Bandai 1/5000 Star Destroyer model build Pt I
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Pt I of this build covers some painting, lighting and beginning of some assembly.
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I love the Bandai kits and wish they would make more of them again.
Yes. About time they did some new Star Wars kits and re- released some old ones
I've just ordered a B-Wing fighter from Bandai that has a Revell sticker on the bottom corner of the box . I guess that's how they are getting around the license agreement.
Thanks Chris, great work. Looking forward to the next installment.
Great build Chris looking forward to part 2
Very cool Chris. Thanks for sharing! 😎🇨🇦
Very cool Chris!!!!
Boy that Star Destroyer would look so nice on my desk. Great work!
Outstanding work!!! For a small kit it looks great. Can't wait to see part 2.
Looking forward to part 2 to see how the model turns out. Despite seeing your model (and having a pre-built model myself) I can't think of a scene in the movies where all 7 engines are lit up, unless it's in one of the Disney plus shows.
The first time all 7 engines are lit is when the destroyer goes to light speed in Empire after dumping the garbage with the Falcon. I believe because the add'l 4 are for light speed. But then all the destroyers have all engines lit in the big Endor space battle. So who knows.
@@modelsbychris I stand corrected. I dug out my old VHS version of the movies and checked them against the Blu-rays. For the number of times I've seen these movies, I've never noticed all the engines lit up.
I have this model in a wardrobe just waiting for me to put together. Thanks for this series ;)
Fantastic work Chris … amazing eye for detail !! 👏👏👏
Great video - very inspiring! Looking forward to P.2.
GREAT build so far. Did mine right when they came out a few years back , now I wish I had known about those COB LED Strips instead of normal LED strips!
I would have liked to see someone choosing the clear parts for a change, having said that, very nice job with that model.
I will looking forward for the conclusion in the next video
The clear parts are redundant since they already have holes for the windows. There is no point in using them because they only will make light blocking more difficult.
@@stevethefishdotnet
I recently got this exact edition of the model from someone moving out of town at a great price (the equivalent of $85).
I thought that an experienced modeler could take advantage of the clear parts, but I have not seen anyone on YT do it, it seems redundant to everyone.
Possibly a better choice for this model could have been to use translucent parts and instead of perforations, plastic areas so thin that in the light they look like windows, something like what they use in some star trek models since Bandai has the technology to pull something like that......oh well.
@@vvaldo314 Back when this Star Destroyer model first came out, I did an unboxing for my channel. I saw how pointless the clear parts were since it already had holes, so I made sure to only buy the regular version for myself to save money. I also intend to do my own lights for the kit anyway.
Thank you about this new video Chris 👍
Looking great so far.
Nice work and lightning options!! 👍👍
Amazing as always my friend!
Looking awesome 👍
Finally! Curious how it will turn out!
Hey Chris. I see you are using AS-20. From what I heard it's the go to substitute for what ILM used for their white colors. I decanted a can and put it through my airbrush but its coming out slightly too yellow, the tiniest bit but it's noticeable. I then read that Tamiya LP-35 Insignia White is also a good substitute. It's an ever so slightly cooler off white than the AS-20 I got. Have you heard anything about that?
I am currently painting a B-wing and some x-wings and it seems to be a better match than the AS-20. Maybe I got a bad can? Thoughts?
Never used the LP-35. I've always had good luck with the AS-20. I've never tried to decant a can though. As for shade between the 2, if they are slightly different, I guess that would just be a personal preference then as to which you like better. Once you weather and wash, it'll probably be more difficult to tell. That definitely can change the look.
Really cool 👍
Hi Chris are you wiring the engine bell led's in series, as if they were in parallel they would fickler in unison ?
Nice reviews and you made the built not so confusing. At 12.15, did you use AK pencils to shade those dark grey panels? If yes, which colours is that?
No, it's the Tamiya paint I mentioned.
Hi great review. So I'm thinking that you used black primer and then insignia white is to give it a grey tint? So could we just use grey colour itself instead or using 2 colours?
I used black for light blocking then white to reflect the light.
There is two versions this one that has lighting and a none lighting version
Both are the same size only difference is one has lights the other Dosnt
Yes. This was the limited edition lighted version, but I did not use their lights.
Are you using a warm white cob led?
No. Cool white
Hey Chris, nice work. I have a couple of questions. What are you using for the diffusing? Secondly… I want to know more about cob LEDs. I did some searches and they seem to come in fixed lengths. Can they be cut to length? Or must you use the given length they are made in? Are you getting the 3volt versions? Any recommended places to source them from? Thanks in advance!
Is photo diffusion paper. You can get from Amazon. Mine is Lee diffusion paper.
The COB steps can be cut every 1 or 1/2 inch depending on the strip you get. And the come in warm or cool white. I use 5v, but the find in 9 and 12v as well. Don't think you can get in 3v because you wouldn't be able to run off of battery. I get mine from Amazon.
1 inch cuttable cool white. amzn.to/3UlmgFt
1/2 cuttable cool white. amzn.to/3Uo2XLC
@@modelsbychris Hey Chris, thanks for this info! This is a huge help to me. I will look into buying from the sources you mentioned and that is great to hear that they are cuttable. 9 volt would be perfect. That is my preferred power source and voltage. If you don’t mind, one more question. Do COB LEDs have current limiting within the filament? Or do you need to add that externally? And if it is internal, do you need to make current limiting adjustments once you cut it?
Thanks again and I enjoy your builds. I am subscribed.
@@stevebak6664 I just cut and feed it 5v direct. With COB, I believe each LED had its own resistor and such. They also run super cool. I've not felt any heat whatsoever, even after being on a while and holding the strip on my hand.
@@modelsbychris Chris, that’s awesome. I will try this on my current project. Thanks again!
It sucks the Bandai version is so small. Wish it was at least 2/3 as big as the Revell if not the same size.
Agreed. Although it's a good size for me since I'm running out of room.
the Tamiya kit has better detail than the Revell kit. (Zveda)
i meant Bandai
Hey Chris, could you post a link to what material you use for diffusion? Is it trace paper?
The paper I have I got in a store in LA, not online. You could certainly use tracing paper or even tissue paper, like for gift bags.
Parchment paper works quite well too
@@shanelamb4905 I have tried that before also
Flickering propulsion doesn't really look right. In the movies, they are steady state in power delivery and under control. To me, flickering makes it look like they are having problems.