Wow, it looks like someone has dumped a load of stop leak in the cooling system to keep it going and then got rid of it before it totally failed. Looks like it was previously owned by a complete hack. The new owner has ended up with a real lemon.
I didn’t even think about it until I read this comment- that’s EXACTLY what that crap looks like. The ole Bars Leak. Every single (gasoline) engine I’ve ever seen that crap dumped into, ends up with coolant lines looking like that.
Stop leak was my thought too... Man I feel for this owner... I've been in his shoes, buying somebody else's problem... I hope you get to rebuild it Josh!
The most discouraging thing to me when dismantling something is seeing a crap ton of RTV/silicone. That’s a sure fire sign It’s had a hack working on it
The $#!t ton of Silly-Con anywhere on an engine is a sure sign Mr Dumb-@$$ Pliers has worked on it especially when you find bolts that don’t belong in the engine.
@@big_ute I got my arm opened up like a filet trout from some @$$#0le that used diagonal cutters instead of flush cuts. I know where Kevlar arm sleeves doing dash work or the first time I see a non factory tye-wraps. I got 18 stitches and the doctor who stitched me up in the ER told me I was lucky compared to another mechanic who also got his arm opened up from the middle of his bicep to his wrist. He said the mechanic shoved his arm into a tight space in the engine bay and “got it stuck” and jerked it out. The end result was muscles cut a vein nicked and long gash that took the better part of a night to stitch up according to the doctor.
@@gullreefclub lol I’ve had some fucked up zipties but wtf 😂😂 I cute mine straight but not flush bc zipties eventually will vibrate loose a tiny bit and I leave a small tag line so when it does it’s still ziptied and doesn’t just pop away and you loose your ziptie
Can't believe that truck could even crank with battery cables like that. We have 4 batteries in our trucks and we have had ONE SINGLE bad ground wire prevent it from cranking over with fully charged batteries... crazy. Thanks for sharing Josh, hope to see more of this!
Topping up the coolent with hard water every morning will do that to an engine and radiator. The water boils off leaving calcium and crap behind. I'm liking these lastest videos where you are looking for faults and remedies in customer's trucks.
That radiator sealant in a bottle is nasty, about the only way to get it out is to boil the dismantled parts and shoot boiling cleaner through the ports and gulleys. It is nasty stuff. She is ready for a full rebuild, probably not what the owner wanted to see. Another educational video, thank you Sir. Stay safe and healthy.
Or do a dip in a hot water tank the block. My thought on a inframe is only good to do when you don't have a problem like the cooling system ports/ galleries. I personally would pull it yes it's more time but kitty kitties are a good engine so why not do it thoroughly .
Yeah it all needs to be taken apart to bare castings and hot tanked basically. Only sure fire way to make sure all the bars leak or whatever stop leak and deposits are gone. Really unfortunate, I hate seeing people getting screwed by hacks and crooks. Seen it way too much in this industry over the last 25 years or so, and it has gotten worse from what I've seen. Real shame.
I wanted to be a diesel mechanic when I was in high school. Ended up joining the Air Force and became an aircraft mechanic instead. Never know where the road will take you sometimes.
Once I saw the way those batteries were configured, it spoke everything about the maintenance program (or lack of) that the previous owner had. All of that mud/gunk in the coolant system sure looks like radiator stop leak additive as well as electrolysis. The problem at this point, any minor repairs made to try to keep it limping down the road is just putting lipstick on a pig. I love troubleshooting videos like this though, so thanks for posting!
I'm a John Deere C&F mechanic, I get a lot of engine stuff out in the field. Best thing I've ever use for broken manifold studs is this special welding rod called x-tractalloy. The flux stops the weld from sticking to the threads, the heat frees up the stud, weld a nut to the end. Best shit ever.
The mud in the block is block seal. We have two trucks with cats that the whole system looks the same way. My buddy who owns them used it and learned why you shouldn't afterwards. It's been over 8 years many coolant changes even a rebuild on each motor you can't get rid of the block seal once it's been put in the motor
@@AdeptApe we've changed the piping, raditors, even the thermostat housing on one of the trucks it still coats everything in a thin layer of brown. Whether it causes premature liner damage we have no clue but everything seems OK. As far as trying to remove it goes nothing works except chipping it out which isn't worth the trouble
@@AdeptApe that stuff is terrible. I grew up extremely poor, and virtually every vehicle we owned used it at one time or another. Seen that same crap in every single one come time to flush….
that's rough black used oil is full of junk that will clog the fuel filters unless they send it trough a filter while adding it to the tank id use actual dye to mask red diesel
i worked on a companys trucks that use to filter and blend in used engine oil. didnt seem to cause any issues they all got there milage (all cat by the way)
So just found your channel today from a lucky UA-cam recommendation. Been binge watching your videos and man it’s been awesome! Incredible detail and your great at helping us understand what’s going on. Really enjoying your amazing work. Thank you!
I had a NTC CUMMINS that Pittsburg power built to 550 hp . Every year I would drain the coolant then fill it with tap water and add cascade dishwasher soap and run it at idle for about an 3 hours . After removing the bottom hose and rinsing the engine out good I filled it with 5 gallons of distilled water 2 bottles of the additive,and 5 gallons of coolant .At 1.5 million we rebuilt the engine and the mechanics were amazed at the liners there wasn’t a single pit on any of them in fact the mechanic wanted to put new rings in and reuse them . Preventative maintenance goes a long way to get longevity out of a Diesel engine. We also used synthetic oil regularly changed every 22,000 miles with wix xe filters .
Looks like reman time. I put a one way flow valve in one last week on the suction side and it helped. The coolant by pass hose I like to use a 7E0759 instead of the 9Y4104. It is longer and cheaper. The glue between the cylinder block and front plate is sort of the old recall service letter. PS5290, PS5291, PS5292. When Cat wanted to put epoxy over the leak and try to seal it in. When the 5EK's first came out the fuel flow was as you described. Then the aluminium piston's started failing. So new software came out and the fuel flow was reversed from ECM to front of head and returned out the rear. I have swapped out broken EUI springs when the customer can't afford a new EUI or putting a new one in with a bunch of worn out ones causing a cylinder to fire harder then the rest. He also needs a low coolant sensor, did not see one in that radiator that is junk. Never seen head bolts bubble, new one on me. Glad you got it, and not me. Ever do a high speed five cylinder cut out test?
I'm going to have to write that coolant hose number down. I used the C15 one once, well I ordered it, then realized they are bigger. Oops. A wealth of knowledge as usual. I found something new to you! Finally! I have done manual 5 cylinder cut out tests usual at 1000 rpm. The little C7 won't run on 1 cylinder, but the 3400 engines will.
@@AdeptApe I data log, get engine around 190f, run at TEL. Kill five cylinders and see how many RPM's that cylinder will hold. By doing so your giving full rack to that EUI. No fan, no A/C, no air compressor. Also when I start, take out 6 thru 2 first. Then kill one and fire it back real quick. I want to see if it can pull it back up. Then kill one and fire two and so forth. Hold each point one minute. Taking notes on RPM's each cylinder is holding. If I see one or so lower I go back to that cylinder(S) again to see if the reading is holding true. Anything over 100 RPM's I am concern. Anything over 200 RPM's, Houston we have a problem. I also try and talk the customer in putting the 6NZ style lines across the front of the head for fuel and air compressor if I can. Have to do some modification, but in the long run last longer.
Love my Airlift...thanks for recommending it. Good advice that the cooling system in a diesel deserves regular proper maintenance and the consequences of ignoring it. Cavitation is real and destructive.
Agree with the comments about some sort of 'stop-leak' in the cooling system. In addition, I've seen similar buildup/corrosion in a couple locomotives where they were running straight untreated water from questionable sources (one unit had about 25% of the radiator entirely blocked off by sludge buildup).
Serious lack of schedule maintenance. Especially the cooling system. That gunk I have seen on engines using a coolant filter with additive. Over concentrating the nitrite additive.
Cavitation from coolant side of liner when cylinder fires it creates a shock wave causes cavitation . Also block heater electrolysis we had a Cummins get holes through from block heater electrolysis since payloader was plugged in all winter for snow removal .
So if i understand correctly its possible that the block and the head is fine, right? I wonder what would a CO2 coolant test show before the head was pulled.
My dad's 2006 Kenworth W900 has over 1.6 or 1.7 million miles on it. Somewhere between 1.6 and 2 million I remember when I last checked. Just 1 million is nothing to his truck. Right now the company he works for is about to go bankrupt, the owner has millions but won't take any of his money out of his account and put it in the company's.
The owner is smart honestly, unfortunately your dad will be the one to suffer, but the way America is going it’s basically over. Everyone needs to hold on to any cash they have. Diesel is going to be insane by Christmas well over $10 a gallon. It will collapse America in a way never seen.
@@yeahok115sure Maybe unrelated however here in Ireland fuel prices are through the roof as is electricity. We are in recession again and 2023 looks extremly bleak. Watch your dollars guys. Recession coming your way.
I love Detroit.. I have a 3406B mechanical cat .. but by the time u finish watching this guy videos he will turn me into cat mechanic .. love your videos..and your honesty
Pretty engine awesome Josh. Such a treasure of destruction. Perfect for showing all the things engines of many miles have. Complete rebuild and paint will be great for a next million miles. Hopefully customer does it. Cheers Josh 👍💪🍻
My favorite mechanic! And this is even though this as I own a Toyota and a Freightliner with a Cummins 14! I'm so glad the William Tell Overture is back! I am very puzzled how the coolant to be so unaffected when everything else in the pulley system seems so affected by us large
That looks like a complete rebuild, or trip to the scrap yard for that engine. Only time I ever seen an engine that looked like that, was on a 1 ton that came out of the west Texas oil fields that they had been dumping crude oil into. But that was a gasoline engine oil galley, not the cooling system. Yet I seam to remember a 1972 Ford F-100 that had a cooling system that looked looked similar, but someone had tried to fix a cooling leak with raw eggs.
Unless the factory service manual calls for silicone sealant, I do not use it. Static elastomer gaskets and O-rings do not normally need anything to "help" them seal. Occasionally, a FSM will require a SMALL bead of silicone at the corners of a gasket or where two separate ones meet, but that is about it in my experience. If I have a paper or composite gasket and I need it to stay put on a vertical surface during reassembly, a little Hylomar Blue works.
That brown coolant goo looks very familiar. It looks just like when someone uses those head-gasket-in-a-bottle type chemicals. They rarely work but they do leave a hell of a mess for the next guy
oh, and btw...could the dark fuel be caused by trying to use some slightly "nefarious" fuels? I.e. old motor oil and such? The lack of fucks given on everything else made me think they were trying to squeeze every penny out of that thing before they dumped it on someone else
I have this engine for my shop class right now, I have the pistons out and the cylinder head sitting on tables right now. So excited to see you talk about it😅❤
As like the rest of your video's, Very interesting!! Be nice that the customer want to rebuild it, like to see that #6 Sleeve from the water jacket side!! Thanks for taking the time to record and share!!
Excellent video, I had a Cat 5EK engine in my 1994 Peterbilt, it was one of the first 10,000 EK's built. I had no trouble with it but Cat put a new camshaft in it free of charge, they say said Cat had trouble with the 1st EK's cams. I put 780,000 miles on it before it starting getting water in the oil. Had it overhauled & while tearing down they came to find out the deck was out of spec. so the engine had to betaken out of truck, as long as out they checked my crankshaft & it had a crack in it. New crank had to be put in it, but I would have had a complete overhaul done on that engine with a crank that surely would have broke at some point and we never would have found it if the deck would have passed specs. Costs a lost more than planned but still better to find the cracked crank ahead of it breaking. That very same motor is running daily since the out of frame overhaul & has another 600,000 miles on it. Those E models don't get the credit they have coming in my view. It's all about the C15 and the 6NZ.
I recently found silicone used on a fuel fitting on a DD15 head. It was the return line but still someone used silicone instead of the o-ring. It mildly infuriated me.
The number 6 cylinder/sleeve wall reminded me of something that I saw in my dad's 1973 Oldsmobile Omega Rocket 350 Rocket engine (gasoline). The engine started overheating in 1998. Pop had a hydrocarbon test in the cooling system. Pops replaced the cylinder heads. The need for new heads was surprising because his grandpa had the engine completely rebuilt about 30,000 miles prior to the overheat problem. This didn't eliminate the presence of hydrocarbons in the engine coolant. We had the heads pulled and inspected the cylinder walls. We found a line in one of the cylinders near a water jacket. The reason I mention my dad's experience is the fact that we found the cylinder to be just as smooth and physically undetectable (to the touch) as that which you found in your customer's cat engine. #AdeptApe
The company I worked for regularly used sno- bowl to clean out the cooling system. Not sure if this is a good thing or not but this was the 70’s and we’re talking two stroke Detroits.
Good diagnostic skills , white smoke usually always low compression , dribbling injectors , un-burnt fuel. That was so close to going up in flames. People underestimate the problems loose batteries can cause. Trucks reach a point at that million mile mark where everything wears out. "Bin" it my advice , just gonna be a great big money pit for the owner, it will never end (repairs)
Pretty damn impressive honestly! It’s obvious at some point previous owner said screw dumping money into it if it doesn’t NEED it, it’s closing in on 1 million miles anyhow.
I'm mechanical engineer at a railroad repair facility and we discover such sludge very often on neglected engines. As some of our client accept to pay the price for regular oil and coolant analysis, we have discovered that such engines even after flushing the cooling system and putting fresh coolant, within next two months, coolant was bad (coolant was still preventing the even from freezing but wasn't protection from corrosion at all!!!). The chemist from the company that does oil and water analyses for us explained that it's silicate coming from coolant that got way too old. This creates a thermal barrier and your cooling system become way less effective. He advises us the rinse such engine with soda and let the engine warm with it, cool down for two hours, rinse with clear water, flush again before filling with fresh coolant. This process worked great, and we could see a real difference with engine temperature and analysis are way better. To reduce the risk of such sludge to appear, we now ask our client to use silicate free coolant (but that's way more expensive and they don't always agree).
Hope the customer has the money to fix it since it would make a great video. Unfortunately most in this situation will have the truck parked in the lot for a months before it finally gets towed out never to be seen again.
This is why you should take it to a mechanic for inspection. Before buying something. Bought a worn-out truck. Once you get done with engine. Then clutch and transmission problems then rear-ends.
Electrolysis would lead to the symptom in the number 6 liner. Especially after seeing the battery situation. Those engines really need to be grounded properly and checked often. I’ve seen a lot of problems just with electrolysis over the years. It’s not talked about enough. Often times guys top up their coolant with regular tap water that has minerals and other foreign contaminates. Same thing goes for when you are with a lady of the night. You never know what you are going to pick up til it’s too late. This is why you have to make extra sure you wrap it up before follow through Lol! Or just get the heck out of there. Seriously. Once you contaminated the cooling system, it’s all over and you get those results like this system here.
I had pictures of a big cam Cummins that number 2 piston collapsed and the rod blew the front 2 cam follower boxes and the corresponding part of the cam out of the block, cut the pan in half and flattened the front of the oil filter on the other side. Driver said it felt like a grenade went off under his feet. I picked up a piece of camshaft a couple hundred yards back up the road.
I honestly think that it needs to come out and hot tanked and a complete Platinum overhaul done on it. Ps. I have a complete 5EK parts engine over here on the other side of the state. 😉
Funny becauae silicone doesn't belong around toilets either since the wax ring should be sealing the drain and if its not and you just silicone around the base you are rotting out your subfloor.
I knew it was going to need a rebuild. A truck can go a long, long time if you actually take care of it. I've seen old series 60s go over 5 million. ISX can go (maybe) forever but,ya... you must take care of it. Yes, that means it will have to come out and get redone. Correctly.
2 things 1 silicone around a toilet only rots out the floor when the wax ring fails. Don't silicone the symptoms fix the problem ,the leak. 2 I saw those marks when I parked on a hill and the truck puked coolant and the motor turnd over as I was walking away . Ah, headgasket ... pulled it saw theas marks . My friend had some Penetrate die crack test spray . It looked like a blood bath when we sprayed the developer on # 3 Where these marks were.
Quality video, that thing is about ready for the scrapyard. You've got your work cut out there, just sorting out the coolant system. It is going to need a bit more than couple of dishwasher tablets to clean that system. With a million miles on the clock, the engine won't be the only issue with it. That is a money pit. I worked on a Scania coach with 1.6million miles on the engine in very similar condition. Covered in sealant, leaking every fluid known to man. I told the customer, the blown £4,000 engine ecu was the least of his problems.
Love you vids, been dealing with a possible ecm issue. I run a vac on a feed trailer, while vacing truck will die for no reason. No codes or lights. Starts back up runs for awhile does it again or won't for rest of week. Never does it going down road or unloading the feed. I have a scan gauge hooked up for some extra gauges the code reader will get codes for low current injectors but doesn't show up when dealer hooks up to ecm. Been jigging wires for ecm power will never die. Everyone says ecm wires from battery box, but when they go bad usually won't start back up and you get a check engine light. I'm baffled. Thanks
You're locking yourself into being the go to for the legacy things. There's never a lack of work for legacy. But, it sorta precludes you from working on new things since there's a never-ending stream of legacy things to work on...at least in my experience. I.e. know a lot and you get stuck, know little and you're free to move about. I think it's just what happens when you give a squirt.
i will say this, i had an issue with a kubota transmission constantly blowing out an oring. talked with them and they said it was somewhat of an issue and the current fix was to install a new oring, then put silicone. i asked why they even put an oring there when everything else on the dam transmission was put together with silicone and the guy said, i dont know, engineers do what they do lmao. also it looks like the previous operator had a bad coolant leak in a mud park and fixed it but only had the muddy water to run it lmao
Now that is a 'ventilated block' on that Mack!!! Wow!!! Probably one of the biggest holes I've ever seen in a block! Holy crap! I feel bad for the customer who brought you his truck. I mean he brought it to the right guy, but you have to have a little bit of a heart when it comes to seeing someone who was taken advantage of by the previous owner just trying to get rid of his headache of a vehicle that he most likely created by neglecting it and not maintaining/ paying attention to potential problems. If he disclosed all the issues prior to the sale and adjusted the asking price accordingly, and the buyer knew about all of this stuff, well that's a different story. Too many horror stories of good people getting duped and taken advantage of by shady ass folks. You definitely see it working in the automotive industry, and it's unfortunate. I have seen quite a bit over my 25+ years of turning wrenches at all kinds of different establishments. I am glad he brought you his truck on the other hand, because you are a stand-up guy and aren't going to screw him or take advantage of him. Unfortunately there are so many crooks in our business that require the customers to be extra careful and do their due diligence to make sure the tech they choose is a good one. Thanks for sharing this man, definitely had a host of issues, especially the intermittent ones, which are the most frustrating to diagnose.
Why are you so quick to feel sorry for the guy when you don't know the backstory? Maybe the guy never took it to a mechanic before he bought the truck which means you get what you pay for. The only way I would feel sympathy for him is if he took it to a mechanic and the mechanic gave mawal job and did not disclose the issues that Adept ape found.
We bought a tractor once knowing that the coolant and oil has mixed before and they still used it for a while, so it was overheating. What solved it was of course a new rad, plus a flush with diesel, the oil that was caked on the walls of the coolant passages came off in a rather spectacular way. It’s wet cylinder so a couple years later I cleaned it up some more with a wire wheel while it was being rebuilt.
I'll throw in a wild guess. Air in the cooling system from incomplete service opened a can of worms, followed by bandaid fixes and topping off with water at stops.
Saw that yrs ago on a guys fleet of trucks with cat c15s, the trucks were ordered with now water filters, the guy didn't know, never dip checked coolant to test it, ate his liners away, id say trucks were 8-10yrs old at the time
I mean, after that LONG period of service, I'd say she has now earned herself a complete overhaul. Might as well just do it right and do it all at this point!
It reminds me of the GM Delo antifreeze, GM's answer, antifreeze not changed at recommended intervals. Mechanics called it " Mississippi Mud" From my Cat years, never saw it with Cat Long Life Antifreeze.
It looks like some one has put OAT coolant in the engine rather than ethylene glycol. I have found switching to OAT coolant on older engines isn’t compatible with copper radiators and shutoff valves and hoses. I feel these OAT coolants are more for the DPF engines not everything out there.
Lol, it leaked so much coolant that the previous owner just put water in it. Always, always replace fuel injectors before they fail. Any used truck purchaser should pull the valve cover for inspections and replacements.
Wow, it looks like someone has dumped a load of stop leak in the cooling system to keep it going and then got rid of it before it totally failed. Looks like it was previously owned by a complete hack. The new owner has ended up with a real lemon.
that's why you should avoid used stuff if you can
I didn’t even think about it until I read this comment- that’s EXACTLY what that crap looks like. The ole Bars Leak. Every single (gasoline) engine I’ve ever seen that crap dumped into, ends up with coolant lines looking like that.
I wonder what they paid for it
Stop leak was my thought too... Man I feel for this owner... I've been in his shoes, buying somebody else's problem... I hope you get to rebuild it Josh!
There aren't any pre emission cats that aren't worth fixing. . Nice job EPA
Can we start a fundraiser to revive this engine? I really want to see a mini-series on this thing!
The most discouraging thing to me when dismantling something is seeing a crap ton of RTV/silicone. That’s a sure fire sign It’s had a hack working on it
Or a Detroit mechanic 😜
I think the same thing when i see zip ties that werent flush cut or cut at all.
The $#!t ton of Silly-Con anywhere on an engine is a sure sign Mr Dumb-@$$ Pliers has worked on it especially when you find bolts that don’t belong in the engine.
@@big_ute I got my arm opened up like a filet trout from some @$$#0le that used diagonal cutters instead of flush cuts. I know where Kevlar arm sleeves doing dash work or the first time I see a non factory tye-wraps. I got 18 stitches and the doctor who stitched me up in the ER told me I was lucky compared to another mechanic who also got his arm opened up from the middle of his bicep to his wrist. He said the mechanic shoved his arm into a tight space in the engine bay and “got it stuck” and jerked it out. The end result was muscles cut a vein nicked and long gash that took the better part of a night to stitch up according to the doctor.
@@gullreefclub lol I’ve had some fucked up zipties but wtf 😂😂 I cute mine straight but not flush bc zipties eventually will vibrate loose a tiny bit and I leave a small tag line so when it does it’s still ziptied and doesn’t just pop away and you loose your ziptie
Hopefully the customer comes to the realization that the best thing to do is just to let you do a complete rebuild of that engine.
If you rebuild it in frame how could you deal with the crap in the cooling system ?
nah replace it with a reman.
@@bill3641 new engine. Lol.
@@bill3641 my opinion would be is to do a really good flush
No way I’d rebuild with the coolant passages looking like that. Only God knows how bad the corrosion is inside that block.
Can't believe that truck could even crank with battery cables like that. We have 4 batteries in our trucks and we have had ONE SINGLE bad ground wire prevent it from cranking over with fully charged batteries... crazy. Thanks for sharing Josh, hope to see more of this!
It cranked just fine surprisingly, I was quite surprised when I pulled that battery cover.
Topping up the coolent with hard water every morning will do that to an engine and radiator. The water boils off leaving calcium and crap behind. I'm liking these lastest videos where you are looking for faults and remedies in customer's trucks.
Starting as an apprentice mechanic at a CAT dealership this month. This channel has been awesome! Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
Good for you! Best wishes. GOOD diesel techs are in high demand nationwide. We need you!!!
Also,check out KT3406E channel.
Good luck! You will be learning about the best engine in the business. Have a great career.
I had a good laugh at how you said "whoever put that in is a moron " no rage, frustration, emotion, etc just very matter of fact 🤣🤣
Same here! Hard to come by today, telling it as it is. Upsets the "moron" group. "are now considered offensive"
That radiator sealant in a bottle is nasty, about the only way to get it out is to boil the dismantled parts and shoot boiling cleaner through the ports and gulleys. It is nasty stuff. She is ready for a full rebuild, probably not what the owner wanted to see. Another educational video, thank you Sir. Stay safe and healthy.
Or do a dip in a hot water tank the block. My thought on a inframe is only good to do when you don't have a problem like the cooling system ports/ galleries. I personally would pull it yes it's more time but kitty kitties are a good engine so why not do it thoroughly .
Yeah it all needs to be taken apart to bare castings and hot tanked basically. Only sure fire way to make sure all the bars leak or whatever stop leak and deposits are gone. Really unfortunate, I hate seeing people getting screwed by hacks and crooks. Seen it way too much in this industry over the last 25 years or so, and it has gotten worse from what I've seen. Real shame.
I wanted to be a diesel mechanic when I was in high school. Ended up joining the Air Force and became an aircraft mechanic instead. Never know where the road will take you sometimes.
Once I saw the way those batteries were configured, it spoke everything about the maintenance program (or lack of) that the previous owner had. All of that mud/gunk in the coolant system sure looks like radiator stop leak additive as well as electrolysis. The problem at this point, any minor repairs made to try to keep it limping down the road is just putting lipstick on a pig. I love troubleshooting videos like this though, so thanks for posting!
I agree, looks like lack of antifreeze over a long period of time.
I'm a John Deere C&F mechanic, I get a lot of engine stuff out in the field. Best thing I've ever use for broken manifold studs is this special welding rod called x-tractalloy. The flux stops the weld from sticking to the threads, the heat frees up the stud, weld a nut to the end. Best shit ever.
Looks like a good candidate for an out of frame rebuild and acid dip
The mud in the block is block seal. We have two trucks with cats that the whole system looks the same way. My buddy who owns them used it and learned why you shouldn't afterwards. It's been over 8 years many coolant changes even a rebuild on each motor you can't get rid of the block seal once it's been put in the motor
That's good to know, that really sucks though. Stuff is everywhere.
@@AdeptApe we've changed the piping, raditors, even the thermostat housing on one of the trucks it still coats everything in a thin layer of brown. Whether it causes premature liner damage we have no clue but everything seems OK. As far as trying to remove it goes nothing works except chipping it out which isn't worth the trouble
@@AdeptApe that stuff is terrible. I grew up extremely poor, and virtually every vehicle we owned used it at one time or another. Seen that same crap in every single one come time to flush….
I think about the only way to get rid of it would be to hot tank the stripped block... Very heart breaking to see that much of it in that poor 5ek...
No it don't that's lot lizard juice.
At 1.3 million miles them liners dont owe anyone a damned thing lol. Kinda impressed at how resilient this motor is with all the issues
The dark diesel is likely used oil, fill it with off road diesel and throw in a few gallons of used oil to mask the dye.
that's rough black used oil is full of junk that will clog the fuel filters unless they send it trough a filter while adding it to the tank
id use actual dye to mask red diesel
i worked on a companys trucks that use to filter and blend in used engine oil. didnt seem to cause any issues they all got there milage (all cat by the way)
So just found your channel today from a lucky UA-cam recommendation. Been binge watching your videos and man it’s been awesome! Incredible detail and your great at helping us understand what’s going on. Really enjoying your amazing work. Thank you!
I had a NTC CUMMINS that Pittsburg power built to 550 hp . Every year I would drain the coolant then fill it with tap water and add cascade dishwasher soap and run it at idle for about an 3 hours . After removing the bottom hose and rinsing the engine out good I filled it with 5 gallons of distilled water 2 bottles of the additive,and 5 gallons of coolant .At 1.5 million we rebuilt the engine and the mechanics were amazed at the liners there wasn’t a single pit on any of them in fact the mechanic wanted to put new rings in and reuse them . Preventative maintenance goes a long way to get longevity out of a Diesel engine. We also used synthetic oil regularly changed every 22,000 miles with wix xe filters .
At what RPM did you idle the engine at..?
Whenever I wonder if I should return to the diesel field, I watch your videos. I get my fix living vicariously through you! Appreciate the uploads
Looks like reman time. I put a one way flow valve in one last week on the suction side and it helped. The coolant by pass hose I like to use a 7E0759 instead of the 9Y4104. It is longer and cheaper. The glue between the cylinder block and front plate is sort of the old recall service letter. PS5290, PS5291, PS5292. When Cat wanted to put epoxy over the leak and try to seal it in. When the 5EK's first came out the fuel flow was as you described. Then the aluminium piston's started failing. So new software came out and the fuel flow was reversed from ECM to front of head and returned out the rear. I have swapped out broken EUI springs when the customer can't afford a new EUI or putting a new one in with a bunch of worn out ones causing a cylinder to fire harder then the rest. He also needs a low coolant sensor, did not see one in that radiator that is junk. Never seen head bolts bubble, new one on me. Glad you got it, and not me. Ever do a high speed five cylinder cut out test?
I'm going to have to write that coolant hose number down. I used the C15 one once, well I ordered it, then realized they are bigger. Oops. A wealth of knowledge as usual. I found something new to you! Finally!
I have done manual 5 cylinder cut out tests usual at 1000 rpm. The little C7 won't run on 1 cylinder, but the 3400 engines will.
@@AdeptApe I data log, get engine around 190f, run at TEL. Kill five cylinders and see how many RPM's that cylinder will hold. By doing so your giving full rack to that EUI. No fan, no A/C, no air compressor. Also when I start, take out 6 thru 2 first. Then kill one and fire it back real quick. I want to see if it can pull it back up. Then kill one and fire two and so forth. Hold each point one minute. Taking notes on RPM's each cylinder is holding. If I see one or so lower I go back to that cylinder(S) again to see if the reading is holding true. Anything over 100 RPM's I am concern. Anything over 200 RPM's, Houston we have a problem.
I also try and talk the customer in putting the 6NZ style lines across the front of the head for fuel and air compressor if I can. Have to do some modification, but in the long run last longer.
Legend.
Love my Airlift...thanks for recommending it. Good advice that the cooling system in a diesel deserves regular proper maintenance and the consequences of ignoring it. Cavitation is real and destructive.
I agree 100% on cooling system maintenance, but in this case, I swear that’s Bars Leaks
Agree with the comments about some sort of 'stop-leak' in the cooling system. In addition, I've seen similar buildup/corrosion in a couple locomotives where they were running straight untreated water from questionable sources (one unit had about 25% of the radiator entirely blocked off by sludge buildup).
Some people mix a bit of ATF and oil with their fuel because there's lower lubricity than it used to have
Shouldn’t be anywhere near that dark, though.
Serious lack of schedule maintenance. Especially the cooling system. That gunk I have seen on engines using a coolant filter with additive. Over concentrating the nitrite additive.
Cavitation from coolant side of liner when cylinder fires it creates a shock wave causes cavitation .
Also block heater electrolysis we had a Cummins get holes through from block heater electrolysis since payloader was plugged in all winter for snow removal .
So if i understand correctly its possible that the block and the head is fine, right? I wonder what would a CO2 coolant test show before the head was pulled.
My dad's 2006 Kenworth W900 has over 1.6 or 1.7 million miles on it. Somewhere between 1.6 and 2 million I remember when I last checked. Just 1 million is nothing to his truck. Right now the company he works for is about to go bankrupt, the owner has millions but won't take any of his money out of his account and put it in the company's.
Welcome to America 🇺🇸
Sounds like a TON of trucking companies. Seriously I've seen this story play out no less than 5 times since I was a teenager and I'm only 29. Lol
@@markm0000 and it's 110,000 miles or more of roads
The owner is smart honestly, unfortunately your dad will be the one to suffer, but the way America is going it’s basically over. Everyone needs to hold on to any cash they have. Diesel is going to be insane by Christmas well over $10 a gallon. It will collapse America in a way never seen.
@@yeahok115sure Maybe unrelated however here in Ireland fuel prices are through the roof as is electricity. We are in recession again and 2023 looks extremly bleak. Watch your dollars guys. Recession coming your way.
I love Detroit.. I have a 3406B mechanical cat .. but by the time u finish watching this guy videos he will turn me into cat mechanic .. love your videos..and your honesty
It may cost a pretty penny to rebuild this engine, but it'll be a real money maker. Pre emission is the only way to have maximum uptime.
As a 5EK owner, thanks for the video. Always learning something new. Thank you!
Pretty engine awesome Josh. Such a treasure of destruction. Perfect for showing all the things engines of many miles have. Complete rebuild and paint will be great for a next million miles. Hopefully customer does it. Cheers Josh 👍💪🍻
My favorite mechanic!
And this is even though this as I own a Toyota and a Freightliner with a Cummins 14!
I'm so glad the William Tell Overture is back!
I am very puzzled how the coolant to be so unaffected when everything else in the pulley system seems so affected by us large
That looks like a complete rebuild, or trip to the scrap yard for that engine. Only time I ever seen an engine that looked like that, was on a 1 ton that came out of the west Texas oil fields that they had been dumping crude oil into. But that was a gasoline engine oil galley, not the cooling system. Yet I seam to remember a 1972 Ford F-100 that had a cooling system that looked looked similar, but someone had tried to fix a cooling leak with raw eggs.
Unless the factory service manual calls for silicone sealant, I do not use it. Static elastomer gaskets and O-rings do not normally need anything to "help" them seal. Occasionally, a FSM will require a SMALL bead of silicone at the corners of a gasket or where two separate ones meet, but that is about it in my experience. If I have a paper or composite gasket and I need it to stay put on a vertical surface during reassembly, a little Hylomar Blue works.
Just an old wrencher Ya can tell you are serious about your job .n take pride in what you do Keep on Wrenchin
That brown coolant goo looks very familiar. It looks just like when someone uses those head-gasket-in-a-bottle type chemicals. They rarely work but they do leave a hell of a mess for the next guy
oh, and btw...could the dark fuel be caused by trying to use some slightly "nefarious" fuels? I.e. old motor oil and such? The lack of fucks given on everything else made me think they were trying to squeeze every penny out of that thing before they dumped it on someone else
Im lovin this one. The first owner that handed me the keys told me this truck should run a million miles.
I have this engine for my shop class right now, I have the pistons out and the cylinder head sitting on tables right now. So excited to see you talk about it😅❤
As like the rest of your video's, Very interesting!! Be nice that the customer want to rebuild it, like to see that #6 Sleeve from the water jacket side!! Thanks for taking the time to record and share!!
Excellent video, I had a Cat 5EK engine in my 1994 Peterbilt, it was one of the first 10,000 EK's built. I had no trouble with it but Cat put a new camshaft in it free of charge, they say said Cat had trouble with the 1st EK's cams. I put 780,000 miles on it before it starting getting water in the oil. Had it overhauled & while tearing down they came to find out the deck was out of spec. so the engine had to betaken out of truck, as long as out they checked my crankshaft & it had a crack in it. New crank had to be put in it, but I would have had a complete overhaul done on that engine with a crank that surely would have broke at some point and we never would have found it if the deck would have passed specs. Costs a lost more than planned but still better to find the cracked crank ahead of it breaking. That very same motor is running daily since the out of frame overhaul & has another 600,000 miles on it. Those E models don't get the credit they have coming in my view. It's all about the C15 and the 6NZ.
I recently found silicone used on a fuel fitting on a DD15 head. It was the return line but still someone used silicone instead of the o-ring. It mildly infuriated me.
The number 6 cylinder/sleeve wall reminded me of something that I saw in my dad's 1973 Oldsmobile Omega Rocket 350 Rocket engine (gasoline). The engine started overheating in 1998. Pop had a hydrocarbon test in the cooling system. Pops replaced the cylinder heads. The need for new heads was surprising because his grandpa had the engine completely rebuilt about 30,000 miles prior to the overheat problem. This didn't eliminate the presence of hydrocarbons in the engine coolant. We had the heads pulled and inspected the cylinder walls. We found a line in one of the cylinders near a water jacket. The reason I mention my dad's experience is the fact that we found the cylinder to be just as smooth and physically undetectable (to the touch) as that which you found in your customer's cat engine.
#AdeptApe
The company I worked for regularly used sno- bowl to clean out the cooling system. Not sure if this is a good thing or not but this was the 70’s and we’re talking two stroke Detroits.
Good diagnostic skills , white smoke usually always low compression , dribbling injectors , un-burnt fuel.
That was so close to going up in flames. People underestimate the problems loose batteries can cause. Trucks reach a point at that million mile mark where everything wears out. "Bin" it my advice , just gonna be a great big money pit for the owner, it will never end (repairs)
Righteous start to Sunday morning. Thank you.😊
Pretty damn impressive honestly! It’s obvious at some point previous owner said screw dumping money into it if it doesn’t NEED it, it’s closing in on 1 million miles anyhow.
I'm mechanical engineer at a railroad repair facility and we discover such sludge very often on neglected engines.
As some of our client accept to pay the price for regular oil and coolant analysis, we have discovered that such engines even after flushing the cooling system and putting fresh coolant, within next two months, coolant was bad (coolant was still preventing the even from freezing but wasn't protection from corrosion at all!!!).
The chemist from the company that does oil and water analyses for us explained that it's silicate coming from coolant that got way too old. This creates a thermal barrier and your cooling system become way less effective. He advises us the rinse such engine with soda and let the engine warm with it, cool down for two hours, rinse with clear water, flush again before filling with fresh coolant. This process worked great, and we could see a real difference with engine temperature and analysis are way better. To reduce the risk of such sludge to appear, we now ask our client to use silicate free coolant (but that's way more expensive and they don't always agree).
I much prefer your method than the guy that idles his truck for 3 hours with dish soap in it posted in an abobe comment.
As usual, a well put together video. Thanks for sharing
Hope the customer has the money to fix it since it would make a great video. Unfortunately most in this situation will have the truck parked in the lot for a months before it finally gets towed out never to be seen again.
This is why you should take it to a mechanic for inspection. Before buying something. Bought a worn-out truck. Once you get done with engine. Then clutch and transmission problems then rear-ends.
I think it'd be great if all mechanics recorded video while they work on your rig and the customer be able to watch it.
Electrolysis would lead to the symptom in the number 6 liner.
Especially after seeing the battery situation.
Those engines really need to be grounded properly and checked often. I’ve seen a lot of problems just with electrolysis over the years. It’s not talked about enough.
Often times guys top up their coolant with regular tap water that has minerals and other foreign contaminates.
Same thing goes for when you are with a lady of the night. You never know what you are going to pick up til it’s too late. This is why you have to make extra sure you wrap it up before follow through Lol! Or just get the heck out of there.
Seriously. Once you contaminated the cooling system, it’s all over and you get those results like this system here.
Do a lot of people just leave their trucks because they don’t want to fix the engine or whatever is wrong with it?
I had pictures of a big cam Cummins that number 2 piston collapsed and the rod blew the front 2 cam follower boxes and the corresponding part of the cam out of the block, cut the pan in half and flattened the front of the oil filter on the other side. Driver said it felt like a grenade went off under his feet. I picked up a piece of camshaft a couple hundred yards back up the road.
Such great videos, I have a Cummins isx, but I still learn a lot from your videos🚛🚛
Very interested in the follow ups and finish of this big project! Awesomeness
3406e is one of the Best engines ever made, i had it on my 1st truck only thing i replaced was injector cups and that thing was a beast at 455hp
Love your videos.
Looks like hackery isn't limited to regular cars and trucks!
I honestly think that it needs to come out and hot tanked and a complete Platinum overhaul done on it. Ps. I have a complete 5EK parts engine over here on the other side of the state. 😉
I had a similar fuel start up problem. Was leaky return line splitter valve and fuel pump. BXS though.
Funny becauae silicone doesn't belong around toilets either since the wax ring should be sealing the drain and if its not and you just silicone around the base you are rotting out your subfloor.
I knew it was going to need a rebuild. A truck can go a long, long time if you actually take care of it. I've seen old series 60s go over 5 million. ISX can go (maybe) forever but,ya... you must take care of it. Yes, that means it will have to come out and get redone. Correctly.
2 things
1 silicone around a toilet only rots out the floor when the wax ring fails. Don't silicone the symptoms fix the problem ,the leak.
2
I saw those marks when I parked on a hill and the truck puked coolant and the motor turnd over as I was walking away . Ah, headgasket ... pulled it saw theas marks . My friend had some Penetrate die crack test spray . It looked like a blood bath when we sprayed the developer on # 3 Where these marks were.
Quality video, that thing is about ready for the scrapyard. You've got your work cut out there, just sorting out the coolant system. It is going to need a bit more than couple of dishwasher tablets to clean that system. With a million miles on the clock, the engine won't be the only issue with it. That is a money pit. I worked on a Scania coach with 1.6million miles on the engine in very similar condition. Covered in sealant, leaking every fluid known to man. I told the customer, the blown £4,000 engine ecu was the least of his problems.
Love you vids, been dealing with a possible ecm issue. I run a vac on a feed trailer, while vacing truck will die for no reason. No codes or lights. Starts back up runs for awhile does it again or won't for rest of week. Never does it going down road or unloading the feed. I have a scan gauge hooked up for some extra gauges the code reader will get codes for low current injectors but doesn't show up when dealer hooks up to ecm. Been jigging wires for ecm power will never die. Everyone says ecm wires from battery box, but when they go bad usually won't start back up and you get a check engine light. I'm baffled. Thanks
Could you please show your camera setup
How are you able to work and film too ?
Just curious
What a nice list of problems you have found .👍👍👍👍
Probably not bad for the moles on it .
You're locking yourself into being the go to for the legacy things. There's never a lack of work for legacy. But, it sorta precludes you from working on new things since there's a never-ending stream of legacy things to work on...at least in my experience. I.e. know a lot and you get stuck, know little and you're free to move about. I think it's just what happens when you give a squirt.
And where is that bad?
It's an interesting rock and a hard place scenario.
insightful
@@pr0n5tar is
Stick with the Legacy. The new shit sucks!
John goldsmith is a genius
wow! at least you know where all the sludge is coming from! she needs a rebuild!
Looks like a coolant sealer was used on it at one time. heavy coating on everything.
Why I recommend a coolant filtration system on all diesels.
Great video
Thank you for the recommendation on silicone around toilet 😜.
Thanks again
Seeing the state of this engine it gives me Hope regards my VW LT35 2.5 SDI…
"Must be the same person" savage. But true.
Give your recommendation on what's best for the custumer to do!
Great video! 👍🏽😃
i will say this, i had an issue with a kubota transmission constantly blowing out an oring. talked with them and they said it was somewhat of an issue and the current fix was to install a new oring, then put silicone. i asked why they even put an oring there when everything else on the dam transmission was put together with silicone and the guy said, i dont know, engineers do what they do lmao. also it looks like the previous operator had a bad coolant leak in a mud park and fixed it but only had the muddy water to run it lmao
Now that is a 'ventilated block' on that Mack!!! Wow!!! Probably one of the biggest holes I've ever seen in a block! Holy crap!
I feel bad for the customer who brought you his truck. I mean he brought it to the right guy, but you have to have a little bit of a heart when it comes to seeing someone who was taken advantage of by the previous owner just trying to get rid of his headache of a vehicle that he most likely created by neglecting it and not maintaining/ paying attention to potential problems. If he disclosed all the issues prior to the sale and adjusted the asking price accordingly, and the buyer knew about all of this stuff, well that's a different story. Too many horror stories of good people getting duped and taken advantage of by shady ass folks. You definitely see it working in the automotive industry, and it's unfortunate. I have seen quite a bit over my 25+ years of turning wrenches at all kinds of different establishments. I am glad he brought you his truck on the other hand, because you are a stand-up guy and aren't going to screw him or take advantage of him. Unfortunately there are so many crooks in our business that require the customers to be extra careful and do their due diligence to make sure the tech they choose is a good one. Thanks for sharing this man, definitely had a host of issues, especially the intermittent ones, which are the most frustrating to diagnose.
Why are you so quick to feel sorry for the guy when you don't know the backstory?
Maybe the guy never took it to a mechanic before he bought the truck which means you get what you pay for.
The only way I would feel sympathy for him is if he took it to a mechanic and the mechanic gave mawal job and did not disclose the issues that Adept ape found.
I've had quite a few ISX engine get the head bolt bubble like that when taking loose
I was actually driving that Mack when it happened lol. Engine went kaboom and then I went to sleep that night
Nice 👍. I have 3 1/2 million miles on my truck. If you take care of them they'll last forever 😁👍🤘
I just did a 1.3 million mile 379.. was putting out almost 17 volts..lights were glowing 😂
Thank you very much.
We bought a tractor once knowing that the coolant and oil has mixed before and they still used it for a while, so it was overheating. What solved it was of course a new rad, plus a flush with diesel, the oil that was caked on the walls of the coolant passages came off in a rather spectacular way. It’s wet cylinder so a couple years later I cleaned it up some more with a wire wheel while it was being rebuilt.
Just what you want to hear your mechanic say: "never seen that before"
I'll throw in a wild guess. Air in the cooling system from incomplete service opened a can of worms, followed by bandaid fixes and topping off with water at stops.
Wanderlodge/throwaways, I represent that remark.
Saw that yrs ago on a guys fleet of trucks with cat c15s, the trucks were ordered with now water filters, the guy didn't know, never dip checked coolant to test it, ate his liners away, id say trucks were 8-10yrs old at the time
This is a complete rebuild!
Total rebuild is the ticket. Hope he has money for it.
That's the question!!!!!!
Quite the potpourri (I’ve never used that word in a sentence before)
Great videos I've learned so much, please keep them coming,thankyou and take care.
I mean, after that LONG period of service, I'd say she has now earned herself a complete overhaul. Might as well just do it right and do it all at this point!
Silicone is good for shower stalls too, not just toilets
It reminds me of the GM Delo antifreeze, GM's answer, antifreeze not changed at recommended intervals.
Mechanics called it " Mississippi Mud"
From my Cat years, never saw it with Cat Long Life Antifreeze.
Who TF leaves their batteries like that ? The muck in coolant system is probably stop leak if i had to guess.. great video
It looks like some one has put OAT coolant in the engine rather than ethylene glycol. I have found switching to OAT coolant on older engines isn’t compatible with copper radiators and shutoff valves and hoses. I feel these OAT coolants are more for the DPF engines not everything out there.
Lol, it leaked so much coolant that the previous owner just put water in it.
Always, always replace fuel injectors before they fail.
Any used truck purchaser should pull the valve cover for inspections and replacements.
Great find for the apprentice to see.
And to work with someone who know whats going on.
So i want to understand the final cause, so it was the liner that is leaking gas to the water line that causes the bubbles in the bottle test?
I don't understand it either but i have seen head bolts bubble/release pressure like that, wild.