Spent 4 days troubleshooting a Suburban Nt20-NEQ furnace, only 4 years old! All connections were good, thermostat works, fan runs, igniter sparks but no flame. Took a guess that it was the gas valve and replaced it and that solved the problem. Everyone kept saying sail switch and no one mentioned it could be the gas valve. $90 on Amazon and saved me $400 in labor. Thank you for your awesome videos I’ve learned so much from you. Great job breaking it down into plain English anyone can understand! 🙌🏻
I’ve been trouble shooting my Atwood 8500 IV (4) the last few days. Bought another board….no change. So I did what I should’ve done to begin with and followed the wire paths. Discovered a shorted wire from rooftop unit to furnace. Cut an access hole(s) (4) and fortunately found a mouse had chewed through the wire. Repaired the wire, put the original board back in and presto! Back to working! I enjoyed your video. I’ll be watching more of them! Keep them coming….please.
I absolutely love that you make these videos!!!❤ I am a certified motorcycle technician and former contractor so I know that with the right resource material I can usually find and fix my problems. But the hardest part I've found about doing that with my camper, is noone makes any kind of schematics or test paths like this available to the public. It drives me nuts! You are amazing and I hope you keep doing it!!!❤❤❤
Hey, I've been researching Atwood furnace repair videos for 2weeks and just found your channel. Super excited to see a lady making content 🙌 I've just started my RV journey on the north east and was operating under the assumption that I could slowly repair things over the winter, until.... My furnace died. RV techs out here have already gone south for the winter or charge $300 just for the first hour. Contemplating replacing the entire furnace for that rate and getting my own RV repair cert ASAP. I'll be living in your channel for near future from now on 😅💗🧑🔧
Thank you!!! With your help I Figured out what was wrong with my furnace, instead of replacing this and that and wasting money. It is the circuit board. Again, thank you VERY much!
Emily, you rock! My furnace would make a clicking sound when I turned on the thermostat and the red troubleshooting light on the circuit-board would blink one time. I found your video, troubleshot the circuit board per your clear and concise instructions and found out I was not getting power to the fan. I ordered a Dinosaur replacement board, installed it, and now my furnace works again! You're a very knowledgeable and talented woman...thanks for sharing it with us.
Hello you're very good at communicating. Have no power to the blower pin and 0.3 to the top pin so I don't know if the board is bad or the high limit switch is bad the sail switch is good ? Ps when the furnace did work I used to hear clicking up at the roof top AC that was definitely not normal .......my thermostat checks out, and it makes the furnace makes a click sound like it is trying to start the fan
I’ve been having trouble with my Atwood furnace for two weeks now. Been trying to remedy it and haven’t been able to find the issue. Just watched your video and realized how dumb I’ve been. Trying to get the furnace to turn on, I turned the thermostat all the way up to 90°. My problem is that I’m in Arizona and it’s over 90° outside and probably over 100° in the rv. I’m going to wait until nighttime to work on it! Thanks for your excellent teaching!
Possibly the most informative r.v. furnace testing videos on UA-cam. Now I can’t wait to get back out there with my multimeter. A thermostat testing video would be cool…. Many thanks!
I did that also, put everything back together. It tried to light and shutoff with 1-2 seconds but instead of needing to reset after 3 failed attempts it kept on trying and after about a dozen attempts it stayed on. It has worked just fine since then. Thanks for your channel, we are subscribed, it is very apparent you know what you are talking about.
I have learned so much about my Rv by watching you thanks for all the helpful information you provide. I'm a female living FT with my partner in our RV. I do all the maintenance myself. We had our furnace stop working and I fixed it. Thanks again keep up the wonderful helpful things you do God bless ❤
Great video. No one on UA-cam talks about troubleshooting to the circuit board. Thanks. Here are 3 things you may want to make videos about. I have an Atwood 7920-ii in my 2004 lance truck camper. I have had trouble for the last few years. Replaced every part except for the sail switch. Its still working fine though. This year i got trouble again. I want to replace the sail switch and clean out the dust, dirt and stuff in there and around the blower motor and thoroughly inspect everything. 1. How do you get the exhaust pipe out? Every video shows it pulling right out after removing the screws and sealant outside. Mine seems rusted in place. No help from the manuel. Sail switch and blower are in the back and not accessible until i can pull the furnace out. 2. How do i set the ignighter electrode to burner spacing? Once i install the electrode, there is no way to see the spacing from the electrode to the burner. 3. Is there a life expectancy to these furnaces? One video i watched had a crack in the heat exchange chamber. Im wondering if i should stop trying to fix this old thing. I wish i could get it out to thoroughly clean and inspect it. The current problem i have is it doesnt light. One flash on the led. Blower turns on and blows strong. Electric makes it through the safety stuff. Gas valve opens. Igniter clicks but sounds weak. Turns off after 3 tries. 2 years ago i replaced the electrode, burner and nozzle. Worked great for several months. Then stopped working. Spark sounded weak. Replaced circuit board. Problem solved. Strong spark and quick ignition. Worked good last winter. This year the spark sounds weak again and one flash on the led. First circuit board lasted 14 years. Im on my 3rd replacement in 5 years. Last one was the dinosaur board. Im so disgusted and tired of the unreliability. Im on disability and I dont have much money but i cant help wondering, have the new rv furnaces become any more efficient and reliable in the past 20 years? If so, i may consider getting a zero interest credit card and purchasing a new furnace. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance if you can find the time to answer and happy holidays. Steve
Hey Great video. I have an rv furnace that cycles through the start up but doesn’t lite. I do not hear the tick tick tick. I noticed the led light does not flash. Do you have a video on checking the igniter? Or would it be the capacitor that feeds the igniter? Again you are very informative and I plan on watching most if not all your videos.
Great troubleshooting video! I just replaced board in my suburban furnace, solenoid clicked when thermostat set to high temp but no voltage from solenoid on BLO wire. I assumed sail switch circuit would not allow solenoid to click if either were bad. New board fixed the issue. I went with Suburban board for twice the 💴 than an Amazon board, not sure how those will hold up.
RVrepairwoman, you are amazing! I have spent days online trying to learn how to troubleshoot my RV furnace, and then I watched your testing a circuit board video and your how an RV furnace works! I am now ready to troubleshoot my furnace! And it's going to the the limit switch or the circut board! Thank you so much. And, yes, do a video on tearing a furnace apart. You can use my 20 old Atwood 8500-IV, please!
One of the better videos out there about these furnace boards. My board ended up failing so I put in a dinosaur board. Now all my problems are gone. Highly recommend that board. Also look into buying some wire piercing probes. They’ll save you a ton of time . Just tighten the probe into the wire and connect your meter to them.
13:26 Emily!! Great video. Passes tests to this point - Sail switch good but no motor / audible click on board but never runs. Motor Spins freely. Maybe limit switch? Going new board route - Thank you so much for this video series.
Thank you for making this video. It is very clear and well thought out. If possible, could you add a edit in to say NEGATIVE 12v is going to make the board not function as well? I know its a beginner problem to ignore that sneaky little dash before the 12 but i did it and ordered a new board to fix the problem. Thankfully my new board from Dinosaur came with tech support and they pointed out my mistake.
You are very clear on your instructions for strategy based diagnosis. Very easy to follow your direction. Keep the Rv videos coming! Thanks! You Go girl!
Very good all in one site. Thanks. You help me anticipating future faults. Ones I can’t blame on the dog. I thought I was good at repairs but once found after taking my camper apart; trying to find why I lost 120AC to 1/2 the camper. Finally found the gfi reset button in the wash room tripped. I couldn’t have imagined it was wired to 1/2 the camper outlets. Live and learn. (Ground fault interrupter)
OMG, amazing!! I am trying to fix my 8900 Hydroflame and I have 12v power all the way up to my board and out to the breaker and on/off switch I tested my 60704a0-42 relay and I could not get the relay to shut from the application of 12v power even directly connected to my truck battery. I am trying to find the replacement for the relay and all I can see s the dinosaur one. what would be your suggestion?
I have an Atwood 7920-11. I turned on at the thermostat. Runs for approx 5/10 seconds. I have recently replaced the sail switch, over temp switch and the ignitor. Still the same runs 10 seconds and cuts off. I have a single red light blinking when this happens. I will test the circuit board next I guess. Thanks for the info.
Good video! My Atwood furnace blows cold air only I feel confident i can troubleshoot after watching this video. Thanks and wish me luck. It's 0 degrees with a wind chill of -30 so thanks again
Very helpful video….much better than others I’ve seen on line. I’m off to do the CB test and will let you know how it turns out. FYI, I suspected a faulty high limit switch but will feel better going through these tests before removing the blower cage to access it. I have an intermittent 15 sec on/15 sec off issue with the burner in my 1995 Atwood 8520 furnace. Will be replacing the burner today also.
No voltage on the V1 pin was my problem with no ignition. I jumped the first pin straight to the gas valv and 💥 i have heat!! I did try and time it with the igniter lol i was a bit off and got a whoof!! Thanks!!!
I just graduated from NRVTA. I believe you went there as well if I am not mistaken. You diagnosed things a little bit differently, but it was refreshing and nice to see there are other ways to testing a furnace circuit board. Keep up the good work and love your videos.
I also have been troubleshooting my domestic furnace. Just found you after watching numerous other videos. Your video on the circuit board was the most informative that I’ve watched . Keep up the good work and I will be watching more. Thanks! Liked and subscribed!
Great informational and detailed video! I tried each of your tests on my circuit board because I’m seeing an E1 error on my thermostat control unit. The CB gets power, but I’m afraid the control unit isn’t connected to the CB somehow because of the E1 error. I’ve disconnected my batteries, swapped the control unit and the CB, in your experience what’s the issue and how do I troubleshoot this error?
Another outstanding video Emily! Have you thought of doing a telephone or on-line consulting business? I'd bet that there are a lot of folks who could use someone to call with a problem. For example: My xxx is working. I've done xyz. Is it the a, b, or c........ Then hook the caller up with the fastest place to identify /find/ship the needed part. I'd think that you could get a lot of business if folks had someone to call and confirm their problem before they roll a mobile tech.
Thank you for the Video. I have a DSI board and VCB Board, everything checks out up until you get to the 4 pins on the DSI. Have power at the white wire but no power at red or black and nothing coming out of Igniter. If you jump the red wire going to gas valve i can here it work and smell gas, but still no Ignition. DSI board? or other tests needed?
It’s 19:30 central time that I watched the video. My problem is my furnace works but it’s blowing the circuit breaker switch. I have a dometic DFDM 30111 furnace. I may have the letters mixed it may be a DFMD 30111. Anyway when I go out and put the switch in The reset mode it works fine. I tested the switch and it has 13.6 volts at both terminals. I tested the board at the top two red wires and I get no reading I didn’t test where the 4 wire plug goes. According to dometic the switch should be good if I’m getting 13.6 volts. This is obviously an intermittent problem. But it’s driving me crazy plus I’m out with the trailer in the northern part of the US where it’s getting very cold at night
So I went through this whole process and it appears it is an " upstream issue" as you say. I notice when I removed the fuse for the furnace the little light did not come on under the removed fuse. Other fuses have a light when removed. Should this tell me anything about where my issue might be? Thanks for the helpful video
OMG! You BLO 😂 my mind. But seriously, thanks for a great channel. I Christopher Columbused you last week and have been watching your videos non stop. I'm learning so much good stuff from you
I must have an ancient board. There are labels for PWR & Blower on the board, but no pins. My 6 pin connector only has 3 wires. There is no thermostat wire. My red pwr wire plugs into a pin on a 4 pin square connector along with other different colored wires. I just ordered a new board but it has pins for the pwr & blower. Do I need to rewire things now? Which wires go to those 2 new connectors on the board. Thanks.
@@rvrepairwoman Unfortunately the new PCB shows the same symptoms. When it switches to heat I hear a humming noise and do not get 12V on the Blower pin. After a few seconds the diode starts blinking for the air flow/limit fault error. Now I wonder if that humming noise is normal?
I have a Suburban RV furnace less than 2 years old. It runs fine, ignites, reaches temp, fire goes out and blower cools chamber down. As soon as the blower shuts off, the blower immediately restarts. Blower runs about 2 minutes shuts off, restarts. The blower keeps cycling until I pull the fuse out. Once I do that, and reinsert fuse the blower will remain off, until heat is called for again and the problem repeats. Ever heard of this? I've ordered a module board but it has not arrived yet.
I have intermittent issues with with my sf-30f...so far I've switched out all the parts except for the circuit board and the gas valve. My question is: do these valves get sticky? My heater would be working, then turn off like it normally would when the desired temp was reached...then it wouldn't fire back up. Blower and everything comes on like normal, doesn't ignite so the air doesn't get warm. Could the problem be the valve not opening so there's no gas to ignite. It seems like i keep getting it to work and then after cycling it won't fire up again.
Volts only the the PWR Spade. Checked at the A/C where they connect and I have 12v on both wires going to the thermostat and 12v coming back from the thermostat. It connects to a blue wire that I assume goes to the board. When calling for heat shouldn’t I have 12v at the TH pin on the board? Hope this makes sense.
Any idea on what is making my dometic furnace shoot flames out the exhaust port outside the camper. Igniter lights and keeps clicking like it wont stay lit builds up enough gas and then boom does it once or twice and then kicks off and i have to reset at the thermostat to try and run again. I know it could potentially be several things. I currently have the furnace out and half way disassembled. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also wanted to mention first issue was stove doing the same thing got that fixed. Dirt daubers were in that it got cleaned out stove started working fine and its like the issue reversed to the furnace that i had used 4-5 times right before the stove got fixed. Checked the exhaust port their were also dirt daubers in that. Took furnace out checked that air was flowing through metal pipe with shopvac seemed to blow like it should with no restrictions. Thanks
Hello! Can we get a video on how to test ac thermostat? I'm full time living in my rv and am having ac troubles. I believe it's my thermostat but not 100%. Would like to learn how to test before I spend $270 on a new tstat.
I am freezing out here ...if I am getting 12v to the board and my blower motor is tested . And nothing happens is there a good chance it is circuit board ?? If so I will just order one. The thermostat is tested as well
I set the T-stat, the fan comes comes on but, no power to board at all. I tested all three wires and they’re dead. So I’m getting no power to the board. I have tested every fuse. It also appears there is plenty of air flow. My furnace is a year 2000 Atwood furnace. Any input would be appreciated.
atwood 8535-iv replaced everything, sail ,limit , igniter, mother board , cleaned inside and out , it will not get passed sail switch, so i tied a fishing line to it ,drilled a small hole turned it on pull the fishing line a ND bingo it started right up , why does the blower not strong enough to trip the sail switch ? Thank you o@@rvrepairwoman
Hey. So I’m having an issue with my furnace shutting off after running for about 5 minutes. I took the outside cover off and reset the furnace and it instantly turned on I left the cover off for a few minutes and it stay on. It shut off again a few minutes after I put the cover on. If you have an idea what may be causing it that would be greatly appreciated.
Here are my shot in the dark thoughts since I can't be there to look at the furnace: 1. Is there any chance the room has gotten to temperature? The furnace isn't going to continuously run, it will stop once the room gets to temp. Crank the thermostat to 90 and see if it stay on longer than the 5 minutes. 2. Wait until after the furnace stops working and then test your High Temperature Limit Switch (HTLS). I don't have a video on this yet, so let me try to explain how. If you can easy get to the back of the furnace, you should see it sitting there. Carefully disconnect the wires from it and then test it for continuity. If it has continuity while the furnace isn't working then its NOT your problem. If it doesn't have continuity then that guy is your most likely culprit. If you can more easily get to the front of the furnace (like where the sail switch is) then here is what you can do instead to test the HTLS. Look at your sail switch, there should be two wires going to it, one wire is going to lead to the top pin on the circuit board and the other is going to disappear into the furnace. Disconnect the wire the disappears into the furnace and check for continuity between it and the second pin on the circuit board (the thermostat pin). Again if you HAVE continuity while the furnace is off then the HTLS is not your problem. If you don't have continuity then the HTLS is your most likely culprit. 3. Your 3rd option is to try to find a way to get the furnace to run and then fail while you have the circuit board accessible, so you can run the tests I show in the video after it fails. It could be that your circuit board stops sending the right signals at the right time.
can you tell me if I need propane turned on before I start my furnace blower? I realize there will be no gas flow etc but just want to know if the system has to show pressure before it will let blower kick on. I am trying to troubleshoot my system and it comes on intermittently.
@@rvrepairwoman thanks for your reply my issue is I can go out there and turn on heat and adjust thermostat up and hear the click in the AC unit above and then blower will not even turn on and another day I can go out there and poof it works.
I have a suburban sf30f furnace. I did all the proper tests and the solenoid clicks and does not have power to the blower motor. I replaced the board with the updated version and the solenoid does not click and no power to the blower. I checked the sail switch and the overheat switch or whatever it's called and they are good. So how often are new boards bad? If not what else could it be?
Emily this is Jeff moore I have a atwood hydro flame 8500-IV could you email a copy how to diagnose. I replaced thermostat was bad then it was trying to ignite but wouldn't.
You are very knowledgeable but you ended this presentation at the point of my problem which is the ignitor is coming on and there is flame for about 3. seconds them should off and it's repeated on the 3 attempts. This problem happened all of a sudden so the gas pressure is OK Is there a part 2 to this topic or do you have a video that explains this situation. I like the way you break things down to step by step. Hopefully, I explained my problem well enough Thank you I'm a fan, and I'll be watching more of your videos and are you single
I’m just Spitballing here, but this is what I would look at 1. Test the thermostat. I’ve had a brand new part be bad, it sucks but it happens. 2. Make SURE the thermostat is actually set to heat, and the temp is set higher than the temp in the RV. Those RV thermostats can be a pain in the butt sometimes. 2. Start tracing back the thermostat wire from the board and see if there is a break somewhere
@rvrepairwoman It wasn't. it was actually the mother/circuit board. Thank you for your reply! We got it done! About 9 days in some single digit temperatures without it. But we came through!
I don't just feel empowered, I have to do this or I won't survive. Being empowered has nothing to do with that. You wouldn't understand because obviously someone helped you at some point with something.
Spent 4 days troubleshooting a Suburban Nt20-NEQ furnace, only 4 years old! All connections were good, thermostat works, fan runs, igniter sparks but no flame. Took a guess that it was the gas valve and replaced it and that solved the problem. Everyone kept saying sail switch and no one mentioned it could be the gas valve. $90 on Amazon and saved me $400 in labor. Thank you for your awesome videos I’ve learned so much from you. Great job breaking it down into plain English anyone can understand! 🙌🏻
I’ve been trouble shooting my Atwood 8500 IV (4) the last few days. Bought another board….no change. So I did what I should’ve done to begin with and followed the wire paths. Discovered a shorted wire from rooftop unit to furnace. Cut an access hole(s) (4) and fortunately found a mouse had chewed through the wire. Repaired the wire, put the original board back in and presto! Back to working! I enjoyed your video. I’ll be watching more of them! Keep them coming….please.
I absolutely love that you make these videos!!!❤ I am a certified motorcycle technician and former contractor so I know that with the right resource material I can usually find and fix my problems. But the hardest part I've found about doing that with my camper, is noone makes any kind of schematics or test paths like this available to the public. It drives me nuts! You are amazing and I hope you keep doing it!!!❤❤❤
Hey, I've been researching Atwood furnace repair videos for 2weeks and just found your channel. Super excited to see a lady making content 🙌 I've just started my RV journey on the north east and was operating under the assumption that I could slowly repair things over the winter, until.... My furnace died. RV techs out here have already gone south for the winter or charge $300 just for the first hour. Contemplating replacing the entire furnace for that rate and getting my own RV repair cert ASAP. I'll be living in your channel for near future from now on 😅💗🧑🔧
Thank you!!! With your help I Figured out what was wrong with my furnace, instead of replacing this and that and wasting money. It is the circuit board. Again, thank you VERY much!
Emily, you rock! My furnace would make a clicking sound when I turned on the thermostat and the red troubleshooting light on the circuit-board would blink one time. I found your video, troubleshot the circuit board per your clear and concise instructions and found out I was not getting power to the fan. I ordered a Dinosaur replacement board, installed it, and now my furnace works again! You're a very knowledgeable and talented woman...thanks for sharing it with us.
THIS is what I made this video for! So glad that it helped someone out!
Hello you're very good at communicating. Have no power to the blower pin and 0.3 to the top pin so I don't know if the board is bad or the high limit switch is bad the sail
switch is good ? Ps when the furnace did work I used to hear clicking up at the roof top AC that was definitely not normal .......my thermostat checks out, and it makes the furnace makes a click sound like it is trying to start the fan
I’ve been having trouble with my Atwood furnace for two weeks now. Been trying to remedy it and haven’t been able to find the issue. Just watched your video and realized how dumb I’ve been. Trying to get the furnace to turn on, I turned the thermostat all the way up to 90°. My problem is that I’m in Arizona and it’s over 90° outside and probably over 100° in the rv. I’m going to wait until nighttime to work on it! Thanks for your excellent teaching!
Possibly the most informative r.v. furnace testing videos on UA-cam.
Now I can’t wait to get back out there with my multimeter.
A thermostat testing video would be cool….
Many thanks!
I did that also, put everything back together. It tried to light and shutoff with 1-2 seconds but instead of needing to reset after 3 failed attempts it kept on trying and after about a dozen attempts it stayed on. It has worked just fine since then. Thanks for your channel, we are subscribed, it is very apparent you know what you are talking about.
Finally! A no-nonsense place for trouble shooting advice!! I hit the subscribe button after the first sentence!
I have learned so much about my Rv by watching you thanks for all the helpful information you provide. I'm a female living FT with my partner in our RV. I do all the maintenance myself. We had our furnace stop working and I fixed it. Thanks again keep up the wonderful helpful things you do God bless ❤
Great video. No one on UA-cam talks about troubleshooting to the circuit board. Thanks.
Here are 3 things you may want to make videos about. I have an Atwood 7920-ii in my 2004 lance truck camper. I have had trouble for the last few years. Replaced every part except for the sail switch. Its still working fine though. This year i got trouble again. I want to replace the sail switch and clean out the dust, dirt and stuff in there and around the blower motor and thoroughly inspect everything.
1. How do you get the exhaust pipe out?
Every video shows it pulling right out after removing the screws and sealant outside. Mine seems rusted in place. No help from the manuel. Sail switch and blower are in the back and not accessible until i can pull the furnace out.
2. How do i set the ignighter electrode to burner spacing?
Once i install the electrode, there is no way to see the spacing from the electrode to the burner.
3. Is there a life expectancy to these furnaces?
One video i watched had a crack in the heat exchange chamber. Im wondering if i should stop trying to fix this old thing. I wish i could get it out to thoroughly clean and inspect it.
The current problem i have is it doesnt light. One flash on the led. Blower turns on and blows strong. Electric makes it through the safety stuff. Gas valve opens. Igniter clicks but sounds weak. Turns off after 3 tries. 2 years ago i replaced the electrode, burner and nozzle. Worked great for several months. Then stopped working. Spark sounded weak. Replaced circuit board. Problem solved. Strong spark and quick ignition. Worked good last winter. This year the spark sounds weak again and one flash on the led. First circuit board lasted 14 years. Im on my 3rd replacement in 5 years. Last one was the dinosaur board. Im so disgusted and tired of the unreliability. Im on disability and I dont have much money but i cant help wondering, have the new rv furnaces become any more efficient and reliable in the past 20 years? If so, i may consider getting a zero interest credit card and purchasing a new furnace. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance if you can find the time to answer and happy holidays.
Steve
Thanks for this video, I've been trying to figure out the pinout on that board for two days. Hero for the day!
Hey Great video. I have an rv furnace that cycles through the start up but doesn’t lite. I do not hear the tick tick tick. I noticed the led light does not flash. Do you have a video on checking the igniter? Or would it be the capacitor that feeds the igniter? Again you are very informative and I plan on watching most if not all your videos.
Great troubleshooting video! I just replaced board in my suburban furnace, solenoid clicked when thermostat set to high temp but no voltage from solenoid on BLO wire. I assumed sail switch circuit would not allow solenoid to click if either were bad. New board fixed the issue. I went with Suburban board for twice the 💴 than an Amazon board, not sure how those will hold up.
Very good video Emily. You have the gift of teaching.
Thank you for the video.
That means so much to me! Thank You!
I feel she'd be a good kindergarten teacher. ❤
You helped fix my frig a weeks ago and heater today. Thanks for being so detailed with step by step troubleshooting. My family thanks you!
RVrepairwoman, you are amazing! I have spent days online trying to learn how to troubleshoot my RV furnace, and then I watched your testing a circuit board video and your how an RV furnace works! I am now ready to troubleshoot my furnace! And it's going to the the limit switch or the circut board! Thank you so much. And, yes, do a video on tearing a furnace apart. You can use my 20 old Atwood 8500-IV, please!
One of the better videos out there about these furnace boards. My board ended up failing so I put in a dinosaur board. Now all my problems are gone. Highly recommend that board. Also look into buying some wire piercing probes. They’ll save you a ton of time . Just tighten the probe into the wire and connect your meter to them.
13:26 Emily!! Great video. Passes tests to this point - Sail switch good but no motor / audible click on board but never runs. Motor Spins freely. Maybe limit switch?
Going new board route -
Thank you so much for this video series.
Thank you for making this video. It is very clear and well thought out. If possible, could you add a edit in to say NEGATIVE 12v is going to make the board not function as well? I know its a beginner problem to ignore that sneaky little dash before the 12 but i did it and ordered a new board to fix the problem. Thankfully my new board from Dinosaur came with tech support and they pointed out my mistake.
Great video! Just trolling youtube fell into her site. Excellent, concise, and no word salads.
You are very clear on your instructions for strategy based diagnosis. Very easy to follow your direction. Keep the Rv videos coming! Thanks! You Go girl!
Very good all in one site. Thanks. You help me anticipating future faults. Ones I can’t blame on the dog.
I thought I was good at repairs but once found after taking my camper apart; trying to find why I lost 120AC to 1/2 the camper.
Finally found the gfi reset button in the wash room tripped. I couldn’t have imagined it was wired to 1/2 the camper outlets.
Live and learn. (Ground fault interrupter)
Oh my god you would be surprised how many things get wired with the GFCI. And it’s not consistent from RV to RV.
OMG, amazing!! I am trying to fix my 8900 Hydroflame and I have 12v power all the way up to my board and out to the breaker and on/off switch I tested my 60704a0-42 relay and I could not get the relay to shut from the application of 12v power even directly connected to my truck battery.
I am trying to find the replacement for the relay and all I can see s the dinosaur one.
what would be your suggestion?
I order dinosaur boards all the time and their customer service is top notch.
I have an Atwood 7920-11. I turned on at the thermostat. Runs for approx 5/10 seconds. I have recently replaced the sail switch, over temp switch and the ignitor. Still the same runs 10 seconds and cuts off. I have a single red light blinking when this happens. I will test the circuit board next I guess. Thanks for the info.
Thank you so much. Was able to fix my furnace myself and save a bunch of money.
Good video! My Atwood furnace blows cold air only I feel confident i can troubleshoot after watching this video. Thanks and wish me luck. It's 0 degrees with a wind chill of -30 so thanks again
Get warm dude! *fingers crossed*
Very helpful video….much better than others I’ve seen on line. I’m off to do the CB test and will let you know how it turns out. FYI, I suspected a faulty high limit switch but will feel better going through these tests before removing the blower cage to access it. I have an intermittent 15 sec on/15 sec off issue with the burner in my 1995 Atwood 8520 furnace. Will be replacing the burner today also.
Intermitent problems are the WORST! It always starts working again right as you’re about to get to the bottom of the problem.
Emily, awesome videos. We have no voltage on the brown but our fan motor is running constantly and furnace won’t ignite. Help, please.
Great job 😊
Got my folks RV furnace sorted out due to your information. Main board replaced, old one had some swollen caps. Thanks for your help!
Excellent explanation, my board was bad, thanks...........
No voltage on the V1 pin was my problem with no ignition. I jumped the first pin straight to the gas valv and 💥 i have heat!! I did try and time it with the igniter lol i was a bit off and got a whoof!! Thanks!!!
YAS! Love to see it!
Very informative series that has easily directed me to repair my rv furnace.
Thanks!
I just graduated from NRVTA. I believe you went there as well if I am not mistaken. You diagnosed things a little bit differently, but it was refreshing and nice to see there are other ways to testing a furnace circuit board. Keep up the good work and love your videos.
Oh cool! This was how I was thought at the NRVTA. How were you guys taught different? Always love a new way to look at things.
You Rock Girl!! Very good
I also have been troubleshooting my domestic furnace. Just found you after watching numerous other videos. Your video on the circuit board was the most informative that I’ve watched . Keep up the good work and I will be watching more. Thanks! Liked and subscribed!
Glad it helped!
Great informational and detailed video!
I tried each of your tests on my circuit board because I’m seeing an E1 error on my thermostat control unit. The CB gets power, but I’m afraid the control unit isn’t connected to the CB somehow because of the E1 error. I’ve disconnected my batteries, swapped the control unit and the CB, in your experience what’s the issue and how do I troubleshoot this error?
Thank you for the explanation and what the voltages should be. Extremely helpful video!
Great job and advice for us....I appreciate it!
Thank you :) best video that i could find so far explaining every point of the board awesome... Thanks ❤
Glad it was helpful!
I agree! Wish found out this video last week!!
Thank you for your video found out it was the circuit board
Another outstanding video Emily! Have you thought of doing a telephone or on-line consulting business? I'd bet that there are a lot of folks who could use someone to call with a problem. For example: My xxx is working. I've done xyz. Is it the a, b, or c........ Then hook the caller up with the fastest place to identify /find/ship the needed part. I'd think that you could get a lot of business if folks had someone to call and confirm their problem before they roll a mobile tech.
Thank you for the Video. I have a DSI board and VCB Board, everything checks out up until you get to the 4 pins on the DSI. Have power at the white wire but no power at red or black and nothing coming out of Igniter. If you jump the red wire going to gas valve i can here it work and smell gas, but still no Ignition. DSI board? or other tests needed?
Beyond my ability at this point but at least I understand more and even better, impressed with your knowledge and ability. Pretty awesome!❤
Great video explaining the circuit board and tracing the power flow - thank you
Thanks so much for this informative video! 👍🏻
New follower. I love the videos, I figure that you have saved me at least $$1000 in repair costs thus far. Thanks .
Glad to help!
It’s 19:30 central time that I watched the video. My problem is my furnace works but it’s blowing the circuit breaker switch. I have a dometic DFDM 30111 furnace. I may have the letters mixed it may be a DFMD 30111. Anyway when I go out and put the switch in The reset mode it works fine. I tested the switch and it has 13.6 volts at both terminals. I tested the board at the top two red wires and I get no reading I didn’t test where the 4 wire plug goes. According to dometic the switch should be good if I’m getting 13.6 volts. This is obviously an intermittent problem. But it’s driving me crazy plus I’m out with the trailer in the northern part of the US where it’s getting very cold at night
Great information, awesome detail. Thanks Don
Excellent and informative video 👍
I like your videos and have subscribed.... I need a way to secure my power awning during travel....thoughts?
So I went through this whole process and it appears it is an " upstream issue" as you say. I notice when I removed the fuse for the furnace the little light did not come on under the removed fuse. Other fuses have a light when removed. Should this tell me anything about where my issue might be? Thanks for the helpful video
Awesome job! Really in depth video
Glad you liked it!
Probably a stupid question, but is the furnace running while testing the board? this is going to be tomorrow's project
OMG! You BLO 😂 my mind. But seriously, thanks for a great channel. I Christopher Columbused you last week and have been watching your videos non stop. I'm learning so much good stuff from you
❤️love finding other people that like to geek out over this!
I must have an ancient board. There are labels for PWR & Blower on the board, but no pins. My 6 pin connector only has 3 wires. There is no thermostat wire. My red pwr wire plugs into a pin on a 4 pin square connector along with other different colored wires. I just ordered a new board but it has pins for the pwr & blower. Do I need to rewire things now? Which wires go to those 2 new connectors on the board. Thanks.
I need that video to take the furnace out of the housing
Great video, thanks. My furnace will start, gas lights, however turns off after 1-2 seconds, will duplicate 2 more times and then shutoff. Thoughts?
Oof those ones are tricky. I'd try cleaning and checking the gap on your ignitor first. If that doesn't fix it. Try replacing the ignitor.
Awesome video. Very well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
@@rvrepairwoman Unfortunately the new PCB shows the same symptoms. When it switches to heat I hear a humming noise and do not get 12V on the Blower pin. After a few seconds the diode starts blinking for the air flow/limit fault error. Now I wonder if that humming noise is normal?
I have a Suburban RV furnace less than 2 years old. It runs fine, ignites, reaches temp, fire goes out and blower cools chamber down. As soon as the blower shuts off, the blower immediately restarts. Blower runs about 2 minutes shuts off, restarts. The blower keeps cycling until I pull the fuse out. Once I do that, and reinsert fuse the blower will remain off, until heat is called for again and the problem repeats. Ever heard of this? I've ordered a module board but it has not arrived yet.
OK, got the furnace out of the housing. Any idea on how to order the correct circuit board if it is bad?
I have intermittent issues with with my sf-30f...so far I've switched out all the parts except for the circuit board and the gas valve. My question is: do these valves get sticky? My heater would be working, then turn off like it normally would when the desired temp was reached...then it wouldn't fire back up. Blower and everything comes on like normal, doesn't ignite so the air doesn't get warm. Could the problem be the valve not opening so there's no gas to ignite. It seems like i keep getting it to work and then after cycling it won't fire up again.
Volts only the the PWR Spade. Checked at the A/C where they connect and I have 12v on both wires going to the thermostat and 12v coming back from the thermostat. It connects to a blue wire that I assume goes to the board. When calling for heat shouldn’t I have 12v at the TH pin on the board? Hope this makes sense.
Very helpful video 👍
Any idea on what is making my dometic furnace shoot flames out the exhaust port outside the camper. Igniter lights and keeps clicking like it wont stay lit builds up enough gas and then boom does it once or twice and then kicks off and i have to reset at the thermostat to try and run again. I know it could potentially be several things. I currently have the furnace out and half way disassembled. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also wanted to mention first issue was stove doing the same thing got that fixed. Dirt daubers were in that it got cleaned out stove started working fine and its like the issue reversed to the furnace that i had used 4-5 times right before the stove got fixed. Checked the exhaust port their were also dirt daubers in that. Took furnace out checked that air was flowing through metal pipe with shopvac seemed to blow like it should with no restrictions. Thanks
great video!!! thank you for taking the time to make this... very well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
you are the best i have o on both top and blower ordering a board today... and by the way love the overalls
Awesome! Thank you!
What if I don't have a light on the circuit board lighted? Does that indicate anything?
Hello! Can we get a video on how to test ac thermostat? I'm full time living in my rv and am having ac troubles. I believe it's my thermostat but not 100%. Would like to learn how to test before I spend $270 on a new tstat.
Coming soon!
How do you test the dometic analog thermostat? I get no 12 volt power to the thermostat blue wire at the circuit board at the heater
I am freezing out here ...if I am getting 12v to the board and my blower motor is tested . And nothing happens is there a good chance it is circuit board ?? If so I will just order one. The thermostat is tested as well
I set the T-stat, the fan comes comes on but, no power to board at all. I tested all three wires and they’re dead. So I’m getting no power to the board. I have tested every fuse. It also appears there is plenty of air flow. My furnace is a year 2000 Atwood furnace. Any input would be appreciated.
Hi, I am not receiving 12 V to my circuit board from the thermostat. Could the fact that I installed a heat pump on the roof be part of my problem?
Only getting 6v from thermostat wire, where do i go from there
9.02 Volts on the power pin
Very informative Great job
Glad it was helpful!
atwood 8535-iv replaced everything, sail ,limit , igniter, mother board , cleaned inside and out , it will not get passed sail switch, so i tied a fishing line to it ,drilled a small hole turned it on pull the fishing line a ND bingo it started right up , why does the blower not strong enough to trip the sail switch ? Thank you o@@rvrepairwoman
Hey. So I’m having an issue with my furnace shutting off after running for about 5 minutes. I took the outside cover off and reset the furnace and it instantly turned on I left the cover off for a few minutes and it stay on. It shut off again a few minutes after I put the cover on. If you have an idea what may be causing it that would be greatly appreciated.
Here are my shot in the dark thoughts since I can't be there to look at the furnace:
1. Is there any chance the room has gotten to temperature? The furnace isn't going to continuously run, it will stop once the room gets to temp. Crank the thermostat to 90 and see if it stay on longer than the 5 minutes.
2. Wait until after the furnace stops working and then test your High Temperature Limit Switch (HTLS). I don't have a video on this yet, so let me try to explain how. If you can easy get to the back of the furnace, you should see it sitting there. Carefully disconnect the wires from it and then test it for continuity. If it has continuity while the furnace isn't working then its NOT your problem. If it doesn't have continuity then that guy is your most likely culprit. If you can more easily get to the front of the furnace (like where the sail switch is) then here is what you can do instead to test the HTLS. Look at your sail switch, there should be two wires going to it, one wire is going to lead to the top pin on the circuit board and the other is going to disappear into the furnace. Disconnect the wire the disappears into the furnace and check for continuity between it and the second pin on the circuit board (the thermostat pin). Again if you HAVE continuity while the furnace is off then the HTLS is not your problem. If you don't have continuity then the HTLS is your most likely culprit.
3. Your 3rd option is to try to find a way to get the furnace to run and then fail while you have the circuit board accessible, so you can run the tests I show in the video after it fails. It could be that your circuit board stops sending the right signals at the right time.
@@rvrepairwoman I appreciate the response. It’s definitely not getting to the set temp. I’ll run those checks on the temp switch.
Thank You Great Video --
Help!, I've changed my circuit board and a good sail switch. 0 volts on my thermostat?
can you tell me if I need propane turned on before I start my furnace blower? I realize there will be no gas flow etc but just want to know if the system has to show pressure before it will let blower kick on. I am trying to troubleshoot my system and it comes on intermittently.
You don’t need the propane turned on. The blower fan should still act as normal, you’ll still hear click tick tick tick. You’ll just never light.
@@rvrepairwoman thanks for your reply my issue is I can go out there and turn on heat and adjust thermostat up and hear the click in the AC unit above and then blower will not even turn on and another day I can go out there and poof it works.
Any chance that you do business out of Las Vegas? I need a furnace pro.
Where are you based? I'm physically in LV but I do drive to Boulder City and Pahrump on occasion.
I have a suburban sf30f furnace. I did all the proper tests and the solenoid clicks and does not have power to the blower motor. I replaced the board with the updated version and the solenoid does not click and no power to the blower. I checked the sail switch and the overheat switch or whatever it's called and they are good. So how often are new boards bad? If not what else could it be?
Hmmmm that’s a tricky one. It’s rare that a brand new board is bad but it does happen…
Emily this is Jeff moore I have a atwood hydro flame 8500-IV could you email a copy how to diagnose. I replaced thermostat was bad then it was trying to ignite but wouldn't.
You are very knowledgeable but you ended this presentation at the point of my problem which is the ignitor is coming on and there is flame for about 3. seconds them should off and it's repeated on the 3 attempts. This problem happened all of a sudden so the gas pressure is OK
Is there a part 2 to this topic or do you have a video that explains this situation. I like the way you break things down to step by step. Hopefully, I explained my problem well enough
Thank you I'm a fan, and I'll be watching more of your videos and are you single
When I turn on my furnace on it blows the fuse every time an don’t know we’re to start
HELP, I have nothing no clicking, no ignition and every time I call for heat the fuse blows been a rough couple days not having heat
Wow you look so beautiful in those brown overalls RV Repair woman! 😊 keep up the goodwork with your videos! ☺️
my fan on atwood 8535 won't shut off
What if I get 0v on everything
The furnace is not getting signal from thermostat that is brand new
I’m just Spitballing here, but this is what I would look at
1. Test the thermostat. I’ve had a brand new part be bad, it sucks but it happens.
2. Make SURE the thermostat is actually set to heat, and the temp is set higher than the temp in the RV. Those RV thermostats can be a pain in the butt sometimes.
2. Start tracing back the thermostat wire from the board and see if there is a break somewhere
My border looks way different
Fan doesn't come on at all.
Then the problem is most likely with your sail switch.
@rvrepairwoman It wasn't. it was actually the mother/circuit board. Thank you for your reply! We got it done! About 9 days in some single digit temperatures without it. But we came through!
I don't just feel empowered, I have to do this or I won't survive. Being empowered has nothing to do with that. You wouldn't understand because obviously someone helped you at some point with something.
How is your RV remodeling going?
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