Finally, some hard, experimental data on a subject nobody seems to agree on. The conclusions are clear and definitive: as long as you are smooth, you can use the front brake. Many thanks.
The hardest part is finding a way to practice this. I want to get that setup they got on their bike so I can practice this on my particular bike without worrying about the bike.
Teesh Yalamanchili get an off-road bike and practice on dirt! You’ll appreciate the feel of the controls more! Nobody knows how much you can actually brake on road coz you don’t know the road surface in practice (could be good, could be fuel or gravel etc) but getting the feel of the levers when it’s on the limit of grip does help. And if you’ve done off road you probably don’t panic as much just because your bikes starting to slide coz you’re used to it. Worth a go!
@@SteveInskip - thanks for the advice. I used to ride BMX, and did a bit of Mountain Biking, so I already have this natural tendency to ride the front brakes. Naturally those things don't weigh anything compared to a motorcycle but I've noticed the few times I've been riding I'm always feathering the front brakes. So perhaps it's just a matter of fine tuning my technique.
Teesh Yalamanchili yes, I think you’re right, but much cheaper to do it on an off reader! Falling off doesn’t matter so much and doesn’t cost so much. Have a good one!
@@yatman67 Keep 'feathering' mate, I've done the same since the seventies and have yet to have a tyre wash out on me and I often go into a corner too hot.
Now add to that a whet Street. Happened to me recently. Went in a bit fast and had to brake quite hard while leaned over on a rainy day. The only thought in my had was "please don't let go"
I had some close calls because I was getting into the corner too hot, but I still do braking on corners. Although I am a lot more cautious these days.. 😎😒😜
nah dude i break in corners all the time i dont care. I can feel the bike lose counter steering then apply throttle. That being said i aint starting my breaking in a tight corner
one of the best videos i've seen on braking. An expert rider taking it to the limit over and over so we can see the results. So great! As others have mentioned, I'd love to see the results with the back brake progressively engaged. There is a lot of free advice out there that says that's the way to do it when you over cook a corner - would love to see that tested!!
If we use too much front brake at all when stopping we actually throw our whole weight and that of the bike and passengers forward onto the front forks, down those forks and to the front wheel and eventually all that weight load is taken on ones front tyre and that has a contact patch as big as maybe three fingers in total. Not a lot of grip there then. However as we throw our weight forwards then we lose weight on the back end and end up doing a reverse wheely in that the front is heavier and the rear is lighter so the rear wheel lifts up and loses contact from the tarmac and thus rear brakes become useless. Yes we can initially brake with both front and rear but as we progress and weight shifts more and more we could lose the back end and all of its braking power..
You lose the back end before you actually get much braking done if you do this. It's easier to recover, which is why people recommend it, but it's not actually very effective. Even if that's all the braking effort you need, it'd be safer to get it from the front wheel smoothly. It's well within the traction limit. Plus it loads your front suspension better, shortening the wheel base.
I think I've been trail braking by instinct since I first started riding and never thought about it until I started watching these videos. I was on a ride in the north of Italy recently and following a group of bikers down the twisties on a mountain pass. I noticed all of them braked fairly significantly on the straight before the corner, because coasting round the corner without brakes and then accelerating again. I gave it a go for a few turns but to me it felt a whole lot more sketchy than using the brake smoothly all the way into the turn, I just feel in complete control even if it just lightly on the brake. Seems like it's acceptable provided you're smooth
Trail braking into it preloads your tyre. As long as you don't just dump it as you come off the lever, you'll be in better control doing that than neutrally loading. Same as getting on the power on the way out.
Another thing I learned about trail braking is that it unloads your front tire a bit (a good thing) so you can actually counter steer without muscling the bars. It's quite hard to turn the bars when you're on the brake hard after entering too fast for your comfort, which is also the bike saying 'it is hard to counter steer me because if you do I will probably lose traction.' So trailing off brake actually makes it easier to lean the bike in addition to safer
This is a great video for anyone who is planning a track day or even a rider school, because it is nice to show up with at least some braking knowledge. You guys really put out some real useful info. Great video!
I’m not a hard rider but get on a track day, or better still a IAM skills day and learn what your bike is capable of, far more than you ever imagined. Did wonders for my confidence and made me realise that even I could get rid of my chicken strips on my GS. Get it wrong and it’s amazing how a bike can get you out of trouble, being smooth is the key, especially so in the wet or on a poor surface.
I took my first m/c performance course more than 30 years ago. One of the exercises involved outriggers and high-speed, controlled braking. PANIC braking. Instructor asks for a show of hands at the beginning: "Who here likes to go fast?". Everybody raises their hands. Instructor: "Who here loves to brake fast?". Nobody raised their hands. We had to hit 60mph....and then lock it up. SCARY. But the lesson(s) have always stayed w/ me. FWIW: Been riding 41 years. Current ride: '87 BMW K75C. Because I lack ABS, I use a modified technique I call "Drop and Drag". I "drop" the front brake PRIOR to the corner; then release once I've scrubbed some speed, and drag the REAR brake thru the corner. This works especially well the tighter the corner. Seems to work; in 41 years, only been down once....and that was my front wheel hitting a fissure in the asphalt, locking the wheel, flipping me. Luckily, low speed (2nd gear), and aside from bruising, no serious injuries.
Great video, but a few thoughts/questions/comments... One: why not take the logical next step and discuss/show how to integrate trail braking into our riding technique? When to use it, when to avoid it (crap/slippery road surfaces, f. ex.). Show us how to integrate the use of throttle & brake (smoothly!) to help load the front suspension and therefore the front tire (or tyre- depending on your geography), increasing grip through the corner. How do I build that skill level when my entire life I’ve been taught to get your braking done while you’re relatively upright, before fully committing/leaning into the corner? Yes, I’m comfortable with gently easing off the brakes while entering a corner and transitioning to full lean, but once I’m into a corner, I don’t feel confident enough with the front tire’s grip/feedback to do much more than gently adjust the throttle, adjust the steering input, or just gently “drag” the brakes, trying to avoid any sudden, jerky inputs that could overcome the tire’s traction... Just as I think most of us have been conditioned to wait until we’re past the apex to start increasing the throttle, gingerly applying more as you come upright, or in really sharp/obstructed corners, as your view of the road ahead opens up... that sense of self-preservation (or cowardice?), has probably helped keep me alive for the more than thirty-five years I’ve ridden bikes, but has also limited my development as a rider- if you end up on your ass on the pavement just wondering what the hell happened without a clear understanding of WHY, there’s not much of a learning experience, or trust/incentive to explore the limits... Is there a more wholistic (not hollistic- although I’m happy to dance nekkid in the woods under a full moon with a cute hippie chick as long as she doesn’t reek of patchouli...) approach to developing this skill set for those of us who don’t have easy access to a race track and have an aversion to crashing our beloved bikes, as we get closer to exploring the limits of grip in the real world? Two: how about exploring the difference between using traction control and ABS versus switching them off? What would be the effect as it pertains to this video of having them on? I’m curious to see how that would impact those instances where the front tire let go? I’m fortunate to have a few bikes, but only one is new enough to have ABS and traction control. I know it’s a great improvement in not only safety, but confidence. However, all of these systems have their limits (and differences in capabilities), and can’t overcome the laws of physics, even if they can stretch them, so just what difference would they make in this test? You were there, with the outriggers, so surely it would have been simple enough to do an A/B comparison with the systems on vs. off? Which brings me to... Three: I want these outriggers!!! What an amazing learning tool these could be! Just for tire testing/comparisons alone- some basic data logging equipment providing hard numbers (braking distances in the wet vs. dry, f.ex.) coupled with seat-of-the-pants impressions and personal preferences (do you prefer a rounder or a more triangulated profile? These feel great, those don’t give much feedback at turn-in, etc.) could help select a set of tires that really are about as close to a perfect match for your use & priorities on an individual bike- how cool is that?!?! Then there’s the ability to explore (and cross!) the limits of you & your bike’s limits in relative safety without having your insurance company’s phone # on speed-dial or getting to know the staff at your local hospital by name (“Hi George- back again, are we? We’ve got your favorite bed by the window ready & waiting, and nurse Veronica will be by to give you a sponge-bath as soon as you’re out of surgery...”)! Never mind the fun you could have in the winter with studded tires... I’ve rambled on long enough- thanks for the great video, and the welcome mental distraction during all this Coronavirus crap! Now, back to my thoughts of nurse Veronica and that sponge-bath...
Well said. Done it this way for sixty years. You can take it one stage further, and correct the angle of the handlebars whilst you let the front brake off, and let the front wheel regain rotation, a bit of skill and experience needed, but it can save you in the wet.
There are very good arguments for braking in curves. If you must trail brake to negotiate a curve on public roads you are going too fast. And who doesn't do that once in a while? If you trail brake in all curves that you cannot see all the way around it is much easier to add a little (or a lot) more braking when necessary for safety's sake. I believe that too many riders subscribe to the notion that you shouldn't brake in curves. Practice it and all the other necessary skills to keep you alive.
It's when you enter too fast AND take a bad line that you would benefit from trail braking. If you have enough skill to take the correct line, this is much better. And very few corners will benefit from significant trail braking, even when you enter them stupidly fast. Racers benefit from trail braking on tracks that are much wider than what we will ever have, and they benefit by reducing lap time and/or enabling passing on the inside. It doesn't allow them to achieve higher cornering speeds or deeper lean angles. Braking in most street corners will only be useful at slower speeds, where you can actually decelerate significantly, in case you come round a bend to find a truck making a turn.
This is very good to know but another thing to know is to not treat public roads like bloody race tracks. There's no marshals or first aiders on standby on a public road somewhere and there could be a broken down vehicle, water run off, a wild animal, and so on, especially if it's blind and you're not familiar with that road. Very glad that I learned this early. For ages I've been riding up in the Brecon mountains on my own and often going so fast that I'm borderline at the edge of my personal skill level, which isn't that high anyway, I'm no Valentino Rossi, but it was just stupid. When you're in a group it can be worse, because then you sometimes ride to other peoples' pace. As riders of motorbikes, we all know deep down that you haven't got to go as fast as you would in a car to get the same thrill or enjoyment because all the elements are around you, you're exposed to the wind and are pretty much in harmony with the lovely machine rumbling in between your legs ; ) Slow down and enjoy the ride. If you can't enjoy ANY of the views, you're going too fast.
i always apply gradual brake pressure before turn, continuing into corner and lean as i apply more or less brake depending on situation and speed. it's just a natural thing to do, even on my bicycle.
I’ve manned up and started to brake into corners more but bear in mind, track surface is very different to the street and to the backroad. Once you start breaking late, you’re hitting dirt on the side of the road, panic sets in and.... keep it cool everyone 😎
@@kashifiqbal7896 big difference would be smacking in oncoming traffic because you thought the road ahead would be perfectly clean , property rubbered in and, of course, you're a professional rider, but somehow there was that little sandy right on the turn's entrance and suddenly you realise it's not the same thing.
@@johnybenx3165 Well watch the road carefully, ALL riders should do this. I've been riding for over 40 years, I trail brake virtually every time I ride and every time I ride in the hills/mountains, and on a 40 year old Z650 Kawasaki. You can brake in a corner way harder than most people will be game to try. I'm genuinely surprised how poorly MOST riders use their brakes....
Had a crash last month. Entered a tight turn too fast, I panicked and squeezed the front brake too much and I wiped out. Dumbest mistake I ever did. Good thing I only suffered minor injury on my knee and wrist, and a few sratches on my bike. Ever since I'm afraid of turns and also of braking and just ride moderate speeds. Learned it the hard way.
@@lostworld5667 you need to practice it on the bicycle. If you learn to save front wheel slide in the leaning position it will be easier for you on the motorbike. On the public roads you should use trail braking only like lifesaver tbh
I don't think back braking in a corner is a good idea at all. It does not have as much load on the tire and if it slips then you could have the worst case scenario which is a high side crash.
I've always hear advice to the effects of "Even touch the front brake in a turn and you'll flippin' DIE!". And I've always though "well that doesnt make any sense", Glad to see someone test it and give a real answer.
What you're saying has always been my understanding and practice, however the road based training courses I have attended lately recommend that if we see an obstruction mid corner, we should momentarily pick the bike upright, break firmly as you describe, loading the front, washing off as much speed as needed then tip bike back into the bend. Obviously a race track is another kettle of fish entirely, with other racers expecting you to maintain a smooth line but I think it is always valuable to know that there are other techniques.
Although I have been riding for LOTS of years, I am always looking for 'improvements' in my skills, and discovering the advancements in technology & tires. So... there are some 'favorite curves' near by home, that I go thru often, even when just 'running errands'... and I have been practicing things like braking IN the curve -- as if there was debris in the road or an animal runs across -- to 'learn' how to slow down without standing the bike up, nor locking the front end, and while controlling the path of my bike... I have experienced 'reverse-counter-steering' when I limit the counter-steering as the bike wants to stand up, but I need to hold the line I am on, but slower. Other sensations I don't have a name for have come to light, as well. But I have found new skills, and sort of a 'game' to make even my 'mundane' riding more interesting... And each time that I can 'push' just a small bit further -- with more entry speed, or firmer braking, or even some acceleration to move a bit outward in the curve to miss debris -- I feel just a little 'joy' and sense of accomplishment.
How hard you can squeeze the front brake in the middle of a corner depends on how much lean angle you have. You have to trade lean angle points for braking/acceleration points. The more lean the less brakes and vice versa... Greetings from Germany🤙
I’ve always trail braked, mainly with the back, but I started with off-road for a few years when I was quite young, so I’ve always treated the controls with some respect anyway. Dunno if it’d work for everyone but I’m happy with it.
Rear trail braking defeats the reasoning behind the technique as front trail braking sets up the suspension and loads the tyre for a larger contact patch. By rear trail braking the rear squats and extends the forks increasing the trail which can cause the bike to straighten up. Rear braking can be used on a larger cruiser without this effect happening as much.
This isn’t hard panic braking it’s scrubbing speed off and I did say ‘mainly’. If I need the lose speed very quickly, which is rare, then the front brakes do come in handy. 😉
@@SteveInskip I never assumed you were in a hard braking situation. My point is that trail braking technique is fundamentally the front brake and not the rear, although as I stated the rear can be used on large cruiser style bikes. 👍😁
Spad562 never ridden a cruiser so I’ll take your word for that one. My poison is normally fast nakeds and the occasional sports bike. Anyway, take care bud and good riding! 👍
This is great and what I expected. It would have been great if you had also shown footage that day of keeping the ABS system on, to demonstrate its effectiveness (good or bad)? Thank you.
Missing for me is one way to tighten up turn wo/ braking more is to increase lean angle. The rider was barely off center in every case. Bet if he tipped in more he could have done a lot before even needing to touch the brakes. Two things I see most often when folks see a tightening turn are either grab the brake or stand the bike up and pray for an exit route. Lean often I think a better solution. And if the bike goes, you've a shorter distance to fall! :)
The "trail" in trail breaking is often misunderstood. It means "trail off" - so a strong bite then a steady trailing-off of brake pressure to the apex. This loads the front suspension through the corner until you can see the exit - so if you need to brake, you're front pre-loaded and it's less risky. I'm no expert but there are lots of great books on this :)
on the street... (not track)... if im going to hot into a turn - i think the most important thin is to everything smooth - if you break, also think of releasing it if speed it fine for turning and making the turn. I have seen people breaking so hard that the bike gets upright and they are leaving the road - breaking way to much - they would have the speed to pass the curve easily. Secound thing in my oppinion is: If breaking is done - to the amount you thin you can handle it - lean over the bike .... if you fall off the bike - i want to slide out of the corner and not leaving the corner upright into the fences because i havent leaned as much as possible and maybe i would have made the corner. short - if im too fast - break smooth as much needed - next is to lean over so you make the turn --- if everything doesn't work i want to slide and reduce speed on the leather before hitting the fances and not driving into the fances. Best thing is of course - dont ride as stupid on road that you dont have any safety margin left... :-)
As long as you are in first gear whenever you come to a stop like you should be, it shouldn't be an issue. Then again there are some extremely steep hills in the world that anybody would probably be a little uncomfortable on.
A long time ago someone told me to gently use the back brake in a corner if you need a little more or to settle the bike, though I cannot remember having needing to all these years, guess I've just been lucky.
Very sensible, interesting , no ego upload. Would be nice to see this done with rear brake too and clutch out. I'll be doing an upload soon explaining why trail braking except in an emergency should be confined to track riding only. Thanks for this upload. Russ
Just ride sane on public roads especially on curves,reserve the ferocity Ang aggressive riding to the race track,very helpful video sir,you got a new subscriber from the Philippines!👍👍👍
Don't try this at home? Well I would love to give this a go as part of advanced motorbike training. I'm not suggesting that I'd reach 70mph going into a bend but practice like this in a controlled set up would be a great confidence booster and lesson in the capability of modern tyres to grip at the extreme. To be able to repeat the experience time and again would reduce the level of panic in situations which often throws fine control out the window. Off road and Wheelie school might be more obvious fun but exploring tyre grip in this way saves lives. I'd pay for that. How about it training schools?
I came from an ebike background into motorcycling and yeah. Easy braking is pretty safe. Rear braking works too. Your engine is already doing it. Don't just jump on and do it though. Learn first. Learn feel. Practice tons in a controlled environment. Practice often. You'll need it in an oh shit eventually, but while you have the chance, take it.
Alternatively on a road you're unfamiliar with and entering a corner that suddenly tightens up. You should already be going slow enough to stop within the area of tarmac you can see in front of you. You'd be lucky if it was a car in front of you that had suddenly stopped god help you if it was road works or, as happened to me once, a landslide had completely filled the road.
@1066Rider A lot of what i've learnt over 40+ years of riding bikes, mostly over 750cc is almost totally down to riding at an appropriate speed for any condition. Not just road conditions but personal ones too. Car drivers think I'm bonkers when I tell them what I have to take into account, none of them ever consider the effects of September on the roads until I point out its Autumn especially if it's wet ! They never consider how a car might behave on wet leaves.......slightly different on two wheels. But then say Autumn or Winter to a biker and we all think the same thing and it's not what car drivers think !
@@Agussg23 I don't think that's a good idea, the rear tyre loses alot of traction when cornering, rear braking can result in lowside or highside (if you regain traction abruptly) , so between the fact that the rear brake is very weak in any situation, plus the fact that you are cornering doesn't give you much braking force possibilities, it's almost more effective to use engine braking and less risky. The front tyre however has alot of weight and grip when braking, so you gain more grip when braking contrary to the rear tyre, and you can brake way harder thanks to that , you also lose cornering capability so there is still a limit to how much braking force you can apply before you enter the opposite lane or leave the road when going left. But that's true of any land vehicule, lock the wheels of a car and you are going straight out of the road you can no longer turn. Best combination I can think of is staying low on gears wen cornering to get high engine braking if needed, and front brake as much as you can, maybe help a bit with the rear brake, but combining it with engine brakd maybe isn't a good idea, you may lose too much grip. If you are more of a sporty rider and take out your body more than you lean the bike, the more the bike is straight and the more braking you can have, the less you move your body to the inside of a turn, the more you have to lean the bike and the less braking you can have, that's also a rule that can help you keep a safety net if needed, taking your body a bit out even if you are not on a sport bike.
Understanding and using counter-steering is one of the most important techniques, with trail braking next. If the corner tightens, you just have to learn to counter-steer in harder and the bike will handle it. If you chop the throttle or brake you increase the chance of a crash. You mention "California Super-bike School" - just watch his "Twist of the Wrist II by Keith Code". 1 and a 1/2 hours of how to take a corner. Some corny dialogue but it's compulsory viewing for any biker who wants to improve and stay safe.
Agreed, get counter-steering right in your head before testing your limits with braking in a corner, maybe master that 2nd if you still think it will help. Not sure why you would switch off the ABS to test this theory though when in the real world pretty much every bike has it by now. Maybe the same test with ABS and what the difference was would of been good. And while your at it maybe a caveat if the roads are wet.
Don't try this at home? Well I would love to give this a go as part of advanced motorbike training. I'm not suggesting that I'd reach 70mph going into a bend but practice like this in a controlled set up would be a great confidence booster and lesson in the capability of modern tyres to grip at the extreme. To be able to repeat the experience time and again would reduce the level of panic in situations which often throws fine control out the window. Off road and Wheelie school might be more obvious fun but exploring tyre grip in this way saves lives. I'd pay for that. How about it training schools?
I watched the Keith Code film and I learned a huge amount. Heavy braking increases the contact patch of the tyre and results in different wheel speeds theoretically
I did this when I was younger on my 06 FZ1 just making a left at a light and a car stopped in front of me grabbed the front brake. Not very hard at all and the bike went down faster than I could comprehend next thing I know I'm in the road with the bike on my left leg, crushed my left ankle, broke my left collar bone and broke my right hand. Was standing up in shock after I managed to get the bike off me trying to pick it up so I could drive off. Wasn't happening. Went down so hard I cracked the block and completely warped my handlebars sideways.
We all do actually brake on bends or rather when travelling round curves in the road we cant do otherwise and if we are gentle on slowing with or without the need to use the brakes nothing un towards happens so its something that we would do every day under normal riding conditions. Our roads in the UK are full of curves, bends and then corners. What we must not do is instinctively slap on or grab the front brake as that braking overloads the the front tyre grip on the tarmac and that is then a slide off. Not nice. Many times one can use the back brake but gently and that will not only slow one down, slowly but it also helps one to tighten the curve and possibly make the bend safer. Further one can also use more counter steering and push slightly more on the lower handlebar just a little more and that may also assist us to make a bend and come out the other side. However the speed going into any bends is of primary importance and many riders lose it by going in too fast and that could mean not coming out of it. As an example we are taking a bend at 40 mph so our good safe braking distance that we can see ahead is hopefully to the limit point which should be 120 ft or more. We then have to take into account our lean angle of say of 40 deg. from the vertical. That, basically for ease of calculation means that we are already using up some 40% of our grip level between the front tyre and the tarmac. That means that we no longer have 100% of our original braking capacity but its now limited to only 60%. If we exceed that 60% we will more than likely lose the front tyre grip level as we are pushing it over the 100% level. So we lose our front wheel grip and off we come. If we go back to our safe stopping distance as being that 120 ft. its not actually. That distance is for a car on a dry and straight road and we are on a motorcycle and leant over on a bend and with only some 60 % of our braking capacity left so that means that even if we can use all of what we have in terms of braking on that bend we will exceed that safe stopping distance of 120 ft. and maybe with moire gradual slowing and stop in 150 ft or more. That means that we have run past the 120 ft safe stopping space we had originally and have ended up running round that corner into whatever. we don't know. . So it beholds us to actually slow even more on bends , always presume or assume a hazard such as a tightening radius or stopped vehicle, horse etc. then if we are required to stop suddenly or even gradually we can stop without running out of road and neve ever grab the brakes
Need front and back in perfect balance - without any skidding. To get a feel for this try experimenting on flat dirt surface slightly cornering gently braking front and back - the bike is controllable if the balance is across both - ease on until feel a hint of sliding then regulate one or other. Translate this feel you learn to a grippier bitumen surface. Need to practice to have been in situation before. If really too hot in, stopping in a straight line slows ten times better if possible - to slow aggressively before hitting anything. Can almost lock the front if straight on level ground.
As new uk direct access rider at a sensible 40yrs this is the very reason a am thinking about a bike with cornering ABS. In my opinion all big bikes aimed at new riders should have it as a safety margin for inexperience
I know 'load the tire before you work the tire' is the saying, but is that the full story? I'm wondering if the front fork is the main culprit and not actually the rubber not being able to grip fast. Braking fast will also rebound the fork fast which will momentarily lift the rubber up and make your contact patch really tiny, so I wonder if that is the issue more so than the actual rubber physically needing time to grip.
Great video, good information and perfect length - not too rabbly! Would be great to see more of Chris. Maybe some videos on controlling front wheel lift or rear wheel spin during a launch?
@@bennettsbikesocial For better or for worse this is my typical panic response to finding myself in a corner too hot. Scrub speed with the rear and tighten my line as much as possible. The only time I've come across an unexpected obstacle I managed to aim for the centreline, stand the bike up, "progressively" loading up the brakes all the while and came to a halt between the rear door of the stopped car and the front tyre of a lorry. Lost a foot peg to the cars rear bumper, bruised my foot, had to check my underpants, vowed to never put myself in that position again and decided to do some serious practice with my braking technique.
@@eoinkenny3188 Glad you're okay! The best advice is of course to not go any faster than you can see to be clear, but understanding how the bike reacts is really helpful. Cheers!
Front brake's braking force is typically around 70-80%, but it can go as high as 100% Rear brake is not as precise and it is easier to lock up the rear wheel than the front. Front brake force bike back to upright position where the rear make it to lean more, but things can change quickly if you lock up a wheel (often a crash). When a rear wheel gets grip again it can lead to a high side. When a front wheel gets grip again it usually wobble a bit.
Thia is for advanced riders (racer's stuff). How about only using only the rear brake, even not that fast. Can you make a video tackling the proper way of that? Not all people are confident enough of touching the front brake on turns and curves.
applying only rear brake straighten up the bike and it takes you out of the bend i wouldnt recomended it. Anyway why you dont try it for yourself. On hot summer day when tyres have good temperature and on dry road just gently press rear brake in small leaning angle in the bend . Why you need advice from others when its easy find out for yourself
Your scenario is exactly what happened to me! I went to the peak district and was surprised by a hairpin, I had already been braking as I came down the hill to the bend and used my rear brake (Like slow manoeuvring) while taking the turn... it slammed me and broke my ankle. Still recovering
I always ride with a GPS mounted on my dash. Even if don't need turn by turn navigation. That way I can always see what the next turn is going to be like and never get surprised.
I sometimes use the front brake in a corner. No problem at all as long you do it smooth and soft. When you hit the brake hard the bike will want to go straight and upright and you will have a problem.
Started riding in just a month, when i feel the corner is too sharp i usually use the rear brake and verry little input into the front. I don't know if its good or bad technique. Never had a problem with it. I am riding a cruiser by the way.
I've never lost a bike on a corner but I've never had a sports bike. Good information though. I'm not saying I never had to brake on a bend but I'm probably not going as fast as a sports bike which encourage speed. One corner was hard braking before I got into the corner and realised it was a 90° right turn on a Yorkshire country road with other tight corners..
Whilst on a road in the UK we are taught to use the limit point for our speed around any curve or bend. However once at that maximum cornering speed and needing to brake if we were on a dry road and going straight we could brake quite hard and in that distance to be seen but whilst leant over and on a bend with already using some grip due to speed and lean angle some of our braking capacity is lost and if we can only use some 60 to 70% of our braking capacity how much further would we need to see past that limit point [ say being a mere 120 ft ahead ] in order to come to come to a stop?. Also in the wet we are told to allow twice our dry braking distances on a wet road so if we can see the limit point is say 120 ft away and we are doing 40 mph., that's a braking distance on a straight line and in the dry, But just how much distance do we need and can we stop in in order to brake in the wet from that 40 mph with only 120ft of seeing distance. how much further would we need to travel in order to come to a stop? Can anyone hazard a guess. I cant but I know that it will take quite a few feet or metres of further travel to be able to stop and it will be well past the so called safe limit point. So it will bring into question all that we know about stopping distances and about the taking of bends and speeds relevant to the limit point.
Its clear to me that if you brake gently all the way into the turn then provided the road surface has good grip you can use more braking force than you thought possible.
What if you drag the rear brake very gently on dry track while entering the turn? I find it useful. Slows down the bike ever so slightly but gives more confidence
just use the front, way more control on that brake. I have about 10k kilometers on me as a rider and i can do some light to medium trail braking, i'm sure experienced people can do better. Specially if you ride the track
I think it depends on the bike. Not every bike comes with dual front brake. When you're making hard stop both front and rear is needed.otherwise they'd just stop adding rear brake on all bikes
Welp my elbow and knee is **up rn after I use front brake on road that mixed with some kinda sand and rock it just slip when I turn just a little and thx you for making this video it help me alot.. 👍👍
it would be cool if there was a place that could easily hook these rigs up to peoples personal bikes so they can get a real feel for braking in a corner. something like a msf course but on your own bike so you can have more control and confidence.
Yes, you should absolutely use the front brake when going into corners at speed. It's called trail braking, and I have been doing it on the streets of this country for over 50 years without a single issue.
I always wondered what would happen if you apply maximum brake while cornering, but with ABS. Can your front wheel slip lateraly, or does ABS prevent that?
if you get your front tire warm with a few braking sessions, I haven't ever had an issue using 30-50% front brakes around 45-40 deg lean. That's on some michelin pilot powers or RS's though. I could only use about 10% brake pressure on old Dunlop qualifiers before they turned in. It would be amazing to use that machine though. Can I have a go?
My bike didn't had ABS, I was on a very small local turn. I have passion pro 2020 bs6. it's brakes are good enough on grippy and straight roads. Today I was running it and suddenly a girl with a bicycle came in my way on the turn. Even though I could easily control my bike. even my bike was slow. but I got my focus on girl and not on my hand on the brake. I accidentally tightened the front disk-brake and tyre got slipped and my left hand got a wound and my leg also. do you know what next. she stopped in her way. and thought of helping me but I simply stood up my self and Took my bike, she left. I was safe but My bike got a very small bend in its handle bar and some scratches on the wiser and headlight. That wound on bike broke my heart I am here learning more about braking
Yep, smoothness is key. I think the best way to enter a road turn is with engine break, you can downshift at mid turn, just take care of clutch. Having a good rear break technique is great for stabilizing the bike. Street filtering is way safe while rear brake is lightly engaged. Just like WSBK riders do at turn exit.
Finally, some hard, experimental data on a subject nobody seems to agree on. The conclusions are clear and definitive: as long as you are smooth, you can use the front brake. Many thanks.
The hardest part is finding a way to practice this. I want to get that setup they got on their bike so I can practice this on my particular bike without worrying about the bike.
Teesh Yalamanchili get an off-road bike and practice on dirt! You’ll appreciate the feel of the controls more! Nobody knows how much you can actually brake on road coz you don’t know the road surface in practice (could be good, could be fuel or gravel etc) but getting the feel of the levers when it’s on the limit of grip does help. And if you’ve done off road you probably don’t panic as much just because your bikes starting to slide coz you’re used to it. Worth a go!
@@SteveInskip - thanks for the advice. I used to ride BMX, and did a bit of Mountain Biking, so I already have this natural tendency to ride the front brakes. Naturally those things don't weigh anything compared to a motorcycle but I've noticed the few times I've been riding I'm always feathering the front brakes. So perhaps it's just a matter of fine tuning my technique.
Teesh Yalamanchili yes, I think you’re right, but much cheaper to do it on an off reader! Falling off doesn’t matter so much and doesn’t cost so much. Have a good one!
@@yatman67 Keep 'feathering' mate, I've done the same since the seventies and have yet to have a tyre wash out on me and I often go into a corner too hot.
worst thing about braking in a corner (even smoothly) is that screaming anxiety of 'FUUUUUUUUCKK!!'
Bahahaha exactly lol!!
Now add to that a whet Street. Happened to me recently. Went in a bit fast and had to brake quite hard while leaned over on a rainy day. The only thought in my had was "please don't let go"
Absolutely impeccably right spot on
I had some close calls because I was getting into the corner too hot, but I still do braking on corners. Although I am a lot more cautious these days.. 😎😒😜
nah dude i break in corners all the time i dont care. I can feel the bike lose counter steering then apply throttle. That being said i aint starting my breaking in a tight corner
Brilliant advice. I think outriggers and cornering should be part of the UK bike test. It would improve everyone's skillset
They’re a bugger to filter with though!
I'm 63 and been riding ever chance I got for 45 yrs but still learning more in the last 5 yrs than in the 50 yrs before thanks to UTUBE.
one of the best videos i've seen on braking. An expert rider taking it to the limit over and over so we can see the results. So great! As others have mentioned, I'd love to see the results with the back brake progressively engaged. There is a lot of free advice out there that says that's the way to do it when you over cook a corner - would love to see that tested!!
conscious - I want to see this too - using only the back brake.
If we use too much front brake at all when stopping we actually throw our whole weight and that of the bike and passengers forward onto the front forks, down those forks and to the front wheel and eventually all that weight load is taken on ones front tyre and that has a contact patch as big as maybe three fingers in total. Not a lot of grip there then. However as we throw our weight forwards then we lose weight on the back end and end up doing a reverse wheely in that the front is heavier and the rear is lighter so the rear wheel lifts up and loses contact from the tarmac and thus rear brakes become useless. Yes we can initially brake with both front and rear but as we progress and weight shifts more and more we could lose the back end and all of its braking power..
You lose the back end before you actually get much braking done if you do this. It's easier to recover, which is why people recommend it, but it's not actually very effective. Even if that's all the braking effort you need, it'd be safer to get it from the front wheel smoothly. It's well within the traction limit. Plus it loads your front suspension better, shortening the wheel base.
@@233kostaYou get it!!!
What an awesome demonstration. This totally clarified the technique. How can anyone give this a thumbs down??? Its genius.
I think I've been trail braking by instinct since I first started riding and never thought about it until I started watching these videos. I was on a ride in the north of Italy recently and following a group of bikers down the twisties on a mountain pass. I noticed all of them braked fairly significantly on the straight before the corner, because coasting round the corner without brakes and then accelerating again. I gave it a go for a few turns but to me it felt a whole lot more sketchy than using the brake smoothly all the way into the turn, I just feel in complete control even if it just lightly on the brake. Seems like it's acceptable provided you're smooth
Trail braking into it preloads your tyre. As long as you don't just dump it as you come off the lever, you'll be in better control doing that than neutrally loading.
Same as getting on the power on the way out.
Another thing I learned about trail braking is that it unloads your front tire a bit (a good thing) so you can actually counter steer without muscling the bars. It's quite hard to turn the bars when you're on the brake hard after entering too fast for your comfort, which is also the bike saying 'it is hard to counter steer me because if you do I will probably lose traction.' So trailing off brake actually makes it easier to lean the bike in addition to safer
This is a great video for anyone who is planning a track day or even a rider school, because it is nice to show up with at least some braking knowledge. You guys really put out some real useful info. Great video!
An 'idiots guide to trail braking' - first clip on this technique that I've actually fully understood!
I’m not a hard rider but get on a track day, or better still a IAM skills day and learn what your bike is capable of, far more than you ever imagined. Did wonders for my confidence and made me realise that even I could get rid of my chicken strips on my GS. Get it wrong and it’s amazing how a bike can get you out of trouble, being smooth is the key, especially so in the wet or on a poor surface.
I took my first m/c performance course more than 30 years ago. One of the exercises involved outriggers and high-speed, controlled braking. PANIC braking. Instructor asks for a show of hands at the beginning: "Who here likes to go fast?". Everybody raises their hands. Instructor: "Who here loves to brake fast?". Nobody raised their hands. We had to hit 60mph....and then lock it up. SCARY. But the lesson(s) have always stayed w/ me. FWIW: Been riding 41 years. Current ride: '87 BMW K75C.
Because I lack ABS, I use a modified technique I call "Drop and Drag". I "drop" the front brake PRIOR to the corner; then release once I've scrubbed some speed, and drag the REAR brake thru the corner. This works especially well the tighter the corner. Seems to work; in 41 years, only been down once....and that was my front wheel hitting a fissure in the asphalt, locking the wheel, flipping me. Luckily, low speed (2nd gear), and aside from bruising, no serious injuries.
This video did wonders for my confidence. Have always been nervous about this but now I know that if I'm super smooth, it'll be ok.
Don't surprise the brakes and everything's a lot easier! Cheers, John
Great video, but a few thoughts/questions/comments... One: why not take the logical next step and discuss/show how to integrate trail braking into our riding technique? When to use it, when to avoid it (crap/slippery road surfaces, f. ex.). Show us how to integrate the use of throttle & brake (smoothly!) to help load the front suspension and therefore the front tire (or tyre- depending on your geography), increasing grip through the corner. How do I build that skill level when my entire life I’ve been taught to get your braking done while you’re relatively upright, before fully committing/leaning into the corner? Yes, I’m comfortable with gently easing off the brakes while entering a corner and transitioning to full lean, but once I’m into a corner, I don’t feel confident enough with the front tire’s grip/feedback to do much more than gently adjust the throttle, adjust the steering input, or just gently “drag” the brakes, trying to avoid any sudden, jerky inputs that could overcome the tire’s traction... Just as I think most of us have been conditioned to wait until we’re past the apex to start increasing the throttle, gingerly applying more as you come upright, or in really sharp/obstructed corners, as your view of the road ahead opens up... that sense of self-preservation (or cowardice?), has probably helped keep me alive for the more than thirty-five years I’ve ridden bikes, but has also limited my development as a rider- if you end up on your ass on the pavement just wondering what the hell happened without a clear understanding of WHY, there’s not much of a learning experience, or trust/incentive to explore the limits... Is there a more wholistic (not hollistic- although I’m happy to dance nekkid in the woods under a full moon with a cute hippie chick as long as she doesn’t reek of patchouli...) approach to developing this skill set for those of us who don’t have easy access to a race track and have an aversion to crashing our beloved bikes, as we get closer to exploring the limits of grip in the real world? Two: how about exploring the difference between using traction control and ABS versus switching them off? What would be the effect as it pertains to this video of having them on? I’m curious to see how that would impact those instances where the front tire let go? I’m fortunate to have a few bikes, but only one is new enough to have ABS and traction control. I know it’s a great improvement in not only safety, but confidence. However, all of these systems have their limits (and differences in capabilities), and can’t overcome the laws of physics, even if they can stretch them, so just what difference would they make in this test? You were there, with the outriggers, so surely it would have been simple enough to do an A/B comparison with the systems on vs. off? Which brings me to... Three: I want these outriggers!!! What an amazing learning tool these could be! Just for tire testing/comparisons alone- some basic data logging equipment providing hard numbers (braking distances in the wet vs. dry, f.ex.) coupled with seat-of-the-pants impressions and personal preferences (do you prefer a rounder or a more triangulated profile? These feel great, those don’t give much feedback at turn-in, etc.) could help select a set of tires that really are about as close to a perfect match for your use & priorities on an individual bike- how cool is that?!?! Then there’s the ability to explore (and cross!) the limits of you & your bike’s limits in relative safety without having your insurance company’s phone # on speed-dial or getting to know the staff at your local hospital by name (“Hi George- back again, are we? We’ve got your favorite bed by the window ready & waiting, and nurse Veronica will be by to give you a sponge-bath as soon as you’re out of surgery...”)! Never mind the fun you could have in the winter with studded tires... I’ve rambled on long enough- thanks for the great video, and the welcome mental distraction during all this Coronavirus crap! Now, back to my thoughts of nurse Veronica and that sponge-bath...
Well said.
Done it this way for sixty years.
You can take it one stage further, and correct the angle of the handlebars whilst you let the front brake off, and let the front wheel regain rotation, a bit of skill and experience needed, but it can save you in the wet.
There are very good arguments for braking in curves. If you must trail brake to negotiate a curve on public roads you are going too fast. And who doesn't do that once in a while? If you trail brake in all curves that you cannot see all the way around it is much easier to add a little (or a lot) more braking when necessary for safety's sake. I believe that too many riders subscribe to the notion that you shouldn't brake in curves. Practice it and all the other necessary skills to keep you alive.
It's when you enter too fast AND take a bad line that you would benefit from trail braking. If you have enough skill to take the correct line, this is much better. And very few corners will benefit from significant trail braking, even when you enter them stupidly fast. Racers benefit from trail braking on tracks that are much wider than what we will ever have, and they benefit by reducing lap time and/or enabling passing on the inside. It doesn't allow them to achieve higher cornering speeds or deeper lean angles.
Braking in most street corners will only be useful at slower speeds, where you can actually decelerate significantly, in case you come round a bend to find a truck making a turn.
This is very good to know but another thing to know is to not treat public roads like bloody race tracks. There's no marshals or first aiders on standby on a public road somewhere and there could be a broken down vehicle, water run off, a wild animal, and so on, especially if it's blind and you're not familiar with that road.
Very glad that I learned this early. For ages I've been riding up in the Brecon mountains on my own and often going so fast that I'm borderline at the edge of my personal skill level, which isn't that high anyway, I'm no Valentino Rossi, but it was just stupid. When you're in a group it can be worse, because then you sometimes ride to other peoples' pace.
As riders of motorbikes, we all know deep down that you haven't got to go as fast as you would in a car to get the same thrill or enjoyment because all the elements are around you, you're exposed to the wind and are pretty much in harmony with the lovely machine rumbling in between your legs ; )
Slow down and enjoy the ride. If you can't enjoy ANY of the views, you're going too fast.
i always apply gradual brake pressure before turn, continuing into corner and lean as i apply more or less brake depending on situation and speed. it's just a natural thing to do, even on my bicycle.
The rear brake is also good in a corner to balance the bike and slow you down but like the front brake be GENTLE !
honestly thats the best answer to what i have been searching for a couple of hours
Fantastic advice and great footage on trail braking and it's limits.
I’ve manned up and started to brake into corners more but bear in mind, track surface is very different to the street and to the backroad. Once you start breaking late, you’re hitting dirt on the side of the road, panic sets in and.... keep it cool everyone 😎
Backroad and trackroad is not big difference.
Big difference is about Street Rider N professional Rider.
And in cornering u can try Tailbraking.
@@kashifiqbal7896 big difference would be smacking in oncoming traffic because you thought the road ahead would be perfectly clean , property rubbered in and, of course, you're a professional rider, but somehow there was that little sandy right on the turn's entrance and suddenly you realise it's not the same thing.
@@johnybenx3165 Well watch the road carefully, ALL riders should do this. I've been riding for over 40 years, I trail brake virtually every time I ride and every time I ride in the hills/mountains, and on a 40 year old Z650 Kawasaki. You can brake in a corner way harder than most people will be game to try. I'm genuinely surprised how poorly MOST riders use their brakes....
Has Lorenzo seen this clip after Catalunya ?
Haha.. Are you talking about the recent MotoGP race?! Oh come on, you are mean!! LOL..
@@Tobeon2 he he Yes and , I can think of three other riders who agree !! ;-)
@@ianwalker4803 yup.. I totally agree with those riders too.. Lol
😂 😂 😂
🤣🤣🤣
Best way I ever heard this summed up by someone was 'don't surprise the tyre'.
Had a crash last month. Entered a tight turn too fast, I panicked and squeezed the front brake too much and I wiped out. Dumbest mistake I ever did. Good thing I only suffered minor injury on my knee and wrist, and a few sratches on my bike. Ever since I'm afraid of turns and also of braking and just ride moderate speeds. Learned it the hard way.
Same here 😀 ...now i am learning what went wrong how can we avoid it
@@lostworld5667 you need to practice it on the bicycle. If you learn to save front wheel slide in the leaning position it will be easier for you on the motorbike. On the public roads you should use trail braking only like lifesaver tbh
can you please try the same tests but with abs and back brake?
That bike has abs.
@@Ryan-re1rs they disconnected it.
I don't think back braking in a corner is a good idea at all. It does not have as much load on the tire and if it slips then you could have the worst case scenario which is a high side crash.
I was just about to comment the same. Many bikes today use ABS.
Corpulent Allgod yes, also the bike will try to stand up and become almost uncontrollable
Chris was my trainer a couple of years ago, he's awesome. Great video Chris. Cheers, Mark
I've always hear advice to the effects of "Even touch the front brake in a turn and you'll flippin' DIE!". And I've always though "well that doesnt make any sense", Glad to see someone test it and give a real answer.
What you're saying has always been my understanding and practice, however the road based training courses I have attended lately recommend that if we see an obstruction mid corner, we should momentarily pick the bike upright, break firmly as you describe, loading the front, washing off as much speed as needed then tip bike back into the bend. Obviously a race track is another kettle of fish entirely, with other racers expecting you to maintain a smooth line but I think it is always valuable to know that there are other techniques.
Getting the bike upright (or a car's steering straight) is certainely better when possible and should allow for a harder or faster braking.
Although I have been riding for LOTS of years, I am always looking for 'improvements' in my skills, and discovering the advancements in technology & tires.
So... there are some 'favorite curves' near by home, that I go thru often, even when just 'running errands'... and I have been practicing things like braking IN the curve -- as if there was debris in the road or an animal runs across -- to 'learn' how to slow down without standing the bike up, nor locking the front end, and while controlling the path of my bike... I have experienced 'reverse-counter-steering' when I limit the counter-steering as the bike wants to stand up, but I need to hold the line I am on, but slower. Other sensations I don't have a name for have come to light, as well. But I have found new skills, and sort of a 'game' to make even my 'mundane' riding more interesting... And each time that I can 'push' just a small bit further -- with more entry speed, or firmer braking, or even some acceleration to move a bit outward in the curve to miss debris -- I feel just a little 'joy' and sense of accomplishment.
How hard you can squeeze the front brake in the middle of a corner depends on how much lean angle you have. You have to trade lean angle points for braking/acceleration points. The more lean the less brakes and vice versa...
Greetings from Germany🤙
Awesome vid... I constantly brake deep into the corner using trail braking. 95% of the time I have no surprises, when I do Im able to correct them.
I’ve always trail braked, mainly with the back, but I started with off-road for a few years when I was quite young, so I’ve always treated the controls with some respect anyway. Dunno if it’d work for everyone but I’m happy with it.
Rear trail braking defeats the reasoning behind the technique as front trail braking sets up the suspension and loads the tyre for a larger contact patch. By rear trail braking the rear squats and extends the forks increasing the trail which can cause the bike to straighten up. Rear braking can be used on a larger cruiser without this effect happening as much.
This isn’t hard panic braking it’s scrubbing speed off and I did say ‘mainly’. If I need the lose speed very quickly, which is rare, then the front brakes do come in handy. 😉
@@SteveInskip I never assumed you were in a hard braking situation. My point is that trail braking technique is fundamentally the front brake and not the rear, although as I stated the rear can be used on large cruiser style bikes. 👍😁
Spad562 never ridden a cruiser so I’ll take your word for that one. My poison is normally fast nakeds and the occasional sports bike. Anyway, take care bud and good riding! 👍
This is great and what I expected. It would have been great if you had also shown footage that day of keeping the ABS system on, to demonstrate its effectiveness (good or bad)? Thank you.
Missing for me is one way to tighten up turn wo/ braking more is to increase lean angle. The rider was barely off center in every case. Bet if he tipped in more he could have done a lot before even needing to touch the brakes. Two things I see most often when folks see a tightening turn are either grab the brake or stand the bike up and pray for an exit route. Lean often I think a better solution. And if the bike goes, you've a shorter distance to fall! :)
The "trail" in trail breaking is often misunderstood. It means "trail off" - so a strong bite then a steady trailing-off of brake pressure to the apex. This loads the front suspension through the corner until you can see the exit - so if you need to brake, you're front pre-loaded and it's less risky. I'm no expert but there are lots of great books on this :)
And to my understanding, that’s the key, you don’t apply the break in the turn, you still have some of it from your slowing down in the straight
@@oliviermagere trailbraking works if u have big entrz speed u brake hard in straight line and let off brakes slowly, more turning=less braking
Chris is a great guy, really enjoy his videos as he explains things very well.
I learned this the hard way. Should have watched this before shit hit the fan
same here dude
on the street... (not track)... if im going to hot into a turn - i think the most important thin is to everything smooth - if you break, also think of releasing it if speed it fine for turning and making the turn. I have seen people breaking so hard that the bike gets upright and they are leaving the road - breaking way to much - they would have the speed to pass the curve easily. Secound thing in my oppinion is: If breaking is done - to the amount you thin you can handle it - lean over the bike .... if you fall off the bike - i want to slide out of the corner and not leaving the corner upright into the fences because i havent leaned as much as possible and maybe i would have made the corner. short - if im too fast - break smooth as much needed - next is to lean over so you make the turn --- if everything doesn't work i want to slide and reduce speed on the leather before hitting the fances and not driving into the fances. Best thing is of course - dont ride as stupid on road that you dont have any safety margin left... :-)
anyone else hate stopping on a steep hill? love your vids and very useful experiments. subbed!
As long as you are in first gear whenever you come to a stop like you should be, it shouldn't be an issue. Then again there are some extremely steep hills in the world that anybody would probably be a little uncomfortable on.
A long time ago someone told me to gently use the back brake in a corner if you need a little more or to settle the bike, though I cannot remember having needing to all these years, guess I've just been lucky.
Very sensible, interesting , no ego upload. Would be nice to see this done with rear brake too and clutch out. I'll be doing an upload soon explaining why trail braking except in an emergency should be confined to track riding only. Thanks for this upload. Russ
Great Video!!
Thanks for honesty, and realistic review on a controversial topic😎
Nice one Chris. Brilliant test. We know this stuff, but seeing it tested and proved is awesome 👍
Just ride sane on public roads especially on curves,reserve the ferocity Ang aggressive riding to the race track,very helpful video sir,you got a new subscriber from the Philippines!👍👍👍
Brilliant video, thanks so much for making this. Might just save a few lives and broken bones.
Don't try this at home?
Well I would love to give this a go as part of advanced motorbike training.
I'm not suggesting that I'd reach 70mph going into a bend but practice like this in a controlled set up would be a great confidence booster and lesson in the capability of modern tyres to grip at the extreme.
To be able to repeat the experience time and again would reduce the level of panic in situations which often throws fine control out the window.
Off road and Wheelie school might be more obvious fun but exploring tyre grip in this way saves lives. I'd pay for that.
How about it training schools?
I came from an ebike background into motorcycling and yeah. Easy braking is pretty safe. Rear braking works too. Your engine is already doing it. Don't just jump on and do it though. Learn first. Learn feel. Practice tons in a controlled environment. Practice often. You'll need it in an oh shit eventually, but while you have the chance, take it.
Alternatively on a road you're unfamiliar with and entering a corner that suddenly tightens up. You should already be going slow enough to stop within the area of tarmac you can see in front of you. You'd be lucky if it was a car in front of you that had suddenly stopped god help you if it was road works or, as happened to me once, a landslide had completely filled the road.
@1066Rider A lot of what i've learnt over 40+ years of riding bikes, mostly over 750cc is almost totally down to riding at an appropriate speed for any condition. Not just road conditions but personal ones too. Car drivers think I'm bonkers when I tell them what I have to take into account, none of them ever consider the effects of September on the roads until I point out its Autumn especially if it's wet ! They never consider how a car might behave on wet leaves.......slightly different on two wheels. But then say Autumn or Winter to a biker and we all think the same thing and it's not what car drivers think !
This was great! I'd be curious to see how different it would be with engine braking vs. hitting the brakes.
You have very little control over engine braking. It's far inferior to trail braking with the front brakes.
Of course you should brake while turning - IF you start braking before going into the turn.
you can also use the rear brake to correct trajectory
@@Agussg23 wdym?
You can brake at any point of the turn even if you were not at the brakes, you just need to do it gentle if you leaned far
@@Agussg23 I don't think that's a good idea, the rear tyre loses alot of traction when cornering, rear braking can result in lowside or highside (if you regain traction abruptly) , so between the fact that the rear brake is very weak in any situation, plus the fact that you are cornering doesn't give you much braking force possibilities, it's almost more effective to use engine braking and less risky. The front tyre however has alot of weight and grip when braking, so you gain more grip when braking contrary to the rear tyre, and you can brake way harder thanks to that , you also lose cornering capability so there is still a limit to how much braking force you can apply before you enter the opposite lane or leave the road when going left. But that's true of any land vehicule, lock the wheels of a car and you are going straight out of the road you can no longer turn. Best combination I can think of is staying low on gears wen cornering to get high engine braking if needed, and front brake as much as you can, maybe help a bit with the rear brake, but combining it with engine brakd maybe isn't a good idea, you may lose too much grip. If you are more of a sporty rider and take out your body more than you lean the bike, the more the bike is straight and the more braking you can have, the less you move your body to the inside of a turn, the more you have to lean the bike and the less braking you can have, that's also a rule that can help you keep a safety net if needed, taking your body a bit out even if you are not on a sport bike.
@@OneRichMofo if you want to go tighter into the turn, then apply a small amount of rear brake, if you want to go wider, open up the throttle (gently)
Understanding and using counter-steering is one of the most important techniques, with trail braking next. If the corner tightens, you just have to learn to counter-steer in harder and the bike will handle it. If you chop the throttle or brake you increase the chance of a crash. You mention "California Super-bike School" - just watch his "Twist of the Wrist II by Keith Code". 1 and a 1/2 hours of how to take a corner. Some corny dialogue but it's compulsory viewing for any biker who wants to improve and stay safe.
Agreed, get counter-steering right in your head before testing your limits with braking in a corner, maybe master that 2nd if you still think it will help. Not sure why you would switch off the ABS to test this theory though when in the real world pretty much every bike has it by now. Maybe the same test with ABS and what the difference was would of been good. And while your at it maybe a caveat if the roads are wet.
Don't try this at home?
Well I would love to give this a go as part of advanced motorbike training.
I'm not suggesting that I'd reach 70mph going into a bend but practice like this in a controlled set up would be a great confidence booster and lesson in the capability of modern tyres to grip at the extreme.
To be able to repeat the experience time and again would reduce the level of panic in situations which often throws fine control out the window.
Off road and Wheelie school might be more obvious fun but exploring tyre grip in this way saves lives. I'd pay for that.
How about it training schools?
I watched the Keith Code film and I learned a huge amount. Heavy braking increases the contact patch of the tyre and results in different wheel speeds theoretically
thank u for taking ur time to show us what to do when the time comes :)
Nearly all bikes now come with ABS so hard hard can do it with ABS?
I did this when I was younger on my 06 FZ1 just making a left at a light and a car stopped in front of me grabbed the front brake. Not very hard at all and the bike went down faster than I could comprehend next thing I know I'm in the road with the bike on my left leg, crushed my left ankle, broke my left collar bone and broke my right hand. Was standing up in shock after I managed to get the bike off me trying to pick it up so I could drive off. Wasn't happening. Went down so hard I cracked the block and completely warped my handlebars sideways.
Where can we buy the anti-fall system ?
its probably custom made
I don't know about buying it, but Skid Bike offer training on similarly kitted bikes.
@@weevilinabox but i'm living in france... there is no one of them here..., even a same concept club are not exist
@@GeeksterzChannel There's at least one here in the UK, if you really keen to try it.
@@weevilinabox haha this summer i'm planning to come to London, can you give me the address please my bro, Lord bless you
Braking on corners is my nemesis, that’s how i’ve crashed most of the times but it also saved my ass a few times
We all do actually brake on bends or rather when travelling round curves in the road we cant do otherwise and if we are gentle on slowing with or without the need to use the brakes nothing un towards happens so its something that we would do every day under normal riding conditions. Our roads in the UK are full of curves, bends and then corners. What we must not do is instinctively slap on or grab the front brake as that braking overloads the the front tyre grip on the tarmac and that is then a slide off. Not nice. Many times one can use the back brake but gently and that will not only slow one down, slowly but it also helps one to tighten the curve and possibly make the bend safer. Further one can also use more counter steering and push slightly more on the lower handlebar just a little more and that may also assist us to make a bend and come out the other side.
However the speed going into any bends is of primary importance and many riders lose it by going in too fast and that could mean not coming out of it. As an example we are taking a bend at 40 mph so our good safe braking distance that we can see ahead is hopefully to the limit point which should be 120 ft or more. We then have to take into account our lean angle of say of 40 deg. from the vertical. That, basically for ease of calculation means that we are already using up some 40% of our grip level between the front tyre and the tarmac. That means that we no longer have 100% of our original braking capacity but its now limited to only 60%. If we exceed that 60% we will more than likely lose the front tyre grip level as we are pushing it over the 100% level. So we lose our front wheel grip and off we come.
If we go back to our safe stopping distance as being that 120 ft. its not actually. That distance is for a car on a dry and straight road and we are on a motorcycle and leant over on a bend and with only some 60 % of our braking capacity left so that means that even if we can use all of what we have in terms of braking on that bend we will exceed that safe stopping distance of 120 ft. and maybe with moire gradual slowing and stop in 150 ft or more. That means that we have run past the 120 ft safe stopping space we had originally and have ended up running round that corner into whatever. we don't know. .
So it beholds us to actually slow even more on bends , always presume or assume a hazard such as a tightening radius or stopped vehicle, horse etc. then if we are required to stop suddenly or even gradually we can stop without running out of road and neve ever grab the brakes
"Don't surprise the brakes". All the best, John
Need front and back in perfect balance - without any skidding. To get a feel for this try experimenting on flat dirt surface slightly cornering gently braking front and back - the bike is controllable if the balance is across both - ease on until feel a hint of sliding then regulate one or other. Translate this feel you learn to a grippier bitumen surface.
Need to practice to have been in situation before. If really too hot in, stopping in a straight line slows ten times better if possible - to slow aggressively before hitting anything. Can almost lock the front if straight on level ground.
As new uk direct access rider at a sensible 40yrs this is the very reason a am thinking about a bike with cornering ABS.
In my opinion all big bikes aimed at new riders should have it as a safety margin for inexperience
I know 'load the tire before you work the tire' is the saying, but is that the full story? I'm wondering if the front fork is the main culprit and not actually the rubber not being able to grip fast. Braking fast will also rebound the fork fast which will momentarily lift the rubber up and make your contact patch really tiny, so I wonder if that is the issue more so than the actual rubber physically needing time to grip.
Great video, good information and perfect length - not too rabbly! Would be great to see more of Chris. Maybe some videos on controlling front wheel lift or rear wheel spin during a launch?
How about rear slides?!
What about using the back break instead?
I use the back to scrub small amounts of speed off without unsettling the bike, but you won't get the power you would from the front. John
@@bennettsbikesocial For better or for worse this is my typical panic response to finding myself in a corner too hot. Scrub speed with the rear and tighten my line as much as possible.
The only time I've come across an unexpected obstacle I managed to aim for the centreline, stand the bike up, "progressively" loading up the brakes all the while and came to a halt between the rear door of the stopped car and the front tyre of a lorry.
Lost a foot peg to the cars rear bumper, bruised my foot, had to check my underpants, vowed to never put myself in that position again and decided to do some serious practice with my braking technique.
@@eoinkenny3188 Glad you're okay! The best advice is of course to not go any faster than you can see to be clear, but understanding how the bike reacts is really helpful. Cheers!
Front brake's braking force is typically around 70-80%, but it can go as high as 100%
Rear brake is not as precise and it is easier to lock up the rear wheel than the front.
Front brake force bike back to upright position where the rear make it to lean more, but things can change quickly if you lock up a wheel (often a crash).
When a rear wheel gets grip again it can lead to a high side.
When a front wheel gets grip again it usually wobble a bit.
Thia is for advanced riders (racer's stuff). How about only using only the rear brake, even not that fast. Can you make a video tackling the proper way of that? Not all people are confident enough of touching the front brake on turns and curves.
applying only rear brake straighten up the bike and it takes you out of the bend i wouldnt recomended it. Anyway why you dont try it for yourself. On hot summer day when tyres have good temperature and on dry road just gently press rear brake in small leaning angle in the bend . Why you need advice from others when its easy find out for yourself
Your scenario is exactly what happened to me! I went to the peak district and was surprised by a hairpin, I had already been braking as I came down the hill to the bend and used my rear brake (Like slow manoeuvring) while taking the turn... it slammed me and broke my ankle. Still recovering
I always ride with a GPS mounted on my dash. Even if don't need turn by turn navigation. That way I can always see what the next turn is going to be like and never get surprised.
Don't trust it 100% though, please! Observation is the most important thing!
I sometimes use the front brake in a corner. No problem at all as long you do it smooth and soft. When you hit the brake hard the bike will want to go straight and upright and you will have a problem.
Really great advice and well presented
Great video, please put more tests like this.
Started riding in just a month, when i feel the corner is too sharp i usually use the rear brake and verry little input into the front. I don't know if its good or bad technique. Never had a problem with it. I am riding a cruiser by the way.
You should've also tested what it would be like if you have ABS on just to see the difference
I've never lost a bike on a corner but I've never had a sports bike. Good information though. I'm not saying I never had to brake on a bend but I'm probably not going as fast as a sports bike which encourage speed.
One corner was hard braking before I got into the corner and realised it was a 90° right turn on a Yorkshire country road with other tight corners..
would cornering ABS help in a situation like this, so you don't fall?
Nice video just what I was looking for
Excelent video and Chris is as always a trooper and a great host.
What about braking also rear brake in a corner? Is it a good idea?
Great public service video! Thank you!
Super good advice! Thenk you.
Great video!!
Whilst on a road in the UK we are taught to use the limit point for our speed around any curve or bend. However once at that maximum cornering speed and needing to brake if we were on a dry road and going straight we could brake quite hard and in that distance to be seen but whilst leant over and on a bend with already using some grip due to speed and lean angle some of our braking capacity is lost and if we can only use some 60 to 70% of our braking capacity how much further would we need to see past that limit point [ say being a mere 120 ft ahead ] in order to come to come to a stop?.
Also in the wet we are told to allow twice our dry braking distances on a wet road so if we can see the limit point is say 120 ft away and we are doing 40 mph., that's a braking distance on a straight line and in the dry, But just how much distance do we need and can we stop in in order to brake in the wet from that 40 mph with only 120ft of seeing distance. how much further would we need to travel in order to come to a stop?
Can anyone hazard a guess. I cant but I know that it will take quite a few feet or metres of further travel to be able to stop and it will be well past the so called safe limit point. So it will bring into question all that we know about stopping distances and about the taking of bends and speeds relevant to the limit point.
Its clear to me that if you brake gently all the way into the turn then provided the road surface has good grip you can use more braking force than you thought possible.
Now THAT was some good information !!!👍👍
exactly the type of video i was looking for
What if you drag the rear brake very gently on dry track while entering the turn? I find it useful. Slows down the bike ever so slightly but gives more confidence
just use the front, way more control on that brake. I have about 10k kilometers on me as a rider and i can do some light to medium trail braking, i'm sure experienced people can do better. Specially if you ride the track
I think it depends on the bike. Not every bike comes with dual front brake. When you're making hard stop both front and rear is needed.otherwise they'd just stop adding rear brake on all bikes
@@cripticdestiny i mean use the front for trail braking. Even if it's single disc, it's way bigger than the rear.
Nice tip man
What I thought was going to be a lesson in how to suck eggs actually turned out to be very interesting, thanks.
What percentage would you use back and front brakes during this situation? 50-50.
Welp my elbow and knee is **up rn after I use front brake on road that mixed with some kinda sand and rock it just slip when I turn just a little and thx you for making this video it help me alot.. 👍👍
it would be cool if there was a place that could easily hook these rigs up to peoples personal bikes so they can get a real feel for braking in a corner. something like a msf course but on your own bike so you can have more control and confidence.
Yes, you should absolutely use the front brake when going into corners at speed. It's called trail braking, and I have been doing it on the streets of this country for over 50 years without a single issue.
Very educational, thanks for this. Do wish you talked about the back brake aswell though
The MT09 has lean angle ABS. If you had left that switched on, would you have been able to brake hard in the turn with impunity?
Thanks. Very useful bit of advice.
I always wondered what would happen if you apply maximum brake while cornering, but with ABS. Can your front wheel slip lateraly, or does ABS prevent that?
If you have cornering ABS maybe.
if you get your front tire warm with a few braking sessions, I haven't ever had an issue using 30-50% front brakes around 45-40 deg lean. That's on some michelin pilot powers or RS's though. I could only use about 10% brake pressure on old Dunlop qualifiers before they turned in. It would be amazing to use that machine though. Can I have a go?
My bike didn't had ABS, I was on a very small local turn. I have passion pro 2020 bs6. it's brakes are good enough on grippy and straight roads. Today I was running it and suddenly a girl with a bicycle came in my way on the turn. Even though I could easily control my bike. even my bike was slow. but I got my focus on girl and not on my hand on the brake. I accidentally tightened the front disk-brake and tyre got slipped and my left hand got a wound and my leg also. do you know what next. she stopped in her way. and thought of helping me but I simply stood up my self and Took my bike, she left. I was safe but My bike got a very small bend in its handle bar and some scratches on the wiser and headlight. That wound on bike broke my heart I am here learning more about braking
Thank you for making this video
Yep, smoothness is key. I think the best way to enter a road turn is with engine break, you can downshift at mid turn, just take care of clutch.
Having a good rear break technique is great for stabilizing the bike. Street filtering is way safe while rear brake is lightly engaged. Just like WSBK riders do at turn exit.
Actually really useful video 👍
osm... i always wanted to know this answer. thank q bro
Very good information