I planned on replacing my ball joints this weekend. Came here for tips. Now I see the best way to replace the ball joints is to buy entire new control arms. Little more $ but way worth not having to buy all those extra tool's and the hassle.
Is BFH bitch from hell? The other side came off easier. I thought cutting the heads off would be easier than chiseling them off. Guess I was wrong still got it done
It stands for big f$cking hammer. I was stuck as a new tech with the huck rivets (they go in the corners of frames) to replace and I learned if I “X” them with a die grinder then chisel, that’s about the easiest they get. Too bad. I could done the job for you and you could have fixed my old chest freezer.
It's easier to drill the rivets with a good bit as deep as the thickness of the ball joint flange then push them out with the air hammer. A die grinder with a carbide burr works well too.
I have been using a Makita 4 1/2 inch angle grinder for years, got me out of a lot of jams. I would have put the thicker metal grinding wheel on it and just ground the heads off the rivets. Battery powered tools are great for the field but if you have power available I would use a Makita or dewalt what ever your preference would be. Just a suggestion but would go a lot faster. Great HVAC vids by the way. Never miss one
I figured this Milwaukee grinder would make it easier than chiseling the heads of the rivers off. That was my approach on passenger side. It’s was a humble struggle yet lots of clunks and rubbing sounds have disappeared when driving the Astro around
can't say that I've ever turned and air hammer volume control down, I'm always looking for more power and crank the regulator wide open lol. when doing both ball joints, remove the bottom first then use a piece of iron pipe/tubing 3/4" or larger from the ground/jack up through the hole to upper ball joint shank, try to make pipe inline/control arm straight out and hammer down on control arm. it can work with the pipe off to the side, just tends to bind a bit more. alternate, before removing the knuckle from either ball joint, cut the rivets jack the vehicle up under lower control arm at ball joint and hammer down upper control arm, although it now becomes harder to remove the upper from knuckle, could always remove upper and put it back. alternate2, just hammer the old ball joint shank back and forth towards front and rear of vehicle, after removing rivets. one thing I've learned is to always have multiple plans of attack for everything and be able to quickly change direction ;)
I just keep attaching until I accomplish what I wanted. Yes I will struggle at times, and other times breeze right through projects. Everything is always rusted together always keeps it interesting
Oh those are only grade 2 bolts that come with those ball joints they will break going down the road been there done that. You need to get some grade 8s
there shouldn't be that much force on them, unless something is very wrong, like the hole in control arm too large, you like curb jumping or 4x4 rock crawling. but you may have tightened them beyond their yield point, most things have torque specs for a reason and higher grade bolts will shear off easier due to the hardness, especially when over-torqued and used with improperly applied forces ;) or you just got the ebay $10 chinesium special :))
It was painful watching you struggle. If you had completely cut the heads off of the rivets the ball joint would have come out with very little effort. I give you credit for trying. Maybe you can find some videos to guide you on your next automotive project. Your HVAC skills are excellent and I have picked up some tips from you...thanks.
Sorry it was painful to watch me work through and figure out a good way to remove the upper joint. I thought I cut the heads off the rivets. I grinned them flat yet they also could of been stuck from all the rust. The other side after chiseling off the rivet heads opened up with the air hammer chiseling it apart. This time I needed to smash out the rivets. Which will be my approach on my next upper ball joint if any other vehicle I have has riveted in joints.
@@throttlebottle5906 Nothing comes apart easy due to being rusted together. I remember I had to break the rim off the rotor with a sledge hammer since it was rusted together
In Haynes Manual it says to install the bolts (supplied in the ball joint kit) from the top of the control arm (2003 Chevy Cavalier, just one control arm). I thought first to install them from the bottom (how you did and it is done so in other films), but now think probably better to install them from the top (head of the bolt on top, nut - on the bottom), I think it is safer that way. Even if the nut will fall off the bolt will be there. Thank you for the idea with the Blue Threadlocker, I didn't plan to use it, but definitely will after watching this film. I'm very confused about torque specifications on those bolts. How many Ft-lbs did you use? In Haynes Manual it says: "Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the new balljoint instruction sheet". Mine doesn't have any instruction sheet. I found statement on one forum "The instructions supplied with my MOOG upper ball joints stated 12-14 ft.-lbs for the bolts and nuts." My suspension kit is not MOOG, it is OCPTY - New 8-Piece fit for 1995-2005 for Chevrolet Cavalier - 2 Front Lower Ball Joint 2 Sway Bar 2 Outer 2 Inner Tie Rod End. I think you said 10-12 Ft-lbs. Thank you for the informative film.
Grease them new ball joints well. As long as ya remember to grease them once or twice a year they should last a good long time. Clean and repack the wheel bearing and you’ll be in good shape. Do you plan to put a new set of brake pads on? Are the calipers I’m good shape still?
You need to go on youtube and watch videos on how to do this. You are doing this the hard way. You have the tools to do this correctly already. Just trying to help you.
I might have struggled somewhat yet I need an occasional ass kicking. Makes me attempt to conquer what's stopping me from succeeding. Its why I like to go outside my expertise and play with my cars. I couldn't find any good videos that most the work wasn't edited out.
@@thehvachacker This guy is the best I've seen and explains everything as he goes along. Check him out here: ua-cam.com/channels/tAGzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA.html I'm an ex-mechanic so I know he is real. Good luck and enjoy your restoration.
I like his vids. His repairs don’t always go smoothly just like a lot of my work. Where others almost seem to never have hiccups and every repair never has complications
@@thehvachacker Yes that's another reason I like his vids, he doesn't cut the bad parts out, he let's it roll and always gets the job done. Thanks for responding. I really like your videos, I just saw the Hoboken, I'm originally from Trenton, love it here in Florida.
The other side was easier chiseling off the rivet heads. I thought grinding the heads off would be easier than chiseling. Yet if i ever need to do again I won't even try to separate with chisel. grind heads off and just chisel the rivet straight down out of ball joint.
@6:37, I would had given up. Looks like a Bitch. Cordless grinder, then air chisel, than cordless grinder, then back to air chisel. Fuck that. I will use ccx a blow torch on those boots.
I planned on replacing my ball joints this weekend. Came here for tips. Now I see the best way to replace the ball joints is to buy entire new control arms. Little more $ but way worth not having to buy all those extra tool's and the hassle.
I was just thinking that would it be easier to change the control arm?
Only if I would have got it in stead of this single bull.. cr
Those river are always a pain. A word of wisdom from an old car tech: when doing suspension work, DO NOT be afraid of a BFH!
Is BFH bitch from hell? The other side came off easier. I thought cutting the heads off would be easier than chiseling them off. Guess I was wrong still got it done
It stands for big f$cking hammer. I was stuck as a new tech with the huck rivets (they go in the corners of frames) to replace and I learned if I “X” them with a die grinder then chisel, that’s about the easiest they get.
Too bad. I could done the job for you and you could have fixed my old chest freezer.
It's easier to drill the rivets with a good bit as deep as the thickness of the ball joint flange then push them out with the air hammer. A die grinder with a carbide burr works well too.
I have been using a Makita 4 1/2 inch angle grinder for years, got me out of a lot of jams. I would have put the thicker metal grinding wheel on it and just ground the heads off the rivets. Battery powered tools are great for the field but if you have power available I would use a Makita or dewalt what ever your preference would be. Just a suggestion but would go a lot faster. Great HVAC vids by the way. Never miss one
I figured this Milwaukee grinder would make it easier than chiseling the heads of the rivers off. That was my approach on passenger side. It’s was a humble struggle yet lots of clunks and rubbing sounds have disappeared when driving the Astro around
can't say that I've ever turned and air hammer volume control down, I'm always looking for more power and crank the regulator wide open lol.
when doing both ball joints, remove the bottom first then use a piece of iron pipe/tubing 3/4" or larger from the ground/jack up through the hole to upper ball joint shank, try to make pipe inline/control arm straight out and hammer down on control arm. it can work with the pipe off to the side, just tends to bind a bit more.
alternate, before removing the knuckle from either ball joint, cut the rivets jack the vehicle up under lower control arm at ball joint and hammer down upper control arm, although it now becomes harder to remove the upper from knuckle, could always remove upper and put it back.
alternate2, just hammer the old ball joint shank back and forth towards front and rear of vehicle, after removing rivets. one thing I've learned is to always have multiple plans of attack for everything and be able to quickly change direction ;)
I just keep attaching until I accomplish what I wanted. Yes I will struggle at times, and other times breeze right through projects. Everything is always rusted together always keeps it interesting
Just needed to drill those rivets deeper, and then air out the ball joint. Doing mine this weekend.
Live and learn next time I’m just pounding them straight down skipping most the other steps. Besides grinding the heads off the rivers first
Oh those are only grade 2 bolts that come with those ball joints they will break going down the road been there done that. You need to get some grade 8s
Good advice I will upgrade the bolts.
there shouldn't be that much force on them, unless something is very wrong, like the hole in control arm too large, you like curb jumping or 4x4 rock crawling.
but you may have tightened them beyond their yield point, most things have torque specs for a reason and higher grade bolts will shear off easier due to the hardness, especially when over-torqued and used with improperly applied forces ;)
or you just got the ebay $10 chinesium special :))
Timely. I'm doing uppers and lowers on my '79 Z28 tonight.
I wish I was working on a camaro. First the truck, then after I get the house in order I will get myself a toy for restoration
It was painful watching you struggle. If you had completely cut the heads off of the rivets the ball joint would have come out with very little effort. I give you credit for trying. Maybe you can find some videos to guide you on your next automotive project. Your HVAC skills are excellent and I have picked up some tips from you...thanks.
Sorry it was painful to watch me work through and figure out a good way to remove the upper joint. I thought I cut the heads off the rivets. I grinned them flat yet they also could of been stuck from all the rust. The other side after chiseling off the rivet heads opened up with the air hammer chiseling it apart. This time I needed to smash out the rivets. Which will be my approach on my next upper ball joint if any other vehicle I have has riveted in joints.
have you ever worked on vehicles in the rust belt? they don't almost repair themselves like the southern belles :))
@@throttlebottle5906 Nothing comes apart easy due to being rusted together. I remember I had to break the rim off the rotor with a sledge hammer since it was rusted together
In Haynes Manual it says to install the bolts (supplied in the ball joint kit) from the top of the control arm (2003 Chevy Cavalier, just one control arm). I thought first to install them from the bottom (how you did and it is done so in other films), but now think probably better to install them from the top (head of the bolt on top, nut - on the bottom), I think it is safer that way. Even if the nut will fall off the bolt will be there. Thank you for the idea with the Blue Threadlocker, I didn't plan to use it, but definitely will after watching this film. I'm very confused about torque specifications on those bolts. How many Ft-lbs did you use? In Haynes Manual it says: "Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the new balljoint instruction sheet". Mine doesn't have any instruction sheet. I found statement on one forum "The instructions supplied with my MOOG upper ball joints stated 12-14 ft.-lbs for the bolts and nuts." My suspension kit is not MOOG, it is OCPTY - New 8-Piece fit for 1995-2005 for Chevrolet Cavalier - 2 Front Lower Ball Joint 2 Sway Bar 2 Outer 2 Inner Tie Rod End. I think you said 10-12 Ft-lbs. Thank you for the informative film.
Grease them new ball joints well. As long as ya remember to grease them once or twice a year they should last a good long time. Clean and repack the wheel bearing and you’ll be in good shape. Do you plan to put a new set of brake pads on? Are the calipers I’m good shape still?
It’s getting new pads,rotors, caliper, brake hose, bearings. Bearings I replaced on other side yet decided to replace for this side
You need to go on youtube and watch videos on how to do this. You are doing this the hard way. You have the tools to do this correctly already. Just trying to help you.
I might have struggled somewhat yet I need an occasional ass kicking. Makes me attempt to conquer what's stopping me from succeeding. Its why I like to go outside my expertise and play with my cars. I couldn't find any good videos that most the work wasn't edited out.
@@thehvachacker This guy is the best I've seen and explains everything as he goes along. Check him out here: ua-cam.com/channels/tAGzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA.html I'm an ex-mechanic so I know he is real. Good luck and enjoy your restoration.
I like his vids. His repairs don’t always go smoothly just like a lot of my work. Where others almost seem to never have hiccups and every repair never has complications
@@thehvachacker Yes that's another reason I like his vids, he doesn't cut the bad parts out, he let's it roll and always gets the job done. Thanks for responding. I really like your videos, I just saw the Hoboken, I'm originally from Trenton, love it here in Florida.
I have a Ryobi battery grinder that shut off on over load and I'm use to it shutting off
I just got this grinder so I am learning about it. its still very useful even if it does overheat
@@thehvachacker yea even i first got mine it did it 2 i think it a safety feature becuase i neverhad a battery one only corded i was new to cordless
The corded ones have brushes. Most these battery powered tools have circuit boards which fry with too much heat
@@thehvachacker I agree with you that
11:23 - now you're cookin'!
What air hammer you using
Do you own a hammer ??
How long is this taking you?
It took several days cause I get home and if it’s too late no power tools cause neighbors sleeping
@@thehvachacker lol
Use a Dremel tool. Saves time.
Amigo tanto batallar para sacar la rótula, si al final cambio la bandeja y con ello eliminó la rótula de una.
I don't have any advice for those. They are a pain in the ass.
The other side was easier chiseling off the rivet heads. I thought grinding the heads off would be easier than chiseling. Yet if i ever need to do again I won't even try to separate with chisel. grind heads off and just chisel the rivet straight down out of ball joint.
@@thehvachacker drilling them out is best if you have an angle drill.
Wouldn't a vibrating saw with a metal cutting blade work better?
It's a small curved area, for 2 I think I tried. the inside ones .it's grinder or drill our only.
@6:37, I would had given up. Looks like a Bitch. Cordless grinder, then air chisel, than cordless grinder, then back to air chisel. Fuck that. I will use ccx a blow torch on those boots.
HAHAHAHAHAHHA
They are disposable cars not for repairing they are all in the junkyard for our safety
I will defy the disposable part. I like driving until the rust rots away the vehicle