This is how my dad and I used to rebuild heads in our basement in 1983 when I didn't have money for machine shop rebuilds.... Glad to see we're not the only ones.... Love it!!!
Richard try replacing the $4.50 brake cleaner, with a one Quart REFILLABLE (Amazon) container, that is pressurized using a tire valve on the container. We use this at our shop. We buy one gallon plastic jugs of chemical. Fill the quart steel container. Screw the plug (which has the tire valve) into the container. Use the air hose, pressure up the container to 100 psi. Also no cans to crush & throw in the trash. Plus so much cheaper. Thanks for all YOUR HELP.
Pro Tip; After disassembling Your heads, take them and ALL the valves and such and completely immerse them in "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner from the dollar store. It will cut Your clean up labor by 50-80%.. Seriously. Kool vid as usual Richard.
Only Richard would show you how to clean up heads then dyno test the results. Awesome content that's helping so many people and dispelling internet theories. Thank you!!
I like the long version with more detailed info. I can always skip info I don't need but can't add more info I want to a short video. I'm so glad to see people into fast cheap cars again. The LS has brought kids into the hobby again. In my day in the early 80's we spent many days looking for certain casting numbers. Now all you need is a junk yard LS and a cheap turbo. It's worth it to me to make all the rare old school hot rod parts I've saved for so many years obsolete. Finally after so many years of basically junk low power engines we have cheap engines everywhere anyone can make good power with. Now all we need is some good high octane pump gas like in 1970. Thanks for the info. I've learned so much from you. Please keep it up
I've been doing heads like that on everything from an XR80 to a Chevy 350 for years. And yes it definitely works. Throw in a quick hand port and viola! Couple extra ponies!
Richard you are the man! I have always wanted to see that test done... Because I too have had great success with your "Razorblade" rebuild on Many Ford 4.6 engines.. I think one reason it works so well is you aren't sinking the valve like you do by doing a true valve job! Old School for the win!
Awsome content as always. Growing up poor watching my blue collar dad D.I.Y. EVERYTHING by soaking EVERYTHING metal in a tub of REGULAR Leaded gas before & after disassembly sure made it easy to work on engines, transmissions, & brake parts. Dirty, greasy, oily, rusty, carbon build-up parts come out clean & ready for inspection, prepping & reassembly. Thank you Richard for your valuable time, effort & KNOWLEDGE....
You have some of the best,straight to the point videos around. I am seriously thinking about putting a LS in my 66 Chevelle rather than a 350 after seeing your videos. Thanks
This is exactly what I LOVE to learn. I barely have a garage to build in n it's not mine. It my bosses. So this def hits home. Especially the valve compound trick. Thankyou!
Long version, you’ve been around engines for years and done multiples of engine work in comparison to the rest of UA-cam espeiclly the viewing portion of YT; knowledge is power. I didn’t watch this video because I wanted to know how to lap/freshen up heads, I watched it to hear some of the little observations you have made over years of experience. Anybody can do a how to video but I am here for the down n dirty observations and facts you have learned over the years. Never would I have thought the 10” header extension would drop power like it did but that’s what I’m here to find out. Me as a viewer I’ll admit I don’t know shit but here I am open minded willing to learn. Keep it up dynomaster! It feels pretty crazy seeing tests and videos come out after suggesting some of the topics; really appreciated content. Thank you Mr.Holdner
Also pressing handle end of a screwdriver against the valve face is easier on the hand than using a finger and allows more pressure for faster/better job.
Mint. I'm starting to love your channel and I hate most UA-camrs. Also you'll still get guys who think if you DONT send it to a machine shop and have it "built" by a professional in a clean room it's garbage...
I have used the cordless drill method to lap valves for years and it works great. I even took it a step further and used that method to grind a valve seat (actually lapping a new valve int an old seat) when replacing a badly burned exhaust valve on a 351. Took some time but eventually got it. That was in 2003 and the truck is still on the road. This is the kind of tech I had access to as a learning teenager working on my own stuff in the 80's.
I did almost this exact thing on my build. Only differences was I had access to a hot washer, I used a drill press and Emory cloth to clean valves, and a flat bar with wd-40 and 1000 grit sand paper. End result was still the same though. And heads perform very well for my daily.
I personally like the longer videos but if you do them all like this you could tell the short vid guys to skip to the short video at the end. Hopefully keep everyone happy.
I have never had to touch a valve seat on an LS. Everyone I have checked had no run out. I do replace all the valves. Elgin has intake and exhaust valve kits that are inexpensive. I found exhaust valve pitting and runout are not worth grinding. Be sure to measure overall valve length when replacing valves on gen 3 heads.
Lol on the old flatheads would glue a rubber tire valve steams face of the valve so use a drill saved alot of time can also glue sand paper to valve for really bad seats I was so glad when I finally got a carbide seat cutting set thanks for the video
Add to the quick n' dirty rebuild list - I've been "surfacing" heads for decades with ~180 grit paper on a large straight line air sander! Sure it won't flatten them if they're warped, but it does do a fantastic job of cleaning them up and since the board is so large (~3*17") it doesn't put little warps in them like a palm sander would.
We flatten the deck surface of heads, using wet & dry carbide sheets glued to a piece of thick flat glass. Just move the engine head, back & forth until the deck of the head is all "machined". Thanks
Let me ask ya I'm doing a 4.8 for my old truck. I have the complete engine harness in your opinion is it worth keeping the harness and pinning it out and adding a fuse block or buy a new harness. Harness is from 1999. Thanks
I used a drill method but mine's a little different I use a piece of quarter inch fuel line hose put a stud in one end and then spinning on to the stem and use that instead of directly connecting my drill to the top of the stem
This is funny. Lol. I was doing this ...what u call Razor blade Rebuild, 35 year's ago!!! No, I haven't perfected it, because nothing really operates as good as fresh WELL DONE MACHINE WORK!! But..to add to your style? Well..for one, you kept bouncing the Valve on &off the valve seat?? Actually this is Unessecery and Counter productive!! Just hold very slight pressure on valve and turn until its shiny, NOT...WITH SHIT STILL ON THE SEAT.LOL I have a second &third but..you are informative and helpful so..keep up the good videos!!
YES!!! I love this stuff... more like "Uncle Tony's Garage"!!! Not all of us have deep pockets ;-) P.S. when the content is this good...make 'em as long as you want.
Decking is really only needed if you have an uneven surface. The bump in compression from decking could be had more easily and cheaply with thinner head gaskets.
Sean Lockhart I would definitely advise decking if you know your motor your building overheated. Also, the quality control isn’t perfect at all the foundries that cast heads, and along with shipping that can sometimes be rough, a brand new head shipped to your house isn’t always perfectly flat all the time. That goes for blocks too.
Easy Off works great too. Just don't leave it on aluminum for a real long time. I've had the best luck with the name brand original one. It's good to see those Happy Hands doing something, besides flapping away in the air. ;) lol
Great video as always hopefully to save some cash for go fast parts like to see more of these videos since I'm in the process of my own rebuild. Thank you
Nice work , I’m trying to decide between an old Conventional small buck or I have a 6.O outback that I was thinking of maybe just doing a single turbo on for an S 10 that I have. It’s an older 6.0, I think a 99 still has the cast heads on it instead of aluminum. and congrats on the 17k subs great work.
You can go pick up some 706 or 862 from the junkyard or something which have smaller valves but smaller combustion chambers you may have seen his testing but they make more power untill you get pretty high in hp
What is the casting number off heads that 5.3 came with that crack oh and stock ls1 heads are an upgrade for 6.0 Incase you don’t want as much compression plus have a good size valves
Darn Richard what happened to your hair, it's good to see you again, long time from Silver State Classic and Mustang mags, been doing that way a long time, even soaking valves overnite in carb cleaner, thumbs up buddy.
Both ways is good, I prefer the longer one. Also you might want to do a quick hit on the exhaust ports with a die grinder it doesn't have to be mirror polish.
@richardholdener1727 your my go to guy for LS questions. What would be the best budget head gaskets for my gen 3 4.8. She has 284000 miles and needs a fresh set.
Like a old school engine builder told me use that razor blade like youre playing the guitar. Even working at GM you better use a razor blades (plastic) but we stilled used metal. Or they will charge an engine job back if a cleaning disk was used so you'll get in a habit of doing it. And jusy keep bout 20 on you at all times lol
On LS heads, take and spray brake cleaner on the dirty deck surface and let it sit, then do it again in a couple minutes, the brake clean will lift off most of the stuck on rubber coating without damaging the decks, then use new razors to scrape off what didn't come off easy
good opportunity to do a good valve job, bowl blend, and back cut the valves. Porting to raise air speed will help keep carbon from forming. It's not low buck, but the performance will be much improved forever.
I liked the long version. As the extra little detail could have been noticed easier vs the short version. But I like the short version if I just wanted a quick answer.
Scotch brite on a drill will polish just about anything. Get some Persian blue and put it in a thin coat all around the head and set the head on the block and rinse and repeat taking metal out with a hand sander with 180 grit to get better sealing than you'd get with a razor blade. You should get a perfect layer of blue on the block and the head and keep taking metal out until they are perfectly fitted together.
You should have built a low buck hot tank , would have used way less brake cleaner. Cheap 15 dollar 55 gal barrel, propane cooker, some water and purple power. Bam. Tanked heads cleaned
Awesome video. This is pretty much exactly how I did my 706 heads. Cleaning the pistons and the block deck was the hardest part for me. Alot of wd-40. Truck has been smoking quite a bit since I put it back together. Not all the time, mainly on startup. You think that's the wd-40 burning off or maybe something else? Good oil pressure and truck runs better than it ever has
Did you replace the valve stem seals. If not you probably burnt one up spinning the valve with the drill. I would say it is valve stem seal related because it's only on start up.
@@MJTAUTOMOTIVE yes I replaced all the valve seals. New head gaskets, lifters, valve springs, everything that I could. Compression is good. No coolant loss that I can tell. Great oil pressure and oil looks clean. I'm kinda stumped. Maybe I used too much wd 40 and other chemicals to get the pistons and block deck clean? Thats what I'm hoping neways
To "machine" valve seats on a Cuba budget: glue emery cloth(sandpaper) to the back of a valve and go to town. Just tried it, seems to work lol. Use something pointy to apply more pressure on the valve.
Hey Richard is it possible for you to do a video on how to remove a broken exhaust manifold stud from one of these heads. I’ve got a set of 706 heads and each one of them has one broken stud. And I like both the long and short versions. If you can include all the steps in the shorter version it’s probably better to go that route.
This is how my dad and I used to rebuild heads in our basement in 1983 when I didn't have money for machine shop rebuilds.... Glad to see we're not the only ones.... Love it!!!
Richard try replacing the $4.50 brake cleaner, with a one Quart REFILLABLE (Amazon) container, that is pressurized using a tire valve on the container.
We use this at our shop.
We buy one gallon plastic jugs of chemical. Fill the quart steel container. Screw the plug (which has the tire valve) into the container. Use the air hose, pressure up the container to 100 psi.
Also no cans to crush & throw in the trash.
Plus so much cheaper.
Thanks for all YOUR HELP.
Pro Tip;
After disassembling Your heads, take them and ALL the valves and such and completely immerse them in "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner from the dollar store.
It will cut Your clean up labor by 50-80%.. Seriously.
Kool vid as usual Richard.
Great job, Richard! This is the type of content we want!
Agreed! The lack of Holley product placement BS was refreshing as well! Keep on keeping it real.
We use the Holley HP a lot on the dyno
heres a tip, soak em in some diluted simple grean and they will come out looking brand new. Even takes off the oil staining.
thnx
Purple power
Richard Holdener Will this everything you did in the method shown in the video work on junkyard set of Gen 6 454 iron heads?
Awesome degreaser too i did mine soaked them they look new shiny
No joke, my favorite video. You always learn something new from watching an experienced dude do his work.
Only Richard would show you how to clean up heads then dyno test the results. Awesome content that's helping so many people and dispelling internet theories. Thank you!!
I like the long version with more detailed info. I can always skip info I don't need but can't add more info I want to a short video. I'm so glad to see people into fast cheap cars again. The LS has brought kids into the hobby again. In my day in the early 80's we spent many days looking for certain casting numbers. Now all you need is a junk yard LS and a cheap turbo. It's worth it to me to make all the rare old school hot rod parts I've saved for so many years obsolete. Finally after so many years of basically junk low power engines we have cheap engines everywhere anyone can make good power with. Now all we need is some good high octane pump gas like in 1970. Thanks for the info. I've learned so much from you. Please keep it up
Good vid . Not everybody gets to buy new aftermarket parts . This is where hot rodding started .
I've been doing heads like that on everything from an XR80 to a Chevy 350 for years. And yes it definitely works. Throw in a quick hand port and viola! Couple extra ponies!
Richard you are the man! I have always wanted to see that test done... Because I too have had great success with your "Razorblade" rebuild on Many Ford 4.6 engines.. I think one reason it works so well is you aren't sinking the valve like you do by doing a true valve job! Old School for the win!
Awsome content as always.
Growing up poor watching my blue
collar dad D.I.Y. EVERYTHING by soaking EVERYTHING metal in a tub of REGULAR Leaded gas before & after disassembly sure made it easy
to work on engines, transmissions,
& brake parts. Dirty, greasy, oily,
rusty, carbon build-up parts come out clean & ready for inspection, prepping & reassembly. Thank you
Richard for your valuable time, effort
& KNOWLEDGE....
You have some of the best,straight to the point videos around. I am seriously thinking about putting a LS in my 66 Chevelle rather than a 350 after seeing your videos.
Thanks
EZElk do it
I appreciate this video. Lots of us guys out here are doing razor blade rebuilds.
This is exactly what I LOVE to learn. I barely have a garage to build in n it's not mine. It my bosses. So this def hits home. Especially the valve compound trick. Thankyou!
Long version, you’ve been around engines for years and done multiples of engine work in comparison to the rest of UA-cam espeiclly the viewing portion of YT; knowledge is power. I didn’t watch this video because I wanted to know how to lap/freshen up heads, I watched it to hear some of the little observations you have made over years of experience. Anybody can do a how to video but I am here for the down n dirty observations and facts you have learned over the years. Never would I have thought the 10” header extension would drop power like it did but that’s what I’m here to find out. Me as a viewer I’ll admit I don’t know shit but here I am open minded willing to learn. Keep it up dynomaster! It feels pretty crazy seeing tests and videos come out after suggesting some of the topics; really appreciated content. Thank you Mr.Holdner
Do what ever you feel but don’t feel your work isn’t paying off or appreciated cause you are raising the bar whether you realize it or not.
Getter done Richard.
An excellent way to start off a Friday. Thanks
This is absolutely going to be the next big trend with junkyard builds.
#RazorbladeRebuild
I use a short piece of vacuum hose between the valve and drill.
That's the way I've always done it...
Same here. Works flawlessly
Also pressing handle end of a screwdriver against the valve face is easier on the hand than using a finger and allows more pressure for faster/better job.
Mint. I'm starting to love your channel and I hate most UA-camrs. Also you'll still get guys who think if you DONT send it to a machine shop and have it "built" by a professional in a clean room it's garbage...
A++
Pickin my heads up from gettin a VAT and bolts extracted at the machine shop today, then on to some home porting and valve lapping
I have used the cordless drill method to lap valves for years and it works great. I even took it a step further and used that method to grind a valve seat (actually lapping a new valve int an old seat) when replacing a badly burned exhaust valve on a 351. Took some time but eventually got it. That was in 2003 and the truck is still on the road. This is the kind of tech I had access to as a learning teenager working on my own stuff in the 80's.
And I thought I was the only one! We did this all the time back in the day!
This is great to know, since this is all I’ve ever done on my DIY rebuilds
Cool. I like both versions but would have liked to see the actual #s on the Dyno. Great vid though 👍👍 👍
Definitely like the long version better. Congrats on 17K! It’s awesome to see how fast your channel is growing. You definitely deserve it!!
I did the same thing this last weekend with my 5.3 799 heads.
I did almost this exact thing on my build. Only differences was I had access to a hot washer, I used a drill press and Emory cloth to clean valves, and a flat bar with wd-40 and 1000 grit sand paper. End result was still the same though. And heads perform very well for my daily.
Sand papered the mounting surface and it was so clean the heads looked freshly milled with those factory swirl cuts.
Did the same, reused head gaskets and all that stuff - works every time! 🤘
the head gaskets were damaged but reuse a lot
Loved the video i’m definitely gonna do that style rebuild on my 1989 GMC 3 x 3 that I haven’t shown on my channel yet
Great video ! Thanks keep the junkyard builds coming
I personally like the longer videos but if you do them all like this you could tell the short vid guys to skip to the short video at the end. Hopefully keep everyone happy.
You forgot to put them in the dish washer first!!! Works great!!!
I have never had to touch a valve seat on an LS. Everyone I have checked had no run out. I do replace all the valves. Elgin has intake and exhaust valve kits that are inexpensive. I found exhaust valve pitting and runout are not worth grinding. Be sure to measure overall valve length when replacing valves on gen 3 heads.
Lol on the old flatheads would glue a rubber tire valve steams face of the valve so use a drill saved alot of time can also glue sand paper to valve for really bad seats I was so glad when I finally got a carbide seat cutting set thanks for the video
I agree, razor blade rebuild can be great. If you understand fundamentals & details that matter to proper engine function
I love these kind of videos it keeps real engine machinists employed by fixing the backyard machinists mistakes
yeah right most "engine machinists" are hacks.
Lol ya ok sparky 🤣 you sound educated yup
Shorter version is what I prefer
It's like you were reading my mind, I was thinking about redoing the heads on my daily
Add to the quick n' dirty rebuild list - I've been "surfacing" heads for decades with ~180 grit paper on a large straight line air sander! Sure it won't flatten them if they're warped, but it does do a fantastic job of cleaning them up and since the board is so large (~3*17") it doesn't put little warps in them like a palm sander would.
Should do a best bang for buck truck upgrade? Cam only vs can and heads vs turbo?
We flatten the deck surface of heads, using wet & dry carbide sheets glued to a piece of thick flat glass.
Just move the engine head, back & forth until the deck of the head is all "machined".
Thanks
Great video Richard, I learn something new every day my friend.
Wow I’ve been doing valves with cordless drills for 15 years.. I literally thought I was the only one.!!!
Sorry, I did it in the 80's and don't think I invented it... 😉
Let me ask ya I'm doing a 4.8 for my old truck. I have the complete engine harness in your opinion is it worth keeping the harness and pinning it out and adding a fuse block or buy a new harness. Harness is from 1999. Thanks
as long as there is no damage
Early morning upload.Congratulations on 17,000 subscribers 🤙
thnx-hope you are one of them
Richard Holdener absolutely. Building engines is my favorite part of building cars. I am really digging the content🤘🤘
I used a drill method but mine's a little different I use a piece of quarter inch fuel line hose put a stud in one end and then spinning on to the stem and use that instead of directly connecting my drill to the top of the stem
I use a drill bit and a hose also I have a fine and a coarse grade compound I use.
The valve guide wil thank you
This is funny. Lol. I was doing this ...what u call Razor blade Rebuild, 35 year's ago!!! No, I haven't perfected it, because nothing really operates as good as fresh WELL DONE MACHINE WORK!! But..to add to your style? Well..for one, you kept bouncing the Valve on &off the valve seat?? Actually this is Unessecery and Counter productive!! Just hold very slight pressure on valve and turn until its shiny, NOT...WITH SHIT STILL ON THE SEAT.LOL I have a second &third but..you are informative and helpful so..keep up the good videos!!
Richard, when lapping the valves, does it matter which direction you do it in? Also is the there a speed and / or torque that is ideal?
I used Not too fast-light touch and check the pattern
If the valve starts to go blue you are spinning it too fast.
YES!!! I love this stuff... more like "Uncle Tony's Garage"!!!
Not all of us have deep pockets ;-)
P.S. when the content is this good...make 'em as long as you want.
Uncle Tony does good stuff over there
Richard! I love the videos! You’re doing great things!
Did you use new rings after giving a fresh crosshatch?
used rings
@Richard Holdener 😂, I like how you and the guys at Sloppy Mechanics don't mind busting the old myths about the SBC. Rock on 🤘
Can you a decked vs. non-decked dyno comparison? I’d really like to know if it’s worth paying for or not
Decking is really only needed if you have an uneven surface. The bump in compression from decking could be had more easily and cheaply with thinner head gaskets.
Sean Lockhart I would definitely advise decking if you know your motor your building overheated. Also, the quality control isn’t perfect at all the foundries that cast heads, and along with shipping that can sometimes be rough, a brand new head shipped to your house isn’t always perfectly flat all the time. That goes for blocks too.
Easy Off works great too. Just don't leave it on aluminum for a real long time.
I've had the best luck with the name brand original one.
It's good to see those Happy Hands doing something, besides flapping away in the air. ;) lol
The gesticulations of a show man.Better than still photos in CAR CRAFT magazine.
you should see them at the junkyard-it'll put your eye out!
Great video as always hopefully to save some cash for go fast parts like to see more of these videos since I'm in the process of my own rebuild. Thank you
As I was watching this, a dishwasher on the pot scrubbing cycle came to mind.
NOW your takeing my kind of budget build.
17k subs!!! CONGRATS!!!
This time next year I bet he has 170k. :)
I hope so-lots of cool (very cool) testing coming up
Another great video, keep it ☝
Nice work , I’m trying to decide between an old Conventional small buck or I have a 6.O outback that I was thinking of maybe just doing a single turbo on for an S 10 that I have. It’s an older 6.0, I think a 99 still has the cast heads on it instead of aluminum. and congrats on the 17k subs great work.
You can go pick up some 706 or 862 from the junkyard or something which have smaller valves but smaller combustion chambers you may have seen his testing but they make more power untill you get pretty high in hp
James Holbrook thanks that’s what I’m thinking.
excellent idea, cleaning with E85. I haven't tried that, and not sure if its even avail here in Texas. Oil is king here, not corn.
Best rebuild vid on UA-cam. No kidding.
Do you ever work with Fords?
wrote two books on Fords and still have my 1988 5.0L LX (Original Owner)-lots of Ford testing
What is the casting number off heads that 5.3 came with that crack oh and stock ls1 heads are an upgrade for 6.0 Incase you don’t want as much compression plus have a good size valves
Darn Richard what happened to your hair, it's good to see you again, long time from Silver State Classic and Mustang mags, been doing that way a long time, even soaking valves overnite in carb cleaner, thumbs up buddy.
it all left or caught on fire
Just found this channel and love it!!!
A whetstone and WD-40 (gallon can, so many uses) gives the deck a nice finish.
Both ways is good, I prefer the longer one. Also you might want to do a quick hit on the exhaust ports with a die grinder it doesn't have to be mirror polish.
I love the long videos!!!!!
@richardholdener1727 your my go to guy for LS questions. What would be the best budget head gaskets for my gen 3 4.8. She has 284000 miles and needs a fresh set.
WE USE FEL PRO
@richardholdener1727 awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. If it's good enough for Richard, it's good enough for me!
Dude I’m hooked on this channel!! Subscribing now!!
I like the longer version better. I do have to question the 3 angle valve job. If done correctly it should have picked up some HP.
You can use a body file with sandpaper to go over to heads to make sure they are flat.
So it shall be the way .!!!!
Like a old school engine builder told me use that razor blade like youre playing the guitar. Even working at GM you better use a razor blades (plastic) but we stilled used metal. Or they will charge an engine job back if a cleaning disk was used so you'll get in a habit of doing it. And jusy keep bout 20 on you at all times lol
On LS heads, take and spray brake cleaner on the dirty deck surface and let it sit, then do it again in a couple minutes, the brake clean will lift off most of the stuck on rubber coating without damaging the decks, then use new razors to scrape off what didn't come off easy
good opportunity to do a good valve job, bowl blend, and back cut the valves. Porting to raise air speed will help keep carbon from forming. It's not low buck, but the performance will be much improved forever.
I liked the long version. As the extra little detail could have been noticed easier vs the short version. But I like the short version if I just wanted a quick answer.
Do you have any videos of you prepping a junkyard bottom end? Or could you recommend a video?
My 03 Yukon 4.8 has the 862's what kind of power can they make?...can you do a video on those?...
Excellent content Richard, thanks!!
How you going to take the time and not show numbers? Within a couple numbers? What were the numbers?
2-3 hp and only in two spots on the curve
I have been doing this for the last 20 years
Scotch brite on a drill will polish just about anything. Get some Persian blue and put it in a thin coat all around the head and set the head on the block and rinse and repeat taking metal out with a hand sander with 180 grit to get better sealing than you'd get with a razor blade. You should get a perfect layer of blue on the block and the head and keep taking metal out until they are perfectly fitted together.
You should have built a low buck hot tank , would have used way less brake cleaner. Cheap 15 dollar 55 gal barrel, propane cooker, some water and purple power. Bam. Tanked heads cleaned
Gonna try that
@@prod.yayo5715 it works. Done it and so has a buddy. We've cleaned lots of shit
Awesome video. This is pretty much exactly how I did my 706 heads. Cleaning the pistons and the block deck was the hardest part for me. Alot of wd-40. Truck has been smoking quite a bit since I put it back together. Not all the time, mainly on startup. You think that's the wd-40 burning off or maybe something else? Good oil pressure and truck runs better than it ever has
I'd check for blow by, look at plugs, test the compression and leak down.
Did you replace the valve stem seals. If not you probably burnt one up spinning the valve with the drill. I would say it is valve stem seal related because it's only on start up.
@@MJTAUTOMOTIVE yes I replaced all the valve seals. New head gaskets, lifters, valve springs, everything that I could. Compression is good. No coolant loss that I can tell. Great oil pressure and oil looks clean. I'm kinda stumped. Maybe I used too much wd 40 and other chemicals to get the pistons and block deck clean? Thats what I'm hoping neways
valve seals maybe
Residual exhaust carbon. How is it now?
Carburetor cleaner not spray but the one that comes in a gallon works really good for cleaning valves or piston
awesome content as always couple # s away from $ ……..how far from just throwing them on ?
probably nothing
works everytime.👍
Great video
Thanks for the Great tips !
To "machine" valve seats on a Cuba budget: glue emery cloth(sandpaper) to the back of a valve and go to town. Just tried it, seems to work lol. Use something pointy to apply more pressure on the valve.
Is that a steel wire wheel or a brass one ?
Count you use a wire wheel to clean the head surface?
great video , could you do one on the difference mild ported heads versus custom porting
I like the longer version video
In a time like this, I’d say, what would sloppy do?
Hey Richard is it possible for you to do a video on how to remove a broken exhaust manifold stud from one of these heads. I’ve got a set of 706 heads and each one of them has one broken stud. And I like both the long and short versions. If you can include all the steps in the shorter version it’s probably better to go that route.
Will gasket porting 706 heads really make a difference?
not on the intake port-that's not where the problem is
Squirt some oil on the valve stems before spinning them in a drill
He didn't spin them fast enough or long enough to do any harm. Not needed.