We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
After watching one of your videos, I realized that I was very lucky. As you give the material, I can't tear myself away from the screen. You are a master with a capital letter. May God bless you and your loved ones. Sincerely, Nikolai.
I am about to build a green oak canopy, and do not own a planer/thicknesser so renovating some old hand planes to do it the "manual" way... these "basics" for someone like me who isn't trained in woodworking are so helpful.. thanks for sharing!
Thanks, I'm glad you saw me here. I've been making planing videos for a long time. I off er free tea and biscuits over by the door. I also give away free tools to north America people, cause Rob cosman charges an arm and a leg for his rubbish tools.
How is this only 1 hour old?! Lol I just searched for “eliminate planing tracks” in hopes of a Rob Cosman video and there it was... freshly made just for me :)
Rob this is the best explanation I have seen for just the basics. Everyone needs to know these simple yet very important aspects. Body mechanics & techniques = less fatigue & more enjoyment woodworking. Thank you!
Great tips, one thing that helped me a bunch that drove me crazy for a while is making sure that the surface you have your workpiece on is flat to start with. Especially for thinner stock, it can flex to the shape of the bench under the pressure of the plane and then rebound when you take it off and however much you plane it never gets flat.
You are a good teacher Rob. And love your work with vetrans. As I am an Australian vetren as is my son. And curently puting to gether a leson plan with the view of coaching vetrans battling mental health issues. Have noted your clamp rack looks interesting it would good if you could give us a better look at it?
New to woodworking. Thank you for your content Rob. Your style if teaching is patient its as if you are right here with me. Thank you for the excellent detail. You are the real deal.
This was the video I have been on the lookout for. Best instructional for what I need. Not surprised; your videos are all good, made by a master. Thanks!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I think my issues with number 1 is also part of the cause for a number of the other problems. Using my arms too much causes me to have uneven pressure and planing direction as I plane which leads to some of the other problems. I'm going to focus on improving my technique now that I've watched this video. The tracking on the bench kit I ordered shows it made it to Southeast Wisconsin last night, so I should get it soon. That will be a huge help because I currently have to play around with strange clamping arrangements to hold the workpiece. I'm looking forward to finishing the bench so I can get to work! Thanks for doing these videos. I always learn something.
Thank you for this video. You explanations are very articulate and make so much sense. Right now, I am hand milling rough cut timber and could use any tips on how to approach this type of planing. Thank you in advance.
This is a great video Rob! I’ve been studying all your hand plane videos and have picked up a lot of great information! Out of curiosity, how do you handle really long boards like shelves that exceed what you can reach with your stance? Let’s say between 4 and 8 feet long?
Beautiful. Excellent control of the plane and by the look of the shavings the plane is really nicely set up and has a truly sharp cutting iron. Very helpful lessons and demonstrations.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I did longer reviews of recent videos, but you are packing in so many new ones I can't keep up! What a library and legacy you are leaving for everyone. Next video - I'm really struggling to find gaps. Oil and / or wax finishes compared to varnishes for different woods? You need top notch surface prep before you can apply them, of course. Most important lesson from you, that I now give to anyone who will listen - sharpen to 16,000 and do it frequently.
I watch these all the time. I love this f**kin' guy. I have 4 Woodriver planes, just because Rob was instrumental in their design. That is the sole reason that Woodriver planes are the best for the money. Hey, I just bought one of your fret saws. That handle better be wrapped as good as I do it...LOL...Thanks my friend...Great video.
This was the missing link Rob. Your sharpening technique has revolutionised my woodwork but I struggled with planing as precise as you demonstrate . Since this video it’s such a difference. Love these video bites brilliant. Followed you for years learnt so much from you. Thank you for your teachings
Hi Rob, thank you for all of your instruction! Question for you: I’m 6’4” and want to build the beginner bench you have talked about. When I buy the plans, do you discuss bench height for different sized people? (It struck me when you were talking about proper mechanics that bench height may play a role for a taller/shorter person). Any suggestions on proper bench height for someone my size to maintain good mechanics? Thanks again!
Hello. This has been a completely fantastic video for me ,I've learned so much, but I'm a compleat Newby with a hand plane, so I was wondering what the wax stick is that Rob keeps putting on his plane. I get that it's anti friction, but don't know what to search for on the internet. Any help would be gratefully received. Thanks.
Great video. Clear instruction. For myself however I've simplified this into less steps. 1- joint board on jointer 2- plane on planer with helical cutter using scraps in front and behind. Or ideally along the whole length plus 4 inches. 3- move to the next tool Have a good day!
Rob the new intro and theme are very fresh and up to date. This post drawer fitting series is excellent. The basics, step by step which builds a good reference, since you tube is now our reference library for everything. I can't tell you the number of times I've watched one of your videos, seen a great tip and then months later, while in the shop think to my self, "I know I saw Rob deal with this issue but I can't remember which video it was. Is there a way to get a positive non public message to Rob?
Thanks for the kind words and you detected exactly what COL Luther is trying to do. Just send us an email via the contact us on the webpage at robcosman.com and it Will come to me
I like hand planing (not good at it, don't do it much, but like it). However, is there a place for hand planing in a production shop (with a 24" planer and large sudo-industrial sanders, yet where random orbital hand sanders are also used)? I would welcome any thoughts-for or against.
One day I will achieve those beautiful shavings that's coming out of your planes! I can't afford a top quality plane just yet! So I'm contend to keep improving my planening skills in the meantime! Thanks for the awesome tips.
Hello, thank you so much for your great videos! I just bought a wood river 5 1/2 due to your recommendations and demonstrations. When dimensioning a board I end up producing a convex shape on every side and I wonder if I am doing something wrong? You showed here how to fix that, what I did, but how can I prevent that in the first place? Thank you for your help
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks so much, this is probably the most valuable video I've ever seenn on woodworking, ever. I thank you so much, this has GREATLY improved my handplaning, getting boards as close to flat as I ever could.
Rob can I ask you for an advice. can I use a bevel up 45 iron on a wood river 62 plane(that I bought on your review of it). It does say on the box that it could be used for stock removal. Can you suggest one such iron please?
Love going through and re watching videos to see if I ever missed any tips! Random question. In the first tip, when showing how to stand.. I noticed you have a couple planes stored on the support beams under the bench.. would the planes, over long periods of time storing it like that sag and become out of flat with the weight of the frog in the middle ? I’ve always wondered how to store them, also when people set there plane on a small wood block so the blade doesn’t dig into the bench I always think that over time it’ll start to sag but I over think things so I need your opinion!
When the board is 8ft long (doing doors) do you walk forwards? Or do you plane, move position, plane, reposition? On end grain, “screeech”, but not every time, and sometimes, even with a freshly sharpened blade. Only happens with my Record No5 plane. Any thoughts?
I walk it when it is possible and plane and reposition when not. Woodriver 5 1/2! Mass will make a difference, thicker blade, heavier cast. And/or try some wax on the side and the sole. The screech is high pitched vibration so the heavier and more solid plane will make a difference.
beginners should learn to use the cap iron as soon as they learn to plane. 8:00, the comment about massive tear due to starting too deep, with the cap iron set, it's physically impossible for the plane to tear significantly and too heavy of a cut just makes it impossible to push the plane.
Thanks for this and your other excellent videos Rob. what is the white stick that you rubbed on the plane base ? I use candle wax on saws but never though of lubricating the plane base
I actually hav a problem as when i added the woodriver no5 1/2 into the cart and putting my shipping address, they wrote we dont ship it to this address. Very sorry, is there a way to rectify this.
Rob! Thanks a lot dude, 🤨 Every freaking time I think I’m becoming a decent woodworker, I watch one of your videos and realize how bad I really suck! 😤 Sorry, just clowning! 🤡 Seriously though Rob, you have a way of making a hand plane sing! I feel so inspired! Thanks! Oh, and one more thing… from a former U.S. Navy Corpsman (HM2/‘81-‘89), thank you for your service sir. 🫡
Hello Rob, I’d say I’m new to wood working since I haven’t messed with it much since highschool +/- 25 years ago. I like your videos and find them very helpful. I’ve recently been looking at Woodriver planes on woodcraft.com. What size plane would be the best one to start with for small scale hobby/entry level wood working? Does woodcraft offer the plane prep service that you do?
Having now watched many of Bob’s videos which are very good, it’s clear that Bob has a wood shavings fetish. He never picks up a plane without making a pass or two and then going all touchy feely playing with the shavings. Clearly he is in his element.
I didnt think anyone could actually verbalize all the thought process involved with the hand planing a board! But you did! But now I have to interpolate your demo with MY hand plane! My depth wheel just spins about 2-3 time before it engages the blade. You didnt explain that the tipping bar is opposite(left tip makes more cut on R). Also, it would be much clearer how overlap works, if you could shine a light sideways across the board to show the nice flat surface! I devour your videos!
Good suggestions, thanks. So you are talking about “slop” in the adjusting wheel. My guess is you are using and older Stanley or Record which are notorious for slop. Todays quality planes are manufactured to higher standards and slop is not an issue. The slop only occurs when you reverse directions on the wheel. Its an issue thar you cant fix, just have to deal with. I dint use older planes so i don’t have to deal with slop so I forget to mention it
Rob, when do you recommend hand planing your project parts in the workflow if you're using power tools (tablesaw, jointer, and thickness planer) to dimension boards? Would you dress up the parts with a smoother as soon as they're cut to rough dimension and risk dinging the parts up during the rest of the build? Would you wait until joinery is cut and risk screwing up the fitment of your joinery? Or would you leave parts rough until after glue up and then try to plane once assembled, even though it's much harder to plane assembled parts?
My preference is to cut all material to rough size. As I am going to need it I mill it to final dimension then perfect it with my hand plane to exactly what I want, then I assemble the section I am working on. SO basically to your question, plane before assembling, there are some exceptions, drawers being the notable one
@@RobCosmanWoodworking are drawers an exception because you're sneaking up on the fit after the drawer is assembled? How would you handle making a case using dados? Cut the dados a little narrow, then sneak up on the fit as you smooth the boards that will mate into the dados?
Thanks so much for all that you do and teach. As a disabled vet, I really appreciate what you do for veterans. Many years ago, I bought a couple WoodRiver planes primarily because of your recommendation. The one I use the most is the #6. I figure it's close enough to the 5 1/2 that it will work about the same. We're pretty much of a size, give or take 8". I'm currently working on a project and I decided to try and make this completely by hand including sawing. It's rough-cut walnut that is a generous 4/4. I chose this because I want the experience. I think I have made ever mistake you mentioned and I found a few more. (Don't pick a board that is cupped opposite ways on each end, twisted and bowed) The primary thing that I would like to ask is whether or not you have any plans to do a video on a board that is 4 or more feet long? It seems to me that a special skill is required for that. I would also love to hear your thoughts and see you prepare a rough 4/4 board while you take it down to 3/4. Again, thank you so much for being so generous in sharing your wisdom
Jatoba, too hard and ugly! Not worth the effort. Purple heart is nasty as well and it oxidises to an ugly brown. I did a video recently planing Cocobolo.
Hi Rob. Thanks for one more awesome video. Please, do you have any video where you specifically address workbench heights? I'm asking because it seems to me your bench it's a little bit higher than the "normal consensus" and I particularly like higher benches. Cheers from Perth Australia.
Hi, not really, I discuss it in a couple of my workbench videos. I am 5'8" and my Scandinavian bench is 36.5 inches high. we make our Cosman Workbenches 34.5 high. Traditionally the workbench was designed to make hand planing easy because that is what they did all day long. The traditionally measurement is the bench should be the height from the floor to the middle of your pinky finger. This gets the wood low so you can use more of your body when planing. However this is not a great height for sawing or chiseling which who want your workpiece a little higher. Since today folks rarely hand plane everything, I typically make my bench height between these two measurements for my body. For our class workbenches which have to work for a whole range of folks, we have found 34.5 inches is a good height for folks 6' and shorter. Taller than that and we have to add some extenders to the bench legs to get it up higher.
Thanks for this. I managed to make quite a deep "skin tag" on laminated cabinet top. A 30mm wide section of walnut in between two pieces of oak. I glued them up the wrong way so planing the oak is the wrong way to plain the walnut. Do you have any advice for removing this deep skin tag?
Hello Rob,..I'm a big fan of your videos and a customer too (I purchased a square set which I'm very happy with). Is there a single size and type of hand plane that you could recommend as a general all around use plane for someone such as myself that is relatively new to woodworking ? And is there a "general" all purpose sharpening stone set too? Thanks in advance from New Jersey!
Wood river 5 1/2” Jack Plane. And a trend 300/1000 diamond plate, with a Shapton 16000 ceramic stone. It’s quite the investment but I regret not doing that from the get go. It will serve you for a very long time and the sharpening results from that combination plus proper technique will make your work very enjoyable.
Watch my top 10 Hand plane video. I recommend a bedrock style 5-1/2. I think WoodRiver is the best value buy. For stones watch my 2020 hand plane sharpening video. I recommend a Trend 300/1000 diamond stone and a Shapton 16K ceramic stone
Y'all are always up late. I wish we could get this Covid thing figured out. I would love to come to one of your classes. I seen that there was an open spot for September, but I am not sure if the restrictions will still be on at that time. I hope all of the Veterans that were selected will be able to find a way to go. I've really enjoyed all of the videos that y'all have put out over the past few months. Which has made me really want to do the class in person. Also, the new format with the intros and Jake having you hit all of the ques for suggesting the other videos is great.
I tell folks that coming to one of our Training the Hand Workshops will jump start your hand tool skills by 3 to 5 years. Its literally two weeks of instruction packed into one week. 15 hours a day at the bench!!! We keep having to postpone this years classes but every Vet selected for a scholarship will get to attend, one way or the other...rest assured of that.
Rob - I’ve really come to love your videos and style of teaching 👌 at first I couldn’t get into your videos for some reason, but I’ve been determined to learn woodworking for the past year, and now I almost exclusively reference your videos alone, because you tend to cover 99% of every issue or question I’ve ever had. And not only do you explain it well, you show everything. Thank you very much for your time, and I can’t tell you how much of a better woodworker you’ve made me. You’ve inspired entire generations of people to become woodworkers. The reason I came to this video is because I seem to be having and issue where my boards keep ending up looking like I’m planing “downhill” - and what I mean by that is the far end of my board always ends up with too much taken off And you didn’t address that issue directly, but just by watching this video thru, and watching your technique, I think I know what I’m doing wrong 👍
Great video Rob, lots of good tips. I was wondering what kind or brand of wax do you use for the plane? I’ve seen you using it in many videos but I’ve not been able to see the tag on it properly. I know it’s probably a dumb question, but I’m just getting into hand planing and I see this is kind of a liquid wax, opposite to the regular paste wax used for other tools. Thanks for your advice!
Its the plane wax we sell on our website, robcosman.com. Look for it under hand planes. Its called magic plane wax. Its a special formula, a little more sticky than just regular wax. But either wax will work
Great tips. I'm ordering a shapton 16k grit this weekend! I've also been looking at a jointer no7 plane and I'm torn between an old record and a new plane. I have the wood river no 5, but the no7 is a lot more expensive in the UK than the US and Canada, what are your thoughts on old records? The difference in price between the record and the wr plane would allow me to get a good set of chisels.
If you go with an old record I HIGHLY recommend upgrading it with a new modern blade set. Problem is that by the time to do that, you have gone a long way toward paying for a modern #7
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks Rob, that's what I thought you might advise! Looks like I'll be saving up for the wood River then! At least it'll match my no 5 and I know the quality is good. I'll maybe see if the UK re-seller will give me a deal with some chisels to soften the blow!
Rob, on UA-cam, 11 Jan 2014, Bench heights and planning Technique" Paul Sellers. Using a Stanley plane without touching the plane but using a rope he edge and face planes with and against the grain of the wood. He pulls the rope that pulls the plane. A demonstration of a sharp set up plane. Rob, is this a trick or actually true? Seems like a good way to drop a plane on the floor. What do you think?
I have seen that demonstration, it is more an example to show that most of the force should be in the direction of travel and not to put too much downward pressure on the plane as the blade angle actually pulls the plane down into the wood. I found that after seeing that and a bit of time modifying the way I put weight on the plane, using a hand plane became far easier for me and the results improved a lot.
Always great to hear (and rehear) these tips~! Working on my techniques to get better. What wood do you recommend for practicing plank planing? Just something soft? In Augusta, GA, we're basically limited to whatever the "big box stores" carry.
I’m certain your Purple Heart Project includes people who are paraplegic and in wheelchairs. I very much would like to see how these paraplegics would do planing. Is it possible, @RobCosman, for you to demonstrate good hand planing technique while in a wheelchair using only muscles above the rib cage? I have a personal interest in this issue. Thanks very much.
Thanks a ton, Rob for sharing this priceless information. What kind of a saw would you recommend for me if I want to occasionally cut 19mm thick boards/plywood not more than 3-4 feet wide? Also do you have a video which shows how to cross cut or rip cut 3-4 ft wide/long with a hand saw?
Assuming you mean by hand, a panel saw id the way to go. Either a tuned up nice old one or get one from Lie Nielsen. COL Luther has sawing videos on the to do list.
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
I’ve watched many videos on hand planes and none of them covered the subjects you have. Thanks for imparting you knowledge!
Rob cosman is a liar and an Ego maniac monster.
I feel like my knowledge on the subject is 10x greater than before! Thanks
You’re welcome.
Good stuff! Just getting started with hand planes and it's neat to see some of the things I'm dealing with described, along with solutions.
After watching one of your videos, I realized that I was very lucky. As you give the material, I can't tear myself away from the screen. You are a master with a capital letter. May God bless you and your loved ones. Sincerely, Nikolai.
I am about to build a green oak canopy, and do not own a planer/thicknesser so renovating some old hand planes to do it the "manual" way... these "basics" for someone like me who isn't trained in woodworking are so helpful.. thanks for sharing!
The best video I've seen on planing. Thanks Rob!
So glad you liked it. I hope it helped. Thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks, I'm glad you saw me here.
I've been making planing videos for a long time.
I off er free tea and biscuits over by the door.
I also give away free tools to north America people, cause Rob cosman charges an arm and a leg for his rubbish tools.
How is this only 1 hour old?! Lol I just searched for “eliminate planing tracks” in hopes of a Rob Cosman video and there it was... freshly made just for me :)
I suspected you were going to search for that so I made this one just for you!!!!!! Amazing eh?
Rob this is the best explanation I have seen for just the basics. Everyone needs to know these simple yet very important aspects. Body mechanics & techniques = less fatigue & more enjoyment woodworking. Thank you!
Happy to share!
Really like the newer video format and intro! Thanks for your helpful tips!
Glad you like them! You get the first comment award !!!! Thanks for watching and commenting
I am starting with planing. This was a BIG help. Than you.
This is a real helpfull video. Thanks a lot Rob. (Greatings from Flanders (belgium))
COL Luther told me sll about Flanders. Would love to go there. Glad you liked the video. Thanks fir commenting
Great tips. Thank you for your time and passing on of knowledge.
Great tips, one thing that helped me a bunch that drove me crazy for a while is making sure that the surface you have your workpiece on is flat to start with. Especially for thinner stock, it can flex to the shape of the bench under the pressure of the plane and then rebound when you take it off and however much you plane it never gets flat.
Yup and that can be frustrating if you dont know whats going on!!!!
Same happened to me, god that was frustrating until I figured it out!
Some really really good tips there, some of which I wouldn’t even have considered before. Very useful video!
More great tips Rob! I just came in from my shop and was using my 5-1/2 to flatten some stock for a bread board. Now I will finish it in the morning.
Will sorry to interrupt your shop time but hopefully the video helped improve your planing.
Worth watching several times, best planing instruction.
Thank you for your time and creating this helpful video!
Thank you for beautiful tips!
You are a good teacher Rob. And love your work with vetrans. As I am an Australian vetren as is my son. And curently puting to gether a leson plan with the view of coaching vetrans battling mental health issues.
Have noted your clamp rack looks interesting it would good if you could give us a better look at it?
Excellent class. Very instructional and easy to follow. Thakyou
Excellent video Rob!
Thank you! These lessons are going to make a huge difference in my projects
New to woodworking. Thank you for your content Rob. Your style if teaching is patient its as if you are right here with me. Thank you for the excellent detail. You are the real deal.
This is great stuff, thank you very much.
This was the video I have been on the lookout for. Best instructional for what I need. Not surprised; your videos are all good, made by a master. Thanks!
Wrong.
2 months of wrong.
I'll let the Ego maniac ruin your life.
First timer, impressed, subscribed
Welcome Brian!
Another great video! I'm pretty proud of myself because I only suffer from the effects of four of the seven common mistakes!
Excellent. So focus on those. Which one gives you the most problems?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I think my issues with number 1 is also part of the cause for a number of the other problems. Using my arms too much causes me to have uneven pressure and planing direction as I plane which leads to some of the other problems. I'm going to focus on improving my technique now that I've watched this video. The tracking on the bench kit I ordered shows it made it to Southeast Wisconsin last night, so I should get it soon. That will be a huge help because I currently have to play around with strange clamping arrangements to hold the workpiece. I'm looking forward to finishing the bench so I can get to work! Thanks for doing these videos. I always learn something.
As always.....TOP DRAWER TEACHING.....Thanks Rob....
Thanks a to . See you on our next video
Thank you for this video. You explanations are very articulate and make so much sense. Right now, I am hand milling rough cut timber and could use any tips on how to approach this type of planing. Thank you in advance.
Okay, this one is for flattening boards. Have you done one on edge jointing?
Thanks! Great video :)
Most Excellent - thanks.
This is a great video Rob! I’ve been studying all your hand plane videos and have picked up a lot of great information! Out of curiosity, how do you handle really long boards like shelves that exceed what you can reach with your stance? Let’s say between 4 and 8 feet long?
Mantap om,, saya jadi ke ingat masa masa tukang jadul dllu pake alas sugu,,,
Beautiful. Excellent control of the plane and by the look of the shavings the plane is really nicely set up and has a truly sharp cutting iron. Very helpful lessons and demonstrations.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
As always-= common sense, technical info based on experience. Well done.
Brilliant, as usual - and this time dedicated to wide boards - thanks Rob!
Glad it helped. What video should we do next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I did longer reviews of recent videos, but you are packing in so many new ones I can't keep up! What a library and legacy you are leaving for everyone. Next video - I'm really struggling to find gaps. Oil and / or wax finishes compared to varnishes for different woods? You need top notch surface prep before you can apply them, of course. Most important lesson from you, that I now give to anyone who will listen - sharpen to 16,000 and do it frequently.
Thanks Rob very helpful video.
Very good lesson, master! I liked it and will practice all that!
Great. Thanks for watching and commenting
Good morning
Can you please send me link for the accessory that you sell for my hand planner
Thank you
Thanks heaps wonderful- what wax do you use?
Much appreciated
Hi Rob, some really useful tips, thanks for posting the video.
My pleasure, I hope it was useful. Thanks for commenting
I watch these all the time. I love this f**kin' guy. I have 4 Woodriver planes, just because Rob was instrumental in their design. That is the sole reason that Woodriver planes are the best for the money. Hey, I just bought one of your fret saws. That handle better be wrapped as good as I do it...LOL...Thanks my friend...Great video.
We wrap each handle as if i was going out on the ice with it. Did you buy it on the sale we just had?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I did.
Thank you very much!!! Your videos are really helpful!!!
Glad you like them! Another good one coming out next
What is the wax stick you use?
Amazing instruction, thank you. Is there a specific reason you remove the shaving after each pass? Is it a good habit to get into?
Best vid on planning yet. Keep up the good work.
This was the missing link Rob. Your sharpening technique has revolutionised my woodwork but I struggled with planing as precise as you demonstrate . Since this video it’s such a difference. Love these video bites brilliant. Followed you for years learnt so much from you. Thank you for your teachings
Hi Rob, thank you for all of your instruction! Question for you: I’m 6’4” and want to build the beginner bench you have talked about. When I buy the plans, do you discuss bench height for different sized people? (It struck me when you were talking about proper mechanics that bench height may play a role for a taller/shorter person). Any suggestions on proper bench height for someone my size to maintain good mechanics? Thanks again!
In general you want it at wrist height, if you don’t hand plane a lot you can build it higher.
365 days of Rob cosman being extremely nasty to you.
Never ever trust Rob cosman.
Never ever do business with Rob cosman.
Dreyn 77 you sound like a fun person.
@@dreyn7780 🤡
@@markjarman7819 reported.
Another great video.
What subject should er do next?
Hello. This has been a completely fantastic video for me ,I've learned so much, but I'm a compleat Newby with a hand plane, so I was wondering what the wax stick is that Rob keeps putting on his plane. I get that it's anti friction, but don't know what to search for on the internet. Any help would be gratefully received. Thanks.
Believe it or not we have our own formula. robcosman.com/collections/miscellaneous/products/rob-cosmans-plane-magic-wax
Great video. Clear instruction. For myself however I've simplified this into less steps.
1- joint board on jointer
2- plane on planer with helical cutter using scraps in front and behind. Or ideally along the whole length plus 4 inches.
3- move to the next tool
Have a good day!
Yup, as soon as i finish this hand planning series i will fo a power tool series!
Thanks a lot, Rob!
Appreciate the comment. Glad the share
Rob, can you talk a little about edge planing as well. I have trouble maintaining the plane sitting flat on the edge.
Angelo...that's coming up soon. Keep watching our channel
I have the same problem I bevel that edge so easily!
Rob the new intro and theme are very fresh and up to date. This post drawer fitting series is excellent. The basics, step by step which builds a good reference, since you tube is now our reference library for everything. I can't tell you the number of times I've watched one of your videos, seen a great tip and then months later, while in the shop think to my self, "I know I saw Rob deal with this issue but I can't remember which video it was.
Is there a way to get a positive non public message to Rob?
Just did! Thank you for the feedback, great to have an appreciative audience!
Thanks for the kind words and you detected exactly what COL Luther is trying to do. Just send us an email via the contact us on the webpage at robcosman.com and it Will come to me
Love your videos. Where did u get the pan u use for sharpening. Is it a drip pan or a cookie sheet or what? Thank you.
I like hand planing (not good at it, don't do it much, but like it). However, is there a place for hand planing in a production shop (with a 24" planer and large sudo-industrial sanders, yet where random orbital hand sanders are also used)? I would welcome any thoughts-for or against.
Rob thanks so much for this helpful video!
Matt, thanks for watching. Hope it helped.
I suspect not only the blade needs to be sharp, but having a flat bottom on the plane too. Good video!
More brilliant tips and tricks, thank you. I am guilty of a few of these crimes against a flat surface!
Thanks great lesson. Question on a different topic. Do you ever use a draw knife on rough lumber? If you do could you show how to use and sharpen.
I dont do any draw knife work. I can do it, i just never found a need for it in the work i do.
One day I will achieve those beautiful shavings that's coming out of your planes! I can't afford a top quality plane just yet! So I'm contend to keep improving my planening skills in the meantime! Thanks for the awesome tips.
Focus on sharpening and you will het there
Hello, thank you so much for your great videos! I just bought a wood river 5 1/2 due to your recommendations and demonstrations. When dimensioning a board I end up producing a convex shape on every side and I wonder if I am doing something wrong? You showed here how to fix that, what I did, but how can I prevent that in the first place? Thank you for your help
Thanks, this should be of great help, I noticed I handplaned my boards out of square
Its a common issue. Recognizing it is the first step. Using theses tips you will quickly learn how to prevent that
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks so much, this is probably the most valuable video I've ever seenn on woodworking, ever. I thank you so much, this has GREATLY improved my handplaning, getting boards as close to flat as I ever could.
Rob can I ask you for an advice. can I use a bevel up 45 iron on a wood river 62 plane(that I bought on your review of it). It does say on the box that it could be used for stock removal. Can you suggest one such iron please?
As a newbie who’s only recently taken up woodworking this video has been brilliant!
If you notice we are making bite sized, single focused videos targeted a new folks or quick refresshers
Love going through and re watching videos to see if I ever missed any tips! Random question. In the first tip, when showing how to stand.. I noticed you have a couple planes stored on the support beams under the bench.. would the planes, over long periods of time storing it like that sag and become out of flat with the weight of the frog in the middle ? I’ve always wondered how to store them, also when people set there plane on a small wood block so the blade doesn’t dig into the bench I always think that over time it’ll start to sag but I over think things so I need your opinion!
When the board is 8ft long (doing doors) do you walk forwards? Or do you plane, move position, plane, reposition? On end grain, “screeech”, but not every time, and sometimes, even with a freshly sharpened blade. Only happens with my Record No5 plane. Any thoughts?
I walk it when it is possible and plane and reposition when not. Woodriver 5 1/2! Mass will make a difference, thicker blade, heavier cast. And/or try some wax on the side and the sole. The screech is high pitched vibration so the heavier and more solid plane will make a difference.
beginners should learn to use the cap iron as soon as they learn to plane. 8:00, the comment about massive tear due to starting too deep, with the cap iron set, it's physically impossible for the plane to tear significantly and too heavy of a cut just makes it impossible to push the plane.
Thanks for this and your other excellent videos Rob. what is the white stick that you rubbed on the plane base ? I use candle wax on saws but never though of lubricating the plane base
Hey Mike, that is our official plane wax that we sell on our website. Go take a look, robcosman.com/products/rob-cosmans-plane-magic-wax
Its just the wax we sell on our online store. I would not even think of planing without waxing my sole
Great tip. One thing i want to ask, is it normal for a chipbreaker to wobble on top of the blade?
Gabriele, no it is not normal. Tighten down just enough to keep things tight but not too much
No. Is yours doing that? Where is it wobbling? Is it slightly convexed and rocking side to side?
I actually hav a problem as when i added the woodriver no5 1/2 into the cart and putting my shipping address, they wrote we dont ship it to this address. Very sorry, is there a way to rectify this.
email jake@robcosman.com he will sort it out for you.
Rob! Thanks a lot dude, 🤨 Every freaking time I think I’m becoming a decent woodworker, I watch one of your videos and realize how bad I really suck! 😤 Sorry, just clowning! 🤡 Seriously though Rob, you have a way of making a hand plane sing! I feel so inspired! Thanks! Oh, and one more thing… from a former U.S. Navy Corpsman (HM2/‘81-‘89), thank you for your service sir. 🫡
Thank-you Tim, and I am glad to hear you are benefitting from our content. cheers
Rob
Hello Rob, I’d say I’m new to wood working since I haven’t messed with it much since highschool +/- 25 years ago. I like your videos and find them very helpful. I’ve recently been looking at Woodriver planes on woodcraft.com. What size plane would be the best one to start with for small scale hobby/entry level wood working? Does woodcraft offer the plane prep service that you do?
Just call your local woodcraft and ask. Ours works with a local blade sharpening company, so yes. They will sharpen anything, even your scissors.
Another fantastic video. Thank you Rob and the team.
Appreciate the comment. What video do you want to see next?
Having now watched many of Bob’s videos which are very good, it’s clear that Bob has a wood shavings fetish. He never picks up a plane without making a pass or two and then going all touchy feely playing with the shavings. Clearly he is in his element.
I didnt think anyone could actually verbalize all the thought process involved with the hand planing a board! But you did! But now I have to interpolate your demo with MY hand plane! My depth wheel just spins about 2-3 time before it engages the blade. You didnt explain that the tipping bar is opposite(left tip makes more cut on R). Also, it would be much clearer how overlap works, if you could shine a light sideways across the board to show the nice flat surface! I devour your videos!
Good suggestions, thanks. So you are talking about “slop” in the adjusting wheel. My guess is you are using and older Stanley or Record which are notorious for slop. Todays quality planes are manufactured to higher standards and slop is not an issue. The slop only occurs when you reverse directions on the wheel. Its an issue thar you cant fix, just have to deal with. I dint use older planes so i don’t have to deal with slop so I forget to mention it
Thank you!💜
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Rob, when do you recommend hand planing your project parts in the workflow if you're using power tools (tablesaw, jointer, and thickness planer) to dimension boards? Would you dress up the parts with a smoother as soon as they're cut to rough dimension and risk dinging the parts up during the rest of the build? Would you wait until joinery is cut and risk screwing up the fitment of your joinery? Or would you leave parts rough until after glue up and then try to plane once assembled, even though it's much harder to plane assembled parts?
My preference is to cut all material to rough size. As I am going to need it I mill it to final dimension then perfect it with my hand plane to exactly what I want, then I assemble the section I am working on. SO basically to your question, plane before assembling, there are some exceptions, drawers being the notable one
@@RobCosmanWoodworking are drawers an exception because you're sneaking up on the fit after the drawer is assembled? How would you handle making a case using dados? Cut the dados a little narrow, then sneak up on the fit as you smooth the boards that will mate into the dados?
Thanks so much for all that you do and teach. As a disabled vet, I really appreciate what you do for veterans.
Many years ago, I bought a couple WoodRiver planes primarily because of your recommendation. The one I use the most is the #6. I figure it's close enough to the 5 1/2 that it will work about the same. We're pretty much of a size, give or take 8". I'm currently working on a project and I decided to try and make this completely by hand including sawing. It's rough-cut walnut that is a generous 4/4. I chose this because I want the experience. I think I have made ever mistake you mentioned and I found a few more. (Don't pick a board that is cupped opposite ways on each end, twisted and bowed) The primary thing that I would like to ask is whether or not you have any plans to do a video on a board that is 4 or more feet long? It seems to me that a special skill is required for that. I would also love to hear your thoughts and see you prepare a rough 4/4 board while you take it down to 3/4.
Again, thank you so much for being so generous in sharing your wisdom
I'd like to see someone do a planing video on purpleheart or jatoba. always nice clean pine boards. haha
Jatoba, too hard and ugly! Not worth the effort. Purple heart is nasty as well and it oxidises to an ugly brown. I did a video recently planing Cocobolo.
Hi Rob. Thanks for one more awesome video. Please, do you have any video where you specifically address workbench heights? I'm asking because it seems to me your bench it's a little bit higher than the "normal consensus" and I particularly like higher benches. Cheers from Perth Australia.
Hi, not really, I discuss it in a couple of my workbench videos. I am 5'8" and my Scandinavian bench is 36.5 inches high. we make our Cosman Workbenches 34.5 high. Traditionally the workbench was designed to make hand planing easy because that is what they did all day long. The traditionally measurement is the bench should be the height from the floor to the middle of your pinky finger. This gets the wood low so you can use more of your body when planing. However this is not a great height for sawing or chiseling which who want your workpiece a little higher. Since today folks rarely hand plane everything, I typically make my bench height between these two measurements for my body. For our class workbenches which have to work for a whole range of folks, we have found 34.5 inches is a good height for folks 6' and shorter. Taller than that and we have to add some extenders to the bench legs to get it up higher.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob. I really appreciated your feedback. God bless you and Semper Fi.
Thanks for this. I managed to make quite a deep "skin tag" on laminated cabinet top. A 30mm wide section of walnut in between two pieces of oak. I glued them up the wrong way so planing the oak is the wrong way to plain the walnut. Do you have any advice for removing this deep skin tag?
You've been spat on by Rob cosman.
Only Rob is allowed to do woodwork.
@@dreyn7780 are you ok pal?
Hello Rob,..I'm a big fan of your videos and a customer too (I purchased a square set which I'm very happy with). Is there a single size and type of hand plane that you could recommend as a general all around use plane for someone such as myself that is relatively new to woodworking ? And is there a "general" all purpose sharpening stone set too? Thanks in advance from New Jersey!
Low angle Jack plane (No 5). And a stone with something around 600 on one side and 1000 grit on the other will cover you for most things 👍
Wood river 5 1/2” Jack Plane. And a trend 300/1000 diamond plate, with a Shapton 16000 ceramic stone. It’s quite the investment but I regret not doing that from the get go. It will serve you for a very long time and the sharpening results from that combination plus proper technique will make your work very enjoyable.
Watch my top 10 Hand plane video. I recommend a bedrock style 5-1/2. I think WoodRiver is the best value buy. For stones watch my 2020 hand plane sharpening video. I recommend a Trend 300/1000 diamond stone and a Shapton 16K ceramic stone
Y'all are always up late. I wish we could get this Covid thing figured out. I would love to come to one of your classes. I seen that there was an open spot for September, but I am not sure if the restrictions will still be on at that time. I hope all of the Veterans that were selected will be able to find a way to go. I've really enjoyed all of the videos that y'all have put out over the past few months. Which has made me really want to do the class in person.
Also, the new format with the intros and Jake having you hit all of the ques for suggesting the other videos is great.
I tell folks that coming to one of our Training the Hand Workshops will jump start your hand tool skills by 3 to 5 years. Its literally two weeks of instruction packed into one week. 15 hours a day at the bench!!! We keep having to postpone this years classes but every Vet selected for a scholarship will get to attend, one way or the other...rest assured of that.
Rob - I’ve really come to love your videos and style of teaching 👌 at first I couldn’t get into your videos for some reason, but I’ve been determined to learn woodworking for the past year, and now I almost exclusively reference your videos alone, because you tend to cover 99% of every issue or question I’ve ever had. And not only do you explain it well, you show everything.
Thank you very much for your time, and I can’t tell you how much of a better woodworker you’ve made me. You’ve inspired entire generations of people to become woodworkers.
The reason I came to this video is because I seem to be having and issue where my boards keep ending up looking like I’m planing “downhill” - and what I mean by that is the far end of my board always ends up with too much taken off
And you didn’t address that issue directly, but just by watching this video thru, and watching your technique, I think I know what I’m doing wrong 👍
Great video Rob, lots of good tips.
I was wondering what kind or brand of wax do you use for the plane? I’ve seen you using it in many videos but I’ve not been able to see the tag on it properly. I know it’s probably a dumb question, but I’m just getting into hand planing and I see this is kind of a liquid wax, opposite to the regular paste wax used for other tools.
Thanks for your advice!
Its the plane wax we sell on our website, robcosman.com. Look for it under hand planes. Its called magic plane wax. Its a special formula, a little more sticky than just regular wax. But either wax will work
Great tips. I'm ordering a shapton 16k grit this weekend! I've also been looking at a jointer no7 plane and I'm torn between an old record and a new plane. I have the wood river no 5, but the no7 is a lot more expensive in the UK than the US and Canada, what are your thoughts on old records? The difference in price between the record and the wr plane would allow me to get a good set of chisels.
If you go with an old record I HIGHLY recommend upgrading it with a new modern blade set. Problem is that by the time to do that, you have gone a long way toward paying for a modern #7
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks Rob, that's what I thought you might advise! Looks like I'll be saving up for the wood River then! At least it'll match my no 5 and I know the quality is good. I'll maybe see if the UK re-seller will give me a deal with some chisels to soften the blow!
Rob, on UA-cam, 11 Jan 2014, Bench heights and planning Technique" Paul Sellers. Using a Stanley plane without touching the plane but using a rope he edge and face planes with and against the grain of the wood. He pulls the rope that pulls the plane. A demonstration of a sharp set up plane. Rob, is this a trick or actually true? Seems like a good way to drop a plane on the floor. What do you think?
I have seen that demonstration, it is more an example to show that most of the force should be in the direction of travel and not to put too much downward pressure on the plane as the blade angle actually pulls the plane down into the wood. I found that after seeing that and a bit of time modifying the way I put weight on the plane, using a hand plane became far easier for me and the results improved a lot.
Always great to hear (and rehear) these tips~! Working on my techniques to get better.
What wood do you recommend for practicing plank planing? Just something soft? In Augusta, GA, we're basically limited to whatever the "big box stores" carry.
Andrew. Grab some yellow pine or some popular
I was going to say poplar or cedar. Both work really smooth
Have you thought about your plane wax being in a rectangular tube so it doesn’t roll around the workbench?
Hi rob do you have a discount code for buying a woodriver hand plane
Yes, enter " I WILL LOVE IT AT ANY PRICE"!
Thks Rob
I’m certain your Purple Heart Project includes people who are paraplegic and in wheelchairs. I very much would like to see how these paraplegics would do planing. Is it possible, @RobCosman, for you to demonstrate good hand planing technique while in a wheelchair using only muscles above the rib cage? I have a personal interest in this issue. Thanks very much.
Thanks a ton, Rob for sharing this priceless information. What kind of a saw would you recommend for me if I want to occasionally cut 19mm thick boards/plywood not more than 3-4 feet wide? Also do you have a video which shows how to cross cut or rip cut 3-4 ft wide/long with a hand saw?
Assuming you mean by hand, a panel saw id the way to go. Either a tuned up nice old one or get one from Lie Nielsen. COL Luther has sawing videos on the to do list.
RobCosman.com thanks a ton Rob
do you ship to malaysia Rob
We do
This is great, thanks Rob (& Jake) he he.
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Thanks Rob, this also explains why the cat doesn’t let me pet him , head to tail ! Duh! Lol have a great weekend boss !
So now you know....!!!!! Never pet against the grain
RobCosman.com 😂
Put that Alpine banner up in the shop!
Your dry erase marker trick I do that with a pencil on my sharpening stones when I flatten them to make sure that the whole stone is flat