Hello Chris. You must be psychic. I was looking up how to make my own panels a couple of days ago. Thank you so much for going through different options. I had no idea some of these boards even existed and which adhesives to use. You're a gem. ❤
@@ChrisBreier As long as you can use them then it's all ok. Now you have me shopping and comparing prices for gesso and gator boards and any other boards I can get my hands on. Thanks!!! 🤣❤
I personally enjoy painting directly on the ampersand gessobord. Have you tried this before? I am curious and would love to understand how the canvas being on top changes the experience for you.
Yes! I paint directly on them all them time. I often use them when I use acrylics like watercolors, the smooth surface is like hot press watercolor paper. Here's an example ua-cam.com/video/VJfzShVXkjU/v-deo.htmlsi=0MxjwWZTE_RVxwXk. Adding canvas to it gives it more texture which is useful for dry brushing.
Thanks! That's a good question. I have never tried it but I think you could experiment with glueing the raw canvas down to the board. There are two issues that I can think of though. Raw canvas usually shrinks when you apply anything that has moisture in it, so that shrinkage could put tension on the board and warp it a bit. The other thing is that if it's a very thin canvas then some of the adhesive might seep through to the front of the canvas. Another idea that I had was that you could just buy canvas that's already gessoed and then just glue it gesso side down. Since it's already primed it the gesso should prevent the adhesive from seeping through to the front and it shouldn't shrink much either.
Very cool video, super informative really! Would the gloss varnish/medium work as a good barrier for the formaldehyde that gas out from almost every hardboard mdf? I mainly use hdf boards primed with acrylic gesso and only found this recently...
That's a good question!....I don't know the answer to that. I bet Golden technical support would know. If I find the answer I will report back with it. 🙂
I found an interesting article on the Ampersand site that states that their Hardbord doesn't contain formaldehyde or other harmful VOCs. Here's the link (just search for the word "formaldehyde" to jump to the relevant section) ampersandart.com/blog-full-article/ampersand-panels-vs-lumber-yard
@@ChrisBreier oh yea I had heard about their panels , and nice article about mdf and hdf ,super cool that they use only natural dry processes to make their panels and natural binders, I'll have to try them , even with them being more expensive than just getting it from a lumberstore, I heard something about a sealer that block 98 to 99% of the vocs , yet I truly prefer to get a virtually vocal free instead, thanks for the help, and keep up with your awesome video contents!✌️
It depends upon what you compare them to. You can get some really cheap canvas boards from a big box craft store but the quality isn't that great. If you cut into them you'll find that the core is made from cardboard. Plus the canvas can be really thin with very little texture. When you start looking at better quality canvas boards those are more expensive so you can probably make quality panels yourself for less. I like making them for other reasons though- you won't find 24x36 canvas panels that are cradled with 1.5" glossy birch plywood at the craft store. 🙂
@@SMART-pn3fn I think the muslin is strong enough but you could also just pour directly onto the panel without the canvas/muslin. I haven't done much pouring so I haven't really tested out all of these panel options for acrylic pouring. You can test out a flat 1/8" panel and if you have trouble with warping you can try a thicker panel. Ampersand has a primed smooth panel that's 3/8" thick, or you can try a cradled panel that's reinforced with wood on the back. I hope this helps!
Hello Chris. You must be psychic. I was looking up how to make my own panels a couple of days ago. Thank you so much for going through different options. I had no idea some of these boards even existed and which adhesives to use. You're a gem. ❤
That's funny! I might have went a little overboard testing out all of the different options. 😀
@@ChrisBreier As long as you can use them then it's all ok. Now you have me shopping and comparing prices for gesso and gator boards and any other boards I can get my hands on. Thanks!!! 🤣❤
This information is all so helpful! Thanks for sharing this video and information.
Thank you for sharing these amazing resorces!
Thank you . All the best.
I personally enjoy painting directly on the ampersand gessobord. Have you tried this before? I am curious and would love to understand how the canvas being on top changes the experience for you.
Yes! I paint directly on them all them time. I often use them when I use acrylics like watercolors, the smooth surface is like hot press watercolor paper. Here's an example ua-cam.com/video/VJfzShVXkjU/v-deo.htmlsi=0MxjwWZTE_RVxwXk. Adding canvas to it gives it more texture which is useful for dry brushing.
This is such a great in depth video. If I like to work on raw canvas would you recommend the same steps you used for the muslin?
Thanks! That's a good question. I have never tried it but I think you could experiment with glueing the raw canvas down to the board. There are two issues that I can think of though. Raw canvas usually shrinks when you apply anything that has moisture in it, so that shrinkage could put tension on the board and warp it a bit. The other thing is that if it's a very thin canvas then some of the adhesive might seep through to the front of the canvas. Another idea that I had was that you could just buy canvas that's already gessoed and then just glue it gesso side down. Since it's already primed it the gesso should prevent the adhesive from seeping through to the front and it shouldn't shrink much either.
Very cool video, super informative really!
Would the gloss varnish/medium work as a good barrier for the formaldehyde that gas out from almost every hardboard mdf? I mainly use hdf boards primed with acrylic gesso and only found this recently...
That's a good question!....I don't know the answer to that. I bet Golden technical support would know. If I find the answer I will report back with it. 🙂
I found an interesting article on the Ampersand site that states that their Hardbord doesn't contain formaldehyde or other harmful VOCs. Here's the link (just search for the word "formaldehyde" to jump to the relevant section) ampersandart.com/blog-full-article/ampersand-panels-vs-lumber-yard
@@ChrisBreier oh yea I had heard about their panels , and nice article about mdf and hdf ,super cool that they use only natural dry processes to make their panels and natural binders, I'll have to try them , even with them being more expensive than just getting it from a lumberstore, I heard something about a sealer that block 98 to 99% of the vocs , yet I truly prefer to get a virtually vocal free instead, thanks for the help, and keep up with your awesome video contents!✌️
How is the cost of this compared to buying them ready made or buying canvases?
It depends upon what you compare them to. You can get some really cheap canvas boards from a big box craft store but the quality isn't that great. If you cut into them you'll find that the core is made from cardboard. Plus the canvas can be really thin with very little texture. When you start looking at better quality canvas boards those are more expensive so you can probably make quality panels yourself for less. I like making them for other reasons though- you won't find 24x36 canvas panels that are cradled with 1.5" glossy birch plywood at the craft store. 🙂
Would it be cheaper to do all this?
It can be depending upon which supplies you use. The other benefit is that you can make them to your own specifications.
@@ChrisBreier its tough to do all this at home..you need studio space i suppose 😊
Thank you for this video. I have a question on the use of muslin on board. Will it be strong enough for a fluid acrylic painting. Thank you.
@@SMART-pn3fn I think the muslin is strong enough but you could also just pour directly onto the panel without the canvas/muslin. I haven't done much pouring so I haven't really tested out all of these panel options for acrylic pouring. You can test out a flat 1/8" panel and if you have trouble with warping you can try a thicker panel. Ampersand has a primed smooth panel that's 3/8" thick, or you can try a cradled panel that's reinforced with wood on the back. I hope this helps!
@@ChrisBreier Thank you Chris.