I followed your suggestion of replacing the resistor with the part number you provided. The blower then worked fine for 10 minutes and then stopped working. After waiting about 10 minutes the blower again worked...for about 10 minutes. It seemed to me that the resistor worked well until it got too hot (no huge heat sink as with the original) so on a hunch I gutted the electronics out of the original part, filled the void with silver solder, filed the surface flat and mounted the new resistor onto the modified heat sink. Problem solved!
Those interior air filters are often neglected - by the dealers! The crap I found in my Chevy/ Deawoo.... horrible. It's the car dealers that made me start doing my own maintenance and repair work.
The w210 chassies ran from 1996 until 2002 in sedan form with the wagon being carried over into 2003. The m104 inline 6 and tge 4.2 v8 where 96 and 97 model year engines, with the modular v6/v8 coming for the 98 model year. The e300 diesel was available until 1999 and tgen not again until the 211 chassies
My car is a 210 chassis 2000 Mercedes E430 4Matic. I have replaced the regulator three times,cabin air filters, the cabin fan and the panel control trying to solve this issue. I've been troubleshooting it myself with my boyfriend (who has skills) for well over a year. I purchased the car out-of-state and did pay for a third party inspection but received it in this condition. The battery was dead so we replaced it. The next day, the new battery was dead so we charged it. Each day the new battery would be dead so we replaced the battery again only to have it continue to occur. Initially the cabin fan would continue to click on every few seconds until the battery drained even with the car off and key removed. Eventually we traced the cause of the sound and disconnected the wire to the heating control values to stop the battery drain until we had time to address the issue (we were in the middle of moving). The local foreign car mechanic had the car four months and could not solve the issue (actually denied a battery drain). The climate panel control was replaced because missing pixels prevented reading error codes. The new control panel didn't provide anything useful for codes to troubleshoot the cabin fan issue. At this point we already figured out that the regulator needed replacing. The HVAC has not worked since I got the vehicle. The freon level checked out fine. The first time the regulator was replaced, we followed this video and upgraded to the SClass regulator. The cabin fan and climate control operated normal the first time initiated. When turned on a second time, it blew on high until the regulator heats up and continues to blow high even with the key removed until the battery is drained. We tried replacing the regulator again with one for the EClass. Same thing. Then replaced the cabin fan and tried again. Same result. In the meanwhile the car wasn't starting in cool weather so I purchased yet another battery but this time got a heavier duty one and so far so go in cold weather. Then we purchased a third regulator and tried a different process thinking our process was wrong and may be at fault so we tried disconnecting the battery, replacing the regulator, reconnecting battery, erasing the codes from the control panel then turned on the heat but to no avail as we have the same end result. We have not yet replaced the heating control values. No coolant is leaking. Please help! Thanks!
Shelley, I realize your posted comment is 4 years old, but if other are reading, I respond: "What we're your trouble codes ? And did you research them thoroughly & investigate all of them ?" I'd suspect you have a bad "body computer" that got liquid, rain or just broken internal circuit board fault that is causing all those disparate conditions. In similar vein, on w210 models the Transmission Control module, mounted in sealed box near firewall, can suffer ATF oil invasion by a bad leaking transmission electrical plug (infamous 13 pin connector), that allows ATF to wick up the wire harness & soak the module. Sounds crazy but also a sunroof drain clog can corrode body computer, similarly. Doing a deep dive searching web by describing your problem can identify obscure solutions.
so, it means that the climate control unit is compatible and recognizes new blower resistor from different model (in this case case S class) // is it possible then to plug in this particular resistor to another version of the automatic climate control unit, like the one that is in C-class (it differs from this E-class control unit in that it doesn't allow dual (driver & passenger) temperature adjustment. However, the blower speed levels and their graphical indication on the control screen are absolutely the same.
and I believe that the S-class for which this replacement resistor is designed also has the same climate control module as the E-class in the video (with L&R temperature control buttons)
I got a new resistor and put it on. I put some heatsink paste on it before I attached it to blower motor. It is now only blows on high now. If I remove resistor and let it dangle by the wires the fan speeds work correctly. Are you familiar with this issue?
Something's wrong! I replaced the regulator as per this video and now the fan won't shut off, at all, ever. Had to disco the battery. Someone online said the dealer has to reprogram something. What's up?
Shelley Phillips: I re-reviewed the boards and they say you have to replace with the re-engineered blower, spiky regulator and cover. I bought them from autohausaz, about $300, installed and its working again. I would replace all four cabin filters too, to keep the blower from overloading.
Thanks Eric ... I'm going to give this a try ... I've been shopping for the parts ... We removed the regulator in the meanwhile thinking it would stop the drain on the battery but we were wrong, something is still clicking on and off in the cabin even when the key it out of the ignition and it keeps repeating until the battery is dead
Eric, it's 7 months later and still struggling with this issue. Initially we went through two batteries before realizing the drain was with the climate control based off clicking noising coming from the cabin and not faulty batteries and the fact that my cabin blower fan did not work at all (although the refrigerant level for the ac was fine). We replaced the regulator in the cabin fan and the cabin filters. The fan would then stay on even with the car shut off with the key out until the battery was drained. The fan controls were not working so we replaced the hvac control unit with a used one as the original also had missing pixels so we couldn't read the screen. Thinking it might be a faulty new regulator, we purchased another and experienced the same result with the fan running on high until the battery is drained. Then I purchased the whole new blower motor with cage and still am experiencing the same issue with the fan running on high until it drains the battery. We reset the AC errors (two showed up suggesting low refrigerant) and also reset the EC button and reset the ETC. However, fan still blows high. The associated fuses 4,7 are fine and so is the relay. I do not think it is the CCU as I've read multiple accounts of people replacing this and still suffering from the same issue. I think I'm leaning toward replacing the battery harness as I read that if there is an issue there the CCU send a message to run the cabin fan until the battery is dead to protect the car.
@@shelleyphillips88 I had same issues and I replaced 2 times before it was right first only buy original OEM PARTS it is the regulator, I completely rebuild my whole ac system one thing I wanted was ac complete all OEM ,(i found out only.Behr orig parts blower and regulator then reset if I remember correctly I went through 2 sets before worked it blows my mind when it goes bad it stays on after key out, and kills batterry LOL it happened exactly the same way here.at least with internet you can find OEM parts for a decent price. I exchanged twice before I got it right, and exchange those filters yourself often in glove compartment (often) they are cheap. Others cabin filters every couple years. have had Behr products both blower and regulator for 4 years now,) still.works like charm. I recommend join Repair Pal w your Mercedes Benz if you have issues as a new MB owner 6 years ago now, Repair Pal helped me alot learning preventive measures throughout car, just saying wondering if you got fixed correctly, also Mercedes people told me only use OEM Electrical parts, period (cheap parts dont work) last, I paid $135 behr regulator $200 Behr Blower. Internet is only way buy OEM Mercedes. Otherwise parts at dealer insane, I know I love my 2000 Mercedes Benz 320 beautiful car, I aim to find another 4matic I want. learn one car stay with it. I always wondered what they meant it Mercedes Benz is a love hate relationship, lol if wevdidnt have internet MB would be insane cost to fix. I've been purchasing original parts I aim to replace before they go bad. Like alternator cost $400 brand new (dealor wanted $700+ ) not rebuilt now I am going to rebuild my old one even though it was good.Sooner or later they go, :) Be prepared I always say. Lol
I found the 140 821 8451 mercedes resistors on eBay which is made in China for only 20 bucks. For simple resistors I do not hesitate to go with this one. Mine still works fine but I love to watch for future use.
I have a 2005 E320 wagon How & what is the best way that you can determine if the blower motor regulator is bad or just the blower motor itself, because when I turn on the heater or AC nothing happens now etc ? Thanks
Car builders today are taking the piss big time .First is there labour charges not just Mercedes they are all guilty of it . how they can justify 2000 dollars to replace a Regulator is pure proof that the corporate world is going to destroy itself and the cause of it once again all leads back to the same single word = Greed .
Sorry but a plugged air filter will not cause a squirrel cage fan to work harder. A squirrel cage fan in open air will work the hardest as it is trying to grab more air than it was designed for. Otherwise a good video.
I followed your suggestion of replacing the resistor with the part number you provided. The blower then worked fine for 10 minutes and then stopped working. After waiting about 10 minutes the blower again worked...for about 10 minutes. It seemed to me that the resistor worked well until it got too hot (no huge heat sink as with the original) so on a hunch I gutted the electronics out of the original part, filled the void with silver solder, filed the surface flat and mounted the new resistor onto the modified heat sink. Problem solved!
Those interior air filters are often neglected - by the dealers! The crap I found in my Chevy/ Deawoo.... horrible. It's the car dealers that made me start doing my own maintenance and repair work.
The w210 chassies ran from 1996 until 2002 in sedan form with the wagon being carried over into 2003. The m104 inline 6 and tge 4.2 v8 where 96 and 97 model year engines, with the modular v6/v8 coming for the 98 model year. The e300 diesel was available until 1999 and tgen not again until the 211 chassies
travlincub321 Thank for the info. I have a 97 with I6
Regards from Bulgaria !
Work perfect !
The connections are by the colors of the cables !
Thanks
Thanks for your video. I followed your step and the fan is working again on my E320 (1998) and the regulator part cost only $120 US.
It worked on our 1999 E320 Wagon. THANKS
About to plumb up my 1999 E320 Wagon this week with the fix! How's your's running Don? Love this sled.
My car is a 210 chassis 2000 Mercedes E430 4Matic. I have replaced the regulator three times,cabin air filters, the cabin fan and the panel control trying to solve this issue. I've been troubleshooting it myself with my boyfriend (who has skills) for well over a year. I purchased the car out-of-state and did pay for a third party inspection but received it in this condition. The battery was dead so we replaced it. The next day, the new battery was dead so we charged it. Each day the new battery would be dead so we replaced the battery again only to have it continue to occur. Initially the cabin fan would continue to click on every few seconds until the battery drained even with the car off and key removed. Eventually we traced the cause of the sound and disconnected the wire to the heating control values to stop the battery drain until we had time to address the issue (we were in the middle of moving). The local foreign car mechanic had the car four months and could not solve the issue (actually denied a battery drain). The climate panel control was replaced because missing pixels prevented reading error codes. The new control panel didn't provide anything useful for codes to troubleshoot the cabin fan issue. At this point we already figured out that the regulator needed replacing. The HVAC has not worked since I got the vehicle. The freon level checked out fine. The first time the regulator was replaced, we followed this video and upgraded to the SClass regulator. The cabin fan and climate control operated normal the first time initiated. When turned on a second time, it blew on high until the regulator heats up and continues to blow high even with the key removed until the battery is drained. We tried replacing the regulator again with one for the EClass. Same thing. Then replaced the cabin fan and tried again. Same result. In the meanwhile the car wasn't starting in cool weather so I purchased yet another battery but this time got a heavier duty one and so far so go in cold weather. Then we purchased a third regulator and tried a different process thinking our process was wrong and may be at fault so we tried disconnecting the battery, replacing the regulator, reconnecting battery, erasing the codes from the control panel then turned on the heat but to no avail as we have the same end result. We have not yet replaced the heating control values. No coolant is leaking. Please help! Thanks!
Shelley, I realize your posted comment is 4 years old, but if other are reading, I respond: "What we're your trouble codes ? And did you research them thoroughly & investigate all of them ?"
I'd suspect you have a bad "body computer" that got liquid, rain or just broken internal circuit board fault that is causing all those disparate conditions.
In similar vein, on w210 models the Transmission Control module, mounted in sealed box near firewall, can suffer ATF oil invasion by a bad leaking transmission electrical plug (infamous 13 pin connector), that allows ATF to wick up the wire harness & soak the module.
Sounds crazy but also a sunroof drain clog can corrode body computer, similarly.
Doing a deep dive searching web by describing your problem can identify obscure solutions.
You mentioned that there are two filters behind the glove compartment. How do I find the one that you did not extract?
Have you ever tried repairing the damaged rezistor? I am curious if it can be repaired.
Nice Video! I'm going to check my air cabin filters soon.
***** thanks!
iRepair Autos Hello boos how are you doing have you done it ? I got the same thing my blower not working , not a good news in winter lol
HI can you please send Me the link where I can buy it from? ?
Will this be the same for a '99 MB E300D? The fan is very intermittent, some times it blows and others not.
I'm having the same issue. Did you figure it out? My cabin filters were full of dirt and leaves, so I'm going to look at the blower next.
@@morganlingsweiler9813 I replaced my blower motor regulator with this part # (W0133-1848195) and it corrected the issue.
so, it means that the climate control unit is compatible and recognizes new blower resistor from different model (in this case case S class) // is it possible then to plug in this particular resistor to another version of the automatic climate control unit, like the one that is in C-class (it differs from this E-class control unit in that it doesn't allow dual (driver & passenger) temperature adjustment. However, the blower speed levels and their graphical indication on the control screen are absolutely the same.
and I believe that the S-class for which this replacement resistor is designed also has the same climate control module as the E-class in the video (with L&R temperature control buttons)
any thoughts on how to get those two top screws out? I have tried mirrors and different screwdrivers and still can't get anywhere with them.
Hey, so are you saying we have to cut wires in order for it to fit or? i
Great video thank you very much
What do you use to attach resistor to the motor? Thx
need my repaired can you tell me where to go
I got a new resistor and put it on. I put some heatsink paste on it before I attached it to blower motor. It is now only blows on high now. If I remove resistor and let it dangle by the wires the fan speeds work correctly. Are you familiar with this issue?
I think you should probably try it with double sided tape. I see the behr kit comes with some of this.
Will this work on w211
if only one fan is working on a w210 mercedes what do you believe is the issue
Probably a belt on the backside.
Thanks for the info because my so s car blower motor stop working. Peace
Awesome, thanks!!!
Can you make a schematic of the connections?
Something's wrong! I replaced the regulator as per this video and now the fan won't shut off, at all, ever. Had to disco the battery. Someone online said the dealer has to reprogram something. What's up?
Same issue here ... It's draining my battery bad
Shelley Phillips: I re-reviewed the boards and they say you have to replace with the re-engineered blower, spiky regulator and cover. I bought them from autohausaz, about $300, installed and its working again. I would replace all four cabin filters too, to keep the blower from overloading.
Thanks Eric ... I'm going to give this a try ... I've been shopping for the parts ... We removed the regulator in the meanwhile thinking it would stop the drain on the battery but we were wrong, something is still clicking on and off in the cabin even when the key it out of the ignition and it keeps repeating until the battery is dead
Eric, it's 7 months later and still struggling with this issue. Initially we went through two batteries before realizing the drain was with the climate control based off clicking noising coming from the cabin and not faulty batteries and the fact that my cabin blower fan did not work at all (although the refrigerant level for the ac was fine). We replaced the regulator in the cabin fan and the cabin filters. The fan would then stay on even with the car shut off with the key out until the battery was drained. The fan controls were not working so we replaced the hvac control unit with a used one as the original also had missing pixels so we couldn't read the screen. Thinking it might be a faulty new regulator, we purchased another and experienced the same result with the fan running on high until the battery is drained. Then I purchased the whole new blower motor with cage and still am experiencing the same issue with the fan running on high until it drains the battery. We reset the AC errors (two showed up suggesting low refrigerant) and also reset the EC button and reset the ETC. However, fan still blows high. The associated fuses 4,7 are fine and so is the relay. I do not think it is the CCU as I've read multiple accounts of people replacing this and still suffering from the same issue. I think I'm leaning toward replacing the battery harness as I read that if there is an issue there the CCU send a message to run the cabin fan until the battery is dead to protect the car.
@@shelleyphillips88 I had same issues and I replaced 2 times before it was right first only buy original OEM PARTS it is the regulator, I completely rebuild my whole ac system one thing I wanted was ac complete all OEM ,(i found out only.Behr orig parts blower and regulator then reset if I remember correctly I went through 2 sets before worked it blows my mind when it goes bad it stays on after key out, and kills batterry LOL it happened exactly the same way here.at least with internet you can find OEM parts for a decent price. I exchanged twice before I got it right, and exchange those filters yourself often in glove compartment (often) they are cheap. Others cabin filters every couple years. have had Behr products both blower and regulator for 4 years now,) still.works like charm. I recommend join Repair Pal w your Mercedes Benz if you have issues as a new MB owner 6 years ago now, Repair Pal helped me alot learning preventive measures throughout car, just saying wondering if you got fixed correctly, also Mercedes people told me only use OEM Electrical parts, period (cheap parts dont work) last, I paid $135 behr regulator $200 Behr Blower. Internet is only way buy OEM Mercedes. Otherwise parts at dealer insane, I know I love my 2000 Mercedes Benz 320 beautiful car, I aim to find another 4matic I want. learn one car stay with it. I always wondered what they meant it Mercedes Benz is a love hate relationship, lol if wevdidnt have internet MB would be insane cost to fix. I've been purchasing original parts I aim to replace before they go bad. Like alternator cost $400 brand new (dealor wanted $700+ ) not rebuilt now I am going to rebuild my old one even though it was good.Sooner or later they go, :) Be prepared I always say. Lol
Very smart
I found the 140 821 8451 mercedes resistors on eBay which is made in China for only 20 bucks. For simple resistors I do not hesitate to go with this one. Mine still works fine but I love to watch for future use.
DitMeManhDungTriet d
I have a 2005 E320 wagon How & what is the best way that you can determine if the blower motor regulator is bad or just the blower motor itself, because when I turn on the heater or AC nothing happens now etc ?
Thanks
i have a 1997 Mercedes it want start it said charge battery and check egion electtronics
Car builders today are taking the piss big time .First is there labour charges not just Mercedes they are all guilty of it . how they can justify 2000 dollars to replace a Regulator is pure proof that the corporate world is going to destroy itself and the cause of it once again all leads back to the same single word = Greed .
Sorry but a plugged air filter will not cause a squirrel cage fan to work harder. A squirrel cage fan in open air will work the hardest as it is trying to grab more air than it was designed for. Otherwise a good video.
Or starving the air supply for air cooled resistor?
trying to find this replacement part can anyone help. how do I look up these part numbers shown
Well the part number was given to you...