JAPANESE DRIFT CAR SET-UP & SET UP YOUR COILOVERS FOR TOBASHI - SANPATSU
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- Опубліковано 17 тра 2020
- I► Engineering Explained - / engineer. .
► Kansai Allstars @ Meihan Sportsland - • ☆ 第20回 関西オールスター ドリフト G...
► / thedrift.club
► Follow me on Instagram @heathen_defiance
► Video edited by @quanticstudios_
Special Thanks to the contributors
@stacked_inc
@nakamura_naoki_n
@naokinakamuratechniquestudy
@miki_takagi49
@yosukesuga_scfilms - Авто та транспорт
"my caster is the wheels don't hit anything" 😂
It’s a very accurate measurement 🤷♂️✌️
This is exactly the kind of drift content I'm looking for.
Same same!
AJ Rubio same
I do apreciate how you keep it to one subject at the time, in stead of drowning us with info. It makes it easier to digest. 👍 It's another quality video, this, Mitto!
I needed this 4 years ago before I ruined drifting for myself 🤣
We all make mistakes, we’ve all burnt out. Drifting is waiting for you to come back 🙂💖
dude when was this channel my whole life,i knew you are very smart about these kind of setups and you got my attention since the outsiders video and then i recognised you in monky london vlogs but i never ever expected you knew this,its amazing and i think its intresting even for people who dont plan on drifting,its just mind blowing! thank you for everything :)
It’s such a crazy subject man... it’s sooo complicated and I think that’s a problem because it gets hacked at a lot.
For 98% of us, keeping it simple is the key to success! ✌️✌️✌️
@@driftcrash2286 i just cant wait to get my first drift car and start practicing,here we have quite a non existent amateur drift scene/event series but i will just call some friends and do private track days on various kart tracks that allow drifting
Do it! You have my full support to have fun! 😁✌️
@@driftcrash2286 Fishing Crash channel when?
loving the content! Keep it up!
Great video as always man!
absolutely loving this content!!!!!!
Another great one 👏🏻👏🏻🎌
Great work! Keep on going 🤙
Awesome stuff mate 😎👍
So informative! loving these videos
Thanks Mitto! Keep it coming 🤙🏻
Awesome stuff worth the wait keep up the good work bud
Awesome video matt thank you, loving the message
One of my new favorite channels. So informative! Thank you, keep it up!
That was helpfull as always..please keep it coming..this is gold
Thank you, I really enjoy these. Always something more to learn. 😎👍
Thank you! I look forward to learning from all of your videos.
Yes! Thank you
You dont get how much i check my youtube for these videos brother.
Thank you brother 🙏🙏
thanks for another super informative upload!! i dont have a irl drift car yet but i use your tips for my forza drift setups 🤙🤙
really loved this vid . more mitto-jjapan-tech vids please and thanks .
sweet vid man👍
Awesome content. I’ve been working on setting up my ae86 suspension during this lock down. Learning how to do my own alignments and making sure nothing rubs or binds. Thanks for the quality info
I feel like Neo learning kung fu with this channel. lovin it. thanks for your knowledge. This is gold.
I will improve the configuration of my suspension, I have adopted your advice! From already thank you very much! I'm thankful! greetings from Chile.
Cheers! 🍻
popcorn ready, time for some learning 👍
Another awesome video!!! Great to hear about the set up and the mindset! Keep me coming!
*em
Well, somebody is watching the channel for an unusual reason 🙈🤣
Drift Crash 😂
Came here because i was struggling with the bumps at DWYB the other day and have learnt a lot, especially damper settings. and use of helper springs. Thanks Mitto! Will check out your other video's now, Hopefully something on semi trailing arm cars?!
lol I feel like some of this goes over my head. I bought some coilovers from BC racing and I'll just trust how they come setup! just wanna get out there for sure and practice. great video man keep them up
Watch multiple times and you will figure it out 🙂✌️
Ah yes, the professional way of choppies on bump stops
In all honesty, another great video man, I love that it's more the foundation work of things so it lets you take information and interpret it to how you drive, seriously good stuff man, keep it up!
It’s less of an Interpretation that I’m going for and more of a “stop worrying about bullshit” message. If you drive like the guys in the clips, then you can start thinking about developing your own interpretation ✌️
That LowOrigin shirt tho ❤️🤙🏻
Almost wish you’d kept the blue S15, would love to see you apply a lot of these techniques and methods to a road/track car!
Same thing to me 🤣
The mad thing is I understand what your saying and it makes sence.. and I no nothing 🤣 lol really good vid Mr Meato ❤
That means I did a good job! (It could equally mean we are two idiots making eachother feel clever 😂😂)
@@driftcrash2286 seems more realistic to be fair 🙄🙄
Extremely important and overlooked. You need a LS1 and wisefab etc before getting it going.
You forgot the word “don’t” 🤣✌️✌️
@@driftcrash2286 Hahahah you know it!! top notch as always my man. 1 mil subs coming soon!!
ive been driving my s13 silvia with that kind of setup for 2 years now. full jacking up front, stays squatted in the rear, 2 way diff, very aggressive naoki inspired setup and I love it. the issue at this point is that I live in an area loaded with circle tracks and american influenced layouts where the grip I put in the car is getting limited with the power my SR has. for example, Ive been running a regular all season 265/35r18 but nothing high performance so I still can use 3rd gear without bogging the engine too badly. now my tire supplier closed his shop and I was planning to go with zeknova supersport rs in 265/35r18. i can see such a setup performing insanely well on track with a big high speed 3rd gear entry that is followed with 2nd gear stuff. but thats not how the places I drive are made. im kinda lost at this point since the japanese technique is what im passionate about but some things are restricting me. should I build the powertrain to make more power and be fine with good tires or just forget my dream and start running no grip like everyone does here. I make 350whp on a s13 sr gt2871r z32 trans and 4.08 final gear if that helps. i also thought about 4.6 gears but im scared 2nd gear will be cut too short and im not trying to raise the redline to compensate (reliability rules)
Its a real problem and one I share. I think the only solution is to find like minded people to run with or just keep driving they way thay makes you happy. Regarding the diff... you dont need to worry so much about second if you are in third! 😁✌️
@@driftcrash2286 well thats the thing. with the zeknovas theres no way im spinning 3rd in some sections of my local tracks. we'll see... it should make 20-30whp more this year with the ported head and cams and i can always play with tire pressures
Youll spin them with 350 and a 4.6 easily. Just run 2bar tyre pressure and dial down until you get the balance. Which region are you from?
@@driftcrash2286 Montréal, Québec. yeah Ill go to the local pick and pull for a Nissan Xterra Diff 4.6 this week and take the ring/pinion from it.
Well said Mitto
Hey man, great reference video, took some notes, could you say that having the trailing front wheel lift as you said is a way of omitting Ackerman steering for that wheel for a short period of time? I’m thinking that if so, it simplifies steering and front suspension tuning to focus on the leading wheel at lock/drift, just brainstorming
Pretty much!
Great content again Mitto, loving it👏😃 I wonder if there is a "rule of thumb" with axel weight Vs. How many kg spring rate that will work well in general for drifting? I guess there is no definitive answer for this but looking for a place to start 😅
I have some rough ideas. What chassis are you running?
@@driftcrash2286 Sweet, it's a bmw e30 coupe with the good old iron block m20 straight six with a big turbo strapped on, it felt abit nose heavy the season I started driving it and I've opted to give rear rad a go and also mounting battery and fuel cell low and as far back as the rule book allows me, move some more weight to the rear axle felt logical, I've currently got me a set of BC racing coilovers for it with 10k/8k springs. Thanks in advance 🙏 and I can't say how it feels with the coilovers since I haven't tried them out yet and the build is going full comp spec and probably not going to get this car to use before next season. Best regards.
@@MariusHgseth 8k rear is fine but your front end is soft. i would say 12k for the front considering the engine choice and being turboed.
Great subject, loving the information.
Can we have a break down on running swaybars vs running 1 only or non please
Run stock.
@@driftcrash2286 what if you have issues like i have. Im not able to put it back in the front. Hits the motor so i have been running without it.
Once you have the weight of the car on the damper. Do you just raise or lower the lower sping perch to get the car to sit at halfway through the dampers' range of travel?
so we are adding front preload, which allows the dampener to not compress as much when it sees the weight of the car so when it tries to travels it will top out?
Also the FAST/SLOW dampening equation. does soft = fast because it allows the spring to compress and load up the car?
Loving these videos dude! Someone else kinda asked already, but I also was wondering why not just run a stiffer front sway bar rather than purposely max out your damper to transfer weight to rear?
Stiffer front anti roll bar will stop weight travelling to the rear of the car, by holding the trailing whee down, rather than lifting it up.
@@driftcrash2286 ahhhh that makes a bit more sense! I was confusing myself with limiting front suspension travel for weight transfer vs. having a stiffer setup overall to just have less traction up front
Hi Mitto, there's an old post on the driftworks forum about alignment specs for s-chassis and if i remember correctly you've said that the "japanese style" alignment requires grippy "trackday" front tires. In this video you basically say equal grip or even less grip in the front is ok. I'm using same grip front and rear (KR20's in Japan, Federal RS595 in Europe) and i can't really complain. Alignment isnt on the aggressive front toe out, rear toe in side but just straight with around 6-7° of caster.
Those settings were posted a LONG time ago. Things changed and developed since then 🙂 rear toe in is overrated imho!
@@driftcrash2286 Thanks for the reply. Still using these numbers and i like it.
Good video. Can you just clarify fore/anyone else whether hard/soft is fast/slow or slow/fast. I personally prefer a softer dampening setting but still around mid way on my s14 BCs
SOFT = FAST. HARD = SLOW. The reason to control timing is so that you can recognise the polar moment of spring compression! ✌️✌️
This is the stuff everyone should hear. In regards to the damper adjust, with fast or slow, in what context? Driving or the speed that the damper moves?
Keen as to try the front damper setup!
So really I could have explained it better, but since it’s possible to physically see grip, you can watch video of your car and decide if you need your damper to move faster or slower. Determining how long you get to the maximum level of grip, how long you stay there and how quickly you recover. Does that help?
@@driftcrash2286 perfect 🤙super informative videos
love the video mitto! quick question regarding the rear dampers, is it preffered to have them centred in the travel range whilst loaded or allowing for full compression and restricting decompression? thanks for making these videos, its the sort of thing weve needed for a while :)
Middle of the stroke is pretty reasonable. I run 10mm droop to begin with and work from there.
@@driftcrash2286 i guess the only reason to increase droop is to stop the chassis hitting the ground
Droop promotes compression, so more likely to hit the ground 🙈 preload promotes bump recovery ✌️
@@driftcrash2286 would you not compensate for minimum compression with shock body length combined with droop to set your ride height? Adding droop essentially restricts maximum shock travel?
Or is it better to set it at central to the travel and increase the size if the bump stop. I understand i am getting away from your point of driving more but its mainly to satisfy my curiosity 😅
I go “does my chassis hit the floor... no, good, let’s drive” THATS THE MESSAGE.
I watched this video 3 times now... still can't decide if I want to remove the helper spring on my HSD coils... I love my setup right now. maybe if i smash up my control arms again ill give it a go.
It’s not like it takes very long to do and you can always put thing back in the exact same place 🙂✌️
@@driftcrash2286 I removed them :) Also when you explained damper settings and said hard = slow and soft = fast do you mean in terms of speed? I feel for strictly weight transfer a softer damper setting would mean slower and hard dampers would move the weight back faster... I could be wrong but this video has got me messing around with my setup more and I love it. thanks
People definitely overbuild their cars tho. For me i'm going to want to keep my car as simple as possible for budget reasons and so i have to become a better driver not build a better car. Its like cycling imo. Get the best bike ever and not break a sweat. Or ride ur dads old bike with a flat tyre and binding brakes and you'll get a better workout 😂😂
You're just so fckn RIGHT!!!!!
Sometimes I’m left 🤣
🙏🙏✌️
✌️😆✌️
What would you recommend someone who's looking to daily but would like to drift on track occasionally. Was gonna get some MonoPro's for my S15 initially but I've heard they aint the best. Looking at CS2's now, need to keep the cost below £1000
CS2s are decent enough. I run CS2 with swift springs, which I think Driftworks also sell. Puts the budget up, but far superior!
I can feel a small suspension rethink and rebuild coming up on my RC car. I actually set it up to have tons of droop and have all wheels on the ground at all times cause that seemed like a common sense approach. Basically, some droop screws in the front arms should also do the trick, right?
Droop screws would work, but it might be better to run a shorter spring. It’s been a while since I’ve done RC!
@@driftcrash2286 Well right now we all got time to experiment 😅 Thanks for the answer, love the new channel and Outsiders, Soul RC and all that. Thanks for educating us westerners
It’s not just me man... I’m the face I guess, but I have some amazing people helping me in the back ground 💖 Have an experiment and let me know what you find out. Might be interesting with the gyro and without the massive rear grip tyres like a 1:1 car 😂
So to reduce front droop, you are putting on a shorter spring? Or add preload?
Watch the video again. I haven’t mentioned front droop at all, only the position of the damper stroke.
What is the benefit of a high front crub radius you mentioned?
Watch the Japanese techniques video 🙂✌️
Can you go into a bit more detail on lower powered cars. Mx5’s , AE86’s etc
Yes. They have lower power, so don’t lift as much 🙈🤣 AE86 set up is a little different ✌️
@@driftcrash2286 would love an ae86 or solid rear axle focused setup vid
Mitto, you better smash the BDC with info like this haha
I’m just gonna enjoy driving my car and see what happens 🤷♂️🤣
@@driftcrash2286 thats what its all about! Cant wait to see a drift event with the knowledge youve shared though
Surely car will have larger compression stroke over lift no?
You’d think so wouldn’t you... but that’s not always the case.
@@driftcrash2286 Fair enough.
With the front shock you’re letting it sit on the car at full extension when jacked up then just taking out any free play in the spring with the collar and then determining ride height purely with the bottom collar position? Doesn’t this end up giving you too much up travel - as in your tyre will hit the chassis rail before you reach the bump stop? (suppose your tyre isn’t as close to the chassis rail to begin with compared to my idiot ride height mind 😅)
Feels like front anti roll bars would be a detriment to the effect you’re trying to create?
When the wheel isn’t touching the floor it doesn’t matter what it touches anyway? 🤣 But basically, on lift you create more clearance, so I don’t really get what you mean? ARBs work diagonally also...
Drift Crash I’ve always understood that setting a coilover you set the up travel first, making sure you have the damper hit the bump stop on the up travel just before the tyre might contact body/chassis (like you hope it doesn’t ever hit the chassis but if it’s going to the bump stop will prevent it) and then sort out rideheight using primarily the preload/spring length. I mean yeah, in the moment when you’re on it and squatting, lifting the trailing wheel this is kinda irrelevant, so I guess that answers my question that there isn’t much consideration given to the suspension behaviour other than the moment at which you really need that lift and squat, that’s the focus and to hell with any other drivability issues 🤣😅
Anti roll bars a witchcraft that I’ve only ever played with on silly FWD vehicles, so ARB is good because trailing wheels lifting thus pushing rear leading down further?
This is all very interesting and I have enjoyed the video, particularly about the checking the basics - I know this attitude helped me a lot on my first few drift days, knowing I had prepared my car so I didn’t spend time problem solving instead of getting a feel for things, for sure more people need to understand that.
By up travel do you mean the available compression before the damper bottoms out? Because I’m suggesting the opposite for the front for drifting... I want the damper to top out and lift the wheel, so compression stroke doesn’t matter because 80% of it is available. Make sense?
Dampers go up and down, you can control the weight on them and the speed they move. What else do you need to know 🤷♂️🤣
The Vaughn gittin effect
Similar... I did actually do a clip with him and Chelsea as a comparable, but I fluffed it 🤣
@@driftcrash2286 I'm loving all the videos man, thanks
This is why use a high rate helper spring on pro drift cars with drop knuckles and long shocks to still retain droop for big potholes or course edging but still retaining the low rebound setting. The standard helper springs are rubbish.
You are missing the point... you don’t want the travel, you want the wheel to lift.
@@driftcrash2286 I think UnicornGarage is talking about competition cars overall, many aren't trying to do backwards entries at every corner but want as much drive/grip to keep up with other silly power cars. I would say the trailing wheel lifting off the ground is definitely not as common in the rest of the world as it is in Japan. Whether that's right or wrong is obviously open to interpretation and how you like to drive..... Either way good video, basics are often overlooked by many I think, amount of times you hear someone say my steering is binding or going over-centre on a drift day, well rather than drive like it, lift the height of the car, make a lockstop or whatever then try it again. Once it's fixed you can move onto the next thing.
Vaughn Gitten and Chelsea Denofa are pretty keen examples, although slightly different. I am specifically talking about Japanese settings and technique, specifically, so I’m not chasing a comparison. As for right and wrong, I think that’s not a great outlook as it creates a divide. There are however, good and bad settings.
@@driftcrash2286 You can get weight jacking with a modern setup. But most don't know what they are doing when it comes to suspension setups. I understand what you are showing us and I appreciate the content.
I apologise for the very broad question:
A lot of amateur schassis owners like me would have similar entry level dampers. Hsd, BC, etc etc. Most around 8/6kg or 7/5kg spring rates.
For someone looking to try this big rear squat and front wheel lift style.... how much preload is a good starting point?
Most of us have been 'trained' to set coilovers at 0 preload, just captive.
Would you recommend 10mm adjustment as a start? Or is this no way near enough?
9kg front and 5kg rear with an SR20. But don’t get too caught up with that if your driving isn’t on point first! 🙏
Ah preload... follow instructions! Let the damper top out! Rear I normally start around 10mm droop
@@driftcrash2286 thank you!
@@driftcrash2286 takumi in the blue s14 runs 4kg rear :)
Naoki runs 5. That’s good enough for me.
Stabilizer bars, front, rear, or both?
Standard. Both!
Do you think we can adopt a more Japanese technique and car set up in the west or do you think its better to just have an understanding of how they do it and just enjoy drifting as a whole as it evolves in each direction?
Why can’t you drive with this techniques in the west? Gotta be the change to make the change!
I think I’m going to try my hardest to get my driving to that level as a fairly beginner driver from Aus I’m down to start now rather than later but I hope others will do the same because I think now that we are more connected to japan we should be able to get the knowledge out there so what you are going is great man I loved hearing all the stories of the early days in japan on the pinku style podcast!
If your mind is set, you can succeed, all the luck to you! 🙏 Glad you are enjoying man!
Drift Crash Thanks! 😁
(14:22) as a fellow Brit there is no need to tell me how to cuck eggs there... But seriously awesome video, I've been looking forward to it, super informal. I've been telling everyone under the sun about this channel. Can't wait to see it grow and watch some of this talk at BDC eventually!
I cannot wait to get back out and do some wild things!! 💖 Thank you for the support! 🙏
we need the "part 2" of the suspension video
Me too 😅
@@driftcrash2286 well, we`re waiting :D also did you drive on isc suspension? any opinions on it?
hard and soft, 70mm strokes and shafts.... all a bit ooh errr missus isn't it? :D
Is when you are involved ya filthy animal! 💖
Nice Mitto- could we see a screen shot of the lockstops you have welded to the lower arms? Also would be great to hear about the present scene in Japan. The FD events look empty but the grassroots level where entry level grungers can get a ton of practice without having to make a big production out of the whole thing seems alive and well- is this a correct assumption?
Lock stops are only relevant to the knuckle you are using. It’s not a “one size fits all” deal. It’s not a crazy observation about the events... competition, especially at that level aren’t cheap...
function over form my friend, improve it or remove it :)
I don’t really know what you are on about, but if it’s to keep things simple, then yes! 🤣
@@driftcrash2286 yeah, make it work right, if something don't work or don't make it better, fuck it off. 👍🇯🇵
I never learned how to suck eggs! 😅
Seat time>Mods