Notice how black the old oil is. That's a sign combustion gasses are leaking past the rings into the crank case. So yes, I'd say piston rings are probably your problem.
@@anthonyr5869 That used to happen in the old days with very rich mixtures during cold starts ("cylinder wash", liquid fuel in the cylinder going past the rings). In this case I believe the rings leak during the power stroke when cylinder pressure is the highest and fuel is already burnt pushing soot past the rings into the oil..
Your check engine light is on. That issue needs to be addressed first. I already can tell by how dark the oil gets that it is getting burned from blow by due to weak piston rings. This video series was very informational I’ve been a mechanic for over 35 years but I’m telling you now if you put piston rings in this car it’s gonna run so much better also mill the head down .005” inch for better compression when you rebuild you will love the Power increase
I doubt rings will Lost more than 5-10k miles. If that. By the time you break the glaze on the cylinders with a hone and measure I would be you have .008-.010 clearance and these cars should be set up at around .003-.004. Now that would be wasting money. I would bet $100 those cylinders are oval shaped and would need to be bored .020.
Back in the day, the common thought was to use dinosaur oil but those days are over. High mileage full synthetic oil doesn't cost much more than regular synthetic and I've seen enough sludge and carbon build-up from dinosaur oil & synthetic blends to understand the difference. One site states: "High mileage oils contain seal conditioners and additives that cause o-rings, gaskets and seals to swell. In some cases, older valve-guide seals in engines may have reduced seepage. This can result in lower oil consumption. Many high mileage motor oils include detergents and claim they are designed to remove sludge from engines." I've been using the extended performance high mileage full synthetic oil that says it protects for 20k miles, but I still change at 5K.
Hey Dave thank you for the video! Great job 👍. I have to share the crazy thing I've been doing in my Corolla. *First thing is putting Seafoam High mileage in the crank case and driving 200 miles to flush engine out. *Second Change oil *Third, "and here is where I need you to hear me out" take 2 quarts of your full synthetic 5w-30 and 2 quarts of 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil and put both in your engine. "The diesel oil has much higher detergents in it than normal gas engine oil." It will help clean the stuck piston rings by throwing a lot of cleaning detergent at them. My 2005 Corolla has 384,000 on it now and it only consumes 3/4 of a quart over 5,000 miles.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY At around 270,000 miles ish... It was using 3 quarts over a 5,000 mile oil change interval. I actually wasn't sure why I was changing it due to it using it so fast and me adding it so often hahaha.
Welp ill add another thing to try. How much seafoam were you adding? Ill give it a shot. I drive this car 500 miles a week on my commute. Ive ran 5w-40 and 15w-40 in mine just to try and slow it down and i get it for dirt cheap because im a diesel mechanic. Ill give this a shot this weekend since im due for an oil change anyway. Ive also tried two quarts 20-50 and 2 quarts of Dex/merc atf with no luck because ATF is extremely high in detergents.
@@Clayman302 I would not use the 15w or the 20w oils they are to thick for our little oil pump. You may over tax it and cause it to starve itself of oil. Thus not lubricating the oil pump and obviously not getting enough oil to the top end. 5w40 diesel oil is designed for small diesels with a turbo that uses the engine oil to lubricate the turbo. It still needs to clean all the soot out but also get into all the tighter clearances inside that smaller turbo. That is basically what we are trying to do with the diesel oil, really get in there and clean those rings. After you notice the consumption is non-existent or just way better go back to the 5w30 and do the 8oz of Seafoam thing 200 miles before an oil change. This is what I've been doing and it is better than it was by a lot.
Sorry to hear Dave! I agree to try the BG Dynamic cleaner, there is also Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W30 - C883592GA. Its a cleaner oil meant for commercial Cummings diesel engines to clean engine buildup. Can only be purchased at a dealer also....Good luck!
Yup. It is the piston rings. I replaced mine in the car over a short weekend using higher tension rings. easy peasy.stopped my oil burning. I put on a new head which had new buckets and stem seals.
Still enjoying these videos. I have a 2003 Rav4 with a 1ZZ and it burns a quart every 650-700 miles. No leaks, no smoke, drives great and is fuel efficient. These videos are helping a lot!
There's one thing i have always wanted to try since there is so many engines out there with oil burning issues and full rebuild of the block are expensive for an old car. If you only want it to stop burning oil and not be brand new, your compression and cylinder walls seems okish. What if you drop the oil pan, remove spark plug to not fight compression, remove rod cap, lower the piston down to the point oil ring is out, but not compressions rings. Maybe chuck the piston with wood while you work on it so it can't move lower. Manually clean the groove until no more carbon. Maybe even drills the oil holes a little bit bigger if possible. Put new oil ring and try to push it back up. Oil ring wont fight you like compression rings. It's time consuming but very cheap in parts. No seal other than the oil pan's one. You would even save head gasket by not touching the head. Is it possible? Would you dare such a task hahaha? It's high risk, but if it's working, really high reward for the price.
I like this idea. I was actually considering doing something similar just before the ring job--- if ring job looks necessary. Thanks for the comment Patrick!
I think the crank would still be in the way. The pistons will not drop down far enough to get to the oil rings. Unless Toyota engine are different. Between the crank pins and the counter weights being in the way there is not enough room to do what you need to do. BG makes a product that is used for cleaning super dirty cruded up engines. It not cheap and takes a while to do it correctly but definitely easier than a piston and ring job.
Can someone send this poor man a Fumoto Valve 😁 also you are doing a great job, and you are doing a fine job NOT PREFILLING the oil filter. You run the risk of sending dirt through first run. Good job 👍🏻
The oil control ring is sticky, run a full bottle of seafoam high mileage in the crankcase, and accelerate and take it on the freeway multiple times, cleaned my camry and the oil stopped disappearing, also make sure you change pcv every oil change.
I like you honest attitude. And yes I learned few things from your videos and Im glad that my learning is heloing you in making these useful videos. Yes, despite the fact that you could have fixed with a rebuild, this new concept of "hey guys learn from my mistakes" is very educational to us. Thanks for sharing and keep it up.
No one should complain about you making money you're just hustling a lot of people don't even want to get out of their couch keep doing what you're doing
In life you must never listen to most people, if you disagree with 80 % of people you are probably right. I really enjoyed these episodes so keep up the good work.
i had stuck piston rings and what solved it for me was burning off the deposits by putting the engine under full load at maximum throttle keeping revs over 5,000rpm for several minutes. a hill/slope/mountain several miles long or something is ideal as it wont accelerate that much but it will make the engine work hard and put out maximum heat to the pistons/rings. my car was like yours, previous owner did short journeys and probably never gave the car a good thrash to burn the crap off.
@@davepetrakos1192 thanks i went and watched it, he had some really good improvement. however he didnt do quite the same as i described as the engine wasn't under maximum load, he needed to do the same thing he did but driving up a hill with full throttle.
I think that the best and fastest method to clean drain back holes is to bring each piston BTC with valves closed, fill the cylinders that are in this position with a solvent that is known to dissolve carbon deposits and with compressed air force the solvent past the piston and hopefully through the drain back holes to clear these holes. The solvent could be collected, strained and run back through several times to get the best use of the product. Repeat with each cylinder.
Try installing a KrankVent made by hayden. the 1/2 inch size. splice In the breather hose that is between valve cover and the intake tube before throttle body. it helps keeps a slight vacuum in the crankcase and reduce oil consumption. I have a honda s2000 with 260k on it that burns 1qt every 500 easily. now it’s up to almost 1200miles right after installing it. i’ve literally tried everything just like you. so it’s definitely a ring problem. with the krankvent installed you will hear a slight vacuum when you pull dipstick, is normal. they’re about 100$
The Italian Tune Up! Use a bottle of Jectron, a bottle of Royal Purple Gas Treatment and a bottle of AUTOPROFI Cat Cleaner together before that good hard long fast drive, gunning it up to 90-100mph as long as you feel safe, and truly blow the crap out! Of you put it in a nearly empty tank and use High Octane to fill/mix it is just a bonus. I did that after using the LiquiMoly Engine Flush before a 225 mile cross Florida trip and even in my 6600 lb Tundra got nearly 14mpg, up from 8-9 local short driving a while. Got over 15 the next same long trip averaging 75mph. Also, oil use decreased significantly. Am sure the old girl could use more new bits and pieces but why go nuts if it doesn't need it. LOL
I really appreciate that, Marcus! ... I've loved watching how-to stuff since I was very little, so I try to make sure my content is safe for the youngsters as well. Thanks again!
Just bought some today..I bought a used 18 Taco 3.5 v6 with 165k..purrs like a kitten. No CEL's..but started to smoke white/ gray hue on startup the dies down in 2 minutes and maybe a tad of smoke from a stop to Go at traffic lights..it didn't smoke at the lot the 2 days I swung by, but after i added some full synthetic to bring the level up a half quart, it started this smoking..got the Rislone to put in..we'll see..its my rings or valve seals I suspect.
Problem is caused by Toyota recommending 7500+ mile oil changes. Top down soaks ( not just 4 oz and evaporation the solvent will leak past. Put more in over a few days. There is a GM ring unstick solvent… 20 bucks…. Then lighter weight oils and road trips…. It needs to clean itself the super tech full synthetic is excellent. It’s hard to free gummed up oil rings… hence the long road trips recommended… you’ve done too much already… And when you put solvent in the oil don’t be in a rush to change the oil 10 minutes later, started up and stop it 20 minutes at a time for 10 days straight you need solvents to dissolve the gum. As long as the car is not under old it’s fine.
Loving this series extremely, educational..... Hoping you can try the product that we discussed about a month ago the one one that Scotty Kilmer is promoting. Thanks again for doing all of this.
Thanks Glenn. I remember, ATS 505 CRO. Looks like you have to buy a case of 12. www.atscarbonclean.com/product/case-of-505cro-oil-system-treatment/ ... ... or buy it from this place www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ATSDSI1040.htm?pn=ATS-DSI1040&SVSVSI=226&DID=210771 ... but both are "temporarily unavailable."
Very cool to watch. This is something id like to do if my resources werent limited. Valuable research and im looking forward to more piston cleaning/disassembly to see what was really causing the problem and was it fixable with additives/detergents/solvents
We have a 2005 Toyota Corolla that we use for work. It's an oil burner era car. This car was burning oil as I had to add one to two quarts every 2000 miles. Mechanic advised and he told us to fill oil to high mark on dipstick. Then add another quart or two. Car stopped burning oil period. Car know has 206,000 miles and doesn't burn oil and gets regular 3000 mile oil changes.
Try this idea of connecting a transparent, or semi transparent, hard but still flexible 1/4" tubing onto top of engine valve cover and bring into the car's cabin. Install a very low range compound pressure gauge. Get its reading at idling, at 20mph, 30mph, 40mph and also compare with manifold intake pressure display by a generic OBD2 plug and display unit. Air intake manifold pressure can be as low as -0.5barg or -50kpa. Pressure inside the engine valve cover should be only around - 0.10 to - 0.15barg?. Regard.
Always show safety first by applying the emergency brake, supports system with wheel caulks to caulk the back wheels to prevent a car from dropping or rolling away for some unknown reason. Its alot of amateur mechanics out there and DIY's so let's keep everybody safe, carry on with your brilliance sir.
Great vid thanks Dave. I have exactly the same problem and have tried a couple of additives although I can’t get the same as you here in NZ. I also completed the valve stem seals ( with similar problems ha ha ) and with similar results…a small improvement but still a problem. All my compressions are good so I am coming to the same conclusion as you are…oil control rings. I will await your next video with interest. I believe there was a piston change in 2003 production. Thanks again for the vids.
Hi over there to you both guys. Do you think it could be a problem with the head gasket? What do you think about this possibility? Is there any trace of oil creeping out from the meeting surface of the head and the block for instance?
Short of a total teardown and each part soaked & scrubbed, this engine needs to be *_rinsed out_* and use 0W-30 oil with frequent oil filter changes, until it is clean- then use only 0W-30 as oil. The "rinse" is 1qt kerosene + 1qt conventional ATF and the remaining 0W-30 to 1/2 qt over full. Idle at 3k RPM 30 minutes, drain HOT overnight. New filter each time. This must be performed at least twice, back to back. 2 quarts kerosene 2 quarts conventional ATF 7 quarts 0W-30 2 filters. After this procedure, refill normally with 0W-30 & a filter. Spirited driving, highway is low RPM, transmission is doing all the work of torque. High revs and long idling keeps engines clean. Police cars & ambulance rarely shut down- run 200k - 1,000's of hrs. frequent oil & filter based on hours, not miles.
Double check the cylinder walls with your borescope. The video you shoot before showing wall on cylinder 3 is full of leaking oil, and you think the oil is come from valve stem oil seal leak, so I think it is time to verify it. With reference from The Car Care Nut channel, it is best to inspect cylinder walls by a dual-lens borescope.
I fill the filter myself if I can. 75% of engine damage occurs on cold startup. And a cold startup that needs to put the oil through the filter first is just that much more half seconds of wear
Any oil that is burning is also going through the Air/fuel, and O2 sensors then the cats. This contamination will result in a P0420 eventually. Replacing the cats will merely add more cost to your experiment, and they too will fail. Less oil will extend the life of the cats, but they will fail.
The ring lands have been pressure/heat compacted with carbon over time. If that expensive BG Dynamic Clean don't cut it no pour in product will. You'd have to use your connections to get the BG system as they only sell it to shops. A shop owner in New Jersey who has a podcast says mixing brake fluid with the oil is a LAST ditch hail Mary for internal cleaning.
run engine flush for longer, 5-10mins isnt enough, a good hour of idling would really help. if you are too scared, just make sure to use engine flush that has anti wear additives.
Exactly, people are too afraid, and manufactures are scared to recommend what’s really needed, when it’s a quart and a half low, do for a toil change anyway, put in a quart and a half of motor flush, run it for a half hour a day for a week in the driveway, let it sit for a few days, then change the oil… Center wait oil to get into those clogged oil rings… Not 10W-30 5w 20 Then go on a road trip and drive fast for 1000 miles… That will reduce the oil consumption by half, and then religious oil changes will keep cleaning the rings (Hopefully if they’re not turn to super glue already)
What about trying out amsoil engine flush and than amsoil signature series motor oil and see if there's improvement because amsoil Claims to be 100%full synthetic and can last up to 20k miles or year I believe and after seeing some amsoil videos I would really like to see that put to test on this vehicle.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks.i just started watching your videos and they are very informative.I don't know where you get your pascience and dedication from but keep it up.
I think I heard right this is a 2002 Toyota Corolla? They are notorious for oil burning. Toyota gave this motor too much stroke. They fixed this in 2003+ so before 2003 they are known for burning oil.
Have you considered pouring Acetone or Ethyl Acetate into the cylinders? From using these in the past (not for this)I know they are excellent at breaking down carbon, they might stand a chance of freeing the rings if they are stuck from a carbon build up.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Don’t think you’ll have any contact with any seals if your just filling the cylinders. You could flush the cylinders with some brake cleaner after letting them soak in the acetone to flush any remaining Acetone out.
Acetone should work nicely. I think it is the most used carbon dissolver in chemical industry. It is used to suspend the carbon to filter out any impurities like graphite or active carbon. Filter it and then just flash off the acetone and you are left with just carbon. If you are concerned about the engine seals you could leave the oil drain plug out while keeping the cylinders topped up with acetone. And to fight evaporation, put the spark plugs back in hand tight. If you have a cheap lawnmower maybe you could try the acetone on it's pistonhead first. Also i have been looking into a product called Piston Kleen. Made out of 1-5% pentasodium triphosphate. I wonder if one could get their hands on to some 100% stuff. Piston Kleen is supposedly 50 times better at dissolving carbon from firearms than other fiream cleaners. Haven't tried it and haven't looked into how toxic the stuff is. In the olden days people used to clean the sludge out of crankcases with diesel fuel. Supposedly cleans carbon deposits also and is supposed to be seal friendly i guess. Just fill the whole thing up to the brim and let it soak a day maybe even two. After that let most of the diesel out. Try to leave the amount in that you would have oil in the engine. Check that the bores aren't filled with diesel. Take the spark plugs and the fuel pump relay out. Then run the engine with the starter just to circulate the diesel around the oil passages. And to get any dissolved stuff out of the passages. After that let it drain. And do a couple oil changes letting the engine idle up to temperature in between. If feeling brave you could also replace one quart of the engine oil with diesel and let the engine idle for 30 to 60 minutes in 2 or 3 cycles letting the engine cool off some in between the cycles. Seems to be ok for the bearings if kept at idle. The above I have tried once. Bought a neglegted car. Engine sludged up. Did the cleaning with diesel. And drove the car for another 20 000miles until aquiring a more spacious car. My family member still has the car and it is in working order ,appears that the procedure didn't do any harm. Helped on oil burning some, but the turbo seals and valve stem seals needed changing too. The car now has around 260 000 miles on the clock.
I cant take it anymore. please get yourself a graduated cylinder of some kind. Preferably in milliliters. Yes Im American. If you are going to be precise. be precise! I love your videos .
Those oil drain back holes are nearly impossible to get soaked and cleared, maybe if the soak and cleaning was done early early in it’s life periodically as maintenance in its life then yes it will work but, nearly impossible to clear those holes caked hard up with carbon, just pull and rebuild or replace pistons, the soaking can drastically improve stuck oil control rings that have been carbon up but to clean the holes is nearly impossible
Try wih BG Dnamic engine cleaner, before tear down the engine. Is expensive but It does clean the engine. If that engine is only dirty it Will solve the oil burnig.
Sir it is pistons drain back holes drilled at a up angle instead of being down. Toyota issued the recall. You will need to replace pistons and rings. You will find oil ring groove full of carbon. Like you videos
my experience was that after the drain back holes in piston clogged the oil in the oil control ring had no place to go so it just cooked into carbon,.not sludge or dirty oil but hard as a rock carbon,..making the oil control rings non functional,...I dont believe any chemical additive is going to break that up......anyhows that's what mine was like
Hey Dave, it would be interesting to see if there is still oil leaking from the top of the engine now that you replaced the spark plug valve cover gaskets and the valve stem seals as it was the case in your previous borescope videos I rewatched those parts and wonder whether that problem still exist or it was resolved
I'm planning to rescope as part of the next (Corolla) video to look at that very thing, ronda. I think there are going to be some surprises :-) ... Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I thought the oil was leaking only in cylinder 3 from what I remembered, but when I rewatched I think I saw oil in cylinders 2 and 4 as well, although 3 was the worst, funny how memory works sometimes! Looking forward to your next video
Good video. Id just go 1 step thicker on the oil weight and observe. i doubt it is a gunk issue, the rings are just worn. If your really adventurous you could rebuild and do a quick hone and new rings.
You can't do a hone job on a toyota. The clearance is to small you would lose lots of compression. Once you have any kind of cylinder wall damage on a toyota it's junk yard material.
Fill the whole engine with diesel fuel, until it fills up the heads and let it sit for a day or two. I bet you that would loosen up those stuck rings. This method has been done to cars with sludge buildup. But they would also add a tube inside of the engine and pump air to agitate the carbon/sludge
Ive tried most of the fluids you have on my 2000 Corolla with no luck. Im considered mixing diesel fuel or kerosene in the oil to see if that works. Ive tried seafoam, marvel mystery oil, lucas motor treatment, ATF, engine restore, stp oil treatment. Hoping you figure something out I really don’t feel like doing rings but if i do i only paid $200 for the car.
It was obvious it werent stem seals in the moment the car wasnt smoking like crazy during cold start and the fact that if stem seals fail, they fill the combustion chamber with oil (like a lot) to a point that it smokes after startup, we never seen that in his videos so it was safe to say stem seals werent the cause but they would still endup being shot sooner or later anyway.
Do you guys have engine flush called TEC 2000 in the US ? Not only there is whole channel dedicated (from poland) with before and after videos of it fixing compression and oil usage but it also helped me with M54 based E46 BMW. That thing was taking around 1 quart per 1200 miles. Now iam at around 3000 miles per quart. Which means iam only topping off the oil once per oil change. The engine also has notorious problem with piston rings. It was just a suggestion, engine flush is kind of the same principle no matter who makes it but it appears some of the brands add their own "know how" into the mix. Other option as suggestion would be BG 109 EPR, which i know comes from US so you can definitely pick it up. They even have specific use case for engine flush like 30 minutes and actually holding RPM at 1500+ while the procedure is happening. Which i dont think i saw another engine flush instructions to have it.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks for replying I'm kinda in the same boat. I have a 2004 Honda element that burns about 3/4 of a quart of oil. And I can see it coming out of the exhaust but only after long idles. I'm going to try replacing the valve stem seals.
The oil catch can on my car since is a gdi engine help bit with the consumption and some engine treatment I have a Mazdaspeed protege hads a lot of blowbys
Yoo chief. How long you change your engine oil? Mine 98 papa corolla has excessove oil consumption too,I am afraid should i change it before 5000 miles or no.(Castrol edge 5w30 full synth from walmart,. Changed 6 months ago)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks boss. Good advice to keep this old papa corolla running still even it's almost dinosaur. Poor man like me still need them to take us to the place we want so we can make our own living!!!
run Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil - it will help slow down oil burning alot. it is really good oil and pretty cheap at walmart. that super thin synthetic oil isnt not helping you at all.
By the way I subscribed and liked. I got a quick question can I replace a timing guide on my 2003 Toyota matrix 2WD 1ZZ-FE without removing the engine now that would be a blessing to me and my family.Please let me know and show everyone how to do it.
I haven't done it, but here's a video I found on someone else doing it with the engine in the car. This is actually part 2, you'll probably want to check out his channel for part 1. ua-cam.com/video/jKSnfm3zuBg/v-deo.html
Hey Dave, was there any special procedure to filling the coolant and removing air pockets? do you use one of those spill free funnels and "burp" the system?
You’ve done a lot of testing for sure so I bought an 08 acura tl type s and the oil pan is leaking from the seal but only from a certain spot and the pan has hondabond which could be the old owner didn’t install it properly so what additive do you think works well with hondabond rtv? I’ve used Bars one seal and it didn’t work do they sent me the most expensive additive they have which should be able to stop it but I haven’t used it yet.
@@SoddingaboutSi Right. I hear you Simon. I was just saying since it appears the cylinders aren’t terribly worn (IMO because of the visible crosshatching) it could be the pistons are worn instead, right? Since they’re aluminum they could be wearing down especially on the front and back faces? So maybe the pistons are now oval instead of round, and might therefore have too much clearance on the front and back faces. I know that’s a fairly common reason for piston slap. I was just trying to clarify what your thought was. BTW You’ve got a cool channel 👍🏻👍🏻
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Piston slap from memory is usually caused by loose tolerances and piston/bore wear. But I know what it sounds like. A light knocking as the aluminium piston expands to take up some of the slop. Pretty sure that's the problem. When the engine was cold it had a rattle on application of power . That sounded like piston slap.The piston rocks along the pivot of the wrist pin letting oil past the rings.
The problem is using cheap oil like the kind that you are getting from Wallyworld house brand! You REALLY need to be using something better, like Mobil1 and then you can experience 500kmi. You asked for input and I’m just trying to give you mine.
I would say it age is the problem . I would think the old girl is paided for. if it was mine Run her tell she's dead but is not . The cost of rebuilding the lower end is not cheep I you do only the ring on a tired old motor you could brake a piston because of out of roundness or throw a rose bairing because eof new higher pressure are more hp. Just some thing to think about. Get a lower mileage salvaged (junk yard) motor. Good luck
Previous video in this series: Valve stem oil-seals part 2 start to finish: ua-cam.com/video/dIxDj90UHnk/v-deo.html Next video in this series: Blue Driver Scan tool results - Shooterlube comparison: ua-cam.com/video/MRgDwcvWNyo/v-deo.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Oh man, dry start up alert. Fill the filter up with oil. Entire oil system loses prime and so on.... Only takes 27 more seconds guy. Lets stop being lazy here.
Have you thought about using Diesel and mm oil. And you should use that mixture every oil change run it for a few weeks before every oil change. But overall nice job with the series. Thanks.
Notice how black the old oil is. That's a sign combustion gasses are leaking past the rings into the crank case. So yes, I'd say piston rings are probably your problem.
‘Combustion gases’ would dilute the engine oil and they would make the oil more ‘watery’ overly impregnated with gasoline basically
@@anthonyr5869 That used to happen in the old days with very rich mixtures during cold starts ("cylinder wash", liquid fuel in the cylinder going past the rings).
In this case I believe the rings leak during the power stroke when cylinder pressure is the highest and fuel is already burnt pushing soot past the rings into the oil..
@@anthonyr5869 this is a problem solved by catch cans
Or oil additives breaking down carbon getting into the oil.
Overheating can make the oil turn black in no time as well.
Your check engine light is on. That issue needs to be addressed first. I already can tell by how dark the oil gets that it is getting burned from blow by due to weak piston rings. This video series was very informational I’ve been a mechanic for over 35 years but I’m telling you now if you put piston rings in this car it’s gonna run so much better also mill the head down .005” inch for better compression when you rebuild you will love the Power increase
I doubt rings will
Lost more than 5-10k miles. If that. By the time you break the glaze on the cylinders with a hone and measure I would be you have .008-.010 clearance and these cars should be set up at around .003-.004. Now that would be wasting money. I would bet $100 those cylinders are oval shaped and would need to be bored .020.
engine light is probabaly on due to the oil being burnt clogging up the cat, exactly what happened with mine.
Back in the day, the common thought was to use dinosaur oil but those days are over.
High mileage full synthetic oil doesn't cost much more than regular synthetic and I've seen enough sludge and carbon build-up from dinosaur oil & synthetic blends to understand the difference.
One site states: "High mileage oils contain seal conditioners and additives that cause o-rings, gaskets and seals to swell. In some cases, older valve-guide seals in engines may have reduced seepage. This can result in lower oil consumption. Many high mileage motor oils include detergents and claim they are designed to remove sludge from engines."
I've been using the extended performance high mileage full synthetic oil that says it protects for 20k miles, but I still change at 5K.
Hey Dave thank you for the video! Great job 👍. I have to share the crazy thing I've been doing in my Corolla.
*First thing is putting Seafoam High mileage in the crank case and driving 200 miles to flush engine out.
*Second Change oil
*Third, "and here is where I need you to hear me out" take 2 quarts of your full synthetic 5w-30 and 2 quarts of 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil and put both in your engine. "The diesel oil has much higher detergents in it than normal gas engine oil." It will help clean the stuck piston rings by throwing a lot of cleaning detergent at them. My 2005 Corolla has 384,000 on it now and it only consumes 3/4 of a quart over 5,000 miles.
Thanks Ryan. How much oil was your Corolla using to begin with?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY At around 270,000 miles ish... It was using 3 quarts over a 5,000 mile oil change interval. I actually wasn't sure why I was changing it due to it using it so fast and me adding it so often hahaha.
Welp ill add another thing to try. How much seafoam were you adding? Ill give it a shot. I drive this car 500 miles a week on my commute. Ive ran 5w-40 and 15w-40 in mine just to try and slow it down and i get it for dirt cheap because im a diesel mechanic. Ill give this a shot this weekend since im due for an oil change anyway. Ive also tried two quarts 20-50 and 2 quarts of Dex/merc atf with no luck because ATF is extremely high in detergents.
@@Clayman302I put 8 oz in the crank case 200 miles before an oil change.
@@Clayman302 I would not use the 15w or the 20w oils they are to thick for our little oil pump. You may over tax it and cause it to starve itself of oil. Thus not lubricating the oil pump and obviously not getting enough oil to the top end. 5w40 diesel oil is designed for small diesels with a turbo that uses the engine oil to lubricate the turbo. It still needs to clean all the soot out but also get into all the tighter clearances inside that smaller turbo. That is basically what we are trying to do with the diesel oil, really get in there and clean those rings. After you notice the consumption is non-existent or just way better go back to the 5w30 and do the 8oz of Seafoam thing 200 miles before an oil change. This is what I've been doing and it is better than it was by a lot.
Sorry to hear Dave! I agree to try the BG Dynamic cleaner, there is also Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W30 - C883592GA. Its a cleaner oil meant for commercial Cummings diesel engines to clean engine buildup. Can only be purchased at a dealer also....Good luck!
Yup. It is the piston rings. I replaced mine in the car over a short weekend using higher tension rings. easy peasy.stopped my oil burning. I put on a new head which had new buckets and stem seals.
Still enjoying these videos. I have a 2003 Rav4 with a 1ZZ and it burns a quart every 650-700 miles. No leaks, no smoke, drives great and is fuel efficient. These videos are helping a lot!
There's one thing i have always wanted to try since there is so many engines out there with oil burning issues and full rebuild of the block are expensive for an old car. If you only want it to stop burning oil and not be brand new, your compression and cylinder walls seems okish. What if you drop the oil pan, remove spark plug to not fight compression, remove rod cap, lower the piston down to the point oil ring is out, but not compressions rings. Maybe chuck the piston with wood while you work on it so it can't move lower. Manually clean the groove until no more carbon. Maybe even drills the oil holes a little bit bigger if possible. Put new oil ring and try to push it back up. Oil ring wont fight you like compression rings. It's time consuming but very cheap in parts. No seal other than the oil pan's one. You would even save head gasket by not touching the head. Is it possible? Would you dare such a task hahaha? It's high risk, but if it's working, really high reward for the price.
I like this idea. I was actually considering doing something similar just before the ring job--- if ring job looks necessary. Thanks for the comment Patrick!
I think the crank would still be in the way. The pistons will not drop down far enough to get to the oil rings. Unless Toyota engine are different. Between the crank pins and the counter weights being in the way there is not enough room to do what you need to do. BG makes a product that is used for cleaning super dirty cruded up engines. It not cheap and takes a while to do it correctly but definitely easier than a piston and ring job.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610I was thinking the exact same things😂
I don't think the oil rings drop low enough to clear the bottom of the cylinder wall. That would result in the oil ring possibly getting hung up.
Can someone send this poor man a Fumoto Valve 😁 also you are doing a great job, and you are doing a fine job NOT PREFILLING the oil filter. You run the risk of sending dirt through first run. Good job 👍🏻
I was thinking same thing 😂
The oil control ring is sticky, run a full bottle of seafoam high mileage in the crankcase, and accelerate and take it on the freeway multiple times, cleaned my camry and the oil stopped disappearing, also make sure you change pcv every oil change.
I like you honest attitude. And yes I learned few things from your videos and Im glad that my learning is heloing you in making these useful videos.
Yes, despite the fact that you could have fixed with a rebuild, this new concept of "hey guys learn from my mistakes" is very educational to us.
Thanks for sharing and keep it up.
No one should complain about you making money you're just hustling a lot of people don't even want to get out of their couch keep doing what you're doing
In life you must never listen to most people, if you disagree with 80 % of people you are probably right. I really enjoyed these episodes so keep up the good work.
I always change the filter first. Less chance of a 'splash' you didn't expect.
i had stuck piston rings and what solved it for me was burning off the deposits by putting the engine under full load at maximum throttle keeping revs over 5,000rpm for several minutes. a hill/slope/mountain several miles long or something is ideal as it wont accelerate that much but it will make the engine work hard and put out maximum heat to the pistons/rings.
my car was like yours, previous owner did short journeys and probably never gave the car a good thrash to burn the crap off.
Check out his vid on Berryman. He did the Italian Tune-up you described in that video.
@@davepetrakos1192 thanks i went and watched it, he had some really good improvement. however he didnt do quite the same as i described as the engine wasn't under maximum load, he needed to do the same thing he did but driving up a hill with full throttle.
I think that the best and fastest method to clean drain back holes is to bring each piston BTC with valves closed, fill the cylinders that are in this position with a solvent that is known to dissolve carbon deposits and with compressed air force the solvent past the piston and hopefully through the drain back holes to clear these holes. The solvent could be collected, strained and run back through several times to get the best use of the product. Repeat with each cylinder.
I don't have a compressor but this idea sounds great I might have to make something up maybe a bike pump with an adapter of some sort
Try installing a KrankVent made by hayden. the 1/2 inch size. splice In the breather hose that is between valve cover and the intake tube before throttle body. it helps keeps a slight vacuum in the crankcase and reduce oil consumption. I have a honda s2000 with 260k on it that burns 1qt every 500 easily. now it’s up to almost 1200miles right after installing it. i’ve literally tried everything just like you. so it’s definitely a ring problem. with the krankvent installed you will hear a slight vacuum when you pull dipstick, is normal. they’re about 100$
Try a high rpm, under extreme stress, run on the car. Its worked for me. A Toyota tech told me to do this.
The Italian Tune Up!
Use a bottle of Jectron, a bottle of Royal Purple Gas Treatment and a bottle of AUTOPROFI Cat Cleaner together before that good hard long fast drive, gunning it up to 90-100mph as long as you feel safe, and truly blow the crap out! Of you put it in a nearly empty tank and use High Octane to fill/mix it is just a bonus.
I did that after using the LiquiMoly Engine Flush before a 225 mile cross Florida trip and even in my 6600 lb Tundra got nearly 14mpg, up from 8-9 local short driving a while.
Got over 15 the next same long trip averaging 75mph.
Also, oil use decreased significantly.
Am sure the old girl could use more new bits and pieces but why go nuts if it doesn't need it.
LOL
I e been fighting my mustang with this problem for a few months now. Thanks for the reference point.
this is such a wholesome channel. love your content man!
I really appreciate that, Marcus! ... I've loved watching how-to stuff since I was very little, so I try to make sure my content is safe for the youngsters as well. Thanks again!
Risolone high mileage engine treatment highly recommended for this issue.
Just bought some today..I bought a used 18 Taco 3.5 v6 with 165k..purrs like a kitten. No CEL's..but started to smoke white/ gray hue on startup the dies down in 2 minutes and maybe a tad of smoke from a stop to Go at traffic lights..it didn't smoke at the lot the 2 days I swung by, but after i added some full synthetic to bring the level up a half quart, it started this smoking..got the Rislone to put in..we'll see..its my rings or valve seals I suspect.
Problem is caused by Toyota recommending 7500+ mile oil changes. Top down soaks ( not just 4 oz and evaporation the solvent will leak past. Put more in over a few days. There is a GM ring unstick solvent… 20 bucks…. Then lighter weight oils and road trips…. It needs to clean itself the super tech full synthetic is excellent. It’s hard to free gummed up oil rings… hence the long road trips recommended… you’ve done too much already… And when you put solvent in the oil don’t be in a rush to change the oil 10 minutes later, started up and stop it 20 minutes at a time for 10 days straight you need solvents to dissolve the gum. As long as the car is not under old it’s fine.
Loving this series extremely, educational..... Hoping you can try the product that we discussed about a month ago the one one that Scotty Kilmer is promoting. Thanks again for doing all of this.
Thanks Glenn. I remember, ATS 505 CRO. Looks like you have to buy a case of 12. www.atscarbonclean.com/product/case-of-505cro-oil-system-treatment/ ... ... or buy it from this place www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ATSDSI1040.htm?pn=ATS-DSI1040&SVSVSI=226&DID=210771 ... but both are "temporarily unavailable."
Very cool to watch. This is something id like to do if my resources werent limited. Valuable research and im looking forward to more piston cleaning/disassembly to see what was really causing the problem and was it fixable with additives/detergents/solvents
It the valve seals were leaking, it would smoke on deceleration
You could go straight for the BG Dynamic Engine flush. Think you can find it for online for around $300
Its been nice fallowing this experiment. Glad to see you have limited the burning a little bit. Progress is always nice.
Really enjoy this research. Also love the photography, even the bird songs in the background. Thanks.
I really appreciate that, Albert!
We have a 2005 Toyota Corolla that we use for work. It's an oil burner era car. This car was burning oil as I had to add one to two quarts every 2000 miles. Mechanic advised and he told us to fill oil to high mark on dipstick. Then add another quart or two. Car stopped burning oil period. Car know has 206,000 miles and doesn't burn oil and gets regular 3000 mile oil changes.
I think replacing the valve stem seals at an early stage will help prevent the rings to freeze! After the rings freeze, it’s just too late!
Try this idea of connecting a transparent, or semi transparent, hard but still flexible 1/4" tubing onto top of engine valve cover and bring into the car's cabin. Install a very low range compound pressure gauge. Get its reading at idling, at 20mph, 30mph, 40mph and also compare with manifold intake pressure display by a generic OBD2 plug and display unit. Air intake manifold pressure can be as low as -0.5barg or -50kpa. Pressure inside the engine valve cover should be only around - 0.10 to - 0.15barg?. Regard.
Always show safety first by applying the emergency brake, supports system with wheel caulks to caulk the back wheels to prevent a car from dropping or rolling away for some unknown reason. Its alot of amateur mechanics out there and DIY's so let's keep everybody safe, carry on with your brilliance sir.
Kool update Dave! Patiently waiting for the next update... 😉
Thanks 👍
try Dynamic Engine Restoration from BG. they seem to clean engine pretty well.its a bit on the expensive side but i have high hopes
Will definitely keep that one in mind. That'll probably be the last chemical before re-ringing :-)
Amsoil power foam is expensive, but it works
Great vid thanks Dave. I have exactly the same problem and have tried a couple of additives although I can’t get the same as you here in NZ. I also completed the valve stem seals ( with similar problems ha ha ) and with similar results…a small improvement but still a problem. All my compressions are good so I am coming to the same conclusion as you are…oil control rings. I will await your next video with interest. I believe there was a piston change in 2003 production. Thanks again for the vids.
Thanks Paul. Yeah, if we end up doing the rings, we might get those upgraded pistons.
Hi over there to you both guys. Do you think it could be a problem with the head gasket? What do you think about this possibility? Is there any trace of oil creeping out from the meeting surface of the head and the block for instance?
Short of a total teardown and each part soaked & scrubbed, this
engine needs to be *_rinsed out_* and use 0W-30 oil with frequent
oil filter changes, until it is clean- then use only 0W-30 as oil.
The "rinse" is 1qt kerosene + 1qt conventional ATF and the remaining
0W-30 to 1/2 qt over full. Idle at 3k RPM 30 minutes, drain HOT overnight.
New filter each time. This must be performed at least twice, back to back.
2 quarts kerosene
2 quarts conventional ATF
7 quarts 0W-30
2 filters.
After this procedure, refill normally with 0W-30 & a filter. Spirited driving,
highway is low RPM, transmission is doing all the work of torque. High revs
and long idling keeps engines clean. Police cars & ambulance rarely
shut down- run 200k - 1,000's of hrs. frequent oil & filter based on
hours, not miles.
I like the 0W-30 idea. I can see how it would help with the cleaning.
Double check the cylinder walls with your borescope. The video you shoot before showing wall on cylinder 3 is full of leaking oil, and you think the oil is come from valve stem oil seal leak, so I think it is time to verify it. With reference from The Car Care Nut channel, it is best to inspect cylinder walls by a dual-lens borescope.
that's right, the cylinder walls are the problem, but would still be interesting to see how new rings go, keep up the good work
I fill the filter myself if I can. 75% of engine damage occurs on cold startup. And a cold startup that needs to put the oil through the filter first is just that much more half seconds of wear
Please sir, use a tire chalk and at least one jack stand under when using ramps, I've seen them collapse sideways from a wind gust
Love the experiments 👍
Curious if use of oil catch can would help, perhaps to prevent oil from being circulated into combustion chamber?
Thanks. I'm seriously considering the catch-can for a future experiment!
Any oil that is burning is also going through the Air/fuel, and O2 sensors then the cats. This contamination will result in a P0420 eventually. Replacing the cats will merely add more cost to your experiment, and they too will fail. Less oil will extend the life of the cats, but they will fail.
The ring lands have been pressure/heat compacted with carbon over time. If that expensive BG Dynamic Clean don't cut it no pour in product will. You'd have to use your connections to get the BG system as they only sell it to shops. A shop owner in New Jersey who has a podcast says mixing brake fluid with the oil is a LAST ditch hail Mary for internal cleaning.
run engine flush for longer, 5-10mins isnt enough, a good hour of idling would really help. if you are too scared, just make sure to use engine flush that has anti wear additives.
Exactly, people are too afraid, and manufactures are scared to recommend what’s really needed, when it’s a quart and a half low, do for a toil change anyway, put in a quart and a half of motor flush, run it for a half hour a day for a week in the driveway, let it sit for a few days, then change the oil… Center wait oil to get into those clogged oil rings… Not 10W-30 5w 20 Then go on a road trip and drive fast for 1000 miles… That will reduce the oil consumption by half, and then religious oil changes will keep cleaning the rings (Hopefully if they’re not turn to super glue already)
What about trying out amsoil engine flush and than amsoil signature series motor oil and see if there's improvement because amsoil Claims to be 100%full synthetic and can last up to 20k miles or year I believe and after seeing some amsoil videos I would really like to see that put to test on this vehicle.
i wonder if filling the cylinders with piston kleen and turning the motor over by hand ,and letting in soak ,would work,
I haven't seen you do a compression test yet.
Keep making great videos.Thanks.
Did one a few videos back… but I’ll probably do another soon.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks.i just started watching your videos and they are very informative.I don't know where you get your pascience and dedication from but keep it up.
@@glenhesketh1 Thanks Glen. Much appreciated!
Try the AMSOIL motor flush or try some Lucas oil stabilizer with your next oil change/top off
I’ve had pretty good luck with them in the past
I'll keep the AMSOIL in mind.
I think I heard right this is a 2002 Toyota Corolla? They are notorious for oil burning. Toyota gave this motor too much stroke. They fixed this in 2003+ so before 2003 they are known for burning oil.
It's a learning experience!!
Have you considered pouring Acetone or Ethyl Acetate into the cylinders?
From using these in the past (not for this)I know they are excellent at breaking down carbon, they might stand a chance of freeing the rings if they are stuck from a carbon build up.
I haven't looked into the Ethyl Acetate, but someone warned against the Acetone, saying it would eat through seals. I'll check it out. Thanks.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Don’t think you’ll have any contact with any seals if your just filling the cylinders. You could flush the cylinders with some brake cleaner after letting them soak in the acetone to flush any remaining Acetone out.
Acetone should work nicely. I think it is the most used carbon dissolver in chemical industry. It is used to suspend the carbon to filter out any impurities like graphite or active carbon. Filter it and then just flash off the acetone and you are left with just carbon. If you are concerned about the engine seals you could leave the oil drain plug out while keeping the cylinders topped up with acetone. And to fight evaporation, put the spark plugs back in hand tight.
If you have a cheap lawnmower maybe you could try the acetone on it's pistonhead first.
Also i have been looking into a product called Piston Kleen. Made out of 1-5% pentasodium triphosphate. I wonder if one could get their hands on to some 100% stuff. Piston Kleen is supposedly 50 times better at dissolving carbon from firearms than other fiream cleaners. Haven't tried it and haven't looked into how toxic the stuff is.
In the olden days people used to clean the sludge out of crankcases with diesel fuel. Supposedly cleans carbon deposits also and is supposed to be seal friendly i guess. Just fill the whole thing up to the brim and let it soak a day maybe even two. After that let most of the diesel out. Try to leave the amount in that you would have oil in the engine. Check that the bores aren't filled with diesel. Take the spark plugs and the fuel pump relay out. Then run the engine with the starter just to circulate the diesel around the oil passages. And to get any dissolved stuff out of the passages.
After that let it drain. And do a couple oil changes letting the engine idle up to temperature in between.
If feeling brave you could also replace one quart of the engine oil with diesel and let the engine idle for 30 to 60 minutes in 2 or 3 cycles letting the engine cool off some in between the cycles.
Seems to be ok for the bearings if kept at idle.
The above I have tried once. Bought a neglegted car. Engine sludged up. Did the cleaning with diesel. And drove the car for another 20 000miles until aquiring a more spacious car. My family member still has the car and it is in working order ,appears that the procedure didn't do any harm. Helped on oil burning some, but the turbo seals and valve stem seals needed changing too. The car now has around 260 000 miles on the clock.
In this car also officially calls for 10W-30
I cant take it anymore. please get yourself a graduated cylinder of some kind. Preferably in milliliters. Yes Im American. If you are going to be precise. be precise! I love your videos .
Yeah. I really should.
Those oil drain back holes are nearly impossible to get soaked and cleared, maybe if the soak and cleaning was done early early in it’s life periodically as maintenance in its life then yes it will work but, nearly impossible to clear those holes caked hard up with carbon, just pull and rebuild or replace pistons, the soaking can drastically improve stuck oil control rings that have been carbon up but to clean the holes is nearly impossible
Try wih BG Dnamic engine cleaner, before tear down the engine. Is expensive but It does clean the engine. If that engine is only dirty it Will solve the oil burnig.
Thanks Javier. BG dynamic engine cleaner is probably coming soon. We’ll see!
Sir it is pistons drain back holes drilled at a up angle instead of being down. Toyota issued the recall. You will need to replace pistons and rings. You will find oil ring groove full of carbon. Like you videos
my experience was that after the drain back holes in piston clogged the oil in the oil control ring had no place to go so it just cooked into carbon,.not sludge or dirty oil but hard as a rock carbon,..making the oil control rings non functional,...I dont believe any chemical additive is going to break that up......anyhows that's what mine was like
That does sound like a reasonable explanation.
Top rad hose is not OEM. Looks cut too short. See the white exposed plastic on rad hose nipple? And non OEM clamp?
Just wondering, did you try adding some Durable Lube to your engine to see if it help?
I've tried AT-205 and had success. Have you tried that?
I've tried it in other cars ... I don't think I tried in this one yet though.
It does but only smoke during cold start.
Good work
Why not replace the engine with a low mileage Japanese motor?? That’s what I do to troublesome Subarus(at times)
He's trying to find an alternative for those of us who don't necessarily have the time, money or resources for an engine replacement.
Hey Dave, it would be interesting to see if there is still oil leaking from the top of the engine now that you replaced the spark plug valve cover gaskets and the valve stem seals as it was the case in your previous borescope videos
I rewatched those parts and wonder whether that problem still exist or it was resolved
I'm planning to rescope as part of the next (Corolla) video to look at that very thing, ronda. I think there are going to be some surprises :-) ... Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I thought the oil was leaking only in cylinder 3 from what I remembered, but when I rewatched I think I saw oil in cylinders 2 and 4 as well, although 3 was the worst, funny how memory works sometimes!
Looking forward to your next video
Your car is the reason why oil prices are crazy huh ?
I literally laughed out loud.
Good video. Id just go 1 step thicker on the oil weight and observe. i doubt it is a gunk issue, the rings are just worn. If your really adventurous you could rebuild and do a quick hone and new rings.
Or find a Donor junkyard engine.
You can't do a hone job on a toyota. The clearance is to small you would lose lots of compression.
Once you have any kind of cylinder wall damage on a toyota it's junk yard material.
I have a feeling there is not a lot of piston rings left
Fill the whole engine with diesel fuel, until it fills up the heads and let it sit for a day or two. I bet you that would loosen up those stuck rings. This method has been done to cars with sludge buildup. But they would also add a tube inside of the engine and pump air to agitate the carbon/sludge
Thanks for the suggestion!
Ive tried most of the fluids you have on my 2000 Corolla with no luck. Im considered mixing diesel fuel or kerosene in the oil to see if that works. Ive tried seafoam, marvel mystery oil, lucas motor treatment, ATF, engine restore, stp oil treatment. Hoping you figure something out I really don’t feel like doing rings but if i do i only paid $200 for the car.
Wow, you've tried pretty much all the stuff folks are recommending. Thanks for the info!
Would using a thicker oil help reduce oil burning?
Ooohw the disappointment! I watched all these videos and I really hoped for you it would be valve stem seals :(
Thanks Ebo ... we can just say it's more fun ahead :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY you didn't try the lubricant engine restorer yet, right? Project Farm had some great results with it. Curious what that does :)
It was obvious it werent stem seals in the moment the car wasnt smoking like crazy during cold start and the fact that if stem seals fail, they fill the combustion chamber with oil (like a lot) to a point that it smokes after startup, we never seen that in his videos so it was safe to say stem seals werent the cause but they would still endup being shot sooner or later anyway.
You were halfway on the dipstick.
Do you guys have engine flush called TEC 2000 in the US ? Not only there is whole channel dedicated (from poland) with before and after videos of it fixing compression and oil usage but it also helped me with M54 based E46 BMW. That thing was taking around 1 quart per 1200 miles.
Now iam at around 3000 miles per quart. Which means iam only topping off the oil once per oil change. The engine also has notorious problem with piston rings. It was just a suggestion, engine flush is kind of the same principle no matter who makes it but it appears some of the brands add their own "know how" into the mix. Other option as suggestion would be BG 109 EPR, which i know comes from US so you can definitely pick it up. They even have specific use case for engine flush like 30 minutes and actually holding RPM at 1500+ while the procedure is happening. Which i dont think i saw another engine flush instructions to have it.
I just did a search and couldn't find it available for purchase here .. so I guess not.
Is the car smoking excessively from the exhaust ?
No smoke while driving. It Wil send a puff after being parked for a few hours.
Put 15/40 high viscosity diesel oil in it it'll clean the carbon out
Is your burned oil coming out of your exhaust? And if so when?
Not really. The cat seems to be doing a good job of cleaning it up.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks for replying
I'm kinda in the same boat. I have a 2004 Honda element that burns about 3/4 of a quart of oil. And I can see it coming out of the exhaust but only after long idles. I'm going to try replacing the valve stem seals.
Sounds like a good place to start. I've done a few Honda valve stem seals myself ... much easier than Toyota!!@@didiermejia780
Wow that power steering and brake fluid need a serious dump too. Stuff is black.
13:09 I see it half way
The oil catch can on my car since is a gdi engine help bit with the consumption and some engine treatment I have a Mazdaspeed protege hads a lot of blowbys
Yoo chief. How long you change your engine oil? Mine 98 papa corolla has excessove oil consumption too,I am afraid should i change it before 5000 miles or no.(Castrol edge 5w30 full synth from walmart,. Changed 6 months ago)
I bought this one when it already had an oil burning problem ... but I try to change my oil between 3-5000 miles. I don't do extended oil changes.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks boss. Good advice to keep this old papa corolla running still even it's almost dinosaur. Poor man like me still need them to take us to the place we want so we can make our own living!!!
Try mobil 1 oil filter
Did you consult with those Japanese engineers, instead of these guessing trials of hoping to find the correct a diagnosis...?
run Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil - it will help slow down oil burning alot. it is really good oil and pretty cheap at walmart. that super thin synthetic oil isnt not helping you at all.
By the way I subscribed and liked. I got a quick question can I replace a timing guide on my 2003 Toyota matrix 2WD 1ZZ-FE without removing the engine now that would be a blessing to me and my family.Please let me know and show everyone how to do it.
I haven't done it, but here's a video I found on someone else doing it with the engine in the car. This is actually part 2, you'll probably want to check out his channel for part 1. ua-cam.com/video/jKSnfm3zuBg/v-deo.html
Hey Dave, was there any special procedure to filling the coolant and removing air pockets? do you use one of those spill free funnels and "burp" the system?
I don’t recall removing any coolant hoses to do this job, James. 🤔
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY oh, right. you didnt pull the head. sorry. mine is air locked and im having heck with it
Aw, man, hate that for you. Coolant issues are not fun.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY no biggy. new (to me) car, ill figure it out.
Different oils burn faster than others try Different oil
You’ve done a lot of testing for sure so I bought an 08 acura tl type s and the oil pan is leaking from the seal but only from a certain spot and the pan has hondabond which could be the old owner didn’t install it properly so what additive do you think works well with hondabond rtv? I’ve used Bars one seal and it didn’t work do they sent me the most expensive additive they have which should be able to stop it but I haven’t used it yet.
Try engine restore additive
Check piston to bore clearance. I still think that's your problem after hearing that piston slap.
Interesting. So you think it's the pistons that are worn and not the bore?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY The rattle says piston to bore clearances are out of spec.
@@SoddingaboutSi Right. I hear you Simon. I was just saying since it appears the cylinders aren’t terribly worn (IMO because of the visible crosshatching) it could be the pistons are worn instead, right? Since they’re aluminum they could be wearing down especially on the front and back faces? So maybe the pistons are now oval instead of round, and might therefore have too much clearance on the front and back faces. I know that’s a fairly common reason for piston slap. I was just trying to clarify what your thought was. BTW You’ve got a cool channel 👍🏻👍🏻
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Piston slap from memory is usually caused by loose tolerances and piston/bore wear. But I know what it sounds like. A light knocking as the aluminium piston expands to take up some of the slop. Pretty sure that's the problem. When the engine was cold it had a rattle on application of power . That sounded like piston slap.The piston rocks along the pivot of the wrist pin letting oil past the rings.
The problem is using cheap oil like the kind that you are getting from Wallyworld house brand! You REALLY need to be using something better, like Mobil1 and then you can experience 500kmi. You asked for input and I’m just trying to give you mine.
Thanks Todd.
Is this not a common issue due to bad piston and ring design.
Yep.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY How is it that it is burning so much oil but yet runs so nicely?
Re-ring that engine already 🤣🤣
too much detail and repeating oil level checking. Just use the dipstick and stay under 'too full' and let it go,.
...was the valve cover gasket replaced with a new one and small 'dots' of RTV to seal the small areas that need it?
If you can find $1000 engine rebuild....sign me up
I would say it age is the problem .
I would think the old girl is paided for. if it was mine
Run her tell she's dead but is not .
The cost of rebuilding the lower end is not cheep I you do only the ring on a tired old motor you could brake a piston because of out of roundness or throw a rose bairing because eof new higher pressure are more hp.
Just some thing to think about.
Get a lower mileage salvaged (junk yard) motor.
Good luck
You do not want to fill he filter with oil because you can have contaminants in the filter and it can ruin your engine
get rid of the synthetic oil and watch the oil consumption stop.
Use regular oil.. not synthetic.. you will have less burn
Previous video in this series:
Valve stem oil-seals part 2 start to finish: ua-cam.com/video/dIxDj90UHnk/v-deo.html
Next video in this series:
Blue Driver Scan tool results - Shooterlube comparison: ua-cam.com/video/MRgDwcvWNyo/v-deo.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Oh man, dry start up alert. Fill the filter up with oil. Entire oil system loses prime and so on.... Only takes 27 more seconds guy. Lets stop being lazy here.
Have you thought about using Diesel and mm oil. And you should use that mixture every oil change run it for a few weeks before every oil change.
But overall nice job with the series.
Thanks.