I have two of the P2001's and one of the biggest complaints was that it charged too quickly (ate too much power) from the AC input. Basically takes a whole circuit. So its nice to see a switch to reduce it in the P5000. I've had my P2001s a few years and over that time they have continued to work, but there are a number of quirks. For one thing, on both of my P2001'sl, Oukitel swapped the HOT and the NEUTRAL between the AC input and the AC outputs. Yes, you heard me correctly. A second quirk is that the automatic fan ramp sometimes did not start the fan quickly enough and the unit overheated under low-to-medium constant loads. And finally, just recently, one of the units appears to have lost its understanding of the state of charge and minutes remaining (but otherwise works). It says "188%" and "01 min". Clearly the unit lost communication with the BMS but even digging into the internals I haven't been able to coax it to work again. Even several full discharge/charge cycles doesn't do it. The unit still works, just without the SOC display, and the BMS still clearly works because the low-voltage shutdown and the charge-stop still works. But I'd like my SOC display back 🙂 Other nominal things about the Oukitel's... they are known for having fairly beefy AC outputs, which is great. But they are also not known for having efficient inputs OR outputs. I highly doubt you are getting 90% efficiency. Maybe relative to the advertised capacity, but not input-to-output. Still, most power stations are like that so it isn't that big of a complaint. I agree with you on the constant power output. It really is a mis-feature. Something that EcoFlow (I think) introduced originally and the other power station makers started to mimic. But its a bad idea. It puts stress on the target equipment that might not be apparent until they give up the ghost with a shortened life span. -- Finally, all power stations (all brands) suffer from the single point of failure problem. If something goes south you are left with an increasingly expensive door-stop. And for that reason I don't recommend people getting power stations larger than around 2000Wh / 2000W or so. Once you go north of that you really want to start thinking about discrete components so the repair costs when things inevitably break aren't stratospheric. Plus that allows you to match component beefiness to your needs. A discrete 2560Wh LiFepO4 battery is around $600 these days. Two of those ($1200) plus a 48V 2500W inverter ($300) plus a Victron 100/20 charge controller ($100) plus a 48V (51.2V) LiFePO4 AC charger ($50 to $200 depending) = $1800 with the ability to expand any of the components. The Oukitel clocks in at $2400 to $3000. The EcoFlow is even more expensive at those capacities. Bluetti, etc... they all have the same problem. If something breaks out of warranty, then what? If the Oukitel's AC output breaks, what do you do? If a discrete inverter breaks on the other-hand, worst-case you just buy a new one for $300. That's the problem with all large power stations in a nutshell. -Matt
I normally don't care about spread sheets. But, now that I'm trying to figure out all these power stations, I didn't realize how important spread sheets could be!! They are a necessity!! I appreciate the work you go through to provide all that information!! Thank you, David!
Hi David, That power station is a perfect, no frills, high capacity unit. It is nice that they do include a button so you can reduce the charge rate to extend the life of the batteries. You should be able to hook up your 800 watt array, in series, no problem, with this station staying well below the 120 volt limit. Yes, please don't hurt yourself by lifting that monster, let Scotty beam it up. I hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving. It's been a rough week with the Burrow injury, but I am so blessed and have so much to be thankful for. A new Beatles song, my health, my family and THE game at noon on Saturday. I also want to give thanks to you David for this channel and for educating us all. I know it takes a lot of work and effort doing the videos and you make it look so easy with the snap of your fingers. Grogu is even amazed that you have mastered time travel and teleportation. Now, if we can only beat that team up north. Thank you once again, Steve.
Thanks for the kind words, Steve! And yeah that wrist/thumb injury that Burrow has is really unfortunate....not something you shake off and power through after a couple days of rest. :-/ Gonna be an interesting test for the BUQ....
The usable capacity # may not be accurate. The missibg power is probably the inverter power. The efficieny will look very good if you drain it fast but a slow drain over days where the inverter has to run over days could be a very different picture. Say if the inverter used 30 w/h but you are running a wifi at 15 watts it will last days but its efficiency will be about 25%
Another awesome review video and a really impressive unit. I wish some of these companies would offer financing. Just hard for most of us to come up with that kind if money. Especially these days. Thanks..... Jeff
It’s been cheaper on wellbots for only $1999 a few times, plus 110 is a deal breaker tv are very sensitive I have a new 2023 lg that lags with anything under 115v , my home is 124v most of the time.
16:18 I accept that 110V is fine for most purposes. But why do so many power stations output 110 instead of 120V? Why not give the customer 120V pure sine wave? Is this more expensive or more difficult to achieve vs. 110V pure sine wave? Thank you.
A few too many corners cut here: 110V, 2200W inverter, no mobile app, and you have to buy an additional adapter for the 24V DC port. It seems you took a pass on some usual tests, such as unassisted powerup for solar charging, the DC portable fridge test, and AC and DC idle consumption draw. Was this for the sake of shortening the video?
for a battery this big, i could run this battery with my desktop computer only at 60 to 100 watts or so, if the electricity is down for long periods of time, this will keep my activity going for at least a day and a half, any question about the solar generator for this particular product? if there was, then i prolly wasn't paying any attention, i was just focused on the power station itself!
Thanks for this video. All of these new high-capacity power stations and their super low prices are making me consider swapping out my backup gas generator. Hmm. I wonder if I can add another 30 amp inlet connector leading to the transfer switch inside my house or if I would need to remove the outside inlet?
You can run a manual transfer switch and a generator interlock connected to a generator inlet at the same time. For this 120V unit you would be limited to 6 120V circuits on a manual transfer switch. You would need a Reliance ProTran2 301a and a TT to L5-30R adapter cable with this unit.
Ha! I'm of the mindset that it's same power station since it was (presumably) disassembled and then reassembled from the same particles...but it may have lost its soul during the process. LOL
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Agree but if you look at most units in that weight and capacity with a 30A outlet, it’s undersized. I have a 30A RV and this would fail if I had AC on and the microwave was used. A lot of people would see that outlet and assume it could handle that load. It’s no better than a regular 20A outlet.
Good morning. Thanks for this great review. I've purchased the vtoman jump 1000 generator after watching one of your previous videos. I wish I had paid closer attention to the fact that it can only take 200w of solar. It's a great power supply but I'd like to run my entire rv for a good while, and the vtoman does good, but doesn't fill all my needs. I'm wondering (debating) on whether I should get an inverter/charge controller and accessories or should I get an all-in-one system that I just plug in the 30a plug into for 24/7 use. Also, the prices have come down on most everything lately. From history, do you think that prices will come down even more AFTER Christmas? I guess it's hard to know, really, but historically, is purchasing AFTER Christmas a better choice?
That's a tough call on the price question. I doubt there will be a lot of difference after the holidays....and it's entirely possible that the best (lowest) prices are right now, given the offsetting inflationary pressures that will continue for some time as the demand for Lithium continues to increase going forward. Hard to predict, but I do think that we're unlikely to see the continued price drops to the degree that we've seen them over the past couple of years.
I had bought a jump 1800 and returned it due to having an issue. Glad I did as 200 watt ac charging is terrible. 8 to 9 hours to charge shouldn't even be a thing. Went with a flash speed and it's much better.
Generally speaking, people putting systems together for RVs should be looking at a discrete solution and not a power station solution. But only if you are comfortable with batteries, inverters, cabling, and other electronics. For example, 48V LiFePO4 batteries (50Ah or 100Ah increments depending. 50Ah is easier to man-handle), Victron 100/20 charge controllers, one or more 48V inverters, Mini (Din-rail mount) DC breakers, 250A bus bar, fuse for the main battery plus a DC breaker (depending on the battery), etc. Basically just mounted on plywood and then inside an RV bay as appropriate. Wiring is typically 2 AWG if you are under 100A for everything, 10 AWG for the charge controller wiring, and 6, 8, or 10 AWG for the inverter wiring as appropriate for the size of the inverter. Made possible by using a 48V battery architecture instead of 12V. (Be sure to use properly sized DC breakers to protect the battery and inverter wiring). The huge advantage to this is that diagnosing and repairing breakage is trivial, and expanding the system piecemeal is trivial (leave room in the bay for expansion). i.e. if you need to add another battery, or another charge controller or two, or additional inverters to separate the inductive loads like A/C from nominal AC outlets. Two other issues with RVs are (a) Shore charging for the batteries, and (b) Charging the batteries from the alternator, which requires some finesse to ensure that you don't burn out the alternator. This can add expense but it is also something you generally need to add even if you have a power station. -- If you AREN'T comfortable wiring up stuff like that, then a power station does provide a poor-man's way into putting together an electrical system for the RV, and it includes lots of safety features... but it can also wind up being expensive to repair. Generally speaking a power station cannot take "shore power" connections beyond the 120VAC AC input, or alternator connections without eating up your solar input. It can be dangerous either way because one dirty shore power connection can end your power station. And for alternator charging, care must be taken to not burn out the alternator. The alternator has to be fed through a DC-to-DC converter designed for alternator inputs, capable of limiting the amps to something that won't burn the alternator out, which can be expensive. My 2 cents.
@junkerzn7312 , wow, that was a LOT of information packed into one message. I think I need to print that one out! Everything you just said is what I've been seeing on the best videos out there. I feel that I've graduated UA-cam University with a ton of head knowledge but I have no experience. I'm a 57 yr young disabled woman learning how to do all these things myself but I don't have the confidence to try and do the electrical myself. I'm trying to find someone to help me trace an electrical issue before I continue the complete renovation of my motorhome. That's why I was leaning towards a power station. Because I've started to get overwhelmed by the options and prices. Thanks for the reminder of the list of components needed for a good system. I do wish I had someone locally who could help me do it, then I may have the ability to set that up . But, it's really too expensive to get a professional to do it. I appreciate your insight, thanks!
@@GratefulWarriorMom It does sound like using a power station is the easiest solution for you. It just comes down to figuring out how to connect up more solar. Generally speaking, you can throw a charge controller + battery solution in front of the power station, allowing you to buffer all the solar through an external battery which then essentially trickle-charges the power station. The problem with doing that, however, is that it isn't cheap. For the amount of solar you want to add, you would need a 24V 50Ah LiFePO4 buffer battery which is $230 by itself. Decent charge controllers are $70-$100. Then a few auto fuse holders with wires attached ($10), and an auto blade fuse assortment ($10), wire cutters ($10), 10 awg or 12 awg primary hookup wire ($15 + $15), probably a connector for plugging into the Vtoman ($10), and probably some wire splicing connectors (like an assortment of WAGO 221's... $37). That combo, is primarily limited by the battery (25.6V * 50A = 1280W of solar), and it will trickle-charge any power station able to take 24-30V on its solar input at (typically) between 8A and 15A (the power station's maximum rate, as long as it is below 20A if using 12 AWG wiring, or 30A if using 10 AWG). It all adds up. We are probably talking $400 worth of stuff, and more if you want more capacity. There are advantages... piecemeal expandability. But the disadvantage is that you need to know your way around power systems and wiring to ensure there is no fire risk. I think the easier solution for you might be to just buy another power station. There is no reason why you couldn't have two! Have some of the solar going to the Vtoman, and the rest of the solar going to the other power station. If you have a friend who knows his or her way around electronics, though, the buffer battery / charge controller solution is viable. -Matt
It's okay nothing special but not bad either 110 kind of a bummer, no expansion and solar input so so. Nice battery capacity however would be difficult to charge from solar but not impossible. Very nice price point with the sale. App is not a con to me wouldn't use it if it had one got enough data miners in my life already. I think it would get the job done for most people.
I have two of the P2001's and one of the biggest complaints was that it charged too quickly (ate too much power) from the AC input. Basically takes a whole circuit. So its nice to see a switch to reduce it in the P5000. I've had my P2001s a few years and over that time they have continued to work, but there are a number of quirks.
For one thing, on both of my P2001'sl, Oukitel swapped the HOT and the NEUTRAL between the AC input and the AC outputs. Yes, you heard me correctly. A second quirk is that the automatic fan ramp sometimes did not start the fan quickly enough and the unit overheated under low-to-medium constant loads.
And finally, just recently, one of the units appears to have lost its understanding of the state of charge and minutes remaining (but otherwise works). It says "188%" and "01 min". Clearly the unit lost communication with the BMS but even digging into the internals I haven't been able to coax it to work again. Even several full discharge/charge cycles doesn't do it. The unit still works, just without the SOC display, and the BMS still clearly works because the low-voltage shutdown and the charge-stop still works. But I'd like my SOC display back 🙂
Other nominal things about the Oukitel's... they are known for having fairly beefy AC outputs, which is great. But they are also not known for having efficient inputs OR outputs. I highly doubt you are getting 90% efficiency. Maybe relative to the advertised capacity, but not input-to-output. Still, most power stations are like that so it isn't that big of a complaint.
I agree with you on the constant power output. It really is a mis-feature. Something that EcoFlow (I think) introduced originally and the other power station makers started to mimic. But its a bad idea. It puts stress on the target equipment that might not be apparent until they give up the ghost with a shortened life span.
--
Finally, all power stations (all brands) suffer from the single point of failure problem. If something goes south you are left with an increasingly expensive door-stop. And for that reason I don't recommend people getting power stations larger than around 2000Wh / 2000W or so.
Once you go north of that you really want to start thinking about discrete components so the repair costs when things inevitably break aren't stratospheric. Plus that allows you to match component beefiness to your needs. A discrete 2560Wh LiFepO4 battery is around $600 these days. Two of those ($1200) plus a 48V 2500W inverter ($300) plus a Victron 100/20 charge controller ($100) plus a 48V (51.2V) LiFePO4 AC charger ($50 to $200 depending) = $1800 with the ability to expand any of the components.
The Oukitel clocks in at $2400 to $3000. The EcoFlow is even more expensive at those capacities. Bluetti, etc... they all have the same problem. If something breaks out of warranty, then what? If the Oukitel's AC output breaks, what do you do?
If a discrete inverter breaks on the other-hand, worst-case you just buy a new one for $300. That's the problem with all large power stations in a nutshell.
-Matt
I normally don't care about spread sheets. But, now that I'm trying to figure out all these power stations, I didn't realize how important spread sheets could be!! They are a necessity!! I appreciate the work you go through to provide all that information!! Thank you, David!
I do like the slow charging/fast charging switch for those of us that don't want to fool with the app. I wish other producers did the same.
Hi David,
That power station is a perfect, no frills, high capacity unit. It is nice that they do include a button so you can reduce the charge rate to extend the life of the batteries. You should be able to hook up your 800 watt array, in series, no problem, with this station staying well below the 120 volt limit. Yes, please don't hurt yourself by lifting that monster, let Scotty beam it up.
I hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving. It's been a rough week with the Burrow injury, but I am so blessed and have so much to be thankful for. A new Beatles song, my health, my family and THE game at noon on Saturday. I also want to give thanks to you David for this channel and for educating us all. I know it takes a lot of work and effort doing the videos and you make it look so easy with the snap of your fingers. Grogu is even amazed that you have mastered time travel and teleportation. Now, if we can only beat that team up north.
Thank you once again,
Steve.
Thanks for the kind words, Steve! And yeah that wrist/thumb injury that Burrow has is really unfortunate....not something you shake off and power through after a couple days of rest. :-/ Gonna be an interesting test for the BUQ....
The usable capacity # may not be accurate. The missibg power is probably the inverter power. The efficieny will look very good if you drain it fast but a slow drain over days where the inverter has to run over days could be a very different picture. Say if the inverter used 30 w/h but you are running a wifi at 15 watts it will last days but its efficiency will be about 25%
Another awesome review video and a really impressive unit. I wish some of these companies would offer financing. Just hard for most of us to come up with that kind if money. Especially these days. Thanks..... Jeff
simple unit doesn't meet all expectations but for most should be an affordable choice ...nice!
Great explanation about 110 vs 120V.
It’s been cheaper on wellbots for only $1999 a few times, plus 110 is a deal breaker tv are very sensitive I have a new 2023 lg that lags with anything under 115v , my home is 124v most of the time.
16:18 I accept that 110V is fine for most purposes. But why do so many power stations output 110 instead of 120V? Why not give the customer 120V pure sine wave? Is this more expensive or more difficult to achieve vs. 110V pure sine wave? Thank you.
So many of these reviews show only 110 volt . I bought mine 1 month ago and it delivers a solid 120.
A few too many corners cut here: 110V, 2200W inverter, no mobile app, and you have to buy an additional adapter for the 24V DC port. It seems you took a pass on some usual tests, such as unassisted powerup for solar charging, the DC portable fridge test, and AC and DC idle consumption draw. Was this for the sake of shortening the video?
for a battery this big, i could run this battery with my desktop computer only at 60 to 100 watts or so, if the electricity is down for long periods of time, this will keep my activity going for at least a day and a half, any question about the solar generator for this particular product? if there was, then i prolly wasn't paying any attention, i was just focused on the power station itself!
Pecron 2000flp 899 I bought 2 of them
thank u for advice 👍👍👍👍
Any ideas on the 2400 p2001 plus OUKITEL how good is it
Thanks for this video. All of these new high-capacity power stations and their super low prices are making me consider swapping out my backup gas generator. Hmm. I wonder if I can add another 30 amp inlet connector leading to the transfer switch inside my house or if I would need to remove the outside inlet?
You can run a manual transfer switch and a generator interlock connected to a generator inlet at the same time.
For this 120V unit you would be limited to 6 120V circuits on a manual transfer switch. You would need a Reliance ProTran2 301a and a TT to L5-30R adapter cable with this unit.
Much appreciated. Thank you.@@lakorai2
Now we have to get into a debate on whether that's the same powerstation since you transported it and it's molecules were broken down and rebuilt.
Ha! I'm of the mindset that it's same power station since it was (presumably) disassembled and then reassembled from the same particles...but it may have lost its soul during the process. LOL
Does it have app monitoring possibility.?
At that weight and size, 2200w AC output is a big miss.
Perhaps for some. Really depends on how you plan to use it.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Agree but if you look at most units in that weight and capacity with a 30A outlet, it’s undersized. I have a 30A RV and this would fail if I had AC on and the microwave was used. A lot of people would see that outlet and assume it could handle that load. It’s no better than a regular 20A outlet.
They're supposed to be making a Pro version that outputs around double that.
Good morning. Thanks for this great review. I've purchased the vtoman jump 1000 generator after watching one of your previous videos. I wish I had paid closer attention to the fact that it can only take 200w of solar. It's a great power supply but I'd like to run my entire rv for a good while, and the vtoman does good, but doesn't fill all my needs.
I'm wondering (debating) on whether I should get an inverter/charge controller and accessories or should I get an all-in-one system that I just plug in the 30a plug into for 24/7 use.
Also, the prices have come down on most everything lately. From history, do you think that prices will come down even more AFTER Christmas? I guess it's hard to know, really, but historically, is purchasing AFTER Christmas a better choice?
That's a tough call on the price question. I doubt there will be a lot of difference after the holidays....and it's entirely possible that the best (lowest) prices are right now, given the offsetting inflationary pressures that will continue for some time as the demand for Lithium continues to increase going forward. Hard to predict, but I do think that we're unlikely to see the continued price drops to the degree that we've seen them over the past couple of years.
I had bought a jump 1800 and returned it due to having an issue. Glad I did as 200 watt ac charging is terrible. 8 to 9 hours to charge shouldn't even be a thing. Went with a flash speed and it's much better.
Generally speaking, people putting systems together for RVs should be looking at a discrete solution and not a power station solution. But only if you are comfortable with batteries, inverters, cabling, and other electronics.
For example, 48V LiFePO4 batteries (50Ah or 100Ah increments depending. 50Ah is easier to man-handle), Victron 100/20 charge controllers, one or more 48V inverters, Mini (Din-rail mount) DC breakers, 250A bus bar, fuse for the main battery plus a DC breaker (depending on the battery), etc. Basically just mounted on plywood and then inside an RV bay as appropriate.
Wiring is typically 2 AWG if you are under 100A for everything, 10 AWG for the charge controller wiring, and 6, 8, or 10 AWG for the inverter wiring as appropriate for the size of the inverter. Made possible by using a 48V battery architecture instead of 12V. (Be sure to use properly sized DC breakers to protect the battery and inverter wiring).
The huge advantage to this is that diagnosing and repairing breakage is trivial, and expanding the system piecemeal is trivial (leave room in the bay for expansion). i.e. if you need to add another battery, or another charge controller or two, or additional inverters to separate the inductive loads like A/C from nominal AC outlets.
Two other issues with RVs are (a) Shore charging for the batteries, and (b) Charging the batteries from the alternator, which requires some finesse to ensure that you don't burn out the alternator. This can add expense but it is also something you generally need to add even if you have a power station.
--
If you AREN'T comfortable wiring up stuff like that, then a power station does provide a poor-man's way into putting together an electrical system for the RV, and it includes lots of safety features... but it can also wind up being expensive to repair.
Generally speaking a power station cannot take "shore power" connections beyond the 120VAC AC input, or alternator connections without eating up your solar input. It can be dangerous either way because one dirty shore power connection can end your power station. And for alternator charging, care must be taken to not burn out the alternator. The alternator has to be fed through a DC-to-DC converter designed for alternator inputs, capable of limiting the amps to something that won't burn the alternator out, which can be expensive.
My 2 cents.
@junkerzn7312 , wow, that was a LOT of information packed into one message. I think I need to print that one out! Everything you just said is what I've been seeing on the best videos out there. I feel that I've graduated UA-cam University with a ton of head knowledge but I have no experience. I'm a 57 yr young disabled woman learning how to do all these things myself but I don't have the confidence to try and do the electrical myself. I'm trying to find someone to help me trace an electrical issue before I continue the complete renovation of my motorhome. That's why I was leaning towards a power station. Because I've started to get overwhelmed by the options and prices.
Thanks for the reminder of the list of components needed for a good system. I do wish I had someone locally who could help me do it, then I may have the ability to set that up . But, it's really too expensive to get a professional to do it.
I appreciate your insight, thanks!
@@GratefulWarriorMom It does sound like using a power station is the easiest solution for you. It just comes down to figuring out how to connect up more solar.
Generally speaking, you can throw a charge controller + battery solution in front of the power station, allowing you to buffer all the solar through an external battery which then essentially trickle-charges the power station.
The problem with doing that, however, is that it isn't cheap. For the amount of solar you want to add, you would need a 24V 50Ah LiFePO4 buffer battery which is $230 by itself. Decent charge controllers are $70-$100. Then a few auto fuse holders with wires attached ($10), and an auto blade fuse assortment ($10), wire cutters ($10), 10 awg or 12 awg primary hookup wire ($15 + $15), probably a connector for plugging into the Vtoman ($10), and probably some wire splicing connectors (like an assortment of WAGO 221's... $37).
That combo, is primarily limited by the battery (25.6V * 50A = 1280W of solar), and it will trickle-charge any power station able to take 24-30V on its solar input at (typically) between 8A and 15A (the power station's maximum rate, as long as it is below 20A if using 12 AWG wiring, or 30A if using 10 AWG).
It all adds up. We are probably talking $400 worth of stuff, and more if you want more capacity. There are advantages... piecemeal expandability. But the disadvantage is that you need to know your way around power systems and wiring to ensure there is no fire risk.
I think the easier solution for you might be to just buy another power station. There is no reason why you couldn't have two! Have some of the solar going to the Vtoman, and the rest of the solar going to the other power station.
If you have a friend who knows his or her way around electronics, though, the buffer battery / charge controller solution is viable.
-Matt
It's okay nothing special but not bad either 110 kind of a bummer, no expansion and solar input so so. Nice battery capacity however would be difficult to charge from solar but not impossible. Very nice price point with the sale. App is not a con to me wouldn't use it if it had one got enough data miners in my life already. I think it would get the job done for most people.
Prices look valid only if you have Amazon Prime.
$1751 on wellbots. Even a sweeter deal.
....if you have to explain it...😂
I'll take 120v AC
Hi David, I want to invite you to review our products. Could you please tell me the best way to contact you? Thank you so much.