Cool story about Schluter: I called the store where I bought some pebble mosaic for our shower floor. No spec sheet so just wanted to see what trowel size they recommended. A “manager” ended up taking my call and told me I should really have a professional do the install. “Lady, I took work off tomorrow to lay this floor. I called to talk to someone competent, not be told I can’t do it.” Then I remembered I had the regional Schluter guy’s number. Texted him and got a response within 5 minutes. Not only that but he said he happened to be in town and could swing by tomorrow to show me a knockdown method that’s helpful for laying pebble mosaic. This guy showed up, showed how to mix All Set, gave me a trowel to keep, some tshirts, a hat, profile gauge, etc. Even gave me a seal I still needed to pick up. Outstanding! Find out your local/regional rep’s info.
Cody, I thought the same thing but the newer pans hold up just fine. Maybe not the first ones they came out with so much. Also, using pretty much flat cut so no worries at all. You’re right maybe actual river rock could be worrisome because of pressure points.
@Matt The Builder. I understand how they work I build showers everyday theres a thing called load point I've tore out plenty of foam pans with penny rounds and even a couple with river rock that's why I said somthing tile work and shower work isnt a race so to build a whole bathroom in 2 hours means nothing to me
Foam pans are really sketchy for small tile like pebbles. May work, but if a ladder gets placed on the edge of one, or a lady in high heels (you never know) tiles will punch through the foam . Not sure you noticed but we we did a large format with a envelope cut on this one. Stay tuned for that video! Love the discussions guys and thank you for keeping it civil.
@Matt The Builder. I would care less about a day less honestly I build my pans out of deck mud and can GARENTEE you theres no issues with load points the tile game isnt a race in my oppinion it's about quality and a long lasting job that's never going to fail I would never use pebbles penny rounds or anything smaller than a 2x2 on any foam pan its foam dude dont care how strong you think the pans are what if someone puts a ladder on it when your not there that's just asking for a failure then who has to fix it you do. Another thing is the subfloor has to be perfectly level to use those pans which is hardly ever the case there is to many variables that come into play when using foam when a deck mud pan is much much better
I would wrap the corners of the pan before adding the angle bench seat to prevent any leakage. I like how you decided to lay on top of the shower pan instead of cutting back the pan.
I’ve done several dozen of these at minimum, and I approve of this. I like a lower, narrower curb, I use k-board for custom specs. Often as narrow as 7 cm. And 7-10 cm high. I always float over the finished pan with at least a skim. You can use a small notch over that and fill next day to make pressure point resistant under smaller mosaic, but for 2” just a skim is sufficient. Thanks
Isaac the Tile Coach & Jeff Thorman - I’m living in a different world thanks to you guys, by literally changing our living space, improving our home, with a healthy dose of added self-confidence in knowing I’m doing the job right. Grandfathers would be so proud. ❤
Going to be doing my shower here in the next month. Wish me luck. I am planning on using the kerdi kit because making my own pan seems out of my comfort zone.
I have been doing home improvements for over 30 years bath and kitchens are my specialty, I use rapid set for all my shower pans I put it in dry and form it dry and use a pump sprayer to dampen it all down so it hardens and I set the tile the same day after red guarding everything twiceI’ve never had a leak or any call backs I acquired my own techniques by using a pump sprayer and mixing concrete and mortar together ! You are the only UA-cam channel I’ve ever subscribe to and probably the last but I do appreciate how technical you are with all of your work just curious what did your father do for a living or is he in the trades as well? I wish you well brother😎
I have done these a few times, one trick I like is cut off an extra 2" then take your scrap and cut 2" off that, then put the 2" scrap piece against the wall for a nice flat perimeter. Eliminates the bowl effect at the edges. Sheet membrane over top.
Looks good. The only thing I do different is I work from the bottom up in order to lap over the previous corners for watershed. Totally not necessary, but I do it for piece of mind.
Thanks Coach!! I am getting ready to install and tile a curbless shower with Schuler materials and gaining more confidence with each video I watch of yours. Getting excited to actually get in there and get to work!
I used to use schluter for all my bathrooms for my customers and switched to wedi a couple years ago....... After watching this I be realized how much I hated schluter. Time consuming and I thought that you did a ton of videos showing how they fail and leak? I'm surprised that you still using it.
The most time consuming process. I still use this system but I'm getting my company to switch. I had a Schluter rep do a demo shower in our show room. You cannot avoid the buildup of fabric over fabric. I had to shave and thin out the back of the tile to get it to look decent.
This is a great video. It was very informative and it was entertaining. Tile Coach seems to have a nice personality and he's cute, too, so that made it even more enjoyable. I'll probably begin my Kerdi project in a couple of weeks. I've always used Durock or Wonderboard, but I think I'm going to like Schluter's products more than those.
I love Schluter but it’s so time consuming with layer after layer. After doing my fair share, I use the foam pans and niches and that’s it. Walls get green board with red guard waterproofing, corners get a high quality silicone.
I’ve been using this system for many years, zero call backs. I use Kerdi board, not the membrane. Much easier and fast! Always pass the shower pan test by local inspectors! Do not skip this step!
I love how this looks and the process. I just can’t afford their products! Wish I could for my DIY bathroom remodels. It helps my OCD watching you install this haha
Do the tile first and then silicone the foam bench in. You can use foam sheets and silicone them together to get your height. Then silicone underlayment to it and tile. Then if your bench fails it fails inside the shower and goes into the pan.
Why dint you put in the vertical pieces before the bench corners? I always start from the bottom and work up so the water can shed down just like a roof. One less way for the water to get in and have a failure, right?
My thoughts exactly.Mechanical water displacement > everything else ,except maybe word of God,but try to get a client to accept that kind of warranty...
Frank, does that mean you put the pan in first, then the corners, then the full membrane sheets? That way it all flows down into the pan? I'm about to do a shower and that's how I was thinking of doing it.
@@jucas85 yes. Pan membrane then banding and corners then wall membrane with banding in the vertical corners and so on up the wall just like a roof shingle system. I agree with that thought that water is going to flow downhill so if you give it a place to run under it possibly can
Pretty soon, you’re gonna be able to buy a kit that has a robot in the kit that’ll put that on the wall for you and you could just sit there and watch them do it lol
Schluter makes modified (all set) and unmodified (set). They specifically market Set for adhering membranes, and All set for over and under membranes and setting tile. The marketing material I read doesn’t differentiate when to use one or the other.
I have a ton of calls this year about this kind of install. They were done correctly but didn’t hold up. I just can’t agree it’s a great product. I do have customers who want this and I put my 2 cents in. But when I do my install I always run wires in key areas so I can come back 6 months 1 year later and check with a meter so I can see if anything is leaking. 1 area always do inside is the bench. I’ll admit a few guys I know are scared to run wire because if they check it and there’s water then there on the hook.
@@TileCoach I HATE CALL BACKS. They freak me out. I’ll spend the extra time. I know so many guys who have had call backs and it’s costly. The other thing I have learned and do all the time. Take pics of job. And at end give customers a binder with bill. Warranty info. Pics through job. They love it and has got me a lot of work. Anyway good video. I get a kick outta some and think omg what the hell you doing. Lol
Its sufficient that you installed the kerdi waterproof membrane vertical, but you should install the membrane horizontal starting from the bottom up with the upper membrane sheet over lapping the bottom sheet 2 to 3 inches. Installing the sheets horizontal allow for no seam work in the corners as the membrane wraps around the walls in one piece. Installing the membrane vertical allows for failure in the vertical corners. When installed horizontal with overlap you majorly reduce any chance of water damage as the water runs down the overlapping membrane. A perfect example is roofing paper. You install roofing paper horizontally from the bottom up, you do not install it vertically.
Hey Coach, i noticed you didnt apply any tape joints to the cement boards? Is it necessary? Im in the middle of my first DIY-tiles shower and stopped at the cement board. Love your vids-learning a ton!
Thanks for all your videos Isaac! I’m looking into remodeling a bathroom and I’m curious, how do you decide between using a kerdi kit like this or floating the pan like I see in a lot of your videos? I’ve been planning on floating it as you make it look so doable, but I’m curious to know how you decide between different approaches!
I see that you've not received a reply. The difference between using the foam pan from a mud bed is in your skill level. If you've never done a mud bed before you'll probably struggle with it and be better off doing the foam pan. If you're good with your hands you can most likely pull it off, but if you're newer to this and aren't used to the tools, or unsure when the mud is mixed correctly, you're going to wish you had used the foam. Pro's who do this for a living have likely done hundreds of showers and therefore make it look doable by anyone. Don't be deceived by the ease of which it looks. In my 35 plus years of experience the industry has changed dramatically, more so in the last decade than in the previous 5. Do it yourself shows and do it centers have driven the shift to do-it-yourselfer products which require less skill but generally deliver a more difficult or poorer installation. If you've never done this before it would be far better to hire a pro, but if your confident you can succeed then by all means give it a shot - the mud pan with Kerdi membrane over it is the better product. I don't however recommend the Kerdi drain. I prefer the flofx drain. Wish you the best!
I agree with everything the tile guru said. The one important thing he left out is that if you are going to use a foam pan! YOUR FLOOR MUST BE PERFECTLY LEVEL! If it is not you can have pooling and as we all know that’s failure just waiting to happen.
What type of drywall is that? Are your walls flat perfectly or does it matter that much. Your recommend Ardex 8+9 over the top from now on since kerdi can fail alone?
I believe he orginally used non-modified thinset covered with Ardex+9 to do his leak test, this is modified thinset which should be a more robust thinset and maybe not need 8+9
I watched all of the videos for Schulter and none talked about the mixing time of 18 total minutes. I wish I would have seen that before if did the work yesterday. Hope it doesn’t screw anything up. Mine was way messy and since I placed it on Concrete backer it sucked up the water and it disintegrated stay as wet as yours. It looks good but now I have my concerns now after watching your video. Took a lot longer than expected.
I think I would have taken the extra time and re -framed where the niche goes to get it centred, and avoid that little strip of tile at the corner. Another 45 minutes ,maybe ? Love the channel BTW.
I just watched another video of you floating the walls as opposed to use shulter. You said you are going back to floating walls, floating wall is old school hard work but it saves more time really than shluter because with schulter, you always end up fighting the walls if they are not squared, plumb or level by installing shims, playing with thinset around etc. Which one would you guys recommend? Floating walls or schulter? Can you float wall with 2 sides only (corner wall) ? Or does it have to have 3 walls (enclosed). Help a newbie out.
Loved the tutorial and I’m in the trades so most of this is a refresh for me but have one question Should the bench corners and and seam corners have been overlapping in a shingle fashion to let the water off the bench flow past the seams ? Bench legs first then outside corners then top seam from the inside corner out
@@aunderiskerensky2304 There is no avoiding it anyway unless you do the wall membrane AFTER the bench which would be done AFTER the floor...and even then you still have a reverse lap on the drain.
The shower floors and those kids do not work well with small pebble tiles or 2 x 2 small tiles you could actually if you’re heavy enough push those tiles in standing on them in the shower and the curbs are foam who would want to foam curb I would want some kind of 2 x 4 for backing in there and I know they sell that butanyways not a big fan of the product but everybody’s using it so what are you gonna do?
Hey! Awesome videos, I just started my own tiling company and have not done my own showers yet but have a lot of them to do, do you think you could do a complete video of demo to taking faucets off and hooking back up and using all schluter products? Thanks
Hello Love your videos. They are very informative and help with decision making. I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer for. Do you know if kerdi membrane can be applied over VOG (vinyl over gypsum) panels that are used in mobile/manufactured homes?
Well done video with easy to understand and see the process. Loved the shared details on types of mortar, trowels etc. 2 questions, what is a reasonable post mix "bucket time" for the mortar used in this video? Do you have any tips to share on larger showers, 10x5 footprint, and whether the entire area should be sloped or just 3 to 4 ft around the lateral drain. Thank You!
@TileCoach I'm mid build of a hybrid Densshield tile back walls, hardi hydrodefense backer board bench seat, with Kerdi band and corners at the seams, schluter pan and curb, and ardex 8+9 everything. Is there anything I should be concerned about over a strict Schluter build? I am not concerned about the warranty of the product just the functionality and waterproofness.
This shower was built with components that the homeowner purchased already, and since I was flying in from out of state, I could not find the products I like to use locally.. As you've seen in my videos, I build my own showers a little different.
Hey TileCoach, you've mentioned on your Oct 2020 Schluter Kerdi Shower Kit-Tutorial video that Schluter now allowed/used modified thin-set for the Kerdi membrane, but the handbook I just downloaded (page 43, Thin-set Facts) from Schluter's website for the Kerdi install still recommend "Unmodified thin-set", and does not recommend using Modified thin-set. Is it because they haven't updated their handbook? Can you confirm so I use the correct thin-set for my Kerdi membrane install?
The Schluter All Set is warranted with a lifetime warranty. Schluter didn’t make thin set, and couldn’t warrant others products as not all modified thin sets can be used with membranes.
All set is modified but with exact specific tolerances during manufacturing especially for schluter.. so by all means, I buy all set and bite the bullet on its expense !!
Perhaps a "dumb" question; how does just setting the drain in there do the trick? I feel like if the drain ever starts to backup/drain slow its not water tight where it sits like that. What am I missing?
I am going to tackle a shower renovation at home and use the Schluter Kerdi Board. I have a few questions I was hoping you could answer. I was thinking of using the Schluter Dilex AHK in the corners and along the floor where the wall tile meets the shower floor tile. Would that work since it is made of aluminum? Also, after installing the Schluter shower pan, do you tile the walls first or the shower floor first?
If you hadn’t trimmed the bottom of the bench, it would have had the same slope as the floor (which could be a good thing). It might have been better to trim the vertical pieces, but maybe the build-up from thin set is Shluter’s reason for recommending it there.
Great video!!In my shower area, we had to apply "water resistant greenboard" is was finished with drywall mud as I believe regular drywall is finished, after that we applied one coat of "Kilz 2" primer. Would you feel confident applying the Kerdi membrane over primed grrenboard?
Coach---Time out. You have to seal the pan-wall connection behind the bench BEFORE you install it. Waterproofing is all about redundancy, I never have my tile setter install my pans (no offense). I use my waterproofer with Gaco 5320 & UB64 product. Keep up the good work.
I have the same system and putting aqua-defense on top of it. I understand it ruins the warranty but I am afraid I will have pinholes. What do you think of that idea? Do u think it will help?
I have seen a lot of people doing it with various products (including Tile Coach). My opinion, if you don't trust the system without adding something else then you probably should not use it. Secondly, I can't think of any situation where two layers of waterproofing is a good idea...it will always result in a mildew/mold sandwich.
I am seeing this video 2 years later. As far as I can tell Schluter instructions are still saying to use un-modified thin-set for the membrane joints. They say to use one of their three products (which includes "All-Set" which is in fact "modified") OR "an un-modified thin-set". So basically they are saying only THEIR modified stuff is good to use right? If lets say I was not interested in keeping the warranty, then other manufacturers modified thin-set should probably be fine? I like the idea of the no sand version made by Laticrete, Multimax Lite for reducing corner build-up.
Schluter found out after studying the drying/cure time of mortars being used with their waterproofing membrane products, that it takes up to 60 days in some cases, to fully cure modified thinset. So they switched up everything to Un-modified thinset. Even with porcelain tiles, which was supposed to be not approved via TCNA ANSI standards but whatever.
I have a shower built 2 years ago with the foam pan from Schluter. I used 2" octagon tiles and have had 4 adults using it on a daily basis. One of said adults is just shy of 400 lbs. The joists in the room were all sistered for additional support and the subfloor is 3/4 plywood glued and screwed. I have had zero issue with any of the tile or grout joints cracking however I am seeing the caulk around the edges starting to degrade.
Enjoy all your vids & really like listening to you, especially when you tell stories😁 Do have a question at.... 36:24 Would overlapping the other way, direction, be ok? Meaning, start with front corners & work way to the back corner, so it creates an overlap the opposite way you’ve done here (so, what your doing here “last” in this particular timestamp, would be first; for this particular setup/design of shower w/ these benches). Wondering if this is bad, or kinda doesn’t matter? Thanks for the videos, & always there for us, much appreciated Isaac😊 So hope this makes sense to you, as can be kinda hard to explain at times😉 Cheers🤙🏼
I am installing my first Schluter Shower kit and it is an 38" x 60" offset. The plumber roughed in the drain in the concrete slab too close to the wall. It is approximately 4.5 inches from the center of the drain hole of the foam floor from Schluter. The only options I can think of are to dig out the concrete and add a fitting to create the right angle or to build a small platform to do the same thing. Is there any advice on the best way to do this? Or do I scrap the Schluter system and figure out how to form a shower floor from scratch? I am not a professional, but an experienced DIYer, (I know that is not a word). Thanks
You do not say which direction the hole is off. If it is still centered in the 38" width but is 4.5 inches too close to the plumbing wall, for example, you can cut the 4.5" off that end of the foam pan, set it over the drain location per instructions and then fill the remaining gap on the other end of the foam pan with dry-pack or concrete. In my case my shower was 6" longer than the foam pan to begin with so I took a scrap piece of the 1/2" foam I used on the walls and set it in thin-set to match the slope of the pan and sealed it together with banding. If however your misalignment puts it out of alignment with the wall fixtures etc...you may want to relocate the drain as you say.
I am confused !! which system do you actually stand behind?? when it comes to shower pans, do you Hot Mop?, use Hydroban ? Schulter ? Foam or drypack slope to drain??? wood curb or synthetic curb material so it won't ever stand a chance to rot out. Please comment on what system of waterproofing a shower you would prefer to use ( on a concrete slab by the way) no wood subfloor. Thank you
Hi doing a schluter shower..l am wondering if you still recommend adding the hydroban cementicous over the schluter (at least for the pan and 10 inches up the sides for the waterproofing?
What's up tile coach? Love your videos! I have a question. I'm redoing my bathroom and using Kerdi board. I've seen a bunch of videos where people are using a 1/4" notch on the wall of the shower and then buttering the back of the tile with a 1/4 inch notch also. Is this correct? Seems like a lot to me. Is this something specific for Kerdi board? I did my bathroom 15 years ago with an 1/8 in notch to cement board and I have had no problems since install, with water or anything. I also didn't do any of the fancy water proofing paint. That's the way I was taught in the 90's to do showers. Mind you, I don't do this for a living, last time I tiled was 15 years ago, lol but I do a way better job then some of the things I've seen in you videos. I can't believe some of the things you have showed on your channel. Thank you in advance for any input. 👍
Hi, I bought schluter shower kit, and after I saw your video where you tested kerdi system with sprinclers for 7 days and it failed, got dissapointed. In the latest video I see you've used schluter mix with it, do you think with their modifided mix it will be safe?
Question on overlapping the kerdi band to seams....it seems it would be better to first kerdi membrane the pan, then overlap band and corners to the pan and wall board, then last apply kerdi wall membrane and overlap that over the kerdi band at pan perimeter. This way everything is overlapped in a way that water never flows directly into a seam. I dont get why they seam together the membrane in a way where water directly flows towards a seam joint. I get the technology of kerdi how in bonds between thinset during the curing process but its too risky for me considering thinset isnt waterproof.
Could you go back over the bands and where there are joints with Ardex 8+9 to add an additional waterproofing "piece of mind"? I assume if you'd use it and it failed Schluter won't cover it with a warranty, of course.
Cool story about Schluter: I called the store where I bought some pebble mosaic for our shower floor. No spec sheet so just wanted to see what trowel size they recommended. A “manager” ended up taking my call and told me I should really have a professional do the install. “Lady, I took work off tomorrow to lay this floor. I called to talk to someone competent, not be told I can’t do it.” Then I remembered I had the regional Schluter guy’s number. Texted him and got a response within 5 minutes. Not only that but he said he happened to be in town and could swing by tomorrow to show me a knockdown method that’s helpful for laying pebble mosaic. This guy showed up, showed how to mix All Set, gave me a trowel to keep, some tshirts, a hat, profile gauge, etc. Even gave me a seal I still needed to pick up. Outstanding! Find out your local/regional rep’s info.
Pebbles on a foam pan😬
Cody, I thought the same thing but the newer pans hold up just fine. Maybe not the first ones they came out with so much. Also, using pretty much flat cut so no worries at all. You’re right maybe actual river rock could be worrisome because of pressure points.
@Matt The Builder. I understand how they work I build showers everyday theres a thing called load point I've tore out plenty of foam pans with penny rounds and even a couple with river rock that's why I said somthing tile work and shower work isnt a race so to build a whole bathroom in 2 hours means nothing to me
Foam pans are really sketchy for small tile like pebbles. May work, but if a ladder gets placed on the edge of one, or a lady in high heels (you never know) tiles will punch through the foam . Not sure you noticed but we we did a large format with a envelope cut on this one. Stay tuned for that video! Love the discussions guys and thank you for keeping it civil.
@Matt The Builder. I would care less about a day less honestly I build my pans out of deck mud and can GARENTEE you theres no issues with load points the tile game isnt a race in my oppinion it's about quality and a long lasting job that's never going to fail I would never use pebbles penny rounds or anything smaller than a 2x2 on any foam pan its foam dude dont care how strong you think the pans are what if someone puts a ladder on it when your not there that's just asking for a failure then who has to fix it you do. Another thing is the subfloor has to be perfectly level to use those pans which is hardly ever the case there is to many variables that come into play when using foam when a deck mud pan is much much better
I would wrap the corners of the pan before adding the angle bench seat to prevent any leakage. I like how you decided to lay on top of the shower pan instead of cutting back the pan.
Best way tile walls n shower pan then do the corner bench on top of tile
@@marcopoulin1897interesting.. I’m getting ready to do this exact same layout in my shower at home.. why tile all first before the bench ?
I’ve done several dozen of these at minimum, and I approve of this. I like a lower, narrower curb, I use k-board for custom specs. Often as narrow as 7 cm. And 7-10 cm high. I always float over the finished pan with at least a skim. You can use a small notch over that and fill next day to make pressure point resistant under smaller mosaic, but for 2” just a skim is sufficient. Thanks
Isaac the Tile Coach & Jeff Thorman - I’m living in a different world thanks to you guys, by literally changing our living space, improving our home, with a healthy dose of added self-confidence in knowing I’m doing the job right. Grandfathers would be so proud. ❤
I can’t wait to start mine! Thank you for being my tile coach, and I love you back!
You got this!
Going to be doing my shower here in the next month. Wish me luck. I am planning on using the kerdi kit because making my own pan seems out of my comfort zone.
MAN ! You're just a regular old Schluter Mcgavin over there! Good yob meng!
9:32 - Umlaut lesson on a shower tutorial! I love you guys!
I have been doing home improvements for over 30 years bath and kitchens are my specialty, I use rapid set for all my shower pans I put it in dry and form it dry and use a pump sprayer to dampen it all down so it hardens and I set the tile the same day after red guarding everything twiceI’ve never had a leak or any call backs I acquired my own techniques by using a pump sprayer and mixing concrete and mortar together ! You are the only UA-cam channel I’ve ever subscribe to and probably the last but I do appreciate how technical you are with all of your work just curious what did your father do for a living or is he in the trades as well? I wish you well brother😎
I have done these a few times, one trick I like is cut off an extra 2" then take your scrap and cut 2" off that, then put the 2" scrap piece against the wall for a nice flat perimeter. Eliminates the bowl effect at the edges. Sheet membrane over top.
Kerdi trowel is awesome, well made and comfortable! Think Rubi makes them
I’ve had to endure 6 schluter classes/demos over the years lol it does make things easy though
Looks good. The only thing I do different is I work from the bottom up in order to lap over the previous corners for watershed. Totally not necessary, but I do it for piece of mind.
Thanks Coach!! I am getting ready to install and tile a curbless shower with Schuler materials and gaining more confidence with each video I watch of yours. Getting excited to actually get in there and get to work!
So did you screw it up yet?
I used to use schluter for all my bathrooms for my customers and switched to wedi a couple years ago....... After watching this I be realized how much I hated schluter. Time consuming and I thought that you did a ton of videos showing how they fail and leak? I'm surprised that you still using it.
The most time consuming process. I still use this system but I'm getting my company to switch. I had a Schluter rep do a demo shower in our show room. You cannot avoid the buildup of fabric over fabric. I had to shave and thin out the back of the tile to get it to look decent.
Exactly overpriced plastic
Most informative video yet on this system. Honestly tho, i love red guard. Way frickin easier and faster.
This is a great video. It was very informative and it was entertaining. Tile Coach seems to have a nice personality and he's cute, too, so that made it even more enjoyable. I'll probably begin my Kerdi project in a couple of weeks. I've always used Durock or Wonderboard, but I think I'm going to like Schluter's products more than those.
I love Schluter but it’s so time consuming with layer after layer. After doing my fair share, I use the foam pans and niches and that’s it. Walls get green board with red guard waterproofing, corners get a high quality silicone.
I’ve been using this system for many years, zero call backs. I use Kerdi board, not the membrane. Much easier and fast! Always pass the shower pan test by local inspectors! Do not skip this step!
How many years?
@@DeLuca101 many
@@chrisjarry6567 what about 25 years?
Thank You for this Video, helped me get my shower done in 2021, Thanks Again
How is it doing ? Leaking?
I love how this looks and the process. I just can’t afford their products! Wish I could for my DIY bathroom remodels. It helps my OCD watching you install this haha
I just ordered a bunch of schluter for another shower today from Pro-x in Bonners Ferry. Haha. Small world. I live 20 mins south.
Awesome!
Do the tile first and then silicone the foam bench in. You can use foam sheets and silicone them together to get your height. Then silicone underlayment to it and tile. Then if your bench fails it fails inside the shower and goes into the pan.
Lol bench was made in germany
(Proceeds to wipe off thinset)
Lol i love it
Why dint you put in the vertical pieces before the bench corners?
I always start from the bottom and work up so the water can shed down just like a roof.
One less way for the water to get in and have a failure, right?
Kerdi doesn’t require shingle overlapping, but it may be worth it for peace of mind
My thoughts exactly.Mechanical water displacement > everything else ,except maybe word of God,but try to get a client to accept that kind of warranty...
Frank, does that mean you put the pan in first, then the corners, then the full membrane sheets? That way it all flows down into the pan? I'm about to do a shower and that's how I was thinking of doing it.
@@jucas85 yes.
Pan membrane then banding and corners then wall membrane with banding in the vertical corners and so on up the wall just like a roof shingle system.
I agree with that thought that water is going to flow downhill so if you give it a place to run under it possibly can
@@jucas85 yes
@TileCoach How many bags of all set did you use including installing the tile?
Nice job my guy very informative
Pretty soon, you’re gonna be able to buy a kit that has a robot in the kit that’ll put that on the wall for you and you could just sit there and watch them do it lol
If you mix All Set at 300rpms your open time can be up to 4hrs. Mix it slow and easy!
I use mapei ultralight S1 which has a basic open time of 8 hours +
Mixing slow and ofcourse 2 times with a 4 min. Break in between.
Using it right now. 3-4 hours depending....
hi great work congrats to all the team
Schluter makes modified (all set) and unmodified (set). They specifically market Set for adhering membranes, and All set for over and under membranes and setting tile. The marketing material I read doesn’t differentiate when to use one or the other.
I have a ton of calls this year about this kind of install. They were done correctly but didn’t hold up. I just can’t agree it’s a great product. I do have customers who want this and I put my 2 cents in. But when I do my install I always run wires in key areas so I can come back 6 months 1 year later and check with a meter so I can see if anything is leaking.
1 area always do inside is the bench.
I’ll admit a few guys I know are scared to run wire because if they check it and there’s water then there on the hook.
That shows confidence in your system. Respect. 👊
@@TileCoach
I HATE CALL BACKS. They freak me out.
I’ll spend the extra time. I know so many guys who have had call backs and it’s costly.
The other thing I have learned and do all the time. Take pics of job. And at end give customers a binder with bill. Warranty info. Pics through job.
They love it and has got me a lot of work.
Anyway good video. I get a kick outta some and think omg what the hell you doing. Lol
@Mike, question, what is "run wires"? I'm a DIY'r and haven't heard of this before. Thanks in advance for sharing.
Its sufficient that you installed the kerdi waterproof membrane vertical, but you should install the membrane horizontal starting from the bottom up with the upper membrane sheet over lapping the bottom sheet 2 to 3 inches. Installing the sheets horizontal allow for no seam work in the corners as the membrane wraps around the walls in one piece. Installing the membrane vertical allows for failure in the vertical corners. When installed horizontal with overlap you majorly reduce any chance of water damage as the water runs down the overlapping membrane. A perfect example is roofing paper. You install roofing paper horizontally from the bottom up, you do not install it vertically.
Hey Coach, i noticed you didnt apply any tape joints to the cement boards? Is it necessary?
Im in the middle of my first DIY-tiles shower and stopped at the cement board.
Love your vids-learning a ton!
Thanks for all your videos Isaac! I’m looking into remodeling a bathroom and I’m curious, how do you decide between using a kerdi kit like this or floating the pan like I see in a lot of your videos? I’ve been planning on floating it as you make it look so doable, but I’m curious to know how you decide between different approaches!
I see that you've not received a reply. The difference between using the foam pan from a mud bed is in your skill level. If you've never done a mud bed before you'll probably struggle with it and be better off doing the foam pan. If you're good with your hands you can most likely pull it off, but if you're newer to this and aren't used to the tools, or unsure when the mud is mixed correctly, you're going to wish you had used the foam. Pro's who do this for a living have likely done hundreds of showers and therefore make it look doable by anyone. Don't be deceived by the ease of which it looks. In my 35 plus years of experience the industry has changed dramatically, more so in the last decade than in the previous 5. Do it yourself shows and do it centers have driven the shift to do-it-yourselfer products which require less skill but generally deliver a more difficult or poorer installation. If you've never done this before it would be far better to hire a pro, but if your confident you can succeed then by all means give it a shot - the mud pan with Kerdi membrane over it is the better product. I don't however recommend the Kerdi drain. I prefer the flofx drain. Wish you the best!
I agree with everything the tile guru said. The one important thing he left out is that if you are going to use a foam pan! YOUR FLOOR MUST BE PERFECTLY LEVEL!
If it is not you can have pooling and as we all know that’s failure just waiting to happen.
You talked about Schluter using modified thinset but Doesn't Schluter specifically recommend unmodified thin set for kerdi membrane?
that's what their training video online said. but obviously when they're making their own they have to up those margins
Glad to see you using schlueter system!!! Now you shouldn't be doing repairs only installs
What type of drywall is that? Are your walls flat perfectly or does it matter that much. Your recommend Ardex 8+9 over the top from now on since kerdi can fail alone?
I believe he orginally used non-modified thinset covered with Ardex+9 to do his leak test, this is modified thinset which should be a more robust thinset and maybe not need 8+9
I watched all of the videos for Schulter and none talked about the mixing time of 18 total minutes. I wish I would have seen that before if did the work yesterday. Hope it doesn’t screw anything up. Mine was way messy and since I placed it on Concrete backer it sucked up the water and it disintegrated stay as wet as yours. It looks good but now I have my concerns now after watching your video. Took a lot longer than expected.
Ill wait till i see one of those showers last 30 years before i stop lathing scratching and floating over hot mop
Good job bro, you missed the final part, the last parts of the drain prior to install the floor 👍🏼
I think I would have taken the extra time and re -framed where the niche goes to get it centred, and avoid that little strip of tile at the corner. Another 45 minutes ,maybe ? Love the channel BTW.
He said he can't cuz there's a kitchen on the other side of that wall! you Jack wagon
I was surprised that Isaac didn’t kerdi ban the whole perimeter of the pan before installing the bench seat.. anyone else have a thought on this?
I love what the Schluter Shower System does. I'm just tired of using it. Way too many steps and fabric over fabric = bumps period.
I just watched another video of you floating the walls as opposed to use shulter. You said you are going back to floating walls, floating wall is old school hard work but it saves more time really than shluter because with schulter, you always end up fighting the walls if they are not squared, plumb or level by installing shims, playing with thinset around etc. Which one would you guys recommend? Floating walls or schulter? Can you float wall with 2 sides only (corner wall) ? Or does it have to have 3 walls (enclosed).
Help a newbie out.
Floating walls is not for the inexperienced imo.
So the drain is just place there no need to glue anything?
I love the kurdi pans
Thanks!
Loved the tutorial and I’m in the trades so most of this is a refresh for me but have one question
Should the bench corners and and seam corners have been overlapping in a shingle fashion to let the water off the bench flow past the seams ?
Bench legs first then outside corners then top seam from the inside corner out
That’s how I do it
schluter guy literally told me "stop thinking like a roofer" as long as you have the 2 inch overlap either can be top its crazy.
@@aunderiskerensky2304 There is no avoiding it anyway unless you do the wall membrane AFTER the bench which would be done AFTER the floor...and even then you still have a reverse lap on the drain.
@@michaelreilly3347 yup yup. i haven't had a problem with it yet in over a decade so im going to keep on.
Great job as always, thank you,
Would have been nice to see how you did the corners, and the flange piece around the trim.
Is the Kerri fix and go board poly glue the same?
The shower floors and those kids do not work well with small pebble tiles or 2 x 2 small tiles you could actually if you’re heavy enough push those tiles in standing on them in the shower and the curbs are foam who would want to foam curb I would want some kind of 2 x 4 for backing in there and I know they sell that butanyways not a big fan of the product but everybody’s using it so what are you gonna do?
Hey! Awesome videos, I just started my own tiling company and have not done my own showers yet but have a lot of them to do, do you think you could do a complete video of demo to taking faucets off and hooking back up and using all schluter products? Thanks
Hello
Love your videos. They are very informative and help with decision making. I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer for. Do you know if kerdi membrane can be applied over VOG (vinyl over gypsum) panels that are used in mobile/manufactured homes?
Nice!!! Work
whats the material cost per sq ft without the tile?
Well done video with easy to understand and see the process. Loved the shared details on types of mortar, trowels etc. 2 questions, what is a reasonable post mix "bucket time" for the mortar used in this video? Do you have any tips to share on larger showers, 10x5 footprint, and whether the entire area should be sloped or just 3 to 4 ft around the lateral drain. Thank You!
how many bags Kerdi thinset were used for this project?
@TileCoach I'm mid build of a hybrid Densshield tile back walls, hardi hydrodefense backer board bench seat, with Kerdi band and corners at the seams, schluter pan and curb, and ardex 8+9 everything. Is there anything I should be concerned about over a strict Schluter build? I am not concerned about the warranty of the product just the functionality and waterproofness.
This shower was built with components that the homeowner purchased already, and since I was flying in from out of state, I could not find the products I like to use locally.. As you've seen in my videos, I build my own showers a little different.
Hey TileCoach, you've mentioned on your Oct 2020 Schluter Kerdi Shower Kit-Tutorial video that Schluter now allowed/used modified thin-set for the Kerdi membrane, but the handbook I just downloaded (page 43, Thin-set Facts) from Schluter's website for the Kerdi install still recommend "Unmodified thin-set", and does not recommend using Modified thin-set. Is it because they haven't updated their handbook? Can you confirm so I use the correct thin-set for my Kerdi membrane install?
The Schluter All Set is warranted with a lifetime warranty. Schluter didn’t make thin set, and couldn’t warrant others products as not all modified thin sets can be used with membranes.
As far as I can tell the only modified Thin-set you are allowed to use is their own brand...the ALL-SET is modified.
All set is modified but with exact specific tolerances during manufacturing especially for schluter.. so by all means, I buy all set and bite the bullet on its expense !!
Perhaps a "dumb" question; how does just setting the drain in there do the trick? I feel like if the drain ever starts to backup/drain slow its not water tight where it sits like that. What am I missing?
he forgot to glue it!
I've never water proofed the plumbing wall first.. I was taught to do back/side wall first then the 2 smaller walls.
Interesting preference
I am going to tackle a shower renovation at home and use the Schluter Kerdi Board. I have a few questions I was hoping you could answer. I was thinking of using the Schluter Dilex AHK in the corners and along the floor where the wall tile meets the shower floor tile. Would that work since it is made of aluminum? Also, after installing the Schluter shower pan, do you tile the walls first or the shower floor first?
If you hadn’t trimmed the bottom of the bench, it would have had the same slope as the floor (which could be a good thing). It might have been better to trim the vertical pieces, but maybe the build-up from thin set is Shluter’s reason for recommending it there.
If the pan is too short and you have to add mortar to the shower pan sides, do you still use the All-Set Schluter thin-set?
So what's better, using Kerdi or building the entire pan with sand? This looks easier. So is it equivalent?
What’s the coverage of a bag of schluter all set? Only thing Schluter gives is the overage when using it on Ditra nothing for coverage hanging Kerdi…
I wonder if you could make a custom tub using the kerdi board
Yes you can, as long as you cover all seams up with 2" overlap.
Why would you lol! Fk no!
Yes and it would be awesome
Lol.. how you going to slope it?
Can this kit be used by code on a 2nd level/story or higher?
If I want a large format shower floor what is the best way to go Schleuter or floated? Or other method you suggest btw great job
Great video!!In my shower area, we had to apply "water resistant greenboard" is was finished with drywall mud as I believe regular drywall is finished, after that we applied one coat of "Kilz 2" primer. Would you feel confident applying the Kerdi membrane over primed grrenboard?
Call the manufacturer, they are very helpful.
If using water resistant membrane, water resistant green board isn't necessary.
Every so often there's a tiler making a tiler dance on some big piece of flooring.
Any concern with a foam shower pan lasting decades?
@tilecoach I am using 1/2 inch hardie backer for walls. Do you want that all the way flush to subfloor even with shower tray?
Damn fine work👏👏👏!
You could have framed out a header and got that niche center without doing damage to the wall on the other side.
* an experienced remodel contractor probably could. If you havent done it before and your a tile guy eh maybe
Maybe, maybe not. He said it was a kitchen wall, it’s completely plausible that there were kitchen wall cabinets attached to those studs.
Coach---Time out. You have to seal the pan-wall connection behind the bench BEFORE you install it. Waterproofing is all about redundancy,
I never have my tile setter install my pans (no offense). I use my waterproofer with Gaco 5320 & UB64 product. Keep up the good work.
I have the same system and putting aqua-defense on top of it. I understand it ruins the warranty but I am afraid I will have pinholes. What do you think of that idea? Do u think it will help?
I have seen a lot of people doing it with various products (including Tile Coach). My opinion, if you don't trust the system without adding something else then you probably should not use it. Secondly, I can't think of any situation where two layers of waterproofing is a good idea...it will always result in a mildew/mold sandwich.
Crazy to see a local to me iowa product being used.
Why did your schluter stay grey? I got everything Schluter and it dryed white?
I am seeing this video 2 years later. As far as I can tell Schluter instructions are still saying to use un-modified thin-set for the membrane joints. They say to use one of their three products (which includes "All-Set" which is in fact "modified") OR "an un-modified thin-set". So basically they are saying only THEIR modified stuff is good to use right? If lets say I was not interested in keeping the warranty, then other manufacturers modified thin-set should probably be fine? I like the idea of the no sand version made by Laticrete, Multimax Lite for reducing corner build-up.
Wait....so know schluter says to use modified thin set?
Curious about this also. All the videos they have state to specifically use UN modified thinset. Has it changed?
@@Noold Schluter's new formula, called "All-set" is a modified thin set.
Schluter found out after studying the drying/cure time of mortars being used with their waterproofing membrane products, that it takes up to 60 days in some cases, to fully cure modified thinset. So they switched up everything to Un-modified thinset. Even with porcelain tiles, which was supposed to be not approved via TCNA ANSI standards but whatever.
Does the Kerdi Foam Pan have a weight limit?
I have a shower built 2 years ago with the foam pan from Schluter. I used 2" octagon tiles and have had 4 adults using it on a daily basis. One of said adults is just shy of 400 lbs. The joists in the room were all sistered for additional support and the subfloor is 3/4 plywood glued and screwed. I have had zero issue with any of the tile or grout joints cracking however I am seeing the caulk around the edges starting to degrade.
What kind of board did you use for a steam shower ?
Enjoy all your vids & really like listening to you, especially when you tell stories😁
Do have a question at....
36:24 Would overlapping the other way, direction, be ok? Meaning, start with front corners & work way to the back corner, so it creates an overlap the opposite way you’ve done here (so, what your doing here “last” in this particular timestamp, would be first; for this particular setup/design of shower w/ these benches). Wondering if this is bad, or kinda doesn’t matter?
Thanks for the videos, & always there for us, much appreciated Isaac😊
So hope this makes sense to you, as can be kinda hard to explain at times😉
Cheers🤙🏼
I am installing my first Schluter Shower kit and it is an 38" x 60" offset. The plumber roughed in the drain in the concrete slab too close to the wall. It is approximately 4.5 inches from the center of the drain hole of the foam floor from Schluter. The only options I can think of are to dig out the concrete and add a fitting to create the right angle or to build a small platform to do the same thing. Is there any advice on the best way to do this? Or do I scrap the Schluter system and figure out how to form a shower floor from scratch? I am not a professional, but an experienced DIYer, (I know that is not a word). Thanks
You do not say which direction the hole is off. If it is still centered in the 38" width but is 4.5 inches too close to the plumbing wall, for example, you can cut the 4.5" off that end of the foam pan, set it over the drain location per instructions and then fill the remaining gap on the other end of the foam pan with dry-pack or concrete. In my case my shower was 6" longer than the foam pan to begin with so I took a scrap piece of the 1/2" foam I used on the walls and set it in thin-set to match the slope of the pan and sealed it together with banding. If however your misalignment puts it out of alignment with the wall fixtures etc...you may want to relocate the drain as you say.
So you don't glue your drain fitting? All my drain fittings get glued to the pipe.
Should use ABs cement on pipping to drain
Most likely has access from underneath. In other vids he uses the proper pipe cement.
Of course its glued. Didnt connect it yet!
How do you install that shower pan system when the drain isn’t centered ?
I am confused !! which system do you actually stand behind?? when it comes to shower pans, do you Hot Mop?, use Hydroban ? Schulter ? Foam or drypack slope to drain??? wood curb or synthetic curb material so it won't ever stand a chance to rot out. Please comment on what system of waterproofing a shower you would prefer to use ( on a concrete slab by the way) no wood subfloor. Thank you
Hi doing a schluter shower..l am wondering if you still recommend adding the hydroban cementicous over the schluter (at least for the pan and 10 inches up the sides for the waterproofing?
I asked hydroban manufacturer and they said no…
Do you recommend to just use this alone without a hot mop on second floor bathroom
is that still true they want you to use modified thin set now to set the shower pan and all the membranes?
What's up tile coach? Love your videos! I have a question. I'm redoing my bathroom and using Kerdi board. I've seen a bunch of videos where people are using a 1/4" notch on the wall of the shower and then buttering the back of the tile with a 1/4 inch notch also. Is this correct? Seems like a lot to me. Is this something specific for Kerdi board? I did my bathroom 15 years ago with an 1/8 in notch to cement board and I have had no problems since install, with water or anything. I also didn't do any of the fancy water proofing paint. That's the way I was taught in the 90's to do showers. Mind you, I don't do this for a living, last time I tiled was 15 years ago, lol but I do a way better job then some of the things I've seen in you videos. I can't believe some of the things you have showed on your channel. Thank you in advance for any input. 👍
You must mean 3/8” notch. I have a video that explains all of the notches. Uploaded a few months ago. Thanks for watching!
@@TileCoach ok cool, I'll check it out. Probably a 3/8" notch, 15 years ago. Lol, thank you
@@TileCoach just cheked out the video, it was a 3/16 notch, I called it the shark teeth notch.
I recommend a set a different sized plastic puddy knives when using shcluter fabric of any kind.
Also, I always install my pan before my wallboard so the wallboard sits on top of the pan and you dont have gaps where the pan meets the wall.
Did you not glue the drain to the plumbing pipe?
Hi, I bought schluter shower kit, and after I saw your video where you tested kerdi system with sprinclers for 7 days and it failed, got dissapointed. In the latest video I see you've used schluter mix with it, do you think with their modifided mix it will be safe?
I do.. by all means use schluters all set !!
Question on overlapping the kerdi band to seams....it seems it would be better to first kerdi membrane the pan, then overlap band and corners to the pan and wall board, then last apply kerdi wall membrane and overlap that over the kerdi band at pan perimeter. This way everything is overlapped in a way that water never flows directly into a seam. I dont get why they seam together the membrane in a way where water directly flows towards a seam joint. I get the technology of kerdi how in bonds between thinset during the curing process but its too risky for me considering thinset isnt waterproof.
Could you go back over the bands and where there are joints with Ardex 8+9 to add an additional waterproofing "piece of mind"? I assume if you'd use it and it failed Schluter won't cover it with a warranty, of course.
So with this system, you can go over the drywall? Doesn't have to be Cement board/Hardie backer?
Also, does it have to be greenboard?
You can use any type of Sheetrock. If it makes you feel better you can use moisture resistant gypsum. The membrane is waterproof