Just the video I was looking for, real shows how to use it along with the odd mistake you made and showed us how to do it correctly so a great big thank you
this is not an error with this marking of points. You select points on the layer that is highlighted, if you have it selected as invisible and you look at another layer, you won't delete anything because you won't select anything. Try scanning on a black piece of paper - it should be invisible to the scanner so you won't have to remove anything that the scanner won't scan. Turtable scans the surface on which the object is located and selects it itself, just press delete.
Thank you! I'm currently in the market for a scanner that won't break the bank, since it will just have to serve for stuff like scanning the compound curve contours of model kids (e.g., scan a car model to get the contours to model widebody extensions to be printed). Seems like this would do the trick, especially with a coat of washable color to remove the reflections interfering with the scan.
glad i came across ur sharing. i am selling my 1 week old seal lite due to all the frustrations of not getting any usable outcomes. .and what even bothers more is i got no interest even trying to get rid of it with big discount of it being something like pretty much new.. i will take it out of the box and give it a try again.. can u share some tutorials on scanning smaller objects ? like a nut,or something 2cm by 2cm ? thank u.
Yes give it another shot. I know I didn’t use fancy screen recording etc but I think you can clearly see what I was doing mouse wise as I went through the steps.
@tjones99 THANK YOU! I went ahead and bought a Seal Lite and turntable and while waiting for delivery watched some previous reviews, few of which were complementary, I started doubting my purchase. But I think you’ve driven home the point that the learning curve is steep but the device and software are very capable given practice. I’m confident that this will meet my needs eventually. Great tutorial.
@@johnprouty6583 I do t think you will be disappointed once you are over the hump. It’s getting the steps to that first successful scan that is killer. I was close to throwing in the towel a few times before my first successful scan. It’s all been improvement since then. Is it perfect? Nope. Is it as easy to use as a photocopier? Nope. But the task itself performing is complex and with a little experience it gets much easier. Oh and scanning like thousands of frames is pretty much a waste of time I find. 200-400 good frames is better than 1400 frames. A few angles with 300 frames each and a little cleanup gets you a pretty good 3D model.
@@tjones99 awesome! I have a 57 Chevy 4 door hardtop that has quite a few pieces needed that are not reproduced yet. I will scan them, clean up the STL, and have them machined, cast, or 3D printed. I also have a ton of other projects too.
@@aurktman1106 I can't stress enough how significant cleaning up the scans before alignment is... Getting rid of the base for starters... This is one area where Table Scan rocks... and my valuable lesson with table scan I learned (the hard way as usual) was the table itself has to have a recognizable pattern of depressions in it so the scan software knows what angle the table is at at all times! Cleanup is huge. I have ordered the 3DMakerPro table to see if it is better than my home made pattern. I also experimented with "dry shampoo spray" that will really help with shiny car part (shiny anything) scanning. This dry shampoo coats with a dull white finish that comes off easy... why anyone would put this on their hair is beyond me but it works for scanning. Oh and I found it very hard to align a part I was scanning that was MOSTLY symetrical... easy to confuse the align algorithm (and me in manual align) ... so I used hot glue to put a few irregular spaced blobs on the part which made it easier for alignment and MUCH easier for manual alignment (which I use a lot) and then once all are aligned and the Process stage looks great other than the hot glue bumps I just delete the bumps from the scan like you would delete noise and let the "fill gaps" take care of the removed portions and rerun the process stage.
@@tjones99 thanks for the info! I will start doing that tomorrow, going to order some dry shampoo spray now. A bunch of the parts I want to scan are chrome plated so it’s a must to dull them up.
@@tjones99thank you for the tutorial, I'm thinking about buying this to scan small parts and it really helps seeing someone using the software. Ps: dry shampoo absorb oils in your hair, then you brush it away (hopefully outside) and so it manages to give your hairs somewhat of a "clean" look... That said is mostly catered towards unwashed teenage girls xD
I'm trying (unsuccessfully) to get a top and bottom scan of an item to line up using the manual alignment feature. Have tried using the point method but the bottom scan always flips so that both scanned images are trying to be a top view (make sense?) Any help would be appreciated
I admire your perseverance - that looks tricky vs some of the others I've seen like creality and Revo. Have you had experience of any others to compare? Great tutorial by the way
That's a really good question... I don't have experience with other units so I can really say if there are better ones... Is it worth it... depends on what you are scanning I think... Lets look at the example I filmed... battery clamp... reality is that anyone decent in a CAD program like Fusion 360 or even TinkerCAD could probably get a cleaner more accurate model created in about the same time and then you have something that can easily be edited and modified... But there are lots of things like human hand, figurines and other irregular shapes that are very challenging to design in any CAD program. In those cases I think this is a great tool for the task and worth the money.
While the Seal Lite scanner has a USB-C prot on it, it appears to require special cabling to connect. It comes with a Y cable to USB-C where one part of the Y goes to your computer and one part goes to their provided power adapter. Are you using their cable and their power adapter?
Just the video I was looking for, real shows how to use it along with the odd mistake you made and showed us how to do it correctly so a great big thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Terry. You've saved me hours of messing around.
this is not an error with this marking of points. You select points on the layer that is highlighted, if you have it selected as invisible and you look at another layer, you won't delete anything because you won't select anything. Try scanning on a black piece of paper - it should be invisible to the scanner so you won't have to remove anything that the scanner won't scan.
Turtable scans the surface on which the object is located and selects it itself, just press delete.
Thank you!
I'm currently in the market for a scanner that won't break the bank, since it will just have to serve for stuff like scanning the compound curve contours of model kids (e.g., scan a car model to get the contours to model widebody extensions to be printed). Seems like this would do the trick, especially with a coat of washable color to remove the reflections interfering with the scan.
glad i came across ur sharing. i am selling my 1 week old seal lite due to all the frustrations of not getting any usable outcomes. .and what even bothers more is i got no interest even trying to get rid of it with big discount of it being something like pretty much new..
i will take it out of the box and give it a try again..
can u share some tutorials on scanning smaller objects ? like a nut,or something 2cm by 2cm ? thank u.
Great Video. I too have had a Seal for Xmas and was going to send it back seemed not fit for purpose. Maybe I will give it another go.
Yes give it another shot. I know I didn’t use fancy screen recording etc but I think you can clearly see what I was doing mouse wise as I went through the steps.
@tjones99 THANK YOU! I went ahead and bought a Seal Lite and turntable and while waiting for delivery watched some previous reviews, few of which were complementary, I started doubting my purchase. But I think you’ve driven home the point that the learning curve is steep but the device and software are very capable given practice. I’m confident that this will meet my needs eventually. Great tutorial.
@@johnprouty6583 I do t think you will be disappointed once you are over the hump. It’s getting the steps to that first successful scan that is killer. I was close to throwing in the towel a few times before my first successful scan. It’s all been improvement since then. Is it perfect? Nope. Is it as easy to use as a photocopier? Nope. But the task itself performing is complex and with a little experience it gets much easier. Oh and scanning like thousands of frames is pretty much a waste of time I find. 200-400 good frames is better than 1400 frames. A few angles with 300 frames each and a little cleanup gets you a pretty good 3D model.
I bought a Seal Lite for Christmas, I definitely need to work on how to use it.
I had serious doubts for the first two days. Then I had a few key moments. Now I am at the “this is wicked amazing” stage!!!
@@tjones99 awesome! I have a 57 Chevy 4 door hardtop that has quite a few pieces needed that are not reproduced yet. I will scan them, clean up the STL, and have them machined, cast, or 3D printed. I also have a ton of other projects too.
@@aurktman1106 I can't stress enough how significant cleaning up the scans before alignment is... Getting rid of the base for starters... This is one area where Table Scan rocks... and my valuable lesson with table scan I learned (the hard way as usual) was the table itself has to have a recognizable pattern of depressions in it so the scan software knows what angle the table is at at all times! Cleanup is huge. I have ordered the 3DMakerPro table to see if it is better than my home made pattern.
I also experimented with "dry shampoo spray" that will really help with shiny car part (shiny anything) scanning. This dry shampoo coats with a dull white finish that comes off easy... why anyone would put this on their hair is beyond me but it works for scanning.
Oh and I found it very hard to align a part I was scanning that was MOSTLY symetrical... easy to confuse the align algorithm (and me in manual align) ... so I used hot glue to put a few irregular spaced blobs on the part which made it easier for alignment and MUCH easier for manual alignment (which I use a lot) and then once all are aligned and the Process stage looks great other than the hot glue bumps I just delete the bumps from the scan like you would delete noise and let the "fill gaps" take care of the removed portions and rerun the process stage.
@@tjones99 thanks for the info! I will start doing that tomorrow, going to order some dry shampoo spray now. A bunch of the parts I want to scan are chrome plated so it’s a must to dull them up.
@@tjones99thank you for the tutorial, I'm thinking about buying this to scan small parts and it really helps seeing someone using the software. Ps: dry shampoo absorb oils in your hair, then you brush it away (hopefully outside) and so it manages to give your hairs somewhat of a "clean" look... That said is mostly catered towards unwashed teenage girls xD
I'm trying (unsuccessfully) to get a top and bottom scan of an item to line up using the manual alignment feature. Have tried using the point method but the bottom scan always flips so that both scanned images are trying to be a top view (make sense?) Any help would be appreciated
I admire your perseverance - that looks tricky vs some of the others I've seen like creality and Revo. Have you had experience of any others to compare? Great tutorial by the way
No this was my first 3D scanner other than trying a little manual photogrammetry
So with all the clean up and issues is it worth it and have you found a better unit in the same price range?
That's a really good question... I don't have experience with other units so I can really say if there are better ones...
Is it worth it... depends on what you are scanning I think... Lets look at the example I filmed... battery clamp... reality is that anyone decent in a CAD program like Fusion 360 or even TinkerCAD could probably get a cleaner more accurate model created in about the same time and then you have something that can easily be edited and modified... But there are lots of things like human hand, figurines and other irregular shapes that are very challenging to design in any CAD program. In those cases I think this is a great tool for the task and worth the money.
Have you done anymore scanning? It seems really accurate for the price. My friend sent me an inspire to try out but its not great at small detail.
Yes but primarily learning turntable operation. I haven’t tried anything really detailed yet. But I’m loving it.
hey, how do you delete the select data? I can lasso some portions but can't delete them
@@SWBoumBoum once I have points selected (they change colour) I just hit the delete key.
I can't get mine to connect to a computer (have tried 2 at this point) and haven't found any videos offering any help. So...
While the Seal Lite scanner has a USB-C prot on it, it appears to require special cabling to connect. It comes with a Y cable to USB-C where one part of the Y goes to your computer and one part goes to their provided power adapter. Are you using their cable and their power adapter?
I see where I didnt have the right cable going to the scanner, but unfortunately its still not detecting the scanner.
That was my issue. Thanks!