I have been chasing intermittent flame out for a LONG time unsuccessfully. After watching this video, I added three 12 volt LEDs where they can be seen from inside the rv. Green is connected to the thermostat return (blue), yellow is connected after the sail and overheat, and red to the gas solenoid. With the leds on display, It took almost no time to eliminate all the electrical controls. On a "guess" I took a diet coke can and partially blocked the exhaust port. It just started with ONE restart instead of the usual five or six. That's good progress. Thanks for the great information. knowing what is NOT the problem was a big help.
I added a short diagnostic harness to the same key points that you added LED's. This allows us to do a "bench-check" in place. I can do much more with the pin-out harness then with an LED indicator harness. Great idea none the less though. I encourage everybody to do what you did. Also if you extend the fault LED function that is immensely helpful.
A delight to watch a real Technician at work. There are so many videos on UA-cam where so called RV repair persons do it by trial and error or jump around in their troubleshooting efforts. You do it right.
Darren, your information is GOLD and thank you for sharing your wealth! I have recently converted an ambulance to an RV (shown on my channel) . I incorporated many common RV appliances in this vehicle and my knowledge in successfully installing these can be attributed to the training I have received from your many videos. I teach people how to build experimental aircraft kits so I am qualified to review your teaching style as EXCELLENT and enjoyable. The curiosity of how things work and why they fail is the key thread for repairing all things mechanical. Always look forward to your next video. Jon
I was camping this week and in the morning my camp neighbors furnace let out a Big WHOOSH! It sounded like a propane ignition. He said it happened in the evening too, but the furnace kept working so he kept using it until the morning episode. That one scared him so he stopped using it. I really wanted to inspect it and use some of knowledge i've gained from from watching you, but he said he just had it serviced and will be taking it back to his tech.
I am very grateful for your information on troubleshooting the older model RV furnaces. I have an older model fifth wheel that I was using for the first time winter camping and the information that you provided was instrumental for diagnosing a problem similar to what your example was on this video I appreciate it thank you😊
excellant tips and rambling to gleen gold from. all was good until I replaced the ignighter in the burner. you mentioned the gapping but didn't elaborate on how to adjust the electrode. to the specified desired gap. seems to be a fixed not adjustable mount.
I enjoy your UA-cam videos and you humor. The one thing that had given me a lot of trouble over the years is finding stray fuse, relays and control boxes. My motor home has 3 slide outs and the control box and the slow burn fuse on just the large slid out is given me hard time finding it. Just a short video on finding the location of these things when you are servicing a RV and have no clue as to where to look. Thanks for your videos.
During 9 years of full time total use I recently found on the furnace control board (solder side) of the "delay relay" where over time high current that runs to motor eventually creates a cold joint and using a jewelers' loop I found it to be now cold Doomed to fail permanent or intermittent and not power the motor. Figured? ~~ it was a cold joint, and found it, solder was cheap. . Love your very informative vids. Subscribed and follow! ?Is there a blooper vid? Dan
Excellent video. Thank you! Could a defective control board present the same conditions with intermittent flame? Could the flame sense be working correctly but the control board does not recognize it, or am I just over complicating things? Thank you again Darren for the extremely informative video. You are the best.
Great videos! I have a Suburban natural gas furnace. The fan comes on. The glo-bar comes on. I can hear the valve turn on with a clunk. Sometimes the flame will turn on. Once the flame is working, it seems to continue to work until at temperature. Most of the time the flame does not turn on. I checked for continuity between the three switches. I also checked that the valve gets voltage. Could it be the flame sensor or the ignition module?
Hello Darren just a quick question....I'm full time camping in the winter ...is it safe or needed to use the black foam rubber insulation around my propane lines from the propane tank?
Here's an outline to a seminar series that we have put on. Lots of good information contained here: myrvworks.com/darrens-seminar-outline-for-winter-rv-living-in-comfort/
I have an antique Goodman or Bryant gas furnace. The magnetic diaphragm valve starts to make loud buzzing noise. I could not find similar parts online. Do you know what could be wrong? Switch to manual on the valve, the noise stops. It’s call Bryant Heater Model 1/2 A634. Thank you
I have an intermittent domestic furnace. It will fire up fine and then randomly won’t ignite 3 times then blow cold till I reset the thermostat. Then it’ll work fine for a day or two or more. My control board doesn’t have a blinking light. Have to go through with my multimeter.
I am working on an 8531-11 furnace on an old camper, It lights and runs for a few minutes and then the light goes out but it’s keeps blowing for awhile. But it will stay lit 2-10 mins then shut off the burner and keep running. If I disconnect the wire connector from the motor board with the main wires and reconnect it, it will light back and stay lit again for few mins then burner goes out, and it keeps blowing. What I have noticed is it’s loosing power to the gas valve from the control board when the burner goes out. Do you think this is something back in the burner tube that is sending a signal back to control board to not send power to the gas valve or do you think it’s the control board itself?
I have the same furnace. It works fine at home at 5,000 feet but up near Gould, Colorado at about 10-11,000 feet it fails sometimes. It runs about 30 seconds and then shuts down. Actually worked fine the 1st night but not night 2 & 3. I do have a generator which I ran for 1-2 hours each day to replenish the batteries, but it still didn't work. This same scenario happened 2 years in a row. I have replaced the sail switch. Any thoughts.
I would approach this problem from the perspective of propane vaporization in the cylinder and Vapor pressure in the lines - adjusting everything to your new altitude. Make sure your propane cylinders are full, keep the cylinders warm don't let him get too cold, and make sure you check your LP pressure when you get to your location. You'll need a manometer for that. Kind of like checking the air in your tires with a tire gauge. I'm not sure what the laws are in Colorado with respect to working on your own propane system, but regardless of laws Etc I still think that's a task that needs to be performed when you're at altitude. It's more of a law physics than a law of regulation and enforcement. You need to make sure that that furnace is getting the right amount of propane pressure.
my furnace worked for 30min to 1hour then cycle off and then back on before fully shutting down and run for 15-30min before repeating this year it will only start for 15sec the shut down and not start up again could you let me know what to test
My SF25 is not firing at all I have replaced the board, sail sail switch, ignitor, limit switch, and the gas valve almost a brand new unit i cant figure this one out.
New trailer. 1.5 yrs old. Every mode works except Zone 1 Gas Heat. Thermostat is a Suburban RVComfort.......I replaced it and have the same problem. THE THERMOSTAT FOR ZONE ONE CONSTANTLY READS 110 DEGREES WHICH IS THE UPPER LIMIT FOR THIS THERMOSTAT. Jumped out the unit and it blows air. Anyone have this problem? It thinks it's 110 degrees, so it will not tell the furnace to turn on.
I have been chasing intermittent flame out for a LONG time unsuccessfully. After watching this video, I added three 12 volt LEDs where they can be seen from inside the rv. Green is connected to the thermostat return (blue), yellow is connected after the sail and overheat, and red to the gas solenoid. With the leds on display, It took almost no time to eliminate all the electrical controls. On a "guess" I took a diet coke can and partially blocked the exhaust port. It just started with ONE restart instead of the usual five or six.
That's good progress.
Thanks for the great information. knowing what is NOT the problem was a big help.
I added a short diagnostic harness to the same key points that you added LED's. This allows us to do a "bench-check" in place. I can do much more with the pin-out harness then with an LED indicator harness. Great idea none the less though. I encourage everybody to do what you did. Also if you extend the fault LED function that is immensely helpful.
I cover my exhasut and it starts the first time what do you think the issue is?
A delight to watch a real Technician at work. There are so many videos on UA-cam where so called RV repair persons do it by trial and error or jump around in their troubleshooting efforts. You do it right.
Darren, your information is GOLD and thank you for sharing your wealth! I have recently converted an ambulance to an RV (shown on my channel) . I incorporated many common RV appliances in this vehicle and my knowledge in successfully installing these can be attributed to the training I have received from your many videos. I teach people how to build experimental aircraft kits so I am qualified to review your teaching style as EXCELLENT and enjoyable. The curiosity of how things work and why they fail is the key thread for repairing all things mechanical. Always look forward to your next video. Jon
I was camping this week and in the morning my camp neighbors furnace let out a Big WHOOSH! It sounded like a propane ignition. He said it happened in the evening too, but the furnace kept working so he kept using it until the morning episode. That one scared him so he stopped using it. I really wanted to inspect it and use some of knowledge i've gained from from watching you, but he said he just had it serviced and will be taking it back to his tech.
Lot of information to try to digest in one video. Thanks for sharing.
A little long, but ok. The value is very worthwhile! Thanks Darren!
I'm new to your channel. Very informative and logically presented. Kudos and thankyou! John Bartley
I am very grateful for your information on troubleshooting the older model RV furnaces. I have an older model fifth wheel that I was using for the first time winter camping and the information that you provided was instrumental for diagnosing a problem similar to what your example was on this video I appreciate it thank you😊
excellant tips and rambling to gleen gold from. all was good until I replaced the ignighter in the burner. you mentioned the gapping but didn't elaborate on how to adjust the electrode. to the specified desired gap. seems to be a fixed not adjustable mount.
Great video, Darren. Love to watch you teach. I now understand the trail. Thanks so much.
Very informative and helpful. I am having the intermittent problem myself on my 2021 Grand Design 5th wheel. Glad I found your video.
Very useful video. Informative and confirms some of my thought process, but teaches me new things, too.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
I enjoy your UA-cam videos and you humor. The one thing that had given me a lot of trouble over the years is finding stray fuse, relays and control boxes. My motor home has 3 slide outs and the control box and the slow burn fuse on just the large slid out is given me hard time finding it. Just a short video on finding the location of these things when you are servicing a RV and have no clue as to where to look. Thanks for your videos.
Great video. Lots of information that is useful. I appreciate it.
Really appreciate your generosity. Many thanks.
I love watching these videos! Keep them coming
Thanks!
Thank you so much 👍
You are welcome
During 9 years of full time total use I recently found on the furnace control board (solder side) of the "delay relay" where over time high current that runs to motor eventually creates a cold joint and using a jewelers' loop I found it to be now cold Doomed to fail permanent or intermittent and not power the motor. Figured? ~~ it was a cold joint, and found it, solder was cheap. . Love your very informative vids. Subscribed and follow! ?Is there a blooper vid? Dan
Good Morning. Thank you again for all tis info. PS do you know a average charge a RV charges per Hr. The prices look like a big jump in cost. Jack
Seeing as you have to pull the fans and motor, wouldn't the gas valve fitting be more accessible with those out of the way?
did replacing the electrode fix the cycling issues?
Excellent video. Thank you! Could a defective control board present the same conditions with intermittent flame? Could the flame sense be working correctly but the control board does not recognize it, or am I just over complicating things? Thank you again Darren for the extremely informative video. You are the best.
Great videos! I have a Suburban natural gas furnace. The fan comes on. The glo-bar comes on. I can hear the valve turn on with a clunk. Sometimes the flame will turn on. Once the flame is working, it seems to continue to work until at temperature. Most of the time the flame does not turn on. I checked for continuity between the three switches. I also checked that the valve gets voltage. Could it be the flame sensor or the ignition module?
Hello Darren just a quick question....I'm full time camping in the winter ...is it safe or needed to use the black foam rubber insulation around my propane lines from the propane tank?
I have the same furnace I can't find the part number on that igniter do you happen to know what that is?
Hello Darren, winter is coming. Can you make a video about how to use the motorhome at winter ?
Here's an outline to a seminar series that we have put on. Lots of good information contained here:
myrvworks.com/darrens-seminar-outline-for-winter-rv-living-in-comfort/
I have an 8500 series furnace. You said they were not making parts for them any more. What do you recommend for a replacement?
I have an antique Goodman or Bryant gas furnace. The magnetic diaphragm valve starts to make loud buzzing noise. I could not find similar parts online. Do you know what could be wrong? Switch to manual on the valve, the noise stops. It’s call Bryant Heater Model 1/2 A634. Thank you
I have an intermittent domestic furnace. It will fire up fine and then randomly won’t ignite 3 times then blow cold till I reset the thermostat. Then it’ll work fine for a day or two or more. My control board doesn’t have a blinking light. Have to go through with my multimeter.
I am working on an 8531-11 furnace on an old camper, It lights and runs for a few minutes and then the light goes out but it’s keeps blowing for awhile. But it will stay lit 2-10 mins then shut off the burner and keep running. If I disconnect the wire connector from the motor board with the main wires and reconnect it, it will light back and stay lit again for few mins then burner goes out, and it keeps blowing. What I have noticed is it’s loosing power to the gas valve from the control board when the burner goes out. Do you think this is something back in the burner tube that is sending a signal back to control board to not send power to the gas valve or do you think it’s the control board itself?
Every December my Suburban SF35 goes tits up!
Possibilities, furnace fan flow switch sticky, thermostat defective,
I replaced my motor, flow switch sticky, not enough air flow.
Good informative video, ... but sooo long.
Better at repairs than editing.😂
Mines having and issue where it doens't light unless i cover the exhast port but only works for about 2 minutes then turns off
I have the same furnace. It works fine at home at 5,000 feet but up near Gould, Colorado at about 10-11,000 feet it fails sometimes. It runs about 30 seconds and then shuts down. Actually worked fine the 1st night but not night 2 & 3. I do have a generator which I ran for 1-2 hours each day to replenish the batteries, but it still didn't work. This same scenario happened 2 years in a row. I have replaced the sail switch. Any thoughts.
I would approach this problem from the perspective of propane vaporization in the cylinder and Vapor pressure in the lines - adjusting everything to your new altitude. Make sure your propane cylinders are full, keep the cylinders warm don't let him get too cold, and make sure you check your LP pressure when you get to your location. You'll need a manometer for that. Kind of like checking the air in your tires with a tire gauge. I'm not sure what the laws are in Colorado with respect to working on your own propane system, but regardless of laws Etc I still think that's a task that needs to be performed when you're at altitude. It's more of a law physics than a law of regulation and enforcement. You need to make sure that that furnace is getting the right amount of propane pressure.
Doesn’t elevation cause flame issues?
my furnace worked for 30min to 1hour then cycle off and then back on before fully shutting down and run for 15-30min before repeating this year it will only start for 15sec the shut down and not start up again could you let me know what to test
My SF25 is not firing at all I have replaced the board, sail sail switch, ignitor, limit switch, and the gas valve almost a brand new unit i cant figure this one out.
I have the same system can't find the part number for the igniter does anyone happen to know what it is?
New trailer. 1.5 yrs old.
Every mode works except Zone 1 Gas Heat.
Thermostat is a Suburban RVComfort.......I replaced it and have the same problem.
THE THERMOSTAT FOR ZONE ONE CONSTANTLY READS 110 DEGREES WHICH IS THE UPPER LIMIT FOR THIS THERMOSTAT.
Jumped out the unit and it blows air.
Anyone have this problem?
It thinks it's 110 degrees, so it will not tell the furnace to turn on.