I don't think brake fluid is corrosive to metals, I know it can dull or strip paint if left on though. Insides of my brake caliper cylinder bores are looking like brand new steel after 20 years of brake fluid exposure, and they ain't coated with anything. Just plain steel - I think it actually preserves just like oil. Perhaps it goes sour when left open to air and moisture since its hygroscopic.
Make sure you put new brake hoses on it. I haven't watched the whole video yet. If you don't and it pulls left or right on the brakes, that's the problem. The inside of the hose flakes out and works like a one way valve
@@thehvachacker anytime I ever have to do something that requires bleeding the front brakes, I always change the brake hoses if it's a vehicle that's over 10 years old. They can cause so much trouble. It's hard to notice them sometimes. Some of them will start by causing a slight drag of a brake leaving you wondering why one side wears faster than the other. It seems American made vehicles are worse.
I’m looking at the sk 386 flare wrench set. I want to replace the harbor freight ones I bought to do my brake lines during the winter with good line wrenches
those don't have the the most common failure point "middle of line" holder that rusts inside and crimps the line shut, causing delayed apply and release. still not a bad idea to replace the rubber hoses due to age :) honestly I had original hoses on many vehicles that were 30+ years old and I always hammered the brakes for testing, I'd rather test my way and know they'll fail before I need them when some stooge pulls out or I miss something with my eyes..it happens, nobody is perfect and I'd rather avoid an accident, even in a rust bucket winter beater, it's a huge hassle irregardless of vehicle age/brand.
leave the master cylinder lid on tight and the fluid leaking should slow down to a minor trickle. I normally remove caliper leaving hose connected, install new, then unhook hose from old caliper and let it trickle fluid then round/circle/button wire brush both side of brake hose end with drill. (circle brush/pattern to match the grooves for copper seal rings!), blast clean with brake cleaner and gently with air hose, while still leaking, bolt hose to new caliper with new washers leave bleeder open, then remove cap/check fluid/add. by time you do that it;s usually gravity bled and needs noting else!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I clamp-off the brake hose to prevent fluid from draining continuously. It helps a lot.
Year?
I don't think brake fluid is corrosive to metals, I know it can dull or strip paint if left on though. Insides of my brake caliper cylinder bores are looking like brand new steel after 20 years of brake fluid exposure, and they ain't coated with anything. Just plain steel - I think it actually preserves just like oil. Perhaps it goes sour when left open to air and moisture since its hygroscopic.
I heard it ruined paint and thought it could be corrosive. I was wrong, not the first or last time I will screw up
@@thehvachacker paint, yes. metal, no
Make sure you put new brake hoses on it. I haven't watched the whole video yet. If you don't and it pulls left or right on the brakes, that's the problem. The inside of the hose flakes out and works like a one way valve
I should order new hoses was going to leave yet it’s better to go new since most of the brake lines are new
@@thehvachacker anytime I ever have to do something that requires bleeding the front brakes, I always change the brake hoses if it's a vehicle that's over 10 years old. They can cause so much trouble. It's hard to notice them sometimes. Some of them will start by causing a slight drag of a brake leaving you wondering why one side wears faster than the other. It seems American made vehicles are worse.
On your recommendation new hose
@@thehvachacker I've got one going bad now. It drags for a few seconds after letting off the brakes
I’m looking at the sk 386 flare wrench set. I want to replace the harbor freight ones I bought to do my brake lines during the winter with good line wrenches
From what I can see the body looks good on that Astro, surprised not rust holes. I have seen ones in my area that have very bad paint and rust.
Yes I am trying to clean up a lot of the rust and fix this truck up
those don't have the the most common failure point "middle of line" holder that rusts inside and crimps the line shut, causing delayed apply and release. still not a bad idea to replace the rubber hoses due to age :)
honestly I had original hoses on many vehicles that were 30+ years old and I always hammered the brakes for testing, I'd rather test my way and know they'll fail before I need them when some stooge pulls out or I miss something with my eyes..it happens, nobody is perfect and I'd rather avoid an accident, even in a rust bucket winter beater, it's a huge hassle irregardless of vehicle age/brand.
No such word as "irregardless".
@@fartsmccracken1445 www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/irregardless
leave the master cylinder lid on tight and the fluid leaking should slow down to a minor trickle. I normally remove caliper leaving hose connected, install new, then unhook hose from old caliper and let it trickle fluid then round/circle/button wire brush both side of brake hose end with drill. (circle brush/pattern to match the grooves for copper seal rings!), blast clean with brake cleaner and gently with air hose, while still leaking, bolt hose to new caliper with new washers leave bleeder open, then remove cap/check fluid/add. by time you do that it;s usually gravity bled and needs noting else!