.. When you get that junk off there its a much more pleasant and happier bike to ride on the street. Bar risers were the best money I spent, as I'm 6'2", but everyone that rode it loved them no matter their height..
The oil lamp appears when you pushing the really hard because at high rpm the oil runs to the back and the oilsensor can’t messure the oil stand anymore. If you go at lower rpm for few secounds it will disappear 👍🏼 i talked about it with my Yamaha dealer and he told me that ! So no worries 👊🏼 i Hope you Unterstand 🥸🤝🏼 6:54
Good info! Thanks for sharing
I’m on the opposite end when it comes to maintenance. My 09 is the one bike that has had the least amount of problems. The heat problem that I had was fixed buy replacing the mid-pipe with an M4 replacement and an ECU flash. The heat was bad but not as bad as riding my old Suzuki TLR (Testicles, Lightly, Roasted😂🤣) That bad boy would cook your family jewels at every stop light.
That’s good to hear! I literally just mailed me ecu out to get tuned this week. Im excited to see the difference.
How many miles on your bike?
I have about 22k miles on it. I bought it with around 17k miles in 2017. I put about 1000 miles on it street riding. The rest is all track miles. I gave up Street riding 6 months after buying it.
That’s impressive. Hopefully all of my issues are fixed now and I can just focus on riding like you have been.
Lol
Good day. Hope all is well. Ya the only problem I also have is the cold start. Al I did was install a 4mm sound wire from the positive on the battery to under the pilion seat. If it doesn't start within the first 3 maybe 4 tries I just pop of the seat and jump start it from a car battery. My bike has 77600km on the clock and I had no starter problems. Love my 2012...
Damn that’s impressive. I’ve never seen one with that many kms.
Thanks for the info
I've had mine now 6 months. Not managed to do many miles on it (about 250 miles), the weather in my part of the globe isn't that nice.
I ended up buying a Shorai Lithium battery. I run the charger on it every week or 2 just to keep it cycled. Mine fires up after the 3rd or 4th try. The battery cranks faster every try until it fires up. It never fires up 1st time but always fires up after a few goes. It's a bit of a pain, especially when I decide I'm going to take it to work and it's backfiring at 6:30am. The neighbours hate me.
In regard to the throttle map. A, B or STD. I find (A) makes the bike jolty. STD works fine for me, but I have a lot less experience on 1000s. The roads are quite bumpy which causes me to bump the throttle a tiny bit, but enough to accelerate when I wasn't ready for it.
With all that said, I enjoy it and will definitely keep it through this summer to see if I can learn. After being on 600's, 748's all my life, I had no idea how much faster a 1000 was.
Really appreciate the videos. You have been a lot of help to me since considering then buying my R1.
Sounds like you may have a weak starter like I did. I live in a cold climate as well and with my new starter it fires right up first try even when the weather is just above freezing
@@JT2JZ Thanks. I'll get it swapped out.
I always run a bit extra oil in mine.. I use pretty much all of a full gallon... At that sustained rpm you were getting some drain back issues, IE: its not draining back to the sump as fast as its pumping it thru the engine.. That extra bit helps..
Lots of extra weight in that front wheel, I have the 09 Rossi, and was horrified during a tyre change to feel the weight of the front. If you go past 80% throttle you'll know why. Also the front brakes are meant to be soft at first, helps with trail braking, then a good squeeze will always get the rear off the ground! Great bike though, highly recommend ❤
Yo tengo la misma y estoy teniendo problemas con las luces de los faros, básicamente NO SE ENCIENDEN , he revisado fusibles y cables etc etc. , toca llevar al mecánico
My 07 R1 never made it past 6k miles without knocking a valve guide loose. Repaired under warranty all 3 times, but I'd stay away from the 5 valve engines. Cause that unforgettable silverwear drawer hitting the floor is all I thought about over 10k rpm... and then it happened again... and once more. Which totally ruined the crossplain experiece for me, and for lack of my friends attempts at making me love it.
You have to overfill oil by about a quarter quart the vacuum pressure at high rpm causes oil to be pulled up leaving and absence of oil at the bottom. I've been overfilling for 5 years never had this problem again and I push it hard. This is common with all 2009 to 2014 models.
I’ll try that my next service. Thanks for sharing
Had an 09. And have a 14. Oil light still coming on all the time. I just ignore it at this point. Ive owned them since 2009. Never had to replace the starter and I live in Florida ride year round.
Have you ever tried heavyweight oil for the oil light?
Maybe the warm weather is easier on the starter. Up north my bike is always hard starting when it gets close to freezing and probably puts excessive strain on the starter I bet.
Awesome review !
I own an 2009 one in Black and Gold, drive it every single day, tomorrow on the way to work will hit 50.000 km , I had few times problems with the baterry but was fail to start only during winters when I usually startig it ones every 2 weeks from ( Dec - feb ) recharge the baterry and all good! no any other issues as you said consumable are on any bike and on this one you may burn the tyre faster and change a bit faster sprockets and chain but worth every single $ spent on it!
Question, does it makes a big difference between 2009 and 2013 one! thinking to go for a 2013 one because of the traction control and ABS ! whats your thoughts on this?
Thanks, Safe Ride!
The traction control does work well! No abs though. I just like it more due to the updated headlights / running lights.
don't just hold start until it starts.. if it doesn't start on the first go, stop, give it a few seconds (sometimes the fuel pump triggers again), then press start.
being stubborn and just holding start until it starts burns through your battery fast
The starting issues are almost always due to the starter relais, because they really like to corrode. It´s kinda amazing that this problem is common in so many generations of the R1...
So you should always take a look at that first when it starts to happen, before buying batteries and whatnot.
Most likely a new relais will fix it and you don´t need to switch anything else.
Mine was corroded for sure but it only fixed the issue for a few short months. The starter it’s self ended up being my main issue.
@@JT2JZ Well, even if it was only temporary in your unlucky case, it still work, right. 😉
My ´03 RN09 has started to act up this winter as well, but so far only at very low single digit temperatur on my weekly start ups for overwintering. I cleaned the contacts and sprayed a good chunk contact spray in it and so far hasn´t acted up again. Yamaha charges 190€ for a new relais over here which is completely ridiculous...
@@JT2JZ Since i just randomly clicked on your video again and re-discovered my post, here´s a little update: 😅
In April i had to replace my starting relais as well since it didn´t wanna start and threw an engine light at me. Found a nice used one from a local shop for 30€ i think,
replaced it and it solved the problem.
Hey great video. Did you check the valve clearances or do you have any concern about the valves being out of spec from the mileage? I just picked up a 2001 Honda f4i with 20k miles and a reputable shop told me not to worry about any clearance issues until I put more miles on it 🤷♂️
I have an older video where I checked valve clearance. All of mine were good. They last a long time. I wouldn’t be to worried
My best guess on the oil light is that the oil got too warm, which decreases the vicsocity, so this might have caused the pressure to drop enough to make the light come on
got a 2009 R1 w/ 45k no start. Got a new starter from Yamaha and a Anti-gravity ATZ-10 lithium ion battery (360cca) and it starts within half a crank every time since and its been 2 years
I had to do the same thing with my bike and has also been good ever since. Starters are common failure points unfortunately. More cranking amps the better!
@@JT2JZ Yea and if you dont ride everyday you gotta put the lithium ion on a trickle charger. When it's cold especially I bring the battery in makes starting a frozen bike easier. If it's really cold jump it off a car to not tear up the battery
Oil light sounds a bit same as the RB26DETT in R32 GT-R and this happens because oil drain holes are too small from head back to oil pan so high rpm tend to add all the oil in the head and then pump struggles to get any, result is drop in oil pressure and later engine failure. About the starter, when watching endurance races, almost all crossplane R1 struggle to start on start of the race and pit stops, so even factory teams have this problem, maybe when they get even more horsepowerfrom the engine, starting problem becomes worse ? Excellent review buddy
Ya seems like these bikes just have a few quirks that you have to live with! It’s a small price to pay for how much I enjoy riding it though
@@JT2JZ I have the same bike. Oil light comes on every so often. I have been told that these models dont have an oil pressure sensor, instead its an oil level sensor. Its never caused me any problems at all.
The oil issue is across all R1s. The manual says its because of quick acceleration then the oil light comes on. I have had the same issue as well
Thanks for the info.
This is the first R1 I’ve had that issue with.
I had a 2011 r1 laid it down in 2019 but to add to the oil light issue. Usually beating on it and keeping it in high rpms will cause the oil to get hot causing the light so when I went back to cruising or just letting the bike cool off light would go away on its own. But only was issue when I was racing for extended periods of time
2024 don't have a fuel gauge either. It has a pretty accurate fuel consumption gage. It does not like going slow, but 10k and beyond on a these is 120 mph outside of first gear. My stock 2023 will go 98mph red line first gear.
That’s crazy even brand new machines still don’t have a fuel gauge. Thanks for sharing
@@JT2JZ don't have a gauge but they have a consumption counter. I always fill up first thing. Then I know to watch my consumption, it is pretty damn accurate.
Hello
The lamp lights up when the engine revs too high, because the R1 is the only one of the thousands of bikes that has an oil level sensor and no oil pressure sensor, so when you ride the bike up, the oil comes up and down, you can see that. that it is not oil does not mean that you have no oil. The oil is there But at the moment the sensor doesn't recognize that the oil is down because there is no oil pressure sensor.
I often had the oil light on my R1 when I was driving fast.
With the best regards
That makes sense. Thanks for sharing
"Crotch rocket" and "Widowmaker" are favorite hilarious terms for litre bikes 😂
I had the same bike and everything you said is true, i now have a 2010 r6 .
I also have a 2009 R6 and it has been my most reliable bike to date. You shouldn’t have a single issue with that unit!
I've currently had my 2009 R1 for around 4 months now. Yes, this bike gets very hot. Yes, this bike weighs a lot more than other superbikes. But my god is this thing a monster. I've rode bikes both small and big, but never have I rode a bike as angry as my R1. As soon as you start this bike, it's all sorts of pissed off and just wants you to bang through those gears. It has its flaws, but I don't think I'll ever sell my R1
The R1 is king 👑
It’s the fastest bike I have ever owned. It’s still faster than my aprilia RSV4 by 0.4 seconds in the 1/4 mile ( and the aprilia has launch control, wheelie control and quick shifter! )
The manual says that 210cca is the minimum on battery so no wonder 160cca wouldnt do it, lithiums always take 30-40% more CCA to get it cranking really so youre right at stock battery levels of actual amps itll put out to starter. 360cca is the sweet spot on lithiums. Clutch slipper sucks on the 09-14s($70 easy fix) and 09s have the slapping cam chain tensioner issue(again not too hard to fix) and only SOME had starter issues, and yes they suck to BUMP start (NOT bomb start). and the brake pads are the issue on the bike....NOOT the brakes calipers/rotors
......Otherwise theyre so good anyone can ride em in B mode like a sv650 almost...yet even the best riders can beat the shit out of em in A mode fully leaned on a good tire and never worry about it not doing what they want.
Great video I am just about to buy a 2012 going from a light weight 954 fireblade so a different beast. I am missing both the sound and feel of V twin delivery and hoping this is a nice compromise between the way a 4 pot and twin deliver the power
It’s hard not to fall in love with the riding experience these Crossplane bikes offer. I’m sure you will enjoy it.
Pode comprar que não vai se arrepender. Comprei uma 2012 com 7000km, muito nova e não me arrependo. Também tenho uma RD350.
Use oem oil filter for oil light for starting issue fix your power commander tune
Starting issue ended up being a bad starter it’s self.
I've been riding 600cc bikes for the past 12 years. Never been on a 1000cc bike. Is there a huge difference power? The Crossplane R1 is my dream bike. =)
It’s a very large just up in power. Once you try one it’s pretty hard to go back. Very addicting!
Everyone says you need to learn on a small bike in order to be a good rider but I started out on a liter bike ZX10R and I out preform guys at the track who quote “started out on a 300/400”
I started out on a cbr1000rr as well and have no regrets. It’s definitely not a wise choice for most people but as long as you can respect the machine it’s totally doable.
Hey man beautiful machine! Not many ravens out there! The oil light thing is covered in the owner's manual and Yamaha says it's normal to see the oil level light under acceleration/deceleration or going fast. An ecu flash will allow you to start in A mode and cure touchy throttle and parking lot behavior even coolant temp management and the Graves clutch judder ring update solves launch issue. After making those changes to my own 12 R1 it's a completely different animal! Good luck!
Thanks for sharing. My ecu is literally getting flashed as we speak! Can’t wait to feel the difference!
I am worried about my clutch especially after the extra power from the tune. It was starting to slip on me if I banged 1-2 shift hard.
Do you think the graves clutch mod would add more clamping power and help with my clutch slip as well? It will likely be my next mod very soon.
@@JT2JZ very cool man the flash is worth it. Graves does offer heavier springs as well and they help the clutch engagement feel and response but I'm unsure if that's what your clutch needs. Mine feels like it hooks ok now after the updates. Maybe inspect your friction plates? Free to have a look at them, plus an OEM clutch is cheap and easy as well. The clutch cable could even just be out of adjustment too. The bag of bolts you hear rolling around in your case is the clutch basket springs and it's fine being loud AF! Normal Yamaha slipper. The engine does vibrate alot and can't be compared to the flatplane. It just shakes like a big block.
My clutch is likely worn with the higher kms the bike has so will probably do fibres at the same time.
Do you have a link to the judder ring and heavy springs you personally used?
@JT2JZ www.superbikeunlimited.com/
These guys are fantastic and they are who I bought all my graves parts from. I call them whenever I have a tuning question and always speak to a real person. Hopefully you have that clutch issue resolved soon my guy! Might end up making a new regret vid haha.
I just discovered the manual cam chain tensioner could be to blame for the oil level light illuminating under hard acceleration. Blocking off the oil feed to the stock tensioner will cause oil to back up in the valve train(cyl head) high rpm will make this more noticeable. Graves makes a fix for this issue while all others block it.
Under seat muffler super cool 😎
Agreed!
I wish the current models had that!
Even my 2004 has starter issues…I think it’s just an R1 thing at this point…no headlights is my least favourite one🙈
mileage? valve adjustment, starter, starter solenoid
All of my issues started just before 30,000kms
Hi mate nice video I had to replace starter motor on my 2009 R1 battery as well clutch noise as well and chain tensioner noise are common but it’s something different than any other bike
Even with all the issues it’s still my favourite bike that I have owned.
Yup, I will be buried with my 2011... also, new oem starter relay helped my starting issue. The beast needs some juice to wake it up
They are beasts that’s for sure!
Starter relay fixed my issue for a while but also had other underlining issues.
I've owned 3 of those 09,12 and 14. Interesting the issues you've had I've never experienced any of that? Overheating yes, fuel terrible but I could get 100 miles to a tank which is normal to me. Good vid
I still love the bike but maybe it’s just showing it’s age now with 32,000kms.
Did Any of your bikes have higher mileage?
@@JT2JZ one of them pushed over 30k, the other two were closer 20k. Also if you flash the ecu the engine mode will stay or it actually defaults to A mode, I had mine flashed on my 09 and fixed alot of the notchy feeling in the throttle as well. I miss that bike til this day🤣 it had full ohlins suspension, leo vince full exhaust system, brembo master cylinder, steel braided lines but I prefer the updated front end in 2012 plus.
I recently just flashed the r1 and r6 ecus and the tuner messed something up. Currently neither of my bikes run now, still trying to resolve the bad tune issue. Very disappointed so far but what can you do I guess.
I have this bike, love it except:
1. Virtually nonexistent engine braking
2. Aggressively angled seat pushes me into the tank.
3. Sharply angled clipons.
4. Starter motor replacement
5. High engine compression engine cold winter starts
Please check your oil pressure sensor
AWESOME VIDEO Do you have a power commander on your 2012 R1. If so will you please make a video about it. I own a 2014 R1 I'm thinking about putting one on mine. What do you think. Thanks
I do have a power commander 5.
That’s actually a great video idea. Thanks for the feedback. I will see if I can put a video together soon.
ua-cam.com/video/B3dIusv96dA/v-deo.html
Thanks again for the idea.
Check out the new video. If you have any other questions let me know and I will try and help!
Best looking bike ever made. The end.
100% agree. Best body style around
I have a 2013 and it’s a beast
Right. I absolutely love riding these bikes.
Go Newer For The Better Technology & Upgrades. The R1 Has Been Upgraded 7 Times Since 2012. R1 Is 1 Of The 2 Best.
I want to try a newer r1 soon but I do like the look of these older 2012 body styles better
Growing Pains With Most Mechanical Machines. However The Revisions Made & Issues Corrected The 2023 & 2024 Are The Best Refined To Ride. However To Each Their Own.
Good review man
Nice video mate!
There is a hole where a allen key goes under the passenger OEM seat but not the cowl.
I dont screw down my seat never had an issue with it moving or anything
I love the color !
Can never go wrong with an all blacked out unit 👌
My favourite combo as well
Gonna buy 2010 model this week and probably ill do the same
Nice find. You will enjoy it. These bikes are a riot to ride!
IF anything is legendary, it's the 2009 cross plane 😂😂😂
2019 r1 crossplane. I have been facing start problems too. It sounds like the battery is too small and does not have enough juice to start the motor, even of it is fully charged. When the bike is warm, the situation is even worse.
Sounds similar to my issues when my starter failed.
Good info, thank you!
Does yours naturally run hot around 210-220 Fahrenheit when riding.? i picked one up in yellow flame theme, ive replaced a couple of things including 360 amps Lithium ion.
Definitely gets up to 220 during slow speed in town riding.
Mine usually drops below 210 when riding a bit faster.
Keep in mind I don’t live in a very hot area though. Our nice summer days are usually 80F
@@JT2JZ yeah its 79F today, i hit 225F on the cluster, my previous bike S1000rr never hit those temperatures. could coolant change or coolant hose change fix the problem you think ?
@KelsS1k honestly it’s probably normal for these bikes. They do run a bit hotter than traditional flat plane engines. I doubt you will have any heat related issues.
Mine gets up to 235f or so if idling in traffic on a really hot day.
@@JT2JZ dang thats pretty hot, ive replaced 90% of the starting mechanisms, including main fuse 50A. She doesnt like starting lol
@KelsS1k ya they do run hot. After I got an ECU flash and tuned the fans to come on sooner it helped a lot.
My bike ended up being a weak starter it’s self. Check out my starter replacement video. I took it apart and all the internal components were jet black / crispy. My bike was 100% after that new starter.
Holy nitpicky batman!!! I'll start with the Allen wrench. Factory rear seat has the Allen wrench. Starting the bike. Turn key on roll it over for a few seconds. Turn key off and back on and it will fire right up.. dunno why but both of my xplanes are that way. And it's not a power mode. Std/ A/B are relative to the speed the throttle blades open vs throttle input. Be nice if you knew more about your own bike before you start making a complaint video about it.
I have had many R1’s and the last was a 05 I loved it but damn my testicals were on FIRE city riding. I had a fuel light that kicked on reserve light or the oh shit light lol. Does this one have the low fuel light or nothing at all and you just flat out run out? I am looking at getting one but if it has nothing not even a light that will suck. All my other R1’s had a light not an actual gauge.
No actual gauge just a low fuel light. Better than nothing but barely.
The oil sign on high rpm is when your bike is still to cold and your sensor gives an error (thats what happend to me) i had this Just one time.. becouse the bike is build for high rpm.
Enjoy the bike bro
I’ve only had it happen one time as well. The bike was definitely hot, it was after a few hours of run time on the highway.
If it happened more frequently I would consider changing oil weight, possibly something thicker. I’ve never had it happen again though.
Still love the bike that’s for sure!
the oil light comes on due to the unfortunate location of the sensor in the crankcase, foam rises at high speeds and the sensor thinks that the oil level has dropped and this is absolutely normal, try using a viscosity of 10w60 helped me
Thanks for the info.
So more or less nothing to worry about then as long as your oil level is actually full.
@@JT2JZ ye man forgive me for my bad English,
I hope you get the gist. p.s. love in Russia
Your English is perfect 👌
Cheers
Nope. The origin of all your issues shows up at the 5:54 mark of this video. That Power Commander. I owned an ‘09 R1 from AUG 2013 to SEP 2017 and I put close to 42K on it and never experienced hard starting or battery issues with it (even with living in PA). The biggest mechanical issue I had was with the Power Commander installed by the previous owner. The bike would shut off for no apparent reason if the outdoor temperature went above 92°. Once I pulled out the P/C, had the ECU flashed by Superbike Unlimited, it dyno’d at 167HP to the wheel and never gave me another issue.
i can prove this bike can go 120k miles. i have service 1 from a customer not long ago. and still runs strong.
That’s awesome to hear. Good maintenance goes a long way.
I have an 09 r1 and Omg trying to start it gives me anxiety now. For 2 months it started like a normal bike but now she just cranks and cranks till I have to bump start it 😢
If you can afford a new starter relay for the battery, I highly recommend doing this, as it solves the start issue in 99% cases.
I definitely know the feeling!
Check out my other video where I changed my starter relay. It’s pretty cheap and an easy thing to try.
You may have to save up for a starter eventually though.
The starter problem and no abs are a deal breaker for me. I think i need to stick to CBRs and Zx10r.
The starter is the worst of it for sure. No abs I enjoyed when stunting
@@JT2JZ planning to buy one with 24k km on it. is the starter problem really unavoidable to all units?
@GameMasterAddict235 that’s pretty much exactly when my bike started having issues. Would randomly not start when my bike hit 25000kms. At maybe 27000kms my starter failed completely and left me stranded. Very common on most of these bikes unfortunately
i had same oil isue every time i was going hard on a throtle for a longer period, but since i started using 15/50 or 20/50 yamalube, i dont have that oil isue anymore ,i can keep it oh high rpm whole day
I’m glad my bike isn’t the only one with that issue.
Thanks for the info!
What is the seat height?
Ill admit I chuckled when you said a new ignition with a key would be a couple grand a new ignition with a key is $94 bucks bruh OEM
If you still have the red master key maybe. Can’t program any new keys without it.
Loose the red key and have to buy a new ignition with a new red key for programming. Labour for Dealership programming is more than $94 alone even if you already supplied all your own parts.
Sounds like you have never lost your keys before lol. I have and I promise you it suckkkssss.
what is "bomb start " ?
Push start or bump start
Hi I'm having that same problem with my bike, the long crank, recently I started it up but I gave it a few revs and it died. Can you list the battery you have in your bike? Like brand and model, and what website u got from. Thanks would be a big help. -2012 r1
Is a LITHIUM Ion Battery Worth The Money? Yamaha R1 Crossplane Review
ua-cam.com/video/wfJ1P2JdDhw/v-deo.html
I believe I have a link in the description of this video. Pretty much any lithium ion batter 280cca or bigger will work well.
My specific battery was an off brand one from a small local shop that would likely be hard to find.
I use the Antigravity ATZ 10 battery lithium ion, it's close to $300, it works great
The antigravity is probably the best lithium battery on the market at the moment
need dyni stend man because in the American version, the throttle closes 22% at high rpm
I’m not a huge fan of my current power command. I definitely want to get a real ecu flash / tune. There is definitely a lot more on the table!