Another really informative video, thanks! I find working on the bevel to be much more difficult to do by the freehand method than doing the back of the plane blade freehand. The latter is easy-peasy. It is the easiest sharpening to do of all of those tasks. It is interesting that many experienced woodworkers sharpen chisels and plane blades by a freehand method without a guide, but will use the ruler for prep of the back of the plane blade.
Great tutorial as always. I noticed that you didn’t check the sole for flatness. Is this the case for any block plane or only the Wood River block planes?
I just purchased one of these WoodRiver low angle block planes from Rob. I haven’t used it yet but I’m looking forward to comparing it to my two other block planes. The way you continue holding the lever cap in place when releasing the pressure in order to adjust it is a great tip for those not familiar with this type of lever cap. Thanks for all the great videos Rob.
I recently picked up this wood river LA block plane because I fell in love with the 5- 1/2. However , I cannot manage to get the blade to project parallel with the sole without it being VERY crooked across the throat. While attempting to adjust it I noticed the slots in the back of the blade that engage the depth adjustment are not perpendicular to the edge at all . Could this be the cause of the issue or am I doing something wrong ? This is the first plane I’ve bought without a lateral adjustment . Thank you for all your help, I am saving up to hopefully attend one of your workshops next year .
Great vid! Can you please tell me the block plane you were using in the vid, what size is it? I would love to buy it but am not sure the model number. There are so many planes out there and I don't want a huge one, just a small Stanley one like you were using. Thanks.
I just sharpened my new 5 1/2 Woodriver. I also have a small 102 that I got for $20. I just came here to make sure the sharpening process was the same as a normal bevel down plane. Looks like the position of the bevel doesn’t matter and the iron gets done the same way.
I’ve watched a number of chisel and plane iron videos. It seems the grit used varies. So assuming you are using Shapton stones when flattening the Back of the chisel, what grits do you use. Back of plane iron, what grits do you use. When sharpening the Chisel bevel? What grits do you use Plane iron bevel! What grits do you use.
For plane irons he does the back using the ruler trick and a 1000 grit diamond block then the 16,000 Shapton stone. For the primary bevel he doesn’t do anything. For the secondary he uses 1000 diamond block and for the tertiary bevel it’s the 16,000 shapton. For chisel bevels it’s the same as plane iron bevels. Secondary is 1000 grit and tertiary is 16,000. For chisel backs go watch his video on sharpening new chisels. But it’s basically starting at 1000 and going up grits until it’s a mirror polish. So maybe like 1000 then 4000 then 8000 then 16,000. Obviously the closer to the cutting edge the more important it is to be perfectly polished. It’s worth noting that the backs of these tools get done once and never touched again. The secondary and tertiary micro bevels is what gets maintained, which is why it takes 30 seconds to sharpen.
My mistake was buying a Taytools block plane. I can never get that one setup right to cut the same way twice. Meanwhile all my wood rivers hold settings like its nothing and took far less time to flatten the sole. I really need to spring for a Woodriver block plane.
I assume the Lie Neilson is also worth buying. But yes if you take the time to set it up like Rob instructs you’re going to be super happy with any plane that costs several hundred dollars.
Hands down the best teacher on UA-cam!!!! Thanks for all the videos
Another really informative video, thanks!
I find working on the bevel to be much more difficult to do by the freehand method than doing the back of the plane blade freehand. The latter is easy-peasy. It is the easiest sharpening to do of all of those tasks. It is interesting that many experienced woodworkers sharpen chisels and plane blades by a freehand method without a guide, but will use the ruler for prep of the back of the plane blade.
I just received mine yesterday (from you, of course) so this is perfect timing. Thanks for doing these videos Rob (et al.) !!!
We are told: that repetition is the mother of wisdom. Thanks.
P.S.You have a nice apron.
Great tutorial as always. I noticed that you didn’t check the sole for flatness. Is this the case for any block plane or only the Wood River block planes?
Brilliant tutorial, my block plane is dialled in perfectly now. Thanks very much, subbed
I just purchased one of these WoodRiver low angle block planes from Rob. I haven’t used it yet but I’m looking forward to comparing it to my two other block planes. The way you continue holding the lever cap in place when releasing the pressure in order to adjust it is a great tip for those not familiar with this type of lever cap. Thanks for all the great videos Rob.
Great update Rob, thanks for sharing it. I have both of the WR block planes and enjoy using them.
Great tips. Thank you.
This is a great video. Thank you for sharing. I look forward to learning more from you in the future. ✌🏽
Have you see Rob teach Houndstooth Dovetails ? ua-cam.com/video/18-xJjKhgbY/v-deo.html
Excellent tutorial - thanks. Sharpening is the key, as always.
I recently picked up this wood river LA block plane because I fell in love with the 5- 1/2.
However , I cannot manage to get the blade to project parallel with the sole without it being VERY crooked across the throat. While attempting to adjust it I noticed the slots in the back of the blade that engage the depth adjustment are not perpendicular to the edge at all . Could this be the cause of the issue or am I doing something wrong ? This is the first plane I’ve bought without a lateral adjustment .
Thank you for all your help, I am saving up to hopefully attend one of your workshops next year .
Great video. Thanks Rob.
That's a useful little video. Thanks
Thanks!
Hey Rob, I just got a new Mastercraft Adjustable Block Plane and am wondering can I use this set up on my Block Plane?
Thank you
Great vid! Can you please tell me the block plane you were using in the vid, what size is it? I would love to buy it but am not sure the model number. There are so many planes out there and I don't want a huge one, just a small Stanley one like you were using. Thanks.
Lost Rob's mic at 11:40
Close captions still work.
Hi 👋🏻 I'm very new to this. Are you sharpening the blade with whetstone?
I just sharpened my new 5 1/2 Woodriver. I also have a small 102 that I got for $20. I just came here to make sure the sharpening process was the same as a normal bevel down plane. Looks like the position of the bevel doesn’t matter and the iron gets done the same way.
What type of wax did you used on the sole?
Used mine at work earlier, installing cabinet set n bottom of back was high, not no more lol
I've missed these quick tutorials from you...thanks, this was a good one.
Great How-To, Rob~! I just picked one of these up at my Woodcraft in Chattanooga. I guess it's time to go thru these steps~! Thanks much~!
I’ve watched a number of chisel and plane iron videos. It seems the grit used varies. So assuming you are using Shapton stones when flattening the
Back of the chisel, what grits do you use.
Back of plane iron, what grits do you use.
When sharpening the
Chisel bevel? What grits do you use
Plane iron bevel! What grits do you use.
For plane irons he does the back using the ruler trick and a 1000 grit diamond block then the 16,000 Shapton stone.
For the primary bevel he doesn’t do anything. For the secondary he uses 1000 diamond block and for the tertiary bevel it’s the 16,000 shapton.
For chisel bevels it’s the same as plane iron bevels. Secondary is 1000 grit and tertiary is 16,000.
For chisel backs go watch his video on sharpening new chisels. But it’s basically starting at 1000 and going up grits until it’s a mirror polish. So maybe like 1000 then 4000 then 8000 then 16,000. Obviously the closer to the cutting edge the more important it is to be perfectly polished.
It’s worth noting that the backs of these tools get done once and never touched again. The secondary and tertiary micro bevels is what gets maintained, which is why it takes 30 seconds to sharpen.
My mistake was buying a Taytools block plane. I can never get that one setup right to cut the same way twice. Meanwhile all my wood rivers hold settings like its nothing and took far less time to flatten the sole. I really need to spring for a Woodriver block plane.
If you watch my video on comparing block planes I had the same issue with the TayTools.
Your sound dropped of a little Rob
Sound?
Hopefully i can buy the woodriver block plane soon. All the reviews i see on it just seem like the only plane really worth buying
I assume the Lie Neilson is also worth buying. But yes if you take the time to set it up like Rob instructs you’re going to be super happy with any plane that costs several hundred dollars.
Good vid, too bad the lapel died half way through.
Sound is low
11:40 audio fell apart
Good info poor sound. But got the gist Ta.
Rob: @2:31 12+30+5=37 not 42
Misspoke the second time around, but the first round was correct. 12+25+5
"..12+30+5=37 not 42.." erm.... :-)
You don't ship to us what's the point of giving information a waste of time
Doesn’t mean you can’t purchase it.
I live in the US and I bought my Wood River planes from Woodcraft. Great job on the video Rob (although I could barely hear after 11:40).
Don't watch the video?
Thanks!
Hopefully i can buy the woodriver block plane soon. All the reviews i see on it just seem like the only plane really worth buying