Thanks for watching and do you like these longer format videos or the older, shorter videos? If you wanted to check out the ultraviolet light here it is. Amazon Affiliate Link to the awesome Ultraviolet Light in the video: UV Professional Grade Light: amzn.to/3gzxPc0 Oil and Fuel Dye UV: amzn.to/3z34zkv
It depends. Attention span is always a concern, but if the information is worthwhile, a longer video is always a good idea. I generally prefer a shorter video--30 minutes or less-but some presentations just are possible without cutting out all the good stuff.
FYI - Missing coolant on a Kenworth could be the trans cooler. I know this one was burning coolant but just so everyone who has not had this happen Knows and your looking for the 3 gallons of missing coolant - pull the tranny plug, I've had them FULL of anti freeze and oh what a relief when you realize it's not your motor.
We had a DT466 we overhauled once that we replaced the head (re-worked) on twice before figuring out there was a hairline crack in one of the liners. It was a International overhaul kit not aftermarket.
I recently rebuilt a bxs, it was consuming coolant. The orings of the couplkngs for the injectors were worn out and the head gasket was due also got a new spacer which helped after getting the block machined also changed the orings for the piston sleeves and the rings for the pistons itself. It solved my issue i think...
Worked with an older mechanic years ago at a Freightliner dealership, to check for burning oil or passing oil. Would add the dye, warm the engine up, turn off, remove the exhaust manifold/turbo, cap turbo pressure line, start the engine up and point the ultraviolet light around the exhaust ports.
On BXS engines I like to put the IVA oil deflector under the fumes valve cover. Also turn the fuel return line around if possible. Put the straight fitting in the rear and invert the fuel line, with the updated mounting hardware. Have you started double torquing the cylinder head yet on these? A few years ago I had one came in loosing coolant. It was overhauled, replaced the head and other work. Send it to John to dyno test it. What I found was the wrong radiator neck. It was so deep the radiator cap was not even touching the neck and had no seal, thus not running under psi. Called radiator shop out, they put a new neck on while on the dyno. Ran a bottle test under load and put a new cap on and ran it. Not pushing water out. A lot of money wasted on a cheap repair.
The nylon cooling fan has a chunk out of one blade. It's probably cracked as a result of impacting something. If it is, it willl utimately fail and take out the radiator. (20 years working for the company that first produced fiberglass reinforced nylon fans in the USA. Formerly Kysor/Cadillac, now Borg Warner Thermal Systems) Vehicles that go off road are famous for picking up rocks in the front tires and flinging them at the back of the fan. Usually due to a poor or damaged inner fender system. Check for gravel at the radiator rear, down at the bottom.
That fan is fine..both of my trucks have a piece out like that and have for a decade or more..And I have seen more than I can remember with damage like that and in 15 years have never seen a fan come apart from anything like that.
One do you every pressure test the head to check for leaks to start with before pulling the head? Pull oil pan and look for coolant dripping, in this case there was no coolant in oil that you showed checking dip stick. But do you have a pressure test stand for just cylinder heads, at my dealer ship we could pressure test the head by it's self to find leaks, also powder tested them or crack die test! We had a spec shop that completely rebuilt cylinder heads.
I really like what you said regarding knowing the problem going into the repair. I am an appliance technician of 27 years and the intermittent problems or the nuanced problems that require a lot of diagnostic skill can be very overwhelming. Probably a lot worse when it comes to diesel engines then residential appliances I'd imagine.
I bought the smaller UV Beast light based on your previous recommendation. I was amazed at how well it works. The one we have at work only works when there's very little ambient light, it's pointed DIRECTLY at the leak, and using the special glasses.
I'm new to your channel! I worked on a 3408 CAT that had a cavitation leak (from poor coolant) BELOW BDC in the cylinder only found when we pulled pistons and pressurised the system!
It didn't show signs of burning coolant. I take it that the leak was in one of the exhaust ports of the head? Usually the pistons would look brand new clean when antifreeze is in the combustion chamber.
I myself on my truck. Don’t think aftermarket parts such as heads, major components make a lot of financial sense. Typically they don’t carry as good of a warranty and sometimes quality can be questionable. Also depends what your truck will be doing if you are building a everyday work truck that you have to count on reliability or are you building a pulling truck or drag truck that has to be reliable to start and run for a couple of pulls on a sled.
finally, something I'm a little familliar with. I may just have been the site driver, but logging equipment at least is familliar. you shoulda seen the beat-up old skidders we had to deal with. they had to be prodded to grease the thing!
Hey bud. Just an idea. Watching your videos. Great stuff. I’ve noticed that people seem to be using the long life coolant (red). My Pete with the C15 is always had the Espar engine heater on it and was blowing seals in the espar. The rep came and even sent my heater right to the manufacturer in Germany. It came back as a fail due to the long last coolant. So i flushed the engine and put in the green. Never had an issue since. I wonder if many issue you are seeing are a result of that. Thx
It's basically the same thing. The difference is mostly just the oil, the dye is suspended in. That oil has to be compatible with the oil in the machine.
Josh, thanks for your videos, they are very informative. Just have one question on C15s; I talked to a guy that pulls double grain trailers, and I asked him what he had for the engine. He said it is a C15 set to 675 horsepower and 2,300 ft lb of torque. I asked him if that was a factory setting, and he said yes, but that it was not programmed by a Cat dealer. Is this horsepower / torque setting a factory setting, and can you get this much horsepower and torque reliably out of a C15?
On an ACERT C15, the highest factory setting was q 625 HP, 2050 torque. Going from a 550 to a 600 or 625 HP legally is a nightmare. First you need a transmission and clutch. Then you need a larger radiator, fan and fan shroud. Extra radiator brace across the engine. A different surge tank and an extra over flow tank, engine camshaft, EUI's, high psi turbo, flash and get Cat to give a TC the passwords.
Do you think one of those exhaust studs that are fully threaded maybe broke out and made a leak? Don't know just a guess but I'm betting there's a reason CAT only threads them half way. It would be interesting to do a pressure/post mortem on that head to see what happened. Keep the good stuff coming .
CAT should have three separate heads like old 855 Cummins. C7 junk.. CAT using way to many Chinese parts at Counter I just got "made in China" at Stealership here in NY. Many fed up with ripoff on service also . I always loved CAT but today no more . CAT should pay you for good tech help . Excellent 👍
I'm really kinda scared right now and could seriously use your advice Josh. I can't afford to parts cannon this bus atm. Diesel ECM sent me a rebuilt ECM with an engine ID of HEP15637 mine is an HEP26893. I question it and they say it will work. But yet it populated many codes I never had and 4 I did, but not all injector fault codes like before. Engine started and ran, populated codes, engine shuts down. Injection actuation pressure voltage high is of the 4 codes from before but my ground and 5v reference come back clean ECM to all 4 sensors. I'm at a loss 😞
No downloads showing on HEP15367, Several on HEP26893. The serial number is just a number. What flash file, FLS/FTS and on some engines the injector codes are important (some engines don't have injector codes). Then the secondary programming on how the truck is set up. The problem with the wrong serial number is only one should exist. It will affect a failure if it is under a warranty situation. Since downloads exist on your ECM, I would want to see how this one is programmed. What faults are active if any and what is logged. Logged codes can be cleared and see what goes active. From what I can tell your REMAN part number should be 10R3571. If an ECM is corrupted, sometimes it cannot be removed out of the ECM. I had one recently that you could not change the fuel numbers as the ECM had a hi-jacked flash file in it. Also doing a data transfer out of another ECM download can carry that corruption into your current ECM. If I that the data is corrupt, I do not save a copy (electronically) when I hook up to it. Those have to be entered manually into the replacement ECM.
@@johngoldsmith6629 I've learned a lot very quickly in the last couple of months since purchasing this bus 😄😞 On my original ECM the 6 injector fault codes are logged and not active and I may have very well repaired those myself when I completely went thru my injector harness from ECM to injectors. However 4 active codes remained including my injector pressure actuation sensor within the 4 codes crucial codes populating on my original ECM. All high codes indicating open connection rather than low codes that would indicate shorting. I apologize for the late response, I received no notification of replies to my inquiry. Upon installing the used ECM sold to me for 2k, within the first minute of starting and running the used ECM populated the same 4 codes plus additional communication codes I never had before but no injector fault codes. I was only able to acquire active codes thru flash code read, when I hooked up a handheld it immediately warned of communication errors and would not give me active codes but however did give me the VIN, engine code, and software version. This was how I obtained the used ECM information before acquiring a PSR on that ECM which confirmed I recorded the multiple flash codes correctly (what a pain). Mean while my bus is and still is setting on state property and being 6.5 hrs away from my home without my electrical diag and repair equipment causing even more frustration being reliant on the opinions of others and their equipment. I made the decision of requesting a refund and my original ECM returned (still waiting for it to happen). I expected some kind of restocking fee ect... But not 30% plus 200 which brings it to an 800 loss for nothing!! If I had understood the language, how to understand what my original ECM was telling me I may have never sent my ECM in for repairs in the first place. Especially to receive a used ECM that was not correct for my square top Heui system. I have less than 15 days to get my bus moved or it will be impounded (not good with the surprise title issues, which can be rectified but not without time involved). Very scary especially now running on fumes financially from all this. I have pretty well narrowed it down to body side ECM harness issues, because I've gone thru every single wire on the engine, load testing ect... to make sure I haven't missed anything there. But the body harness is a bit more of a pain with fuel and air lines running over the top in an already very tight area situation. Initial power and ground tests were good but that load testing to reveal bad, corroded, or broken connection areas on all 70+ wires on the body harness side. I feel my problem has been there all along. But right now I wait on the return of funds and original ECM to go back down for a 3rd attempt with all of my equipment so I am reliant on no one but myself to either repair or find someone to haul it home for me. All the while running on fumes because I'm 8k in on a bus only worth a 1000 not running. I'm trying very hard to be patient and not lose my head especially when I'm a very precise technician. In my field as an auto of 35 yrs I have a reputation of fixing those problems no one else seems to be able to figure out and give up on without parts cannon the problem to get lucky. Electrical and mechanical (engine rebuild/overhaul) are my primary skill sets in the automotive field. I'm questioning the service I received from Diesel ECM because before I sent my original ECM in for a flash or repair I had opened the core up and inspected my board for visible issues of which there were none. No darkened burnt spots, no lamination issues and or an electrical smell of death commonly found with burnt out electronics. I also documented everything with notes and pics as per my normal methods when tracking down issues others give up on. I just hope and pray right now that my original ECM and refund shows up within the next day or so, so I can get back down there with my equipment and no one in my ear so I can hopefully quickly find the problem and get it moving again. Otherwise I'm stuck trying to find someone kind enough to haul it home for what little I have left right now. 😞😞😞 I've learned a lot however costly it has ultimately become and I will never be caught with my pants down again!!! Commercial truck and body closed their doors after working with them for 6yrs. I've been in the automotive field for 35yrs before that. This was my chance to break free and take it easy for the remainder of this journeys walk. Yrs of working for peanuts in a field not friendly to the body has taken its toll as much as I have loved doing this kind of work over the yrs. But now I will have to return for a time to rebuild what I have lost in the process of all this.
So customer states he's burning coolant, but what he's really saying is that he's LOSING coolant and assuming its being burned. Wouldn't you want to pressurize the cooling system and look for external leaks before you just tear the head off?? You can lose a lot of coolant through external leaks that only leak when the cooling system is pressurized. Also while the system is pressurized (preferably overnight) you would drop the pan and look up into the bottom of the bores to verify that your actually losing coolant internally(running down between piston and liner) and which cylinder/cylinder's are the problem. These are the first things i thought of while watching this.
About 2 years ago, after 40 plus years at this got an oscilloscope. Best use so far has been Relative Compression Tests (RCT). Takes me maybe 10 minutes but I’m old and slow. Instantly shows weak cylinders. Figuring out which takes a bit longer. When starting diag on say a power complaint it’s one of the first things I do. Prevents wasting time on other steps. Have found 3 bad so far. The hotshot car guys have been using them for decades. Waaayyyy faster than mechanical tests.
Q. for ya..... could you not use a smoke machine in place of the die?? i have herd of some people using this with good success. what would be you thoughts on this??
Thanks for watching and do you like these longer format videos or the older, shorter videos? If you wanted to check out the ultraviolet light here it is. Amazon Affiliate Link to the awesome Ultraviolet Light in the video:
UV Professional Grade Light: amzn.to/3gzxPc0
Oil and Fuel Dye UV: amzn.to/3z34zkv
It is Eric. Glad you got to use the nut driver already!
I like both.
Man, don’t point that light at your eyes. Probably scorch your corneas in a split second! Thanks for the double-feature, Josh
It depends. Attention span is always a concern, but if the information is worthwhile, a longer video is always a good idea. I generally prefer a shorter video--30 minutes or less-but some presentations just are possible without cutting out all the good stuff.
I love these long format videos, you can kick back for an hour and watch the full process of the diagnosis and fix.
Inquiring minds still want to know what the head issue was.
Yeah wtf lmao that's an expensive fix with no confirmation.
FYI - Missing coolant on a Kenworth could be the trans cooler. I know this one was burning coolant but just so everyone who has not had this happen Knows and your looking for the 3 gallons of missing coolant - pull the tranny plug, I've had them FULL of anti freeze and oh what a relief when you realize it's not your motor.
Yay!!! DOTW theme music is back!!!
Agreed, so much better with the music!
Always hated it when there was no smoking gun to really show the problem. Hopefully all is well with it this time.
We had a DT466 we overhauled once that we replaced the head (re-worked) on twice before figuring out there was a hairline crack in one of the liners. It was a International overhaul kit not aftermarket.
I recently rebuilt a bxs, it was consuming coolant. The orings of the couplkngs for the injectors were worn out and the head gasket was due also got a new spacer which helped after getting the block machined also changed the orings for the piston sleeves and the rings for the pistons itself. It solved my issue i think...
Worked with an older mechanic years ago at a Freightliner dealership, to check for burning oil or passing oil. Would add the dye, warm the engine up, turn off, remove the exhaust manifold/turbo, cap turbo pressure line, start the engine up and point the ultraviolet light around the exhaust ports.
I did that on marine diesel . Excellent tip 👍
I love watching a Pro wrench giving Pro results.
Good job, Josh ! 👌😊👍
I always get a laugh out of you going "BEEP" before starting something when you can't use the horn. Thanks for the video as always.
Yes! The sounds are back!
On BXS engines I like to put the IVA oil deflector under the fumes valve cover. Also turn the fuel return line around if possible. Put the straight fitting in the rear and invert the fuel line, with the updated mounting hardware. Have you started double torquing the cylinder head yet on these? A few years ago I had one came in loosing coolant. It was overhauled, replaced the head and other work. Send it to John to dyno test it. What I found was the wrong radiator neck. It was so deep the radiator cap was not even touching the neck and had no seal, thus not running under psi. Called radiator shop out, they put a new neck on while on the dyno. Ran a bottle test under load and put a new cap on and ran it. Not pushing water out. A lot of money wasted on a cheap repair.
The nylon cooling fan has a chunk out of one blade. It's probably cracked as a result of impacting something. If it is, it willl utimately fail and take out the radiator. (20 years working for the company that first produced fiberglass reinforced nylon fans in the USA. Formerly Kysor/Cadillac, now Borg Warner Thermal Systems) Vehicles that go off road are famous for picking up rocks in the front tires and flinging them at the back of the fan. Usually due to a poor or damaged inner fender system. Check for gravel at the radiator rear, down at the bottom.
That fan is fine..both of my trucks have a piece out like that and have for a decade or more..And I have seen more than I can remember with damage like that and in 15 years have never seen a fan come apart from anything like that.
One do you every pressure test the head to check for leaks to start with before pulling the head? Pull oil pan and look for coolant dripping, in this case there was no coolant in oil that you showed checking dip stick. But do you have a pressure test stand for just cylinder heads, at my dealer ship we could pressure test the head by it's self to find leaks, also powder tested them or crack die test! We had a spec shop that completely rebuilt cylinder heads.
I really like what you said regarding knowing the problem going into the repair. I am an appliance technician of 27 years and the intermittent problems or the nuanced problems that require a lot of diagnostic skill can be very overwhelming. Probably a lot worse when it comes to diesel engines then residential appliances I'd imagine.
Thanks!
Thanks so much and Happy New Year's.
I bought the smaller UV Beast light based on your previous recommendation. I was amazed at how well it works. The one we have at work only works when there's very little ambient light, it's pointed DIRECTLY at the leak, and using the special glasses.
Good to hear the music is back for the destruction of the week and outro.
We have been using aftermarket heads for a while now from a company called HHP with no problems whatsoever as always great video keep them coming
Thank you
I'm new to your channel! I worked on a 3408 CAT that had a cavitation leak (from poor coolant) BELOW BDC in the cylinder only found when we pulled pistons and pressurised the system!
Go with the gut,experience,thanks for the video.
Baby powder works great for finding oil leaks dust the suspect area and the leak will show up
I reckon if I put that dye in my Gardner and UV checked my washing machine at home it might even glow at home
It didn't show signs of burning coolant. I take it that the leak was in one of the exhaust ports of the head? Usually the pistons would look brand new clean when antifreeze is in the combustion chamber.
I myself on my truck. Don’t think aftermarket parts such as heads, major components make a lot of financial sense. Typically they don’t carry as good of a warranty and sometimes quality can be questionable. Also depends what your truck will be doing if you are building a everyday work truck that you have to count on reliability or are you building a pulling truck or drag truck that has to be reliable to start and run for a couple of pulls on a sled.
finally, something I'm a little familliar with. I may just have been the site driver, but logging equipment at least is familliar. you shoulda seen the beat-up old skidders we had to deal with. they had to be prodded to grease the thing!
1:40 It was 82 degrees Fahrenheit in northern VA today.
Always enjoy watching these. Appreciate you taking the time to make them
I dont understand this stuff all too well but good video thanks
It looks like a Coast flashlight with a UV bulb in it.
Josh, what high vis shirts do you wear? Need some good ones for work of a similar style
Sprayaway glass cleaner is top notch stuff.
I remember this one
cheers
Good job
The music is back!
you know your way around Engine’s?❤❤❤❤❤❤
exselente trabajo master mui bueno master
Called it on the dye
Might try to pressurize the crankcase with reverse vacuum cleaner block breather and spay soap/ water mix to find leak?
Coolant may be communicating between the cylinder(s) and cooling jacket
Love the videos & especially the methodical methods you use to troubleshoot. How about some CAT swag give aways to your subsscribers.
Happy Halloween!!
Hey bud. Just an idea. Watching your videos. Great stuff. I’ve noticed that people seem to be using the long life coolant (red). My Pete with the C15 is always had the Espar engine heater on it and was blowing seals in the espar. The rep came and even sent my heater right to the manufacturer in Germany. It came back as a fail due to the long last coolant. So i flushed the engine and put in the green. Never had an issue since. I wonder if many issue you are seeing are a result of that. Thx
Just did a Volvo with the same symptoms and the problem was a injector cup
Great video
1812 and William Tell are back.
The music is BACK!!!
Did you find any problem with that non cat head?
8:02 music is back for DOTW?
That dye for the oil looks like ac leak dye. Same stuff maybe?
It's basically the same thing. The difference is mostly just the oil, the dye is suspended in. That oil has to be compatible with the oil in the machine.
Could it be a leaking injector sleeve?....
Josh, thanks for your videos, they are very informative.
Just have one question on C15s; I talked to a guy that pulls double grain trailers, and I asked him what he had for the engine. He said it is a C15 set to 675 horsepower and 2,300 ft lb of torque. I asked him if that was a factory setting, and he said yes, but that it was not programmed by a Cat dealer. Is this horsepower / torque setting a factory setting, and can you get this much horsepower and torque reliably out of a C15?
On an ACERT C15, the highest factory setting was q 625 HP, 2050 torque. Going from a 550 to a 600 or 625 HP legally is a nightmare. First you need a transmission and clutch. Then you need a larger radiator, fan and fan shroud. Extra radiator brace across the engine. A different surge tank and an extra over flow tank, engine camshaft, EUI's, high psi turbo, flash and get Cat to give a TC the passwords.
Do you think one of those exhaust studs that are fully threaded maybe broke out and made a leak? Don't know just a guess but I'm betting there's a reason CAT only threads them half way. It would be interesting to do a pressure/post mortem on that head to see what happened. Keep the good stuff coming .
CAT should have three separate heads like old 855 Cummins.
C7 junk..
CAT using way to many Chinese parts at Counter I just got "made in China" at Stealership here in NY.
Many fed up with ripoff on service also .
I always loved CAT but today no more .
CAT should pay you for good tech help .
Excellent 👍
I love your videos man. Keep it up
Look for the predator blood
Are c16 a rare commodity on on highway applications
Most road trains in Australia use C16
Hexane is also known as mineral spirits.
I'm really kinda scared right now and could seriously use your advice Josh. I can't afford to parts cannon this bus atm. Diesel ECM sent me a rebuilt ECM with an engine ID of HEP15637 mine is an HEP26893. I question it and they say it will work. But yet it populated many codes I never had and 4 I did, but not all injector fault codes like before. Engine started and ran, populated codes, engine shuts down. Injection actuation pressure voltage high is of the 4 codes from before but my ground and 5v reference come back clean ECM to all 4 sensors. I'm at a loss 😞
No downloads showing on HEP15367, Several on HEP26893. The serial number is just a number. What flash file, FLS/FTS and on some engines the injector codes are important (some engines don't have injector codes). Then the secondary programming on how the truck is set up. The problem with the wrong serial number is only one should exist. It will affect a failure if it is under a warranty situation.
Since downloads exist on your ECM, I would want to see how this one is programmed. What faults are active if any and what is logged. Logged codes can be cleared and see what goes active. From what I can tell your REMAN part number should be 10R3571. If an ECM is corrupted, sometimes it cannot be removed out of the ECM. I had one recently that you could not change the fuel numbers as the ECM had a hi-jacked flash file in it. Also doing a data transfer out of another ECM download can carry that corruption into your current ECM. If I that the data is corrupt, I do not save a copy (electronically) when I hook up to it. Those have to be entered manually into the replacement ECM.
@@johngoldsmith6629 I've learned a lot very quickly in the last couple of months since purchasing this bus 😄😞 On my original ECM the 6 injector fault codes are logged and not active and I may have very well repaired those myself when I completely went thru my injector harness from ECM to injectors. However 4 active codes remained including my injector pressure actuation sensor within the 4 codes crucial codes populating on my original ECM. All high codes indicating open connection rather than low codes that would indicate shorting. I apologize for the late response, I received no notification of replies to my inquiry. Upon installing the used ECM sold to me for 2k, within the first minute of starting and running the used ECM populated the same 4 codes plus additional communication codes I never had before but no injector fault codes. I was only able to acquire active codes thru flash code read, when I hooked up a handheld it immediately warned of communication errors and would not give me active codes but however did give me the VIN, engine code, and software version. This was how I obtained the used ECM information before acquiring a PSR on that ECM which confirmed I recorded the multiple flash codes correctly (what a pain). Mean while my bus is and still is setting on state property and being 6.5 hrs away from my home without my electrical diag and repair equipment causing even more frustration being reliant on the opinions of others and their equipment. I made the decision of requesting a refund and my original ECM returned (still waiting for it to happen). I expected some kind of restocking fee ect... But not 30% plus 200 which brings it to an 800 loss for nothing!! If I had understood the language, how to understand what my original ECM was telling me I may have never sent my ECM in for repairs in the first place. Especially to receive a used ECM that was not correct for my square top Heui system. I have less than 15 days to get my bus moved or it will be impounded (not good with the surprise title issues, which can be rectified but not without time involved). Very scary especially now running on fumes financially from all this. I have pretty well narrowed it down to body side ECM harness issues, because I've gone thru every single wire on the engine, load testing ect... to make sure I haven't missed anything there. But the body harness is a bit more of a pain with fuel and air lines running over the top in an already very tight area situation. Initial power and ground tests were good but that load testing to reveal bad, corroded, or broken connection areas on all 70+ wires on the body harness side. I feel my problem has been there all along. But right now I wait on the return of funds and original ECM to go back down for a 3rd attempt with all of my equipment so I am reliant on no one but myself to either repair or find someone to haul it home for me. All the while running on fumes because I'm 8k in on a bus only worth a 1000 not running. I'm trying very hard to be patient and not lose my head especially when I'm a very precise technician. In my field as an auto of 35 yrs I have a reputation of fixing those problems no one else seems to be able to figure out and give up on without parts cannon the problem to get lucky. Electrical and mechanical (engine rebuild/overhaul) are my primary skill sets in the automotive field. I'm questioning the service I received from Diesel ECM because before I sent my original ECM in for a flash or repair I had opened the core up and inspected my board for visible issues of which there were none. No darkened burnt spots, no lamination issues and or an electrical smell of death commonly found with burnt out electronics. I also documented everything with notes and pics as per my normal methods when tracking down issues others give up on. I just hope and pray right now that my original ECM and refund shows up within the next day or so, so I can get back down there with my equipment and no one in my ear so I can hopefully quickly find the problem and get it moving again. Otherwise I'm stuck trying to find someone kind enough to haul it home for what little I have left right now. 😞😞😞 I've learned a lot however costly it has ultimately become and I will never be caught with my pants down again!!! Commercial truck and body closed their doors after working with them for 6yrs. I've been in the automotive field for 35yrs before that. This was my chance to break free and take it easy for the remainder of this journeys walk. Yrs of working for peanuts in a field not friendly to the body has taken its toll as much as I have loved doing this kind of work over the yrs. But now I will have to return for a time to rebuild what I have lost in the process of all this.
What was wrong with the old head?
So customer states he's burning coolant, but what he's really saying is that he's LOSING coolant and assuming its being burned.
Wouldn't you want to pressurize the cooling system and look for external leaks before you just tear the head off??
You can lose a lot of coolant through external leaks that only leak when the cooling system is pressurized.
Also while the system is pressurized (preferably overnight) you would drop the pan and look up into the bottom of the bores to verify that your actually losing coolant internally(running down between piston and liner) and which cylinder/cylinder's are the problem.
These are the first things i thought of while watching this.
May be a small hydraulic leak depending on the systems and size
So what do you think about those?
Lang compression tester adapters are dummy, injector testers
About 2 years ago, after 40 plus years at this got an oscilloscope. Best use so far has been Relative Compression Tests (RCT). Takes me maybe 10 minutes but I’m old and slow. Instantly shows weak cylinders. Figuring out which takes a bit longer. When starting diag on say a power complaint it’s one of the first things I do. Prevents wasting time on other steps. Have found 3 bad so far. The hotshot car guys have been using them for decades. Waaayyyy faster than mechanical tests.
Are these jobs warranty?
👍
What part of idaho are you from?
How did you get that stream effect out of the nozzle of your solvent sprayer? As opposed to a fan/mist pattern?
Take the nozzle sprayer apart and there's a brass/bronze piece in it. Take that out and reassemble.
Take the tip off. There's a diffuser in there
Q. for ya..... could you not use a smoke machine in place of the die?? i have herd of some people using this with good success. what would be you thoughts on this??
Up to you, I like using the uv dye for the simplicity of not having to set up the smoke machine and using some adapter that I probably don't have lol
You need to go to Radio work , with that voice. 😊
😎👍
Expensive fix. Good for another million miles?
👍👍🏾👍🏻
Looooooong ones pls👍
Cat power eating Cummins and shitting detroits since 1925 😎
Less talk more action
Longer 😊
This is funny because Cummins oil dye glows orange lmao. Which is not ideal for a red motor
i have been emailing you to get soem info ....wodering if my emails r gettn thru...Len
Without positively identifying the problem with the after market head that is just a parts monkey operation. Hope you resolved it though.
Throw parts at it till your broke
@@daleolson3506 Been there done that, got all the shirts I care to get. 😑
First
Log trucks are the biggest POS abused and neglected trucks I've ever seen. Steer clear.
They definitely live a rough life, even with the good owner/ops
I hope your employer pays you what youre worth.
you have a very bad habit stop unbolting heads willy nilly you should know you unbolt in the opposite of tightening pattern,
I generally unbolt them from outside inwards, not "willy nilly." Never been a problem, do whatever you want on what you work on.
Hanlon's Razor: _"Never attribute [something] to malice [if it can be] adequately explained by stupidity."_