Great video! I notice no cable tie on the fuel hoses. I recommend adding one to avoid the new belt slicing through these. Seen a couple of guys on the Facebook group who have had this happen.
Really missing my Freelander 2 needs anew rear subframe but it’s to cold and wet up here in not so sunny Scotland 🏴 hopefully have it done before Easter in the meantime I’ll have to put up with the D4 lol😅
I had to replace my idle pully. After trying for over an hour to get the belt back realised that the tensioner needs to be held in a vice so it can be reset with an allen key holding the spring back. Took me just a further ten minuets to set everything up.
I've heard a few people saying about needing to put theirs in a vice to reset it and to put the pin back in. We have had the new belt off since, and while it was a bit of struggle, I didn't find it too bad. It's a tip I'm going to keep in mind in case I don't get so lucky. 😁👍🏻 - Scott
Hi guys, great video. I've just discovered the source of my rattle at low revs appears to be the tensioner. I haven't heard of what can go wrong if it fails so just wondering if it needs changing asap?
Hi Stephen 👋. I'm not a trained mechanic so take my words with a pinch of salt. If it's complaining then it's probably best to get it sorted sooner rather than later. Is it something that will destroy itself in the next day, week or month? Probably not. 😃 Best case scenario if it does give up the ghost, you'll just get a slack belt. Worse case scenario? The belt will break, take out some sensors and plugs, smash the cambelt housing and cause irreparable damage to the engine. 🤣 While you're there, I'd also swap out the idler pulley and do the belt if it hasn't been done for a while. It saves coming back to that area twice or three times. 😁 But that's just my advice. I have seen that you've posted on the Freel2 forum too so you'll get much more knowledgeable answers from those ladies and gentleman over there. 😁 - Scott
That sounds like a not too bad of an idea and one which I'll keep logged for the next time one of these decides to expire, which ultimately I'm sure it will 😄. - Scott
I stripped my belt tensioner M10 bolt thread last week. Grace and Loctite 603 holding it in at the moment, but the tensioner is completely still after replacing my generator/alternator overrun pulley. Plan on cutting a 13mm hole and inserting a self-tapping threaded insert soon to repair it instead of replacing the bracket.
Hi Dozer 👋. That sounds like you've been having a lot of "fun," said very sarcastically. 😁 You sound like you've got it under far more control than what we would have if we were in that position. 😄 I think we would have to have our car recovered to someone who actually knows what they are doing. 😂 Although the grace and loctite made us laugh. 😄 I hope it goes well when you do come to fix it 🤞😀 - Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 hi. Yeah, figuring out the right tool to get into that tight space is my only concern, but hey…anything NOT to strip all those bits to get the cast aluminium bracket out and doing the repair job on the garage floor. And thanks, I do hope it goes well…by that I mean at a minimum a hole drilled true and square else I’m screwed. 122
Hi Karol 👋, We didn't replace it. If the noise we were experiencing persisted after doing this work, we had a brand new alternator on standby. So we would've replaced the whole unit. 😁 Maybe pop over to the Freel2 forum, and have a search or post up on there. The good people over there should be able to help you out. 😀 - Scott
Hi mister help pls My car stalled then started after 20 minutes, what device can I use to see the errors? I think that the battery is because the device showed 12 volts
I'm not a fountain of knowledge when it comes to these things, but I'd suggest an AUTEL system to do diagnostics, but they can be costly to buy. Freelander 2's are notoriously hard on batteries, so your issue could be there. Equally, people have running issues due to the crank sensor causing issues. My advice, if like me, you're not sure what you are doing 😁, take it to someone who does know what they are doing, and hopefully, they will have the issue found and fixed. 😀 - Scott
Try doing this on an i6 ! A lot more time consuming and a lot of dismantling. But at least you don't have to jack the vehicle up and take the wheel off !!
When I looked through the workshop manual before doing this job I couldn't believe just how much work there actually was to do the same job on an i6! If I was wearing a hat, I'd take it off to anyone that does carry the job out. 😁 - Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 I had the tensioner pulley disintegrate taking the belt with it whilst on holiday which left me stranded . I was eventually recovered and the RAC took it to an "approved" garage who charged me £275 to sort.When I picked it up, I told the mechanic that if I had the parts I would've changed it at the roadside. (I always have my socket set etc in the car) . "No chance", he said. A few years later I had a radiator hose burst, so the only way to get to it at the top was to remove everything you would remove to do a belt/ tensioner pulley change,including moving the alternator and air con compressor. What a faff . But I think I spent more time cleaning the debris left from the previous failure. While I was waiting for the radiator hose to arrive, I cleaned the engine thoroughly and removed a few brackets and refurbished them. It's not a job I'd like to do again in a hurry. However, my brother's Sd4's tensioner just went and he wants me to do it for him. So, thanks to you'r video, I'm more than confidant I can tackle it without any bother. Compared to mine, it looks extremely simple. Cheers. Ian
@@ianbeale2527 Why is it that cars seem to know when their owners are on holiday trying to enjoy a nice, stress-free time away. Then they choose that exact moment to go wrong! 😅 Not only that, but they normally do it where there is nowhere to go and eat or outside a Euro Car Parts shop. 😂 It sounds like you made the most of giving the engine some TLC while you were waiting. I just hope something else doesn't then go wrong and you have to revisit the area for a 3rd time. 😄 With the stresses and struggles you've been through, I think the SD4 should be a walk in the park for you. 😀 I think the trickiest bit out of it all is trying to get the new belt around everything because it hasn't developed the stretch that the old ones have in them. 😄 - Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 Well I just had a nice conversation with my brother. He's paying a mobile mechanic £170 to do the job instead of letting me do it for the cost of the parts ! His Sport LE is his pride and joy and I don't think he trusts me with it ! Despite me running and fixing my own Land Rovers for the past 30 years. We've never seen eye to eye since we were kids, he never understood my love of Land Rovers - until I bought my i6. He spent 5 years trying to buy it off me - until I found him his own Freelander ! Strange thing is, he'll always call me for advice, but seems reluctant for me to work on it. 🤣
@@ianbeale2527 I would almost bite off my right arm if I had a brother or even a mate that had worked on Land Rovers for that long! 😅 It's hard enough to find a good mechanic that understands Haldex'es that isn't booked up for the next 8 to 12 weeks. 😂 You really don't see many i6'es on the roads and I think it would confuse my brain to be driven in a Freelander that isn't diesel. 😄 - Scott
Precisely the job I've been putting-off. Thanks for the step-by-step. Much appreciated.
Hahaha, I feel like ever Freelander 2 owner has a list of "jobs that I've been putting off." 😂 No worries @bm7760 👍.
- Scott
Great video! I notice no cable tie on the fuel hoses. I recommend adding one to avoid the new belt slicing through these. Seen a couple of guys on the Facebook group who have had this happen.
Thanks Scott. 👍🏻 When we were doing this job, Alana made a mental note of it. Cable ties solve all of life's issues. 😁
- Scott
Really missing my Freelander 2 needs anew rear subframe but it’s to cold and wet up here in not so sunny Scotland 🏴 hopefully have it done before Easter in the meantime I’ll have to put up with the D4 lol😅
Alana said that if you supply her with tea and biscuits, she'll come and fix it for you because she is a fully fledged mechanic now. 😅
- Scott
👍
I had to replace my idle pully. After trying for over an hour to get the belt back realised that the tensioner needs to be held in a vice so it can be reset with an allen key holding the spring back. Took me just a further ten minuets to set everything up.
I've heard a few people saying about needing to put theirs in a vice to reset it and to put the pin back in. We have had the new belt off since, and while it was a bit of struggle, I didn't find it too bad. It's a tip I'm going to keep in mind in case I don't get so lucky. 😁👍🏻
- Scott
Hi guys, great video. I've just discovered the source of my rattle at low revs appears to be the tensioner. I haven't heard of what can go wrong if it fails so just wondering if it needs changing asap?
Hi Stephen 👋.
I'm not a trained mechanic so take my words with a pinch of salt. If it's complaining then it's probably best to get it sorted sooner rather than later. Is it something that will destroy itself in the next day, week or month? Probably not. 😃
Best case scenario if it does give up the ghost, you'll just get a slack belt. Worse case scenario? The belt will break, take out some sensors and plugs, smash the cambelt housing and cause irreparable damage to the engine. 🤣
While you're there, I'd also swap out the idler pulley and do the belt if it hasn't been done for a while. It saves coming back to that area twice or three times. 😁 But that's just my advice. I have seen that you've posted on the Freel2 forum too so you'll get much more knowledgeable answers from those ladies and gentleman over there. 😁
- Scott
I wonder if you could spin the pulleys / idlers with a short belt and drill to identify the noisy one? Only one way to find out! :-)
That sounds like a not too bad of an idea and one which I'll keep logged for the next time one of these decides to expire, which ultimately I'm sure it will 😄.
- Scott
I stripped my belt tensioner M10 bolt thread last week. Grace and Loctite 603 holding it in at the moment, but the tensioner is completely still after replacing my generator/alternator overrun pulley. Plan on cutting a 13mm hole and inserting a self-tapping threaded insert soon to repair it instead of replacing the bracket.
Hi Dozer 👋.
That sounds like you've been having a lot of "fun," said very sarcastically. 😁 You sound like you've got it under far more control than what we would have if we were in that position. 😄 I think we would have to have our car recovered to someone who actually knows what they are doing. 😂
Although the grace and loctite made us laugh. 😄
I hope it goes well when you do come to fix it 🤞😀
- Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 hi. Yeah, figuring out the right tool to get into that tight space is my only concern, but hey…anything NOT to strip all those bits to get the cast aluminium bracket out and doing the repair job on the garage floor.
And thanks, I do hope it goes well…by that I mean at a minimum a hole drilled true and square else I’m screwed.
122
Hi did you replace freewheel alternator clutch? Possible to replace avoid take out alternator ?
Hi Karol 👋,
We didn't replace it. If the noise we were experiencing persisted after doing this work, we had a brand new alternator on standby. So we would've replaced the whole unit. 😁
Maybe pop over to the Freel2 forum, and have a search or post up on there. The good people over there should be able to help you out. 😀
- Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4thank you!
Hi mister help pls My car stalled then started after 20 minutes, what device can I use to see the errors? I think that the battery is because the device showed 12 volts
I'm not a fountain of knowledge when it comes to these things, but I'd suggest an AUTEL system to do diagnostics, but they can be costly to buy.
Freelander 2's are notoriously hard on batteries, so your issue could be there. Equally, people have running issues due to the crank sensor causing issues.
My advice, if like me, you're not sure what you are doing 😁, take it to someone who does know what they are doing, and hopefully, they will have the issue found and fixed. 😀
- Scott
Try doing this on an i6 ! A lot more time consuming and a lot of dismantling. But at least you don't have to jack the vehicle up and take the wheel off !!
When I looked through the workshop manual before doing this job I couldn't believe just how much work there actually was to do the same job on an i6! If I was wearing a hat, I'd take it off to anyone that does carry the job out. 😁
- Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 I had the tensioner pulley disintegrate taking the belt with it whilst on holiday which left me stranded . I was eventually recovered and the RAC took it to an "approved" garage who charged me £275 to sort.When I picked it up, I told the mechanic that if I had the parts I would've changed it at the roadside. (I always have my socket set etc in the car) . "No chance", he said.
A few years later I had a radiator hose burst, so the only way to get to it at the top was to remove everything you would remove to do a belt/ tensioner pulley change,including moving the alternator and air con compressor. What a faff . But I think I spent more time cleaning the debris left from the previous failure. While I was waiting for the radiator hose to arrive, I cleaned the engine thoroughly and removed a few brackets and refurbished them.
It's not a job I'd like to do again in a hurry. However, my brother's Sd4's tensioner just went and he wants me to do it for him. So, thanks to you'r video, I'm more than confidant I can tackle it without any bother. Compared to mine, it looks extremely simple. Cheers. Ian
@@ianbeale2527 Why is it that cars seem to know when their owners are on holiday trying to enjoy a nice, stress-free time away. Then they choose that exact moment to go wrong! 😅 Not only that, but they normally do it where there is nowhere to go and eat or outside a Euro Car Parts shop. 😂
It sounds like you made the most of giving the engine some TLC while you were waiting. I just hope something else doesn't then go wrong and you have to revisit the area for a 3rd time. 😄
With the stresses and struggles you've been through, I think the SD4 should be a walk in the park for you. 😀 I think the trickiest bit out of it all is trying to get the new belt around everything because it hasn't developed the stretch that the old ones have in them. 😄
- Scott
@@ScottandAlana4x4 Well I just had a nice conversation with my brother. He's paying a mobile mechanic £170 to do the job instead of letting me do it for the cost of the parts ! His Sport LE is his pride and joy and I don't think he trusts me with it ! Despite me running and fixing my own Land Rovers for the past 30 years.
We've never seen eye to eye since we were kids, he never understood my love of Land Rovers - until I bought my i6. He spent 5 years trying to buy it off me - until I found him his own Freelander ! Strange thing is, he'll always call me for advice, but seems reluctant for me to work on it. 🤣
@@ianbeale2527 I would almost bite off my right arm if I had a brother or even a mate that had worked on Land Rovers for that long! 😅 It's hard enough to find a good mechanic that understands Haldex'es that isn't booked up for the next 8 to 12 weeks. 😂 You really don't see many i6'es on the roads and I think it would confuse my brain to be driven in a Freelander that isn't diesel. 😄
- Scott
👍