The BEST HUNTING ARROW?
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Not gonna lie, I’ve been binge watching the hunting videos getting pumped up for hunting season.
Same
Yep I know the feeling
Same
Yo me to bro
So excited!!
Best part of this video is that you aren't just buying the most expensive arrows out there. You are honest and reasonable. Almost like you are a normal person. Appreciate it man. 😂
Not sure I should be the one to tell you this but he is a normal person, you know; one brain, two arms, two legs, eyes, ears, one nose mouth, etc. by all metrics or measurements that makes him a normal person.
I heard he has 3 legs
@@benaustin272 His third leg helps him with his accuracy.
It’s his stabilization method that goes unspoken in their inner circle
How much weight on the 3rd leg for stabilization?
The best arrows to hunt with are the ones you're currently using.
I started with the Bass Pro store brand X3 Hunter 340 refletched 4" plastic, 100gr field tips.
The arrows are made by Gold Tip. After several months of practice I used the same arrows for hunting. I swapped the field tips for the 100gr G5 Montec broadhead.
I went to that first hunt with every confidence I had in those arrows when I went to the range to practice.
So no, I don't use different arrows for hunting or practice. The arrows tend to behave differently going from field tip to broadheads but that's expected.
I don't sweat different brands of arrows or tips. I chose one and stayed with it until I got it down.
I learned from rifle hunting that if you stress over one brand of ammo and bullet style over another you'll second guess every decision you've made or will make.
I thought I needed the Hornady SST ballistic tip ammo at $45/box precovid now I shoot consistent groups with the $19/box precovid American Whitetail SP flat base out to 300 yards.
There's a reason why Remington SP flat based Core-Lokt ammo has been around for over 80 years. It's basically tried and true and lethal out to 400 yards.
I am no longer seduced by marketing or hype. I learned not to buy expensive ammo and I've never bought expensive arrows or broadheads.
It's not the bow, arrow or broadheads it's the man drawing the bow string confident in his ability and equipment no matter how much he spent.
Chris…thanks for a common, no nonsense arrow build video. Like you said “it’s personal choice”, but I am so tired of everyone saying heavy is the only way. As you say shoot what you know works for you and your equipment. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
If you shoot short known distance shots heavy is totally the way. If you are out west or have farm land and are reaching out there 40+ then absolutely no need to go as heavy as what ranch fairy is for hogs
The best segment of this video ...was the truth and pure honest advise ..... shoot n practice :) good on you Chris :)
I needed this today! Been working on my setup for this season too and have been overcomplicating it. Thanks Chris!
The more complicated, the more time you have into it and you learn more. And it forces you to practice more. That's my take on it. If you don't want to, or have the time to spend on building arrows, keep it simple. Nothing wrong with that! Cheers!
Love the TKO series! I shot the VAP SS for a while, but decided to get back to a standard diameter and am using the VF TKO. Fantastic shafts! 300 spine, 445 grains total with the stock 22 grain insert and 125 grain heads.
Awesome opinion on arrow builds, I am in the middle of building my final hunting arrows now and this content gives me a few things to consider. I tend to build a much too heavy front forward arrow for the white tail I chase here in New York.
Someone as successful as you have been and the experience you have accumulated sure gives weight to your setup shortcuts and thoughts on reliability and over thinking the technical aspects of archery...and it was just great. I have experimented the arrow builds also with 200 to 340 spines and weights 440 to 725g. I do like how dead the bow feels on the heavier arrows but doubt I will put any more time into that pursuit. Love the adventure, keep it up, I bet your dad is very proud of your channel.
Straight talk arrows with Chris Bee. I appreciate your honesty here. Build an arrow, don’t over think it, send it and be confident. Totally agree.
Perfect timing for this video, Ive been looking into switching arrows. What are the odds you ship me a few of the arrows you didn't go with? Lol, dope video chris!
Mark those arrow ends with a silver sharpie before squaring them. You'd be surprised how much it takes to get all the silver sharpie off.
Also don't forget the nock end. They're never square from the factory
Thanks for getting me grounded again with a basic arrow set up. I have been watching to much social media stuff and second guessing everything that has worked so well for me over the years.
I got a bunch of victory vap tkos 300 spines cause i have a 30.5” draw and im pulling 73 lbs on a ventum 33 i got the greens i think they are v3 but the color is like eastons pro comp, match grade, and base model arrow but with the vap is target, hunting, and all around
I shot the 5mm Easton ACC Hunting shafts for years. About 3 years ago I started shooting the Victory VAP TKO's with the heavy 95 grain steel outserts/inserts. I found the shafts where tougher than the components. The next year I switched to the Valkyrie components. @ that time the outsert was just 50 grains but I had all my points & broadheads with the 210 grain Viking Centerpin system & that Victory component problems went away. This year I tweaked it a little with the 22 grain Valkyrie outsert on a few shafts I made from scratch. The arrow setup was about 35 grains lighter with the 4 fletch pattern low profile vane which steers the setup fine. Not a problem with the tuning. I have taken the V6 TKO's made from shafts & used the squaring tool which has given the arrow a higher tolerance. The advantages with this arrow setup is primarily going to shine with a whitetail 🌳 Hunting scenario. But I think it's better if u have a 30" to 31" draw length. The speed u lose will more than make up for it with the accuracy u get. If u need a stiffer spine w/o the weight of a TKO u can always try making up a set of the Blackeagle X-Impact's that u can get in a 250 spine. As of a year ago u weren't able to get a TKO stiffer than a 300 spine. The jury is still out whether it can match the durability of the VAP TKO's which is going to be hard to beat but the X-Impact's have the same tight tolerance on all the shafts they offer so that's a bonus 👍.
Victory are amazing arrows. My number one arrow and my go to arrow. Second favorite is black eagles renegade 5mm. Great stuff!
Thanks Chris for another great video. I enjoy all your videos because everything you do in your videos helps this old man hunt better even if I don’t hunt with a compound. I hunt with a recurve and may not need all the info, but a lot can still be used for my type of hunting.
Please keep us updated on the potential accuracy difference between the V6 (Sport) and V1 (Elite) arrows. Seems most people would not be able to tell a difference, but I am curious if the additional cost of the Elite is justifiable.
If your arrow length is 29" or less buy the v6 or v3 option and cut from both ends. You usually end up with a v1 when said and done.
Kinetic pierce platinum fan here. Used them after pro hunter xt and I like them a lot. Hard to switch when something works well.
I like the Easton 6.5mm line up my personal favorites are the bowhunter and the match grades.
Easton have become so expensive though if you want a Dozen, especially their Match Grade Line. There’s better out there.. I’d rather have Victory or Black Eagle.
I bought 6 to try , I Robin hooded 2 times , ruining 4 arrows , I like them , they shoot good n straight . But I find them to be on the brittle side.
Lol, and here I am shooting my whitetail with 652gn, 200sp, single bevel fixed blade from tuffhead. 350gn total upfront with a 20% FOC. Pass through every time and cuts through bone too. But shoot whatever you’re confident in people! The only thing I’d scream all day is a tough, fixed blade ultra sharp broadhead. Most important thing.
Such a helpful video. What is the difference between a left wing, right wing, and straight fletching jig?
I switched to the Victory VAP Elite arrow last year. I used the Black Fusion glue and it worked like a champ! I usually use some sort of gun cleaning brass bristled bore cleaner brush to rough up the inside of the arrow shaft then some sort of scratch pad to rough up the outside of the arrow then clean it with isopropyl alcohol then use the black fusion glue (shake well) and I havent have any outserts pull out. Ive used the gorilla super glue on my blazers for several years and it works really well! ...I tried out the TAC vanes last season and used the prime pen and glue and those also adhear really well ......I really enjoy your videos so keep them coming. Ive hunted Kansas for years and really enjoyed your walk in Kansas hunt where you took a GIANT! . Good luck this season!
So you're sponsored by victory now too? lol A nice little trick for the lighted knocks is you take some heavy gauge wire that fits inside the regular knocks. cut little piece of wire and weigh the knock with it and keep cutting it till you get the same weight as the lighted knock. Then a little dab of super glue to hold the piece of wire in the knock and you have consistent weight in practice arrows and hunting arrows... Great video!
When it comes to the tip and tail, I've started using UV resin that I use for fly tying and it works great
Totally agree on the weight Chris! Also not a fan of hunting with lighted nocks for hunting! They have more possibility for failure and throw off FOC!
Personal preference is key. I help buddies with arrows and such and try not to push them into any direction except practice, practice, practice. I do like 460-520gr range, obviously depending on the person. I shoot 520gr with single bevel and am comfortable out to 50 yards. And I'll only take a shot that far if everything lines up perfectly. And I disagree that your heavy two blade single bevel will go through a shoulder. With the right broadhead that will happen. Just ask Iron Will Bill. I'm not saying people should try and go through a shoulder but knowing you have the power to does open more shot selections. But yes, those two blades do take time tuning. But with that comes the necessary practice which is good. Thanks for the video!
I've tried 9 different arrows and have settled on two types of hunting arrows. Rips in a 300 with 275 tacs in a 3 fletch and 160 up front with 100g montec, weighing 438-441.
Extreme velocities in a 300 with 185 up front, using the rip inserts, 125g muzzy ones, with 225 tacs in a 3 fletch weighing 438- 441. Both fly amazingly accurate at 50 yards straight off the bat. The foc on the xv's has to be around 19% as a guess. Love the Victory's and the content
Chris Bee, my question as I watch you fletchin arrows ... do you line your fixed blades with your 3 fletch?m
Outstanding, I've been fletching my own arrows for both hunting and competition for years! I've done that individual tune single bevel stuff years ago. This video was HONEST no HYPE, SPOT ON! Great Job!
Its nice to know that even though right now i am shooting a slow bow, Im not the only one in that weight range....this season i was shooting 440gr arrows and I will be repeating that weight next season with more FOC hopefully.
Amen to the blazer vane adhesion,tried the TAC vanes on my last set up and they are definitely a much more difficult product to use
I agree. I tried Easton, AAE , Vanetec and some noname brands. Only fletchings that really stuck are Bohning vanes. Rest will fall off after a couple of dozen shots.
This is a great video man! Very informative for guys just starting to build their own arrows. Having the same issue with my FMJs, such a hassle to fine tune everything just right. Good stuff man, keep em' coming!
Thanks
I totally agree with your arrow builds but hunting style makes me tend to go with a heavier more weight forward setup with fixed blades for bow driving and ground hunting .awkward quartering angles and more frontal shots heavy helps
I’ve found the Bohning tower jig to be really easy to fletch with. You can glue and fletch all three vanes at the same time. I’ve had nothing but great results with mine.
My first time using, I found myself using too much glue with it, but I think that’s just part of the learning curve. Since the jaws move away, instead of opening like a single fletch, it is harder to move the jaws away to wipe away excess before it is cured enough for the fletching to not move. Can definitely do your arrows faster than a single fletch.
Thanks for doing this video. It helped me confirm that my arrow setup is right where it should be for whitetail hunting here in South Carolina
Thanks Chris! Yea, I'm totally with you as for board. Can't Fletcher fast enough! I use cue tips to clean with. Also, I'm trying the new TAC vanes! Beautiful vanes but a S.O.B. to get to stick and yes I bought the pen and super glue! They say don't use any other glue except there's but I went to bohning super glue and it worked. I'm just telling you so if you ever try it .... Good luck!!!!
Yupp. Im shooting the VAP SS elite .001 and using 60 grain total Ethics archery insert and collar
If you will trim both ends of the v6’s, they will usually be as straight as the v1’s. The V1 has a 0.001 straightness. The v6 has a 0.006 straightness. However, the abnormality is usually on the ends. So if you trim a little off both ends of the v6, you usually
Get the bends and they will usually pass as a V1. Just a tip to save some money. The v1,v3, and v6 come from the same runs. They separate when they check the straightness at the plant.
I use the cabela's stalker xtreme, I wish I had the money to buy everything on top of the line, but it's not the case. They actually shoot, really well. They are made by Easton.
That was the realist video iv seen you do In a long time. Keep it up !
Are you shooting 70# with these arrows? I'd think you'd be under spined with 80#, and arrows that light out of an 80# would probably be tough to get fixed heads to group well?
I was also curious about this same idea.
IMO, as I’ve been bow hunting seriously at least 55 years. Experimented and used so many shafts( hate fricking aluminum) and fixed blade heads ONLY I am a firm believer a fast arrow kills better. I’m not promoting a 350 grain hunting arrow for deer etc but the fastest arrow you and your bow can shoot correctly. Draw weight, DL, arrow spine and the head design all come into play and have to work perfectly together. IMO, it doesn’t matter what animal you’re shooting a fast arrow is very beneficial.
I was running the VAP TKO years ago. Glad to see they've caught on!!!
I shoot the Victory VAP TKO Elites. Awesome arrows, and like you said in the video, durable as all hell. $20 an arrow does sting though.
I still shoot Easton bloodline 400 and 480 with my Bear legion 60lb. .100 grain practice tips. After seeing you videos I got the fever. Amazing how out of shape I have became. Practice practice practice. Thanks
I remember running Easton's for a while but after trashing a few I needed something that was cheaper on the wallet. Went to Walmart and got some $3 arrows and cut them down to my length. Turns out they shot better than the Easton's.
I think a comparison between the v6 Vap TKOs and v1 would be a great video
Chris is spot on about arrows, as a matter of fact he is spot on about archery period! You can have a million dollars of equipment and if you don't know how to use it it's worthless! At the end of the day it's about the guy behind the bow!
I'm shooting the 300sp 5mm fmjs out of my V3 and they are pretty damn accurate I'm not using a fixed blade or single bevel and I just went with the basic insert they come with but they seem to be doing pretty good and honestly don't seem that slow at 70lbs
Right on,, I’ve been shooting Rip TKO’s for a while now and I can honestly say you’ll never be let down,, but don’t always trust the spine alignment 🤙
I’m still learning, I have heard that you need an off set or helical for broad heads. What is the go?
Excellent video. I just started archery and can't wait to start building my own arrows.
Idk how I’ve just found your videos this past week but huge fan
What a coincidence, I just switched to the VAP TKO myself after trying Sirius (and was using Easton before that). I've never been as impressed with a hunting arrow as I am with the VAP TKO. They are perfection or as close to it as I've seen.
Do you still like them? About to order me some
@@Austinwoods3 Yes, hundreds of shots later they are awesome and I will buy more.
Would they be a good arrow for all around…. Also for target shooting?
@@dariocarello9038 I think they are great for everything including target shooting.
One more thing that has to do with fixed blade broadheads... spin tune the inserts on every single arrow you own. It's very easy when using the blue melt glue. Boil some water and keep it at a rolling boil while doing this. If the arrow isn't spinning true, twist the insert, and spin it again. If it's not spinning true and the arrow is to cold to twist the insert, put the arrow tip into the boiling water for just a few seconds: 3-5 seconds. Pull it out and twist the insert, spin test it again, continue to do this until your arrow spins true. You must do this with fixed blade heads otherwise you run the risk of inaccuracy. The arrow that wobbles will hit differently from your tuned arrows. If you're an ethical hunter then that means you're not lazy and you'll cover all your bases. Otherwise you're blowing smoke in my humble opinion.
Much easier to just spin without any glue at all. Find the sweet spot and mark it then glue it.
Curious to hear your “cons” on the heavier arrow. I have a rather long draw at 31.5”, I shoot kinetic kaos 250 spines with a 125gn swhacker broadhead. Total arrow weight is 565gn, shoot 280 fps. I know that with a 460gn arrow I shot 318, but the heavy setup is giving me killer pass throughs on all the whitetail I’ve shot. Not questioning your opinion in any way, you are a pro and I’m just a country boy, but would love to see you compare the two different builds.
Your an anomaly at that draw length. I think average draw is 28-29” so 565 gets pretty slow at those lengths. If your over 275ish your doing fine for speed
Just made my first arrows. Easton Sonic 6.0 - 300 spine. 50g brass insert, 125gr point. 3 fletch AAE Stealth Max with the EZ Fletch! 480ish grains.
How do you like those Sonic 6.0 arrows? I have the Bloodlines which Easton replaced with the Sonics. I'm definitely gonna build different arrows next season since I can't get 250 spine Bloodlines anymore.
That VAP tko is basically the exact arrow I’ve been shooting too. They’re tough and consistent.
For a 70lb compound my go-to standard arrow for hunting is a 350sp arrow with 150gn up front (total) all up weighing 435gn - almost identical to what you're running (just a different shaft).
Trust me, it'll work.
Victory arrows I have found are the most durable. I do not care for the outserts though. I went with a gold tip stainless insert.
Love it. I’ve been waiting for this video. Excited to get into building my own arrows
Looks like a good hobby I need to get into… I shoot victory vap tko 300 micro diameter. Accurate! My other arrow I think is pretty good is the gold tip airstrike 4 fletch. 300 micro diameter also
I ran the rip tko two years ago and had durability issues I bought a dozen of them an at the end of just a 3D season I had broke 6 of the 12 of them just from shooting foam so I put them to the side can’t bring myself to try them again.
I’m using the Black Eagle Outlaw and my grain weight is 455 grains out of a 60# bow 30 inch draw length shoot at the most of 30 yards
I started shooting them this year too and love them
I love VAPs, been shooting them for years. Only thing i don’t like are the aluminum outserts. I’ve had them bend before when hitting hard bone. There’s a guy on eBay that sells titanium outserts for them and they’re rock solid and stand behind a lifetime guarantee. That would be my only suggestion.
Do you have the guys name on ebay with the Ti inserts?
I'm running the Sirius Orion 250 spine this year for all species (Pronghorn, Elk, Whitetail). Running the 110 Ethics insert and sleeve, 150 grain Rocky Mountain Specialty Cutthroat left bevel broadhead, 5" wrap, four-fletch AAE hybrid, and lighted nock. Total weight is 587 gr. (Adult arrow), insert tuned and bare shaft nock tuned. Field tested on my Pronghorn last weekend, arrow went through blind mesh, through the Pronghorn at 20 yards, and still flew 20 yards up the hill. Only downside is I almost didn't find my arrow. Highly recommend the heavier arrow with a razor sharp broadhead.
I shot a pronghorn at 32 yards, quarting to me, in between the shoulder and next, and exited just in front of the hind leg. This was with a total arrow weight of 394 gr. Using a rage trypan. The arrow was about 20 yard beyond the animal as well. It just goes to show how situational it can all be. Also, this isn't to pick a fight- just for information.
@@randallthomas1538 Bottom line, I believe it comes down to sharpness of the broadhead and the arrow being tuned perfect to the bow. Honest question, what happens to a mechanical when shot through blind mesh?
@@luck35ksu I have no idea. I've never shot one out of a blind, and wouldn't ever shoot any broadhead through mesh.
@@randallthomas1538I've always said the same thing, until I didn't have a choice. Without it on this particular hunt, I would have been busted because I was surprised from behind and had to make a quick position adjustment. With the sharp single bevel the mesh had no effect on the path of my arrow, which was a pleasant surprise.
@@luck35ksu glad it worked out for you. They're so fun to hunt, when you're not sweating your balls off!
Just looking at the numbers, if I were to set up one of your western hunt arrows, the vap tko, exactly how you have yours setup, with my arrow length and spine needed I would still be sitting at a 520 grain arrow. Why I'm looking at the Easton axis 4mm. Setting them up the similarly, I can potentially get it to a 460-480 grains.
there's nothing wrong with 520 grains. You should be able to get out to 60 yards no problem.
Bohning says their blazer was designed for fixed blades. So why do you use x vanes for fixed blades?
Nice Sitka T-Shirt! I heard it's on sale for only $89.99
Funny, Brandon and everyone in LAS laughed at me 2 years ago when I went with those arrows. They been durable for me. Killed 3 with same arrow and head.
Thanks Chris I'm retired can't afford testing appreciate your testing.
What do you think about tuning your bow with no fletching on the arrow? Also what about the top fletching being on the “stiffest” part of the arrow? You should do an in depth video of doing all the small things to see how much of a difference it makes. Like weighing all the accessories like inserts, knocks, fletchings to see what difference it makes in consistency/accuracy. I’m very OCD about those things but never set my own arrows up and don’t know if all the equipment is even worth it
Victory marks there stiff side on the shaft for you. I nock tune all my arrows bare shaft through paper before I feltch. Unless there victory then I trust there mark
@@brockpeck7073 Where is the mark on the arrows. I got some victory's but wasn't 100% sure. Is it based on the direction arrow on the wrap itself?
@@archeryhunter86- sorry just getting back to you now. Yes the mark is on victorys label. There should be a line
@@archeryhunter86- I've seen the arrow your talking about on victorys bolts for crossbows. Usually on there label is a arrow or line.
Gorilla brush and nozzle super glue is the ticket use the brush and you get a super clean arrow no over glue. And great contact.
Very cool to see you picking out Victory as your go to.
That is the newer G5 squaring tool, there was indeed an older version.
I'll stick with gold tip all day!
You should do a video on the best broad heads for hunting
Try using Sevr!
What do you use to get the vanes off the arrows. I have several tools made specifically for removing vanes and they still somewhat destroy the arrows. As far as super glueing the inserts I stoped doing that. I’m not perfect at getting my vanes lined up with the broadheads so I always seem to have to try and twist the insert and when I super glued them they just ended up drying to fast. I ended up putting a drillbit inside my arrow and shake it almost like a slide hammer in order to knock the insert out. You always seem to have great tips and what I like most about this channel versus other great bow channels is you mainly do your setups for whitetail in the Midwest. The other good channels are geared more towards elk hunting. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and love of archery. I do wish you was posting more videos though. I can never get enough and it seems I’m always learning something new every day. Thank you again.
I am shooting Easton axis 5mm 340 spine. 430 grains. Out of my v3x 29.
They shoot great.
I like the little ez fletch I think aae makes it, thinking about trying the tac vanes I've heard they are super stiff ..cool video
Victory are a tough arrow. The carbon weave does help the durability of the arrow. I did notice that the Easton are straighter than the victory but I like both arrows. My 4mm Easton's have been very durable as well.
Suggestion for a stag arrow? (Trying to hunt NZ next year for stag and fallow buck)
Guessing a 4mm similar to the 'out west' arrow you did in this video?
my v3x 29 at 28.5 inches and 77 pounds slings 550 grains 276 fps they fly like darts if I do my part. easiest arrow ive ever tuned or rather got to fly good with a tuned bow. love the content thx...cant wait for the new release as well
I run the Easton 5mm axis at 520gr with my bow @ 80lbs and a 31.5in draw and it’s pushing at 325fps
Do you even lift bro? 🤣🤣😜😜😜 JK
So do you have any specific advice for beards while shooting I’ve noticed my beard will affect the Arrows slightly lol my anchor point kinda screws me sometimes if you have any tips please reply lmao
I should add i haven't shot carbon arrows. Aluminum arrows with fletch laq and 4" 3 vane helical.
Great video as usual, would love it if you did a video on broadhead tuning? I can't seem to get my broadheads to fly consistently. Especially fixed blade.
Nice one! Great set up and overall presentation. What lenght is your arrows? Cut? 29 inch?
What’s the length on the first arrow, 435gr? I’m building it and have 411gr 26.5 inch shaft without lighted nock and no glue. Thx
I Luv that you don’t follow that heavy thing!!! I believe theres a time and place for that for sure, but for me I can’t justify losing that much speed. Losing that much speed equates to me in losing accuracy. A 3-4 yd misjudgment means a bad hit or miss at 35yds w/heavy arrow. Tuned perfect arrow and bow and an arrow weighting 420-475 and there shouldn’t be an issue. I shoot 27in draw bow set to 71lb w/27.5in arrow weighting 445gr and I’m getting 17% foc and shoot fixed cut on contact head. Cheaper standard dia arrow and at this point am going on 200+ deer killed 26 bears and a moose w/mostly pass throughs. Usually if I don’t get pass throughs then something has happened (bad release, deflection or hitting ball of shoulder).
shouldn't or won't? did you shoot your arrows at 35 yards with your 30 and 40 yard pin and see where they hit? Any more the hunter ranges the deer prior to the shot or wished he took the extra time.
@@km6731 shoot between 30-50 arrows a night and practice mostly at 40-50yds. Have rangefinder but rarely use it in heat of moment. Woods up here are far to think to take time on every shot to spend even 15-20 seconds to dial in every shot. When we 3D shoot we aren’t allowed to use rangefinders so that’s much the same for us up here. I only have one bow and one arrow setup and have been bow hunting for 30yrs and know even while hunting in Midwest or Canada and for sure in Northeast where I live that in heat of moment taking a rangefinder out for every shot is unrealistic. I’ve hunted quite a bit in all 3 places and stuff happens quick!!! Get in stand take some readings put rangefinder in pocket and there it stays for most part after that it’s all done by estimating. If I only shot known yardages at long time set ups then sure heavy arrows would work just fine. Almost never hunt same tree more then twice cuz in big woods up here sign changes constantly. Also while in Midwest we found hunting repeat times in same tree that high pressured bucks would pick you out quickly and just transition to different spot. Always best to hunt your way into area with couple sits in one spot and move even if it was only 75yds away. Think those arrows will tempt people to not take their time and possibly say sure I can shoot through most anything and that brings in play more variables then I want. Flatter shooting bow with reasonable foc and taking solid shots with a perfectly tuned bow and arrows and you will have best of both worlds IMO.
Hey Chris, do all Mathews V3X bows with zebra strings like a left helical?
I fletch my own arrows too. You can do sooo much with them , I'm doing a 4 fletched Hunter Pro with nock colairs (they have saved $$$ and arrows) I have only tried 3 types of fletching glue . And Blaze Bound hands down and by far the best (so far)
I also found a 4+ degree heellikel works for me . Even out past 80 yrds (just add 3-5 yrds for drag) I don't hunt and have found micro arrows go far too deep and gave me more problems with arrow damage not to say what happens to your fletches IF THEY STAY ON
I'm using a Mathews V 3 25.5 draw at 85% let off and 81 lbs I don't have the killer speed guessing at 295-297 with all my specs (from a pro at the bow shop Wolf's Den) but it PACKS A PUNCH
Honest ? If you don’t hunt why shoot 81 lbs?
@@alexbetts452 Just for shits and gigles all my other bows are 70 , 50 so I can shoot it all day so I guess I fall into the mucsel head group . I must say the Mathews is wild and a joy to shoot even at 80+ lbs . In Canada we can only use 60 lbs for target comps
You can shoot anything in 3-D or Feild
You had it right and you know you did that's a super light Arrow 430 grains that ain't even 100 grains above IBO I would say 480 to 500 is a good spot to be that's what the 200 grain point or 150 Grand Point weight and then 100 grain insert that's what I run 250 on the front end
I highly encourage those that take arrow building seriously, to clean out the inner portion of their shafts. That's whether they've sanded the inside to get better glue adhesion or not. I'm encouraging you as a fellow lover of archery because I've lost 1 too many expensive inverts/outserts. Expensive as in the Iron Will insert/collar system and the Nexxus bowhunting titanium outsert/collar system which is $100 for 12 outserts/collars. I've lost them using super glue and bohning blue cool melt Glue because I didn't clean the inside out from the carbon dust. Once I started lightly sanding the inside and cleaning all dust out, I stopped losing the Inserts. I hope this saves y'all some dough, God bless.
I agree. I've never had an insert pull out but I always scuff them up with the Iron Will tool and clean with alcohol on a Q-tip.
Watched ya for a yr or so. 😁 ya kinda remind me of me. When life was with living. Hope you never reach that point. Oh by the way, I shot a bow once. That once was from the time I was five. Love it more than you could possible know. Keep on Chris. I had a couple dreams I was the best at.
Do you have any recommendations for building some 600 spine arrows for my daughter? She is shooting a 40lb bear legit as a starter bow.
Chris, have you noticed any difference in consistency when taking arrow building to the extreme? For example: squaring both ends of the arrows and weighing all components to build arrows that all weigh within a half a grain or so of one another? I have always been curious if higher-caliber archers and professionals could tell a difference. Like you said, for average archers such as myself the shooter is the biggest variable by far.