All data says you got have special tools to lift motor enuf to do it, look like you had right idea, did you unbolt motor mounts? Or was that something different?
I'm in the process of the same thing, I have a motor which was replaced at the factory as the initial stock motor must of failed inspection right before the vehicle left the factory. Mine is a GT40 Cobra SBF 5.0L V8 OHV on an Explorer 1999. Which explained why the block and everything on it was extremely high quality and not degrading. Now this motor on your Ranger has the exact same clearance issue mine has and I just got done dismounting the front differential. If one does not want to jack up the motor just completely uninstall the front differential and only remove the passenger side CV Axle from the differential, I did not have to do it all the way just enough to push the drivers side more to the left. I ultimately ended up doing both simply because I am a regular behemoth sized person that required the clearance space. Additionally: I would add a note on this video that its safe to Jack the Crankshaft with or without the Harmonic Balancer on as its heavily connected to the transmission (mine is a 4R70W) just make sure certain mounting bolts to the vehicle frame have been "unbolted" to enough clearance.
Thanks for sharing the video. I have a 1995 Ford Explorer with the 4.0L and it has this exact same oil pan and the two bolts for the starter. One question I hope somebody can answer, I removed all the bolts around the oil pan including the two bolts that go through the transmission bell housing but the oil pan is stuck hard in place, is there something else I need to remove for the oil pan to come loose? Safety tip for you, get yourself a set of actual ramps to get the truck higher, the stack of 2X4s you are using make me cringe.
Thank you for this video. I'm actually getting ready to do this to my 1994 ranger 4x4 manual transmission. I was preparing to pull the motor. But now I'm not going that route.
I have the same truck the year modle I have is a 94 with 4.0Lv6 automatic 4wd do I have to remove the engine to take the oil pan off to get to my oil pump or remove the transfer case to take the oil pan off it should drop to the ground the oil pan ?
Question I understand on being able to remove oil pan. Same year, same model, except I have a manual trans. My reason for pulling the oil pan is relacing the rod bearings. Can this be done?
Doesn't tell me everything I need to know, but it helps. I have a 99 Explorer. Different front suspension. I can't even get my pan to let go of the engine...yet.
Did you have to pull the exhaust off to clear the Oil Pan? Mine seems to come right at the bottom of the transmission in the back of the oil Pan so it doesn't seem to clear, so I'm wondering if you pulled your exhaust off and slid it backwards
Thank you for the video! I will be removing one on a 2001XLT 4x4 automatic trans. U Tube videos like your give me the insight I need. Keep up the fine work and thank you Addison for your work!👍👊💪🙂
Thanks that was very helpful usually I have to pull motor but thanks for the advice I gotta do this on mine maybe I might get lucky and it's just the valve covers lol but thank you very much
Definitely glad i found your video. Looking at buying a 97 with the 4.0 that has a leak from the pan.
Thank you, this is what I needed! I have the 1997 Mazda B4000 (essentially the Ranger 4000) two wheel drive, and it has the exact same oil pan.
All data says you got have special tools to lift motor enuf to do it, look like you had right idea, did you unbolt motor mounts? Or was that something different?
MUCH APPRECIATION!...BEEN STRUGGLING FOR 2 DAYS WITH ENDLESS VIDEOS!...IM WORKING ON A 96 WITH THE EXACT SAME SETUP
Does your pumpkin look like his? Mine is way different in my 96 4x4.
I'm in the process of the same thing, I have a motor which was replaced at the factory as the initial stock motor must of failed inspection right before the vehicle left the factory. Mine is a GT40 Cobra SBF 5.0L V8 OHV on an Explorer 1999.
Which explained why the block and everything on it was extremely high quality and not degrading.
Now this motor on your Ranger has the exact same clearance issue mine has and I just got done dismounting the front differential.
If one does not want to jack up the motor just completely uninstall the front differential and only remove the passenger side CV Axle from the differential, I did not have to do it all the way just enough to push the drivers side more to the left. I ultimately ended up doing both simply because I am a regular behemoth sized person that required the clearance space.
Additionally: I would add a note on this video that its safe to Jack the Crankshaft with or without the Harmonic Balancer on as its heavily connected to the transmission (mine is a 4R70W) just make sure certain mounting bolts to the vehicle frame have been "unbolted" to enough clearance.
What size are the bolts? I feel like the ones by the transmission are different if i can recall
Thank you I'm takeing on a project now with one really don't wont to remove the motor lol thank you 🤙 ps mine 02 👍
My 96 has a way beefier front axle and cross member. It's not coming out.
Thanks for sharing the video. I have a 1995 Ford Explorer with the 4.0L and it has this exact same oil pan and the two bolts for the starter.
One question I hope somebody can answer, I removed all the bolts around the oil pan including the two bolts that go through the transmission bell housing but the oil pan is stuck hard in place, is there something else I need to remove for the oil pan to come loose?
Safety tip for you, get yourself a set of actual ramps to get the truck higher, the stack of 2X4s you are using make me cringe.
Awesome video, have any issues getting the rear corners of the block clean for the gasket ears? Those little pockets around the rear main area.
I pulled the axles and front diff out like a silverado arelady had the trans half out doing the rear main seal lol
I’m not a mechanic, but I’m about to give it a go. Wish me luck. I might scream for help 😂
So is yours a 4x4 ?
Thank you for this video. I'm actually getting ready to do this to my 1994 ranger 4x4 manual transmission. I was preparing to pull the motor. But now I'm not going that route.
Did you do your 94? I have the same year 4.0 manual. Was this video helpful?
I have the same truck the year modle I have is a 94 with 4.0Lv6 automatic 4wd do I have to remove the engine to take the oil pan off to get to my oil pump or remove the transfer case to take the oil pan off it should drop to the ground the oil pan ?
Question
I understand on being able to remove oil pan.
Same year, same model, except I have a manual trans.
My reason for pulling the oil pan is relacing the rod bearings.
Can this be done?
was the back two bolts by transmission T30's on oil pan, your pan was the only one i found like mine also 2 bolts on starter, 1997 Mazda B4000 4.0 2wd
Doesn't tell me everything I need to know, but it helps. I have a 99 Explorer. Different front suspension. I can't even get my pan to let go of the engine...yet.
Did you have to pull the exhaust off to clear the Oil Pan? Mine seems to come right at the bottom of the transmission in the back of the oil Pan so it doesn't seem to clear, so I'm wondering if you pulled your exhaust off and slid it backwards
Thank you for the video! I will be removing one on a 2001XLT 4x4 automatic trans. U Tube videos like your give me the insight I need. Keep up the fine work and thank you Addison for your work!👍👊💪🙂
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks I have to do this to my 2000 Ranger too
Great job I been struggling all day with this
Thanks that was very helpful usually I have to pull motor but thanks for the advice I gotta do this on mine maybe I might get lucky and it's just the valve covers lol but thank you very much
love it, great info I'm doing mines this weekend
Nice video! Just about to do this to an explorer I just picked up cheap. Thanks bro.
Thank you for the information
Good work
Do mine next, do mine next haha😅
Thanks! Saved me some grief...
Can u change mine lol
💯👍