I am a first timer, trying to do the research to understand what I'm doing. You do a great job explaining everything. Price break down, Sq ft, etc. Next month I have some time off and hope to tackle my own deck project. Hopefully it goes as easy (as it seemed) with your 3pt series. Fingers crossed 🤞🏽
Best of luck with the project. If you need help or run into a speed bump feel free to jump over to our Facebook Group "Everyday Home Repairs Community" and add your question with pictures so we can help you along with the project.
Enjoyed your videos and information about building your deck. I hope to rebuild my 900 sq ft deck this spring with cedar boards. One thing I would do differently is I will start my boards from the outside and go towards the house and I think the benefit of the correct overhang looks better even if you have to rip the row where it meets the house. I also liked the info about the Camo screws. Good job on your project!
Working on my deck and boy do I wish I would have watched this before I started simply for the Camo System. 2 screws per joist and hidden would be amazing.
Camo system? Had never seen this before. Mine is through the top. Oh well. The cost today for treated is astronomical. I certainly learned from this. Thank you. Cresant Bull Bar. Worth every penny! This woman likes to learn and save money.
I'm sorry ma'am, but this is for men only. We men build stuff, & we pound our chests, & we then puff those chests out & look around to see who's admiring us in all of our glory as we just successfully built a thing. If all the sudden women are building things, then how is any of that cool chest-related preening going to occur??? Please stop...stop it.
Very good video and good job overall. One of the most important things to know and let your fellow first timers know is the importance of installing the deck board bark side up. I noticed some of yours were bark side down which will cause cupping and cracking / splintering down the road. Often deck builders will install with bark side down because it is the better looking side of the board (with the bark edges sometimes cutting into the finished corners). I like the camo system and plan to try it on my next deck project. Thanks.
Just found your channel and you made a subscriber out of me! I’m definitely a newbie to this type of repair/reno, but you explanation of each step is thorough and easy to understand. Great job by the way on your work! Can’t wait to check out more videos! Thank you for sharing with all of us DIY folks! 🔨
This is a great video. Not having butt joints and concealing the fasteners is nice! Two tips - #1 Let the joists "run wild" and install the decking. Then when you get to the last few deck boards you can cut the joists exactly where they need to be so you can then add the double rim and the last full deck board will overhang as you intended. #2 As you install the deck boards leave them unfastened to the outside end joists. Then mark your overhang at the ends of the outside joist and snap one chalkline. Cut the deck boards along that line. Now screw each of the deck boards to the outside end joist while moving the joist sideways to meet your required overhang. A flat bar, your bowwrench, and and some 2 x 4's to wedge against the adjacent joist will be helpful.
Nice tips! I really like that approach. Question for you, what is the trick to account / compensate for the contraction you know will happen with pressure treated boards over the first 3 months or so? I am not really worried about the gaps between the boards but more the clean lines you cut on each end will start to move a bit once the boards start to dry out at varying rates.
It's a bit of an effort, but you could probably back out the screws on a few deck boards, and back out the screws and remove the two 2 x 10's on the end. Work the numbers backwards and figure out what you have to cut off the joists to make the overhang work out as originally intended. Snap a chalkline over the top of the joists, square down with a framing square, cut all the joists and reassemble. You will probably have to "compromise" the overhang a little since the last few deck boards are not likely to be perfectly straight.
Measure from the installed boards to the end as you go. You can increase the gaps as you go (on the last few boards if needed) to make up that gap at the end. 😊
after all that measuring the edge didn't have an overhang.. that would drive me absolutely nuts and id rip out 10 boards, flip them around and get the spacing right.
Very informative and thank you for showing how the Camo system works. I’m debating Camo system for a 16x16 composite re-deck and this video really has me leaning that direction. I still want to do a little more research though to see how well it will work with Trex composite. Side note: Due to treated lumber being in high demand in Central Illinois I found composite to be still be a somewhat affordable option. When it’s all said and done I should be around $8/sq. ft, give or take $1/sq. ft.,for entry level Trex Clam Shell from Lowe’s.
Hey Scott, best of luck on the project. Yeah, I know the lumber shortage is really starting to make it hard to knock out projects such as this with pressure treated. I looked at the composite options and for me the deck boards came in about 4 - 5 times more expensive. With that said I didn't take into account staining, additional maintenance , and shorter life of the pressure treated compared to composite. I am also always surprised how much pressure treated shrinks over the firs 2-3 months once the water works out of the boards. Cheers 🍻
What is your take on replacing old deck boards with composite and keeping the wood based platform? Do you have a video on that ? Resurfacing deck on a budget.
One thing you need to consider is the weight of composite ( between 20-30% heavier than wood), so you might need more support. To that end, your joists need to be 12" on centre instead of 16-24 ". this would give the deck a more solid feel because composite is very flexible.
Came upon this because I'm going to have to redo a front deck on a mobile home on land I'm purchasing. Considering the condition of the deck boards I was shocked to find out the frame and posts are in great shape. It's not large. My biggest concern is the railing around the deck and the stairs. I'll know more when I tackle it this weekend.
There is a trim piece on top of my existing deck that is flush with the siding of the house. It runs the length of the deck and appears to serve as a barrier between the deck and siding. How should I go about removing that and should I have any expectation that it can be reused? If it can't or shouldn't be reused, what is that trim piece called so I can purchase replacement trim? I have vinyl siding. Thanks in advance for any help on this question and thank you for the very thorough explanation of how to tackle this project!
A few of those boards didn't have the crown up. You can tell by the grain on the end. When those boards dry the sides of the board will try to curl up and pull up on the fasteners
after completion, what do you suggest for the wood? staining, sealant, or painting. If painting what type of paint? I found your 3 part video helpful and now have a better understanding about patios and what goes into it. thank you.
Looks really good! I watched your video because I plan on replacing my deck as well. But that one board that is darker in color, the one just over your right shoulder at the end of the video. Why did you use that? I would have replaced it. Looks bad. But overall good video! Thanks!
I am doing a comparable size deck in composite. Is that the fastening system to use? Your video's are outstanding, I just discovered them last week. Glad this showed up when I did a "strip a deck" youtube search.
Happy to find your channel. Came for the spigot repair, stayed for the deck. The bow wrench is a great tip to help us decide if we'll downgrade from a higher end hardwood to pressure treated to save $. Do you think the miscalc on the boards not reaching far enough for the overhang is because the wrench butts the boards so tightly? Or why the mishap?
Hey Ellen, good question, I had slight variations in the board spacing and add that up over 30 boards will shift your measurements enough to provide no overhang. Since I have seating and planter boxes (more videos to come) going on that side I am not too concerned. Let me know if you have any other questions and best of lunch on the project.
Great video. Do you have any photos 11months later..? Is that true that those boards will shrink after some time? That Camo tool helped keep the same spacing but is this the same case a year later? Just thinking about doing the same kind deck like you have. Thanks
I purchased 24' boards for this one www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-materials/wood-decking/ac2-reg-5-4-x-6-above-ground-green-pressure-treated-thick-decking/1110627/p-1444422337253-c-13469.htm
I really enjoyed your video and watched because I’m about to build a pool deck which will be about 16x16. I’m just wondering about biting the bullet and using trex decking boards versus what you used. It looks like you are doing well for yourself based on the looks of your neighborhood, do you regret not paying more for the trex? I’m torn
At the time no, since pressure treated was about 20% of the cost of Trex. I think that gap has closed substantially now with the increase in Lumber since the video was created. If Trex was only 2X I would have went that route.
I plan to revamp my deck but I don’t have any tools. So appreciate if you can also give an estimate on the tools like circular saw etc. Another thing I’m contemplating is to keep the deck (after refinishing) or just go with the concrete pavers / tiles.. apart from personal preference any benefits of deck over concrete pavers with tiles?
A little more money a you could have a relatively maintenance free composite deck. Should be able to get entry-to-mid grade Trex or TimberTech for just around $6.40 per square foot. But hey, to each their own.
Not sure if he did it this way or not, but if you plan ahead, cut that first board to the correct length so you don't have to worry about that problem.
ok, i got the cost of sq foot which is 6.75$ What would be a fair cost if i hire a pro to do this for me for 200 sq2? by the way i loved your video, and i like detail oriented, cool and talented people like you 😋
This is a standard width pressure treated deck board so you can't buy standard size pressure treated lumber like 2x8, 2x10, 2x12. Actually the pressure treated wood will shrink a bit in overall width once the water pulls out of the boards. This spring I will pull the screws and shift over the boards for the last few rows which will allow me to cut a deck board down and get a 1' - 1.5" overhang. 👍
Very nice work except for the 7th. board from the edge sticks out like a sore thumb. The shading of that board does not blend in with all the rest and I feel should have not been used. If you're going to just Paint instead of staining then I guess it doesn't matter.
The pressure treated deck board actual size is 1-5/32" x 5-1/2" actual size here is the link for the boards at Menards www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-materials/wood-decking/ac2-reg-5-4-x-6-above-ground-green-pressure-treated-thick-decking/1110627/p-1444422337253-c-13469.htm?tid=-1452257607087985468&ipos=1
Using cedar decking is the WORST material! After 2-3 years, it looks like crap and tthe maintenance every 2 years sucks!! USE COMPOSITE and you will never need to maintain it as it has a 25 year warranty! Cedar is too $$$ now anyway. So his cedar cost is $6 SF, i used composite and it was $4 SF with a 25 year warranty...
This is just standard pressure treated pine not cedar. Composite decking is about 2X or 3X the material cost now and about 5X at the time I did this video. Still with the increased cost might be the right move.
You really do a good job explaining things.
Thanks Bruce, appreciate the kind words. 👍
I am a first timer, trying to do the research to understand what I'm doing. You do a great job explaining everything. Price break down, Sq ft, etc. Next month I have some time off and hope to tackle my own deck project. Hopefully it goes as easy (as it seemed) with your 3pt series. Fingers crossed 🤞🏽
Best of luck with the project. If you need help or run into a speed bump feel free to jump over to our Facebook Group "Everyday Home Repairs Community" and add your question with pictures so we can help you along with the project.
Hey John, so how did your deck project end up going for you??
Enjoyed your videos and information about building your deck. I hope to rebuild my 900 sq ft deck this spring with cedar boards. One thing I would do differently is I will start my boards from the outside and go towards the house and I think the benefit of the correct overhang looks better even if you have to rip the row where it meets the house. I also liked the info about the Camo screws. Good job on your project!
Working on my deck and boy do I wish I would have watched this before I started simply for the Camo System. 2 screws per joist and hidden would be amazing.
Yeah, I was pleased with the Camo System and 2 years later they are still all holding tight 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs going to buy one today. Only had 4 rows done of 22. Will do the rest with the Camo system.
Camo system? Had never seen this before. Mine is through the top. Oh well. The cost today for treated is astronomical. I certainly learned from this. Thank you. Cresant Bull Bar. Worth every penny! This woman likes to learn and save money.
I'm sorry ma'am, but this is for men only. We men build stuff, & we pound our chests, & we then puff those chests out & look around to see who's admiring us in all of our glory as we just successfully built a thing. If all the sudden women are building things, then how is any of that cool chest-related preening going to occur??? Please stop...stop it.
@@scottsherman5262 We still appreciate the chest pounding. 😏 Mine is demo and necessity. Carry on!
Very good video and good job overall. One of the most important things to know and let your fellow first timers know is the importance of installing the deck board bark side up. I noticed some of yours were bark side down which will cause cupping and cracking / splintering down the road. Often deck builders will install with bark side down because it is the better looking side of the board (with the bark edges sometimes cutting into the finished corners). I like the camo system and plan to try it on my next deck project. Thanks.
Great Series, super easy to understand for a first time deck rebuilder here. Thanks alot.
Thanks for watching, best of luck on your project!
Just found your channel and you made a subscriber out of me! I’m definitely a newbie to this type of repair/reno, but you explanation of each step is thorough and easy to understand. Great job by the way on your work! Can’t wait to check out more videos! Thank you for sharing with all of us DIY folks! 🔨
Hey Angela, happy to have you along for the ride! We will keep the videos coming and best of luck on your projects 👍
Awesome video series. Plan on tackling this project soon. Thank you and subscribed!
Thanks so much I learned a lot to fixing decks 👍
This is a great video. Not having butt joints and concealing the fasteners is nice! Two tips - #1 Let the joists "run wild" and install the decking. Then when you get to the last few deck boards you can cut the joists exactly where they need to be so you can then add the double rim and the last full deck board will overhang as you intended. #2 As you install the deck boards leave them unfastened to the outside end joists. Then mark your overhang at the ends of the outside joist and snap one chalkline. Cut the deck boards along that line. Now screw each of the deck boards to the outside end joist while moving the joist sideways to meet your required overhang. A flat bar, your bowwrench, and and some 2 x 4's to wedge against the adjacent joist will be helpful.
Nice tips! I really like that approach. Question for you, what is the trick to account / compensate for the contraction you know will happen with pressure treated boards over the first 3 months or so? I am not really worried about the gaps between the boards but more the clean lines you cut on each end will start to move a bit once the boards start to dry out at varying rates.
The decking shouldn't expand or contract lengthwise.
It's a bit of an effort, but you could probably back out the screws on a few deck boards, and back out the screws and remove the two 2 x 10's on the end. Work the numbers backwards and figure out what you have to cut off the joists to make the overhang work out as originally intended. Snap a chalkline over the top of the joists, square down with a framing square, cut all the joists and reassemble. You will probably have to "compromise" the overhang a little since the last few deck boards are not likely to be perfectly straight.
Correction - meant to say "one 2 x 10 on the end".
Measure from the installed boards to the end as you go. You can increase the gaps as you go (on the last few boards if needed) to make up that gap at the end. 😊
after all that measuring the edge didn't have an overhang.. that would drive me absolutely nuts and id rip out 10 boards, flip them around and get the spacing right.
Very informative and thank you for showing how the Camo system works. I’m debating Camo system for a 16x16 composite re-deck and this video really has me leaning that direction. I still want to do a little more research though to see how well it will work with Trex composite.
Side note: Due to treated lumber being in high demand in Central Illinois I found composite to be still be a somewhat affordable option. When it’s all said and done I should be around $8/sq. ft, give or take $1/sq. ft.,for entry level Trex Clam Shell from Lowe’s.
Hey Scott, best of luck on the project. Yeah, I know the lumber shortage is really starting to make it hard to knock out projects such as this with pressure treated. I looked at the composite options and for me the deck boards came in about 4 - 5 times more expensive. With that said I didn't take into account staining, additional maintenance , and shorter life of the pressure treated compared to composite. I am also always surprised how much pressure treated shrinks over the firs 2-3 months once the water works out of the boards. Cheers 🍻
Interesting to see the camo system!
Well done sir, I learned a lot. Thanks for posting.
Happy to help! 👍
What is your take on replacing old deck boards with composite and keeping the wood based platform? Do you have a video on that ? Resurfacing deck on a budget.
One thing you need to consider is the weight of composite ( between 20-30% heavier than wood), so you might need more support. To that end, your joists need to be 12" on centre instead of 16-24 ". this would give the deck a more solid feel because composite is very flexible.
Well done. I have to do exactly this job.
Came upon this because I'm going to have to redo a front deck on a mobile home on land I'm purchasing. Considering the condition of the deck boards I was shocked to find out the frame and posts are in great shape. It's not large. My biggest concern is the railing around the deck and the stairs. I'll know more when I tackle it this weekend.
Best of luck and you are right the railing some times needs a little TLC the same time the deck boards start to go.
You are AMAZING! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THI!S!
I really loved your videos. Great job👌👍
Great series! You gave a breakdown of the cost for supplies. How many hours would you guess you put into the project?
There is a trim piece on top of my existing deck that is flush with the siding of the house. It runs the length of the deck and appears to serve as a barrier between the deck and siding. How should I go about removing that and should I have any expectation that it can be reused? If it can't or shouldn't be reused, what is that trim piece called so I can purchase replacement trim? I have vinyl siding. Thanks in advance for any help on this question and thank you for the very thorough explanation of how to tackle this project!
Great video.
One thing I would do differently is to temporarily install last deck plank, then cut the extra joist boards to fit flush.
My .02 cents.
Great videos, thank you!
Thanks for watching!
A few of those boards didn't have the crown up. You can tell by the grain on the end. When those boards dry the sides of the board will try to curl up and pull up on the fasteners
Great video
Thanks Mr Smith!
Great video.
Excellent
after completion, what do you suggest for the wood? staining, sealant, or painting. If painting what type of paint? I found your 3 part video helpful and now have a better understanding about patios and what goes into it. thank you.
Looks really good! I watched your video because I plan on replacing my deck as well. But that one board that is darker in color, the one just over your right shoulder at the end of the video. Why did you use that? I would have replaced it. Looks bad. But overall good video! Thanks!
Great deck repair series, thank you. Did you ever build new seating and planter boxes? I think it was part of your original plan to do that.
I am doing a comparable size deck in composite. Is that the fastening system to use? Your video's are outstanding, I just discovered them last week. Glad this showed up when I did a "strip a deck" youtube search.
Happy to find your channel. Came for the spigot repair, stayed for the deck. The bow wrench is a great tip to help us decide if we'll downgrade from a higher end hardwood to pressure treated to save $. Do you think the miscalc on the boards not reaching far enough for the overhang is because the wrench butts the boards so tightly? Or why the mishap?
Hey Ellen, good question, I had slight variations in the board spacing and add that up over 30 boards will shift your measurements enough to provide no overhang. Since I have seating and planter boxes (more videos to come) going on that side I am not too concerned. Let me know if you have any other questions and best of lunch on the project.
Thank you :)
Thx! Very helpful
Awesome video. The answers all my questions except one. Did you need a permit for this repair?
For this project I did not but check with your local building code to ensure you project is on the up and up. 👍
Really great vids...one thing not mentioned in costs is what would a labor charge be for such a project?
Did you have to pay a premium for the 24ft pcs? Would it have been cheaper to turn the deck boards 90 degrees and use (presumably) 14ft deck pieces?
Great video.
Do you have any photos 11months later..? Is that true that those boards will shrink after some time? That Camo tool helped keep the same spacing but is this the same case a year later? Just thinking about doing the same kind deck like you have. Thanks
What size and type of boards did you use for the decking?
I purchased 24' boards for this one www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-materials/wood-decking/ac2-reg-5-4-x-6-above-ground-green-pressure-treated-thick-decking/1110627/p-1444422337253-c-13469.htm
Cut joists 1" , add rim ,now you have your overhang.Wish I used camo
I really enjoyed your video and watched because I’m about to build a pool deck which will be about 16x16. I’m just wondering about biting the bullet and using trex decking boards versus what you used. It looks like you are doing well for yourself based on the looks of your neighborhood, do you regret not paying more for the trex? I’m torn
At the time no, since pressure treated was about 20% of the cost of Trex. I think that gap has closed substantially now with the increase in Lumber since the video was created. If Trex was only 2X I would have went that route.
I plan to revamp my deck but I don’t have any tools. So appreciate if you can also give an estimate on the tools like circular saw etc. Another thing I’m contemplating is to keep the deck (after refinishing) or just go with the concrete pavers / tiles..
apart from personal preference any benefits of deck over concrete pavers with tiles?
A little more money a you could have a relatively maintenance free composite deck. Should be able to get entry-to-mid grade Trex or TimberTech for just around $6.40 per square foot.
But hey, to each their own.
how did you cut off the end nearest your house towards the side wall? Since your saw cannot rip that close to your house.
They never show that stuff! That's a good question!
Not sure if he did it this way or not, but if you plan ahead, cut that first board to the correct length so you don't have to worry about that problem.
Why not add Joist flashing tape to the joist and ledger boards?
Hi. 4:38 so the 1st board is nailed on only one side? Did you screw from top? Thanks
Yep, used the Camp tool to set the 1 screw and then placed the other close to the vinyl manually without the Camo tool.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks much! :)
ok, i got the cost of sq foot which is 6.75$
What would be a fair cost if i hire a pro to do this for me for 200 sq2?
by the way i loved your video, and i like detail oriented, cool and talented people like you 😋
I have doc . over 35 yrs old.now 4 fl ond its 50 fl . and my laned
I wan do fish
What do you do when the deck starts under a j channel? Like fastening the first board
Should have all the grain pointing down on the decking
How did you make sure your last board was straight since there was nowhere to use your BoWrench?
How much do you charge to remove decking per square foot? How much to put down new decking per square foot?
Guess the last board is 2x6, if it is small, may be buy and install a 2x8 to overcome.
This is a standard width pressure treated deck board so you can't buy standard size pressure treated lumber like 2x8, 2x10, 2x12. Actually the pressure treated wood will shrink a bit in overall width once the water pulls out of the boards. This spring I will pull the screws and shift over the boards for the last few rows which will allow me to cut a deck board down and get a 1' - 1.5" overhang. 👍
Would it have been easier to simply snap a chalk line from the first board to the last?
How much is the average labor cost for that with highest and lowest with a company?
Nice but were you able to get how much you would have saved doing yourself compared to a contractor?
I didn’t get quotes but I would guess about $3K to $5K in labor.
Very nice work except for the 7th. board from the edge sticks out like a sore thumb. The shading of that board does not blend in with all the rest and I feel should have not been used. If you're going to just Paint instead of staining then I guess it doesn't matter.
Did you take a minute to admire that northern cardinal?
Are those 2x6 on top ?
The pressure treated deck board actual size is 1-5/32" x 5-1/2" actual size here is the link for the boards at Menards www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-materials/wood-decking/ac2-reg-5-4-x-6-above-ground-green-pressure-treated-thick-decking/1110627/p-1444422337253-c-13469.htm?tid=-1452257607087985468&ipos=1
It didn’t look like you were putting a space between all the boards.
Using cedar decking is the WORST material! After 2-3 years, it looks like crap and tthe maintenance every 2 years sucks!! USE COMPOSITE and you will never need to maintain it as it has a 25 year warranty! Cedar is too $$$ now anyway. So his cedar cost is $6 SF, i used composite and it was $4 SF with a 25 year warranty...
This is just standard pressure treated pine not cedar. Composite decking is about 2X or 3X the material cost now and about 5X at the time I did this video. Still with the increased cost might be the right move.