Nissan Dualis ABS Modulator FAIL
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- Опубліковано 7 бер 2024
- The ABS modulator in our 2010 Nissan Dualis has released the magic smoke.
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Let's take it apart!
I will happily watch any automotive electrical repair video. A different type of challenge
It's likely to be the ABS module thats gone t*ts up, so it'll be sending false signals to the modulator, keeping it running even when the ignition is off.
I'd love to see a followup video once the failure has been rectified, and a teardown of the ABS module if it is indeed the culprit! I love vehicle electronics. One of the reasons I became a mechanic.
Yes power driver in the ABS unit has failed short circuit. New module time, though thankfully the new one will not need ot be married to the ECU and display cluster, along with the security module. For interim just disconnect the ABS unit from the bus, using the connector on it, and wrap the connector ends in a plastic bag to keep dust out. You will have an orange ABS and traction warning on the dash while you drive to the dealership, but it will be fine otherwise, just no ABS, and no traction control, basically reverting to 1990 again.
You have two main fuses that feed the ABS- one is a 50A fuse and the other is 30A. (labeled H and I).. You might try pulling those fuses under the hood, one at a time; but they may feed other things. Frankly, I'd just unplug the module at the ABS
Relay stuck on??
It shouldn't make that noise, so I think it's some electronics
Relay welded, or worse yet the computer logic for it has shorted transistor. Rodents?
Even if a control transistor was shorted the relay should shut off when the switched ignition feed is killed.
Not necessarily but in this case it will be the ABS module which is usually part of the pump , remove the ABS fuse and it will stop the pump running your brakes will still work fine you just won't have ABS.@@eDoc2020
That might explain why the battery mysteriously died a few months ago, might be time to buy a Toyota🤣
Most likely a stuck/welded relay, or FET in the ABS module has gone wonky.
A possibility is a wiring issue involving rodent damage or corrosion, moisture etc, wheel speed sensor issue, or an issue with another critical input to the module.
The ABS module relies on quite a few different sensor inputs, like the wheel speed sensors etc for it to decide when/if the activate the pump, so it should never activate other than when needed, and never when the key is off.👍🇦🇺
Why is no one saying just to give it a whack.
That's the mechanic's equivalent of turn it off and on again.
This mechanical contraption is known in Portugal as Nissan Qashqai. Mine is 1.5Dci Diesel 220000 Kn without major issues
they used that name later on in Australia. Not sure if they still do.
Once it cools.. If you just reach down there to the ABS -- and unplug the module. The plug has a large rotating latch.. If you just unplug it, you can still drive it until you get it repaired. Inside the module there are a number of relays and it sounds like one is stuck on... also, in America this thing is called a "NISSAN ROGUE
It's a Nissan Qashqai in the rest of the world.
This looks like Bosch ABS, there were two variations of it. Earlier versions had ECU in the back of the car where all wheel sensors etc were run to. Newer version of ABS pump had ECU mounted on the pump itself. Easy to tell the difference by looking at the amount of cables going into the pump if it makes sense. From what I understand pump motor should kick in when ABS is triggered. It is either logic board, grounds, wiring or the relay as suggested earlier.
This is the best comment on the problem, if you have a ECU communicator aske the ECU did you turn on the pump ,my opinion: the car not moving , probably ABS control unit is dead , because if the realeay is switched contioniusly the ecu senses something wrong and makes warning light or something , but in this case its just stuck in the last position. But I am better making parts than finding a problem in other cars.
Faulty wheel sensors can make the ABS pump run constantly as sensors keep telling the system that they're going crazy fast. You can try to see if moving the tires into a different position helps any. Could be that you're missing permanent magnets on the wheel speed ring
@@YouzY666 YES that is a vaild , but the q is the car has a accelerating sensor (probably has), and if , the sensor talks to the ECU and the ECU cheks the validations on other sensor for the other sensors.
If its staying on id say relays contacts have welded together. Try changing with a different relay thats the same kind and see if it stays on
Yep and because the engine isn't running something else won't be in the correct state I guess.
Stuck relay?.....Apparently the ABS relay is located inside black box attached to ABS pump not in master relay/ fuse box.
The pump relay is build-in to the abs unit itself.
ABS has its own Power and Speed input, but also has other inputs via the CAN Bus. If the PCB has water ingress, then I suggest that could be a fault. Checking CAN Bus resistance might help.
Yes, you could pull the fuse, though you wont have ABS until diagnosed.
Find the abs relay and tap it. our R50 did the same, we tapped the relay close to the unit and is stopped. I replaced the relay just to make sure it doesn't do it again.
Shorted FET in the ABS controller which controls the motor. The motor should never be on when the vehicle is off.
Probably corrosion on the gate pin.
Suspect your brake fluid is fine. If it wasn't you'd probably get a warning light about that and/or no brakes. Probably a relay or a sensor that controls the relay. My 2c, even though it won't help a great deal.
Abs module most likely. You could probably just replace the blown fet .
Probably caused by the earth quake in Sydney last night.
I had someone that had the same problem like that and they took the relay out to the abs they haven't got back to me to tell me what the problem was but they reckon it might have been the relay cause in it
ESP module will have DC motor in it, If top mosfet failes and shorts. Motor could run indefinetly.
Inside your car.. If you can turn off traction control-- it might disable the ABS module (maybe). Worth a try. You should definitely have a fuse and relay that operates the ABS--- It will most likely be under the hood, but it's possible that it's under the dash.
It's under the bonnet.
@@Okurka.Bonnet? It is called the HOOD! 🇺🇸USA🇺🇸 USA🇺🇸 USA🇺🇸
@@RoderikvanReekum It's ENGLISH.
The "Cash Cow" is finally asking for cash...
Just pull the ABS fuse to start. You're brakes will still work, you just wont have ABS. Then you can get it to a shop whenever. I had to do this on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe when the wheel hub sensor died at around 450K miles (724K Kms). I've been too lazy to replace it, so I just have to drive it like I learned 40 odd years ago...pump the brakes in that white stuff we call snow. Yea..sorry, your "2010" is such a new car...with low mileage. LOL.
That's a keeper car, when it has done 180K without issues 💪🙂
Your problem was buying a Nissan! I have a 2006 Rav4 that's done 450,000 without anything other than a clutch the kids cooked learning to drive burning out. ABS still works :)
Nissan does reliable cars ... actually most Japanese cars are very reliable.
Rav4 might be more reliable but also more expensive. I wanted a plugin hybrid and Toyota only had 2 models and the RAV4 was one of them starting at €50.000 ...
I have had Toyota for over 30 years but at those prices ...
Stuck relay
find the ABS fuse and yank it
Probably a faulty relay.
Needs a big hammer, may not fix it but it will be enjoyable!
Honestly, it would probably fix it temporarily.. if it's an internal relay that is stuck.
Time to convert it to Mr Fusion and make it fly, eh? Ha.
Mr Fusion only powers the time circuits and the flux capacitor.
@@EEVblog2 right. I wonder what powered the flying drive though. Rocket fuel? There's no tanks for it and the oxydizer on the DeLorean though, and they would take up considerable space.
Call RAA use my membership number 😉
Pull the fuse.
No ABS fuse
@@EEVblog2 There's a 30A and a 40A ABS fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.
@@Okurka. I believe it's 30A and 50A ... Fuses "H and I" .. Most likely bigger than the normal style fuses
@@calholli 50A is the ESP fuse.
Dave probably doesn't know there's a fuse box under the air duct.
@@Okurka. Yeah.. I figured he would probably just take it to a shop. That's why I didn't bother to look up the schematics-- I was just going off of memory. ;)
Looks easily accessible. It's probably an hour job for a mechanic to replace.
That's the plan.
The replacement part is $1000.
@@EEVblog2 You can usually just replace the actual module on these and not deal with all the mechanical side... with all the brake lines and re-bleeding the brakes, etc.. Also, in many cars the new module will have to be programmed. Might be a pretty pricy job either way... On my 2010 Dodge Nitro-- I just simply unhooked the ABS and never thought about it again. lol. We don't have inspections here in Oklahoma (USA), so I'm in no hurry to repair something that's not necessarily needed... I'd hate to see you pay to fix that and then your car needs a new transmission in a few months anyway. There's a point of diminishing returns on repairing cars. Choose wisely. :)