I am surprised you were able to get this whole job done without removing the rotor and caliper. You're the only one on YT who I have seen do it this way!
Thank you so much for sharing this was a perfect vod, in quality, and explanation. i seen this done with out the spring compressor but i think its a much larger fight with out it.
I am replacing my control arms right now. I wish I had that spring compressor, mine I don't have much trust in... When I removed my shocks I used an impact on both top nuts and they both came right off as the shocks were not that old and no rust at all.... One came off and in fine order. The other though, well I had thought something wrong with it for some time. with bad ball joints and bushings my truck had a bad vibration at times when braking, almost like a warped rotor but could not feel it the pedal. So I assume it was all the slop. But its also was coming from the side with the bad shock, which was bad because it was not secured inside of it. The rod at some point had unthreaded from what ever its screwed onto at the bottom of the rod inside the shock. this resulted in no real dampening or pressure inside the shock and not only does the rod go all the way in with no effort but it also pulls all the way out of the shock body also, at which point oil spills out if not holding it upright... There was not signs of any leakage or anything prior to removal. I kind of think defective or that it detached on install or from all that shaking when braking over last couple years... Like that shock tool.
At 18:30 into video you can see where an upper control arm bolts onto the frame... And you can clearly see also that one of the pair of bolt holes has knock out tabs in it and the other does not... Why ? Should the knock out tabs be removed when ever a front end is rebuilt to allow for adjusted/allignment or?
exactly how many inches were you able to compress the spring with that tool ? tool i am using uses a fork at the bottom and can only compress the spring one and a half inches which isn't enought to get spring back in.
Great video and really helpful . Did u torque the bolts while it's on the lift ? I think that bushings should be torqued after full car waight on the ground im i right ?
How tight are u supposed to tight the ball joint nuts? Is it supposed to be the nut width and insert the pin trough the nut and bolt or can the nut go way down past the pin insert and just have the pin trough the bolt ? How tight does it have to be?
I wouldn’t put that pot metal aftermarket garbage on my truck. Just to save the time of cleaning your arms, and replacing ball joints and bushings with GM Parts. There’s a reason the OEM parts last 100,000 miles ! Ever think about that ? It’s just laziness. The best control arms available were installed on your vehicle at the factory, and you just threw them in the garbage ! 😂
Even those parts are not the same as the originals were. The ones you buy now for replacement are new and just gm approved which is not the same as original parts.
I am surprised you were able to get this whole job done without removing the rotor and caliper. You're the only one on YT who I have seen do it this way!
Just disconnect the tie rod and you can spin the whole assembly out of the way.
It's not hard to do it this way when you have a rack to put the vehicle on and raise it in the air high enough to work on it properly.
Thank you so much for sharing this was a perfect vod, in quality, and explanation. i seen this done with out the spring compressor but i think its a much larger fight with out it.
Very precise and informative.Good video,learned from your instructions!
really great video, so informative! nicely done thank you.
Man thanks a lot couldn’t do it with out this video 👌🏿
Great video! Thanks!
I am replacing my control arms right now. I wish I had that spring compressor, mine I don't have much trust in... When I removed my shocks I used an impact on both top nuts and they both came right off as the shocks were not that old and no rust at all.... One came off and in fine order. The other though, well I had thought something wrong with it for some time. with bad ball joints and bushings my truck had a bad vibration at times when braking, almost like a warped rotor but could not feel it the pedal. So I assume it was all the slop. But its also was coming from the side with the bad shock, which was bad because it was not secured inside of it. The rod at some point had unthreaded from what ever its screwed onto at the bottom of the rod inside the shock. this resulted in no real dampening or pressure inside the shock and not only does the rod go all the way in with no effort but it also pulls all the way out of the shock body also, at which point oil spills out if not holding it upright... There was not signs of any leakage or anything prior to removal. I kind of think defective or that it detached on install or from all that shaking when braking over last couple years... Like that shock tool.
At 18:30 into video you can see where an upper control arm bolts onto the frame... And you can clearly see also that one of the pair of bolt holes has knock out tabs in it and the other does not... Why ? Should the knock out tabs be removed when ever a front end is rebuilt to allow for adjusted/allignment or?
Yeah you get a knockout tool and punch it out. Then buy adjustable camber bolts and you can now adjust your camber.
Gracias
I bet it rode like a dream
Damn this is RWD no one has a video for 4WD
-teacher a question is the same procedure for the 2000 chevy astro ???
I have been trying to get that lower ball joint to come lose from the steering knuckle every way i can think of and it just won't come out.
exactly how many inches were you able to compress the spring with that tool ? tool i am using uses a fork at the bottom and can only compress the spring one and a half inches which isn't enought to get spring back in.
Great video and really helpful . Did u torque the bolts while it's on the lift ? I think that bushings should be torqued after full car waight on the ground im i right ?
Yes, although personally I’m having trouble getting a roque wrench in there to do it
Good stuff 👏
Are the upper control arm spring loaded? Because I seen before when u disconnect the ball joint the arm flips up
where did you get the lower control arms? i have a 1994 K1500 4wd that i would like to replace
Are the lower control arms the same on 1994 c2500 7.4 engine and c1500?
Nothing like trading Strong tensile OEM metal control arms ........for junk Aftermarket parts that will last 20k miles if your lucky
Must not have had to change the ball joints a few times and wore out the lower bore fit. Precision makes control arms from re-pressed oem arms.
Can you send a link for that spring compressor tool?
my control arms were so bad they just fell out
How tight are u supposed to tight the ball joint nuts? Is it supposed to be the nut width and insert the pin trough the nut and bolt or can the nut go way down past the pin insert and just have the pin trough the bolt ? How tight does it have to be?
I wouldn’t put that pot metal aftermarket garbage on my truck. Just to save the time of cleaning your arms, and replacing ball joints and bushings with GM Parts. There’s a reason the OEM parts last 100,000 miles ! Ever think about that ?
It’s just laziness. The best control arms available were installed on your vehicle at the factory, and you just threw them in the garbage ! 😂
Even those parts are not the same as the originals were. The ones you buy now for replacement are new and just gm approved which is not the same as original parts.