I'd been struggling to remove my pedals for a couple of weeks and tried every technique I saw online. But using my heel to apply the force to the spanner was the only thing that worked. Thanks Tony!
Was struggling with my brothers pedals broke a Allen tool. The step down on the wrench technique worked great broke both pedals loose this way ! Thanks
Those are some excellent tips, Tony! I've done the 2x4 trick once or twice before, and if you got an old tube handy wrap it around the board on the area that will contact the frame or wrap the frame around the area that the board will contact. you can even use a t-shirt or rag to help prevent damage.
Excellent suggestion. I have a new way of using the board, wrench, cheater bar and the edge of a cinderblock wall which I'll put into another video. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I removed the crank and let some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil seep on the back of the pedal shaft for 24 hours in a sink. Then some traditional leverage got them off once the cranks were reinstalled. I tried to find some CRC Knock'er Loose in Toronto but it was nearly the value of the bike ! I degreased the crank threads and greased the shaft threads with lithium grease so I (hopefully) never have to do this again. At least on *that* bike. CRC looks like it operates faster though so in a bike shop context it is absolutely worth it.
@@louis-ericsimard7659 Liquid Wrench is a great penetrating oil. I like the idea of taking off the cranks and letting the cranks, adding the Liquid Wrench and letting it soak overnight. You could then replace the cranks to give you more leverage in removing the pedals. Thanks for the feedback. Safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speedI sprayed some penetrant overnight, then used your first method - pushed the spanner with my heel. It took a little bit to line everything up but once that was done it was pretty straightforward.
Good video. One important reminder. The pedal on the left side loosens in the opposite direction. Easy to forget that as my husband did himself and wanted me put that in here.
Good point. If you push down with your heel on the pedal wrench handle on the drive side, you are turning the pedal spindle counter clockwise. If you push with your heel on the left side, you are turning the spindle clockwise - which loosens the pedal. Thanks for your comment. Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you sir. Important to remember also the bike companies don't do that to 'mess with your head' or anything. They have to make the thread on the left side "backwards" because if they didn't, you'd have to tighten the pedal on that side once a month or so. I.E. you'd be loosening the pedal a miniscule amount with each cadence.
Leaning with my back against a wall, I placed my left foot onto my left pedal and my right foot onto the end of my extension and was finally able to free my left pedal.
Can be done, but you need to watch out that the pedal wrench and extension don't fly off the pedal spindle in the process - where they can hit the floor and bounce back up at you. In the process, you can also loose your balance. That's why I prefer methods where at least one foot is planted on the ground. But glad it worked. Regards, Tony
Depends on the pedal. Some just require a 15 mm pedal wrench, some have just an hex key and some have both. If both are present, I usually go for the pedal wrench since I can get more force. Here's how to use the hex key: ua-cam.com/video/KctFfTjL0EQ/v-deo.html Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I'll just name a few reasons: 1. With time, pedals may creak or make noise as lubricant dries up. See: ua-cam.com/video/xn0bokygJ9c/v-deo.html 2. Pedal bearings do wear which also may cause noise or even impede pedaling. In such a case, the pedals need to be overhauled or replaced. 3. You may decide to install a new crank with longer or shorter crank arms. 4. Maybe you want to switch the pedal to a new or different bike. 5. One may want to experiment with spindle washers to move the pedals outward for comfort. 6. Your pedal gets damaged when your bike which was nicely leaning against a wall is accidently knocked over. All of these points to the fact that you should remove and service your pedals every few years as in the video above. Good question and thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
Drive side: Counter clockwise (turn the pedal wrench or hex key toward the rear on each side) Non-drive side: Clockwise (turn the pedal wrench or hex key toward the front on each side) See our video for more details and tips: ua-cam.com/video/MM0Nikxz62E/v-deo.html
Removing pedals when the bike is upside down puts undo stress on the seatpost, handlebars and stem. Besides, it's difficult to orient yourself as to which way to turn the pedal wrench.
Removing pedals when the bike is upside down puts undo stress on the seatpost, handlebars and stem. Besides, it's difficult to orient yourself as to which way to turn the pedal wrench.
Good idea for another video! Luckily most pedals that remove with a hex key also have flats on the spindle for a 15mm wrench but a few (such as the pedals used by my riding partner with old Shimano SPDs) do not. Here's Calvin Jones take on this type of removal using an extra long hex key: ua-cam.com/video/ljr6xSHGz7k/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool If you don't have an extra long hex key, I wonder if the regular hex with a cheater bar would work?
WD40 is a water displacement and penetrating liquid which is great for squeaky doors and flushing out dirt and grime. It contains only a small amount of lubricant. I prefer using Liquid Wrench or Knock-er Loose which I find better then WD40. With that said, I do use WD40 spayed on a small ball of aluminum foil to get out small rust spots which also spreads the frame paint over the area when I'm restoring bicycles.
I'd been struggling to remove my pedals for a couple of weeks and tried every technique I saw online. But using my heel to apply the force to the spanner was the only thing that worked. Thanks Tony!
You're welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Was struggling with my brothers pedals broke a Allen tool. The step down on the wrench technique worked great broke both pedals loose this way ! Thanks
It is a great trick used by many bmx riders. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Let your legs and body weight do the work , or leverage of a cheater pipe , especially as you age , thanks for the good advice !!!!!!
Hell yeah, the heel trick did it for me! Thank you sir! Got nice locking pedals on now.
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Realising pedals sometimes really is a painful job, thanks for the tips sir
Yes, it can be painful. These are the tricks that have worked best for me. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank You! I just tried the tie down the opposite crank method and it worked. I used three heavy duty zip ties on the opposite crank.
Good for you Sherlock Holmes. And another great use for zip ties. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
Those are some excellent tips, Tony! I've done the 2x4 trick once or twice before, and if you got an old tube handy wrap it around the board on the area that will contact the frame or wrap the frame around the area that the board will contact. you can even use a t-shirt or rag to help prevent damage.
Excellent suggestion. I have a new way of using the board, wrench, cheater bar and the edge of a cinderblock wall which I'll put into another video. Regards, Tony
The foot on the wrench trick looks neat - I'll give it a try if needed.
Please do and let me know how it works for you. Regards, Tony
This came on my feed exactly as I was trying to solve that exact problem. Thank you !
Let me know the method that works for you. The feedback is always helpful. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I removed the crank and let some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil seep on the back of the pedal shaft for 24 hours in a sink. Then some traditional leverage got them off once the cranks were reinstalled. I tried to find some CRC Knock'er Loose in Toronto but it was nearly the value of the bike ! I degreased the crank threads and greased the shaft threads with lithium grease so I (hopefully) never have to do this again. At least on *that* bike. CRC looks like it operates faster though so in a bike shop context it is absolutely worth it.
@@louis-ericsimard7659 Liquid Wrench is a great penetrating oil. I like the idea of taking off the cranks and letting the cranks, adding the Liquid Wrench and letting it soak overnight. You could then replace the cranks to give you more leverage in removing the pedals. Thanks for the feedback. Safe cycling, Tony
Wow, this is a very good explanation, many thanks for share them.
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Perfect. Worked a treat. Thank you.
Which method worked best for you?
@@tony10speedI sprayed some penetrant overnight, then used your first method - pushed the spanner with my heel. It took a little bit to line everything up but once that was done it was pretty straightforward.
@@elliott212 Thanks for the info. It will be helpful to our views. Regards, Tony
It’s really the best way! Thanks man!
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good video. One important reminder. The pedal on the left side loosens in the opposite direction. Easy to forget that as my husband did himself and wanted me put that in here.
Good point. If you push down with your heel on the pedal wrench handle on the drive side, you are turning the pedal spindle counter clockwise. If you push with your heel on the left side, you are turning the spindle clockwise - which loosens the pedal. Thanks for your comment. Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you sir. Important to remember also the bike companies don't do that to 'mess with your head' or anything. They have to make the thread on the left side "backwards" because if they didn't, you'd have to tighten the pedal on that side once a month or so. I.E. you'd be loosening the pedal a miniscule amount with each cadence.
Leaning with my back against a wall, I placed my left foot onto my left pedal and my right foot onto the end of my extension and was finally able to free my left pedal.
Can be done, but you need to watch out that the pedal wrench and extension don't fly off the pedal spindle in the process - where they can hit the floor and bounce back up at you. In the process, you can also loose your balance. That's why I prefer methods where at least one foot is planted on the ground. But glad it worked. Regards, Tony
Nice summary.
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
last time my pedal was so stuck that it almost destroyed my wrench, thanks for the tips
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
good options. thanks
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you tony
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The master!
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Please do seatpost
Will do. Thanks, Tony
Try to strap the oppersite crank arm to the rear stay . Dont use a plank of wood as seen in this video, that`s just daft.
That is one of the options in the video and a good one.
Something to new to me I've seen a bike pedal that requires a hex key.
Depends on the pedal. Some just require a 15 mm pedal wrench, some have just an hex key and some have both. If both are present, I usually go for the pedal wrench since I can get more force. Here's how to use the hex key:
ua-cam.com/video/KctFfTjL0EQ/v-deo.html
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I usually use a bicycle pedal wrench 🔧.
I do also. But some of the bikes brought in to me require just a little more like a "cheater bar" or one of the other methods described.
I have had them stuck so bad that you have to remove the crank arm and install it in a vice and then do the cheater bar method.
Now that's a really stuck pedal. How did you protect the crank arm from being scratched or damaged?
@@tony10speed-------Wood blocks
Why would you want to remove the pedals in the first place?
I'll just name a few reasons:
1. With time, pedals may creak or make noise as lubricant dries up. See:
ua-cam.com/video/xn0bokygJ9c/v-deo.html
2. Pedal bearings do wear which also may cause noise or even impede pedaling. In such a case, the pedals need to be overhauled or replaced.
3. You may decide to install a new crank with longer or shorter crank arms.
4. Maybe you want to switch the pedal to a new or different bike.
5. One may want to experiment with spindle washers to move the pedals outward for comfort.
6. Your pedal gets damaged when your bike which was nicely leaning against a wall is accidently knocked over.
All of these points to the fact that you should remove and service your pedals every few years as in the video above.
Good question and thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
the pedal itself could be broken or damaged and needs to be replaced by a new one
I always forget which way to unscrew the pedals
Drive side: Counter clockwise (turn the pedal wrench or hex key toward the rear on each side)
Non-drive side: Clockwise (turn the pedal wrench or hex key toward the front on each side)
See our video for more details and tips:
ua-cam.com/video/MM0Nikxz62E/v-deo.html
Unwind - left pedal turn to the right & right pedal turn to the left
Why not turn the bike upside down?
Removing pedals when the bike is upside down puts undo stress on the seatpost, handlebars and stem. Besides, it's difficult to orient yourself as to which way to turn the pedal wrench.
Removing pedals when the bike is upside down puts undo stress on the seatpost, handlebars and stem. Besides, it's difficult to orient yourself as to which way to turn the pedal wrench.
Have you ever broken a pedal by any of these methods?
Not yet, but keep in mind that there's always a possibility when using a cheater bar and a hammer or mallet.
You skipped the solution for hex bars.
Good idea for another video! Luckily most pedals that remove with a hex key also have flats on the spindle for a 15mm wrench but a few (such as the pedals used by my riding partner with old Shimano SPDs) do not. Here's Calvin Jones take on this type of removal using an extra long hex key:
ua-cam.com/video/ljr6xSHGz7k/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool
If you don't have an extra long hex key, I wonder if the regular hex with a cheater bar would work?
@@tony10speed mine don't 🤬 bent two cheater bars so far.
@@Bustergonad9649 Did you check out the Park Tool Video link I sent? Might be worth a try.
@@tony10speed will take a look 👍
@@Bustergonad9649 Did you check out the Park Tool Video link I in the video? Might be worth a try.
the foot trick + some wd40 penetrating oil worked! thank you so much, fuckin 4 hours trying to pry this sucker loose
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
WD40 is the solution for removing rust!
WD40 is a water displacement and penetrating liquid which is great for squeaky doors and flushing out dirt and grime. It contains only a small amount of lubricant. I prefer using Liquid Wrench or Knock-er Loose which I find better then WD40. With that said, I do use WD40 spayed on a small ball of aluminum foil to get out small rust spots which also spreads the frame paint over the area when I'm restoring bicycles.