Thank you so much for this. I watched this video probably 10 times or so before attempting the job on my 2000 Ford Ranger v6 3.0L 4WD Automatic. So it took me around 8 hours, but that was because I was being super cautious as to not break anything. Also my truck is super rusted so it took forever to get the engine mount nuts off. Had to use 2 extensions with a swivel and a breaker bar to get them loose as I do not have an impact gun. Lets just say my arms are sore. But yes this is the way to do it. I had to remove the oill pump bolt and removed the old oil pan with the oil pump as I could not get the pan off without doing that. I just reached my hand in there from the front of the engine and was barely able to reach it with a combo wrench. Luckily I was able to install the oil pump back first, and then finagle the new pan on. Currently I am waiting for the RTV to dry before re-filling with oil. Will update once I fill it to confirm no leaks
I just finished this project and for you to do it in 2 hours is really special, being as how I spent 2 hours beating my head against the wall for listening to you! What a PITA! Thanks for posting this video as it IS doable. I was dealing with a 2000 4x4 5spd (drivelines attached, wheels pulled but everything intact except (axlewise) for dropping the pass. side axle as instructed) and there was no moving the motor and trans. back another inch to clear. I ended up with my foot in the engine compartment, rocking the sob back and forth in frustration, which did the trick. That, and sticking a 11/16" wrench between the flywheel inspection cover and the back of the oilpan and clearancing just a tad by prying. Installed gasket on oilpan w/ black rtv in correct placement and popped that son of a gun back into place with the palm of my hand. Bolts lined up good and everything buttoned up real easy. I'm pleased to say it did not kick my ass but it did put up one hell of a fight! Thanks again Bruce, for inspiring confidence and great instruction.
Doing my 2001 3.0 V6 ranger. Jacking up the engine alone wasnt enough to remove my oil pan. We used a dremel and cut the flexplate THEN jacked up the motor and barely got the oil pan out. If you're doing top and bottom end work, strongly consider pulling the motor out
I just did this job on a 2WD, and found it extremely easy. Didn't need to jack the engine or trans up, simply after prying the pan from the plate between trans and block it fell down and I took it out. Customers truck I'm working on it a 2001 2WD, but it is the Edge model. And it has torsion bars. So maybe that makes a difference? Thanks for the vid!
Yes you helped. I just did this on my 98 Ranger 4x4 3.0 Auto, It was not fun! took about 4 hours cause im 50 and I did it in a gravel driveway.. Slightly bent baffle up on removal, so i made the shim plate between motor and tranny removeable so much easier on the reinstall. Old style oil pans dont have the big baffle in them cause they are not absolutely needed for a grocery getter. I thought about removing the oil pump, but noticed i could get it if i pryed down on the differential housing for the last 1/4 inch clearance needed. Also I used 4 ton lowboy shop jack. I took pics since a lot of guys dont believe it can be done.🛻
Great video demonstration! Just performed a timing chain housing gasket which was the source of the leaking water(previous thought to be a year and half old water pump). This was all performed on a 1999 ford ranger 3.0L 2wd that took about 16 hours (with a couple of beer brakes) over the course of 2 days. We were forced to raise the motor about 4 inches to attempt to remove the oil pan which did not end up working. Even after we cut the inspection plate we where not able to remove the oil pan. After messing around with undoing the oil pump, we eventually got the oil pump installed (was removed for pretty much no reason) with two people and finagled the new oil pan gasket around the oil pump. Once completed we finished cleaning the surfaces of the housing applied a thin coating of RTV gasket. Once installed moved on to the water pump which was thought to be the cause of this whole project (we where in for a surprise) a new water pump was installed (old one was warranted so why not) as well as anti-seize copper coated gasket to help seal the bond between the water pump and timing chain housing. All thats left to do tomorrow is fill with 5 quarts of oil and dump some coolant in . Thanks again for the ideas time to crack a cold one!
Following these simple steps worked perfectly !! Thank you man ! I appreciate you taking your time to make this video. Your awesome. Hope all is good for you!
Hi I have a 2wd 2004 ford ranger with coil spring suspension and did this job and had to unbolt transmission. I originally cut the shield he’s referring to in video no space at all to remove oil pan. Then I removed engine mount bolts and lifted engine by transmission bell housing(also removed the crossmember bolts on the tail of tranny) 3 whole inches and still couldn’t get the pan out. I then unbolted tranny and tried to slide it back a bit still not enough. Completely unbolted tranny from engine and removed crossmember to angle tranny out of the way and lifted engine 5 whole inches up and had to pull pan down and remove 13mm single oil pump bolt otherwise it was stuck between oil pump and exhaust either way. finally removed the pan. Super headache get someone who know what they are doing and an engine hoist and remove tranny for this year and specs because there is no work around you will waste a lot of time and bang your head.
Wow this is good to know, thank you. I wondered if it would be any different on the 2WD and apparently it is… shame because our ‘98 is leaking badly :(
Doing this on my dad's 96 2wd and I'm to the point where pan is stuck between oil pump and transmission. Next step is to remove transmission to get it out followed this to a t and won't come out
GREAT video. I was working on this yesterday with my dad and we COULD NOT get the pan to drop. After stopping because we couldn't get it past the from dif. just about everything I read said to pull the motor. I didn't want to pull the motor because I don't have a motor puller or engine stand and I didn't want to buy one just for this. I was only planning on changing the rings and bearings. I am going to try this method and hopefully it works.
I only comment on videos that my customers say they used to do the repair themselves...1st. Having to do it twice is your first indication he prefers speed over correctness. 2nd..you can skip several steps and do it the right way. 3rd...sont ever jack up the engine on the bell housing, you can crack it or distort it. Always lift the engine from above by its lifting points. It move around much easier. Doing it this way gets rid of the very problem he ran in to with shield inside the pan. 4th...at the very end he said he has no knowledge of this repair before hand. He had to "work" it out. Anyway...use youtube at your own risk when it comes to repairs. This video just cost my customer twice as much ......
There is people with enough skills that only need a little info or guide to attempt doing the repair themselves and there is people that should never touch a car due to their lack of knowledge and skills your customer must be one of those
I tried this with out unbolting the trans to gain clearance of the front cross member. Interesting that freeing all 3 mounts will allow enough clearance. Does raising the whole engine and trans together stress out the exhaust flanges a bit, did you unbolt the exhaust at the back of the "Y" just forward of the first catalytic converter ? I did get the pan free from the aluminum plate between the bell housing and engine block, but it was a real PITA _ it wasn't meant to come apart this way.
HaggisCat1 i did exactly what the video shows to the T. one thing i forgot to mention is that if its a manual you want to remove the screws from around the plastic shifter bezel... if not, when you jack the trans up you will rip them out.
There's very little room to lift on the transmission. What jack did you use to lift? Because you say to pry the engine or transmission back to get the pan out... Isn't that dangerous since the jack might tip over while shifting the motor?
You are right, there is not a ton of room between the exhaust and the engine to get your jack on the transmission. I took a small block of wood I had and cut it to the perfect size and jacked up on that. Basically just a 4x4 thats like 4-6in long will do the trick. Just make sure there is at least a quarter inch of the bell housing exposed on the engine size so there is no chance the block of wood could block the oil pan from coming out
All I can say is thank you I watch this video now I definitely know I can do it I'm pretty skilled myself so everything you said made sense and I just got this Ranger for short money and that was one of the problems so now I almost look forward to getting it done thanks again great video!
I tried this on my 1998 ford ranger 3.0 2wd with an automatic transmission. I was not able to get it out. I even took off the intake manifold to get more clearance on top, and jacked it up until there was no more room for the engine to move.
DAM! GOOD VIDEO! without watching your video I almost got everything correct, accept i did not look at removing the crossmember bolts. Thank you. AT 1st glance the job looks easy UNTIL i started working on the project/ This job is probably comparable to R & R an oil pan from a1978 Mustang V8
My transmission was out so i just removed a lil bit both mount bolts and lifted up one side using a floor jack putting a piece of wood on one side then lifted the other side and bang the oil pan its all yours! But becareful you can get a finger stuck between the engine and a piece of steel if the jack or the piece of woods falls out.
This is for a 3.0 4x4 with manual transmission correct? I didnt see the black cross member piece under the transmission though? If this works I'm going to be so happy! Thanks already tho
Hey Bro how do I make sure my bottle jack doesn’t slip off the transmission when I shift the engine and transmission back enough to get the oil pan out in my 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 2wd? And if I succeed in doing this I would like to pay you for your instruction on how to do this my friend because you will have saved me a ton of money doing this myself and also I just don’t trust anyone else working on my truck because it’s almost impossible to find someone who does good work anymore even if you pay them for it! Awww man I wish you we here to help me with this my Brother!!! Gino in Chandler Arizona.
Getting ready to do this project on a 1994 ford ranger 3.0. You gave me hope, I did not want to pull the motor!! F-THAT!! I will let you know how it turns out! That's for the video
It may work on a manual trans, does not work on a 2007 2wd Auto. The pan will not clear the bell housing due to the oil pump. Had to disconnect the trans and it came out.
I finished replacing the oil pan gasket on my 3.0l 2wd. I removed the engine and I think that's the way to go for the 2wd. After the engine was out it was very convenient, being able to access all sides of the engine. reinstalling the motor wasn't as bad as I thought it was gonna be but, it did require a friend to help. Good luck everyone.
Well its been two weeks. My 1995 2wd twin I-beam. I read a Ford manual online sometime in middle of this. It states jack front engine 2.0 inches I believe. Then as pan drops down you can get access to remove oil pickup tube . Then turn pan backside to the right and remove. I removed a lot more and kept oil pick up installed. I wanted to replace exhaust, and clean transmission. I removed. I did reverse of manual. I jacked rear engine up. 22 inches from ground to tabs on bottom of block. The pan almost came out but I then did jack front of engine 2 inches to get Bolts on main bearing to clear so I can drop pan out. It was clear of flywheel and ready to just drop out before I had to jack front up as last step. I'll post when done. Or I'll try now with my removal pics.
What if you already have the transmission out. How can I jack it up. Went to replace clutch and rear seal and oil pan leaking bad. Thanks for the video subscribed.
@@joedirt3563 thank you. Ended up cleaning the pan really well and putting the gasket on like a sock over a foot worked great. Dropped old grommet in pan fished out with magnet. Flushed with oil and put in new oil.
so according to the deal, there are 2 different engine types that are 3.0 for my 98' Ranger. I've heard one of the can be done this way, the other cannot. He said my VIN was able but I'm getting ready to try.
My 2000 ford ranger is v6 manual 3,0 and 4x4. Oil has been sputtering around the pan, eventually dripping to the ground, a friend who gave it a look believes about half of the pan is producing the leak, most likely from the gasket. Do you believe this procedure may work, or from the given specs see a reason it would not? Thanks. *My friend did say the same, 600 800 dollar fix, requires dropping the motor out.
Great tutorial Bruce. Im gonna try this on my 99 4x4 soon, because I need to change the oil pump. Hopefully I can get at it easy. One question though, do you have the intake off? (looked like its not on there in your vid) Will it clear enough with it on?
Just did it in a ranger 3.0 94 2wd, just follow the steps he mention. Just be careful with the ignition cap I broke mine when lifted the engine, thank you!!
Dude awesome tutorial I've never changed a gasket for this model truck before thanks for the tool sizes so there's no headache of playing the guessing game. Very much appreciated.
i have a queation..very helpful video.. but I am having a problem with two of my oil pan bolts they are almost completely stripped. any recommendations please???
I'm doing this on a 93 ranger I did everything you said but I'm having trouble the trans and engine moved forward a inch and I need it to move back 2 inches to get the pan out and I can't get the engine or trans to move.. Any advice on how? Just a bigger ply bar?
Currently in the process of doing this job. 98 3.0 2wd and absolutely cannot get the pan out. Won't slide forward or backward. Looks like we will be pulling the trans next week. Really hoped this would work but it seems like this job has been cursed from the beginning.
Bruce Allen the pick up tube was stuck in the back corner of the pan. Even with the engine jacked up we still didn't have the room to get it out. Pulled the trans out and still couldn't get it out. Wound up just pulling the engine. Replaced the rear main and the oil pump just for the hell of.
drop starter, drop trans cross member, loosen 6 bolts around transmission do not take off 1/4 inch, take off oil pan bolts. don't let the pan hit you in the head.
Cherryl Connors you've got to pry a little bit. male 100% certain all bolts are out... if you pry on the pan a little bit you will be able to get it to pop from the trans inspection plate.
there are a couple of responses where people had to pry some. I'm pretty sure I had to as well bit honestly can't remember. if it was a huge issue I would have included it in the video. I believe silicone is used from the factory to that may keep it from dropping as well which may be the reason for prying. I do so many jobs everyday it's hard to remember exactly.
very nice video. got one question. do you thing the same steps will work in a 94 2wd. the previous owner lowered the stupid thing with dream beams and I'm not sure how thats going to effect things.
Michael barnes I've got no idea. I'm sorry. you can google and see if everything looks the same. I'm really sorry I couldn't help you. at the end of the day I hope this video ends up helping you.
thanks dude. I think your video is going to help me out greatly. plan on jumping on this this weekend. bad have to fix one vehicle to have the down time to fix my other one. lol
were you able to remove the pan? I have lifted the engine( removed distributor also to give more room) and cannot get the pan out. any help would be appreciated!
Travis Mattingly i forgot to add one very important step!!! please make sure to unbolt your shifter boot and plate on your stick shifter... if you dont, when you jack your trans up youll rip the screw right out and ruin the holes. that being said make sure everything around the shofter inside the cab is unscrewed. hope this video helps. this will litteraly cut the job down by 3/4 of the time. just be patient, take your time. oh also be sure that when you pull your pan out, that you dont bend the plate inside the pan... it may hang up a little when you goto pull it out ajd thats fine, but once you pull it out, inspect it and make sure the plate is flat and hasnt been picked up on. go get em tiger! you got this lol
I have a question how did u get the pan pulled out of the trans inspection plate, it seem to be holding the front lip of the pan in. It's 98 ford ranger 2wd 3.0
Josh Moffitt that sucks josh.. i actually did a 2wd 3 weeks ago and was able to get it out... it was a different process and a bigger bitch... probably would have been easier to just pull the engine... infact from now on im just pulling the engine from now on when it comes to the 2wd.. whem i made this video, i jad yet to perform this job on a 2wd and had assumed it would have been an easier task... i was wrong... this exact method is only for 4wd.
Josh Moffitt that sucks josh.. i actually did a 2wd 3 weeks ago and was able to get it out... it was a different process and a bigger bitch... probably would have been easier to just pull the engine... infact from now on im just pulling the engine from now on when it comes to the 2wd.. whem i made this video, i jad yet to perform this job on a 2wd and had assumed it would have been an easier task... i was wrong... this exact method is only for 4wd.
not working for me. I can't even get to the driver's side motor mount, because there's too much stuff around it. I would spend hours taking all that stuff out. But even if I could it doesn't look like raising the engine will free up the back flange on the oil pan.
Myra Gill did you do the job yet? if not i hope you see this because i forgot to ļ6 an important step, which is you need to make sure you unscrew all of the screws that hold your stick shif plastic bezel down. (the plastic molding around your stick shifter) if you fail to complete this step, when you goto jack the motor and trans up youre going to rip the screws right out 9f the bezel and body.
I just did a mazda b4000 series and was a pain al over i had to pull down the transmission was much easier thank puling the motor out,when istalling the torque converter make sure to push it all the way in will make a noise when you turn it but the nuts will pull it apart when tightning
This method worked well. But be warned. Do not forget to unbolt the fan shroud....when we jacked up the motor the fan was catching on the shroud and Not allowing the pan to separate from the motor and stressing the plastic fan. Make sure to check for those damn washers that fall loose if the Gasket....if you are replacing the Gasket due to bad leakage you can bet one or more fell into the pan..... If they didn't They certainly will when you remove the old Gasket. Make sure to remove them and all dirt possible. I did a quart oil " flush" for good measure after. Thanks for the video great help.
@@jamesconnor9142 unfortunately 5 years I can’t remember what we did with the oil pan. But I dumped a quart through the fill tube and just let it run through as a “flush”
I have a question about the part of the video that starts at 4:34. It says this can be done after removing the pan, but if u can remove the pan without messing with the front differential, why even mess with it, or mention this step? What am i missing here? I have a 98 ford ranger 3L 4x4 with a pan that need replacement. TY for the awesome video!!!!
I have a 4.0 V6 Ford Explorer and working on that thing is a bitch! Just to do a simple job of replacing a pulley tensioner you have to have a long Snap On 13mm ratcheting 0 degree wrench. That thing saved my life as well as my small hands! When your a mechanic small hands can get into anywhere you need them. HA HA!
Lucian Colombo it will work i promise you... one thing i forgot to add is that if its a manual transmission you need to remove the screws around the plastic bezel around the shifter... if not, when you jack the transmission up you will rip the screws out. dont be afraid to jack the trans up... it goes up quite a bit. good luck... im sure youll do just fine.
@@kiyosenl.3889 the UA-cam videos I have seen and based upon observation of my truck, I could just remove the oil pan fasteners and drop the oil pan. Straight forward.
@@shanec4441 My I-Beam is difficult. I drop passenger side , but now shallow part of pan not clear crossmember. Engine up about 3 inches and vacuum fitting on back of engine hitting firewall. Slide engine back though. Maybe slide forward for more height but less sacrifice distance from tranny to crossmember to angle pan out
Lucian Colombo the shroud does not have to come out. I've done 2 more since I posted this video... I'm 100% certain... sometimes you have to finagle things but I personally had no issues at all.
I maybe remove my intake vacuum fitting to get engine higher. Need inch more to clear the shroud you mention. Angled pan with all mounts off and transmission engine hitting top of tunnel and firewall. And removed passenger side I-Beam Raised maybe 3 inches. Resting on blocks of wood so neighbors dont see jack under truck and call code enforcement 1995 3.0 2WD Reg Cab
I appreciate your forwardness and info. Ford wants to charge me some ungodly amount to lift the motor and do this. Like you said, Fck that. If I can't do it, I have a mechanic friend who can & I'll pay him half of what it would cost me. We can use this a tutorial. Thx again!
Ozzy ô everything said 2wd was hard and if you have 4wd youre fucked.... well i beg to differ. i was NOT pulling the damn motor for an oil pan gasket on this thing. figured it couldnt hurt to try it my way and it worked. all data says its a 5.3 hour job.
Did u not see the pic of the front differential in the first few minutes of the video? He shouldn't have to mention it was 4x4, when he included the picture
If you are claiming you did this on 98-02 3.0 4x4 MT ranger, photos or you are a liar. This method will not give you room to remove the oil pan. The oil pump will prevent it. The only method that will allow you to remove the pan, clean it and install a new gasket is to pull out the engine. Do NOT listen to this video you will do nothing but waste time ane money.
Thank you so much for this. I watched this video probably 10 times or so before attempting the job on my 2000 Ford Ranger v6 3.0L 4WD Automatic. So it took me around 8 hours, but that was because I was being super cautious as to not break anything. Also my truck is super rusted so it took forever to get the engine mount nuts off. Had to use 2 extensions with a swivel and a breaker bar to get them loose as I do not have an impact gun. Lets just say my arms are sore. But yes this is the way to do it. I had to remove the oill pump bolt and removed the old oil pan with the oil pump as I could not get the pan off without doing that. I just reached my hand in there from the front of the engine and was barely able to reach it with a combo wrench. Luckily I was able to install the oil pump back first, and then finagle the new pan on. Currently I am waiting for the RTV to dry before re-filling with oil. Will update once I fill it to confirm no leaks
Nobody said nothing about the transmission bolts but you I believe I can get it done now thanks alot God bless America tonight bye
I just finished this project and for you to do it in 2 hours is really special, being as how I spent 2 hours beating my head against the wall for listening to you! What a PITA! Thanks for posting this video as it IS doable. I was dealing with a 2000 4x4 5spd (drivelines attached, wheels pulled but everything intact except (axlewise) for dropping the pass. side axle as instructed) and there was no moving the motor and trans. back another inch to clear. I ended up with my foot in the engine compartment, rocking the sob back and forth in frustration, which did the trick. That, and sticking a 11/16" wrench between the flywheel inspection cover and the back of the oilpan and clearancing just a tad by prying. Installed gasket on oilpan w/ black rtv in correct placement and popped that son of a gun back into place with the palm of my hand. Bolts lined up good and everything buttoned up real easy.
I'm pleased to say it did not kick my ass but it did put up one hell of a fight! Thanks again Bruce, for inspiring confidence and great instruction.
Doing my 2001 3.0 V6 ranger. Jacking up the engine alone wasnt enough to remove my oil pan. We used a dremel and cut the flexplate THEN jacked up the motor and barely got the oil pan out. If you're doing top and bottom end work, strongly consider pulling the motor out
I just did this job on a 2WD, and found it extremely easy. Didn't need to jack the engine or trans up, simply after prying the pan from the plate between trans and block it fell down and I took it out.
Customers truck I'm working on it a 2001 2WD, but it is the Edge model. And it has torsion bars. So maybe that makes a difference?
Thanks for the vid!
Yo man getting ready to tackle my two-wheel drive Ranger did you have trouble getting the oil pan away from the oil pump
@@michaelvitale5592how was the work on this getting ready to do this now
Yes you helped.
I just did this on my 98 Ranger 4x4 3.0 Auto, It was not fun! took about 4 hours cause im 50 and I did it in a gravel driveway.. Slightly bent baffle up on removal, so i made the shim plate between motor and tranny removeable so much easier on the reinstall. Old style oil pans dont have the big baffle in them cause they are not absolutely needed for a grocery getter. I thought about removing the oil pump, but noticed i could get it if i pryed down on the differential housing for the last 1/4 inch clearance needed. Also I used 4 ton lowboy shop jack. I took pics since a lot of guys dont believe it can be done.🛻
Great video demonstration! Just performed a timing chain housing gasket which was the source of the leaking water(previous thought to be a year and half old water pump). This was all performed on a 1999 ford ranger 3.0L 2wd that took about 16 hours (with a couple of beer brakes) over the course of 2 days. We were forced to raise the motor about 4 inches to attempt to remove the oil pan which did not end up working. Even after we cut the inspection plate we where not able to remove the oil pan. After messing around with undoing the oil pump, we eventually got the oil pump installed (was removed for pretty much no reason) with two people and finagled the new oil pan gasket around the oil pump. Once completed we finished cleaning the surfaces of the housing applied a thin coating of RTV gasket. Once installed moved on to the water pump which was thought to be the cause of this whole project (we where in for a surprise) a new water pump was installed (old one was warranted so why not) as well as anti-seize copper coated gasket to help seal the bond between the water pump and timing chain housing. All thats left to do tomorrow is fill with 5 quarts of oil and dump some coolant in . Thanks again for the ideas time to crack a cold one!
Following these simple steps worked perfectly !! Thank you man ! I appreciate you taking your time to make this video. Your awesome. Hope all is good for you!
Just curious, works for you on your Ranger… Was it a 2-wheel drive or a 4--wheel-drive??
Hi I have a 2wd 2004 ford ranger with coil spring suspension and did this job and had to unbolt transmission. I originally cut the shield he’s referring to in video no space at all to remove oil pan. Then I removed engine mount bolts and lifted engine by transmission bell housing(also removed the crossmember bolts on the tail of tranny) 3 whole inches and still couldn’t get the pan out. I then unbolted tranny and tried to slide it back a bit still not enough. Completely unbolted tranny from engine and removed crossmember to angle tranny out of the way and lifted engine 5 whole inches up and had to pull pan down and remove 13mm single oil pump bolt otherwise it was stuck between oil pump and exhaust either way. finally removed the pan. Super headache get someone who know what they are doing and an engine hoist and remove tranny for this year and specs because there is no work around you will waste a lot of time and bang your head.
Wow this is good to know, thank you. I wondered if it would be any different on the 2WD and apparently it is… shame because our ‘98 is leaking badly :(
Doing this on my dad's 96 2wd and I'm to the point where pan is stuck between oil pump and transmission. Next step is to remove transmission to get it out followed this to a t and won't come out
OMG i was just about to pull the engine, thank you! What a life saver!!!!
We got lucky doing ours. Was doing the timing cover. Wife's small hands was able to snake the gasket down below the oil pickup and into place.
Wife's small hands??? You got your wife to help??? Does she have a sister???
My 99 Mazda B3000 in in the beginning stages of oil pan and gasket replacement, I will be using your tutorial today to make it happen!!!
GREAT video. I was working on this yesterday with my dad and we COULD NOT get the pan to drop. After stopping because we couldn't get it past the from dif. just about everything I read said to pull the motor. I didn't want to pull the motor because I don't have a motor puller or engine stand and I didn't want to buy one just for this. I was only planning on changing the rings and bearings. I am going to try this method and hopefully it works.
How did it go
I wish you could record repairs at work, but that was excellent. Very clear and easy to follow. Great job!
I only comment on videos that my customers say they used to do the repair themselves...1st. Having to do it twice is your first indication he prefers speed over correctness. 2nd..you can skip several steps and do it the right way. 3rd...sont ever jack up the engine on the bell housing, you can crack it or distort it. Always lift the engine from above by its lifting points. It move around much easier. Doing it this way gets rid of the very problem he ran in to with shield inside the pan. 4th...at the very end he said he has no knowledge of this repair before hand. He had to "work" it out. Anyway...use youtube at your own risk when it comes to repairs. This video just cost my customer twice as much ......
I agree. Also it seems like removing the front differential is actually alot more work!! I would think it's easier to hoist the engine up.
There is people with enough skills that only need a little info or guide to attempt doing the repair themselves and there is people that should never touch a car due to their lack of knowledge and skills your customer must be one of those
Worked perfect for me. Nice video brother, thanks for posting!
I tried this with out unbolting the trans to gain clearance of the front cross member. Interesting that freeing all 3 mounts will allow enough clearance. Does raising the whole engine and trans together stress out the exhaust flanges a bit, did you unbolt the exhaust at the back of the "Y" just forward of the first catalytic converter ? I did get the pan free from the aluminum plate between the bell housing and engine block, but it was a real PITA _ it wasn't meant to come apart this way.
HaggisCat1 i did exactly what the video shows to the T. one thing i forgot to mention is that if its a manual you want to remove the screws from around the plastic shifter bezel... if not, when you jack the trans up you will rip them out.
Thanks Bruce.
I just pulled the 3.0 out of my 00' Ranger 4x4 and I have to say it wasn't too difficult.
There's very little room to lift on the transmission. What jack did you use to lift? Because you say to pry the engine or transmission back to get the pan out... Isn't that dangerous since the jack might tip over while shifting the motor?
You are right, there is not a ton of room between the exhaust and the engine to get your jack on the transmission. I took a small block of wood I had and cut it to the perfect size and jacked up on that. Basically just a 4x4 thats like 4-6in long will do the trick. Just make sure there is at least a quarter inch of the bell housing exposed on the engine size so there is no chance the block of wood could block the oil pan from coming out
All I can say is thank you I watch this video now I definitely know I can do it I'm pretty skilled myself so everything you said made sense and I just got this Ranger for short money and that was one of the problems so now I almost look forward to getting it done thanks again great video!
And also I’ve redone everything else on my truck so it’s like new but this is by far the most difficult job I’ve had to do Bro!!!
I tried this on my 1998 ford ranger 3.0 2wd with an automatic transmission. I was not able to get it out. I even took off the intake manifold to get more clearance on top, and jacked it up until there was no more room for the engine to move.
I did it on on manual... not sure why there would be a difference...did you drop the diff bolts and pry down?
Yea my 1995 is stuck.
Manifold hitting. Then transmission hits when jack it up
Automatic 1995 I-Beam Reg Cab 3.0
Worked like a charm! Waaaay better than the torture AllData suggested. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
DAM! GOOD VIDEO! without watching your video I almost got everything correct, accept i did not look at removing the crossmember bolts. Thank you. AT 1st glance the job looks easy UNTIL i started working on the project/ This job is probably comparable to R & R an oil pan from a1978 Mustang V8
My transmission was out so i just removed a lil bit both mount bolts and lifted up one side using a floor jack putting a piece of wood on one side then lifted the other side and bang the oil pan its all yours! But becareful you can get a finger stuck between the engine and a piece of steel if the jack or the piece of woods falls out.
This is for a 3.0 4x4 with manual transmission correct? I didnt see the black cross member piece under the transmission though? If this works I'm going to be so happy! Thanks already tho
Hey Bro how do I make sure my bottle jack doesn’t slip off the transmission when I shift the engine and transmission back enough to get the oil pan out in my 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 2wd? And if I succeed in doing this I would like to pay you for your instruction on how to do this my friend because you will have saved me a ton of money doing this myself and also I just don’t trust anyone else working on my truck because it’s almost impossible to find someone who does good work anymore even if you pay them for it! Awww man I wish you we here to help me with this my Brother!!! Gino in Chandler Arizona.
Getting ready to do this project on a 1994 ford ranger 3.0. You gave me hope, I did not want to pull the motor!! F-THAT!! I will let you know how it turns out! That's for the video
howd it turn out? amy tips?
How did it go?
Any follow up?
It may work on a manual trans, does not work on a 2007 2wd Auto. The pan will not clear the bell housing due to the oil pump. Had to disconnect the trans and it came out.
How similar is this process to the late 80's Ranger 2.9 motor?
Thnx bro. Everybdy was telling me pull the engine as well. Thnx!! How can I send u money? Not much but just to say thnx.
I finished replacing the oil pan gasket on my 3.0l 2wd. I removed the engine and I think that's the way to go for the 2wd. After the engine was out it was very convenient, being able to access all sides of the engine. reinstalling the motor wasn't as bad as I thought it was gonna be but, it did require a friend to help. Good luck everyone.
Well its been two weeks.
My 1995 2wd twin I-beam.
I read a Ford manual online sometime in middle of this. It states jack front engine 2.0 inches I believe. Then as pan drops down you can get access to remove oil pickup tube .
Then turn pan backside to the right and remove.
I removed a lot more and kept oil pick up installed.
I wanted to replace exhaust, and clean transmission. I removed.
I did reverse of manual. I jacked rear engine up. 22 inches from ground to tabs on bottom of block.
The pan almost came out but I then did jack front of engine 2 inches to get Bolts on main bearing to clear so I can drop pan out.
It was clear of flywheel and ready to just drop out before I had to jack front up as last step.
I'll post when done. Or I'll try now with my removal pics.
What if you already have the transmission out. How can I jack it up. Went to replace clutch and rear seal and oil pan leaking bad. Thanks for the video subscribed.
The upper intake manifold must be removed to get access to the hoist lift points. While your at it replace the valve cover gaskets as well.
@@joedirt3563 thank you. Ended up cleaning the pan really well and putting the gasket on like a sock over a foot worked great. Dropped old grommet in pan fished out with magnet. Flushed with oil and put in new oil.
I have not yet done this, but I appreciate your willingness to help out some fellow people here
so according to the deal, there are 2 different engine types that are 3.0 for my 98' Ranger. I've heard one of the can be done this way, the other cannot. He said my VIN was able but I'm getting ready to try.
My 2000 ford ranger is v6 manual 3,0 and 4x4. Oil has been sputtering around the pan, eventually dripping to the ground, a friend who gave it a look believes about half of the pan is producing the leak, most likely from the gasket. Do you believe this procedure may work, or from the given specs see a reason it would not? Thanks.
*My friend did say the same, 600 800 dollar fix, requires dropping the motor out.
My friend's 2wd ranger is leaking. I was just seeing what steps would be involved. Thank you.
Great tutorial Bruce. Im gonna try this on my 99 4x4 soon, because I need to change the oil pump.
Hopefully I can get at it easy.
One question though, do you have the intake off? (looked like its not on there in your vid) Will it clear enough with it on?
Engine doesn't require intake removal. If you want more engine height; remove hood. Not intake manifold. Just a suggestion ☺️.
@@jamesbillet8954
Cant you open hood and it will be out of the way?
Gonna try this soon. Oil pan gasket is leaking badly. Fixing all oil leaks before I give it to my kiddo. Thanks.
good video man. props to you.
That sure helps, thanks a bunch. My temporary fix was a little bit quicker for rusted through oil pan that blew in a remote location. JB Weld.
Just did it in a ranger 3.0 94 2wd, just follow the steps he mention. Just be careful with the ignition cap I broke mine when lifted the engine, thank you!!
Because the guy in the video is a shade tree parts changer....
will be doing this this weekend 99 ranger 2wd 3.0 i will let ya know how it goes!!
thanks!!!!
ray smith did you do this the same way?
ray smith let me know thinking about doing this asap
How did it go?
Great info, it worked prefect just as you said! Thank you so much for sharing knowledge!
Silicone is needed at the front and rear oil pan seals in the area where the seal is oval to flat of front and rear oil pan seals.
Dude awesome tutorial I've never changed a gasket for this model truck before thanks for the tool sizes so there's no headache of playing the guessing game. Very much appreciated.
i have a queation..very helpful video.. but I am having a problem with two of my oil pan bolts they are almost completely stripped. any recommendations please???
William Cohill use turbo sockets google them
I believe the silicone is needed for where the timing chain cover meets the engine block.
I will have to give this a try if I ever need to change the pan gasket on my '99 3.0 2wd.
Does this work with the 99 ford ranger 3.0 automatic 2wd ford ranger i gotta replace the oil pan on it cause of the pan rusting out?
Bruce. Thanks for the hack. I have 3.0 with 2 wheel drive 1996. What's different in rrem9ving pan on that one
I'm doing this on a 93 ranger I did everything you said but I'm having trouble the trans and engine moved forward a inch and I need it to move back 2 inches to get the pan out and I can't get the engine or trans to move.. Any advice on how? Just a bigger ply bar?
Oh I just reading all comments. I hope you got engine moved
@@jamesconnor9142 I ended up taking the transmission completely out to get the pan off lol
why is the pan hooked in the back of the transmission still? I've removed all that stuff and it's like the back of the pan is hooked.
Plate
Currently in the process of doing this job. 98 3.0 2wd and absolutely cannot get the pan out. Won't slide forward or backward. Looks like we will be pulling the trans next week. Really hoped this would work but it seems like this job has been cursed from the beginning.
Bama Speed fords can be a nightmare. not sure why this isn't working for you. I did my best to explain it without a video.
Bruce Allen the pick up tube was stuck in the back corner of the pan. Even with the engine jacked up we still didn't have the room to get it out. Pulled the trans out and still couldn't get it out. Wound up just pulling the engine. Replaced the rear main and the oil pump just for the hell of.
drop starter, drop trans cross member, loosen 6 bolts around transmission do not take off 1/4 inch, take off oil pan bolts. don't let the pan hit you in the head.
I'm having same problem as Josh Moffitt with same model only 4WD. Was there a solution to getting oil pan unstuck from the tran plate?
Cherryl Connors you've got to pry a little bit. male 100% certain all bolts are out... if you pry on the pan a little bit you will be able to get it to pop from the trans inspection plate.
there are a couple of responses where people had to pry some. I'm pretty sure I had to as well bit honestly can't remember. if it was a huge issue I would have included it in the video. I believe silicone is used from the factory to that may keep it from dropping as well which may be the reason for prying. I do so many jobs everyday it's hard to remember exactly.
Kinda works you need to remove the oil pump too on a 98 ranger but it's in such a bad angle its impossible so sorry it's bs 😐 😕
very nice video. got one question. do you thing the same steps will work in a 94 2wd. the previous owner lowered the stupid thing with dream beams and I'm not sure how thats going to effect things.
Michael barnes I've got no idea. I'm sorry. you can google and see if everything looks the same. I'm really sorry I couldn't help you. at the end of the day I hope this video ends up helping you.
thanks dude. I think your video is going to help me out greatly. plan on jumping on this this weekend. bad have to fix one vehicle to have the down time to fix my other one. lol
were you able to remove the pan? I have lifted the engine( removed distributor also to give more room) and cannot get the pan out. any help would be appreciated!
94 ranger 3.0
@@Vic1tmms
I hope you got changed. Reading comments on oil pan replace. 1994 3.0.
Thank you. I will be doing this very job on Friday.
Travis Mattingly i forgot to add one very important step!!! please make sure to unbolt your shifter boot and plate on your stick shifter... if you dont, when you jack your trans up youll rip the screw right out and ruin the holes. that being said make sure everything around the shofter inside the cab is unscrewed. hope this video helps. this will litteraly cut the job down by 3/4 of the time. just be patient, take your time. oh also be sure that when you pull your pan out, that you dont bend the plate inside the pan... it may hang up a little when you goto pull it out ajd thats fine, but once you pull it out, inspect it and make sure the plate is flat and hasnt been picked up on. go get em tiger! you got this lol
Bruce Allen Do you have to remove all the transmission bolts from the housing?
Thank you for sharing 😊😊😊. Have a great day...
2004 ranger 3.0 xlt this is not possible. you will not have enough clearance.
I have a question how did u get the pan pulled out of the trans inspection plate, it seem to be holding the front lip of the pan in. It's 98 ford ranger 2wd 3.0
Josh Moffitt after you remove the bolts you just have to pry a little bit.
Bruce Allen
Had to remove engine. Had engine and transmission jacked all the way up (hitting body)still couldn't get out oil pan. It was 2wd.
Josh Moffitt that sucks josh.. i actually did a 2wd 3 weeks ago and was able to get it out... it was a different process and a bigger bitch... probably would have been easier to just pull the engine... infact from now on im just pulling the engine from now on when it comes to the 2wd.. whem i made this video, i jad yet to perform this job on a 2wd and had assumed it would have been an easier task... i was wrong... this exact method is only for 4wd.
Josh Moffitt that sucks josh.. i actually did a 2wd 3 weeks ago and was able to get it out... it was a different process and a bigger bitch... probably would have been easier to just pull the engine... infact from now on im just pulling the engine from now on when it comes to the 2wd.. whem i made this video, i jad yet to perform this job on a 2wd and had assumed it would have been an easier task... i was wrong... this exact method is only for 4wd.
@@BruceAllentools please add this comment in the description
It was good harder to do it when not videoed isn't it you r the man.
Did anybody have a problem getting the pan off the oil pump
Thats where im stuck idk how tffff
This works for 4x4 models ?
not working for me. I can't even get to the driver's side motor mount, because there's too much stuff around it. I would spend hours taking all that stuff out. But even if I could it doesn't look like raising the engine will free up the back flange on the oil pan.
94 2WD man 3.0. Can probably get more clearance to jack it up since the manual tranny is smaller?
So we have to loosen the transmission?
Good job! Appreciate the help.
Thank you for your video. It gave me some much needed info.
Myra Gill did you do the job yet? if not i hope you see this because i forgot to ļ6 an important step, which is you need to make sure you unscrew all of the screws that hold your stick shif plastic bezel down. (the plastic molding around your stick shifter) if you fail to complete this step, when you goto jack the motor and trans up youre going to rip the screws right out 9f the bezel and body.
Bruce Allen Not yet. But thank you for letting me know.
Will this work on 2 wheel drive ranger
How do you remove the wire on the oil pan?It's on the drivers side of the oil pan.
you are the fucking MAAAN i dont't even have a 3.0 i have a 2.3 but it still worked!!
Is this the same procedure for a 4.0 Ford Explorer?
I just did a mazda b4000 series and was a pain al over i had to pull down the transmission was much easier thank puling the motor out,when istalling the torque converter make sure to push it all the way in will make a noise when you turn it but the nuts will pull it apart when tightning
This method worked well.
But be warned.
Do not forget to unbolt the fan shroud....when we jacked up the motor the fan was catching on the shroud and Not allowing the pan to separate from the motor and stressing the plastic fan.
Make sure to check for those damn washers that fall loose if the Gasket....if you are replacing the Gasket due to bad leakage you can bet one or more fell into the pan.....
If they didn't
They certainly will when you remove the old Gasket.
Make sure to remove them and all dirt possible.
I did a quart oil " flush" for good measure after.
Thanks for the video great help.
If still here. What flush you mean? And Did you slide pan gasket on with pan resting on crossmember?
@@jamesconnor9142 unfortunately 5 years I can’t remember what we did with the oil pan.
But I dumped a quart through the fill tube and just let it run through as a “flush”
I have a question about the part of the video that starts at 4:34. It says this can be done after removing the pan, but if u can remove the pan without messing with the front differential, why even mess with it, or mention this step? What am i missing here? I have a 98 ford ranger 3L 4x4 with a pan that need replacement. TY for the awesome video!!!!
How can I replace a head gasket on a 1992 Ford Ranger Xlt 3.0L V6 2wd manual. Haven't really worked on cars at this depth before.
I have a 4.0 V6 Ford Explorer and working on that thing is a bitch! Just to do a simple job of replacing a pulley tensioner you have to have a long Snap On 13mm ratcheting 0 degree wrench. That thing saved my life as well as my small hands! When your a mechanic small hands can get into anywhere you need them. HA HA!
MoneyMarcMes small hands also make your junk look bigger!
Bruce Allen Hey you know what your right! Thank You! Keep the videos coming man and thanks for keeping it real.
If i have a 2wd im screwed??
If this works it will be an awesome help!!!! I will let you know if it does. Thx
Lucian Colombo it will work i promise you... one thing i forgot to add is that if its a manual transmission you need to remove the screws around the plastic bezel around the shifter... if not, when you jack the transmission up you will rip the screws out. dont be afraid to jack the trans up... it goes up quite a bit. good luck... im sure youll do just fine.
Will this work on a 4.0 Ranger?
Thanks for the video too.
Will this work on a 4.0
Unless your like me doing it laying in a muddy yard out in 97 degrees 😂
If you have a 2wd without front coil springs, you don’t need to follow these steps. The 2wd has torsion bars, not coil springs
So what makes a 2wd torsion bar system different for removing the oil pan?
@@kiyosenl.3889 the UA-cam videos I have seen and based upon observation of my truck, I could just remove the oil pan fasteners and drop the oil pan. Straight forward.
@@shanec4441
My I-Beam is difficult. I drop passenger side , but now shallow part of pan not clear crossmember. Engine up about 3 inches and vacuum fitting on back of engine hitting firewall.
Slide engine back though. Maybe slide forward for more height but less sacrifice distance from tranny to crossmember to angle pan out
If this doesn't work I swear to God my guy
He’s right I got it out following he’s steps
You do have to cut the shim off .
What shim?
dude! I :) Midgets!!! Cheers!
this is good information thanks
Gary Clemons not a problem!
i saw that the ft lbs on pan bolts were 18 ft lbs and the the trans bolts were 30lbs
for a 99 ford ranger 3.0 2wd
the damn starter shroud won't come out for nothing. not possible without that shroud coming off. What a nightmare
Lucian Colombo the shroud does not have to come out. I've done 2 more since I posted this video... I'm 100% certain... sometimes you have to finagle things but I personally had no issues at all.
I maybe remove my intake vacuum fitting to get engine higher. Need inch more to clear the shroud you mention.
Angled pan with all mounts off and transmission engine hitting top of tunnel and firewall. And removed passenger side I-Beam
Raised maybe 3 inches. Resting on blocks of wood so neighbors dont see jack under truck and call code enforcement
1995 3.0 2WD Reg Cab
Nice tutorial type video.
god enough for me!!!!
ALLDATA says this is a 5.3 hour job. lol not anymore!!!
Chilton said close to 6 hours
I appreciate your forwardness and info. Ford wants to charge me some ungodly amount to lift the motor and do this. Like you said, Fck that. If I can't do it, I have a mechanic friend who can & I'll pay him half of what it would cost me. We can use this a tutorial. Thx again!
should be even easier on a 2wd?
Ozzy ô honestly i think it would be the same
Ozzy ô everything said 2wd was hard and if you have 4wd youre fucked.... well i beg to differ. i was NOT pulling the damn motor for an oil pan gasket on this thing. figured it couldnt hurt to try it my way and it worked. all data says its a 5.3 hour job.
Be nice if you said 4wd in the description
Did u not see the pic of the front differential in the first few minutes of the video? He shouldn't have to mention it was 4x4, when he included the picture
The only, only reason to pull an engine it should be for MAJOR engine work. Why the hell did Ford do this 😡?
This didnt work
DOES NOT WORK. I EVEN CUT THE SHIM OUT AND LOOSENED THE TRANS TO MOVE IT BACK A LITTLE MORE. WILL NOT COME OUT.
99 3.0 2WD AT
I did the same with my 01 3.0 2wd and had to finally take the trans out to remove the pan, that was with the motor all the way up
This video is for 4wd, he included the picture of the front differential
@@christibbs6666 would be easier with a 2wd. Still didn't work.
If you are claiming you did this on 98-02 3.0 4x4 MT ranger, photos or you are a liar. This method will not give you room to remove the oil pan. The oil pump will prevent it. The only method that will allow you to remove the pan, clean it and install a new gasket is to pull out the engine. Do NOT listen to this video you will do nothing but waste time ane money.