#BMWE60M5 After having a multitude of warning lights come up on the BMW E60 M5, today we work through a few checks to try and determine what’s at fault.
I had to change a DCS module once, it wasn't hard, just VERY messy because of all the brake fluid, and it is true that you have to code the new module using WinKFP using the ZB number of the existing DSC module of the car.
I had a similar issue with my e60 m5.. DSC / ABS warning lights (also gearbox warning light as well from memory). The initial code scan was inconclusive, but a second scan indicated specifically a faulty front right wheel speed sensor. I replaced it and it fixed the issues .. I’ve also replaced a rear wheel speed sensor previously. That also gave all sorts of warning lights on the dash
It’s the ABS motor that’s aged. I had the same thing and you just need to change the small black motor brushes and bearing. Well known problem that is tedious but can be fixed inexpensively
Love your videos and your car is so NICE! Read (past tense) below comment and reminds me of problems I had with Bit Serial Data network "BSD" that includes alternator, oil-level sensor and IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor). Faulty oil-level sensor pulled the whole vehicle down without having a charge 'LOW VOLTAGE' lamp on the cluster. I replaced the alternator, but is was not the issue. It was the BSD network. Also normal for electronic modules to work better when cold vs. heated (most failures). Also have read many complaints on IBS module grounding issues that can cause many modules to have/report issues. Confirm networks b/4 replacing any hard parts. Given that you leave car uncharged for more than a week, unlikely it is battery/alternator/parasitic loss issue, but still interested in final outcome. Best wishes for the repair in and very interested in the final failure mode. PChi
My initial thought was the alternator failing as I had the same issue with the warning lights... The alternator wouldn't wake up and ramp up the charge unless it was fully warm.... However you covered that with the replacement, still worth checking the state of charge of the battery
If it hadn’t been replace not that long ago I would have thought the same, not many Km’s on the new battery & alternator (both genuine BMW parts & registered correctly) Battery showing 12.6V (after scan tool draining it a little) & 14.10V running
Love the videos! Keep them coming. I have a question for you. I have a 2007 M6. I wanted to get a Evolve Alpha N tune. Is it ok to have these tunes? Thanks!
I’ve had this a couple of times! On each occasion it’s been when the car has sat in damp/wet conditions and I haven’t left the wheels straight when parked! I’ve always assumed that water has got In or sat somewhere, as soon as I’ve driven for a few minutes it’s always cleared!
Pretty much same, but not related to wet conditions. Normally when the car hasn’t been driven for a while, normally clears right away, but this time the fault did latch for the journey home. Hasn’t faulted since though
Hi guy, ive had this happen a couple of times, one turned out to be the ABS pump, and the second time was the yaw sensor under the front seat, both set off all the lights you have, happy hunting and good luck!
@@MTechGuy I was lucky enough to find a good secondhand unit, interestingly i actually preferred the start assist not working, it seemed to be more like an actual manual, and by letting off the brake and modulating the throttle at the same time, was much smoother as well.for me anyway.
Hey sir love the videos. I have a problem with my Smg, seems like it’s not slipping clutch properly. 1st and reverse grab too hard and almost instantly. Makes it dangerous to park lol, I tried the Smg reset. Do you have any suggestions for me? 73,500 miles at the moment original clutch
If the clutch was worn it would be slipping excessively. Sounds like it may be fainting release fork/bearing or slave cylinder, I would start by scanning for codes, check the hydraulic fluid level and go from there
You ever received a red trans sign ? And then not able to turn back on ? Code was plcd sensor so I replaced and trying to do the learn for plcd and won’t allow me to finish last stage fails
Not myself, but what you described, if it won’t complete the learning procedure, sounds like it may be an issue with the slave cylinder (the seals can leak over time) But go through and check the whole system first (hydraulic pressures, shift operation etc.)
@@MTechGuy well my buddy has the car am giving him a chance to over look it but when I get it back and it’s not fixed ill check it out and see am thinking its something electrical cuz I can jump my starter and car will start but won’t go into gear nothing but with out jumping that car it won’t start 😒
I had to change a DCS module once, it wasn't hard, just VERY messy because of all the brake fluid, and it is true that you have to code the new module using WinKFP using the ZB number of the existing DSC module of the car.
I had a similar issue with my e60 m5.. DSC / ABS warning lights (also gearbox warning light as well from memory).
The initial code scan was inconclusive, but a second scan indicated specifically a faulty front right wheel speed sensor. I replaced it and it fixed the issues ..
I’ve also replaced a rear wheel speed sensor previously. That also gave all sorts of warning lights on the dash
It’s the ABS motor that’s aged. I had the same thing and you just need to change the small black motor brushes and bearing. Well known problem that is tedious but can be fixed inexpensively
Great video bro, will be waiting for the update ,
é sempre um prazer ver estes vídeos tão profissionais feitos pelo nosso M Tech Guy! Amazing!
Cheers Flavio 👍
Love your videos and your car is so NICE!
Read (past tense) below comment and reminds me of problems I had with Bit Serial Data network "BSD" that includes alternator, oil-level sensor and IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor). Faulty oil-level sensor pulled the whole vehicle down without having a charge 'LOW VOLTAGE' lamp on the cluster. I replaced the alternator, but is was not the issue. It was the BSD network.
Also normal for electronic modules to work better when cold vs. heated (most failures).
Also have read many complaints on IBS module grounding issues that can cause many modules to have/report issues.
Confirm networks b/4 replacing any hard parts. Given that you leave car uncharged for more than a week, unlikely it is battery/alternator/parasitic loss issue, but still interested in final outcome.
Best wishes for the repair in and very interested in the final failure mode.
PChi
My initial thought was the alternator failing as I had the same issue with the warning lights... The alternator wouldn't wake up and ramp up the charge unless it was fully warm.... However you covered that with the replacement, still worth checking the state of charge of the battery
If it hadn’t been replace not that long ago I would have thought the same, not many Km’s on the new battery & alternator (both genuine BMW parts & registered correctly) Battery showing 12.6V (after scan tool draining it a little) & 14.10V running
Love the videos! Keep them coming. I have a question for you. I have a 2007 M6. I wanted to get a Evolve Alpha N tune. Is it ok to have these tunes? Thanks!
I certainly wouldn’t bother with it
I’ve had this a couple of times! On each occasion it’s been when the car has sat in damp/wet conditions and I haven’t left the wheels straight when parked! I’ve always assumed that water has got In or sat somewhere, as soon as I’ve driven for a few minutes it’s always cleared!
Pretty much same, but not related to wet conditions. Normally when the car hasn’t been driven for a while, normally clears right away, but this time the fault did latch for the journey home. Hasn’t faulted since though
Hi guy, ive had this happen a couple of times, one turned out to be the ABS pump, and the second time was the yaw sensor under the front seat, both set off all the lights you have, happy hunting and good luck!
Cheers Jay, no codes for the DSC pump or Yaw sensor. Did you get your pump rebuilt?
@@MTechGuy I was lucky enough to find a good secondhand unit, interestingly i actually preferred the start assist not working, it seemed to be more like an actual manual, and by letting off the brake and modulating the throttle at the same time, was much smoother as well.for me anyway.
Bro any updates on abs (dsc) pump , do you still get errors ?. Could it be wheel speed sensor ?
Hey sir love the videos. I have a problem with my Smg, seems like it’s not slipping clutch properly. 1st and reverse grab too hard and almost instantly. Makes it dangerous to park lol, I tried the Smg reset. Do you have any suggestions for me? 73,500 miles at the moment original clutch
If the clutch was worn it would be slipping excessively. Sounds like it may be fainting release fork/bearing or slave cylinder, I would start by scanning for codes, check the hydraulic fluid level and go from there
You ever received a red trans sign ? And then not able to turn back on ? Code was plcd sensor so I replaced and trying to do the learn for plcd and won’t allow me to finish last stage fails
Not myself, but what you described, if it won’t complete the learning procedure, sounds like it may be an issue with the slave cylinder (the seals can leak over time) But go through and check the whole system first (hydraulic pressures, shift operation etc.)
@@MTechGuy well my buddy has the car am giving him a chance to over look it but when I get it back and it’s not fixed ill check it out and see am thinking its something electrical cuz I can jump my starter and car will start but won’t go into gear nothing but with out jumping that car it won’t start 😒
Has the thought of getting an exhaust system ever teased ur mind ?
No, I like the factory set up