THANK YOU FOR VISITING MY CHANNEL! The chapters: 0:25 What rag / towel you need. 1:10 Do you need a degreaser? 2:10 E-Bike crankset trick. 2:18 Cleaning with a rag. 3:28 Next phase - drivetrain brush. 4:18 The shoelace method. 5:10 Toothbrushes trick. 5:40 Lubing. Here's the chain oil I use: - for my trail, XC and road bikes amzn.to/39x3djZ - for my e-Bikes (it is thicker, easier for the chain to get dirty, but it lasts longer on bikes with central motor unit) amzn.to/2ZVAWAj Bike & chain cleaning brushes I recommend: - high quality kit amzn.to/2ZXFera - the set from the video (it's OK too) amzn.to/2OSW3Nt
Wow, all these haters. Some people don't have ultrasonic cleaners, the time to dip their chains in wax, or any speciality tools at all. Read the title because this isnt a video about cleaning your chainrings, this is great content for so many bikers whether they ride for sport or otherwise and he shows ways of using old household items to do the job. Chill out people, impeccably clean drive-trains are not that important but regularly cleaned ones are.
rather than spend all that time and hassle, its far far quicker to just take the chain off, put it in a small jar with whatever degreaser/cleaning fluid you use and shake it it around. pour the dirty cleaner out through some fine muslin or whatever to get rid of the dirt etc off the chain, pour back in jar and do the same again...use another jar or bowl with whatever you use to clean all the other fluids off, shake it or scrub it if in a bowl then rinse it with plain water then dry the chain , put it back on and lube it...far far quicker and easy..
@@djjockerstreet I watched it hoping that he will have tips on how to do it faster and/or better, but this is exactly the opposite, very slow and not even cleaned and lubed properly... Do you watch this video cause you like watching people cleaning a bike chain? Come on man.
@@rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrorr Nothing wrong with how he did things but you can do it much faster with proper tools (not toothbrush and shoelaces...). Park tool chain cleaner (or muc-off or finish line chain cleaners) + water will do the job 10 times faster. You don't have to use degreaser with chain cleaning machines, just use water and wipe with wet cloth. Acceptably clean in 3 minutes. Also there is nothing wrong with his lubing process, but I prefer one drop on each link. 112 links for standard 11 spd chain, 1 second to drop lube per link, takes 2 minutes and results in much better lube quality. So, clean and lubed drive train in 5 minutes.
Exactly what i needed to clean up an old chain from a garage door opener. Didn’t quite have the luxury of the pedals working for me, but. You Da Man. Thank you. (Double tooth brush. Best idea ever!)
Haha I was just thinking about this the other day when I was cleaning my chain...As a kid I always had a cheap walmart bike and NEVER cleaned the chain. Even let it sit out and rust a few times...throw some 10w-30 motor oil and spin it around a few times and it was good to go. Idk what’s happened to technology...lol
@@harcormor A rusty chain has a much higher chance of snapping, and especially now that you're an adult that can likely put 1000+ watts into your chain, I would highly recommend not riding with a rusty chain. Nevertheless a clean chain has less friction meaning less energy lost. You can of course ride a dirty chain if you like, but friction, chance of breaking and wearing down the rest of your drivetrain are the main reasons to clean it.
If you are going to go to those lengths of time to clean a chain, I would suggest that you have 2 chains and swap them once a week / fortnight. Once you take the dirtcy chain off, soak a few days in a jar of white spirit to soften and remove the dirt and then having wiped that off and dried it, then leave in another jar of engine oil another few days before finally hanging a few days to let the surplus oil drain off before changing again. This would probably make a chain last literally years
This is a good channel and Danny provides many good ideas and procedures. This chain cleaning is not one of the good ones. It is much easier to remove the chain, using a sram link or similar, and wash the chain , a little degreaser does no harm and helps to remove fine particles. Then a little de-watering spray and dry. Re-fit chain and lubricate, dry lube or wet lube dependingon conditions. Keep the chain clean every ride and the job is quick, simple and most importantly very effective. Sram links last ages, used over and over, never had a failure.
Yes. A "chain dentist!" I've watched lots of drive training cleaning tutorials over the years. You are first to show how to clean inside the chain. This is good to know, even if you use a chain cleaner (my preference) or have a bike mechanic do it. Also, for newbies, I would say that you should add comment telling them you are only showing how to clean the chain, not the pulleys and rest of the bike. Also, I would mention you are showing thorough cleaning and that a chain cleaner works for routine cleaning. Thank you for a great tutorial!!
Take the chain of. Stick it in a bucket with gas or naphtha or degreaser. Swish it around big time. Repeat with clean liquid. Clean in isopropyl alcohol lastly .Let dry overnight then lube by rubbing lube into chain with a toothbrush to get into the inners of the chain. I use Squirt lube. Dries and leaves a wax coating not an oily film to collect dust.
I prefer to take the chain off, sticking it in a jar and soaking it in degreaser and giving the jar a good shake every so often. While the chain is having a bath you could spend that time cleaning the rest of your bike or doing something else. soaking chains in degreaser takes minimal effort and lot of the concentrate can be stored and reused a few times before being thrown away. Just let all the dirt settle at the bottom of the jar and syringe out half of it into a different container. The used degreaser will look discoloured but it should be pretty dirt free once the all the crap has settled to the bottom. (rinse the chain with hot water a few times then either dry it with an air compressor or leaving it on the washing line to dry till youre ready to put it back on the bike) The chain being off also makes it a lot easier to clean everything else on the drivetrain - You could drop the wheels out and give the cassette, braking surfaces & brakes a proper scrub and clean.
I would suggest removing the chain, soaking chain in bowl with degreaser. While chain soaks, remove rear wheel and clean cassette with degreaser and brushes. Once chain is clean, oil before installing back onto bike. This is faster and does a MUCH better job than cleaning the chain on the bike. Do not forget to clean the derailleur cogs while chain is removed.
@@Freezorgium it’s all messy, the point is controlling and minimizing the mess. Doing it off the bike you can not only do a better job, you can also do on a work bench with something down to catch the mess and make it easy to dispose of.
Thanks for sharing. The shoe lace method might work as well as using the towel but this doesn't look very time efficient. My technique: Use quick link, remove chain and 1st step. WD40 to loosen up dirt/grease 2nd step. Gasoline bath 3rd step. Dishwash liquid scrub with a tooth brush. Dry the chain. End it with lubing your chain and wiping away excess lube. Can't get a cleaner chain using any other method.
I soak chain in paraffin and filter the paraffin. Surface is cleaner. Inside paraffin some contamination. Soaking is recommended in bicycle manual, soakin or bathing in oil.
Whoa whoa whoah........ you’re gonna tell me that you would spend all that time spit shining each and every link of the chain but not remove the large chunks of road goo from the crank chain ring and pulley wheels or cassette. Seems odd. That is where the wear on the system is going to be happening.
The wear on the system is caused by the chain. If abrasive dirt is left inside the chain parts, these will make chain links to get further apart and that widening of links will start to bite all casete and chain rings and as a result, chain rings teeth will look like shark fins and then the chain will start to skip when you "put the hammer on"
the title did say cleaning the chain only. said nothing about total drivetrain cleaning. Of course you would clean the chainring, sprockets, and derailleur.
Most importantly... You must clean the entire drivetrain or else it’s a waste of time. A big key factor in cleaning a chain is that it doesn’t/shouldn’t look “fancy” clean. Having that slightly “greyish” look is actually better. If your degreasing/cleaning is too deep and removes said lubrication from the pivots, you can’t ever get that back and you will prematurely wear out your chain. 8 and 9 speed chains didn’t have much issue with this. But since 10 speed and now becoming more common with 11, 12, & up, the chains are getting too thin and that pivot grease is compromised more. For the cost of cleaning supplies and the time, it would be more “cost effective” to just buy a new chain every 3 to 5 months. You spend more time experiencing the outdoors than cleaning.
You have the best, most informative videos. Park Tools has some good videos, but theirs usually involve the purchase of a lot of expensive tools, your videos allow even us amateur home garage mechanics to service our bikes without spending a ton of money. Thank you.
I clean the chain by taking it off, washing in petrol, just regular, like you use it in the car. It takes out all the dirt. After that rinse in water with fairy like liquid followed by rinsing in pure water. The result is perfect. My bike chain lasts much longer than it was when i cleaned just with brush and cleaning liquid without taking the chain off. Try and you will see
@@Atrophyiies there are links which allows to open and close multiple times. For me is enough from new chain untill wears out. I' m cleaning it every week, especially after the beach.
All I do is soak a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pull the chain through it. That's it. Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions. No special expensive chain oil needed and no degreaser or anything else. Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to it's viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is. Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included. There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain.
That's fine if you own a piece of junk bike. For those of us that have $10k bikes, that motor oil is going have tons of dirt sticking to it during your ride. That dirt is pulled through your drive train and wearing it down with extreme efficiency.
If you wipe off excess oil your chain stays clean. Oil has a very high ability to crawl everywhere, wiping off the surface causes no problem to the lubrication as the oil finds its way to the places where it is needed. So even a dry wiped chain is still lubricated inside and the oil stays there as long as it is not washed out. A dirty chain is a chain not wiped off properly and was too oily.
If you have a compressor, use a air gun on the chain as well as the standard clean , it always gets extra gunk out. I now clean my bike then use the air line to remove water and dirt, the difference is amazing.
I feel like a cleaning genius freak as I used all the method you showed, without any knowledge. The only thing I was missing was a pair of gloves. But yeah I realized how inconvenient it is to do it without gloves... Nice vide btw
With a quick release chain and tool I can have my chain off and in a tub of cleaner in about 30 seconds. Leave for a couple of hours then rinse and lubricate. Job done.
@@chillipepperoni You can buy the quick links in packs of 2 or 3. They can be reused lots of times if you have the correct tool. You also normally get one with a new chain that can also be reused.
OMG! Hey people, all you have to do is open chains lock and put whole chain into bottle with gasoline(or cheap paint thinner) and then shake it carefully for 5 mins. Repeat if chain is still dirty with new gasoline. Thats it.
Old white athletic socks turned inside out work great!!! We wash the holey ones and I turn them inside out and you get that "terrycloth" texture. Turned inside out, you can put your hand inside and really clean with them. They get various kinds and stages of use before we finally throw them out.
Die Kette hat er super gereinigt, absolut perfekt ...aber die Freude wird nicht lange andauern, bei dieser extrem verschmutzten Umlenkrolle und dem verschmutzten Kettenblatt.
I really like getting my chain off the drivetrain to clean it! I Take Masterlinkpliers, undo the chain take degreser and put it into a small bin and then I just scrub it down and put it bakc together. Works really well!
Spent 1/2 hour to clean chain with a shoe lace, but oil the chain on a speed rotation in a few seconds) especially filmed in a slow mo how oil get in only 1 of 3 sections) looks like these steps must be reversed: clean fast with decreaser and oil it precisely from one section to next one
Thanks I like the detail type work you thought. The other quick jobs mentioned in the comments don’t impress or satisfy like this. I’ve tried the markers “cleaning tool”; I wasn’t satisfied with results. And I can’t spend a wad of money for what looks like an expensive cleaning device. So thank you. I learned a lot.
Chain cleaner tool, with water and washing up liquid. Give the chain a good whizz thru, then rinse with clean water, dry and lube ( I use a wax, rather than an oil lube).Chain clean as a new pin.
I appreciate the quality of video and editing. I just take them off and put them in a bottle of kerosene then shake it. Then I dry the chain and put it back on 👍
Yeah, my chain is like 10 or 15$. So I just clean the mess with a rag and a brush quickly and grease it after. No need to spend 1 hours every month to get the chain pristine degreased and then grease it back and mess it in 1 hour lol. 1 hour of your time worth more than a chain. Go ride lol have fun.
So i finally after 6 years took my chain off and washed it thoroughly in white gas. I also cleaned the chain rings and the cassette. Now I use dry lube and the chain is as good as ever but what most people do without contemplating the results is pedal at a slow cadence in a higher gear instead of spinning higher rpm's in a slightly lower gear as this reduces the chain stretch/ wear.
. @DR_1_1 Nope chain is fine but I spin at 85-90 rpm and about 60 rpm up the numerous hills we have . As a normal chain is 114-116 links long ,mine is 288 links so it will take a bit longer to wear out
One of the clumsiest persons - me - has used a ParkTool, the alpha cleaner, for this purpose. The magnet underneath is kept in place by a plastic pin which was loose after a few uses. Then the ingress/egress lips wore down and cracked. The pin on one of the locks went loose again. Granted, I moved the crankset forward, not backward as instructed. It seems that PT opens up the market with specific tools, the rest follows at the same price point. Decathlon has dedicated brands which are about as cheap/expensive as the mainstream. Who sells a solution, not a sum of something? The best cleaner could be made in alluminium or stainless steel.
It makes a mess. And it uses dirty degreaser liquid. Plus side is the magnet. It collects metal particles worn out of chain. Chain washer is quite easy to use, but is not necessary the best method.
Never good to immerse your chain in degreaser, it removes the grease from places you'll never get it back into. Chain will wear out faster. Best just to wipe as he does in this video, although is time consuming.
@@LauriAP easiest way to clean a drive train is taking the chain off the bike and putting it in gasoline for about 20 to 30 minutes after you put it in gasoline you can clean the rest of your drive train after that you could dry the chain and re lube it and then dry it again then boom clean drive train in 30 minutes
There really is nothing better than a clean chain....I don't clean this in depth but a quick 5 minutes with a rag after every 50 miles or so is absolutely essential for me.
PARK TOOL Cyclone CM-5.3 With liquid degreacer. This tool clean the chain like no other! It save a lot of time. I use it for the last 2 years.I leave in Germany and I ride a sport bike every day to work, shopping or to fitness. It rains a lot her. So i have to clean my chain often.I star to use dry chain spray so the chain get way to less dirty. Before I used always wet chain lubs and they make your chain so dirty so fast when it rains. Your welcome!
Everyday commuter here! Just switch to the belt drive bicycle. It will save you tons amount of time and money : ) I cycle around 10K per year. I'm saving a fortune on cassette, chain, lube (smoove), etc.. Around 200 EUR per year. For me, switching to the belt drivetrain was the same feeling when I switched from V-brakes to Hydraulic brake. Never going back!!! Especially in commuting! And for chain best lube is wax-based Squirt or Smoove. They will keep your chain clean forever and significantly extend drivetrain lifetime. Don't forget to apply wax-based lube to completely clean and even better new drivetrain! Your welcome! : )
@@liamzhang6126 squirt wax lube is the best! And when it's time to clean it then warm water and a brush as all it takes. Dry,relube the chain and your good to go.
Why complicate? 1 Remove chain, 2 Wash with brush in soapy hot water in a recipient and dry it as soon as clean (change water a couple of times until clear), 3 lube as soon as dry (after putting it back), one drop of oil per ring (i use engine oil as its the same motorbikes manufacturers have always recommended, just put it on a eye dropper bottle) and clear excess with rag. While it dries or looses in hot water, clean the Cassette/Sprocket.
This was actually painful for me to watch. Cleaning a bicycle chain does not only not require a degree in Rocket Science it favors those who flunked out of the program. While it is true that the dirt on the outside of the chain does damage and while it's true that the methods demonstrated in this video will eventually remove that dirt (if you are willing to spend the time) the dirt that does the most damage consists of small particles residing inside the rollers and links. Far as I know you can wipe the outside of the chain 'till hell freezes over and you won't touch a grain of the most damaging dirt. For more than 40 years I've cleaned bicycle chains quickly and thoroughly via the following method: Using a 1 qt plastic bottle with screw on top I pour 8-10 ounces of kerosene into the bottle. Next having removed the chain from the bike I carefully lower it link by link into the kerosene. Next I let it soak for a few minutes and then I gently shake the bottle up and down, side to side, for several minutes. Finally I pour the liquid kerosene into a second bottle being careful to leave the sludge removed from the chain in the bottom of the first bottle. Now gently shake the bottle as before and then remove the chain from the bottle. Now using an old towel or similar type of rag thoroughly wipe all the kerosene off the outside of the chain and hang it up somewhere to dry. Once dry lubricate the "inside" of each roller, and the mating surfaces where the side plates are attached to the rollers with a quality chain oil using an applicator that allows pinpoint drip by drip application. While most people seem to think that oiling the outside of the chain is what's called for it is the inside of the rollers that most need to be lubricated. Oil on the outside surfaces of the chain serves as a dirt magnet and should be kept to a minimum. Once you've finished oiling the cleaned chain put it back on your bike and while holding your towel around the chain backpedal a dozen revolutions to wipe excess exterior oil off the chain. Job done and with an occasional exterior wipe with a rag you should be set for awhile.
Jeez. If I had to go through that much to clean a chain, I'd trade my bikes for a horse. When the chain starts making noise I blast the chain/cassette/jockey wheels/chainring with a pressure washer, dry, apply DuMonde Tech Lite, shift through the gears, wipe off chain, go ride, wipe chain again. Usually good for 6 or 7 rides in dry conditions. The amount of gunk left on your chainring at 7:00 tells me you're using the wrong chain lube.
Great video, I like the two tooth brushes idea, I’ll be making one of those. But you need to clean those rear mech jockey wheels, they looked caked in grease, otherwise all the good work you’ve done on your chain is wasted.
1. Remove the chain 2. Wipe it 3. Put it to the can with degreaser 4. Shake for two minutes 5. In case of exceptionally filth chain replace the degreaser, leave for 15 minutes, shake two minutes 6. Wipe with clean fabric Result - cleaner chain (degreaser will remove the dirt from the pins and bushings you can't reach with brush), much, much faster.
Hey, thanks for sharing the tips. I use the same type of chain on my bike (no quick-release) and this definitely comes handy when you don't want to spend the majority of time cleaning the bike rather than riding it.
1. Take off your chain (15 - 30 sek?). 2. Put it in an empty plactic container (water bottles work great). 3. Fill the bottle with a liquid of your choice and put the cap on. 4. Image you’re a bartender and shake it like there is no tommorow. 5. Open your container (or cut off the the top of the bottle for an easy access) and wipe dry. 6. Apply grease now or after putting the chain back on your bicycle. The solvent used for cleaning can be used again. Leave it in a bottle for some time for the dirt to deposit on the bottom and after that pour it into another bottle (u could also use a cloth to filter the rest of the dirt). 10 minutes and you're done 😄
@@wrongusername he literally said degreaser can be used again. how is that not ecofriendly? it's not like he is letting the degreaser soak into the pavement or soil.
@@NLghost010 well it takes a lot more degreaser to soak than to wipe. Lets say 300 milliliters vs 30 milliliters. Of course re-using that 300 milliliters is more ecological than throwing it away, but you are probably not going to get 10 re-uses of it.
@@wrongusername thats true, i might test it sometime and find out since im curious now how long degreaser will last. At least the Degreaser is contained though and can be disposed of properly after a few uses instead of getting in the environment.
The quickest and easiest method i found is to spray the chain down with water (pressurised garden squirt bottle, hose or low pressure washer) then with spray on degreaser, water again and then wipe it with high quality kitchen paper. No rags needed, no need to clean towels, quick and easy. If indoors just take the chain off and wash it in the sink with a toothbrush and degreaser.
I used toothpicks among other things to clean the chain links. It took me a couple of days, just to find out at the end of the whole process, that the chain is overstretched and must be replaced. Next time I will use a chain checker, before doing anything.
Simple and easy, take off chain , put in a jar with whitespirit, aceton, or color solvent - thinner, then shake a few times let it absorb through. Then take out the chain, wipe dry with rag. Chain are clean as new. No need to buy expensive chain cleaners, where you can buy at home depot 5L whitespirit, aceton, or color solvent for this purpose wich will be enough for a long time.
I use a mini paint roller on the chain, I apply degreaser to the roller then simply hold it against the chain and turn your crank. The roller will turn with the chain, you can lube the chain the same way. Then simply hose the roller to clean after each task😃
Proper waxing a chain will also vastly increase the lifespan of a Shimano Sil-tec chain, SRAM PG1070 sprockets and chainring. I wax my chain regularly for every 800km (top up with liquid wax lub after 400km, until 800km). My 10spd chain normally service around 4000~6000km before reach 0.5% elongation. My chainrings and cassette have been at 12000km and 16000km, still works like a charm. Just to be sure wax doesn't protect chains from rusting. So proper drying is needed after wet ride. I normally ride my XC bike on roads and light XC trails.
Pipe cleaners between links works ok. It's funny watching the video and reading the comments a lot of the things suggested are things I just did with an amateur type mindset thinking pros had some much better easier way to clean a chain. Guess chain cleaning is a pain in the ass for all of us. Good video. I take it for granted you clean the derailleur cogs and chain rings.
This is why i use the chains with a speed link. Just unlink your chain and put it in a tub of kerosene. Scrub with a brush. Dry with a rag. Put on a bike and lube.
I do not get why people do not use them. I take my chain off weekly to swap and clean makes life easier and you are going to be more inclined to maintain it better.
Sometimes I feel like using a proper wax based lube like Squirt or Smoove, or even going with the crockpot hot melt method is time consuming because you can't just throw lube on your chain and ride. Then I remember the cleaning with oil based lube. The grime, the solvents, the mess, the Fred tattoos and I realize why I used a dry, wax based lube. Every few rides wipe the chain off quickly with a dry rag, apply some lube while back-pedaling, and leave it to dry for a couple of hours.
THANK YOU FOR VISITING MY CHANNEL!
The chapters:
0:25 What rag / towel you need.
1:10 Do you need a degreaser?
2:10 E-Bike crankset trick.
2:18 Cleaning with a rag.
3:28 Next phase - drivetrain brush.
4:18 The shoelace method.
5:10 Toothbrushes trick.
5:40 Lubing.
Here's the chain oil I use:
- for my trail, XC and road bikes amzn.to/39x3djZ
- for my e-Bikes (it is thicker, easier for the chain to get dirty, but it lasts longer on bikes with central motor unit) amzn.to/2ZVAWAj
Bike & chain cleaning brushes I recommend:
- high quality kit amzn.to/2ZXFera
- the set from the video (it's OK too) amzn.to/2OSW3Nt
What's the purpose of the zip tie on the crank?
Okxx. Cc can how to make a cloth face mask
@@icel81 if you pedal backwards the chain and chainblides doesnt move on an e-bike
@@andrescycling3546 Thanks for explaining!
8
4 days later the chain is clean
But the pulley wheels still caked in dirt to rub in the chain again! 😂👍
@@martijnt1353 😭😭😭😭😭
@@martijnt1353 i also watch it
Good luck getting it done in 3 days.
5 days later the bike is dirty 😂
Wow, all these haters. Some people don't have ultrasonic cleaners, the time to dip their chains in wax, or any speciality tools at all. Read the title because this isnt a video about cleaning your chainrings, this is great content for so many bikers whether they ride for sport or otherwise and he shows ways of using old household items to do the job. Chill out people, impeccably clean drive-trains are not that important but regularly cleaned ones are.
Ultrasonic cleaners? Dude...you can use a tub and some petrol.
Lol, get 5L of citrus degreaser for 20 bucks, dilutes 1:10 with water and a $10 chain cleaner tool...takes 2 minutes tops!
Your dirty chain is cleaner than my chain after I have cleaned it.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
His clean chain is dirtier than my chain after I clean it in half the time.
😂😂😂😂
i can relate bro
rather than spend all that time and hassle, its far far quicker to just take the chain off, put it in a small jar with whatever degreaser/cleaning fluid you use and shake it it around. pour the dirty cleaner out through some fine muslin or whatever to get rid of the dirt etc off the chain, pour back in jar and do the same again...use another jar or bowl with whatever you use to clean all the other fluids off, shake it or scrub it if in a bowl then rinse it with plain water then dry the chain , put it back on and lube it...far far quicker and easy..
This is a joke, right?
Alternative title - how to spend half of your life cleaning your bike chain.
You know what a passion, a hobby is, what it means to like something, You can learn a lot here ... don't like don't watch it
@@djjockerstreet I watched it hoping that he will have tips on how to do it faster and/or better, but this is exactly the opposite, very slow and not even cleaned and lubed properly... Do you watch this video cause you like watching people cleaning a bike chain? Come on man.
@@djjockerstreet also the way he is applying lube....
@@rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrorr
Nothing wrong with how he did things but you can do it much faster with proper tools (not toothbrush and shoelaces...).
Park tool chain cleaner (or muc-off or finish line chain cleaners) + water will do the job 10 times faster.
You don't have to use degreaser with chain cleaning machines, just use water and wipe with wet cloth.
Acceptably clean in 3 minutes.
Also there is nothing wrong with his lubing process, but I prefer one drop on each link.
112 links for standard 11 spd chain, 1 second to drop lube per link, takes 2 minutes and results in much better lube quality.
So, clean and lubed drive train in 5 minutes.
@@rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrorr I agree. The title is definitely misleading and not the best advice for newcomers. Merry Christmas to you as well!
Exactly what i needed to clean up an old chain from a garage door opener. Didn’t quite have the luxury of the pedals working for me, but. You Da Man. Thank you. (Double tooth brush. Best idea ever!)
Double tooth brush. Good idea.
The last image of the super clean chain on the very dirt chainwheel hurt a bit…
Does anyone remember cleaning a chain as a kid? There was no maintenance at all 😁 and it was "fine"
Haha I was just thinking about this the other day when I was cleaning my chain...As a kid I always had a cheap walmart bike and NEVER cleaned the chain. Even let it sit out and rust a few times...throw some 10w-30 motor oil and spin it around a few times and it was good to go. Idk what’s happened to technology...lol
I guess those chains didn't take as much stress and abuse as these heavier bikes do
Extremely true,if I had not done my research I would have been the same and that just shows do ur research before u get anything.
@@harcormor A rusty chain has a much higher chance of snapping, and especially now that you're an adult that can likely put 1000+ watts into your chain, I would highly recommend not riding with a rusty chain.
Nevertheless a clean chain has less friction meaning less energy lost.
You can of course ride a dirty chain if you like, but friction, chance of breaking and wearing down the rest of your drivetrain are the main reasons to clean it.
kids bikes also 20 times cheaper
Tying the crank to the chainring to make it one piece to pedal backwards is such a smart idea!
If you are going to go to those lengths of time to clean a chain, I would suggest that you have 2 chains and swap them once a week / fortnight.
Once you take the dirtcy chain off, soak a few days in a jar of white spirit to soften and remove the dirt and then having wiped that off and dried it, then leave in another jar of engine oil another few days before finally hanging a few days to let the surplus oil drain off before changing again. This would probably make a chain last literally years
Pfff... that would be too easy.
This is a good channel and Danny provides many good ideas and procedures. This chain cleaning is not one of the good ones. It is much easier to remove the chain, using a sram link or similar, and wash the chain , a little degreaser does no harm and helps to remove fine particles. Then a little de-watering spray and dry. Re-fit chain and lubricate, dry lube or wet lube dependingon conditions. Keep the chain clean every ride and the job is quick, simple and most importantly very effective. Sram links last ages, used over and over, never had a failure.
The problem is the newer 12 speed chain links are not reusable and can add up very quickly, getting very expensive
How about that chainring and derailleur? oh my...
The jockeys too! Ohh dear...
How to properly waste your time and achive nothing.
Useless unless you clean all that catpoo from the chainring and jockey wheels lol
Yes. A "chain dentist!"
I've watched lots of drive training cleaning tutorials over the years. You are first to show how to clean inside the chain. This is good to know, even if you use a chain cleaner (my preference) or have a bike mechanic do it.
Also, for newbies, I would say that you should add comment telling them you are only showing how to clean the chain, not the pulleys and rest of the bike. Also, I would mention you are showing thorough cleaning and that a chain cleaner works for routine cleaning.
Thank you for a great tutorial!!
Take the chain of. Stick it in a bucket with gas or naphtha or degreaser. Swish it around big time. Repeat with clean liquid. Clean in isopropyl alcohol lastly .Let dry overnight then lube by rubbing lube into chain with a toothbrush to get into the inners of the chain. I use Squirt lube. Dries and leaves a wax coating not an oily film to collect dust.
Legend said up to this day hes still ceaning his chain....
His "dirty" chain looks like my chain after I've cleaned it.
Cleaning the chain is not enough. The derailleur, cassette and chainrings are dirty too.
I prefer to take the chain off, sticking it in a jar and soaking it in degreaser and giving the jar a good shake every so often. While the chain is having a bath you could spend that time cleaning the rest of your bike or doing something else. soaking chains in degreaser takes minimal effort and lot of the concentrate can be stored and reused a few times before being thrown away. Just let all the dirt settle at the bottom of the jar and syringe out half of it into a different container. The used degreaser will look discoloured but it should be pretty dirt free once the all the crap has settled to the bottom. (rinse the chain with hot water a few times then either dry it with an air compressor or leaving it on the washing line to dry till youre ready to put it back on the bike)
The chain being off also makes it a lot easier to clean everything else on the drivetrain - You could drop the wheels out and give the cassette, braking surfaces & brakes a proper scrub and clean.
I would suggest removing the chain, soaking chain in bowl with degreaser. While chain soaks, remove rear wheel and clean cassette with degreaser and brushes. Once chain is clean, oil before installing back onto bike. This is faster and does a MUCH better job than cleaning the chain on the bike. Do not forget to clean the derailleur cogs while chain is removed.
I can't think of a way to oil the chain before putting it back on the bike that wouldn't make a mess.
@@Freezorgium it’s all messy, the point is controlling and minimizing the mess. Doing it off the bike you can not only do a better job, you can also do on a work bench with something down to catch the mess and make it easy to dispose of.
That's some serious foreplay with the bike.
Thanks for sharing. The shoe lace method might work as well as using the towel but this doesn't look very time efficient.
My technique:
Use quick link, remove chain and
1st step. WD40 to loosen up dirt/grease
2nd step. Gasoline bath
3rd step. Dishwash liquid scrub with a tooth brush.
Dry the chain.
End it with lubing your chain and wiping away excess lube.
Can't get a cleaner chain using any other method.
I soak chain in paraffin and filter the paraffin. Surface is cleaner. Inside paraffin some contamination. Soaking is recommended in bicycle manual, soakin or bathing in oil.
Whoa whoa whoah........ you’re gonna tell me that you would spend all that time spit shining each and every link of the chain but not remove the large chunks of road goo from the crank chain ring and pulley wheels or cassette. Seems odd. That is where the wear on the system is going to be happening.
EXACTLY.. the last part triggered me so bad! I thought he would then proceed to cleaning the plates but the video just ended.
The wear on the system is caused by the chain. If abrasive dirt is left inside the chain parts, these will make chain links to get further apart and that widening of links will start to bite all casete and chain rings and as a result, chain rings teeth will look like shark fins and then the chain will start to skip when you "put the hammer on"
No wonder
the title did say cleaning the chain only. said nothing about total drivetrain cleaning.
Of course you would clean the chainring, sprockets, and derailleur.
Watching in 22. Extremely well edited video. Thank you for the time it took to explain all this in such great detail.
Most importantly... You must clean the entire drivetrain or else it’s a waste of time.
A big key factor in cleaning a chain is that it doesn’t/shouldn’t look “fancy” clean. Having that slightly “greyish” look is actually better.
If your degreasing/cleaning is too deep and removes said lubrication from the pivots, you can’t ever get that back and you will prematurely wear out your chain.
8 and 9 speed chains didn’t have much issue with this. But since 10 speed and now becoming more common with 11, 12, & up, the chains are getting too thin and that pivot grease is compromised more.
For the cost of cleaning supplies and the time, it would be more “cost effective” to just buy a new chain every 3 to 5 months.
You spend more time experiencing the outdoors than cleaning.
That only applies to motorcycle chains with o-rings and permanent lubrication, not for cycling chains.
You have the best, most informative videos. Park Tools has some good videos, but theirs usually involve the purchase of a lot of expensive tools, your videos allow even us amateur home garage mechanics to service our bikes without spending a ton of money. Thank you.
I clean the chain by taking it off, washing in petrol, just regular, like you use it in the car. It takes out all the dirt. After that rinse in water with fairy like liquid followed by rinsing in pure water. The result is perfect. My bike chain lasts much longer than it was when i cleaned just with brush and cleaning liquid without taking the chain off. Try and you will see
Are you disconnecting the missing link and reusing it back together? Or are you using a brand new missing link? Thanks
@@Atrophyiies there are links which you can reuse. check out kmc or connex links
@@Atrophyiies there are links which allows to open and close multiple times. For me is enough from new chain untill wears out. I' m cleaning it every week, especially after the beach.
Why cleaning after petrol, then with water? Wtf? Just lube it.
This looks like club of idiots.
@@janezjonsa3165 go on, do it, if so :D It's your choice.
That chain will never come clean unless the jockey wheels are also cleaned
All I do is soak a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pull the chain through it.
That's it.
Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions.
No special expensive chain oil needed and no degreaser or anything else.
Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to it's viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is.
Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included.
There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain.
In my case I use transmission oil. The same one I use on my car. It's made to be used with gears so it works great also for the bike chain and gears.
That's fine if you own a piece of junk bike. For those of us that have $10k bikes, that motor oil is going have tons of dirt sticking to it during your ride. That dirt is pulled through your drive train and wearing it down with extreme efficiency.
If you wipe off excess oil your chain stays clean. Oil has a very high ability to crawl everywhere, wiping off the surface causes no problem to the lubrication as the oil finds its way to the places where it is needed. So even a dry wiped chain is still lubricated inside and the oil stays there as long as it is not washed out.
A dirty chain is a chain not wiped off properly and was too oily.
Quicker to take it off, rinse in kerosine with a little diesel mixed in, dry it off and your good to go with a new joining link
@@SaundyB Don't you lube afterwards?
Nice to see you have 3hrs to clean ur chain and you still haven't got to your cassette chain ring or your JOCKEY WHEELS.
If you have a compressor, use a air gun on the chain as well as the standard clean , it always gets extra gunk out. I now clean my bike then use the air line to remove water and dirt, the difference is amazing.
I feel like a cleaning genius freak as I used all the method you showed, without any knowledge. The only thing I was missing was a pair of gloves. But yeah I realized how inconvenient it is to do it without gloves... Nice vide btw
I once decided to just check how dirty is my bike(without gloves ofc) and ended up with a shiny clean bike and dirty hands.
The music and slow motion make this video feels very sensual.
Im curious to see how this guy brush his teeth
Shoe lace probably
@@Yohanyothan LOL
If I can extend my chain's service life from 4000 to 5000 km using that shoelace-trick, I'll stay with replacing it every 4000km :D
I’m so glad I discovered hot waxing. Gone are the days I spend hours trying to get my drivetrain clean with methodes like this.
With a quick release chain and tool I can have my chain off and in a tub of cleaner in about 30 seconds. Leave for a couple of hours then rinse and lubricate. Job done.
Of course the much better way to clean a chain!!! 👍
Definitely a way better approach but it'll wear out your quick link faster.
@@chillipepperoni You can buy the quick links in packs of 2 or 3. They can be reused lots of times if you have the correct tool. You also normally get one with a new chain that can also be reused.
Why the zip tye
@@buddahmayne9273 for some eBikes... back pedaling doesn't rotate the chainring
OMG! Hey people, all you have to do is open chains lock and put whole chain into bottle with gasoline(or cheap paint thinner) and then shake it carefully for 5 mins. Repeat if chain is still dirty with new gasoline. Thats it.
This is why I bought a black chain... If I can't see the dirt, it doesn't exist. 😁
Thank you very much my guy im from the philiphines🇵🇭 without you i couldn't clean my overlubed bike chain
What about cleaning also the sprockets? Like this is half done...
Old white athletic socks turned inside out work great!!! We wash the holey ones and I turn them inside out and you get that "terrycloth" texture. Turned inside out, you can put your hand inside and really clean with them. They get various kinds and stages of use before we finally throw them out.
High pressure water jet with a soap mixture works fine for me.. i just blast it.. remove all the grit in 5 mins tops.. dry it up and lube it.. done.
Die Kette hat er super gereinigt, absolut perfekt ...aber die Freude wird nicht lange andauern, bei dieser extrem verschmutzten Umlenkrolle und dem verschmutzten Kettenblatt.
Thanks, totally convinced me to get a ULTRASONIC CLEANER
i also kkkkkkkk
I really like getting my chain off the drivetrain to clean it!
I Take Masterlinkpliers, undo the chain take degreser and put it into a small bin and then I just scrub it down and put it bakc together.
Works really well!
6:58 yeah, when the 1x front cog looks like this ... its very effective to clean the chain :D
You re the first who does it right!!! And super explained! (Some little things are missing)
Spent 1/2 hour to clean chain with a shoe lace, but oil the chain on a speed rotation in a few seconds) especially filmed in a slow mo how oil get in only 1 of 3 sections) looks like these steps must be reversed: clean fast with decreaser and oil it precisely from one section to next one
Thanks I like the detail type work you thought. The other quick jobs mentioned in the comments don’t impress or satisfy like this. I’ve tried the markers “cleaning tool”; I wasn’t satisfied with results. And I can’t spend a wad of money for what looks like an expensive cleaning device. So thank you. I learned a lot.
Chain cleaner tool, with water and washing up liquid.
Give the chain a good whizz thru, then rinse with clean water, dry and lube ( I use a wax, rather than an oil lube).Chain clean as a new pin.
Instructions unclear. Just took a whizz on my bike.
Was using old tooth brush and vegetable oil since I was 12 years old and always did the job.
After that much hard work , I won't feel like riding bycycle again
last changed my bike parts 15.000 km ago. cleaned it once during that time. still going strong.
Dude - you picked the most time consuming chain cleaning methods ever.
I appreciate the quality of video and editing. I just take them off and put them in a bottle of kerosene then shake it. Then I dry the chain and put it back on 👍
Yeah, my chain is like 10 or 15$. So I just clean the mess with a rag and a brush quickly and grease it after.
No need to spend 1 hours every month to get the chain pristine degreased and then grease it back and mess it in 1 hour lol.
1 hour of your time worth more than a chain.
Go ride lol have fun.
Had a really dirty chain and I think I had over lubed. I had to take the time do deep clean it, you just gave me a lot of "hacks". thx :)
To see such a clean chain rolling over a filthy chainring and rear derailleur jockey wheels brings me pain.
Why 🤣
So i finally after 6 years took my chain off and washed it thoroughly in white gas. I also cleaned the chain rings and the cassette. Now I use dry lube and the chain is as good as ever but what most people do without contemplating the results is pedal at a slow cadence in a higher gear instead of spinning higher rpm's in a slightly lower gear as this reduces the chain stretch/ wear.
Maybe try a chain checker, after 6 years it's probably worn...
. @DR_1_1 Nope chain is fine but I spin at 85-90 rpm and about 60 rpm up the numerous hills we have . As a normal chain is 114-116 links long ,mine is 288 links so it will take a bit longer to wear out
Much easier/faster to use a dedicated and cheap chain cleaning tool, where the chain is brushed and immersed in cleaning fluid.
One of the clumsiest persons - me - has used a ParkTool, the alpha cleaner, for this purpose. The magnet underneath is kept in place by a plastic pin which was loose after a few uses. Then the ingress/egress lips wore down and cracked. The pin on one of the locks went loose again. Granted, I moved the crankset forward, not backward as instructed. It seems that PT opens up the market with specific tools, the rest follows at the same price point. Decathlon has dedicated brands which are about as cheap/expensive as the mainstream. Who sells a solution, not a sum of something? The best cleaner could be made in alluminium or stainless steel.
It makes a mess. And it uses dirty degreaser liquid.
Plus side is the magnet. It collects metal particles worn out of chain.
Chain washer is quite easy to use, but is not necessary the best method.
Never good to immerse your chain in degreaser, it removes the grease from places you'll never get it back into. Chain will wear out faster. Best just to wipe as he does in this video, although is time consuming.
@@LauriAP easiest way to clean a drive train is taking the chain off the bike and putting it in gasoline for about 20 to 30 minutes after you put it in gasoline you can clean the rest of your drive train after that you could dry the chain and re lube it and then dry it again then boom clean drive train in 30 minutes
The shoelace method takes the longest but is the most thorough
I like the toothbrush idea. I'm gonna try that next time. Thanks for the tip.
It's easier to install a Quick Link and to remove the chain completely and soak it in petrol overnight.
and shake it up in a bottle
Yep, absolutely.@@agnomenincognita3896
@@kirkster501 absolutely 💯
well said!
There really is nothing better than a clean chain....I don't clean this in depth but a quick 5 minutes with a rag after every 50 miles or so is absolutely essential for me.
PARK TOOL Cyclone CM-5.3
With liquid degreacer.
This tool clean the chain like no other! It save a lot of time. I use it for the last 2 years.I leave in Germany and I ride a sport bike every day to work, shopping or to fitness. It rains a lot her. So i have to clean my chain often.I star to use dry chain spray so the chain get way to less dirty. Before I used always wet chain lubs and they make your chain so dirty so fast when it rains.
Your welcome!
Everyday commuter here! Just switch to the belt drive bicycle. It will save you tons amount of time and money : ) I cycle around 10K per year. I'm saving a fortune on cassette, chain, lube (smoove), etc.. Around 200 EUR per year. For me, switching to the belt drivetrain was the same feeling when I switched from V-brakes to Hydraulic brake. Never going back!!! Especially in commuting!
And for chain best lube is wax-based Squirt or Smoove. They will keep your chain clean forever and significantly extend drivetrain lifetime. Don't forget to apply wax-based lube to completely clean and even better new drivetrain! Your welcome! : )
@@liamzhang6126 squirt wax lube is the best! And when it's time to clean it then warm water and a brush as all it takes. Dry,relube the chain and your good to go.
Excellent video. Tying down the front chainring for cleaning purposes is genius.Thank you.
Why complicate?
1 Remove chain,
2 Wash with brush in soapy hot water in a recipient and dry it as soon as clean (change water a couple of times until clear),
3 lube as soon as dry (after putting it back), one drop of oil per ring (i use engine oil as its the same motorbikes manufacturers have always recommended, just put it on a eye dropper bottle) and clear excess with rag.
While it dries or looses in hot water, clean the Cassette/Sprocket.
This is actually much easier, thanks!
Hey that’s cool. how hard is it to clean dirty chain after wet, slushy rides? Also how many miles till the chain squeeks?
Hi. I use dishwashing liquid soap. Being cheaper & if it can remove the oils from food, then it can be used as a degreaser as well.
Clean that jockey wheel for gods sake.
.:JUST SHARING THE GOSPEL WITH YOU - FOR GOD SO LOVED THE WORLD THAT HE GAVE HIS ONE AND ONLY, SON THAT WHOEVER BELIEVES IN HIM SHALL NOT PERISH
This was actually painful for me to watch. Cleaning a bicycle chain does not only not require a degree in Rocket Science it favors those who flunked out of the program. While it is true that the dirt on the outside of the chain does damage and while it's true that the methods demonstrated in this video will eventually remove that dirt (if you are willing to spend the time) the dirt that does the most damage consists of small particles residing inside the rollers and links. Far as I know you can wipe the outside of the chain 'till hell freezes over and you won't touch a grain of the most damaging dirt. For more than 40 years I've cleaned bicycle chains quickly and thoroughly via the following method: Using a 1 qt plastic bottle with screw on top I pour 8-10 ounces of kerosene into the bottle. Next having removed the chain from the bike I carefully lower it link by link into the kerosene. Next I let it soak for a few minutes and then I gently shake the bottle up and down, side to side, for several minutes. Finally I pour the liquid kerosene into a second bottle being careful to leave the sludge removed from the chain in the bottom of the first bottle. Now gently shake the bottle as before and then remove the chain from the bottle. Now using an old towel or similar type of rag thoroughly wipe all the kerosene off the outside of the chain and hang it up somewhere to dry. Once dry lubricate the "inside" of each roller, and the mating surfaces where the side plates are attached to the rollers with a quality chain oil using an applicator that allows pinpoint drip by drip application. While most people seem to think that oiling the outside of the chain is what's called for it is the inside of the rollers that most need to be lubricated. Oil on the outside surfaces of the chain serves as a dirt magnet and should be kept to a minimum. Once you've finished oiling the cleaned chain put it back on your bike and while holding your towel around the chain backpedal a dozen revolutions to wipe excess exterior oil off the chain. Job done and with an occasional exterior wipe with a rag you should be set for awhile.
Jeez. If I had to go through that much to clean a chain, I'd trade my bikes for a horse. When the chain starts making noise I blast the chain/cassette/jockey wheels/chainring with a pressure washer, dry, apply DuMonde Tech Lite, shift through the gears, wipe off chain, go ride, wipe chain again. Usually good for 6 or 7 rides in dry conditions.
The amount of gunk left on your chainring at 7:00 tells me you're using the wrong chain lube.
This idea of a shoelace is interesting, I shall use it, thank you.
Great video, I like the two tooth brushes idea, I’ll be making one of those. But you need to clean those rear mech jockey wheels, they looked caked in grease, otherwise all the good work you’ve done on your chain is wasted.
1. Remove the chain
2. Wipe it
3. Put it to the can with degreaser
4. Shake for two minutes
5. In case of exceptionally filth chain replace the degreaser, leave for 15 minutes, shake two minutes
6. Wipe with clean fabric
Result - cleaner chain (degreaser will remove the dirt from the pins and bushings you can't reach with brush), much, much faster.
For people who are not psychopaths... Sparay with kerosene and use paint brush.. clean chain within 5 minutes.
Hey, thanks for sharing the tips. I use the same type of chain on my bike (no quick-release) and this definitely comes handy when you don't want to spend the majority of time cleaning the bike rather than riding it.
Nice video, but you should have started with the jockey wheels. It was almost painfull to see such a clean chain running on gunked up jockey wheels.
strangely, he did the derailleur clean video after this chain clean video..
I especially loved the two toothbrushes
1. Take off your chain (15 - 30 sek?).
2. Put it in an empty plactic container (water bottles work great).
3. Fill the bottle with a liquid of your choice and put the cap on.
4. Image you’re a bartender and shake it like there is no tommorow.
5. Open your container (or cut off the the top of the bottle for an easy access) and wipe dry.
6. Apply grease now or after putting the chain back on your bicycle.
The solvent used for cleaning can be used again. Leave it in a bottle for some time for the dirt to deposit on the bottom and after that pour it into another bottle (u could also use a cloth to filter the rest of the dirt).
10 minutes and you're done 😄
That method is not too eco friendly. Did you see how litle degreaser was used in the video?
@@wrongusername he literally said degreaser can be used again. how is that not ecofriendly? it's not like he is letting the degreaser soak into the pavement or soil.
@@NLghost010 well it takes a lot more degreaser to soak than to wipe. Lets say 300 milliliters vs 30 milliliters. Of course re-using that 300 milliliters is more ecological than throwing it away, but you are probably not going to get 10 re-uses of it.
@@wrongusername thats true, i might test it sometime and find out since im curious now how long degreaser will last. At least the Degreaser is contained though and can be disposed of properly after a few uses instead of getting in the environment.
@@NLghost010 yes, definitely a superior method than pouring it on thr chain and washing it down the drain :)
The quickest and easiest method i found is to spray the chain down with water (pressurised garden squirt bottle, hose or low pressure washer) then with spray on degreaser, water again and then wipe it with high quality kitchen paper. No rags needed, no need to clean towels, quick and easy. If indoors just take the chain off and wash it in the sink with a toothbrush and degreaser.
I used toothpicks among other things to clean the chain links. It took me a couple of days, just to find out at the end of the whole process, that the chain is overstretched and must be replaced. Next time I will use a chain checker, before doing anything.
Nothing world changing, but a realy good tutorial! 😁👍
Simple and easy, take off chain , put in a jar with whitespirit, aceton, or color solvent - thinner, then shake a few times let it absorb through. Then take out the chain, wipe dry with rag. Chain are clean as new. No need to buy expensive chain cleaners, where you can buy at home depot 5L whitespirit, aceton, or color solvent for this purpose wich will be enough for a long time.
I use a mini paint roller on the chain, I apply degreaser to the roller then simply hold it against the chain and turn your crank. The roller will turn with the chain, you can lube the chain the same way. Then simply hose the roller to clean after each task😃
Get the parktool chain cleaner, amazing thing and super quick + actually cleans the inside
The Park Tool CM-5.3 chain cleaner makes it way easier, even those Chinesse copies work great. And use a dry lube, unless it’s rally muddy.
The Park Tool cyclone makes this so painless.
Proper waxing a chain will also vastly increase the lifespan of a Shimano Sil-tec chain, SRAM PG1070 sprockets and chainring. I wax my chain regularly for every 800km (top up with liquid wax lub after 400km, until 800km). My 10spd chain normally service around 4000~6000km before reach 0.5% elongation. My chainrings and cassette have been at 12000km and 16000km, still works like a charm. Just to be sure wax doesn't protect chains from rusting. So proper drying is needed after wet ride. I normally ride my XC bike on roads and light XC trails.
Remove chain, wash in solvent, dry and lube with 3 in 1 oil, quicker and cleaner.
Chaing ring needs some love too
6.59 - ideally cleans chain, still forgets to clean the chainring.
Pipe cleaners between links works ok. It's funny watching the video and reading the comments a lot of the things suggested are things I just did with an amateur type mindset thinking pros had some much better easier way to clean a chain. Guess chain cleaning is a pain in the ass for all of us. Good video. I take it for granted you clean the derailleur cogs and chain rings.
after super ultra chain cleaning you still have a very dirty chainring :D
Your videos are great, keep up the good work. But this one did make me chuckle and laugh a little bit, especially the shoe-lace part
This is why i use the chains with a speed link. Just unlink your chain and put it in a tub of kerosene. Scrub with a brush. Dry with a rag. Put on a bike and lube.
I do not get why people do not use them. I take my chain off weekly to swap and clean makes life easier and you are going to be more inclined to maintain it better.
Have you tried gasoline? What is the difference?
@@anriandreev4913 It works ok. I always use white spirits afterwards.
Finally a video about cleaning a dirty bike where the bike is actually dirty.
Brush the kassette, gears... first!
Sometimes I feel like using a proper wax based lube like Squirt or Smoove, or even going with the crockpot hot melt method is time consuming because you can't just throw lube on your chain and ride.
Then I remember the cleaning with oil based lube. The grime, the solvents, the mess, the Fred tattoos and I realize why I used a dry, wax based lube. Every few rides wipe the chain off quickly with a dry rag, apply some lube while back-pedaling, and leave it to dry for a couple of hours.
Remove the chain,keep it in gasoline for half hour and then put chain oil on it