Nice work on a very challenging tool. That back clearance is essential to cutting that thread. Enjoyed very much, cheers and looking forward to next step!
Well done! Making taps/tools are some of the very best videos..... whether standard or tandem, or even if you've filmed similar builds in the past: Don't hesitate to show us again! Thanks for another great video!
The ol' two stage tap... I dislike making those, with a passion! I'm stunned you didn't just order some O1 barstock or whatever, rather than using 1080.
For a tool thats going to be used a few times probably why spend the money and time when you have something right in your garage already? And going the 01 step means you need to heat treat it properly, which is more involved if you want to get any benefit.
If you're going to make them you might as well make the ones that will tear a hole in your finances...good job. I remember when I was a kid stripping a bolt thread on my bike and because I couldnt find anything else to do I used another bolt the right size and filed flutes into it. It worked and made it so I could ride my bike but it only lasted the one go lol. thanks for sharing, I'm interested to see what youre cross slide is going to be like with this thread.
you should build a long taper attachment for your lathe. my 14.5"x36" sundstrand lathe has one and its worth its weight in gold, makes long tapers so nice to do and you can cut them with power feed. I believe this old tony built one for one of his lathes years ago.
Interesting and informative video as always. I may need to try this for my own top slide screw. Did I miss seeing a cherry-red color during the first heat treatment step in your video? Is the hardness of the business end as expected? (Actually it would probably cut a number of holes in bronze without heat treatment at all now that I think about it. . .) Thanks for posting.
Did you check to see if there are any insert with the correct profile for the threading? As far as the flexing how bout using a follow rest assuming you have one. I like what you are doing. I often thought doing the same thing to my mini lathe. KOKO!
Awesome work, dude! Nicely done! 😃 But, you know... I think about buying a tap and die like that, but to cut wooden threads. For woodworking vises and such. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
30°? Is that a metricism? Acme threads use a 29° angle. When you cut the flutes with a square end mill, if you go slightly past center, you will put some positive rake angle on the cutting edge.
I like to ask your 4 jaw chuck is bolt to the lathe with 3 bolt or four? I have lathe and i need independent 4 jaw my late chuck i bolt with 3 bolt let me know what model of you 4 jaw chuck is and where you ordered from thanks
Question. You seem to be using Trapezoidal and Acme interchangeably. Is that a All Acme threads are Trapezoidal, but not all Trapezoidal taps are Acme thing? Or are you changing from Acme to Trapezoidal because there is some benefit? I have no experience in this area other than researching what Inserts to buy on AliExpress, and that left me feeling that they were significantly different...
Welll acme is trapezoidal in form. But difference with euro trapezoidal and usa acme is 1 degree in the angle. So uhh see if they tell you the dimensions and angle and good luck
Acme is just the imperial version trapezoidal thread, except its 29 degrees. A lot of people just call them all Acme or metric acme since it is a bit of a pain to say trapezoidal thread every time.
Honest question and I mean no offense: why the determination to make your taps 4 flute opposed to a 3 or 6 ??? (I'm sure a viewer will have the answer but I ask that our host provide the reasoning) Thank you! ps that finger is looking back to normal, you heal fast!
For through holes like this, a 2 or 3 flute tap should be superior. More flutes only help with bottoming because of the reduced chip load per tooth, and 4 flute taps are easier to square up by hand, but I’m bad at it either way so I always use a tap follower when I need a straight thread.
@@ourtube4266 That is the exact reasoning for me wanting his thoughts on the matter. I've got speculations but I'm not the one making the tool so this is a good learning op.
My copy of the machinery’s handbook is a bit vague on whether 3 or 4 flute is better. But it lists your the standards for both, but generally the 3 flute will require a larger endmill to make larger flutes and if you follow their method, the 3 flute ends up being weaker than the 4.
@@artisanmakes So from what I have gleaned over the decades is 4 is better for free hand as it allows better squaring and chip ejection. 2 flute is really strong and ideal in mill/lathe tool applications... so good for power tapping. The advantage of 3 flute is consistency, especially in depth of your root without deforming the tail of your pitch cut. Have you signed up on practical machinist website? There is an amazing wealth of knowledge there that makes the handbook look like it was written by children. Granted it is a forum sure, but it is pretty well peer regulated. I am really enjoying the adventure you are taking making your own taps, even this old dog is learning from a younger one! Thanks for the series. I cant wait for the next installment, mate.
as a time served engineer / gear cutter / fitter / turner / tool maker . never try this . this is the wrong way to make taps . [ if you know you know ] honest this plank is stupid as hell .
As a time served engineer, I've usually found that the method that works with the tooling you have is the best way, and I've seen some fantastic work done with the most basic tooling possible.
Nice work on a very challenging tool. That back clearance is essential to cutting that thread. Enjoyed very much, cheers and looking forward to next step!
When I made my first tap I was really shocked at how much of a difference that tiny amount of back clearance makes to the cutting tool.
That looks nice, can't wait for the second part. Thanks 👍💪✌
Well done! Making taps/tools are some of the very best videos..... whether standard or tandem, or even if you've filmed similar builds in the past: Don't hesitate to show us again!
Thanks for another great video!
Glad to see you back in the shop. Carry on!
The ol' two stage tap... I dislike making those, with a passion! I'm stunned you didn't just order some O1 barstock or whatever, rather than using 1080.
Can you please explain to a relative nube in steel selection, how that would be the better option?
For a tool thats going to be used a few times probably why spend the money and time when you have something right in your garage already?
And going the 01 step means you need to heat treat it properly, which is more involved if you want to get any benefit.
@@boots7859 Ty.
Nice take on a tap build. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Great to see you back buddy!
Well done captain, difficult tool to make.
Thanks for making great content, hope your hand is all better
Happy days mate, nice and awkward job eh, well done and thanks for bringing us along 👍
If you're going to make them you might as well make the ones that will tear a hole in your finances...good job.
I remember when I was a kid stripping a bolt thread on my bike and because I couldnt find anything else to do I used another bolt the right size and filed flutes into it. It worked and made it so I could ride my bike but it only lasted the one go lol.
thanks for sharing,
I'm interested to see what youre cross slide is going to be like with this thread.
I really like the way you just go for it. And a nice result.
Very interesting. Nice work sir
I'm going to make a habit out of calling you This Young Tony.
Thats fonking good!
There is only one Tony, and he's old. 😉
@@_Jester_ not any more
Man does that fit or what. Perfect!
nice work sir!
Learnt something again
Phaquapa!!😶 That was a lot more of a challenge than I thought it would be!!😱
42!!!!! Woooo hooooooo. Talk about timing!!!!
Great job, 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Shhhhhhhhhh don’t say that ACME word out loud! This old Tony will hear it!
peace be upon you sir from me and some people out there really doing a good job i think
Good job.
you should build a long taper attachment for your lathe. my 14.5"x36" sundstrand lathe has one and its worth its weight in gold, makes long tapers so nice to do and you can cut them with power feed. I believe this old tony built one for one of his lathes years ago.
Interesting and informative video as always. I may need to try this for my own top slide screw. Did I miss seeing a cherry-red color during the first heat treatment step in your video? Is the hardness of the business end as expected? (Actually it would probably cut a number of holes in bronze without heat treatment at all now that I think about it. . .) Thanks for posting.
Did you check to see if there are any insert with the correct profile for the threading? As far as the flexing how bout using a follow rest assuming you have one. I like what you are doing. I often thought doing the same thing to my mini lathe. KOKO!
Awesome work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
But, you know... I think about buying a tap and die like that, but to cut wooden threads. For woodworking vises and such.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice
A lathe modification it looks like you could use is a foot brake to stop the spindle when threading.
Ya finger is looking better bro.
"Over The Top"!
3:22 1080 steel? But is it progressive or interlaced?
30°? Is that a metricism? Acme threads use a 29° angle.
When you cut the flutes with a square end mill, if you go slightly past center, you will put some positive rake angle on the cutting edge.
Yeah metric is 30.
Thank you for sharing. On your Ryobi sander what grit disc do you use/recommend for profiling the HSS cutting bit?
I’m still using the one that originally came with it. I think it’s 80 grit
Very interesting thank you. Your mates don't call you "Two Torches Artisan" by any chance do they?
I like to ask your 4 jaw chuck is bolt to the lathe with 3 bolt or four? I have lathe and i need independent 4 jaw my late chuck i bolt with 3 bolt let me know what model of you 4 jaw chuck is and where you ordered from thanks
Hows the modeling career going?
Question. You seem to be using Trapezoidal and Acme interchangeably. Is that a All Acme threads are Trapezoidal, but not all Trapezoidal taps are Acme thing? Or are you changing from Acme to Trapezoidal because there is some benefit? I have no experience in this area other than researching what Inserts to buy on AliExpress, and that left me feeling that they were significantly different...
Welll acme is trapezoidal in form. But difference with euro trapezoidal and usa acme is 1 degree in the angle.
So uhh see if they tell you the dimensions and angle and good luck
@@lassikinnunen Ty.
Acme is just the imperial version trapezoidal thread, except its 29 degrees. A lot of people just call them all Acme or metric acme since it is a bit of a pain to say trapezoidal thread every time.
@@artisanmakes Ty.
That 1 start review on the tandem tap tho
Edit: it's two reviews with 1 starr??
Had it been a shorter tap, I wonder if those shallow teeth would've worked! Well done though!
👍
Wouldn't a ball screw work well here?
Screw that!🤣
how did you measure the threads while cutting it ? Did you use 3 wire method ?
That was the only way to measure it once the burrs were kicked up by the cutting tool
👍🏻
I've never understood why they need the middle relieved. That always seems to be where they break anyways.
For me it’s just an easy way of knowing where to stop cutting the first set of threads
@@artisanmakes yeah but you're doing it by hand, on a manual lathe. The professionally made one's no doubt come off a CNC lathe.
Honest question and I mean no offense: why the determination to make your taps 4 flute opposed to a 3 or 6 ??? (I'm sure a viewer will have the answer but I ask that our host provide the reasoning)
Thank you!
ps that finger is looking back to normal, you heal fast!
For through holes like this, a 2 or 3 flute tap should be superior. More flutes only help with bottoming because of the reduced chip load per tooth, and 4 flute taps are easier to square up by hand, but I’m bad at it either way so I always use a tap follower when I need a straight thread.
@@ourtube4266 That is the exact reasoning for me wanting his thoughts on the matter. I've got speculations but I'm not the one making the tool so this is a good learning op.
My copy of the machinery’s handbook is a bit vague on whether 3 or 4 flute is better. But it lists your the standards for both, but generally the 3 flute will require a larger endmill to make larger flutes and if you follow their method, the 3 flute ends up being weaker than the 4.
@@artisanmakes So from what I have gleaned over the decades is 4 is better for free hand as it allows better squaring and chip ejection. 2 flute is really strong and ideal in mill/lathe tool applications... so good for power tapping. The advantage of 3 flute is consistency, especially in depth of your root without deforming the tail of your pitch cut.
Have you signed up on practical machinist website? There is an amazing wealth of knowledge there that makes the handbook look like it was written by children. Granted it is a forum sure, but it is pretty well peer regulated. I am really enjoying the adventure you are taking making your own taps, even this old dog is learning from a younger one! Thanks for the series. I cant wait for the next installment, mate.
tu peux retailler des plaquettes carbure avec des petits disques diamantés.
For the algorithm.
When you said aluminium, all the Americans watching said, "NO, that's not how you say it".
And they are all wrong, because that's how he DOES say it ! ( As do I ).
That is EXACTLY how that word is pronounced.
Are we still making that lame comment in 2024?
as a time served engineer / gear cutter / fitter / turner / tool maker .
never try this . this is the wrong way to make taps .
[ if you know you know ]
honest this plank is stupid as hell .
It’s the method laid out in the machinery’s and hand fitters handbook, minus the hooked cutting edge. If you want to disagree with that method….. okay
Bet you watched it all.
As a time served engineer, I've usually found that the method that works with the tooling you have is the best way, and I've seen some fantastic work done with the most basic tooling possible.
@colinvanful I can’t figure out what you’re trying to accomplish with such an incomplete and rude comment. How does it help anyone? Did it help you?
Brandon over at @InheritanceMachining done one, but had some problems with his "Simple Repair"
1st rule: don't try to straighten a bent, hardened lead screw with a hydraulic press. 😅
Oh no! Blondihacks interrupted my lawn mowing already today, and now you too!
Quinn dropped a video too? Darn, I was also about to go mow my lawn. Guess that'll have to wait...
:)