Like a lot of us, he doesn't have a powered saw to do that kind of work. I normally do a bunch until my arms are tired, tame a break, come for more. Really slows the progress down!
You are the only person I know that uses a self centering 4 jaw... I think the whole reason nobody uses that is exactly what you encountered: if the stock isn't completely round, you're actually only clamping with two jaws. That is not very rigid.
Sleek build, came out really nice! And good choice not going with ball bearings on that tiny steady rest. For copper and aluminium you need quite a bit of widht on those (the ones on big lathes usually come with a radius on em too which can cause all sorts of funky problems on soft parts that are heavy as frig...) which you can't get from too small of a diameter, which you'd had to use here since the thing is rather tiny. But those Brass Bushings should be up to most stuff with a drop of oil or two as long as the material riding on em isn't too scuffed up.
18:16 It is hard to tell for certain where your welding ground clamp is, but when a part is mounted in a machine like that it should be on the part itself. Otherwise current will be flowing through the spindle bearings and possibly arcing across any tiny gaps there.
He has the ground clamp on the bed rails just ahead of the tail stock, but I agree that this is bad practice as there is a possibility that electricity, trying to find the lowest resistance circuit, could go through hidden bearing surfaces and cause damage. In this case the risk to the spindle is low as he welded to the base block first, but there could have been some arcing at the ground clamp end or under the base block, causing some scarring to the lathe bed ways, but at least those are easily dealt with using a stone.. Same thing applies when welding on a vise as he does in earlier on: best to clamp directly on the part or at least on the jaw/body of the vise. Many people clamp on the handle or the lead screw ball and then they wonder why their vise screw is starting to get so crunchy, because in this case, the current most certainly does flow through the lead screw and nut before hitting the body and finally the part being welded...
Well that ought to do it. Your steady is about three times as heavy as needed, but it is rather hard to hollow out cross sections like big production machines have, ha ha. Nice work.
I have an idea for if you ever decide to put ball bearings in it maybe you could Machine a sleeve to fir snuggly over the bearings out of bronze or something soft!. Great video though!
Looks like a nice completed project. Consider adding labels for sped up video. Some are obvious, but when it appears to be at normal speed, your speeds and feeds seem to be too fast. I would think that some of the problems you encountered here could have been eliminated by slowing down the feeds and speeds. Looks like RPM is way too fast on both machines. Thanks
I'd recomend a scissors type knurling tool and WAY less rpm! These knurls haven't seen enough pressure and therefor are almost non present. You can do them in more than one step, as the wheels will fin their groove again, once they are formed propperly. But with this small lathe and these poor press-on knurling tools, you won't be able to achieve any good result, especially with small diametres and coarse knurls. I also feel high rpms are often a problem here, causing chatter, brocken, or cooked out tools.
It often is the case making things yourself could be much more expensive either immediately or in the long run. Every time you need a bolt do you get a piece of barstock or do you go and buy one.
@@chauvinemmonsyes but a lot of the time the "cheap" (as in actually affordable) stuff is usually pretty shoddily made and it's really easy to get pissed off at something you bought, but if you made it yourself you kinda accept it as is/fix it. Plus not everything in life is about money, if you enjoy machining stuff you might as well do it for the enjoyment of doing it.
For the leadscrew holders, why not thread or make them a press fit into those holes in the ring, have them go most or all of the way through. No welding needed and easier to modify in the future if needed
Nice work mate, well done. If I could offer you some advice it would be to change your welding from a drag to a push with a bit more heat or less feed and no wiggle. Try it out on some scrap and see how you go. Also a light dust of anti spatter spray makes the world of difference.
Fantastic job! Lot of work but that turned out very well. As I watched I was slightly concerned that the hacksaw wouldn't make an appearance but alas, I wasn't disappointed. Time to head to my shop and create something.
Nice. You can get a lot of work done on big things if you get creative with these small machine tools. It would be nice to have a full machine shop with big monster tools, but not everyone has room for that.
Great project! If you can get Argon as well as the gas mix, you might want to try TIG. Way easier to do detail work with TIG than MIG, and it's really pretty simple with mild steel. A DC TIG will do it, and you don't really need HF start. It's also easy for stainless as well. I think you'd like it because you're detail/precision oriented, and it would save you quite a bit of cleanup. With an AC TIG and HF you can also do aluminum, but I won't kid you that that's an easy process to master.
I'm sure you've heard this a lot by now but a 3 phase motor with a vfd for the lathe would help a lot with parts like this large ring to run it at a slower speed. It would likely stop you burning through inserts on these kinds of parts by running at a more reasonable speed
way better than the 9x20 version which looks like a skeleton in comparison next channel acquisition: TIG welder, the primary benefit part cosmetics rather than structural
I must of missed something.. on mine the shaft of the screw is reduced diameter where it goes through the cap. When I take my adjusting knobs off the screws can then be removed from the frame towards the centre. Like the arrangement of an auto scissor jack. Just a different configuration.
@@glennwright9747 His lead screws are inserted into the mechanism from outside the ring, so something is needed to keep them in. If he had designed it so that the lead screws were inserted from inside the ring, then just the knob would be sufficient to retain them.
I really like this design and would like to make a similar version. From watching the video, I could not determine the size of things very well. Can you indicate the diameter of the fingers and also the width and diameter of the ring that supports the fingers. Thanks.
My 2 cents. Make the T-bolt "too big" Or even better as a parallelogram (skewed rektangel) Then it won't swiwel around in the grove, when you tighten it.
This wa awesome and the steady rest looks great! later you might want to add some rubber on the front of it so that shavings don't get between the guides and the work piece. Or keep a roll of duct tape next to it so you can tape it off. Just a tip! Check out Cutting Edge Engineering and how he does it with his big steady rest, I use his tips and even after a year of using my steady rest it's still in perfect condition and I don't have to worry about it scratching my pieces.
We can't exactly tell where your ground clamp was when welding on the lathe but just in case, when you do, its best practice to place the ground clamp directly on the part you're welding, otherwise you could end up running current through your headstock bearings and gears, which could damage bearings, gears, or ways as well as magnetize them which will attract wear products and cause excessive wear.
DOH!🤪 I thought you would have made a slot and cross hole in the end to take a bearing mounted bronze wheel on a threaded bronze axle; a smooth rolling surface rather than a non-rolling, sliding surface. But that's just my humble opinion. Also, it seemed like your weldup was done in reverse of what I may have done.😊
Buddy as a welder it pained me to see you mig over that beautifully machined part I would kill to get parts prepared that nicely to run a Tig weld over I am not complaining about your welds just the process used
Very very cool my friend! Hope you will consider a website or other online delivery tool to offer plans for your well thought out and excellent projects!
You can leave a short stick out on the stock, face the stock, drill a center, turn between centers, then indicate in with less stick out and drill/bore?
Could have done captive roller bearings with a machined brass cladding. Ball bearings with the softness of brass, and no galling on metals the brass could meld to.
@@artisanmakes Could always store it away for a later upgrade. To be fair, your steady rest seemed more like a 'I need it to work how I want it now' kind of build, rather than something you had the luxury of planning out the way you'd have probably liked. I think it would probably be a relatively stress-free alteration when you do decide to do it, too, so there's that, but then again I'm no machinist. I would, however, recommend some cylindrical or tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings. I do know they are better for high side-loading applications.
Hay what was the end mill you were using to face stuff in the beginning I’ve it definitely didn’t look like a fly cutter or a face mill but yeah I’m super curious
Are you talking about the end-mill with the rough sides, that he used to make the V-block? That's a roughing end-mill, used for removing large amounts of material without a care for surface finish. The face mill that he used to face the ring is one that he made in a previous video.
I often have to work with round hollow stock and no the hole isn't round and not the same diameter over the part length it never is. You would do much better with first cleaning up the inside hole and then clamping into it to clean the outside
17:00 For anyone trying this, It is very hard on the mill. Thake light cuts, very light. I have a video on my channel doing this with a fly cutter on a full size mill, shook it to death.
I don't typically comment on videos. But you spent all that time getting a beautiful finish on all those intricate parts, And then proceeded to cook the ever loving snot out of them with that mig. And i know it shouldn't, but that really bothered me man.
@@artisanmakes thanks for the reply I have the sx2.7L and the calculations I was using was telling me 350rpm for hardened steel but it seemed really slow ill give your speed ago and see how that goes
Nice build, I did one very similar a few years for a Atlas 6" lathe that I have. One thing that I recommend is to place tape or cardboard on the side you are machining on to keep the chips out, if they get in there they will damage the surface and cause early wear to form as well as causing it to want to bind the piece or chew away the brass surfaces so the piece becomes loose.
Great result! 👍 I have a small suggestion for the lower T-nut. If you mill or grind the 2 sides of the top of the oval piece, it will make a small raised square area maybe 1.5mm or 2mm high on top of the oval piece. Then, you can still insert the nut into the lathe bed just as easily, but when you tighten the thread the raised square will lift up and will "lock" into the space between the lathe bed. Then you wont have to worry about the oval piece rotating when you tighten the thread.
@@artisanmakesi can add to this, if you make it a rhomboid shape with a radius on the dull corners itll lock into place without needing to be pulled up. Thats whats being sold for extruded aluminuim too
Hi I think that maybe you should try dcgt inserts for boring because they have a geometry with sharp cutting edge. This might decrease the cutting force and improve a surface finish.
I've yet to see you do anything that you should be embarrassed about. I started at metalwork when I was 12 ( yes we were trusted with a lathe and forgework at that age) I'm now 68 and it pleases me no end to see a young chap like yourself having both the interest and ability in the field. Cheers matey and long may you run.
inserts are not good on interrupted cuts, i rather use speed steel, actually i had a bigger lathe than yours and i dont like to use inserts or widea, they are to rough for small lathe, speed steel bits are a lot more forgiving
This is definitely up there as one of your better builds. It looks head and shoulders over the OEM part
Cheers
If you hack sawed that 25mm steel bar and didn't show it you did yourself a great disservice!
Agreed. Unsubscribing.
Like a lot of us, he doesn't have a powered saw to do that kind of work. I normally do a bunch until my arms are tired, tame a break, come for more. Really slows the progress down!
I have one of those portable bandsaws converted to a little table saw. But for most cuts, I still like the manual workout.
He used a grinder. You can tell from the the end in shot just before he cleans it up with the mill
Push mig drag stick
bloody good shit mate!! keep up the great work!! no excuses needed when your working with what you got
You are the only person I know that uses a self centering 4 jaw... I think the whole reason nobody uses that is exactly what you encountered: if the stock isn't completely round, you're actually only clamping with two jaws. That is not very rigid.
Brilliant! Love watching your work. Congrats on a great build.
Sleek build, came out really nice! And good choice not going with ball bearings on that tiny steady rest. For copper and aluminium you need quite a bit of widht on those (the ones on big lathes usually come with a radius on em too which can cause all sorts of funky problems on soft parts that are heavy as frig...) which you can't get from too small of a diameter, which you'd had to use here since the thing is rather tiny. But those Brass Bushings should be up to most stuff with a drop of oil or two as long as the material riding on em isn't too scuffed up.
Gday, the steady turned out good, certainly a ton better then the factory steady, great job, cheers
Cheers matty
That was really well done. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
The cut from the parting tool to the hacksaw audio made me chuckle.
18:16 It is hard to tell for certain where your welding ground clamp is, but when a part is mounted in a machine like that it should be on the part itself. Otherwise current will be flowing through the spindle bearings and possibly arcing across any tiny gaps there.
He has the ground clamp on the bed rails just ahead of the tail stock, but I agree that this is bad practice as there is a possibility that electricity, trying to find the lowest resistance circuit, could go through hidden bearing surfaces and cause damage. In this case the risk to the spindle is low as he welded to the base block first, but there could have been some arcing at the ground clamp end or under the base block, causing some scarring to the lathe bed ways, but at least those are easily dealt with using a stone.. Same thing applies when welding on a vise as he does in earlier on: best to clamp directly on the part or at least on the jaw/body of the vise. Many people clamp on the handle or the lead screw ball and then they wonder why their vise screw is starting to get so crunchy, because in this case, the current most certainly does flow through the lead screw and nut before hitting the body and finally the part being welded...
Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t!!
I would consider cutting the ends of the tee nut flanges down just enough so that they catch the bed and won't rotate unless dropped further down.
Another thing of beauty.
Have used the oem steady.
Does work but me thinks yours is bound to be a step up. Good stuff bloke .
Nice project. It's your narration that makes your videos enjoyable.
Well that ought to do it. Your steady is about three times as heavy as needed, but it is rather hard to hollow out cross sections like big production machines have, ha ha. Nice work.
The weight is good for damping noise /harshness /vibration
I have an idea for if you ever decide to put ball bearings in it maybe you could Machine a sleeve to fir snuggly over the bearings out of bronze or something soft!. Great video though!
Looks like a nice completed project. Consider adding labels for sped up video. Some are obvious, but when it appears to be at normal speed, your speeds and feeds seem to be too fast. I would think that some of the problems you encountered here could have been eliminated by slowing down the feeds and speeds. Looks like RPM is way too fast on both machines. Thanks
I've found the same on my projects - never assume stock is round or flat or to nominal size. It bites us every time.
I’m so glad I subscribed to this channel
I tell you what! I am impressed with the amount of use you are making of that milling tool you made a few videos ago.
Nice build, mate. You are getting better and better.
Great build! I wish I had one for my Sieg
I'd recomend a scissors type knurling tool and WAY less rpm! These knurls haven't seen enough pressure and therefor are almost non present. You can do them in more than one step, as the wheels will fin their groove again, once they are formed propperly. But with this small lathe and these poor press-on knurling tools, you won't be able to achieve any good result, especially with small diametres and coarse knurls.
I also feel high rpms are often a problem here, causing chatter, brocken, or cooked out tools.
Oh boy that's fancy.
Awesome build
Two axioms I noticed that you work with.
'Why buy what I can build"
" Do the best with what you have"
A true Machinist.
It often is the case making things yourself could be much more expensive either immediately or in the long run.
Every time you need a bolt do you get a piece of barstock or do you go and buy one.
@@chauvinemmonsyes but a lot of the time the "cheap" (as in actually affordable) stuff is usually pretty shoddily made and it's really easy to get pissed off at something you bought, but if you made it yourself you kinda accept it as is/fix it. Plus not everything in life is about money, if you enjoy machining stuff you might as well do it for the enjoyment of doing it.
For the leadscrew holders, why not thread or make them a press fit into those holes in the ring, have them go most or all of the way through. No welding needed and easier to modify in the future if needed
You can, I’m sure that would work, just a different way doing doing the same thing I guess
Nice work mate, well done. If I could offer you some advice it would be to change your welding from a drag to a push with a bit more heat or less feed and no wiggle. Try it out on some scrap and see how you go. Also a light dust of anti spatter spray makes the world of difference.
Fantastic effort well done.
Thankyou
Fantastic job! Lot of work but that turned out very well.
As I watched I was slightly concerned that the hacksaw wouldn't make an appearance but alas, I wasn't disappointed.
Time to head to my shop and create something.
Nhìn máy móc mà phát mê
Beautiful work!
Wow. I nerf one of them for my 13" clausing metosa c1330s. I was planning on making myself. Yours turned out extremely well.
Nice. You can get a lot of work done on big things if you get creative with these small machine tools. It would be nice to have a full machine shop with big monster tools, but not everyone has room for that.
Greetings from Italy 👍
Well done. 👍👍👍👍👍
Great project! If you can get Argon as well as the gas mix, you might want to try TIG. Way easier to do detail work with TIG than MIG, and it's really pretty simple with mild steel. A DC TIG will do it, and you don't really need HF start. It's also easy for stainless as well. I think you'd like it because you're detail/precision oriented, and it would save you quite a bit of cleanup. With an AC TIG and HF you can also do aluminum, but I won't kid you that that's an easy process to master.
Great video, how about making your self a bandsaw.
Breacks my heart seeing you cut things with hand held saw.
I'm sure you've heard this a lot by now but a 3 phase motor with a vfd for the lathe would help a lot with parts like this large ring to run it at a slower speed. It would likely stop you burning through inserts on these kinds of parts by running at a more reasonable speed
Yea I have heard that a lot. Maybe one day :)
Good solid steady, for mig welding push the torch, currently you are dragging as for arc/stick welding.
Great point!
Great video. Im always impressed what you can get out of these small machines.
But one thing bro. We gotta work on your welds😅
That’s solid work.
I subscribed to your chanel.Excellent project.Thank you.
way better than the 9x20 version which looks like a skeleton in comparison
next channel acquisition: TIG welder, the primary benefit part cosmetics rather than structural
Interesting build.
The retaining caps you spot welded were superfluous, the knurled knobs will retain the screws.
No you do need them. Or the lead screw will simply unscrew when you try and unscrew the fingers. It is a common complaint on the stock sieg C3 steady
I must of missed something.. on mine the shaft of the screw is reduced diameter where it goes through the cap. When I take my adjusting knobs off the screws can then be removed from the frame towards the centre. Like the arrangement of an auto scissor jack.
Just a different configuration.
@@glennwright9747 His lead screws are inserted into the mechanism from outside the ring, so something is needed to keep them in. If he had designed it so that the lead screws were inserted from inside the ring, then just the knob would be sufficient to retain them.
@@Kineth1 yes!
looks great🙂
Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.
Very Nice !!!
I really like this design and would like to make a similar version. From watching the video, I could not determine the size of things very well. Can you indicate the diameter of the fingers and also the width and diameter of the ring that supports the fingers. Thanks.
that was so impressive!
very nice 👍
great content. really like your work but i’m constantly having to re-subscribe to your channel.
i might add some flats on the t nut so it locates itself
Epic build. For gasless MIG you pull and with gas, push the weld.
Yes definitely, this is a bad habit I’ve picked up
My 2 cents. Make the T-bolt "too big" Or even better as a parallelogram (skewed rektangel) Then it won't swiwel around in the grove, when you tighten it.
This wa awesome and the steady rest looks great! later you might want to add some rubber on the front of it so that shavings don't get between the guides and the work piece. Or keep a roll of duct tape next to it so you can tape it off. Just a tip! Check out Cutting Edge Engineering and how he does it with his big steady rest, I use his tips and even after a year of using my steady rest it's still in perfect condition and I don't have to worry about it scratching my pieces.
impressive
Perfect
We can't exactly tell where your ground clamp was when welding on the lathe but just in case, when you do, its best practice to place the ground clamp directly on the part you're welding, otherwise you could end up running current through your headstock bearings and gears, which could damage bearings, gears, or ways as well as magnetize them which will attract wear products and cause excessive wear.
DOH!🤪 I thought you would have made a slot and cross hole in the end to take a bearing mounted bronze wheel on a threaded bronze axle; a smooth rolling surface rather than a non-rolling, sliding surface. But that's just my humble opinion.
Also, it seemed like your weldup was done in reverse of what I may have done.😊
You could put/press a brass sleeve onto the ball bearing's if that was the case
Never seen that done before
Buddy as a welder it pained me to see you mig over that beautifully machined part
I would kill to get parts prepared that nicely to run a Tig weld over
I am not complaining about your welds just the process used
Yeah I’m getting a tig torch soon, the mig is a little much for this small build eh
thanks for sharing, great video
14:15 HAY! The hack saw? You didn't show the Hack saw! After watching you, I use mine more. A good blade and some elbow grease!
dude it perfect 👌
Your welds will come out a bit thinner if you weld in the opposite drection, so pushing your touch forward
Why can’t it be square on the outside and round on the inside?
It can be, probably wouldn’t look all that nice. Although I’m just using the stock that I could get my hands on
Very very cool my friend! Hope you will consider a website or other online delivery tool to offer plans for your well thought out and excellent projects!
Try using grease instead of oil to lubricate the finger ends.
You can leave a short stick out on the stock, face the stock, drill a center, turn between centers, then indicate in with less stick out and drill/bore?
I can only do that for material that fits in the spindle bore
Ahh I see I did not take that into account forgive my lapse in intelligence lol.
No worries, just those issues you run into on small lathes
I find hollow bar centre holes are always dodgy, I was surprised yours looked sorta round, it is usually pretty rough when I get some.
Nice
A tig weld looks way better than grinded mag welds😁
only if you own a tig welder
25:55 You can, every so lightly turn a spot for the steady rest.
Could have done captive roller bearings with a machined brass cladding. Ball bearings with the softness of brass, and no galling on metals the brass could meld to.
Yeah possibly, didn’t think of that
@@artisanmakes Could always store it away for a later upgrade. To be fair, your steady rest seemed more like a 'I need it to work how I want it now' kind of build, rather than something you had the luxury of planning out the way you'd have probably liked.
I think it would probably be a relatively stress-free alteration when you do decide to do it, too, so there's that, but then again I'm no machinist. I would, however, recommend some cylindrical or tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings. I do know they are better for high side-loading applications.
Oh hell yeah, can't wait to watch this later.
Hay what was the end mill you were using to face stuff in the beginning I’ve it definitely didn’t look like a fly cutter or a face mill but yeah I’m super curious
Are you talking about the end-mill with the rough sides, that he used to make the V-block? That's a roughing end-mill, used for removing large amounts of material without a care for surface finish. The face mill that he used to face the ring is one that he made in a previous video.
@@Kineth1 thank you I was talking about the face mill, I didn’t see he made a video about it, much. Appreciated
Needs some speed holes
I often have to work with round hollow stock and no the hole isn't round and not the same diameter over the part length it never is. You would do much better with first cleaning up the inside hole and then clamping into it to clean the outside
How many hacksaw blades do you go through a week mah man
You have a little forge, you should see if you can't make some aluminum bronze
That will be in the works soon, I just have to acquire some suitable aluminium first, the alloys I have aren’t best suited for Alu bronze
17:00 For anyone trying this, It is very hard on the mill. Thake light cuts, very light. I have a video on my channel doing this with a fly cutter on a full size mill, shook it to death.
Neat, I’ll have to check out that video
I don't typically comment on videos. But you spent all that time getting a beautiful finish on all those intricate parts, And then proceeded to cook the ever loving snot out of them with that mig. And i know it shouldn't, but that really bothered me man.
Gotta use what I have on hand
And it doesn’t particularly bother me much, I was always going to end up painting it
great video
what spindle rpms are you using with the face mill
From memory 1200-1500ish in the steel. Pretty much whatever speed and feed looks and sounds like its not chewing itself to bits.
@@artisanmakes thanks for the reply I have the sx2.7L and the calculations I was using was telling me 350rpm for hardened steel but it seemed really slow ill give your speed ago and see how that goes
No worries, do remember that these are those sharp edged inserts and I’m running them on mild steel
i hope to win the lottery one day so i can afford all these tools...
7:56 the saw cut footage is missing 🙁
Every video you have to make a comment like that right?
@@realemonful ITS TRULY NECESSARY
You could have used roller bearings instead of ball bearings.
You'll still have the same marring issue with softer metals
@artisanmakes just a thought. Could you try it and see how it works? If it works for you, I'll make it for myself.
I would have opted for a press fit rather than soldering the steady bits on the ring.
If they were pressed in, then tightening the screws would press them back out...
@@Kineth1 I see your point but a good press fit would withstand incredible forces.
6:10 is it me or it looks like someone chipped that insert on second chamfer😏
It’s a little chipped, but should be right if I don’t cut on that spot. I don’t have any replacement cnmg on hand at the moment
Nice build, I did one very similar a few years for a Atlas 6" lathe that I have. One thing that I recommend is to place tape or cardboard on the side you are machining on to keep the chips out, if they get in there they will damage the surface and cause early wear to form as well as causing it to want to bind the piece or chew away the brass surfaces so the piece becomes loose.
I have an atlas 618 and I need a steady rest do you have any photos of it you can provide so I can replicate it?
@@MegaLostOne awesome thank you!
Great result! 👍
I have a small suggestion for the lower T-nut.
If you mill or grind the 2 sides of the top of the oval piece, it will make a small raised square area maybe 1.5mm or 2mm high on top of the oval piece.
Then, you can still insert the nut into the lathe bed just as easily, but when you tighten the thread the raised square will lift up and will "lock" into the space between the lathe bed. Then you wont have to worry about the oval piece rotating when you tighten the thread.
A good suggestion
@@artisanmakesi can add to this, if you make it a rhomboid shape with a radius on the dull corners itll lock into place without needing to be pulled up. Thats whats being sold for extruded aluminuim too
Steady rests need to be hinged to open or at least have slot cut in the ring to allow easy removal and insertion of the workpiece.
Hi I think that maybe you should try dcgt inserts for boring because they have a geometry with sharp cutting edge. This might decrease the cutting force and improve a surface finish.
I’ve used them a lot in the past. Great inserts although I seem to have broken them all. I need to buy some more
I've yet to see you do anything that you should be embarrassed about. I started at metalwork when I was 12 ( yes we were trusted with a lathe and forgework at that age) I'm now 68 and it pleases me no end to see a young chap like yourself having both the interest and ability in the field. Cheers matey and long may you run.
22:17 I thought you would be using roller bearings instead of bearing pads.
For future builds, for the arms you might consider “bearing bronze” which has a bit of iron and aluminum
inserts are not good on interrupted cuts, i rather use speed steel, actually i had a bigger lathe than yours and i dont like to use inserts or widea, they are to rough for small lathe, speed steel bits are a lot more forgiving
I've been wanting to build one of those for some time now. Thanks for the inspiration. Very nice work.
I would add some big bevels for your welds in the future.makes a stronger joint and also alot easier to clean up the welds.
Only one. Hacksaw scene.... cmon don’t leave. Us wondering if. John cardogan convinced you to buy a power hacksaw...