No need for a pad spreader, especially if replacing the rotors. Just put a wood wedge between the worn pads and the rotor and lever the pistons back. Easy to do and much less expensive. If not replacing the rotors just be careful to put the lever against the wood, not on the rotor's face. No need to replace the bolts either, the original bolts are fine. Do more with less, it's environmentally friendly (less trash) as well as less expensive! And several others point out, relieve the spring pressure on the pins, it will come out easier and not fly away. I like how these videos are very thorough and quick, good stuff!
FCP Euro - when are you going to do an F8x chassis rear and front wheel hub/bearing assembly change?? Those things are a nightmare and so badly designed - especially the rear!
@@fcpeuro Please ask Gareth to work some magic! I ordered a load of brake parts from you and they just arrived today but I am not looking forward to the rears because I can’t put all these shiny parts on without changing the hubs and bearings before that! Which means I need to spend more money with you! 😅 You’ve got two more big orders coming from Japan shortly… Any idea when the next parts special for cooling and drivelines will be?? 😉
Great video. Really showing the key steps which is so helpful. Quick question : is it normal to hear a whizzing noise after the change of pads and discs? Sounds almost like a space ship! Just want to confirm this is normal?
@@edward-tv Hi, thank you. I have already noticed the noise reducing after a few hundred miles of driving. Appreciate you taking the time to reply 👍 deserved a follow!
Typically you will have one on the front driver's side, and one on the rear passenger side. All makes are different, though and manufacturers will often change that around.
If only the brake pads are worn then just replace the pads, if the rotors need changing for whatever reason; worn, warped etc then definitely replace the rotors and pads. Pads is a must to replace when replacing the rotors.
The pins have a small shim on the end of them. When you hammer them in and get them fully seated the shim wedges them in place. If the sensor never made contact with the rotor then there is no reason to replace them but when you pull them out of the slot in the pad they can sometimes break so be careful while doing that.
3:08 you're marring up the caliper, so cringe here
Came here to say this.
i was like BRO CMON !! the paint.. :( glad im not alone
Fun fact: the rear is the same size as the e60 m5. Just with a revised hat design.
No need for a pad spreader, especially if replacing the rotors. Just put a wood wedge between the worn pads and the rotor and lever the pistons back. Easy to do and much less expensive. If not replacing the rotors just be careful to put the lever against the wood, not on the rotor's face.
No need to replace the bolts either, the original bolts are fine. Do more with less, it's environmentally friendly (less trash) as well as less expensive! And several others point out, relieve the spring pressure on the pins, it will come out easier and not fly away.
I like how these videos are very thorough and quick, good stuff!
What if the caliper mounting bolts ar seized or hard to get off. I don't have much room since I'm just on jack stands.
do you have to disable the electronic parking brake when doing the rear or font brakes?
Yes you do, only for the rear brakes
Make sure hand brake is off 😅
Absolutely.
Finally some f80x videos on fcp euro whoooooo!!!
Excellent video! Thank you! I just did my front brakes and doing the rear tomorrow.
Glad it helped!
I was hesitant to do mine but after see this I will defiantly do it.
You got this no problem!
FCP Euro - when are you going to do an F8x chassis rear and front wheel hub/bearing assembly change?? Those things are a nightmare and so badly designed - especially the rear!
Ahhhh! We will add it to the list.
@@fcpeuro Please ask Gareth to work some magic! I ordered a load of brake parts from you and they just arrived today but I am not looking forward to the rears because I can’t put all these shiny parts on without changing the hubs and bearings before that!
Which means I need to spend more money with you! 😅 You’ve got two more big orders coming from Japan shortly…
Any idea when the next parts special for cooling and drivelines will be?? 😉
Why do you skip the step on how to get the rotor off? I’m screwed here, can’t get it off!!
hello FCP, is it possible you guys can let me know what size bolt fits on the GROUND, on the Ignition harness. For a BMW, 535i 2011 (F10) model.
You need to release the handbrake, and it will come off much easier!
Great video. Really showing the key steps which is so helpful. Quick question : is it normal to hear a whizzing noise after the change of pads and discs? Sounds almost like a space ship! Just want to confirm this is normal?
It goes away after some driving. I had that issue
@@edward-tv Hi, thank you. I have already noticed the noise reducing after a few hundred miles of driving. Appreciate you taking the time to reply 👍 deserved a follow!
I have this issue too
@@hn92 Hi it is normal and you will notice it reduces as you drive and eventually will be gone completely 👍
@@praze1234 okay just a quick one did you apply any brake cleaner or degreaser to the new discs?
What about doing the emergency pads?
Where the torque spec for the wheel?
That would be 140nm.
Thank you! Excellent illustration.
There is padle sensor in front left wheel only. And in the rear its left and right ? Or only to the right ? Thx
Typically you will have one on the front driver's side, and one on the rear passenger side. All makes are different, though and manufacturers will often change that around.
How many kilometers you have to change the rear brake rotor ? Every time you change the brake pad you have to change the rotor too?
If only the brake pads are worn then just replace the pads, if the rotors need changing for whatever reason; worn, warped etc then definitely replace the rotors and pads. Pads is a must to replace when replacing the rotors.
what holds those 2 pins in and do you have to change the pad wear sensor every time
The pins have a small shim on the end of them. When you hammer them in and get them fully seated the shim wedges them in place. If the sensor never made contact with the rotor then there is no reason to replace them but when you pull them out of the slot in the pad they can sometimes break so be careful while doing that.
Super ✨👍🏼 France 🇫🇷
Great video