If you must use a Skill Saw to trim a finished panel, get a decent blade and tape over the area to be cut before scribing your line. Then cut with the tape in place, A Skill saw blade cuts UP and will likely remove bits of the finished edge as seen in the video - tape and a finishing blade will help.
Agree. Very untidy finish in this example. Also, if you are cutting a bottom edge near a wet area (such as under a sink), it's best practice to seal the cut edge. If not, over time it's likely to attract moisture, swell, and burst the laminated finish right off the panel. 60 second fix to save having to replace a whole panel down the line.
I tape the plate on my saw too..to avoid marking or scratching whatever I'm cutting..I agree tho 100 percent with taping the material to avoid chipping..with a circular saw the finish side should be facing down as well
Belt sander or even a hand held grinder with aggressive sanding disk is the best way to trim scribes. Also mask where you're going to trim if you're cutting. No mask needed if sanding/grinding.
I use a table saw with a real fine blade and you won't get the chipping on the base of your panel. You can also use masking tape to help the chipping. Also I would have removed the drawers and installed a screw from the stile of the cabinet into the filler strip rather than to rely on the silicone to mount the strip itself.
Usually I nail mine from inside the cabinet and also put a thin strip of plywood 3/4 back from the face(however big the filler strip is) so someone just tapping it with their foot or hitting it with their hand doesn't move it.
I've seen several of his videos and I for one want him to know he is appreciated. His explanations and illustrations are spot on. He is clear and concise. keep up the great work. May God bless you and thank you again.
Yes, thumbs up to anyone who takes the trouble to help others - the internet has plenty of these folk. Where would we be without them - despite the sundry concerns / complaints, keep it up mate.
I agree to a point. But there are better methods for installing cabinets. Especially for residential where standards are supposed to be higher. This would fly in many commercial situations but for most residential projects this would not be acceptable.
To take off that amount at the bottom of the end panel I would use an electric plane or a belt sander, not a Skillsaw! If you use a Skillsaw you have to cut from the back so neat cut edge is on the good side but not suitable in this situation.Or maybe scribe from behind with a short pencil.
I can't believe you cut your carefully scribed panel with a circular saw. You can borrow my belt sander to sweeten that scribe if you like. I think IKEA recommends a backer block for your filler strip, but you got yours in good. Also, you cut the finish off the bottom of that MDF side panel and it's on the floor in a wet room. You should seal that bare edge in case water finds it some day. Just a silicone bead is good if it's not your house, but I would seal it if it were mine. Thanks for the video.
Vince Amato “Also, you cut the finish off the bottom of that MDF side panel and it’s on the floor in a wet room. You should seal that bare edge in case water finds it some day. Just a silicone bead is good if it’s not your house, but I would seal it if it were mine.” Please explain why a silicone bead is good if it’s not your house.
@@alexthomson7465 the floor being level or not has nothing to do with how you fit a unit - you either levelled it or you didn’t - I never seen a level floor yet
Hi, I produce modern cabinetry. your fillers are huge. Standard is one and a half inches. The best way to ensure this is to take 2x4 and tac it on to the wall. 3 mm under the top of the cabinet And 2 inches back from the face of the cabinet. Then butt your first cabinet up against it.
The panel is tilted out at the bottom, it should be tilted out at the top so the line scribed matches the floor where the panel will ultimately rest. If I were doing this, I would have installed both pieces BEFORE setting the top. Removing the doors and drawers so access to the stiles is easy. the filler is then cut to length to match the right end of the cabinet and scribed (on the right side) to match the wall. Then aligned with the top and bottom of the cabinet, pressed into place and attached with screws through the right stile. The panel at left is set in (plumbed) place, scribed to match the floor where it will sit. Trimmed along the scribe line. Then set in place and marked for height using the left side of the cabinet. This approach makes for easier measurements, fitting and installation. Then measure for your counter top and have it made to fit.
when cutting out the scribe,it would be best if you cut backwards. meaning that you run the saw opposite of cutting forward.this will prevent chipping on your finish material. just a suggestion. good video though.
@Troy Bailey Planer is not the best, just your preferred method. I use a jigsaw with a downcut blade, Bosch T101BR. Then I finish with a Porter Cable model 371 sander with a slight bevel. My scribes are deadly accurate.
You should measure from the bottom of the countertop down so you don't need to bend the tape. It gives a more accurate measurement. Not for everyone but I choose to use metric with finish work, same reason as above.
Why didn't you screw the filler strip to the cabinet? Your cut line on that panel looks like crap where the melamine chipped. You should of installed both items before the countertop was installed.
You can make an L piece. The proper way to do it is to install the filler like he has and then apply an overlay filler on top of it. Using something like bumpers to keep the overlay filler the same distance off the face frame as the doors/drawers
Mike2x2x diffrent ways to do the same thing we use a 40mm return screwed onto the fill with 50mm screw, then set it to the depth of the door eg 18mm door we set it out 20mm to alow for the hinge if that makes sense
This is terrible work for several reasons. 1.Those drawers needed to come out and the strip clamped and screwed from inside the cabinet. Also a blocker behind is a good idea. Filler goes on before vanity install, period. 2. Circular saw for scribing? Use a belt sander, even a good jig saw, and use masking tape if using the saw so you dont chip the panel. Rookie move with circle saw and not even using tape. 3. Why is your tile not level?
@@Z-Ack sometimes I go down the rabbit hole watching random videos on youtube/facebook etc. No real reason. But owning my own remodeling company, I like to watch these sometimes for fun. Its pretty entertaining
Please do not follow this guys advice. 1. The cabinet should be level when installed so there is no reason to shim the top. (Shim the cabinet). 2. The filler along the wall should be attached to the cabinet frame PRIOR to installing the cabinet and should be attached to the face frame of the cabinet with screws ( take out the drawers and screw from inside the frame into the edge of the filler, use clamps to hold the filler in place and drill piolet holes with a thin drill bit before screwing to avoid splitting wood) 3. It is also a good idea for a wide filler to use some sort of blocking attached to the wall so the filler can rest on it (the filler sits in front of the blocks). A bit of construction adhesive works as long as you clamp it until the adhesive is dry) since you didn’t install the top yet you can clamp and get access to behind the filler easily (the top goes on last) 4. Do not cut finish wood with a Skill saw. Use a table saw with a fine finish blade and the either a sander or a hand planner to make finial adjustments. 5. Use blue painter tape on the finished face of the panel to protect it while cutting.
Should there be a slight gap left between filler and wall? To account for wood expansion and contraction. Just scribed and installed my first wall filler panel last night, took some tapping to get it in place but Im concerned in the future for wood expansion. Maple cabinets and fillers, so maybe it wont move THAT much, but it goes from cold to hot here in CT throughout the year. I didnt install them before hanging the cabinets, but I did pre-drill and screw through the frame into the filler so its held in place well. Knowing I needed to scribe against the wall I didnt want to install them to the cabinets then take the cabinets up and down to get them to fit just right (although I wouldnt be questioning leaving room for expansion, maybe)
Question, hope you can help. Installed ikea kitchen cabinets all are level problem is the floor is not. How would you cut the cover panels if the floor and wall are off ??
And by the way @Graeme Darbyshire is right, and also you should not have removed that plastic film it really helps with a clean edge, not necessary with the circular saw technique presented here. Not to mentioned that rough edges at wall and floor side could be nicely covered by silicon.
No one knows that the tape housing itself is intended to be used as part of the measurement so that its accurate w/o bending, EVERY TAPE HAS THE HOUSING DIMEMSIONS TO ADD TO TAPE MEASUREMENT
First chipping at the melamine, second you left the bottom of the chip board raw, and in few months it will swell up and look swollen and bad. Rather use a solid piece of timber close to water....
yo bro use an angle grinder with a soft wheel to sand your scribe line with its better than there skillsaw it wont leave the chipping on your edge peace out
Did anyone notice that the side panel was even with the front of the cabinet base door. The will not allow the door to open and bind on the end panel. Unless I messed something?
Michael Yaremkiv, I agree. I like his drywall how to videos much better. I used a few of his pointers to finish the half wall texture and bullnose installation and texturing, a couple of months ago.
Good to know, your insight is both valuable and explanative.. experts critiquing youtube videos is where you get the best info from.. thank you foreign sir for being a master at cabinetry as well as watching how to videos on youtube regarding your mastery to help them out by your informative and descriptive comments!! You rock at life!!
Jigsaw and belt sander. I have grown to love the Porter cable model 371. The belt is 2 1/2" x 14". Looks like an armadillo. The bad news is they don't make them anymore. The good news is I can still get parts.
Kroban3 to the floor you need nothing more than either a festool underside cut or an upside down jigsaw cut - both are quality of cut good enough for floor cuts - and you never caulk to the floor unless you’re the last pretender 😍
@@seven.8228 In a bathroom why wouldn't you caulk? What if you take the dump of the century, the toilet clogs, overflows and shitwater gets under the wood where it meets the floor? Do you want shitwater trapped inside your casework?
Jeez bud, the further I get into the video the more I see wrong. I hope you've improved since making this video. The filler, you're cut in the end panel, shims under the countertop, wow.
First of all, the explanation for adding the filler after counters is bologna at best. If you install the cabinet level, no shims are need to lift the counter. the filler should be flush with the top of the cabinet.
34 and 7/8, 14/16, 7&3/32 that system really sucks.... Counting those little dividing lines must be frustrating. This shows again a superiority of the metric system. Decimal system rules!
Hah, yes! Try baking with cups and eggs (relative measurements are fine until you have to add something that's not relative). American people have it rough and I don't envy them!
You're spot on VC - USA may be the only country hanging on desperately to an archaic measuring system. Lived in Canada (it's changed to metric), now live downunder (we've changed over too). There's still some imperial artefacts left over, but metric system rules... OK!
Tell me about it !!! Go to Bunnings and try to find a specific size of a metric bolt or screw that is widely available in the SI countries, but down-under.... No, that would be too easy - you can get only what was easy to convert from the closest imperial sizes. Same goes for some tools! Metric is metric - we converted, that's where we should draw the line - no more imperial! We should go to Coventry Fasteners (specialty fasteners store in WA) for imperial bolts, nuts and screws not for metric ones!
And always tape the finished side you are cutting especially with circular saw so it doesn't leave you with something that looks like a beaver chewed it up
I don't know much about this sort of thing .... but I can say one thing (just based off the fact I have eye balls) this looks like total shit. If i hired you to do this in my home, I would want a 100% refund and it removed.
![Scribing A Cabinet To A Wall [Bent's Woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hzi5V05eMlM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Scribing A Cabinet To A Wall [Bent's Woodworking]](/img/tr.png)
If you must use a Skill Saw to trim a finished panel, get a decent blade and tape over the area to be cut before scribing your line. Then cut with the tape in place, A Skill saw blade cuts UP and will likely remove bits of the finished edge as seen in the video - tape and a finishing blade will help.
Agree. Very untidy finish in this example. Also, if you are cutting a bottom edge near a wet area (such as under a sink), it's best practice to seal the cut edge. If not, over time it's likely to attract moisture, swell, and burst the laminated finish right off the panel. 60 second fix to save having to replace a whole panel down the line.
I tape the plate on my saw too..to avoid marking or scratching whatever I'm cutting..I agree tho 100 percent with taping the material to avoid chipping..with a circular saw the finish side should be facing down as well
You took the words out of my mouth...lol. Cheers.
Very helpful, thanks. I've installed new cabinets in my master bath and have to install a filler strip. This is what I needed to know!
This is great , very informative and exactly what I needed to know , thanks so much....🇨🇦
paint sticks make the perfect filler strips and they are free! Works perfect for builder grade 90s cabinet ends.
Agreed
Belt sander or even a hand held grinder with aggressive sanding disk is the best way to trim scribes. Also mask where you're going to trim if you're cutting. No mask needed if sanding/grinding.
I use a table saw with a real fine blade and you won't get the chipping on the base of your panel. You can also use masking tape to help the chipping. Also I would have removed the drawers and installed a screw from the stile of the cabinet into the filler strip rather than to rely on the silicone to mount the strip itself.
Usually I nail mine from inside the cabinet and also put a thin strip of plywood 3/4 back from the face(however big the filler strip is) so someone just tapping it with their foot or hitting it with their hand doesn't move it.
chipshot442 great Idea thank you.
Awsome 👍👍
Blocking is best to place the filler strip or screw it through the wall of cabinet and use screw caps.
That filler strip will get pushed in sooner than later. Why not use blocking in the back of it to prevent it from being accidentally kicked in?
Jeff Womack aint nobody got time fo dat
We would probably use a cleat on both the cabinet and the sheet rock wall.
dood cuts on a milk crate.. what you expect
I was thinking the same - I think mounting small cleats at top,middle and bottom would secure from getting pushed through eventually-
@@reidarbensaude349 LMFAO
I've seen several of his videos and I for one want him to know he is appreciated. His explanations and illustrations are spot on. He is clear and concise. keep up the great work. May God bless you and thank you again.
Yes, thumbs up to anyone who takes the trouble to help others - the internet has plenty of these folk. Where would we be without them - despite the sundry concerns / complaints, keep it up mate.
I agree to a point. But there are better methods for installing cabinets. Especially for residential where standards are supposed to be higher. This would fly in many commercial situations but for most residential projects this would not be acceptable.
Thank you so much.
Belt sander would have been better to trim that end panel; no chip out!
Router + straight edge + pattern/ flush trim bit is best option.
To take off that amount at the bottom of the end panel I would use an electric plane or a belt sander, not a Skillsaw!
If you use a Skillsaw you have to cut from the back so neat cut edge is on the good side but not suitable in this situation.Or maybe scribe from behind with a short pencil.
weird question, who did the work on your left arm?
Thanks
This guy is internet gold.
I can't believe you cut your carefully scribed panel with a circular saw. You can borrow my belt sander to sweeten that scribe if you like. I think IKEA recommends a backer block for your filler strip, but you got yours in good. Also, you cut the finish off the bottom of that MDF side panel and it's on the floor in a wet room. You should seal that bare edge in case water finds it some day. Just a silicone bead is good if it's not your house, but I would seal it if it were mine. Thanks for the video.
I used a circular saw and a made perfect cuts.
Vince Amato “Also, you cut the finish off the bottom of that MDF side panel and it’s on the floor in a wet room. You should seal that bare edge in case water finds it some day. Just a silicone bead is good if it’s not your house, but I would seal it if it were mine.”
Please explain why a silicone bead is good if it’s not your house.
Silicone bead if it's not your house, typical tradie wanker.
Put screws thru the gable of unit for the filler piece - never use silicone as it cannot be painted and is useless for holding against unit
Thanks for the information. I will be using it this weekend to finish off the cabinets at my house.
what kind tools you use never seen Gray.
Are those Ikea Kitchen cabinets as a bathroom vanity?! Genius.
Total Genius!
Question, would it make your life easier if you painted the walls first, before putting in the vanity?
Yeah it would but then if the vanity has no play like the one I just put in you have to mud and paint the scrapes anyway so I think it’s preference
If u have to shim your countertop it means you fitted the unit off level or the unit was made crooked
Or the floor isn't straight/level
@@alexthomson7465 the floor being level or not has nothing to do with how you fit a unit - you either levelled it or you didn’t - I never seen a level floor yet
@@seven.8228 makes sense.
It would look better with a panel great job looks awesome.
Hi, I produce modern cabinetry.
your fillers are huge. Standard is one and a half inches. The best way to ensure this is to take 2x4 and tac it on to the wall. 3 mm under the top of the cabinet And 2 inches back from the face of the cabinet. Then butt your first cabinet up against it.
What happens at the other end?
The panel is tilted out at the bottom, it should be tilted out at the top so the line scribed matches the floor where the panel will ultimately rest. If I were doing this, I would have installed both pieces BEFORE setting the top. Removing the doors and drawers so access to the stiles is easy. the filler is then cut to length to match the right end of the cabinet and scribed (on the right side) to match the wall. Then aligned with the top and bottom of the cabinet, pressed into place and attached with screws through the right stile.
The panel at left is set in (plumbed) place, scribed to match the floor where it will sit. Trimmed along the scribe line. Then set in place and marked for height using the left side of the cabinet.
This approach makes for easier measurements, fitting and installation. Then measure for your counter top and have it made to fit.
Guys just doing his best ,don’t be such a smart pants
when cutting out the scribe,it would be best if you cut backwards. meaning that you run the saw opposite of cutting forward.this will prevent chipping on your finish material. just a suggestion. good video though.
Just put another piece of material under it-that will stop chip out.
painters tape on the bottom before marking your scribe eliminates most chipping
Upside down jigsaw is the way you scribe , or use little table saw - no one worth a shit uses a skillsaw to scribe anything
@Troy Bailey
Planer is not the best, just your preferred method. I use a jigsaw with a downcut blade, Bosch T101BR. Then I finish with a Porter Cable model 371 sander with a slight bevel. My scribes are deadly accurate.
Yep, and when I do use a circ saw I cut at a slight bevel except when I get to the face of the panel. Less sanding when I bevel cut.
You should measure from the bottom of the countertop down so you don't need to bend the tape. It gives a more accurate measurement. Not for everyone but I choose to use metric with finish work, same reason as above.
Imperial is more precise than metric. 1 inch is 25.4 mm but you can get it to a 1/32 using Imperial. I agree the math is easier.
Half fast is a: COMPLIMENT !!!
Why didn't you screw the filler strip to the cabinet? Your cut line on that panel looks like crap where the melamine chipped. You should of installed both items before the countertop was installed.
Ya'll don't need to bend your measuring tapes. The measurement listed on the side of the measure is for that.
Then you need arithmetic.
question, why dont you make an L piece for your infill so you can bring it flush with the doors
You can make an L piece. The proper way to do it is to install the filler like he has and then apply an overlay filler on top of it. Using something like bumpers to keep the overlay filler the same distance off the face frame as the doors/drawers
Mike2x2x diffrent ways to do the same thing we use a 40mm return screwed onto the fill with 50mm screw, then set it to the depth of the door eg 18mm door we set it out 20mm to alow for the hinge if that makes sense
Use an electric planer, no chipping and smoother scribe
Blow and go…you get what you pay for
Great video Steve-O! Are you the guy from JACKASS?
This is terrible work for several reasons. 1.Those drawers needed to come out and the strip clamped and screwed from inside the cabinet. Also a blocker behind is a good idea. Filler goes on before vanity install, period.
2. Circular saw for scribing? Use a belt sander, even a good jig saw, and use masking tape if using the saw so you dont chip the panel. Rookie move with circle saw and not even using tape.
3. Why is your tile not level?
A planer will do a good job too.
Why are you watching this video?
@@Z-Ack sometimes I go down the rabbit hole watching random videos on youtube/facebook etc. No real reason. But owning my own remodeling company, I like to watch these sometimes for fun. Its pretty entertaining
why did u not cut the cover panel from the upper side before installing the top ''ceramic''....?
also wondering about that. filler panels are always flushed with doors.
{- -} please stop speaking in absolutes. Not ALL fillers are installed flush with the doors.
Please do not follow this guys advice. 1. The cabinet should be level when installed so there is no reason to shim the top. (Shim the cabinet). 2. The filler along the wall should be attached to the cabinet frame PRIOR to installing the cabinet and should be attached to the face frame of the cabinet with screws ( take out the drawers and screw from inside the frame into the edge of the filler, use clamps to hold the filler in place and drill piolet holes with a thin drill bit before screwing to avoid splitting wood) 3. It is also a good idea for a wide filler to use some sort of blocking attached to the wall so the filler can rest on it (the filler sits in front of the blocks). A bit of construction adhesive works as long as you clamp it until the adhesive is dry) since you didn’t install the top yet you can clamp and get access to behind the filler easily (the top goes on last) 4. Do not cut finish wood with a Skill saw. Use a table saw with a fine finish blade and the either a sander or a hand planner to make finial adjustments. 5. Use blue painter tape on the finished face of the panel to protect it while cutting.
Should there be a slight gap left between filler and wall? To account for wood expansion and contraction. Just scribed and installed my first wall filler panel last night, took some tapping to get it in place but Im concerned in the future for wood expansion. Maple cabinets and fillers, so maybe it wont move THAT much, but it goes from cold to hot here in CT throughout the year.
I didnt install them before hanging the cabinets, but I did pre-drill and screw through the frame into the filler so its held in place well. Knowing I needed to scribe against the wall I didnt want to install them to the cabinets then take the cabinets up and down to get them to fit just right (although I wouldnt be questioning leaving room for expansion, maybe)
Why not put little wood blocks before attaching the right-side filler? You could "Fuse-It" to the wall and the cabinet, then shoot it with a nailgun!
I was with you until "nailgun"!
Translucent silicone?! I haven’t heard of that for the end finishes can you show me the product you use for that?
made in Sveden ya shure you betcha
how sustainable - metal drawers
Question, hope you can help. Installed ikea kitchen cabinets all are level problem is the floor is not. How would you cut the cover panels if the floor and wall are off ??
Jurgen Punko scribe the kick in same way you do the infills
You ever hear of tape and a jigsaw?
what did you build your base from? looks like ripped strips of plywood maybe?
Shipping crate.
great job
How do you determine how wide the fill strip should be?
If you have a door opening with a handle, at least how far the handle sticks out.
@@ConstructionCoach even if the door of the cabinet isn't as high as the handle?
You can use any width that works. I’ve even went tight to a wall with cabinets with no filler.
At 6:40, he literally swept it under the rug
That is why I love the comment section. Didn't even notice that.
🤣🤣🤣
And by the way @Graeme Darbyshire is right, and also you should not have removed that plastic film it really helps with a clean edge, not necessary with the circular saw technique presented here. Not to mentioned that rough edges at wall and floor side could be nicely covered by silicon.
No one knows that the tape housing itself is intended to be used as part of the measurement so that its accurate w/o bending, EVERY TAPE HAS THE HOUSING DIMEMSIONS TO ADD TO TAPE MEASUREMENT
First chipping at the melamine, second you left the bottom of the chip board raw, and in few months it will swell up and look swollen and bad. Rather use a solid piece of timber close to water....
He could also have used the sealed end of the panel on the ground to resist moisture. The top is safe under the benchtop.
Should used a planer to scribe the bottom of the end panel looks well ruff 🤦🏼
Lol, a planer would have done a cleaner job. The silicone bead was able to cover the roughness on the panel
How To build cabinets that fall apart
Please use table saw
yo bro use an angle grinder with a soft wheel to sand your scribe line with its better than there skillsaw it wont leave the chipping on your edge peace out
Who else saw him sweep his mess under the rug?
It's a temporary rug.
the bottom of that panel, gets water it's gonna swell up!
Does anybody actually listen to the talking parts? He said he was going to put caulking along the bottom...
Did anyone notice that the side panel was even with the front of the cabinet base door. The will not allow the door to open and bind on the end panel. Unless I messed something?
Forrest, most cabinet hinges pivot internally so when you open the door the edge moves inwards, effectively opening within the width of the cabinet.
Forrest Knight, the only thing you “messed” were your pants, from watching this video.
I mean….the tear out on the finished panel is not ideal. Should’ve taped it
Do not follow this method of cutting end panel; no need for chipping however inevitable when using circular saw
You should have installed these attached to the cabinet before you ever put the cabinet in
Thanks for the input, that is a great way to get it done. I thought it would be easier to show diy homeowners this way.
Seems like a nice guy but there is so much fail in this video.
Michael Yaremkiv, I agree. I like his drywall how to videos much better. I used a few of his pointers to finish the half wall texture and bullnose installation and texturing, a couple of months ago.
Good to know, your insight is both valuable and explanative.. experts critiquing youtube videos is where you get the best info from.. thank you foreign sir for being a master at cabinetry as well as watching how to videos on youtube regarding your mastery to help them out by your informative and descriptive comments!! You rock at life!!
@@Z-Ack thanks?
Carpet in a bathroom???
I would never use a circular saw to cut a scribe on Melamine. Way too much chipping. Looks terrible. Belt Sander only.
Jigsaw and belt sander. I have grown to love the Porter cable model 371. The belt is 2 1/2" x 14". Looks like an armadillo. The bad news is they don't make them anymore. The good news is I can still get parts.
@@ThekiBoran I love that sander
If you cut backwards with a circ saw there's zero chipping, even with a dull blade. And when I cut a bevel at the same time there's even less to sand.
My god you chipped the shit out of the gable - cut with jigsaw upside down man or use a planer
doesn't matter for mdf on the floor dude. it'll be caulked and good to go.
Blow and go. I'd use a jigsaw then a belt sander. You couldn't squeeze a quarter taint hair in any of my scribes.
otto_l why would you caulk to a floor - why are non tradesmen making videos about things they do not know
Kroban3 to the floor you need nothing more than either a festool underside cut or an upside down jigsaw cut - both are quality of cut good enough for floor cuts - and you never caulk to the floor unless you’re the last pretender 😍
@@seven.8228
In a bathroom why wouldn't you caulk?
What if you take the dump of the century, the toilet clogs, overflows and shitwater gets under the wood where it meets the floor? Do you want shitwater trapped inside your casework?
Jeez bud, the further I get into the video the more I see wrong. I hope you've improved since making this video. The filler, you're cut in the end panel, shims under the countertop, wow.
First of all, the explanation for adding the filler after counters is bologna at best. If you install the cabinet level, no shims are need to lift the counter. the filler should be flush with the top of the cabinet.
34 and 7/8, 14/16, 7&3/32 that system really sucks.... Counting those little dividing lines must be frustrating. This shows again a superiority of the metric system. Decimal system rules!
Hah, yes! Try baking with cups and eggs (relative measurements are fine until you have to add something that's not relative). American people have it rough and I don't envy them!
You're spot on VC - USA may be the only country hanging on desperately to an archaic measuring system. Lived in Canada (it's changed to metric), now live downunder (we've changed over too). There's still some imperial artefacts left over, but metric system rules... OK!
Tell me about it !!! Go to Bunnings and try to find a specific size of a metric bolt or screw that is widely available in the SI countries, but down-under.... No, that would be too easy - you can get only what was easy to convert from the closest imperial sizes. Same goes for some tools! Metric is metric - we converted, that's where we should draw the line - no more imperial! We should go to Coventry Fasteners (specialty fasteners store in WA) for imperial bolts, nuts and screws not for metric ones!
Whether it is termite proof?
Not perfectly installed filler strip,don't use silicone to attach it should be screwed through inside of drawers into filler strip.
And always tape the finished side you are cutting especially with circular saw so it doesn't leave you with something that looks like a beaver chewed it up
Filler not flush with door Booo!
And panel cut on finish side! Boo ! Chip out! Cut your panel backwards to avoid chip out!!!
Good intentions for sure. Seems like a nice guy but this work is not precise or best practice. At least this video.
haha
Now I know what not to do......
Yeah, like watch youtube videos on how to do stuff right??
Use L filler
I don't know much about this sort of thing .... but I can say one thing (just based off the fact I have eye balls) this looks like total shit. If i hired you to do this in my home, I would want a 100% refund and it removed.
Never trust advice from someone with sleeve tattoos. It's a sign of low intelligence.
or a guy who has trump 2020 hahahaha
viewers plz do not follow this use jigsaw instead for diy'ers circular saw is dangerious
Thanks Arshad, that is true!!!
That was very bad workmanship. You really ruined that panel.
Holy shit, this is terrible advice.