I recently retired from working at an automotive design studio where we used high end 3D scanners for the past 20 years. Until very recently, Sub $1,000 scanners were too crude to use at a home studio. I finally pulled the trigger and bought the Mole and Lynx from 3DMakerPro. I make clay sculptures that I can scan, then print on my PrusaMKS3+, my results were amazing! The guys at the shop were impressed how accurate the scans are and the price of the Mole and Lynx 3D scanners. The 2 machines where I worked cost over $150K each and has an expensive annual license and it takes 2 guys to operate! The Mole and Lynx scan and process quickly... okay you need a fast computer to process the scan quicker, but frankly, no matter how long it takes to process it's still a better overall system you can buy and use at your home! And yeah... you need to learn how to take advantage of these scanners by practicing and getting the use to software settings and scanning by hand. I'm building a scanning table for these scanners because I think the scans might be better yet...
Make a video please please it is so frustrating trying to get this to work! I use this for high end automotive restoration and can’t get a good scan to save my life. What an incredible tool this would be if I could get it to work! I bought the revopoint miraco and I am about to return it.
Oh, heyyy! Thanks so much for watching this video. I'd love to know what you thought of it in the comments below... Do you want to see more projects like this? (Hopefully more successful ones?)
Nice to see a video that tries to do the everyday stuff as we "plebs" struggle with. I have a RevoPoint v2 and I struggle a lot with it so to see an experianced user as yourself have both failures and successes warms my heart. As always, an informative and nice video!
For someone who was in a similar position as yourself with 3d scanners and CAD (Fusion 360 for me) I initially had the impression that I would 3d scan and then print the model without the need to use a CAD software. We are a little way off from that with these cheap commercial scanners, I have the Revopoint Pop 2 and Mini which are in the same class as the one in this video. For complex items like the Baby Stroller Clasp the expectations need to be lowered. What you can do is 3d scan the item, it will need cleaning up the 3d scanning software to remove any rouge bits and also less is more. Doing multiple passes will just create lots of additional data points which do not add anything apart from more processing time. Once you have meshed the data points the model would then need to be imported into a CAD software. From there you can create a sketch from your 3d scan so that you end up with the correct dimensions. This video explains it very well and after watching this I was able to reverse engineer parts and 3d print them. ua-cam.com/video/imGrla3b3Mo/v-deo.htmlsi=QUyB-zPy1o2SZVnH&t=487
I really liked this real world style video. Showing the actual use and problems newbies face like this was great. I can stack blocks and cylinders in tinkercad but that’s about it as far as modeling goes. Thanks for sharing your experience and perspective on the use of these scanners
I really like the editing style here, almost live stream twitch reminiscent. Real time commentary and reactivity with a small webcam in the corner mixed in with scripted edited shots is really really nice. Love seeing your progress and growth man, very inspiring!
You normally don't use the 3D scan directly if you do reverse engineering. It usually gets loaded as mesh into your CAD sw of choice as reference for reconstruction. You still need to fact check measurements etc. but heck it accelerates the process to super sonic. Especially if you have critical landmarks that are near impossible to measure with traditional means.
Engineering is hard. Funny thing is, I printed out a holder for my GF´s car because the original broke. The original was crap and I improved the design through the print. Most parts are designed to be production ready by injection molding which means you should not simply copy a design but you can almost every time improve the original design since you don´t have that design restrictions. Seeking your part as a example. Your part is way too weak, it has thin walls etc. so that it can be injection molded. Simply make it thicker.
I appreciate how you're so quick to admit you may be a factor in sub par results considering its a new product for you. I'm looking to get in to 3d printing and am mostly curious about scanning or dimension recording. It's been a while since I used Autocad like products.
I have not yet been able to try out a 3D scanner myself, but I have seen many UA-camrs despairing over this topic. Different manufacturers and price ranges were tried but the results were never satisfying. I believed that there is currently no reliable 3D scanner in the hobby sector without paying over a thousand dollars. But this scanner seems to be affordable and, after a certain period of training, to achieve relatively good results. I am curious to see how the devices for the hobby sector will develop in the future.
Scanning can be frustrating, but I’ve found that if the part is a difficult colour, ie Black, Clear, reflective and broken, you can just paint it with a suitable colour of primer. Since you’re not going to continue using the broken part and It’s much cheaper than sublimation spray.
Good video, I appreciate you showing hurdles and victories for a realistic outlook. This was also eye opening for me on the learning curve of scanning, just like any new hobby/skill it takes some practice to fully utilize it as the user imagines before owning. Thanks for sharing
What is your opinion on the changes to terms and conditions of Bambu Labs? Is it true all the hype that will make the printer not work with third party apps?
Hi, the scan may be crappy but can you pull the dimensions off of it to see what is missing in YOURS. Or lay it over yours or or or? You probably are missing one measurement or something , your work looks good.
Is it as good as the einstar ? I’m looking for a new 3d scanner and so far einstar seems to be the only one giving good accurate results for the money.
Thanks for this controller stand, it looks amazing! By any chance, is the scanned controller mesh publicly available somewhere? I want to make my first 3d printable by doing a handgrip for an handled console 😁
I have the Mole scanner and was getting mixed results. Then I realized it was 100% user error and after watching so videos on the UA-cams and voila! A pretty good working scanner.
Nice Video, i am at the same point with my Shining Scanner. I can get out good scanmodels and print them out. But i struggle a lot with technical parts, when i try to reverse Engeneer them with free Software. Maybe you can do once a video about this topic to help.
Have you try the inspire from revopoint? I'm really curious about the perform between these 2 for purchase one for start scanning and reverse engineering
I came here after watching a review of the openscan mini, and I gotta say, the openscan mini appears to be 100x better than the scanners showcased here
Fantastic that the scanner even picked up your hair, since you turned the brightness down to 2. Maby you should try a higher setting when scanning black surfaces, and save some spray ;)
Id try to scan it longer and manually by hand. Make sure your going back over the same spots multiple times. I think that's your problem. I also think your going about this all wrong. If the clap is broken, bondo and sand it until perfectly the shape it should be, then cast in silicone and reproduce out of a flexible resin.
@@thenextlayerYes, a good and uniform illumination of your model is essential for a good scan. Additionally, you should apply the spray sufficiently and evenly, avoiding any sparing.
You mentioned that there were some useful tutorials that you found helpful for scanning better. I'd appreciate it if you could drop links for them to help us all out as well.
I noticed in the upper right you don’t have noise filtering checked when you process and simplification helps too. Check those two and your process result won’t have all those artifacts…
I reviewed the CR Scan Lizard and the RevoPop2 and it will be many years before I review another 3D scanner. What they don't tell you is that the software sucks, you have to already know a lot about 3D models and repairing/editing them, and that for functional prints, it's really hard to get a flat/square base surface. There's a reason the good 3D scanners cost $20k.
Suggestion: Compare the time/cost it takes you to design a 'duplicate'/replacement part for a non-trivial item, and doing the same with your scanner as a 'starting point', and one of the 3d printer 'contract makers' that you take some pictures and dimensions and let them send you a STL file. For a oneoff critical part it would be interesting to compare these methods to be able to put a money value on your time, (and include the cost of the scanner, even though that should be amotorized over a number of parts so it is a 'longer term' investment rather than a single part expense), and the cost of having a contractor over the internet do it for you.
I never directly replicate a broken part, because it failed. I always redesign it, re-engineer it stronger, optimize the print layering, maybe even embed steel into it or fiberglass over it if needed.
I know it was an ad read but you don’t need multi-color prints. You need a model that’s setup for it and then you just use pause at layer height and change the filament manually when it pauses. It’s pretty easy actually.
i know badic cad but as a business i need to pay to much for basic things you can even do on tinkercad cause most my aluminium cnc machining isent so hard I want a scanner to scan motorcycles and create aftermarket parts
Maybe im not the best example cause I know your basicly right but i designed a 4th axis cnc in my head and built it in 2 weeks just creating fast dxf fikes while the assembly was in my head 😅
Do you have a newer iPhone? It’d be cool to see the Polycam app reviewed (can slow load for free) apparently the iPhones LiDAR is good but yea. Maybe same quality
Another great video, you answered most of my questions on these new scanners. The only question I have left is, does it scan people? It would be good for scanning someone for custom cosplay projects. Off-topic, any idea on how to get my Modix's second hot end to stop randomly hitting the print?
@@thenextlayer Maybe you can try to test it and show what it looks like. Face sculpting is quite difficult. If this device can scan the head nicely and cleanly, we can make cool mini figures with real heads :)
Hey man! I know your busy, but if you have a chance can you please reply and help me out. I semi recently got a new 3d printer, and have enjoyed printing things out from printables and thingiverse, but i want do design some things of my own. I'm looking for a free simple, yet capable software that I can install on a windows computer. I started with tinker ad, but it *really* limits you on customixability. Any recommendations? Just some beginner-intermediate free software. Love your channel BTW!
sounds more like user error than anything, especially after the line 'I don't know how to turn on the IR, so i wont do that' and instead of learning how to do it do something else. TBH, doesn't feel that much engeenery to me
@@thenextlayer interesting. I thought it would scan better, but if it's supposed to be moving I would think it's better since you could point at hard to see places
I think some of the information here is inaccurate. You are trying to go straight to print with a sub- 1K$ 3D scanner. This is way too much to ask from any 3D scanner ;especially the consumer kind. I use a 80K $ Faro arm at work , and we STILL have to reverse engineer our scan data to come up with functional prints. At this point in time you simply cannot get away from reverse engineering point clouds or meshes, before you print them.
Just bought a 0,01mm accuracy scanner. Tried to scan some 28mm miniatures and bigger scale dragonsand the results were simple: a complete disaster like the results in this video. Already writing a message to the company so I get a refund.
One, 3d scanners have issues with picking up reflections, you may not see them but the scanner will pick them up easily. 2. using a turn table is awful for 3d scanners it changes the shadows of the object while its turning, causing more artifacts. this is the main reasons i dont use scanners. 3. You are better off with using Photogrametry, Taking lots of photos of the object in 360 degrees working your way from the top of the object down to the bottome of the object, moving yourself around the object not the object rotating on the turn table. The more photos you get the better your model will be. Another way to get a better 3d object is to put the object on top of a small stick with a small amount of tacky gum, or hot glue to hold in place this can be removed easily in the 3d editor. Or you can hang the object in the air with a small piece of thread with the black back ground which will reduce shadowing, this will give you the best results. Photogrametry can give you much better results with more detail.
Too bad that you skipped details of scanning and software usage failures - that was most interesting part actually. Also this video could be just left waiting for next week with full print with all colours done by that time.
nice video. Those guys need to spend more money developing their software rather then sticking the same sensors in different bodies. I have their "top of the line" whale scanner and its great for the $800 i paid on the kickstarter but it will never do their so called advertised .05mm accuracy. I have an Artec Spider and Eva and those are real scanners. 7 years old and they dance all over that thing. Ya ya ok they cost 45k new but now on the used market they are a great buy compared for 8k for the whale. The reason Artec software is $1500 a year is because it works perfectly. Anyhow good luck with it.
Scanning engineering parts mostly does not make any sense. You are way faster simply redesigning it. It´s mostly simple shapes anyways. Scanning is great for trees and big buildings with nice textures etc. The statue is a perfect example, this is a sentemental piece which should be scanned. For all you fellow cheapos doing this as a hobby simply use photogrammetry, it can take longer but the results quality wise are even better than those scanners.
I recently retired from working at an automotive design studio where we used high end 3D scanners for the past 20 years. Until very recently, Sub $1,000 scanners were too crude to use at a home studio. I finally pulled the trigger and bought the Mole and Lynx from 3DMakerPro. I make clay sculptures that I can scan, then print on my PrusaMKS3+, my results were amazing! The guys at the shop were impressed how accurate the scans are and the price of the Mole and Lynx 3D scanners. The 2 machines where I worked cost over $150K each and has an expensive annual license and it takes 2 guys to operate! The Mole and Lynx scan and process quickly... okay you need a fast computer to process the scan quicker, but frankly, no matter how long it takes to process it's still a better overall system you can buy and use at your home! And yeah... you need to learn how to take advantage of these scanners by practicing and getting the use to software settings and scanning by hand. I'm building a scanning table for these scanners because I think the scans might be better yet...
Make a video please please it is so frustrating trying to get this to work! I use this for high end automotive restoration and can’t get a good scan to save my life. What an incredible tool this would be if I could get it to work! I bought the revopoint miraco and I am about to return it.
Make a vid,! So cool
*doubt*
Oh, heyyy! Thanks so much for watching this video. I'd love to know what you thought of it in the comments below... Do you want to see more projects like this? (Hopefully more successful ones?)
Honestly, i prefer product reviews, timelapses, etc. As your other content :D
I liked it. Project videos like this show what the products could or can’t do.
Also, audio cut out at the very end.
This was a cool watch, curious how applicable this would be with a 3D scanning iOS app like polycam 🤔
Nice to see a video that tries to do the everyday stuff as we "plebs" struggle with. I have a RevoPoint v2 and I struggle a lot with it so to see an experianced user as yourself have both failures and successes warms my heart. As always, an informative and nice video!
Thanks for the kind words. I thought this video might bomb, but it's good to see that people enjoy a project video even if it's not a HUGE success
For someone who was in a similar position as yourself with 3d scanners and CAD (Fusion 360 for me) I initially had the impression that I would 3d scan and then print the model without the need to use a CAD software. We are a little way off from that with these cheap commercial scanners, I have the Revopoint Pop 2 and Mini which are in the same class as the one in this video.
For complex items like the Baby Stroller Clasp the expectations need to be lowered. What you can do is 3d scan the item, it will need cleaning up the 3d scanning software to remove any rouge bits and also less is more. Doing multiple passes will just create lots of additional data points which do not add anything apart from more processing time. Once you have meshed the data points the model would then need to be imported into a CAD software. From there you can create a sketch from your 3d scan so that you end up with the correct dimensions. This video explains it very well and after watching this I was able to reverse engineer parts and 3d print them. ua-cam.com/video/imGrla3b3Mo/v-deo.htmlsi=QUyB-zPy1o2SZVnH&t=487
I really liked this real world style video. Showing the actual use and problems newbies face like this was great. I can stack blocks and cylinders in tinkercad but that’s about it as far as modeling goes. Thanks for sharing your experience and perspective on the use of these scanners
Wow, I'm so glad. I was worried this video would bomb!
I really like the editing style here, almost live stream twitch reminiscent. Real time commentary and reactivity with a small webcam in the corner mixed in with scripted edited shots is really really nice. Love seeing your progress and growth man, very inspiring!
You normally don't use the 3D scan directly if you do reverse engineering.
It usually gets loaded as mesh into your CAD sw of choice as reference for reconstruction.
You still need to fact check measurements etc. but heck it accelerates the process to super sonic.
Especially if you have critical landmarks that are near impossible to measure with traditional means.
Engineering is hard. Funny thing is, I printed out a holder for my GF´s car because the original broke. The original was crap and I improved the design through the print. Most parts are designed to be production ready by injection molding which means you should not simply copy a design but you can almost every time improve the original design since you don´t have that design restrictions.
Seeking your part as a example. Your part is way too weak, it has thin walls etc. so that it can be injection molded. Simply make it thicker.
This!
I appreciate how you're so quick to admit you may be a factor in sub par results considering its a new product for you. I'm looking to get in to 3d printing and am mostly curious about scanning or dimension recording. It's been a while since I used Autocad like products.
This isn’t the best scanner I’ve used at all.
@thenextlayer I would assume so, I know scanning technology is FAR beyond what these budget units do but ya boy is on a budget 🤣
@@thenextlayer what do you think my odds are at being successful with a set of calipers? Lol
I have not yet been able to try out a 3D scanner myself, but I have seen many UA-camrs despairing over this topic. Different manufacturers and price ranges were tried but the results were never satisfying. I believed that there is currently no reliable 3D scanner in the hobby sector without paying over a thousand dollars. But this scanner seems to be affordable and, after a certain period of training, to achieve relatively good results. I am curious to see how the devices for the hobby sector will develop in the future.
This is the best one I’ve used I think
Scanning can be frustrating, but I’ve found that if the part is a difficult colour, ie Black, Clear, reflective and broken, you can just paint it with a suitable colour of primer. Since you’re not going to continue using the broken part and It’s much cheaper than sublimation spray.
Good video, I appreciate you showing hurdles and victories for a realistic outlook. This was also eye opening for me on the learning curve of scanning, just like any new hobby/skill it takes some practice to fully utilize it as the user imagines before owning. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video!
Love the format. Thanks for showing us from start to finish!
This hobby keeps getting more and more exciting! great video (slight audio issue in the closing few seconds)
Sorry about that
@@thenextlayer not a criticism, cheers!
What is your opinion on the changes to terms and conditions of Bambu Labs? Is it true all the hype that will make the printer not work with third party apps?
Could you try photogrammetry on the first part ?
Hi, the scan may be crappy but can you pull the dimensions off of it to see what is missing in YOURS. Or lay it over yours or or or? You probably are missing one measurement or something , your work looks good.
Is it as good as the einstar ? I’m looking for a new 3d scanner and so far einstar seems to be the only one giving good accurate results for the money.
Thanks for this controller stand, it looks amazing!
By any chance, is the scanned controller mesh publicly available somewhere? I want to make my first 3d printable by doing a handgrip for an handled console 😁
I have the Mole scanner and was getting mixed results. Then I realized it was 100% user error and after watching so videos on the UA-cams and voila! A pretty good working scanner.
Same thing happened to me hahaha
Hello. Ferret, POP3 or Mole? WHat do you think have more detail and Accuracy. Thank you so much for the video.
Nice Video, i am at the same point with my Shining Scanner. I can get out good scanmodels and print them out. But i struggle a lot with technical parts, when i try to reverse Engeneer them with free Software. Maybe you can do once a video about this topic to help.
Have you try the inspire from revopoint? I'm really curious about the perform between these 2 for purchase one for start scanning and reverse engineering
Hey, how do you think this compares to some of the Revopoint scanners? Like Inspire or POP 2
I came here after watching a review of the openscan mini, and I gotta say, the openscan mini appears to be 100x better than the scanners showcased here
Fantastic that the scanner even picked up your hair, since you turned the brightness down to 2. Maby you should try a higher setting when scanning black surfaces, and save some spray ;)
Couldn't you spray paint the black part to take the color out of the variables?
Id try to scan it longer and manually by hand. Make sure your going back over the same spots multiple times. I think that's your problem. I also think your going about this all wrong. If the clap is broken, bondo and sand it until perfectly the shape it should be, then cast in silicone and reproduce out of a flexible resin.
Yes, while scanning, you want good lighting.
I had no idea... hmm, thanks
@@thenextlayerYes, a good and uniform illumination of your model is essential for a good scan. Additionally, you should apply the spray sufficiently and evenly, avoiding any sparing.
You mentioned that there were some useful tutorials that you found helpful for scanning better. I'd appreciate it if you could drop links for them to help us all out as well.
They’re on 3DMP’s site jle.vi/3Dmakerpro
I noticed in the upper right you don’t have noise filtering checked when you process and simplification helps too. Check those two and your process result won’t have all those artifacts…
Oh snap thank you.
I reviewed the CR Scan Lizard and the RevoPop2 and it will be many years before I review another 3D scanner. What they don't tell you is that the software sucks, you have to already know a lot about 3D models and repairing/editing them, and that for functional prints, it's really hard to get a flat/square base surface. There's a reason the good 3D scanners cost $20k.
This one honestly wasn't terrible. Look at the results on that statue... incredible!
Suggestion: Compare the time/cost it takes you to design a 'duplicate'/replacement part for a non-trivial item, and doing the same with your scanner as a 'starting point', and one of the 3d printer 'contract makers' that you take some pictures and dimensions and let them send you a STL file.
For a oneoff critical part it would be interesting to compare these methods to be able to put a money value on your time, (and include the cost of the scanner, even though that should be amotorized over a number of parts so it is a 'longer term' investment rather than a single part expense), and the cost of having a contractor over the internet do it for you.
Great idea!
I never directly replicate a broken part, because it failed. I always redesign it, re-engineer it stronger, optimize the print layering, maybe even embed steel into it or fiberglass over it if needed.
I know it was an ad read but you don’t need multi-color prints. You need a model that’s setup for it and then you just use pause at layer height and change the filament manually when it pauses. It’s pretty easy actually.
That's true, but if you want to really "wow" (like that spiderman), dual-extrusion filament really helps!
@@thenextlayer 100%
Surely that only works if the whole layer is the same colour? Which wasn't the case with this model.
@@wolfiebo2209 that’s why I said the model needs to be “set up for it”
You need a metrology grade scanner.
Try the Revopoint scanners
I have
Interesting vid ive been thinking of getting the creality ferret it looks good in reviews but im still thinking about it
I wouldn’t buy a 3D scanner. Just learn CAD
i know badic cad but as a business i need to pay to much for basic things you can even do on tinkercad cause most my aluminium cnc machining isent so hard
I want a scanner to scan motorcycles and create aftermarket parts
Maybe im not the best example cause I know your basicly right but i designed a 4th axis cnc in my head and built it in 2 weeks just creating fast dxf fikes while the assembly was in my head 😅
Do you have a newer iPhone? It’d be cool to see the Polycam app reviewed (can slow load for free) apparently the iPhones LiDAR is good but yea. Maybe same quality
I’ve never had luck with polygamy. Or polycam
Arducam sells 60mp cameras and these 3D scanners use 5mp cameras. It is really frustrating to see that the technology is here but nobody is using it.
Another great video, you answered most of my questions on these new scanners. The only question I have left is, does it scan people? It would be good for scanning someone for custom cosplay projects. Off-topic, any idea on how to get my Modix's second hot end to stop randomly hitting the print?
Hey! So, they have bigger scanners designed for bigger things like people. Check out their site they have tons of scanners: jle.vi/3dmakerpro
You should try reality Capture and just use a camera, or even video.
Can it scan a head with face ?
Probably :)
@@thenextlayer Maybe you can try to test it and show what it looks like. Face sculpting is quite difficult. If this device can scan the head nicely and cleanly, we can make cool mini figures with real heads :)
While doing the scan, you might be getting some light reflection.
Hey man! I know your busy, but if you have a chance can you please reply and help me out. I semi recently got a new 3d printer, and have enjoyed printing things out from printables and thingiverse, but i want do design some things of my own. I'm looking for a free simple, yet capable software that I can install on a windows computer. I started with tinker ad, but it *really* limits you on customixability. Any recommendations? Just some beginner-intermediate free software. Love your channel BTW!
Would you be able to do a video on the new Bambu Lab software update?
I’ve thought about it but my content is planned for the next like… month or more
sounds more like user error than anything, especially after the line 'I don't know how to turn on the IR, so i wont do that' and instead of learning how to do it do something else. TBH, doesn't feel that much engeenery to me
I love how you casually mentioned that you broke your wife’s arm 😂
Luckily only on the model 😂
Man, it sure is lame that you have to spray paint your items before it can scan them correctly
I think the scanner requires a tripod to work well
Nope this one has handheld one
@@thenextlayer interesting. I thought it would scan better, but if it's supposed to be moving I would think it's better since you could point at hard to see places
My Sony Xperia XZ1 scans better than these scanners.
Although I must admit, the model of you and your wife came out excellent.
I think some of the information here is inaccurate. You are trying to go straight to print with a sub- 1K$ 3D scanner. This is way too much to ask from any 3D scanner ;especially the consumer kind. I use a 80K $ Faro arm at work , and we STILL have to reverse engineer our scan data to come up with functional prints. At this point in time you simply cannot get away from reverse engineering point clouds or meshes, before you print them.
Yep. True. Should’ve specified that this is about consumer scanners
Just bought a 0,01mm accuracy scanner. Tried to scan some 28mm miniatures and bigger scale dragonsand the results were simple: a complete disaster like the results in this video. Already writing a message to the company so I get a refund.
You know that the last 20 seconds the sound is not there?
Yes, I put it in a title on there... mic cut out lol
One, 3d scanners have issues with picking up reflections, you may not see them but the scanner will pick them up easily. 2. using a turn table is awful for 3d scanners it changes the shadows of the object while its turning, causing more artifacts. this is the main reasons i dont use scanners. 3. You are better off with using Photogrametry, Taking lots of photos of the object in 360 degrees working your way from the top of the object down to the bottome of the object, moving yourself around the object not the object rotating on the turn table. The more photos you get the better your model will be. Another way to get a better 3d object is to put the object on top of a small stick with a small amount of tacky gum, or hot glue to hold in place this can be removed easily in the 3d editor. Or you can hang the object in the air with a small piece of thread with the black back ground which will reduce shadowing, this will give you the best results. Photogrametry can give you much better results with more detail.
Thanks! I have never had luck with photogrammetry but it must be my skill level
creality Otter or low cost ferret pro is better than the mole
Dry shampoo spray is about 1000X cheaper than the spray you are using, and it works fine.
...though it smells bad :)
Too bad that you skipped details of scanning and software usage failures - that was most interesting part actually. Also this video could be just left waiting for next week with full print with all colours done by that time.
Interesting. I cut a lot of that but good to know. Also I can’t postpone videos, sponsors want specific dates
Mist your black objects with white spray paint. Hmmmm???
nice video. Those guys need to spend more money developing their software rather then sticking the same sensors in different bodies. I have their "top of the line" whale scanner and its great for the $800 i paid on the kickstarter but it will never do their so called advertised .05mm accuracy. I have an Artec Spider and Eva and those are real scanners. 7 years old and they dance all over that thing. Ya ya ok they cost 45k new but now on the used market they are a great buy compared for 8k for the whale. The reason Artec software is $1500 a year is because it works perfectly. Anyhow good luck with it.
title "Don't Buy...", review "This is a great product!" -_-
Wrong tool for the wrong job. You’re trying to use a cheap scanner for a mechanical part. You’re going to need a better scanner.
Scanning engineering parts mostly does not make any sense. You are way faster simply redesigning it. It´s mostly simple shapes anyways. Scanning is great for trees and big buildings with nice textures etc. The statue is a perfect example, this is a sentemental piece which should be scanned.
For all you fellow cheapos doing this as a hobby simply use photogrammetry, it can take longer but the results quality wise are even better than those scanners.
that moment he made her a blonde
very bad 3d scanner there are better