Smart Framing For A Warmer Tiny House
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2024
- In this video we take you on a tour of the framing details for the Actually Tiny House. By taking a common sense approach to advanced framing techniques, we reduce thermal bridging and improve energy efficiency. For more tiny house resources check us out at actuallytiny.com and follow us on Instagram @actuallytiny where we post a daily build blog including time-lapse videos of the entire build!
I build a tiny house a couple years back using an iron eagle trailer as well! I can tell you the concern for condensation around the edges of the floor on the metal flange is absolutely an issue. We’ve actually had mold start to grow behind furniture if we haven’t dried it out for a while. So yeah definitely recommend the continuous insulation as well!
Thank you for sharing this!
What ended up being the cause of this? air leakage? was your floor and flange thermally broken?
I removed my T1-11 siding and replaced with 1.5" Zip System from Huber Woods. And what a difference to keep heat in.
i cant belive you only have 308 likes. you are a very good teacher. i will rewatch this video. and thanks for putting this great info out. TRUST
Thanks for the sharing of information.
I won't completely pick every detail apart like a few of the people in the comments.
1. The eye bolt for hammock.
Width is never a equal or often adequate replacement for depth in framing members. I get the "old growth" logic).
2. Thermal performance.
There are calculation charts for something called "Fenistration". Basically the ratio of openings (door/window) that ate permitted. This varies greatly by State. Best to check local areas to ensure the "Certification of Occupancy" if you really intend to use tiny home as a dwelling.
3. Any span over 6' requires two lap studs (minimum 3" load bearing). So you may use the hanger that is breaking the span of your roof. But, if you run into a goofy inspector you may have to do double lap studs anyway. Totally changing the interior detail that you plan.
4. Talking cripple and lap studs.
Point load blocking is usually required. (great, more thermal loss) LOL
5. Floor decking. Plywood orientation. I understand your point about strength. In this small of a project it becomes a matter of choice.
Mitigate the issue of floor sag by using a t&g product.
6. Treated lumber and fasteners.
Use fastener rated for exterior decking and you don't have to worry about anything.
There are a couple of other things that I could go into but I've already said to much. I'm sure I will get a deluge of comments disagreeing with me. HA HA.
One last observation. Framing spacing. Have you heard/thought about 19◇ spacing? This spacing along with double top plate is often both cost effective and efficient.
Thank you and if you would like any clarification please feel free to contact me.
I'm a old broken builder with to much time on my hands. LOL 🤓
This is the best video I have find, when it comes to building tiny houses. I Cant wait to see the rest of the videos on this Chanel. Also thumbs up for the production quality of this video.
If you know framing and engineering, this is not really too good for Tiny homes.
This was one of the most informative videos I have watched on framing a tiny house. Thank you!
You explained it at my level.
And, you went into details on things most gloss over. Thank you!
Great video, thank you! You did a great job contextualizing your choices with/against standard construction in a way that let's the viewer see alternatives, but recognize the importance of verifying alternatives before implementing.
Great video! You do such a nice job explaining things. This is the best detail I have ever watched in a video of this type. Please keep producing these, they are greatly appreciated!!!
Wow! You packed a really impressive amount of not just info, but specifically value, into this video. I've watched a LOT of tiny house content and carpentry content, and I don't often see much anymore that I haven't seen before (not that I'm an expert in real life, haven't built much yet lol just a decent expert on specifically what UA-cam has to offer about tiny homes) but your video brought up some really original and insightful and useful details that are hard for amateurs to stumble onto without knowing industry concepts and key terms to look up. This is stellar. Thanks for the hard work you put into this great resource!
Just found this video/your channel and it's amazing. Great explanations and visuals to accompany them. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and helping us out in our build process!
Hey. I am planning to build a tiny house this summer. Right now I cut trees to saw my lumber. I have watched many videos now. Yours is fare the best have watched . Thank you for this information in the details.
Wow. Thank you SO much. My mechanical experience left me distrustful of traditional framing practices for a tiny trailer build. You have justified that feeling and explained ways to build better, lighter. I am working on plans for my first tiny , and have read many sites, and watched countless hours of videos. Yours is very well done. Going to your website in 3 2 1...
You definitely did an exceptional job! Some of it may be considered overkill and there was a lot I would alter to reduce weight. But there is a lot you did that I wish I had the patience to do because it looks great. This type of framework is quality and worthy of exposure. I usually keep rough framing rough framing and save the detail for finish work, but kudos.
Great to see your thorough and detailed breakdown of this, Brian, as per your kayak builds, thank you. This is something I'm very interested in over the next few years, though getting affordable access to land etc here in Scotland and rest of UK is a major challenge that I'm not yet ready to take on. I'll look up your other resources too. Looking forward to watching the next stages and updates too.
Ive helped my siblings build a few tiny houses, and we are tall, so I often don't have a issue arguing using multiples of 4 so we have to cut less and waste less plywood.
I actually only have done 8 by 16 stationary tiny houses, working on a new one for myself soon
We went with a Iron Eagle trailer as well for our build, and yeah! 10/10 would recommend!
Framing your roof with 2x8 @ 24" o.c. in lieu of 2X6 @ 16" will give you a stronger framing system and a deeper cavity for insulation. Not to mention it will be a tad bit lighter as well.
The downside ... you'll want to use at least 5/8" roof sheathing or better if you're not already doing so.
Yes, 2x8 on 24 is a better design for a static structure, but I am concerned that it does not allow for sufficient rigidity bouncing down the road over time. Also... 5/8" sheeting... not so sure you would see much in the way of weight savings.
10:10 From what I understand, not only that, but thermal bridging is how/where the condensation forms, which leads to molding. Ideally, a tiny house (and houses in general) should be completely thermally broken, to maximize efficiency and mold-resistance.
this is instructive. many videos make me happy for the builder/owner, but leave me with more questions than answers. thanks for the detailed conceptual pathway. i build in march, and am nearly paralysed with my partial knoweldge, ambivalence in every category. thanks for being the breed of video that gives me the sort of understanding that will make or break my attemped build.
i love the way you explain things! i immediately checked to see if you had a book.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video. You highlight some very interesting points regarding your process which although similar to wood home framing require different enough resolutions to create the end product you desire. Good job.
Such a practical and beautiful build, I think. I will copy a lot of it, when hopefully I'm going to start to build tiny houses.
Damn good video! I look forward to seeing more of your videos in the imminent future.
One thing I would have liked to see - a time lapse / build progress video to see the stages as you go. I am sure that there's a lot of stuff that I have seen before, but the concerns about attaching around wheel wells and a metal frame are fascinating to me, having never done anything like it before.
I love the level of detail you provide. Thanks
Great video! Learned many things. Love adding fun stuff. Thank You.
Excellent video.
This is my idea with what building tiny should be. Frugal, practical, simple and built to last.
Consider me subscribed.
Oh my gosh this is the video I've been looking for the detail information about the construction Thank you A lot of videos just show the finish product and don't really give a lot of detail about what it takes to Really build so once again thank you so much I appreciate this video and I am a new Subscriber and will be a long time fanfan Due to being a new farm Manager pursuing my own dream Of 1 day becoming my own property manager building my own Tiny home You are truly an inspiration thank you thank you thank you
Excellent video, learned a lot from your little detours on general construction principles. Thank a lot for sharing.
That was bloody brilliant, cheers 🇦🇺
Enjoying your videos! Thanks for the detailed info 🙂 about to subscribe to learn more!
Thank for for sharing your experience. This is my first video so I need to look and see if you have done a follow up.
Thank you for this excellent video. You are a natural instructor. Informative and clear!
Experience, the best teacher.
Wow. Dude you're a legend.
This channel is the best for beginner builders (or anybody) by a long shot. You sir, do a marvelous job explaining all the little details you put in and why you do it. Thankyou so much!
Lmao
Very detailed, yet concisely presented information...I'm getting ready to build my first tiny house, and this is the kind of channel I have been looking for. Subscribed. Keep it comin!
Awesome video, thanks for putting it together! Very informative!! 😃👌
Master of your craft! Great video
Fantastic work and great explanation.
these videos are great man!
So detailed and yet easy to understand. Thankyou ❤️ from 🇦🇺 Australia
Super useful info. Information overload for tonight. Bedtime soon.....
New subscriber! Very interesting and informative! Thanks for sharing this with us! Peace to all...💜💙💜
Im so green to this technical points so very much appreciated !
Great video. Thank you.
Great. Great. Great. Great info. Good layout of information and great quality video
Lol, I know you as the kayak/canoe guy! Last person I expected to see in this!
Again, thank you very much for the information.
I've learned so much from this one video. Holy smokes, thank you!
Really good video .
Very detailed and respectful,useful,pro tips that you mentioned that should definitely be took into consideration pleasure watching thanks and god bless you
Kudos, You're fantastic. UA-cam is such a fountain of knowledge ready to be consumed.
Dear Sir, very informative, and well done! One question, and one comment...Why not use 4" -5" of foam in ceiling? The cost factor?
And, from an old logger in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas Fir, Red Fir, and Second Growth, all refer to the same species. Old Growth, is also called Yellow Fir, because the heartwood is yellowish, not red, like Douglas Fir is. THANK YOU Sir for your excellent ideas. Please keep it up! Sincerely,MZ
Sorry Fizzy! Sent to the wrong address!
Good looking trailer!
Love it thanks for sharing ...
The 2x4s above your windows and doors should be spun vertically. Add a 1/2 piece of foam insulation between to make up thickness of the wall studs and have a thermal break.
👍well done!
Great video. I learned a lot from watching this.
Fantastic vid. So clearly explained. Thank you.
Agreed!
this was good info, thanks
Excellenr. Thanks for the structural details that r always overlooked but so important to have a thought process. Would like more explanation of how u did the insulation - not very clear but imp I’m sure. Thanks
We have a separate video explaining the wall insulation, but in the roof it's basically 2" foam, spaced 1/2 down from the sheathing to make an air gap for ventilation, then rock wool beneath the foam, then the ceiling.
I am building tiny houses in Alaska and I like the video. Looks like a good job. I would however be a little concerned about the structure of the roof if you have any kind of snow load. General rule is 1 foot of span for 1 inch of 2x. For instance, 2x4 spans 4 feet, 2x6 spans 6 feet and so on. 10 feet really is a stretch for 2x6. You may consider adding another cross beam. Also I seen a knot hole above your head when you were explaining the hanging chair support. If that 2x6 is spanning 10 feet and now you have a weak spot in that board, it will further weakens the roof. I have not seen those trailers before, I will definitely look into those.
I have 2 trailers coming to start my first two tiny house rentals. This is so helpful. Did you draw up your own plans or find these somewhere? Thanks
Nice video. Thanks.
wow- thanks for sharing
great video
Hi, thanks for the great info, wondering if you have a video on roof/ceiling framing and if you have consider to vent the roof like many do. they say if you use spray foam theres no need to create a venting system, but if you use other kind of insulation you do. thanks.
Well done
Thankyou for the helps
SO MUCH VALUABLE INFORMATION AND INSPIRATION. I WANT TO BUILD COLLAPSIBLE MODULES IN A RENTED ROOM. I LIKE THE IDEA OF COMPARTMENTALIZATION OF TINY SPACES AND FREE-STANDING, DUAL-PURPOSE STORAGE LIVING. IT HAS TO BE STRUCTURAL WITHOUT DAMAGING WALLS.
this is a really interesting and informative walkthrough, quality work. Really appreciate you sharing this. I'm curious as to how you would do this for 4 season living? Is the plumbing geared towards shore hook up use or are there holding tanks involved?
The plumbing is geared towards versatility. I set it up so I can change it to a variety of configurations easily.
I think you’re correct about not using the pressure treated lumber. The corrosives used in that treatment are Not good for any of your fasteners, or the substrate that you’re attaching to. You’re not having a ground contact issue at all, just potentially a condensation issue with wood contacting steel. That’s easy enough to isolate with a gasket or a membrane of some nature. Thus minimizing the thermal bridge, and dealing with potential condensation issues in contact with wood and metal.
Hi this video is an incredible resource so thank you to both of you for all of your efforts here on the channel. I am wondering if you have calculated the gross weight of the tiny house (unfurnished)?
Thermal break such as slices of foam insulation between studs and sheathing helps with thermal loss.
Very nice
First off, love these videos wish you had more! Question on the detail where the sill plate meets the metal trailer, any reason for no sill foam gasket between the sill and metal trailer? Also, any reason for not adding a vapor barrier to the floor frame before adding the sheathing? Thanks!
Excellent!!!
Extremely helpful - thank you for sharing.
Quick question regarding the plywood subflooring:
It would seem that the subfloor is not secured at the perimeter, floating on the XPS foam insulation. I understand that XPS is very strong in compression, so no worries there. But I wonder if you have experienced any deflection, while walking on the Maple flooring along the exterior walls? Thanks again.
Very informative. A few things I was unaware of. Especially with window headers and thermal bridging. I was wondering if using a sip panel roof. Would be cost effective? It would give more R value than using insulboard and bat insulation. But I'm not sure if it would add more weight.
The only problem with a sip panel other than cost, weight, and installation challenges, is you have to have some way for the top of the panel to breathe, if you put ice and water shield over it and then roofing, there is a chance that the wood on top of the sip could rot out. So with SIPS often people will build up a vent space composed of spacers and a second layer of plywood. Things get heavy and complicated though. For the life of me I can't get a straight answer from SIP manufacturers whether or not they will warranty a roof just built with membrane and roofing screwed on. I want to know!
Brilliant window sill slope
Thank you for making this ADHD friendly...the way you presented the information, hand movements, and giving visuals kept my attention...thank you for being a teacher and not just someone vomiting up information...you have no idea how much that means...thank you❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for shareing
Great content highly thought out, your window framing with the angled support it seems with an externally flanged window to make window sill angled for drainage, the top of window needs to tilt out. Theoretically this will happen with a plumb wall. Is this within the margin or error in construction? Or do you find this truly works? Great video , this is the only thing I questioned.
LOVE the basic floor plan design. Perfect size, in my opinion. I’m older and don’t need tight stairs, so this single story design meets that need too. Great detail and features. First design in tiny homes that honestly addresses need for some degree of storage 👍 and other daily living needs The deck with kitchen pass through is perfect. Overall, this is FANTASTIC and will be part of my guidance when I design.
The potential of this design in exciting.
Only thing I would add to the approach is more solar and other forms of passive energy production and storage. But that would work for me since I live much further south. I’m not sure how cost effective solar would be up in region around Quebec, so this comment is not criticism.
Because so many county building codes and tax codes differ in the USA, I also want to avoid the loft/stairs issue - and, consider old age for myself. I wish more tiny home videos showed and also explained not having a loft. I am hoping for a murphy bed, but am not sure about the weight or cost or the thickness or how different hardware affects the weight and thickness - or how ventilation of the mattress will work.
@@genkiferal7178look up beds on linear actuators. Better than a Murphy bed in my opinion. The bed lifts directly up into the ceiling when not in use, so it can stay fully made up and be ventilated from underneath. When lowered, it can rest on purpose-built furniture or framing so it is stable and safe.
@@Tonisuperfly Oh, I've seen those and they are interesting. But, with a murphy bed, you cannot see the bed anymore and you don't have to worry about expensive mechanical parts or engines wearing out.
A murphy bed seems more simple to me. I would cover the door part of it, though, with a pretty fabric so that the mattress could still breathe...maybe a silk-screen type of look or just linen and have other linen elements in the house - maybe curtains and slip-covers.
You should look into using SIPs. Built in structural insulation.
On the 21.39 mark of your video. What is that black channel looking thing between the ceiling and the wall stud up in the corner? Is that some kind of venting? I watched your insulation video and that wasnt explained at all other the you were gluing blocks to you foam insulation before installing them to the ceiling. Do you have a video on that at all as my tiny cabin is in a extreme enviroment and i dont want mold.
Great video!
A few things I'd have done differently...but that's life, right?
love the floor insulation, but i would of done 24" on center on the walls.
Ty sir
WOW!
@actuallytiny2537 I've watched this a couple times and found most of it great advise, but I'm truly curious where you got the info on the fibers of the plywood being stronger one way vs the other? The construction of the plywood and the reason it's so beneficial and sturdy is because each layer is rotated 90 degrees, so the fingers are running both lengthwise and widthwise so there isn't any noticable difference between the orientation of the board. Because the grains/fibers are perpendicular to each subsequent layer is what makes it stable and prevents it from moving
Do you have a diagram of how you positioned the foam on the trailer and the frame on top? I understand that you have bolted the frame laterally to the trailer but you can't tighten all the way with that foam in between correct? Won't it compress?
It's not under the plate - it butts into the side of it. Extruded poly foam has actually got a very high uniformly-distributed compressive strength meaning if you stand on it with high heels it'll get a hole in it but if you spread that load over the entire surface it'll barely compress.
Is there an advantage to using metal stud framing? They are lighter weight, but less insulating.....
Love your thought process, excellent delivery, consideration for building sci. You're doing such a great job. Couple of quick thoughts:
Plywood orientation on floor: I thought plywood puts each lamination perpendicular to the next, making it so the way you lay it doesn't matter unless you care to see the grain aesthetically.
PT floor plates: I hate PT and I have seen people just spray the lumber first with boracare (diluted 1:4 w/ water). I think the same concept of creating a capillary break between wood and concrete may apply here. Perhaps consider using 'sill seal' to break it from the trailer.
Width of trailer: I'm wondering if a 96" would be good followed by more 'perfect wall' concepts like you did on your roof. Exterior insulation with good drying potential like 1.5" of Rockwool comfortboard 80, wood fiber, or EPS, followed or preceded by a best in class WRB like Intello Mento or SIGA Majvest and a rainscreen.
And I love the window frame detail (5 degrees). Just a question, you must have to increase the vert dimension of the rough opening a bit right? Maybe an extra 1/8" - 1/4" measured from the front?
The Marvin Integrity windows are nice but I think double-hungs, just by design, leak a lot. I regret them in my larger house. There's manufacturers that sell swing/tilt windows that look like double-hungs. But I suppose being a tiny house, it's not so critical. Heating much less space so a little loss isn't the end of the world. Anyone living in one of these is drastically reducing their carbon footprint.
I admire everything you're doing. Such good work and thanks for sharing. Good stuff!
Thanks, agreed on the PT, wouldn't do it again. I generally feel pretty safe squeezing the vertical RO on a window, but definitely not horizontal. Interestingly I did all casement windows on my last house, and went back to double hung on purpose.
96 makes a lot of things easier, but man that extra 4 inches is nice. Going wide and low makes the house feel a lot bigger than it actually is, unlike most tiny houses that feel like narrow hallways. A lot of our dimensions were dictated by the space we need to get this thing in and out of the driveway and the space it needs to sit. Exterior rockwool is too heavy, and besides, it's not the insulation that's killing your efficiency in a tiny house it's the AIRFLOW. The ventilation rate needed to keep a tiny house with 2 people below 1000ppm CO2 just murders efficiency and unfortunately nobody makes a small HRV that doesn't suck!
So you recommend rock wool for the floor and ceiling but not walls?
oh I misunderstood, I was thinking that you were talking about a rockwool wrap like you see people doing sometimes these days where it goes on the outside of the sheathing behind the siding. That would add too much weight to a tiny house but for the interior of the sidewalls I definitely use Rockwool
Not sure what the OP was talking about but you've answered my question. Thanks!
@@actuallytiny2537 Yes I was talking about continuous insulation but your point about the weight is something I didn't think of. I personally have no issue with EPS foam. It's cheap, doesn't outgas CFC's slowly over 100 years, sometimes it can be obtained used, and it's vapor open. Have you tried Lunos for an HRV alternative? Curious how well it works.
Hey do you think all the extra blocking between floor joists sort of negates the benefits of using 24" o.c. spacing?
Are you worried about compression of the foam board on the flanges butting against the sill plate? Can it take a lot of weight?
i got a crush on you after seconds. precis, to the point, easy, structured and handsome =) thank you!!!
Love it, be nice to incorporate more recycled materials ;) lotta resources used in all of that new material
Thanks for such a great video! I hadn't seen the way you framed up the windows before. And great tip on the sloped window sill! Low-tech clever solutions are the best. :)
The one thought I had while watching was about bolts or other metal components that are connected, by metal, to the trailer itself. It might be beneficial to use a little bit of spray foam from a can on them (probably just $100 on both the hardware and foam itself to do this ... and it can also be used for better air sealing elsewhere, too). This will reduce the thermal bridging of the bolts and metal pieces, which can be huge when they are connected to the trailer bed (big heat sink). In addition to efficiency improvements, this can be good if these parts are not super well air sealed from interior warm, more humid air that could cause condensation on those very cold bolt heads in the colder months (rot concern).
I understand your point on the headers not being needed, but it still freaks me out. I’d probably have done at least a double 2x4 on edge header and put 1/2” of foam on the inside. Just me. Love the detail in planning!
Dude it's basically a shed. Lol. It doesn't have 10s of thousands of pounds to support