You are the man you explain shit awesome. Just wondering what grit sandpaper you orbital sand with to smooth the whole floor out before staining and finishing? Again great video.
Ooooh, like when a dirt road gets washboarded... It's just keeps getting worse with each successive car that drives over it. Your thoroughness is very much appreciated.
Great video. Been sanding and refinishing hardwood floors for a few years and no one told me about this until I had my first hiccup. I chalked it up to be a dip in the floor. But it turns out it was my sanding methods.
This was very helpful I had guys keep telling me that I was dropping the drum when I wasn’t moving but I knew I wasn’t I just couldn’t figure out why my floors kept having it I kept switch up my ways. Thank you!
Great video my question after you cross cut one way with the 40 grit then the other direction with the 60 do you come and go parallel with the drum sander or just use an orbital sander? could i use an 80 grit with a trio after ? thank you
Brother, those floors are beautifully prepped for stain. You did a superior sanding job using that rental. We use powerful Galaxy Belt Sanders and the idea is the same. We also must do 2 steps during final sanding, 1. lighten drum pressure setting 2. a faster walking step. I subscribed, like and shared your video. ✌🏽
''' Chatter marks '' are caused by an imbalance in the drum, - usually a build-up of sawdust in ONE of the 4 chambers in the drum itself......... use a spanner, take off the drum & then, the cover plate, empty the sawdust, reassemble, - no more chatter......😃 - 30yrs. experience.....
After sanding with the EZ-8, edger and orbital sander: When you fill floor irregularities or damage with stainable wood filler, what grit and sander do you recommend using to level out the wood filler prior to the polyurethane process?
I usually apply the filler after rough sanding with 36, or 40 grit. And again after 60 grit if needed. Square buff should be able to remove whatever remains on floor after that, or use palm sander to get out anything left. 60, 80 or 100 grit.
Yeah its from dropping the drum too hard, ease the drum down into the floor rather than pulling the handle all the way down immediately creates excess pressure on the expanding roller and the extra grip combined causes it to sorta bounce or jump causing a skittering effect
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 I would think I could pull out with 8o grit no matter what. I should be able to drum sand in any direction to get a flat plane and then get nice with the grain with 100 grit along with the grain. Really. I should be able to surface with 80 any way I want and pull it out with the finish.
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 what grit do you recommend for the edging? Are there grits we can skip on the edging, especially if we have a very fast rmp?
This is interesting. I once talked to a dedicated floor guy who said all his jobs had chatter marks. This video explains why. I only had chatter marks on the first pass of the used DU-8, and I was ignorant of the cause, which turned out I had the recessed bar upside-down and it wasn't recessed... Long story short, I found if I waddled like a duck, slowly during the forward pass, it minimized the chatter and the cupped board high spots. I figured it out and flipped the retaining bar, but I still waddle on the forward stroke (on the theory that slightly sanding against the grain is more aggressive on the high spots, and that a more random forward pass will look better and be more productive per minute of sanding. Sanding strictly at an angle, alternating as you do, should be better on floors with more cupping. Also, your slight angle makes more sense to my brain, regarding turn around and consistency, than the more aggressive angles other UA-cam floor guys demonstrate. I am far more likely to try this. The information will come in handy when I need to rent an ez-8.
Criss cross pattern plows old ridges and it progressively get less noticeable the higher the grit. A circular pad at end. Drum side towards stain always go left to right this way.
Chattet happens for prolly 20 different reasons. A professional hummel will leave no chatter when sanding with the grain. I can use both the sheets and cut outs and achieve no chatter. i only sand at 45s if the floor is buckled or if theres a strong finish. But chatter happens for many different reasons. Theres many different ways to sand achieveing the same results.
You are the man you explain shit awesome. Just wondering what grit sandpaper you orbital sand with to smooth the whole floor out before staining and finishing? Again great video.
I finish sand with 80 grit on the OBS 18 but you can do 100, or 120 if you want. I 220 grit screen sand between coats of finish. Thanks for watching!
So you do 40 and 60 on the drum, then 80 on the orbital?
Ooooh, like when a dirt road gets washboarded... It's just keeps getting worse with each successive car that drives over it. Your thoroughness is very much appreciated.
A demonstration would be nice, thanks!
About to tackle my floor project tomorrow, this was super helpful. Thanks for the tips
Great video. Been sanding and refinishing hardwood floors for a few years and no one told me about this until I had my first hiccup. I chalked it up to be a dip in the floor. But it turns out it was my sanding methods.
Very helpful information. I was wondering if it'd be a good idea to use a rotary sander to finish out.
Yes finish with an orbital sander.
@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 Yeah I saw that part at the end. Sorry I should have included that in my precious comment.
Very helpful tip and that floor is beautiful
This was very helpful I had guys keep telling me that I was dropping the drum when I wasn’t moving but I knew I wasn’t I just couldn’t figure out why my floors kept having it I kept switch up my ways. Thank you!
Glad it helped Clay👍
Great video my question after you cross cut one way with the 40 grit then the other direction with the 60 do you come and go parallel with the drum sander or just use an orbital sander? could i use an 80 grit with a trio after ? thank you
Yes parallel on final passes, finish with 80 grit on orbital sander.
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 should i go parallel using 80 with drum sander then 80 with orbital
Brother, those floors are beautifully prepped for stain.
You did a superior sanding job using that rental.
We use powerful Galaxy Belt Sanders and the idea is the same. We also must do 2 steps during final sanding,
1. lighten drum pressure setting
2. a faster walking step.
I subscribed, like and shared your video. ✌🏽
Galaxy sanders are amazing..I used them when I started in the trade in the early 90's...7.5 horse power kicks..
''' Chatter marks '' are caused by an imbalance in the drum, - usually a build-up of sawdust in ONE of the 4 chambers in the drum itself......... use a spanner, take off the drum & then, the cover plate, empty the sawdust, reassemble, - no more chatter......😃 - 30yrs. experience.....
Should I do it the same way on so called herringbone flor?
multi directional plank layout on those floors so you'd have to
Not sure if I’ll get a response but is this with engineered hardwood or can this same process be done on red oak
Both
After sanding with the EZ-8, edger and orbital sander: When you fill floor irregularities or damage with stainable wood filler, what grit and sander do you recommend using to level out the wood filler prior to the polyurethane process?
I usually apply the filler after rough sanding with 36, or 40 grit.
And again after 60 grit if needed. Square buff should be able to remove whatever remains on floor after that, or use palm sander to get out anything left. 60, 80 or 100 grit.
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 thank you!
Yeah its from dropping the drum too hard, ease the drum down into the floor rather than pulling the handle all the way down immediately creates excess pressure on the expanding roller and the extra grip combined causes it to sorta bounce or jump causing a skittering effect
Can I cross cut with 40 grit down a wall and still pull it out with the orbital sander?
You’ll need to edger the perimeter
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 I would think I could pull out with 8o grit no matter what. I should be able to drum sand in any direction to get a flat plane and then get nice with the grain with 100 grit along with the grain.
Really. I should be able to surface with 80 any way I want and pull it out with the finish.
Grain should not matter at 80 grit. Grain should matter only when I want stain. Even then I should be able to change things.
The Goat
Are you saying you hand orbital the whole floor?
No, only edger lines, and drum stop marks.
Can you use that sander on a outside wood deck? Thx
If the deck is perfectly flat yes, if not it'll damage the drum, also you can't sand over screws or nails.
Do you cut on an angle for the final o/pass with 100grit? Or go straight with the grain?
Straight, then orbital sand entire floor.
Thanks for watching!
Great video. For prefinished floors what paper do you recommend for the EZ8?
Start with 36, or 40, if the abrasive breaks down too quickly drop it to 24 grit. After progress to 60.
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 what grit do you recommend for the edging? Are there grits we can skip on the edging, especially if we have a very fast rmp?
16 grit all day for aluminum oxide, prefinished
I have sanding floors for 40 years .I use flet on my drumsander.
Felt on what? The drum?
do you ever use filler in gaps ?
For holes yes, and some deep gaps.
This is interesting. I once talked to a dedicated floor guy who said all his jobs had chatter marks. This video explains why.
I only had chatter marks on the first pass of the used DU-8, and I was ignorant of the cause, which turned out I had the recessed bar upside-down and it wasn't recessed... Long story short, I found if I waddled like a duck, slowly during the forward pass, it minimized the chatter and the cupped board high spots. I figured it out and flipped the retaining bar, but I still waddle on the forward stroke (on the theory that slightly sanding against the grain is more aggressive on the high spots, and that a more random forward pass will look better and be more productive per minute of sanding.
Sanding strictly at an angle, alternating as you do, should be better on floors with more cupping. Also, your slight angle makes more sense to my brain, regarding turn around and consistency, than the more aggressive angles other UA-cam floor guys demonstrate. I am far more likely to try this.
The information will come in handy when I need to rent an ez-8.
That makes sense.
Liked and subscribed!
Thank you!
skip to 5:20
Why would you get chatter marks with a belt machine ?
I've never had a problem with chattering.
Is it just not enough of a step down.
Good point, thanks for watching .
U gotta water pop.
struggling on why the chatter marks can't exist at a 2 degree angle
Criss cross pattern plows old ridges and it progressively get less noticeable the higher the grit. A circular pad at end. Drum side towards stain always go left to right this way.
Don't struggle, accept it as fact!
Chattet happens for prolly 20 different reasons. A professional hummel will leave no chatter when sanding with the grain. I can use both the sheets and cut outs and achieve no chatter. i only sand at 45s if the floor is buckled or if theres a strong finish. But chatter happens for many different reasons. Theres many different ways to sand achieveing the same results.
Use chaulk crayon or pencil and so u dont forget where chatter marks are that need fixing
so i went straight on my 36 cut, can i now go at an angle at 60?
Angle 36, then straight, angle 60, then straight..then OBS18, 60 then 80 grit
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 When you say straight, do you mean straight only along the edges of the wall? (Thank you for uploading this video!)
@@Nick-xu7gq Yes along wall, and also final passes with 60, 80 grit.
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 thank you. just to clarify, do you angel AND straight passes with the final 60 and 80 grit? or just straight?
@@Nick-xu7gq opposite angle to rough cuts if you’re starting with a lower grit…final passes always straight..
It took 6 minutes to say “sand at an angle”
Thanks for watching William!
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 --- By the way, it is a helpful video. Thanks
@@Simmons2358 Much appreciated William, glad it helped!
Too much talking and no demonstration
Rightttt