Yeah I use the cleaning cassette and degreaser like you do. Then I rewax the chain with SQUIRT wax. I have a question that when I posed it to GCN didn't get answered - why do new bike chains come waxed but thereafter chain wax is way harder to find and buy off the shelf than the plethora of chain oils? Oils just make a mess of chains in no time. I hate chain oils.
I clean my chain with brake cleaner , cassette with brush and parrafin oil, but first of all i secure disk brake from any drops, faster & cheaper i think
Soaking a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pulling the chain through it is all I do. That's it. Nothing else. Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions. No special expensive chain oil, chain wax and no degreaser or anything else needed. Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to its viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is. Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included. There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain.
I use a degreaser like Simple Green for the first go through the chain cleaner, then switch to very diluted dish soap for round two, then to plain water to rinse everything off. The chain comes out sparkling clean.
I've found that the best way to keep your drivetrain healthy, other than to clean it often, is to make very sure that you wipe off ALL the excess oil after you lube the chain. That one simple thing has done more to prevent the early death of chains and cassettes than anything else I've been able to figure out. Excess oil collects dirt like a magnet, and it can soon become a gritty paste that grinds away at all of your drivetrain components with remarkable efficiency.
It is a good idea to use a chain hook to hold the chain before opening the quick links else the tension in the derailleur may send the chain and quick links flying. Learned that the hard way.
quick links are a godsend. Its so easy to take your chain off, stick it in a jar with some chain cleaning solution and give it a proper going over, why wouldnt you! Ive been doing that for several years now (KMC DLC quicklinks) and it makes a huge difference, makes it much easier to clean your cassette and chainrings aswell. win win.
I think you said "on a regular basis" more than I have ever uttered the phrase in my life during this short video, and I am 762 years old! - Good video in any case, useful info.
Tip: Cleaning the chain and cassette on the bike can often slightly contaminate the brake rotor. I like to clean the rotor with iso or similar cleaner after I am done with the drivetrain just to be safe.
Agree, make use a piece of cardboard cut out around the hub to stop any splashing. Alternatively wax dip your chain, and you always have sparkling drivetrain!
Brilliant, the one thing I will add is that there is something to be said to get more comfortable taking the chain off and putting back on because if you don’t your first time may be in front of a bunch of people helping someone with a broken chain like me and you may do it wrong lol.
If you ride when the ground is wet or just after it rains, little grains of sand stick to the tires and fall onto the chain and sprockets. Needs to be removed as it’s super abrasive. Good video. A reminder a little “preventative maintenance” will help keep a smooth ride on the bike.
Happened to me few weeks ago. I used RSP's degreaser with a cleaning device similar to the one shown in the video but I couldn't get rid of all the trapped sand.
You need to be careful with the Muc-Off degreaser on the cassette. I used it quite enthusiastically for a while and it got into the bearings of my rear wheel, dissolving the grease, so I had to replace the bearings. Now I use Squirt wax lubricant and clean the chain with a rag every week. Once a year, I remove the chain and cassette and clean them thoroughly.
As well as the sliced beetroot jar, I have also had success with a picked gherkin jar and hope to be trying other tasty products soon. I use a food-grade wax bath with a pinch of teflon powder.
cleaning the chain, I would recommend a plastic jar and not a glass one if you are going to shake it up like that. When cleaning the cassette/freewheel, if you are spraying the degreaser on, use a shield to keep the degreaser from contaminating the brakes.
I ride my EMTB daily at all conditions and I never clean chain and it works just fine. But I use it in combo with Kindernay gear hub. I never had issues with chain. I change chain once in 3-4 years (maybe around 8000 miles) with front and rear sprockets (quite cheap) all together when the front sprocket teeth become shark fin shaped and start sliding on the chain.
Great tutorial, please do allow me to share my washing routine, i use the muc off c3 dry lube (dish soap soluble no need for degreaser AT ALL) So i blast water into the chain links and spray dish washing liquid on the chain and brush all of the chain + pulley + chain rings and i once again blast it. By this stage the only thing on the bike is dirt on the frame and totally oil free. I then spray dish washing liquid all over the bike without any care for rotors because if you can eat off your plates, your rotors will not be contaminated. I then sponge wash the whole bike and proceed to drying/protection. Since i have used Turtlewax ice seal and shine on the frame and wheels, dishwashing liquid will NOT remove any hydrophobic coating at all (proof on youtube video on the turtlewax) all i have to do is use a portable air blower to blast off the water and since it is hydrophobic it just slides off. I blast all bolts as well as FD and FD as well as chain. By this time the bike is 100% dry and chain is 80% dry. I feel comfortable to relube the FD, RD and chain with 0% chance of contaminating the brake rotor. I bought the muc off protect but i have never found it to be a good idea to spray any aerosol anywhere within 50m radius of my pads and rotors. I wash my bike once every week and they are absolutely pristine.
I regularly clean my chain and the rear end/ mech. first off I spray the chain with Screwfix "no-nonsense" degreaser and leave for a few minutes brushing to agitate. Then i put the same degreaser into a park tool chain bath and give it 30 revs, tip that out then fill up with muc off and do the same. Then its hot water with washing up liquid and again 30 revs i use a chain dummy hub to keep it taut on the bike, i will then dry the chain off and wipe it down with a cloth soaked in GT85 to drive any water out and as a final clean. I lubricate each link individually spin the chain to make sure its all gone through and leave. I do pay attention to the jockey wheels . I do the same with the cassette really brushing to get it all out.
1. Proper lubrication = correct wet/dry lube + right way of putting it on the chain (not as mucoff advice). 2. Regular cleaning after every ride and deep cleaning once per 2-3 weeks.
Unless you are MTB'ing in the muck every Sunday, there's no need to clean 'after every ride'; even then I would just hose it off. Even in 3rd world countries, riding on the street is not going warrant that level of retardedness. The correct answer is: there should never been enough dirt in your chain to cause a level of degradation of the chain+cassette+chainring that you can't afford. These are bikes, not motorcycles or cars...take it easy.
@@quarkonium3795 Takes me about 5 minutes to re-wax my chain. It doesn't attract dirt and grime so there is less wear and tear resulting in a longer chain/drivetrain lifespan.
In a hot, dry climate I use a dry lube (often). Wax tends to melt. I like the chain wax idea for colder climates but it is a lot of work to put it on even a new chain properly.
I have a pretty simple way. I have old bottle where I cut the top off and pour biodegradable degreaser. Then I dip the the brush to degreaser and spread it to chain and all drivetrain parts. I take rear wheel off at first and replace it with dummy hub. I also wash a whole bike when clean drivetrain. Comes clean enough for me.
The best solvent for cleaning oil is oil. Having cleaned plenty of motorbike chains over the years I’ve found the best cleaning solvents to be either paraffin/kerosene or diesel. They dissolve old chain lube while not destroying any o-rings (as petrol might). They are both lubricants in their own rights so they won’t cause any adverse issues as a degreaser might. Once the chain is clean, wipe it dry or even blow with an airline and reapply your favourite lube.
You are dead right, I use kero then blow it dry using air compressor. Soak chain in 5W30 synthetic oil, hang it so to drip excess oil into bowl etc. The used kero is recycled via a funnel and paper kitchen towel (inside funnel) back into empty bottle ready for next chain clean.
Everybody is talking about waxing the chain but I cycle 400 km weekly, on dirty roads in Ireland, I don't see myself waxing and all the hassle twice weekly. Once weekly with a clot soaked in petrol, fresh wd40 spray andvthats it. Takes 1 min. And I buy 3 chains a year, is probably cheaper than all the waxing
WD is not a lube. In fact, I use it on detailers (only) to clean an protect them. You may find better life and quieter chain with an actual lubricant. My favorite is muck-off dry lube. Works great. Tests well. Doesn't attract too much.
@@reynolds8532 a clot soaked in petrol is a stoopid idea. i used to work for a guy, who was using a mix of petrol and jizer for a degrease job............ and managed to set light to himself. his hands in particular were melted. NO i'm not giving B/S. NEVER EVER USE PETROL AS A CLEANER
WD40 is mostly dewaxed kerosene. it's not a lubricant,it's a water displacer. you'd be better off lubing your chain with straight kerosene/paraffin oil,it leaves a waxy film on the chain. but it still won't last very long. messing with petrol (gasoline) is hazardous and not healthy. I hope you wear nitrile gloves when you're doing that. Keep it off your skin. BTW,I buy a 1 lb. block of wax at Walmart,costs $5,lasts for several chain waxings. a little crockpot cost $10 at WM.
Use a wax based lube - even in winter it only needs a dry cloth for "regular" cleaning. Then ever so often take everything off, use degreaser, rinse, and thoroughly dry.
Simple way…put chain in slow cooker filled with melted paraffin. Let chain sit 15 minutes or so…remove, let it cool, re-install. While waiting, brush rear derailleur clean. This is the ‘old school’ method. Upside to paraffin is dirt doesn’t stick to it. Chain is cleaner. Relube about every 500 miles
I am of the “good enough” school of chain care: wipe down every ride, clean chain every week or two, clean cassette once a month or so, replace chain when the gauge tells me to, prob more frequently than if I were more exacting. I think I used 4 or 5 chains before I had to replace the cassette.
@David Nicholson. Thats exactly what I do. Perfectly clean chain and if you get a puncture you don't get your hands covered in oil Spotless chain for months. 👍
the question is whether it makes sense to do it in bikes for $ 300, where in such a bike, for example, a crank + cassette + chain costs $ 40 because in my opinion it does not make sense and a simple cleaning with a cloth and water is enough and a cheap lubricant for $ 5 and it's ready .
@@mrbeckham666 the wax I bought cost me £4.99 from Amazon. I've now waxed 4 chains with this batch of wax and I would estimate there is enough left for at least 4 more applications. And I haven't had to buy any oil, cheap or otherwise, to lubricate my chains. So all in all I would say waxing your chain is a lot cheaper than buying a new crank, cassette and chain every time they are worn out due to using cheap lubricant whether your bike is an expensive one or a cheap $300 one. Just my opinion. 👍
$3 can of degreaser from an auto shop and a motorcycle shop has an awesome range of chain lube which is way better than any bicycle products at a fraction of the cost.
Pour used solution in a gallon jug in the same manner as you would do with motor oil. When full, take it to your auto parts store. They will discard it. SIMPLE SOLUTION..
Simple, just flush it down the kitchen sink outlet, good for the waste water pipes as well. Followed by a hot "chaser" of caustic soda. Really give those pipes a jolly good scouring.
the question is whether it makes sense to do it in bikes for $ 300, where in such a bike, for example, a crank + cassette + chain costs $ 40 because in my opinion it does not make sense and a simple cleaning with a cloth and water is enough and a cheap lubricant for $ 5 and it's ready .
Having mountain biked for over 35 years, own a bike shop, been a bicycle mechanic for all that time and a pro wheel builder I find bike maintenance something I can feel confident about and one pet hate is... chain lube/cleaning. For years i followed the trend of buying the "Best" lube and then buying the "Best" chain cleaner and also constantly replacing chains and cassettes due to the UK winter eating drivetrains no mater what lube/cleaning. The i discovered Squirt chain lube and everything changed. Not only did i discover my drive train would not wear out but I didn't need to ever, EVER resort to using a chain cleaner. We also used it in our workshop with the same results, we now don't stock anything else. Now when I see adverts for lube, which then needs another product and kit to clean it off again I laugh. Save money/time and just use Squirt lube. Simples. Oh one more thing, It appears the world is catching on as other brands introduce simular wax based lubes. DITCH the OIL based lubes and never clean a chain again.
@@GrahamFootBicycleLover sponsored video, everyone’s got bills to pay. Plus most cyclists won’t bother with wax if they think it’s a faf, compared to drop and go live. Even if wax may be better overall people will stick with the familiar/easy
@@derekhobbs1102 I find the same, then the clean with a wire brush is a bit of a faff, running the chain through a rag seems to just push all that dirty wax into the links, I tried pouring a jug of boiling water over the chain to clean, didn't work. It is better for not attracting dust in dry weather so I continue to use it on my gravel and MTB, but prefer finish line dry or wet depending on conditions for my road bikes.
I just used CVT cleaner. Cover the rim set with old newspaper and sprayed it into the drivetrain. Then apply oil to the rollers and wipe it off.. Fast and easy😁
From my opinion, since I put only wax on my road bike chain, muc off degreaser is not compliant, except when I unbox my new bought chain to degrease it with mucoff and clean it with water and soap, dry it, and then put wax ont it. But, on my cyclo cross bike, since wax is not adaptated, I also use as you mucoff product to clean the chain (after a race) before putting lubricant.
I have one of those chain cleaners but usually just run the chain through a rag and re lube. Then when I wash the bike I clean the chain and cassette with Simple Green, rinses out with water, only time I bother with the chain contraption is when the bikes is pretty clean and I just want to clean the chain thougherly for a race, which is hardly ever these days.
Quick links can be undone and done up hundreds of times. I've never had a problem. Also consider white spirit instead of degreaser it's much more cost effective.
1st thing, I use only dry ptfe (Putoline) lube. From time to time I clean it with regular wd40, then pressure air. Im covering the disk before any of these operartions.
That Muc-Off chain machine is the worst I've used. Absolute pain to refill it with anything but Muc-Off's degreaser, and it doesn't do such a great job from my experience. I have a park one now, it's much better, and easy to refill.
I use a cheap unbranded (at least I don't see a name) chain cleaner that bends the chain around the brushes. I might have got it at REI as the replacement brushes from REI fit the tool. Way better than the Park Tool cleaner.
In the UK I could go to a recycling center and pour my liquid into a tank. In other countries you have to absorb the liquid into some kind of cloth/material and add it to your general garbage bag (which is not sustainable but better than soaking it into the soil). You could also go to a car service garage and ask then to take it off your hands for a fee maybe?
@@AndyCyclist thanks for the reply! I did look into my local recycling center and basically they have an amnesty once a year and don't accept at other times - so I think I'll just wait until the next time they do that.
While I love most of Muc-Off's stuff, I must say that the Pedro's Chain Pig is a far superior chain cleaner. Hands-free operation, lifetime warranty, replaceable innards, and it cleans exceptionally well (in my opinion). As for taking the chain off...why? It's a consumable. Like tires or brake pads. You're LUCKY to get 2K miles out of a chain. If you're taking the chain off, it's likely time for a new chain. Use the chain pig every couple hundred miles until your chain wear indicator tells you it has gone the way of the dodo. Done.
"You're LUCKY to get 2K miles out of a chain." You should get at least 6 to 8000 km with the use of a proper lubricant - like Silca Synergetic, Tru Tension Tungsten or Revolubes - and proper cleaning; over 20k km if you were to do immersion waxing with things like Silca Hot Melt or Moltenspeedwax. Sure, your chain is a consumable, but it doesn't mean it cannot last for a really long while before getting an other one.
2k miles out of a chain? I think you're forgetting to lubricate it after cleaning or something. Over here it's 7000-8000 km (so around 4,5k miles) and I don't even take real good care of it (usually just add some lubricant when it gets noisy, and only clean it when it's absolutely looking like it went through a barrel of tar or something 😂) I don't take the chain off to clean it, just wipe it down with some cloths and de-greaser, and add fresh lubricant. Oh, and these are cheap ass chains (around 9-10 euro's). If you're only getting 2000 miles out of it "if you're lucky" you might want to look into what you're doing wrong. (unless you maybe have an electric bike with mid motor and high wattage output, that'll kill chains.
@@esenel92 The difference is that I measure my chain and replace it before it starts to wear my drivetrain, maybe? Anyone can ride a chain forever. But the fact that they're 8-10 euros is exactly why you should replace them at 2K miles. Better to replace a 10 euro chain every 2K than a cassette every 6K. Not that cassettes last forever. But also, I totally see getting 5k miles out of a chain using the Silca hot melt chain wax and maintaining with Silca wax lube (and regular cleanings). I don't see the value in that intense upkeep on a 10 euro chain, but for a $75 SRAM Red chain, definitely. Or a chain that has been out of stock due to COVID induced supply chain issues...
@@seanrequiredfieldcannotbel1362 Well, the other parts seem to do fine, generally around 3 chains for a cassette (well, freewheel in my case) and generally once that thing goes I change the chainrings as well as I prefer to have those changed at the bike shop, and I really like to have another set of eyes going over my bike every 20-25 000 km or so in case there's something wrong I'm not seeing. I just use one of those simple chain checking tools to check for wear. If I really wear the chain down at some point it'l flex too much and the chain will start rubbing on other rings on the rear if it's slightly cross chained and that's a feeling that will make you change the chain quick enough XD (did around 12 000 km on 1 chain when due to the pandemic it was impossible to get a new one.. that grinding feeling in some gears was horrible 😬) Maybe we just have totally different systems or power outputs or something. Another thing you can do to use the chains longer and not worry about the gears is just have 2-3 chains, and swap em every 1000-2000 km (on regular intervals) that should reduce cassette/chainring wear, and they will wear down along with the chain more gradually.
@@seanrequiredfieldcannotbel1362 Planet Earth maybe? Because it's cheap I am going to throw it away just like that and buy a new one because it is cheap? 2022? Seriously? Duuuuude... 🙄
I took the plunge on this on the commuter bike being fed up with amount of degreaser I was using and the time/mess it was taking. I used Wolfblood Racing's PTFE blend with added MS2 (I believe this is the same as the brands stuff, at a lot more money!) along with food grade wax and a small stainless 'stock pot' - all from Amazon. I melt the wax on the electric hob/stove. Cleaning the chain thoroughly takes some time and you may want to purchase a second chain if you can't get it all done in a day (you'll get a spare to quickly swap over as well! I use the Connex quick links and you don't need any tools). I think it took me 4 or so soaks in a glass jar, then a couple of baths in Meths and finally in Isopropyl Alcohol (you can also use this to make up a batch of 'wet wax' - see Oz Cycles. Make sure you get a squeezy bottle with a decent sized nozzle). You want to get the wax to around 70c degrees to be thin enough to coat. I take the chain out at c.60c as any cooler and it starts to harden. The first week was fine, but it started squeaking after about 10 days. I recoated it and it's been about 4 weeks now without any sign of excess noise. I guess the first application didn't quite penetrate deep enough. If you get caught in the rain, just rinse of with cold water and dry it. You can then apply some wet wax for the next ride. You get some wax on the cassette, chain rings and chain stay but it just brushed off. I've now done the road bike too and I don't think I'll ever go back to Lube!! Hope that helps!
You want a rag stretched between your hands to clean the cassette, gets in between, it's better with the wheel off. Those fancy chain cleaners just break after a while, just use a rag with a spot of degreaser or even GT85 or WD-40 on it and put your hand with rag round the chain while turning the pedals backwards lots of times. You will have to adjust the rag as the muck comes off. Cheaper and keeps all cleaning fluids away from brake pads, if you contaminate them, bin them.
I remove the chain in its missing link. Place it in a glass jar with water and dishwashing liquid. Then shake it till the dirt gets off. Then place it on the clean drivetrain. Wipe off the chain with a rag. Then place chain lube.
I use gasoline for the chain (bath in a plastic jar), cassette, jockeys and cranks (with a toothbrush). I do this every 200-250 km, I reuse the gasoline multiple times and 5L of gasoline last me a whole year. It smells bad (especially if you live in an apartment) but it's really cheap compared to purchasing any other cleaning products and it works impeccably. Also, after lubing the chain one drop per link I wipe it off thoroughly so that it doesn't attract dirt. My bike rides like a dream all the time. After more than 1500 km with this chain it still feels like brand new and like it has another 1500 km to go. Zero wear on the cassette and cranks.
@@cdoubleplusgood yes, regular gasoline from the gas station, works like a charm. Yeah, it can be a bit irritating for your nose and throat, but it's nothing serious, only temporary, best to do it in open air.
@@silviupanait8861 Don't know how it is in your country, but here in Germany gasoline can have up to 1% benzene. Benzene causes cancer, mainly leukemia. If you say it causes irritation in your nose and throat you inhale a lot of it.
Subscribed.... i use a less effective technique but just a casual rider. spray degreaser on the chain and go over with a rag (chain still on bike)...then apply oil . for the cassette i sprayed degreaser on, and went over it with a rag..can you kindly show how you clean the cassette? my 2011 specialized roubaix does not have that flat section on the top of the chain (really cool), but i recall it IS UNIDIRECTIONAL. Please go deeper into this topic David. lots of us with older equipment. My chainbreaker too is really old (from 1970s) but at least i can get an old chain off and new one on... not gonna take the chain off in between. Can you also please discuss the way to dispose of muck-off or similar products? My rags just get mega greasy and go into the garbage (i.e. no fluids to dispose of)... As it it happens i did a deep clean of my bike and chain a couple of day ago, and LOVE the quiet / efficient drivetrain. (with a triple chainring i cannot get as well cleaned as i wish... for some reason my SK crank/chainring does not come apart with a hex key like my old Campy.... i wonder what i am screwing up? thanks for reading such a long comment. Peter, age 65 in Canada. raced a lot in the 1970s.... late add. i see you have video on cassette cleaning. thanks i will catch that now.
I use a long strip of cloth rag about an inch wide more or less you’ll figure out what works on your bike. Take your wheel off and place it freewheel side up on a 5 gallon bucket. Running water comes in handy here like a garden hose. Get ready favorite cleaner, I like Dawn dish detergent and Awesome Cleaner. Slid the strip of fabric between two gears, holding it taunt and pull and spin back, pull and spin back. When the fabric gets dirty find a clean section and repeat. Wash, rinse and repeat each gap. Enjoy 👍
Absolutely, I degrease twice with fresh fluid then follow up with two rinses using isopropyl ahcohol to rinse out the degreaser. Maybe three till clear. The chain then dries super fast with a few wipes of a micro fiber cloth. Clean cassette, jockey wheels and chain ring while soaking. Reinstall chain and use Muc-Off dry lube. Let that dry overnight and wipe with micro fiber before next ride. I’m in AZ so dry lube is tops.
4 litre plastic milk jug + white spirit. The bigger container lets you shake it harder. For the rear cog I twist strips of paper towel into strings and use those like dental floss between the cogs, then brush off the remaining dirt with white spirit
I don’t know- this procedure doesn’t make any sense if your not going on with hot waxing instead. Replacing the original grease out of the internal chain rollers is very problematic due to wear and effectiveness. It’s also not so dramatic if there is some dirt left. Just imagine to grase your sandpaper and try to sand a steel part. I take an old towel, spray a little bit of wd40 on it and spin the chain through the hands until it is clean. Then relube with an appropriate chain lube again. Wipe off any excessive. Also after the ride.
Came here to say this. Clean chain doesn't mean healthy chain. All the factory grease removed from inside the pressed rivets, then just surface recoating.mix that with reused quick link and could be a disaster
Absolutely. Never have to clean my chain anymore, unless after a wet ride, and just dip it in boiling water for a few seconds. So glad I switched to waxing one year ago
100% correct. I went all in this spring and completely degreased 4 chains and a used chain and went the way of ‘oz cycling’ channel and applied the wax/teflon(PTFE) powder. Made the mobile application wax applicator from 99.99% iso. Works like a charm. I have applied the wax drops after every ride and changed out the chain after approx 150 miles. The degreasing steps was where the most effort took place. The idea of a, dirt attracting oiled lube, just doesn’t make any sense. Wax is the way to go ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Does anybody of you used squirt? The liquid wax emulsion? I am thinking about switching but I am uncertain. Another thing: how often do I have to reapply the wax lubricant? I guess I will not take the chain off my bike
Its been said before, but consider waxing your chains, you’ll never look back. All that messiness and immediate black chain will be a thing of the past. I rotate 6 chains between my 2 bikes and get about 300km out of each waxed chain, before re applying. When I’m down to my last chain I run through the waxing process again, which in the end is no more complex than taking your chain off and putting it in a jar method. Let me know if you need help with it, I’d be happy walk you through it :)
@@bikelatino2146 Its as simple as boiling some water, removing the chain from the frame, and pouring that boiling water over the chain to remove the old wax. Then dry it and wax it again.
@@Ocaoj Just keep an old pot for cleaning purposes. Remove the chain and put it in the pot with some water. Boil it for a couple of minutes and hang it to dry. The chain is so hot by then, that the water evaporates ( spelled wrong I’m sure) in a matter of seconds.
I bought my first real bike. I have always riden hand me down. I was shocked to find I have rust on my chian. First time ever. My bike is stored out of the elements. My 100$ bike gave me 2000 km in riding with no worries. Thank you for tips.
I heard degreaser should not be used for the chain because the oil in between the links is being washed out and can hardly be replaced with chain lube. Have things changed in the last 5 years?
I tried using a glass jar for cleaning the chain but the first one broke when it slipped out of my hands while shaking it and the second one broke from the vibrations of the chain against the glass. Recommend using a plastic container instead.
if you lube your chain in a poor way then you will need to clean it more often, have used wax lubes for years - smoove mostly - chain lasts longer, cleans easier and stays clean longer.
Thst before is better than mine got to wah it tomorrow. I fall into the trsp of ob its going to rain tomorrow so it doesn't vet done. But i hsve a new 105 rd abd casette good enough for me. So i could do with getting some good mileage put of with current prices. Digression, i zaw a headline this energy crisis is affecting the well off too, my heart bleeds. Smfh.
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How do you clean your chain? If you need a clean cassette here's a related video ua-cam.com/video/lfC9rmhdM_A/v-deo.html
Yeah I use the cleaning cassette and degreaser like you do. Then I rewax the chain with SQUIRT wax. I have a question that when I posed it to GCN didn't get answered - why do new bike chains come waxed but thereafter chain wax is way harder to find and buy off the shelf than the plethora of chain oils? Oils just make a mess of chains in no time. I hate chain oils.
I clean my chain with brake cleaner , cassette with brush and parrafin oil, but first of all i secure disk brake from any drops, faster & cheaper i think
.. err
Soaking a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pulling the chain through it is all I do.
That's it.
Nothing else.
Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions.
No special expensive chain oil, chain wax and no degreaser or anything else needed.
Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to its viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is.
Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included.
There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain.
i just use some dishwashing liquid cus i looked at the ingredients and it seems to be the same shit but much cheaper. :D
I love the way you use regular basis on a regular basis during this video :)
hahahahahah true.... maybe too much "regular basis"
Definitely covered all the bases.
You ruined this video for me by point this out 😂
🤣🤣🤣
fr
After quite a few pints , I find it easy to clean my chain and surrounding areas .
Also derailleur adjustments are far easier when high .
brilliant :)
Best advice , on any subject , anywhere on t'internet.
I quit drinking, and now my chain is filthy!
I use a degreaser like Simple Green for the first go through the chain cleaner, then switch to very diluted dish soap for round two, then to plain water to rinse everything off. The chain comes out sparkling clean.
I've found that the best way to keep your drivetrain healthy, other than to clean it often, is to make very sure that you wipe off ALL the excess oil after you lube the chain. That one simple thing has done more to prevent the early death of chains and cassettes than anything else I've been able to figure out. Excess oil collects dirt like a magnet, and it can soon become a gritty paste that grinds away at all of your drivetrain components with remarkable efficiency.
I second that ! Bur even better, leave your bike overnight after lubing the chain and only then wipe off the excess oil.
I use rock n roll chain lube and they recommend that wiping it off, works great the gold stuff
Wax superiority
Dead right.
Wipe excess all 4 sides of the chain or just the side of the chain? On video always showed the side but what about the top n below of the chain?
It is a good idea to use a chain hook to hold the chain before opening the quick links else the tension in the derailleur may send the chain and quick links flying. Learned that the hard way.
I made a chain hook from a length of old wire coat hanger, a straight length a few inches long and then bend the ends into a hook
Having the gear in the smallest sprocket and little ring should take most of the tension out of the RD.
@@rob-c. or remove the chain from the ring entirely...
quick links are a godsend. Its so easy to take your chain off, stick it in a jar with some chain cleaning solution and give it a proper going over, why wouldnt you! Ive been doing that for several years now (KMC DLC quicklinks) and it makes a huge difference, makes it much easier to clean your cassette and chainrings aswell. win win.
I think you said "on a regular basis" more than I have ever uttered the phrase in my life during this short video, and I am 762 years old! - Good video in any case, useful info.
Your ‘before’ chain looks cleaner than my ‘after’ chain 😂
Tip: Cleaning the chain and cassette on the bike can often slightly contaminate the brake rotor. I like to clean the rotor with iso or similar cleaner after I am done with the drivetrain just to be safe.
Thanks for that. Good tip.
Agree, make use a piece of cardboard cut out around the hub to stop any splashing.
Alternatively wax dip your chain, and you always have sparkling drivetrain!
Another option is to throw a shower cap over the back disc/caliper while cleaning/lubing
I use inexpensive automotive brake cleaner each time I clean the chain.
Rim brakes gang
Brilliant, the one thing I will add is that there is something to be said to get more comfortable taking the chain off and putting back on because if you don’t your first time may be in front of a bunch of people helping someone with a broken chain like me and you may do it wrong lol.
If you ride when the ground is wet or just after it rains, little grains of sand stick to the tires and fall onto the chain and sprockets. Needs to be removed as it’s super abrasive. Good video. A reminder a little “preventative maintenance” will help keep a smooth ride on the bike.
Happened to me few weeks ago.
I used RSP's degreaser with a cleaning device similar to the one shown in the video but I couldn't get rid of all the trapped sand.
You need to be careful with the Muc-Off degreaser on the cassette. I used it quite enthusiastically for a while and it got into the bearings of my rear wheel, dissolving the grease, so I had to replace the bearings. Now I use Squirt wax lubricant and clean the chain with a rag every week. Once a year, I remove the chain and cassette and clean them thoroughly.
I thought the same thing. Removing the cassette makes sense!
I only clean my cassette with it removed. Too worried about ruining the hub
I love how David split off and made his own channel. This guy truly knows his bikes and knows how to review as if you were the one purchasing.
where was he before?
@@Byerly92 road cc
As well as the sliced beetroot jar, I have also had success with a picked gherkin jar and hope to be trying other tasty products soon. I use a food-grade wax bath with a pinch of teflon powder.
cleaning the chain, I would recommend a plastic jar and not a glass one if you are going to shake it up like that. When cleaning the cassette/freewheel, if you are spraying the degreaser on, use a shield to keep the degreaser from contaminating the brakes.
White vinegar and detergent diluted with water is awesome degreaser
Taking effort to take off might as well hot wax it. So easy and chain just always looks clean and no more grease spots on hands or legs.
I ride my EMTB daily at all conditions and I never clean chain and it works just fine. But I use it in combo with Kindernay gear hub. I never had issues with chain. I change chain once in 3-4 years (maybe around 8000 miles) with front and rear sprockets (quite cheap) all together when the front sprocket teeth become shark fin shaped and start sliding on the chain.
You could maybe double that mileage with proper maintenance.
Great tutorial, please do allow me to share my washing routine, i use the muc off c3 dry lube (dish soap soluble no need for degreaser AT ALL) So i blast water into the chain links and spray dish washing liquid on the chain and brush all of the chain + pulley + chain rings and i once again blast it. By this stage the only thing on the bike is dirt on the frame and totally oil free. I then spray dish washing liquid all over the bike without any care for rotors because if you can eat off your plates, your rotors will not be contaminated. I then sponge wash the whole bike and proceed to drying/protection. Since i have used Turtlewax ice seal and shine on the frame and wheels, dishwashing liquid will NOT remove any hydrophobic coating at all (proof on youtube video on the turtlewax) all i have to do is use a portable air blower to blast off the water and since it is hydrophobic it just slides off. I blast all bolts as well as FD and FD as well as chain. By this time the bike is 100% dry and chain is 80% dry. I feel comfortable to relube the FD, RD and chain with 0% chance of contaminating the brake rotor. I bought the muc off protect but i have never found it to be a good idea to spray any aerosol anywhere within 50m radius of my pads and rotors. I wash my bike once every week and they are absolutely pristine.
I regularly clean my chain and the rear end/ mech. first off I spray the chain with Screwfix "no-nonsense" degreaser and leave for a few minutes brushing to agitate. Then i put the same degreaser into a park tool chain bath and give it 30 revs, tip that out then fill up with muc off and do the same. Then its hot water with washing up liquid and again 30 revs i use a chain dummy hub to keep it taut on the bike, i will then dry the chain off and wipe it down with a cloth soaked in GT85 to drive any water out and as a final clean. I lubricate each link individually spin the chain to make sure its all gone through and leave.
I do pay attention to the jockey wheels
.
I do the same with the cassette really brushing to get it all out.
1. Proper lubrication = correct wet/dry lube + right way of putting it on the chain (not as mucoff advice).
2. Regular cleaning after every ride and deep cleaning once per 2-3 weeks.
Unless you are MTB'ing in the muck every Sunday, there's no need to clean 'after every ride'; even then I would just hose it off. Even in 3rd world countries, riding on the street is not going warrant that level of retardedness.
The correct answer is: there should never been enough dirt in your chain to cause a level of degradation of the chain+cassette+chainring that you can't afford.
These are bikes, not motorcycles or cars...take it easy.
REGULAR BASIS
I use chain wax. Re-wax every 3-4 rides or about 200km or after I wash and dry my bikes. Wipe excess and leave it overnight. Super clean.
Yes, but you’re not sponsored by Muc-Off!
Too much effort for me
@@infocuslearning no, I'm not. Self-sponsored 😜
@@quarkonium3795 Takes me about 5 minutes to re-wax my chain. It doesn't attract dirt and grime so there is less wear and tear resulting in a longer chain/drivetrain lifespan.
In a hot, dry climate I use a dry lube (often). Wax tends to melt. I like the chain wax idea for colder climates but it is a lot of work to put it on even a new chain properly.
I have a pretty simple way. I have old bottle where I cut the top off and pour biodegradable degreaser. Then I dip the the brush to degreaser and spread it to chain and all drivetrain parts. I take rear wheel off at first and replace it with dummy hub. I also wash a whole bike when clean drivetrain. Comes clean enough for me.
The best solvent for cleaning oil is oil. Having cleaned plenty of motorbike chains over the years I’ve found the best cleaning solvents to be either paraffin/kerosene or diesel. They dissolve old chain lube while not destroying any o-rings (as petrol might). They are both lubricants in their own rights so they won’t cause any adverse issues as a degreaser might. Once the chain is clean, wipe it dry or even blow with an airline and reapply your favourite lube.
Yes - I always use diesel, but only in the dead of night on my neighbours drive…
You are dead right, I use kero then blow it dry using air compressor. Soak chain in 5W30 synthetic oil, hang it so to drip excess oil into bowl etc. The used kero is recycled via a funnel and paper kitchen towel (inside funnel) back into empty bottle ready for next chain clean.
Everybody is talking about waxing the chain but I cycle 400 km weekly, on dirty roads in Ireland, I don't see myself waxing and all the hassle twice weekly. Once weekly with a clot soaked in petrol, fresh wd40 spray andvthats it. Takes 1 min. And I buy 3 chains a year, is probably cheaper than all the waxing
WD is not a lube. In fact, I use it on detailers (only) to clean an protect them. You may find better life and quieter chain with an actual lubricant. My favorite is muck-off dry lube. Works great. Tests well. Doesn't attract too much.
@@reynolds8532 a clot soaked in petrol is a stoopid idea. i used to work for a guy, who was using a mix of petrol and jizer for a degrease job............ and managed to set light to himself. his hands in particular were melted. NO i'm not giving B/S.
NEVER EVER USE PETROL AS A CLEANER
@@reynolds8532 WD-40 also has bike chain lubes and other bike-related stuff
WD40 is mostly dewaxed kerosene. it's not a lubricant,it's a water displacer. you'd be better off lubing your chain with straight kerosene/paraffin oil,it leaves a waxy film on the chain. but it still won't last very long. messing with petrol (gasoline) is hazardous and not healthy. I hope you wear nitrile gloves when you're doing that. Keep it off your skin. BTW,I buy a 1 lb. block of wax at Walmart,costs $5,lasts for several chain waxings. a little crockpot cost $10 at WM.
Use a wax based lube - even in winter it only needs a dry cloth for "regular" cleaning. Then ever so often take everything off, use degreaser, rinse, and thoroughly dry.
Simple way…put chain in slow cooker filled with melted paraffin. Let chain sit 15 minutes or so…remove, let it cool, re-install. While waiting, brush rear derailleur clean. This is the ‘old school’ method. Upside to paraffin is dirt doesn’t stick to it. Chain is cleaner. Relube about every 500 miles
I use Safer Spirit and a Pedros Chain Pig. It works a treat.
pickup a ultrasonic cleaner - the results are amazing, chains look NEW after a few minutes
How much that cost though ??
@@raymondo162 when I purchased from Harbor Freight it was < $70 now its $85 - you'll love it
I apply Dawn dish washing soap to the chain and let it soak a couple of minutes then fill scrubber with Simple Green. Rinse and it’s really clean.
Servlene is the best of all degreaser! No mess, easy to clean.
I am of the “good enough” school of chain care: wipe down every ride, clean chain every week or two, clean cassette once a month or so, replace chain when the gauge tells me to, prob more frequently than if I were more exacting. I think I used 4 or 5 chains before I had to replace the cassette.
Same as me gt 85 with a rag after every ride , degreaser every month on cassette and chain
Hot melt wax and a three chain rotation. Perfectly spotless drivetrain and is actually less work.
Don't even need hot wax. I use Dupont chain wax with Teflon. Easy peasy, keeps chain spotless.
@@rider65 not for long, though
@David Nicholson.
Thats exactly what I do. Perfectly clean chain and if you get a puncture you don't get your hands covered in oil
Spotless chain for months. 👍
the question is whether it makes sense to do it in bikes for $ 300, where in such a bike, for example, a crank + cassette + chain costs $ 40 because in my opinion it does not make sense and a simple cleaning with a cloth and water is enough and a cheap lubricant for $ 5 and it's ready .
@@mrbeckham666 the wax I bought cost me £4.99 from Amazon. I've now waxed 4 chains with this batch of wax and I would estimate there is enough left for at least 4 more applications. And I haven't had to buy any oil, cheap or otherwise, to lubricate my chains. So all in all I would say waxing your chain is a lot cheaper than buying a new crank, cassette and chain every time they are worn out due to using cheap lubricant whether your bike is an expensive one or a cheap $300 one. Just my opinion. 👍
Happy new year!! Hope this year is as awesome as the last!!!
$3 can of degreaser from an auto shop and a motorcycle shop has an awesome range of chain lube which is way better than any bicycle products at a fraction of the cost.
Love your work!!! No nonsense and great information.
3:36 - Remove chain carefully... Don't mind the bike...
🙈 He had less slack the other way!
Was thinking the same thing :D
What do you do with all the used decreaser?
Pour used solution in a gallon jug in the same manner as you would do with motor oil. When full, take it to your auto parts store. They will discard it. SIMPLE SOLUTION..
Simple, just flush it down the kitchen sink outlet, good for the waste water pipes as well. Followed by a hot "chaser" of caustic soda.
Really give those pipes a jolly good scouring.
I clean my chains in White spirit or turps in a glass jar. Does a really great job. It’s probably cheaper than the muck off de greaser.
Gardens crying out for some plants David🌲🌹
😃
the question is whether it makes sense to do it in bikes for $ 300, where in such a bike, for example, a crank + cassette + chain costs $ 40 because in my opinion it does not make sense and a simple cleaning with a cloth and water is enough and a cheap lubricant for $ 5 and it's ready .
Having mountain biked for over 35 years, own a bike shop, been a bicycle mechanic for all that time and a pro wheel builder I find bike maintenance something I can feel confident about and one pet hate is... chain lube/cleaning. For years i followed the trend of buying the "Best" lube and then buying the "Best" chain cleaner and also constantly replacing chains and cassettes due to the UK winter eating drivetrains no mater what lube/cleaning. The i discovered Squirt chain lube and everything changed. Not only did i discover my drive train would not wear out but I didn't need to ever, EVER resort to using a chain cleaner. We also used it in our workshop with the same results, we now don't stock anything else. Now when I see adverts for lube, which then needs another product and kit to clean it off again I laugh. Save money/time and just use Squirt lube. Simples. Oh one more thing, It appears the world is catching on as other brands introduce simular wax based lubes. DITCH the OIL based lubes and never clean a chain again.
Yup I’ve been a long time fan of Squirt as well. Keen to see what this Silca stuff is like in comparison
@@davidarthur slightly confused then haha.
I'm on the Squirt bandwagon, but my chain ends up pretty filthy still. I did give it a deep clean and dry straight out of the packet.
@@GrahamFootBicycleLover sponsored video, everyone’s got bills to pay. Plus most cyclists won’t bother with wax if they think it’s a faf, compared to drop and go live. Even if wax may be better overall people will stick with the familiar/easy
@@derekhobbs1102 I find the same, then the clean with a wire brush is a bit of a faff, running the chain through a rag seems to just push all that dirty wax into the links, I tried pouring a jug of boiling water over the chain to clean, didn't work. It is better for not attracting dust in dry weather so I continue to use it on my gravel and MTB, but prefer finish line dry or wet depending on conditions for my road bikes.
I just used CVT cleaner. Cover the rim set with old newspaper and sprayed it into the drivetrain. Then apply oil to the rollers and wipe it off.. Fast and easy😁
I don’t have time to clean my bike…ride hard everyday …just keep oiling the chain job done 🤗🥳
I was surprised the jar wasn’t from Muc Off.
😂🤣👏👏
From my opinion, since I put only wax on my road bike chain, muc off degreaser is not compliant, except when I unbox my new bought chain to degrease it with mucoff and clean it with water and soap, dry it, and then put wax ont it. But, on my cyclo cross bike, since wax is not adaptated, I also use as you mucoff product to clean the chain (after a race) before putting lubricant.
I have one of those chain cleaners but usually just run the chain through a rag and re lube. Then when I wash the bike I clean the chain and cassette with Simple Green, rinses out with water, only time I bother with the chain contraption is when the bikes is pretty clean and I just want to clean the chain thougherly for a race, which is hardly ever these days.
Quick links can be undone and done up hundreds of times. I've never had a problem. Also consider white spirit instead of degreaser it's much more cost effective.
1st thing, I use only dry ptfe (Putoline) lube. From time to time I clean it with regular wd40, then pressure air. Im covering the disk before any of these operartions.
Take a shot, everytime David said: Regular basis. Joking a side, good info / video!
That Muc-Off chain machine is the worst I've used. Absolute pain to refill it with anything but Muc-Off's degreaser, and it doesn't do such a great job from my experience. I have a park one now, it's much better, and easy to refill.
I use a cheap unbranded (at least I don't see a name) chain cleaner that bends the chain around the brushes. I might have got it at REI as the replacement brushes from REI fit the tool. Way better than the Park Tool cleaner.
what’s the best way to (responsibly) dispose of the mucky degreaser?
In the UK I could go to a recycling center and pour my liquid into a tank. In other countries you have to absorb the liquid into some kind of cloth/material and add it to your general garbage bag (which is not sustainable but better than soaking it into the soil). You could also go to a car service garage and ask then to take it off your hands for a fee maybe?
@@AndyCyclist thanks for the reply! I did look into my local recycling center and basically they have an amnesty once a year and don't accept at other times - so I think I'll just wait until the next time they do that.
Best stuff to clean a chain is turps in chain cleaner thoroughly wipe and use a car oil in each link
While I love most of Muc-Off's stuff, I must say that the Pedro's Chain Pig is a far superior chain cleaner. Hands-free operation, lifetime warranty, replaceable innards, and it cleans exceptionally well (in my opinion). As for taking the chain off...why? It's a consumable. Like tires or brake pads. You're LUCKY to get 2K miles out of a chain. If you're taking the chain off, it's likely time for a new chain. Use the chain pig every couple hundred miles until your chain wear indicator tells you it has gone the way of the dodo. Done.
"You're LUCKY to get 2K miles out of a chain."
You should get at least 6 to 8000 km with the use of a proper lubricant - like Silca Synergetic, Tru Tension Tungsten or Revolubes - and proper cleaning; over 20k km if you were to do immersion waxing with things like Silca Hot Melt or Moltenspeedwax.
Sure, your chain is a consumable, but it doesn't mean it cannot last for a really long while before getting an other one.
2k miles out of a chain? I think you're forgetting to lubricate it after cleaning or something. Over here it's 7000-8000 km (so around 4,5k miles) and I don't even take real good care of it (usually just add some lubricant when it gets noisy, and only clean it when it's absolutely looking like it went through a barrel of tar or something 😂)
I don't take the chain off to clean it, just wipe it down with some cloths and de-greaser, and add fresh lubricant. Oh, and these are cheap ass chains (around 9-10 euro's). If you're only getting 2000 miles out of it "if you're lucky" you might want to look into what you're doing wrong. (unless you maybe have an electric bike with mid motor and high wattage output, that'll kill chains.
@@esenel92 The difference is that I measure my chain and replace it before it starts to wear my drivetrain, maybe? Anyone can ride a chain forever. But the fact that they're 8-10 euros is exactly why you should replace them at 2K miles. Better to replace a 10 euro chain every 2K than a cassette every 6K. Not that cassettes last forever. But also, I totally see getting 5k miles out of a chain using the Silca hot melt chain wax and maintaining with Silca wax lube (and regular cleanings). I don't see the value in that intense upkeep on a 10 euro chain, but for a $75 SRAM Red chain, definitely. Or a chain that has been out of stock due to COVID induced supply chain issues...
@@seanrequiredfieldcannotbel1362 Well, the other parts seem to do fine, generally around 3 chains for a cassette (well, freewheel in my case) and generally once that thing goes I change the chainrings as well as I prefer to have those changed at the bike shop, and I really like to have another set of eyes going over my bike every 20-25 000 km or so in case there's something wrong I'm not seeing.
I just use one of those simple chain checking tools to check for wear.
If I really wear the chain down at some point it'l flex too much and the chain will start rubbing on other rings on the rear if it's slightly cross chained and that's a feeling that will make you change the chain quick enough XD
(did around 12 000 km on 1 chain when due to the pandemic it was impossible to get a new one.. that grinding feeling in some gears was horrible 😬)
Maybe we just have totally different systems or power outputs or something.
Another thing you can do to use the chains longer and not worry about the gears is just have 2-3 chains, and swap em every 1000-2000 km (on regular intervals) that should reduce cassette/chainring wear, and they will wear down along with the chain more gradually.
@@seanrequiredfieldcannotbel1362 Planet Earth maybe? Because it's cheap I am going to throw it away just like that and buy a new one because it is cheap? 2022? Seriously? Duuuuude... 🙄
Love the sensible TCR
Nothing beats white spirit for price and it works.
rubbing alcohol is the best for deep clean the chain and we do use wd40 and paint thinner
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on waxing the chain ?
I took the plunge on this on the commuter bike being fed up with amount of degreaser I was using and the time/mess it was taking.
I used Wolfblood Racing's PTFE blend with added MS2 (I believe this is the same as the brands stuff, at a lot more money!) along with food grade wax and a small stainless 'stock pot' - all from Amazon. I melt the wax on the electric hob/stove.
Cleaning the chain thoroughly takes some time and you may want to purchase a second chain if you can't get it all done in a day (you'll get a spare to quickly swap over as well! I use the Connex quick links and you don't need any tools). I think it took me 4 or so soaks in a glass jar, then a couple of baths in Meths and finally in Isopropyl Alcohol (you can also use this to make up a batch of 'wet wax' - see Oz Cycles. Make sure you get a squeezy bottle with a decent sized nozzle).
You want to get the wax to around 70c degrees to be thin enough to coat. I take the chain out at c.60c as any cooler and it starts to harden.
The first week was fine, but it started squeaking after about 10 days. I recoated it and it's been about 4 weeks now without any sign of excess noise. I guess the first application didn't quite penetrate deep enough.
If you get caught in the rain, just rinse of with cold water and dry it. You can then apply some wet wax for the next ride.
You get some wax on the cassette, chain rings and chain stay but it just brushed off. I've now done the road bike too and I don't think I'll ever go back to Lube!!
Hope that helps!
In a jar...why didn’t I think of that before? It’s so convenient!
Jar is great
You want a rag stretched between your hands to clean the cassette, gets in between, it's better with the wheel off. Those fancy chain cleaners just break after a while, just use a rag with a spot of degreaser or even GT85 or WD-40 on it and put your hand with rag round the chain while turning the pedals backwards lots of times. You will have to adjust the rag as the muck comes off. Cheaper and keeps all cleaning fluids away from brake pads, if you contaminate them, bin them.
I use tie rip or flat driver for some cleaning parts of the drivetrain
I remove the chain in its missing link. Place it in a glass jar with water and dishwashing liquid. Then shake it till the dirt gets off. Then place it on the clean drivetrain. Wipe off the chain with a rag. Then place chain lube.
I use gasoline for the chain (bath in a plastic jar), cassette, jockeys and cranks (with a toothbrush). I do this every 200-250 km, I reuse the gasoline multiple times and 5L of gasoline last me a whole year. It smells bad (especially if you live in an apartment) but it's really cheap compared to purchasing any other cleaning products and it works impeccably. Also, after lubing the chain one drop per link I wipe it off thoroughly so that it doesn't attract dirt. My bike rides like a dream all the time. After more than 1500 km with this chain it still feels like brand new and like it has another 1500 km to go. Zero wear on the cassette and cranks.
Do you mean regular gasoline from the gas station? Please don't do that. It's toxic.
@@cdoubleplusgood yes, regular gasoline from the gas station, works like a charm. Yeah, it can be a bit irritating for your nose and throat, but it's nothing serious, only temporary, best to do it in open air.
@@silviupanait8861 Don't know how it is in your country, but here in Germany gasoline can have up to 1% benzene. Benzene causes cancer, mainly leukemia. If you say it causes irritation in your nose and throat you inhale a lot of it.
@@cdoubleplusgood I wouldn't know, but thanks for the heads-up, I'll look into it
Subscribed.... i use a less effective technique but just a casual rider. spray degreaser on the chain and go over with a rag (chain still on bike)...then apply oil . for the cassette i sprayed degreaser on, and went over it with a rag..can you kindly show how you clean the cassette? my 2011 specialized roubaix does not have that flat section on the top of the chain (really cool), but i recall it IS UNIDIRECTIONAL. Please go deeper into this topic David. lots of us with older equipment. My chainbreaker too is really old (from 1970s) but at least i can get an old chain off and new one on... not gonna take the chain off in between. Can you also please discuss the way to dispose of muck-off or similar products? My rags just get mega greasy and go into the garbage (i.e. no fluids to dispose of)... As it it happens i did a deep clean of my bike and chain a couple of day ago, and LOVE the quiet / efficient drivetrain. (with a triple chainring i cannot get as well cleaned as i wish... for some reason my SK crank/chainring does not come apart with a hex key like my old Campy.... i wonder what i am screwing up?
thanks for reading such a long comment. Peter, age 65 in Canada. raced a lot in the 1970s.... late add. i see you have video on cassette cleaning. thanks i will catch that now.
Now we need a video on how to clean efficiently and quickly the cassette and the crankset 😀
I use a long strip of cloth rag about an inch wide more or less you’ll figure out what works on your bike. Take your wheel off and place it freewheel side up on a 5 gallon bucket. Running water comes in handy here like a garden hose. Get ready favorite cleaner, I like Dawn dish detergent and Awesome Cleaner. Slid the strip of fabric between two gears, holding it taunt and pull and spin back, pull and spin back. When the fabric gets dirty find a clean section and repeat. Wash, rinse and repeat each gap. Enjoy 👍
Are you Wayne Gretzky's long-lost relative? 😋 Either way, great video 👍
Should you not rinse the degreaser off before lubrication?
Absolutely, I degrease twice with fresh fluid then follow up with two rinses using isopropyl ahcohol to rinse out the degreaser. Maybe three till clear. The chain then dries super fast with a few wipes of a micro fiber cloth. Clean cassette, jockey wheels and chain ring while soaking. Reinstall chain and use Muc-Off dry lube. Let that dry overnight and wipe with micro fiber before next ride. I’m in AZ so dry lube is tops.
He said he rinsed it off under the tap, then let it dry in the sun before lubing
After you use the chain cleaner device do you then rinse off the chain with water?
Evening.. it is much cheaper to buy a bottle of degreaser or kitchen cleaner from Aldi or Lidl.. it works really well !
MuckOff bundles plus Daavid’s discount, plus free shipping, make the offer half-price atm - great value
tend to use sram quick links for mtb. can use them quite a few times as long as the lock sturdily. Still carry a spare just incase
Got in trouble with the missus for putting my chain in the dishwasher. Worked tho!
White spirit is a good, quick and cheap degreaser. Yet nowadays I use Cif/Jif for smaller jobs.
👍🏾 How do you clean the rear cassette Dave ?
4 litre plastic milk jug + white spirit. The bigger container lets you shake it harder. For the rear cog I twist strips of paper towel into strings and use those like dental floss between the cogs, then brush off the remaining dirt with white spirit
I purchases some pipe cleaners from ebay, also good to clean around the suspension linkages on my mountain bike
Spray with gt 85 , then use chain cleaning tool, cutting out having to wash degreaser off before lube
Already wax and remove chain. Curious how you got that cassette looking so good
I don’t know- this procedure doesn’t make any sense if your not going on with hot waxing instead.
Replacing the original grease out of the internal chain rollers is very problematic due to wear and effectiveness. It’s also not so dramatic if there is some dirt left. Just imagine to grase your sandpaper and try to sand a steel part. I take an old towel, spray a little bit of wd40 on it and spin the chain through the hands until it is clean. Then relube with an appropriate chain lube again. Wipe off any excessive. Also after the ride.
Came here to say this. Clean chain doesn't mean healthy chain. All the factory grease removed from inside the pressed rivets, then just surface recoating.mix that with reused quick link and could be a disaster
once you wax you don't go back, oiled chains are inherently dirty muck magnets
Absolutely. Never have to clean my chain anymore, unless after a wet ride, and just dip it in boiling water for a few seconds. So glad I switched to waxing one year ago
Agree i just wipe the chain and re apply wax. Saves you money and time
100% correct. I went all in this spring and completely degreased 4 chains and a used chain and went the way of ‘oz cycling’ channel and applied the wax/teflon(PTFE) powder. Made the mobile application wax applicator from 99.99% iso. Works like a charm. I have applied the wax drops after every ride and changed out the chain after approx 150 miles. The degreasing steps was where the most effort took place. The idea of a, dirt attracting oiled lube, just doesn’t make any sense. Wax is the way to go ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Yes, best move ever 👍
Does anybody of you used squirt? The liquid wax emulsion? I am thinking about switching but I am uncertain. Another thing: how often do I have to reapply the wax lubricant? I guess I will not take the chain off my bike
Morgan blue chain bath followed by Muc-off dry/wet ceramic lube!
i use plain diesel for chain cleaning. saves a lot of money.
How do you safely dispose of the de-greaser?
Around here there are drop offs at the local fire station and city dump.
Great video
Did you say, to clean your chain via the cassette cleaner, you need to peddle backwards? If if yes, why not forward
I wish you showed some ' dirty ' chains on that scrubber . I like my ultrasonic cleaner for chain cleaning .
Interesting, i thought that the quick link is only to be used once? at least thats what i thought i read on the instructions from Shimano.
Big thumb up for Giant 🖤
Its been said before, but consider waxing your chains, you’ll never look back. All that messiness and immediate black chain will be a thing of the past. I rotate 6 chains between my 2 bikes and get about 300km out of each waxed chain, before re applying. When I’m down to my last chain I run through the waxing process again, which in the end is no more complex than taking your chain off and putting it in a jar method. Let me know if you need help with it, I’d be happy walk you through it :)
What cleaning fluid do you use on your waxed chains? Regular degreaser does not work well.
@@garypritchard2521 Boling water to remove the old wax.
Can you make a video about it?
@@bikelatino2146 Its as simple as boiling some water, removing the chain from the frame, and pouring that boiling water over the chain to remove the old wax. Then dry it and wax it again.
@@Ocaoj
Just keep an old pot for cleaning purposes. Remove the chain and put it in the pot with some water. Boil it for a couple of minutes and hang it to dry. The chain is so hot by then, that the water evaporates ( spelled wrong I’m sure) in a matter of seconds.
Heavy degreaser for car engines is twice cheaper and also does the work.
I used to do this. Now I am a chain waxer. No more lube. No black marks. No degreasing required.
I bought my first real bike. I have always riden hand me down. I was shocked to find I have rust on my chian. First time ever. My bike is stored out of the elements. My 100$ bike gave me 2000 km in riding with no worries. Thank you for tips.
I heard degreaser should not be used for the chain because the oil in between the links is being washed out and can hardly be replaced with chain lube. Have things changed in the last 5 years?
There is a de-greaser that sold in lots of supermarkets called "Lestoil"
I tried using a glass jar for cleaning the chain but the first one broke when it slipped out of my hands while shaking it and the second one broke from the vibrations of the chain against the glass. Recommend using a plastic container instead.
drinking game: one shot every time he says regular basis
if you lube your chain in a poor way then you will need to clean it more often, have used wax lubes for years - smoove mostly - chain lasts longer, cleans easier and stays clean longer.
Does wax build up and need removing over time?
No Nonsense Degreaser is under £10 for 5 litres at screw fix. Takes me years to go through a bottle
Hi Oliver I saw that also, is it ok for bike chains?
@@carerra911 I've used it in my chain cleaner for years yep
Thst before is better than mine got to wah it tomorrow. I fall into the trsp of ob its going to rain tomorrow so it doesn't vet done. But i hsve a new 105 rd abd casette good enough for me. So i could do with getting some good mileage put of with current prices. Digression, i zaw a headline this energy crisis is affecting the well off too, my heart bleeds. Smfh.
Just so I'm clear, should I do this on a regular basis?