Cool Tools: Dewalt 5 Tool Combo Kit: amzn.to/2SdWfXB Dewalt 1/2" Impact 20V High Torque: amzn.to/2EH4PuR Impact Sockets (Neiko): amzn.to/2V2HZ5Z This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Dude you’re the man. I went the lazy way and just sprayed degreaser all over those grounds, I let a sit for a bit and fixed the problem. Never came back. This is my second week and just wanted to thank you. I liked and subscribed lol Keep doing what you doing. Saving a lot of people money especially in times like these.
So far this has worked for my 99' chevy Silverado thanks for your video and advice both light abs/brake were on after bout 5 min of driving and would stay on delt w for 2yrs and shop was wanting to charge appox $500 for brake module job...it been two days with NO lights on thanks again!!!
@@Professional_ProCraftinator Still haven’t fixed it. I think the ground is ok. Wonder if speed sensor might need replacing? Mostly commute with my Civic so haven’t never got back to solving it.
My dad has been having this problem for almost 4 years now on his pick up. Dealer wanted to charge him over 1500 to fix it. But now I can’t wait to go my dads house and finally try this!!! Thank you!
WOW! Dude you the man. You just saved me from replacing a wheel speed sensor I didn't need. Last time it was corroded wire on the passenger side speed sensor, but I didn't remember the brake light flashing, so I hoped on youtube, and up popped your video first, then I watched a few other videos that talked about taking apart the ABS module and I was like that first video was so easy (yours), lets start there. 45 minutes later and here I am problem solved. THANK YOU!
When you said "lit up like a Christmas tree" I had deja vu to 6 hours ago when I bought my 04 chevy van and drove it home. Lights on and off the whole way with dinging and all. I hope this simple ground cleaning fixes my problems because that would be amazing!
Yes and no. Cleaning the grounds fixed some lights. Adding soldered in wire grounds right at the ABS module by the frame fixed all but 1 code. The last code is U1000 and I'm stuck on that one. Already tried 2 new abs modules with no luck.
This is why I love this channel, you couldn’t have posted this at a better time. My Monte Carlo is having similar issues even after I replaced the front hubs. Keep up the great work!
Definitely worth a try. Even GM thought so since they published a TSB on this (although I think it was only the front ground location but I could be wrong). However I've probably replaced 57 brake modules and that fixed it everytime. Mostly it's a cracked solder joint in the EBCM (brake module which attaches via four torx screws to the brake modulator assembly). They come blank and have to be programmed at the dealer for it to be done correctly. Keep us posted man! I'd love to know that cleaning the grounds worked for even one person out there! Free repairs are the best!
Changed that many which means you’re probably a mechanic… stop being a mechanic and become a technician. You can program them yourself and furthermore you don’t need to program… you gave yourself the solution… they’re had solder joints… re solder them. Dealerships aren’t needed for anything anymore. He module is already considered bad. You’re not going to learn anything until you practice. Open it up and try your hand at repairing it. There’s far more money in the trade once you learn this. I teach my guys that everything is fixable. That if it has to be sent off for someone else to fix this means you can fix it yourself. The people that fix ajd refurbish these sorts of units aren’t super human and anything done by them can be done by YOU!
Good problem solving video, will give it a try. A suggestion would be to smear a little dielectric grease on the ground points after you tighten them which might keep the moisture from corroding them again...
Same with mine. First it was the abs light. Went to work on my shaft. Then the break light came up too. And the fluid level is ok. Mine is a Honda civic 2006. Please help
Hey Thank you .. haven’t tried yet but if you work on your own vehicles and enjoy the challenge of keeping 200+ milers on the road lights on the dash can drive you crazy Thanks for the video Bless you and your family
I have a 2001 Silverado, cleaned the front but didn't know about the other two. Can't wait to try it. Of course all the passengers like to point those out to you as if you don't know about it. Thanks in advance, my brakes are fine and I'm sure this should do it. If it doesn't work, I'm gonna break out the black tape to cover them up. lol
There’s 3 others that you should look at as well. The first is between the hood and the firewall. The second is between the firewall and behind the engine block between the firewall and the engine block. There’s actually two in this location one goes with a braided line at the same firewall location that the hood line attaches to. The other is a small single line on the passenger side between the firewall and the rear engine block. That particular one is very hard to undo the bolt. I ended up cutting it as low as I could and re-running the ground to the first firewall attachment point. So between those six grounds I think of that covers most of them
After cleaning and before rebolting apply bulb grease or even lube grease. This will slow the corrosion so it takes longer for the ground to go bad again. Another good idea would be to move the ground somewhere else where it does not get splashed.
I try everything on YT and nothing works and I had the same problem my abs / brake light came on , I replaced ebcm 2 different ones from eBay and the trac light wouldn’t turn off so I found a place to fix my original ebcm and no more lights or trac light on I have a 03 Yukon cost me $125 to fix
Hey bud these are the grounds I was talking about when you mentioned having to tear out the axle in dads truck because it was staying locked into 4x4. If you have not done that axle fix yet I would try this first. I seen that one guy actually moved all these grounds up on the fire wall under the hood to protect them a little better.
True his axle could need major repair but I always try the simple things first. Learned that from experience lol I put a lot of time into repairs and found out it was a ground or something.
The 2nd set of grounds you showed, I cleaned up on my truck, and it stopped the Service 4WD Message I was getting in the DIC. So the transfercase/4wd encoder motor may be that 2nd ground wire there.
Have you ever had to replace the heater core inlet adapter on your fathers Duramax? I read it was a common coolant leak spot and soon after I did a pressure test and mine was leaking. A simple fix but a bear getting old one off even with fuel disconnect tools.
I Romped on My 2000 Yukon XL to make a Quick Get - Away Procedure ... For a Fast and Furious Few Blocks.... Then the Red " Engine Overheated " Light Came on, Which I had Never Seen Before, or Knew there was one, Also The OBD Code Was Checked, Found Out that the Computer Takes Over to Assist the Throttle Body / Gas Flow ... To Help Save The Engine.... Steam came Out From Under the Hood, The Engine Had No More Power ... I lifted the Hood, Saw that the Cheap Rotted Tan Nylon Adapter / Fitting attached to the Heater Core Outlet was Broke Off --- with the Heater Hose Laying Down Beside the Pass . engine. The Broken Nozzle was Still clamped in the End of the Hose. I was Stranded... Until, I found an aluminum bar close to 5/8" Dia. , Onboard. I Removed the Second Heater Hose, Pushed the Bar into both Hoses and Re- Clamped Both. Had to put back about 4- Gallons of Water... In the Reservoir Tank.... Since there is No Radiator Cap....that I Know Of, Hoping I did Not Harm this Wonderful Used 5.3 L motor. Drove to AutoZone , Did Not Know if I was Going to need a Dealer Only Adapter Nozzle.... But a Knowledgeable Parts Man Took Me to the " Help " Parts Section , Showed Me the PKG. For " GM " , it had the Squeeze Release/ Snap Lock... Like a Snake Bites... It was Hard to pry off the Broken Nozzle, I kind of Chewed it off with a Big Pair of Water Pump Pliers , That I was Blessed to Have onboard.... At the Time , Not Many More Tools than That , on Board.... It was a Pathetic Experience... Exasperating. But All Turned Out Well, Back to Normal , and No Leaks , The Heater Functions Fine, the Engine Has Power.... ( I really Would Suggest Buying / Carrying a 5/8 " Straight Tube Barbed connector, with 2- Clamps , on board.... Just to Quick Fix Such a Problem, if at Least , Temporarily...!! The Engineering / Mounting of Such Cheap , Weak Plastic Nozzles/ Adapters for a Hot Water - Pressurized System is Absurd...!! This Should have Never Been Designed this Way.... Or Used in the Coolant- Heater System , in the First Place.... That Nozzle was Rotted / Weak , And Simply Exploded Apart under High Pressure Conditions. I Had Nice Buick Le Sabre do A Very Similar Situation... While Traveling Down the Freeway, Going to Work... Unknowingly -- a Cheap / Plastic Fitting Exploded near the Top of the Engine , ( it may have been a " Y " fitting , or straight Tube... Exploded ... By the time I took the Next Exit.... The engine was Destroyed. AAA towed it to my Mechanic... Cost Me $1500. To Replace the Motor. The Mechanic Stated " This would have Never Happened.... If the Fitting was Metal , Most People usually Switch it Out to Metal ... For Just a few Dollars....". To Prevent this from Happening ". I hope this Dissertation Helps Somebody --- Before it Happens ... To Them. It's a Damn Shame to think of all of that Wasted , Good Machinery , and Money Squandered... Due to Cost Cutting Manufacturing. And Poor Design , incorporating eventual Failure. I Rest My Case. BillinL.A. 4-22-2022.
Nice, simple, to the point video. I'm not sure if this is the reason my brake and ABS lights are on (they came on randomly while driving in the storm, but no apparent brake issues), but I'll give it a try on my '97 Ford Econoline.
Thank you!!! I have been dealing with this on my duramax since the end of summer. Mine seems to have the exact same symptoms you described, so I will definitely give this a try and report back.
@@dianneanderson731 They always Say They're Going to Report Back....Give an Update.... Yada, Yada, Yada.... And Never Do.... I'm Not Holding My BREATH.... BillinL.A. 11-05-2021.
IF it turns out to be your EBCM, there is a place on Ebay from MESA Az that will replace/exchange/ rebuild your EBCM for about $70 with shipping ! That was like 5 years ago so naturally I'm sure the price went up. Still beats paying $750 for a new one. Best of luck. They did a GREAT job on mine.
@@jonathangrinnell2932 both abs and brake light. It came back on though. I even replace abs sensor and it came back on. I'm going to send it to the shop and see if I can have them reset it or something to it.
Did this affect your cruise control also? My brake lights came on and at the same time notice my cruise didn’t work. Stayed like that for a couple months. Then they went off by their own and the cruise worked. Did this several times and now everything hasn’t worked in months. Will try this tomorrow
That's a beautiful truck brother, I would suggest cleaning up that frame and sealing it up to stop the cancer, but I see you live in the great north! Lol I'm originally from Wisconsin so I know what the problem is.
Are the light still off since posting this. My abs has been going off and on . And sometimes the parking light I will go stretches where the abs will be off then go on after driving a while. But must times it’s on right away and stats on , suck a pain in the ass
Great video as always Mossman ! I’m hoping this is the answer for two of my vehicles. I have a 99’ Chevy Silverado and a 05’ GMC Yukon XL both of which have these same idiot lights, lit up.
I was having a problem with my ABS and BRAKE light being on. However, as I was trying to find a scanner to read my ABS system, I decided to, on impulse, use contact cleaner to spray down all the plugs and sockets connected with the brakes. Well, on ignition, my BRAKE light is still on. However, my ABS light eventually goes out after a few seconds. So, I assume that that fixed at least part of the problem.
will try it tmrw got the abs and brake light on and tpms but it goes away on a 04 cadillac escalade esv also one more question if i drive my cadillac escalade normally not speeding soft on the gas it shifts okay 1 to 2 to3 gear but if i wanna go quickly in the traffic light i goes fine 1 but ceeps 2 to 3 gear all the way till 4000 to 5600 RPM once i let go of the gas pedall it shifts huh?
I currently have this as a problem. But they don't come on intermittent they came on after I had just finished doing the brakes I was thinking it was a bad and sensor. I'll look for the grounds on the frame. Thanks.
Fixed the ABS light in my S10 today while pulling the dash apart for another reason. I removed the bulb. Seriously, though, with a Moser 9 inch axle in the rear, there's no way I'll ever have ABS again in that truck, so the light was just annoying.
Does your abs and brake light come on together all the time when you had this problem ? My 02 blazer the abs light and brakes come on once in awhile I turn the car off and turn it back on and it goes away
I found that the brake pedal gets a little stuck yu have to pull on the release and at the same time pull up on the brake pedal with yur hand and that would remove the brake light will go away and I don't know about the abs light
Hi Mossman, I will try this today, same symptoms, I replaced both wheel speed sensors (2002 Sub 1500 - front only) with no result, lights still come on, will post back if it's a fix, thanks! Froggy's Garage :)
Froggy - did you clean the grounds and did it solve your problem? I’m glad you said the wheel speed sensors may not be an issue I don’t wanna spend money on those unless I know they’re bad. I cleaned all my grounds and even re-ran some. What appears to have gone off for good but I think it came on momentarily at one point but I’m not sure
my 04 just start having the Brake & ABS light come on with the dash dinning then the battery light flashes, never had any issues in 6 months till today. All the grounds have already been cleaned couple months ago. Check engine light stays on even tho I fixed the code but won't turn off.
If you don't have this exact truck, then you have to crawl around under yours and look. There should be grounds on your frame. I would suggest cleaning all you can find. It sure won't hurt anything having good clean grounds.
You need your gauges rebuilt. That is a common problem on these trucks. I believe the circuit board has solder joints that are broken. That is why your indicator is gone. It probably started turning off and on then finally went dead.
I owe you a cold one. This fixed my brake light issue and my service 4wd issue. Now my dash is almost completely clear. Last thing is my air bag light. Any suggestions?
It could be the sensor on the front of the truck. I have heard the plug can get corroded. I would unplug it clean it with electrical cleaner. Put some dielectric grease in the plug and see if that works. If not it's probably the sensor itself is bad. When you mess with airbag stuff I would unhook the battery and wait 10 minutes before touching it.
No they will tell you it's a bad viscous coupler in your transfer case making that noise and try to charge you $2300 to fix it, after you asked them to scan ABS cuz you think ABS pump is doing something funky but the ABS light isn't coming on at all but you just have a feeling that's what it is, so you end up taking their word on it cuz you have no experience with AWD vehicles and they swear that's the problem they've seen it a million times it's the exact sound, so you spend $400 and an entire Saturday swapping the viscous coupler just for the sound to still be there and it turns out these people never even scanned ABS. Ask me how I know.
Get under your truck and actually look at your frame. I am giving you info. I can't do the work for you. Different models will have the grounds in different spots. Look around and you will find them.
My truck is doing the exact same thing. It doesn't come on right away it take a couple minutes then they both come on and it dings a bunch. I bet this is it thanks.
I'm having the same problem with my 2003 chevy s10 4x4. Where would the ground wire be located at on my truck? I found one behind my driver side headlight. Cleaned it but no go. Thanks in advance.
Not really sure about an s10. I would guess it wouldn't be far from the abs module. I believe it is in the engine bay of an s10 so i would look around it. Maybe the frame below it.
Nice and to the point.. I try to clean up the grounds on most of my stuff here and there as I'm working on it or around it. It's a definitely a good thing to get in the habit of doing. Glad it helped out with the issue!
Can a bad abs sensor make the break light turn on? Asking for Honda civic 2006. Cause my abs and break lights are all on. And the break fluid level is ok. Pls help
Your truck is much newer than mine (have 1990 sport truck). My park brake light stays on and or blinks when foot pedal is on/off. So now that I see others with similar grief I am going to look for bad grounds. I did take it to a brake shop and mechanically I am good. So in the mean time that candy bar is hiding that damn red light !!
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This video contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and buy, I'll receive a small commission.
Will this help with the service brake booster??
Dude you’re the man. I went the lazy way and just sprayed degreaser all over those grounds, I let a sit for a bit and fixed the problem. Never came back. This is my second week and just wanted to thank you. I liked and subscribed lol Keep doing what you doing. Saving a lot of people money especially in times like these.
Which degreaser? I really need to clean mine as well mine has 290,000 miles
So far this has worked for my 99' chevy Silverado thanks for your video and advice both light abs/brake were on after bout 5 min of driving and would stay on delt w for 2yrs and shop was wanting to charge appox $500 for brake module job...it been two days with NO lights on thanks again!!!
did your lights turn off
Think this is the issue with my 99 Sierra. The lights turn on and off randomly. I would do this before a module job definitely.
@@MrHuck was the on and off caused by a loose ground?
@@Professional_ProCraftinator Still haven’t fixed it. I think the ground is ok. Wonder if speed sensor might need replacing? Mostly commute with my Civic so haven’t never got back to solving it.
My dad has been having this problem for almost 4 years now on his pick up. Dealer wanted to charge him over 1500 to fix it. But now I can’t wait to go my dads house and finally try this!!! Thank you!
This works sometimes. I tried it on my mom's Tahoe with no luck.
They are charging me 1,600 and all they gonna do is clean those cables
WOW! Dude you the man. You just saved me from replacing a wheel speed sensor I didn't need. Last time it was corroded wire on the passenger side speed sensor, but I didn't remember the brake light flashing, so I hoped on youtube, and up popped your video first, then I watched a few other videos that talked about taking apart the ABS module and I was like that first video was so easy (yours), lets start there. 45 minutes later and here I am problem solved. THANK YOU!
Thanks for the help had the same exact problem and that fixed mine
Thank you. I had the same problem on my 2001 Chev Silverado. Front bolt connections were rusty. Cleaned them up and both alarms cleared.
When you said "lit up like a Christmas tree" I had deja vu to 6 hours ago when I bought my 04 chevy van and drove it home. Lights on and off the whole way with dinging and all. I hope this simple ground cleaning fixes my problems because that would be amazing!
have any luck with it?
Yes and no. Cleaning the grounds fixed some lights. Adding soldered in wire grounds right at the ABS module by the frame fixed all but 1 code. The last code is U1000 and I'm stuck on that one. Already tried 2 new abs modules with no luck.
Mossman, you always come through in times of need. Thanks for this old one!
This is why I love this channel, you couldn’t have posted this at a better time. My Monte Carlo is having similar issues even after I replaced the front hubs. Keep up the great work!
Did it work? I think this might be what's wrong with my Monte Carlo.
0:15 The dog was like what whos there Oh the truck
Definitely worth a try. Even GM thought so since they published a TSB on this (although I think it was only the front ground location but I could be wrong). However I've probably replaced 57 brake modules and that fixed it everytime. Mostly it's a cracked solder joint in the EBCM (brake module which attaches via four torx screws to the brake modulator assembly). They come blank and have to be programmed at the dealer for it to be done correctly. Keep us posted man! I'd love to know that cleaning the grounds worked for even one person out there! Free repairs are the best!
Changed that many which means you’re probably a mechanic… stop being a mechanic and become a technician. You can program them yourself and furthermore you don’t need to program… you gave yourself the solution… they’re had solder joints… re solder them. Dealerships aren’t needed for anything anymore. He module is already considered bad. You’re not going to learn anything until you practice. Open it up and try your hand at repairing it. There’s far more money in the trade once you learn this. I teach my guys that everything is fixable. That if it has to be sent off for someone else to fix this means you can fix it yourself. The people that fix ajd refurbish these sorts of units aren’t super human and anything done by them can be done by YOU!
Good problem solving video, will give it a try. A suggestion would be to smear a little dielectric grease on the ground points after you tighten them which might keep the moisture from corroding them again...
Thanks. I had the same problem. The lights’d come on every now and then and I didn’t know why.
Thank you sir. This problem has been haunting me for 3 years. Hope this is my fix!
What car? I think I have the same my abs and brake light is on
Going to try this rn on my 01 Chevy Tahoe will give you feedback
Same with mine. First it was the abs light. Went to work on my shaft. Then the break light came up too. And the fluid level is ok. Mine is a Honda civic 2006. Please help
WOW !! Excellent video BRO !! you just made my day , congrats !! and thanks so much for your time and effort !!
Thinking about doing it too
Hey Thank you .. haven’t tried yet but if you work on your own vehicles and enjoy the challenge of keeping 200+ milers on the road lights on the dash can drive you crazy
Thanks for the video
Bless you and your family
Be sure to check the crimp connection of the grounds. I found a bad crimp on my truck.
Awesome... You just helped me fix my 3-year issue...
Glad I could help.
@@mossman381 Now for the dang knock sensor code that keeps showing up in the OBD2 reporting... :)
I have a 2001 Silverado, cleaned the front but didn't know about the other two. Can't wait to try it. Of course all the passengers like to point those out to you as if you don't know about it. Thanks in advance, my brakes are fine and I'm sure this should do it. If it doesn't work, I'm gonna break out the black tape to cover them up. lol
There’s 3 others that you should look at as well. The first is between the hood and the firewall. The second is between the firewall and behind the engine block between the firewall and the engine block. There’s actually two in this location one goes with a braided line at the same firewall location that the hood line attaches to. The other is a small single line on the passenger side between the firewall and the rear engine block. That particular one is very hard to undo the bolt. I ended up cutting it as low as I could and re-running the ground to the first firewall attachment point. So between those six grounds I think of that covers most of them
@001 Gmc Duramax diesel sierra, same issues. Cleaned the area and ground. Reattached. Bingo! Problem resolved. Thank you.
Thank you so much, i had the same problem but after watching your video my problem was solved.
Thanks, fixed my suburban brake abs light issue. Drivers side body mount is the location, right behind the front tire
After cleaning and before rebolting apply bulb grease or even lube grease. This will slow the corrosion so it takes longer for the ground to go bad again. Another good idea would be to move the ground somewhere else where it does not get splashed.
OMG!!! YOU ARE HEAVEN SENT !! Same issue with 02 Chevy Silverado prob fixed in mins 😘😘😘
I try everything on YT and nothing works and I had the same problem my abs / brake light came on , I replaced ebcm 2 different ones from eBay and the trac light wouldn’t turn off so I found a place to fix my original ebcm and no more lights or trac light on I have a 03 Yukon cost me $125 to fix
bad grounds cause all kinds of problems. It's a bit crusty there ;) Glad it fixed it!
Great video, thank you for taking the time to make this, helped me on my 04 2500hd!
Hey bud these are the grounds I was talking about when you mentioned having to tear out the axle in dads truck because it was staying locked into 4x4. If you have not done that axle fix yet I would try this first. I seen that one guy actually moved all these grounds up on the fire wall under the hood to protect them a little better.
I am pretty sure dads axle has more issues than grounds but it's a good idea to clean them when you are working around them.
True his axle could need major repair but I always try the simple things first. Learned that from experience lol I put a lot of time into repairs and found out it was a ground or something.
I have had the same issue. I will try this first. Thank you
The 2nd set of grounds you showed, I cleaned up on my truck, and it stopped the Service 4WD Message I was getting in the DIC. So the transfercase/4wd encoder motor may be that 2nd ground wire there.
Interesting :)
Man thank you good sir I was about to go start buying sensors
Have you ever had to replace the heater core inlet adapter on your fathers Duramax? I read it was a common coolant leak spot and soon after I did a pressure test and mine was leaking. A simple fix but a bear getting old one off even with fuel disconnect tools.
Yup, fixed a few of those.
I Romped on My 2000 Yukon XL to make a Quick Get - Away Procedure ... For a Fast and Furious Few Blocks.... Then the Red " Engine Overheated " Light Came on, Which I had Never Seen Before, or Knew there was one, Also The OBD Code Was Checked, Found Out that the Computer Takes Over to Assist the Throttle Body / Gas Flow ...
To Help Save The Engine....
Steam came Out From Under the Hood, The Engine Had No More Power ... I lifted the Hood, Saw that the Cheap Rotted Tan Nylon Adapter / Fitting attached to the Heater Core Outlet was Broke Off --- with the Heater Hose Laying Down Beside the Pass . engine. The Broken Nozzle was Still clamped in the End of the Hose. I was Stranded... Until, I found an aluminum bar close to 5/8" Dia. , Onboard. I Removed the Second Heater Hose, Pushed the Bar into both Hoses and Re- Clamped Both. Had to put back about 4- Gallons of Water... In the Reservoir Tank.... Since there is No Radiator Cap....that I Know Of, Hoping I did Not Harm this Wonderful Used 5.3 L motor.
Drove to AutoZone , Did Not Know if I was Going to need a Dealer Only Adapter Nozzle.... But a Knowledgeable Parts Man Took Me to the " Help " Parts Section , Showed Me the PKG. For " GM " , it had the Squeeze Release/ Snap Lock... Like a Snake Bites...
It was Hard to pry off the Broken Nozzle, I kind of Chewed it off with a Big Pair of Water Pump Pliers , That I was Blessed to Have onboard.... At the Time , Not Many More Tools than That , on Board.... It was a Pathetic Experience... Exasperating. But All Turned Out Well, Back to Normal , and No Leaks , The Heater Functions Fine, the Engine Has Power.... ( I really Would Suggest Buying / Carrying a 5/8 " Straight Tube Barbed connector, with 2- Clamps , on board.... Just to Quick Fix Such a Problem, if at Least , Temporarily...!!
The Engineering / Mounting of Such Cheap , Weak Plastic Nozzles/ Adapters for a Hot Water - Pressurized System is Absurd...!! This Should have Never Been Designed this Way.... Or Used in the Coolant- Heater System , in the First Place.... That Nozzle was Rotted / Weak ,
And Simply Exploded Apart under High Pressure Conditions. I Had Nice Buick Le Sabre do A Very Similar Situation... While Traveling Down the Freeway, Going to Work... Unknowingly -- a Cheap / Plastic Fitting Exploded near the Top of the Engine , ( it may have been a " Y " fitting , or straight Tube... Exploded ...
By the time I took the Next Exit.... The engine was Destroyed. AAA towed it to my Mechanic... Cost Me $1500. To Replace the Motor. The Mechanic Stated
" This would have Never Happened.... If the Fitting was Metal , Most People usually Switch it Out to Metal ... For Just a few Dollars....". To Prevent this from Happening ". I hope this Dissertation Helps Somebody --- Before it Happens ... To Them.
It's a Damn Shame to think of all of that Wasted ,
Good Machinery , and Money Squandered... Due to Cost Cutting Manufacturing.
And Poor Design , incorporating eventual Failure. I Rest My Case.
BillinL.A. 4-22-2022.
Nice, simple, to the point video. I'm not sure if this is the reason my brake and ABS lights are on (they came on randomly while driving in the storm, but no apparent brake issues), but I'll give it a try on my '97 Ford Econoline.
2024... Fingers crossed. Abs was locking, now after cleaning grounds lights went away, now hopingbit doesn't lock again!
Gonna try this this weekend!! I have same “symptoms “ my brakes work good. Fingers crossed!!!!
Thank you for the video it saved me money and a headache 👍
Good to know. My 02 only has 130000 miles on it so I'm good to go for years with the miles you have on your👍
Thank you!!! I have been dealing with this on my duramax since the end of summer. Mine seems to have the exact same symptoms you described, so I will definitely give this a try and report back.
Is it fix now, Brandon?
@@dianneanderson731 They always Say They're Going to Report Back....Give an Update.... Yada, Yada, Yada.... And Never Do....
I'm Not Holding My BREATH.... BillinL.A.
11-05-2021.
Still waiting on that report back 😭😭😭😭
IF it turns out to be your EBCM, there is a place on Ebay from MESA Az that will replace/exchange/ rebuild your EBCM for about $70 with shipping ! That was like 5 years ago so naturally I'm sure the price went up. Still beats paying $750 for a new one. Best of luck. They did a GREAT job on mine.
I found the 10mm bolt, but where are the 2 13mm?
What did you use to clean the grounds?
Use whatever it takes to get to bare metal.
Where are they located again?
Thank you so much it worked for my 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L
Which light was u getting i have a 03 thats saying service brake booster but brakes work fine
@@jonathangrinnell2932 both abs and brake light. It came back on though. I even replace abs sensor and it came back on. I'm going to send it to the shop and see if I can have them reset it or something to it.
Did this affect your cruise control also? My brake lights came on and at the same time notice my cruise didn’t work. Stayed like that for a couple months. Then they went off by their own and the cruise worked. Did this several times and now everything hasn’t worked in months. Will try this tomorrow
That's a beautiful truck brother, I would suggest cleaning up that frame and sealing it up to stop the cancer, but I see you live in the great north! Lol I'm originally from Wisconsin so I know what the problem is.
My 3500 sierra is doing this ill clean the grounds and try that thanks for the tip
How do you clean it?
Did you disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing this work?
Nope, I showed everything I did.
I've been having the same problem on my 02 Tahoe gonna try this and see if it helps.
Please let me know if this fixed your problem cause I'm having the same issue.
Are the light still off since posting this.
My abs has been going off and on . And sometimes the parking light
I will go stretches where the abs will be off then go on after driving a while. But must times it’s on right away and stats on , suck a pain in the ass
They are still off. Mine were pretty random.
Man i can tell you either live up north or at Holly Beach
Great video as always Mossman ! I’m hoping this is the answer for two of my vehicles. I have a 99’ Chevy Silverado and a 05’ GMC Yukon XL both of which have these same idiot lights, lit up.
Did it work? And what did you use to clean the bolts? Thanks I’m advance
The brakes lock up in the front, would it be the ABS module, and ABS/brake light comes on as well, do i need to change ABS module
When wheels lock up that is usually the wheel speed sensor.
Ty for this video...can you tell me exactly where the second ones were though?
They’re attached to the frame right behind the drivers wheel
I was having a problem with my ABS and BRAKE light being on. However, as I was trying to find a scanner to read my ABS system, I decided to, on impulse, use contact cleaner to spray down all the plugs and sockets connected with the brakes. Well, on ignition, my BRAKE light is still on. However, my ABS light eventually goes out after a few seconds. So, I assume that that fixed at least part of the problem.
will try it tmrw got the abs and brake light on and tpms but it goes away on a 04 cadillac escalade esv also one more question if i drive my cadillac escalade normally not speeding soft on the gas it shifts okay 1 to 2 to3 gear but if i wanna go quickly in the traffic light i goes fine 1 but ceeps 2 to 3 gear all the way till 4000 to 5600 RPM once i let go of the gas pedall it shifts huh?
Not sure. It's pretty hard to diagnose a problem without seeing it in person.
I currently have this as a problem. But they don't come on intermittent they came on after I had just finished doing the brakes I was thinking it was a bad and sensor.
I'll look for the grounds on the frame.
Thanks.
Mine did the same. Coming on after doing a brake job.
Awesome video
Fixed the ABS light in my S10 today while pulling the dash apart for another reason. I removed the bulb. Seriously, though, with a Moser 9 inch axle in the rear, there's no way I'll ever have ABS again in that truck, so the light was just annoying.
I would call that a mod not a fix :)
.....but it was free! Also removed the stupid shift light. I don’t need that! I can see the tach.
I remember those shift lights. They always want you to shift pretty early I thought. I liked to get a bit more rpms before I shifted.
Yeah, like they wanted super fuel efficiency or something.
Was this a permanent fix?
Does your abs and brake light come on together all the time when you had this problem ? My 02 blazer the abs light and brakes come on once in awhile I turn the car off and turn it back on and it goes away
Yes, they come on together. They were never on separately. They would just randomly turn on while going down the road.
I found that the brake pedal gets a little stuck yu have to pull on the release and at the same time pull up on the brake pedal with yur hand and that would remove the brake light will go away and I don't know about the abs light
The e brake pedal pull up with hand while you release parking brake
Are the grounds in the same location on an '07 silverado?
@@KodyMurray I am not sure. A good thing to do is crawl around under the truck and clean any ground you find. It sure won't hurt anything.
Thank you!!!
That fix my problem
Glad it helped!
Thank you sir I have a 2011 Hyundai accent with 165,211 miles on it and it has the same problem hopefully this takecares the problem
Hi Mossman, I will try this today, same symptoms, I replaced both wheel speed sensors (2002 Sub 1500 - front only) with no result, lights still come on, will post back if it's a fix, thanks! Froggy's Garage :)
Froggy - did you clean the grounds and did it solve your problem? I’m glad you said the wheel speed sensors may not be an issue I don’t wanna spend money on those unless I know they’re bad. I cleaned all my grounds and even re-ran some. What appears to have gone off for good but I think it came on momentarily at one point but I’m not sure
@@condor5635 Pretty sure it's the abs MODULE, driver side under rocker panel.
On the frame, has brake lines attached.
my 04 just start having the Brake & ABS light come on with the dash dinning then the battery light flashes, never had any issues in 6 months till today. All the grounds have already been cleaned couple months ago. Check engine light stays on even tho I fixed the code but won't turn off.
Thank you for this!
I don't have these grounds, where are they located at???help please
If you don't have this exact truck, then you have to crawl around under yours and look. There should be grounds on your frame. I would suggest cleaning all you can find. It sure won't hurt anything having good clean grounds.
Did the brake pedal go down to almost the floor but have brake fluid in resivior
No, you have other bigger issues if your pedal is going to the floor.
Great video brother !
Thank you !
Also - how do you bring back the PRNDL lights ?
You need your gauges rebuilt. That is a common problem on these trucks. I believe the circuit board has solder joints that are broken. That is why your indicator is gone. It probably started turning off and on then finally went dead.
@@mossman381 Thank you 🙏🏼 and that’s exactly what happened - it flickered for awhile and then !POOF! it was lights out
What about ford expedition my lights come on every now and then
Your voltage seemed higher than mine. Is that because of the dual batts? My 06 sierra 2500hd is always below 14?
I think you should be 14 or so. Dual batteries shouldn't change anything.
Same problem will try too.
Let you know. Thanks.
Great video what did u use to clean ground???
Anything you want to get good metal to metal contact.
@@mossman381 much appreciated
I owe you a cold one. This fixed my brake light issue and my service 4wd issue. Now my dash is almost completely clear. Last thing is my air bag light. Any suggestions?
It could be the sensor on the front of the truck. I have heard the plug can get corroded. I would unplug it clean it with electrical cleaner. Put some dielectric grease in the plug and see if that works. If not it's probably the sensor itself is bad. When you mess with airbag stuff I would unhook the battery and wait 10 minutes before touching it.
mossman381 will do. Thanks again!!
Front or rear cab mount/// left or right side please on 2001gmc 2500hd
Imagine ever taking your car to a shop and they tell you “hey we just cleaned some grounds. That’ll be $40 bucks”
Pretty much the reason I do all my own repairs.
@@mossman381 best way to do it. Repairs are always the small stuff and shops will go straight to the big stuff
Not these days probably more like $90 minimum
No they will tell you it's a bad viscous coupler in your transfer case making that noise and try to charge you $2300 to fix it, after you asked them to scan ABS cuz you think ABS pump is doing something funky but the ABS light isn't coming on at all but you just have a feeling that's what it is, so you end up taking their word on it cuz you have no experience with AWD vehicles and they swear that's the problem they've seen it a million times it's the exact sound, so you spend $400 and an entire Saturday swapping the viscous coupler just for the sound to still be there and it turns out these people never even scanned ABS. Ask me how I know.
Ok then you could have found and fixed the issue yourself
Sweet, Thanks for the heads up, excellent video. 👍👍👍
Where's the second one located? Should have said exactly where or shown the truck first then gone under for visual location.
Get under your truck and actually look at your frame. I am giving you info. I can't do the work for you. Different models will have the grounds in different spots. Look around and you will find them.
My truck is doing the exact same thing. It doesn't come on right away it take a couple minutes then they both come on and it dings a bunch. I bet this is it thanks.
I'm having the same problem with my 2003 chevy s10 4x4. Where would the ground wire be located at on my truck? I found one behind my driver side headlight. Cleaned it but no go. Thanks in advance.
Not really sure about an s10. I would guess it wouldn't be far from the abs module. I believe it is in the engine bay of an s10 so i would look around it. Maybe the frame below it.
@@mossman381 Ok will give that a try. Thank you
Nice and to the point.. I try to clean up the grounds on most of my stuff here and there as I'm working on it or around it. It's a definitely a good thing to get in the habit of doing. Glad it helped out with the issue!
Yup, always a good idea to clean up grounds when you see them. Especially in the areas known for rust and corrosion.
I'm gona try this. Thank You in advance if this works for me bud. Great vid
Sometimes it works sometimes it don't. It didn't work on my moms 2001 Tahoe.
I'm going to try, thanks for the video
Did it work for you? Hope so!
Having same problem in Tahoe. Will try
How did you clean the rust on the grounds?
Sand paper.
Do I have to disconnect my battery?
I need to check my grounds on my 2009 Silverado 2500HD. Nice video!
Worth a try.
Can a bad abs sensor make the break light turn on? Asking for Honda civic 2006. Cause my abs and break lights are all on. And the break fluid level is ok. Pls help
Don't know anything about a honda but I would assume that if your abs and brake lights are on you could have a similar ground issue.
Yes, it can. You can try cleaning the sensor and use multimeter to check continuity of the cable.
Where is that second set of grounds? I can’t locate them
Look around the outside of the frame. Should be able to find them pretty easy.
Your truck is much newer than mine (have 1990 sport truck). My park brake light stays on and or blinks when foot pedal is on/off. So now that I see others with similar grief I am going to look for bad grounds. I did take it to a brake shop and mechanically I am good. So in the mean time that candy bar is hiding that damn red light !!
Thanks for the video a rrealy helps
How did u clean the ground?
Small grinder. You can just use sand paper. Go to bare metal.
Trying to look for the spot of the grounds
I have a 2002 tahoe
what did you use to clean them
I used a little angle grinder. You want metal to metal contact. Doesn't matter how you get it.
Thanks for the good info
Gracias camarada
what did you use to clean then??
Used a grinder to clean frame to bare metal and a wire brush on the wire terminals.
Thanks i will try dat hope in pray it works for me tired of seeing this lit up christmas tree in my face all day while driving lmfao