Sand a Floor with a Drum Sander and Edger
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- Step by step instructions - no worries, you can do it! Find a million more super helpful articles, ideas, and tips at www.peteshardwoodfloors.com/.
Kadee Macey (who walks you through this video) of Minnesota's Pete's Hardwood Floors has been called the Sander Rental Goddess by her customers. She's happy to provide divine help - give her a ring at 651-698-5888, or stop by the store at 186 Fairview Avenue North, St. Paul MN 55104. - Навчання та стиль
Best intro video on the web! I wish you’d make more like this! And I love that your presenter is a woman. She’s very approachable and informative. She gave me confidence to help m do my own floors this summer!
I agree with everyone. BEST video for sanding a floor! Now I have the confidence of using a drum and edge sander.
Thank you!!!!
good luck you will need it
@@ezekiel-pj6st all the evidence is right there.
Just finished our 1000sqft ish red oak hardwood floor which is about 50 years old and never been taken care of by the previous/original owner. Cupping and crowning, discoloration and everywhere and many water marks and maybe even pet stain.
It's my first time doing this and it took about 4 days, technically 5 because I was dumb enough to listen to the hardware store guys and got a square buff, spend half a day on it, and just took some of the poly away, exchanged it for a random orbital, didn't do much better, returned it and went back the next day and got the belt sander. But excluding that, 2 days sanding(Belt sander 1.5 day, edger 0.5 day), 1 day taking care of the filler, corners and little mistakes done while sanding, and the last day was about 2 hours polishing and the rest cleaning.
Out of the three, the polisher definitely has the highest learning curve. On a scale of 1-10, 1 being the easiest, polisher is like a 8 or 9, edger is like a 2, belt sander is a 3. Gotta lift/push it just right and follow it closely or it'll draw a circle around you. I tried first on just the white pad, that was easy enough to control. Putting the screen on made it push me back and drawing circles around me, while the pad didn't do anything but go left and right. But it is really not aggressive at all in terms of eat away wood. After 15-20 trial and errors, I got it just right finally. And the trials didn't really do anything to the wood, maybe left a little scratches here and there, but going over them again gets rid of the marks.
The edger is the easiest, just gotta put a lot of muscle in it (and I mean A LOT, not pushing it down, but using the arm and core to control it from taking off, it gets much easier after the paper get worn down.) I had to rest 5 minutes after using it for maybe 5 minutes. This is definitely the most tiring of them all. To me it's like 20 sets of 10 of deadlifting 200lbs, twice of my sets for workout. And HOLY COW does the low grit eat away floor. about 1/16th inch in 2-3 seconds, I don't think the belt sander can do that that quickly. I just used 80 grit throughout the house, didn't even use the lower grits. And a tip, the fresh sand papers will leave very visible scratches, you don't need to shine light on it to see it. use the worn down sand paper over those areas, the scratches will be gone, unless you shine bright light on it and look very closely.
Belt sander, it's not hard at all, just need to be careful when just starting. People online and in the hardware store made it sound like only pros with a ton of experience has the ability to use it. I made 3 tiny mistakes with the belt sander, all because I accidentally lifted the handle and the belt ate a little wood, but another run made them all disappear.
One thing need to be careful when renting tools that I found out, always check how worn the pad where sand paper goes on. I didn't check on the belt sander, and when I got home, it has only an effective sanding width of about 5 inches, when there should be about 7 or something. Somehow, both sides of the pad are worn down. I had to go back to the hardware store and exchange it.
Hi, I got the tools from Home Depot, there's only 1 kind of square sander, orbital and edger thing.
Can't remember the grits, maybe 80 then 100 then 150.
And the buffer was bought in store, and I did use pole sander by hand.
@@ybh1231 Hi, I also want to DIY my own floor. I'm told 1st use 36 grit or 40, then 60 then 100 grit. Q1:) to save $60 WITHOUT rent square-buffer tool, it is possible to continue smartly use belt sander (which can be rented 7 days for $2xx from HD, since it's already RENTED for 7 days and u still have n days left so it's FREE to continue use it instead of waste another $50-$60 rent square-buffer) 220 or 250-280 sand grits because both are sander, the only diff is the belt sander is much stronger while buffer is kinder more soft sanding with higher grid i.e. 200-280 grit. That's another $60 saving. Q2:) Lowes & many pro quoted/told me after sanding floors going against or flow the grain (I cannot remember which is which: follow or against grain or 90 degree? It's confusing! And how do u find out the direction of grain?!), the 1st thing is clean then put on a STAIN. After 8-24 hrs the stain dry, then apply 1st coat of polyurethane. So Q is did u also PUT A COAT of wood Stain 1st before put poly? Lastly, after 2+ hrs the 1st poly coat dry, then some said LIGHTLY SAND IT, clean it then apply 2nd coat; repeat slightly sand it again during EACH COAT of poly, then apply 3rd coat of poly. Always put more than 3 coats of poly. Some poly does NOT require sanding between coats. That's what I'm told from many diff pro. It's confusing! Hire a professional will cost me over $3,xxx for 765 sq-ft floor in CA. And all of my Landlord (LL) friends warn me DO NOT DIY, certain jobs must hire pro, just pay them $4k let pro do the job, b/c the machine is too easy damage your floor which cost u more $ to replace. Almost 4 out 4 LL all told me don't DIY, must hire pro do it, they scare me by saying they own 100 units run 20+ yrs rental never DIY for floor resurface and paint 30 ft exterior by mini scaffold or climb ladder DIY (it's crazily expensive robbery for a paint job cost up to $20k=can use it for a down payment in small town; and 95% painters do NOT remove all paints so their paint job only last 7 yrs, no good. I want to use paint shaver strip to wood then paint will last 20+ yrs) b/c if hire cheap workers w/o workers-comp insurance if injure/die then u loss whole house or whole floor damage by DIY floor wrong. But both jobs cost tons of $ from $4k to $20k for a 3 stories paint job or floor job! Pls advise! Thx.
All I have to say is if you think edging is easy your floor looks like shit, it takes a long time to learn how to run one properly and do a good job. The edging makes the difference between a good job and a bad one most of the time, and is most difficult part of sanding floors.
Yeah, about to finish my sanding today. Didn't realize how much prep work was needed unlike this perfectly setup floor in the showroom.. I had nails and staples everywhere from the previous owners carpet that had to bet set or pulled, gunk was built up around the edges that has to be scrubbed off first otherwise it shortens the life of your paper, had to replace one floor board that was shot. Other then that great video to learn how to use machines my floor is turning out really well. Ohhhh and buy more paper then needed and just return the rest!
Kadee, you are one of the best teachers I've seen here on youtube! Thanks for your work on this video. I'll be sharing it with my employees!
Just wanted to let people know I have found this to the best step by step instructions for a newb on using a drum sander. After watching countless clip’s going over just about nothing, it was very refreshing to have someone go over everything so completely. I am working on a 100 + year old house with much damage to the hardwood floors. The wood is still in great shape if I can just strip back few decades lol. If they do come out great, you should get some of the credit!!!! Thank You!
Did u guys also like me use whole body's weight (100+ lbs) to push a flashlight's handle to test/check floor plank (in middle of every 6-inch nails)? It seems every plank need to put another nail down in middle of every 6 inch nails because seems every plank will bend under 100+ lbs push. Or just leave it as normally it is w/o put extra nails. If put every 3 inch another nail hold every 5/16" x 2" oak plank down, the floor will become ugly w/ too many nails. Hmm... I'm new to this, try to save $4k DIY, any input, thx. 1st I use my foot/high-heel to check then I use flashlight handle push to check. Here is my video show what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/KBzFkDPibUQ/v-deo.html
ALSO, BTW, reply to your cross-cut: I FIND OUT it seems I deep straight cut with the grain is better than 45 degree cross cut, just push the sander SLOWER pace on the cupped area with straight cut will do a much better smooth out than 45-degree cross cut, my math/theory prove my idea should be right;). Here is a video I start out like everybody said cross-cut (45 degree) 1st, later I've learned just straight cut with SLOWER pace is much better achieve professional smooth surface 1x or cut 2x, this method should win over cross cut. What do u think or advise for sever cupped floor: ua-cam.com/video/3XH2-9XOexU/v-deo.html ... Thanks:). How is your DIY result? Cheers to we all DIYER share knowledge b/c all friends are naysayers said pay prof $4k, it cannot be done :).
Well produced instructional video on proper floor sanding using a drum/edge sander. Great step by step detail and video.
I am much less anxious about taking on this project because of your website and video's. Thank you!
Great video. Just about to start sanding an old Rimu floor. Thanks for all the tips and advise, very helpful 😎
This right here just shows you the 70s were awesome. The quality of the video is even great for the time.
By far the best video for DIY refinishing! Thorough, knowledgable, and easy to follow. Also read some great comments. I am a seasoned DIYer, and will be refinishing our floors this summer! Thanks for the video...awesome!
Did u guys also like me use whole body's weight (100+ lbs) to push a flashlight's handle to test/check floor plank (in middle of every 6-inch nails)? It seems every plank need to put another nail down in middle of every 6 inch nails because seems every plank will bend under 100+ lbs push. Or just leave it as normally it is w/o put extra nails. If put every 3 inch another nail hold every 5/16" x 2" oak plank down, the floor will become ugly w/ too many nails. Hmm... I'm new to this, try to save $4k DIY, any input, thx. 1st I use my foot/high-heel to check then I use flashlight handle push to check. Here is my video show what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/KBzFkDPibUQ/v-deo.html
ALSO, BTW, reply to your cross-cut: I FIND OUT it seems I deep straight cut with the grain is better than 45 degree cross cut, just push the sander SLOWER pace on the cupped area with straight cut will do a much better smooth out than 45-degree cross cut, my math/theory prove my idea should be right;). Here is a video I start out like everybody said cross-cut (45 degree) 1st, later I've learned just straight cut with SLOWER pace is much better achieve professional smooth surface 1x or cut 2x, this method should win over cross cut. What do u think or advise for sever cupped floor: ua-cam.com/video/3XH2-9XOexU/v-deo.html ... Thanks:). How is your DIY result? Cheers to we all DIYER share knowledge b/c all friends are naysayers said pay prof $4k, it cannot be done :).
Great video! Very informative. We are sanding the whole house this weekend and my husband thinks the square sander is better because its less aggressive. Thanks again!
You are a great teacher Mme,thanks
Watching all of this was very satisfying 😂 and I’m ready to make an attempt
Best video on the interwebs for floor sanding. Thanks.
Super helpful, informative video. Thanks!
I definitely have a new appreciation for the work required to sand/refinish old wood floors to perfection! Great video! Thanks
I wish I saw this last week. I was hesitant to use a drum sander so I rented the big orbital floor sander for my 1952 hardwood floors. Started with 36 grit. Did 2 rounds of that. Finished with 2 rounds of 80 grit. Apparently it didn’t bite hard enough to remove the original polyurethane. I applied a dark stain and it turned out really blotchy. So now I’m debating on just carpeting everything or renting the drum sander and trying to go back over it. I didn’t apply poly yet. Just stain. But apparently I still need to remove the original poly better.
@@ohiodigger4391 that rental machine from home depot doesn't do that great of a job because it doesn't have enough weight, if you notice the other machine in the background that's a hummel. It's a professional machine and weighs almost 300 lbs if not more. I can't explain everything here for you but if you can find a bigger machine you'll have way better results
cowboytintin01 do you think the drum sander from Home Depot would be better to use? I don’t know how heavy it is. Looks heavier though.
@@ohiodigger4391 no the home depot one is the crap one, a tool rental place might have a better one. like a Clarke, or American way better machines
I was at Home Depot today getting some new door knobs and deadbolts. I stopped in the tool rental. Their drum sander is an American actually. I’ll check the Rental Corral store up the street and see if theirs is any different.
Fantastic video really appreciate the knowledge base that I did not know until your video
AWSOME video very informative I'm now ready to start
I love your video!!!
Excellent video.
Awesome tips I seen my Worker just Drop Drum like a Hammer lol most men don't like Advice or Great Tips. I love learning Right way. You should Run for Office They Need you:)
Great video! Thank you.
Great video!
Some sandpaper are directional just look inside the sandpaper roll and look for arrows. This is very important
Just to help out here, when scraping the corners of floor you can successfully use a paint scraper , keeping it sharp with a flat bastard file. The paint scrapers come in various widths from narrow as 1/2 to 2- 1/2" and you can also use a palm sander to do these corners after scraping them.
carbide scrapers are worth the extra money.
Why don't you use a carbon blade scraper for your corners. It cost about $12 for the handle and $8 for a blade and as long as it doesn't hit an nail it's stays sharp four 50 times longer then one of those scrapers you used. I have scraped three or four houses with one carbon blade scraper. Whereas one of those old scrapers like you have you can't get 10 feet and the blade is dull. They sell them at Lowe's and Home Depot. Some paint stores carry them. I wish I had a watch this video before I just bid the job I got. If I can get a 10 by 10 room sanded and ready for stain in 4 hours I'll be good.Best most helpful video out of 10 I have watched
This is wonderfully done. Kudos for your awesome instruction style. Concise, well informed, and expertly executed. 👍🏽
Question: I have a small cottage with pine flooring, that was finished with a polyurethane floor finish. It’s obviously not the hardest of flooring wood but I’m ready to refinish it and get it back to a better condition, just has normal wear and obviously scratches.
Do you recommend with the pibe flooring the same process you instructed here?
And would you steer me away from Rubio mono coat product as a finish?
Thanks!
thank you for the video it was very good
GREAT info; thanks for that! Video is missing its ending, though.... blank from 17:20 on with a bit of video added that is out of synch at around 20:03.
Great video, thank you. Best tutorial out there!
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.. Just about to embark on sanding my Maple floor. I must admit, I'm quite apprehensive, but less so, now I've watched your video. I can't afford to pay someone to do it, and actually, I do most of the repair/maintenance jobs, because I guess I'm slightly jaded ;with could reason though, my experience with so called Tradesmen has been quite negative, and I know, they are not all bad, I've just never met one that can do the job to the standard I require. Good post below, would be nice to see the end result.
I'm the same way Jim, I'm my own worst critic. I find the old saying is true "if you want a job done right, you must do it yourself". It's just a fact in life when you're a person who wants something done to perfection.
learned a lot, thanks
Very nice and informative
I watched this video to confirm im doing the right procedures while sanding a floor. Iv doing it the exact way demonstrated in video. Recently i got a job as a floor sander and the owner told me iv been sanding floors for 8 years all wrong.... In this video you would drum first then edge. This company wants me to edge first then drum. Edging the butts about 18 inch away from wall. Both 36 and 80 grit then come with drum. Pretty nuch the drum was the final sand before you start scraping corners. I understand this methed may work but i want opinions of others.
Excellent video..I suggest a wider scraper for corners.
We are interested in refinishing Bruce 3/4 inch hardwood floors with the engineered beveled edges. To refinish, will the beveled edges require sanding all the way so they are flush, thus eliminating the bevel, or can a lighter sanding be done, barely removing the old finish and stain? I see this is an older post, but any suggestions would be helpful.
generally, you always should cut with the grain (or length), however sometimes the wood is cupped of warped, diagonal cut first to smooth out the wood's high spots
Did u guys also like me use whole body's weight (100+ lbs) to push a flashlight's handle to test/check floor plank (in middle of every 6-inch nails)? It seems every plank need to put another nail down in middle of every 6 inch nails because seems every plank will bend under 100+ lbs push. Or just leave it as normally it is w/o put extra nails. If put every 3 inch another nail hold every 5/16" x 2" oak plank down, the floor will become ugly w/ too many nails. Hmm... I'm new to this, try to save $4k DIY, any input, thx. 1st I use my foot/high-heel to check then I use flashlight handle push to check. Here is my video show what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/KBzFkDPibUQ/v-deo.html
ALSO, BTW, reply to your cross-cut: I FIND OUT it seems I deep straight cut with the grain is better than 45 degree cross cut, just push the sander SLOWER pace on the cupped area with straight cut will do a much better smooth out than 45-degree cross cut, my math/theory prove my idea should be right;). Here is a video I start out like everybody said cross-cut (45 degree) 1st, later I've learned just straight cut with SLOWER pace is much better achieve professional smooth surface 1x or cut 2x, this method should win over cross cut. What do u think or advise for sever cupped floor: ua-cam.com/video/3XH2-9XOexU/v-deo.html ... Thanks:).
I understand the reason for doing the first cut diagonally. What I do not understand is what happens when you get into the corners! If you are moving diagonally, you are going to have a big area that is unsanded due to the 90 degree angle of two walls.
Since you cant you dont. The edger works those spots and then you hand scrape what the edger cannot.
How do we get the edges with the buffer - do we need to do the edges by hand, or will the buffer do a sufficient job?
Also, how often do we need to flip or change the buffer screen?
Had a question for you guys: Where can one purchase those Maroon Pads that are placed on the edge sander at 8:10? Been looking for them online and at the big box stores but can't find them!
I've noticed that the edge sander doesn't quite go to the edge as it's left the sealer there, how do you get to the edge of the skirting?
What type of stain or mineral oil do you apply after sanding? Thx
With a drum/belt sander shouldn't you go with the grain and not diagonal or do you wanna do a short of cross hatch pattern to ensure the floor is flat? I've always run with the grain is there cons to doing it this way?
I like the manual transmission analogy
Always buff after you sand to touch up any marks the machines may leave.
Great video! Quick question? Have you ever tried sanding belts/discs from Maverick Abrasives? I recently switched over to them from Norton & the belts have been performing significantly better...and their pricing was 20% better, believe it or not
garrettaryan Nortons just a step up from 3M, but that papers from Johnson Abrasives. I guess I could recommend Maverick if your on the west coast, Johnson if your on the East.
what is the purpose for the maroon pad on edger?
Thanks for this great tutorial! I have a question for anyone out there who’s done this... I weigh slightly less than the drum sander. My guy friends don’t think I can handle it (though I’m a strong girl). Honestly to me it looks more difficult to control the buffer. At this point it’s a good laugh and a bit of a bet... Can anyone out there advise on this, lol? Thanks.
If your guy friends wiegh less than you, have them sit on the buffer. Weight helps with the bad sanding job you did as a woman. Or just stop.
Have a beer, relax.. let her buck.. it’s pretty easy. About as complicated as mowing the lawn.. keep your fingers away from that drum..
Hey Lauren, it's been 6 months. Did you try it? How did you do? I need courage.
@@scottsscotty Scott before commenting please rephrase to address her question about being light in weight and not due to her sex as a woman. @laurenho Some of the drum sanders come with weights which may be of help to you. I think, as stated in the video, in regard to the drum sander the hardest part is when to put the sander to the floor. You can in this video see it pushing her forward and the buffer side to side
thank you very much. every time I used the buffer I used to dread it... not any more.
why do you use the maroon pad on the edger?
Yajaira Rodriguez it leaves a cleaner/smoother cut on the floor
Is it okay to go from 36 grit sand paper to 80 grit or should you go 36,60,80? Also if i'm using wood filler, I apply that after 36 grit in the case of (36 to 80) but in the case of ( 36 to 60 to 80) do I still use it after 36 or after 60? Thanks!
you should go from 36, 60, 80 and 120 if you want to get the smoothest finish on your floor. apply the wood filler after the 60 or 80 but make sure you spread it out as smooth as possible and then go back over it with your final finish grit.
Wood flooring 101. The concept of sanding a wood floor is to remove the finish and leave as much flooring in tact as possible. There is a difference between a professional hardwood floor refinisher and a hacker. Or better worded floor grinder. Hackers have defaults in which they go to treating every floor the same. They always start with the same paper and end with the same paper and know little to nothing about the grits in between. Not all floor species nor finishes are the same. Therefore they should not be treated as such.
Depending on the wood species as well as finish dictates the finish grit. Once the finish grit is established you work backwards skipping one grit in order to gauge what grit paper to begin with. In other words this red oak floor in which they are doing clear poly as a top coat should finish up at 100 both drum / belt sander and edger. As well as should be screened with 100 grit. If the floor was to have a stain applied the grit should be dropped down 1 grit. In this case 80 grit. Stain needs more hook or tooth to bite onto in order to properly adhere as compared to clear finishes. Therefore the grain needs to be left open more. But again this floor with clear poly should finish up with 100 grit. Skipping 1 grit backwards would be 60. Pros would place a 60 grit paper on then take a pass or two in order to determine if 60 in fact will take it off. If it does not they again would skip 1 grit backwards now bringing them down to 40 grit. Again with 40 grit make a few passes and see if that takes off 80% of the finish or more. If it does that's where to start. So to suggest defaults of 36,60,80,120 is not only the wrong grit sequence, it's far to much sanding of the floor.
Nah when you sand you are really cutting triangular grooves and the higher the grit the shallower the groove and the idea is to progressively use higher grits to make the grooves you just cut half as deep and make twice as many grooves per inch.
The higher you go in grit the smaller the V grooves in the wood get until they are too small to be seen by the human eye and are smooth to the touch.
Using this thinking is the safest way to not waste your time and it's added benefit is that your finish will come out better.
In the end just remember the work systematic. Whatever you end up doing use that methodology to do your whole floor and even if it doesn't come out the best you have a uniform product that tricks the average person into thinking it is perfect at first glance.
Joel Patterson as a rule, for a dyi, 36, 60, 80, 100 will be fine. Fill after the 60 cut. And if you are careful, take your time and give attention to detail, your results will be 25% of what a professional floor sander will get. If you're lucky. That's not being snarky, it's just realistic.
Greta video
Would it be wise to use a orbital sander?
Along the edges to blend big machining to edging if you plan to stain or if your doing a staircase then Yes, you need to use an orbital otherwise it just isn't necessary if you are just refinishing without stain. If you don't orbital sand the edges before applying stain, it will be lighter on the edges because of the 2 different ways the floor was sanded. 1 with a belt the other disc sanded. Therefore blending with an orbital is required unless one has a different sanding method.
Would be helpful if I found this video before I sanded my floor.
Why aren’t you sanding with the grain?
I want to be on that "Wall of Fame" behind her.
Hi, thanks for the video. I thought you do 30 grit FIRST and then 60 grit.Please comment. Ty
Yes always lower number followed by higher numbers. She was demonstrating that the 60 was not sharp enough to start with thats why she went 60 first, to show that it is wrong.
you always need to buff a floor after you fine sand it your supposed to start witg the edges and run in cross grain to get out any chatter from the drum then lay it off with grain
Did u guys also like me use whole body's weight (100+ lbs) to push a flashlight's handle to test/check floor plank (in middle of every 6-inch nails)? It seems every plank need to put another nail down in middle of every 6 inch nails because seems every plank will bend under 100+ lbs push. Or just leave it as normally it is w/o put extra nails. If put every 3 inch another nail hold every 5/16" x 2" oak plank down, the floor will become ugly w/ too many nails. Hmm... I'm new to this, try to save $4k DIY, any input, thx. 1st I use my foot/high-heel to check then I use flashlight handle push to check. Here is my video show what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/KBzFkDPibUQ/v-deo.html
ALSO, BTW, reply to your cross-cut: I FIND OUT it seems I deep straight cut with the grain is better than 45 degree cross cut, just push the sander SLOWER pace on the cupped area with straight cut will do a much better smooth out than 45-degree cross cut, my math/theory prove my idea should be right;). Here is a video I start out like everybody said cross-cut (45 degree) 1st, later I've learned just straight cut with SLOWER pace is much better achieve professional smooth surface 1x or cut 2x, this method should win over cross cut. What do u think or advise for sever cupped floor: ua-cam.com/video/3XH2-9XOexU/v-deo.html ... Thanks:). How is your DIY result? Cheers to we all DIYER share knowledge b/c all friends are naysayers said pay prof $4k, it cannot be done :).
The biggest danger is running over the cord.. drum marks can be feathered out very easy.
janser leopard,belt sander
It does matter the sandpaper goes on the drum sander wrong in the first 20 secs ..!
suppose to sand with the grain lol
Need to finish the video.
There's no point to "cross cut". A floor unless its really warped.
Its called "Crossing Out" trouble areas or spots......Stains.cupped/crowned spots in the floor.
Mike Wolgamott wrong. Angle cuts the floor consistently and evenly, flattening out the floor.
Murr @ 6:42?? lol
A bit ferret like..
Gtrestb stuff
)
Not the way u edge a floor. U are going across the boards when u should be turning front of edger towards the wall.edger swirls have to be bad.after edging u need to palm sand edger swirls out
It’s just not that easy. If you applied stain to that floor it would look like ass. These are salesman not floorsanders. You cannot learn a trade in a weekend
learn how to sharpen a scraper its not properly sharped that's why its squeaky
This is a comedy. Never ever cross cut with 36 grit
Amen!!! With the Hummel I cross out with used 80/100 sometimes used 60 grit in some real bad areas. The 60 cleans up easy, edging or big machining with the grain of course. The first thing I do onced big machine is set up on a refinishing job is "cross out all the closets & other areas so when time for edging, its a breeze for me cause I did all the grinding with the big machine & it's never a problem taking out the belt marks because the grit isn't any lower than 60. Speeds things up a lot especially when you do everything from start to finish as I do. The 1 man show!!
there are situations where you have to crosscut with 36grit
James Bach read the Hummel manual. Cut with a 36 or a 40 on a 7-10 degree angle, more if necessary. That flattens the floor while reducing dishout
great video .but after 22 years of working this yob, i can tell do something else
first off this is NOT A BELT SANDER. It uses a coil IF want to see a REAL belt sander look at a HUMMEL and you will see the difference. Next is you don't sand a floor at 25 to 40 degrees like miss expert is doing NWFA recommends 15 degrees to keep from getting cross grain scaring. how do I know ? 45 years of experience and training that's how !!!!!!
Love the way she assumes her audience is stupid from the start and needs to explain how to fit the sandpaper 😂🤣😂😂 and her condescending mono tone voice creates more friction than the sanding
Thankfully you don't work for me😂😂
The dust from the sanding is explosive but it does not spontaneously combust. Needs an ignition source. If you're going to make a how to tape learn how to first. Thanks anyways.
what a dick
The dust from sanding isn't explosive. When the dust is thicker then the surrounding air that causes what's called a flash fire. You do not need and ignition source in the general sense of a match for instance. If a sander bag on a floor sander get's to full, there's less air then dust at that point. Because of that temps rise along with the old finish mixed in. That's all you need to ignite.
sand your floors yourself!..then call me to redo them and fix all the damage you did!
This is Ridiculous I'm so tired of seeing videos of Amateurs teaching,I just dont understand , these people know more than the average homeowner and that's great it seems like they talked to a pro and got a few tips ,it is obvious they have just learned how to run these machines and that fine but in NO WAY ARE THEY PROFESSIONALS and again they did better than the typical homeowners but why why why why do they think they should be teaching ,PLEASE STOP TEACHING IF YOU ARE NOT A PRO, the sad part is it looks like they have some sort of flooring store they probably sell hardwood and try getting sand jobs from the customers that are buying wood from them, any way I know these tips seem good they are not and whoever follows these tip will find its nowhere near that simple I mean she obviously had some tips from someone and still has no idea how to run that machine she was so scared it took forever for her to put that lever down that not even a full size machine its only a 110 it's made for homeowners the rules she is following is for a big professional 220 machine and still when you have experience you dont drop the drum that slowly, seeing her scrape a corner was ridiculous it was making that sound because clearly she has NO EXPERIENCE sharpening the scraper , anyway like i said it's fine that they are trying but it's very irritating that they are try to seem like PROFESSIONALS and try to teach something that takes a lot experience to master.
You make to difcult is mani ways to make simply that is not good video