I build a tiny house a couple years back using an iron eagle trailer as well! I can tell you the concern for condensation around the edges of the floor on the metal flange is absolutely an issue. We’ve actually had mold start to grow behind furniture if we haven’t dried it out for a while. So yeah definitely recommend the continuous insulation as well!
This is the best video I have find, when it comes to building tiny houses. I Cant wait to see the rest of the videos on this Chanel. Also thumbs up for the production quality of this video.
Thanks for the sharing of information. I won't completely pick every detail apart like a few of the people in the comments. 1. The eye bolt for hammock. Width is never a equal or often adequate replacement for depth in framing members. I get the "old growth" logic). 2. Thermal performance. There are calculation charts for something called "Fenistration". Basically the ratio of openings (door/window) that ate permitted. This varies greatly by State. Best to check local areas to ensure the "Certification of Occupancy" if you really intend to use tiny home as a dwelling. 3. Any span over 6' requires two lap studs (minimum 3" load bearing). So you may use the hanger that is breaking the span of your roof. But, if you run into a goofy inspector you may have to do double lap studs anyway. Totally changing the interior detail that you plan. 4. Talking cripple and lap studs. Point load blocking is usually required. (great, more thermal loss) LOL 5. Floor decking. Plywood orientation. I understand your point about strength. In this small of a project it becomes a matter of choice. Mitigate the issue of floor sag by using a t&g product. 6. Treated lumber and fasteners. Use fastener rated for exterior decking and you don't have to worry about anything. There are a couple of other things that I could go into but I've already said to much. I'm sure I will get a deluge of comments disagreeing with me. HA HA. One last observation. Framing spacing. Have you heard/thought about 19◇ spacing? This spacing along with double top plate is often both cost effective and efficient. Thank you and if you would like any clarification please feel free to contact me. I'm a old broken builder with to much time on my hands. LOL 🤓
This channel is the best for beginner builders (or anybody) by a long shot. You sir, do a marvelous job explaining all the little details you put in and why you do it. Thankyou so much!
10:10 From what I understand, not only that, but thermal bridging is how/where the condensation forms, which leads to molding. Ideally, a tiny house (and houses in general) should be completely thermally broken, to maximize efficiency and mold-resistance.
Hey. I am planning to build a tiny house this summer. Right now I cut trees to saw my lumber. I have watched many videos now. Yours is fare the best have watched . Thank you for this information in the details.
Very detailed, yet concisely presented information...I'm getting ready to build my first tiny house, and this is the kind of channel I have been looking for. Subscribed. Keep it comin!
Ive helped my siblings build a few tiny houses, and we are tall, so I often don't have a issue arguing using multiples of 4 so we have to cut less and waste less plywood. I actually only have done 8 by 16 stationary tiny houses, working on a new one for myself soon
The 2x4s above your windows and doors should be spun vertically. Add a 1/2 piece of foam insulation between to make up thickness of the wall studs and have a thermal break.
this is instructive. many videos make me happy for the builder/owner, but leave me with more questions than answers. thanks for the detailed conceptual pathway. i build in march, and am nearly paralysed with my partial knoweldge, ambivalence in every category. thanks for being the breed of video that gives me the sort of understanding that will make or break my attemped build.
You definitely did an exceptional job! Some of it may be considered overkill and there was a lot I would alter to reduce weight. But there is a lot you did that I wish I had the patience to do because it looks great. This type of framework is quality and worthy of exposure. I usually keep rough framing rough framing and save the detail for finish work, but kudos.
Framing your roof with 2x8 @ 24" o.c. in lieu of 2X6 @ 16" will give you a stronger framing system and a deeper cavity for insulation. Not to mention it will be a tad bit lighter as well. The downside ... you'll want to use at least 5/8" roof sheathing or better if you're not already doing so.
Yes, 2x8 on 24 is a better design for a static structure, but I am concerned that it does not allow for sufficient rigidity bouncing down the road over time. Also... 5/8" sheeting... not so sure you would see much in the way of weight savings.
Very detailed and respectful,useful,pro tips that you mentioned that should definitely be took into consideration pleasure watching thanks and god bless you
Wow! You packed a really impressive amount of not just info, but specifically value, into this video. I've watched a LOT of tiny house content and carpentry content, and I don't often see much anymore that I haven't seen before (not that I'm an expert in real life, haven't built much yet lol just a decent expert on specifically what UA-cam has to offer about tiny homes) but your video brought up some really original and insightful and useful details that are hard for amateurs to stumble onto without knowing industry concepts and key terms to look up. This is stellar. Thanks for the hard work you put into this great resource!
Great video, thank you! You did a great job contextualizing your choices with/against standard construction in a way that let's the viewer see alternatives, but recognize the importance of verifying alternatives before implementing.
I have a 33" camper flatbed trailer with two axles at 3500lbs each. It has a camper on it right now, but I was wondering if that was good enough for a tiny home, maybe if I used 2x3's instead of 2x4, I saw a couple using that lumber for theirs.
Wow. Thank you SO much. My mechanical experience left me distrustful of traditional framing practices for a tiny trailer build. You have justified that feeling and explained ways to build better, lighter. I am working on plans for my first tiny , and have read many sites, and watched countless hours of videos. Yours is very well done. Going to your website in 3 2 1...
Great to see your thorough and detailed breakdown of this, Brian, as per your kayak builds, thank you. This is something I'm very interested in over the next few years, though getting affordable access to land etc here in Scotland and rest of UK is a major challenge that I'm not yet ready to take on. I'll look up your other resources too. Looking forward to watching the next stages and updates too.
Great video! You do such a nice job explaining things. This is the best detail I have ever watched in a video of this type. Please keep producing these, they are greatly appreciated!!!
Dear Sir, very informative, and well done! One question, and one comment...Why not use 4" -5" of foam in ceiling? The cost factor? And, from an old logger in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas Fir, Red Fir, and Second Growth, all refer to the same species. Old Growth, is also called Yellow Fir, because the heartwood is yellowish, not red, like Douglas Fir is. THANK YOU Sir for your excellent ideas. Please keep it up! Sincerely,MZ
SO MUCH VALUABLE INFORMATION AND INSPIRATION. I WANT TO BUILD COLLAPSIBLE MODULES IN A RENTED ROOM. I LIKE THE IDEA OF COMPARTMENTALIZATION OF TINY SPACES AND FREE-STANDING, DUAL-PURPOSE STORAGE LIVING. IT HAS TO BE STRUCTURAL WITHOUT DAMAGING WALLS.
One thing I would have liked to see - a time lapse / build progress video to see the stages as you go. I am sure that there's a lot of stuff that I have seen before, but the concerns about attaching around wheel wells and a metal frame are fascinating to me, having never done anything like it before.
Oh my gosh this is the video I've been looking for the detail information about the construction Thank you A lot of videos just show the finish product and don't really give a lot of detail about what it takes to Really build so once again thank you so much I appreciate this video and I am a new Subscriber and will be a long time fanfan Due to being a new farm Manager pursuing my own dream Of 1 day becoming my own property manager building my own Tiny home You are truly an inspiration thank you thank you thank you
I understand the weight vs structure - did you consider steel stud framing topped with wood? I’ve done wood and steel stud framing and the combination sounds feasible. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent!!! Extremely helpful - thank you for sharing. Quick question regarding the plywood subflooring: It would seem that the subfloor is not secured at the perimeter, floating on the XPS foam insulation. I understand that XPS is very strong in compression, so no worries there. But I wonder if you have experienced any deflection, while walking on the Maple flooring along the exterior walls? Thanks again.
I am building tiny houses in Alaska and I like the video. Looks like a good job. I would however be a little concerned about the structure of the roof if you have any kind of snow load. General rule is 1 foot of span for 1 inch of 2x. For instance, 2x4 spans 4 feet, 2x6 spans 6 feet and so on. 10 feet really is a stretch for 2x6. You may consider adding another cross beam. Also I seen a knot hole above your head when you were explaining the hanging chair support. If that 2x6 is spanning 10 feet and now you have a weak spot in that board, it will further weakens the roof. I have not seen those trailers before, I will definitely look into those.
Thank you for making this ADHD friendly...the way you presented the information, hand movements, and giving visuals kept my attention...thank you for being a teacher and not just someone vomiting up information...you have no idea how much that means...thank you❤️❤️❤️
Thoroughly enjoyed your video. You highlight some very interesting points regarding your process which although similar to wood home framing require different enough resolutions to create the end product you desire. Good job.
Great content highly thought out, your window framing with the angled support it seems with an externally flanged window to make window sill angled for drainage, the top of window needs to tilt out. Theoretically this will happen with a plumb wall. Is this within the margin or error in construction? Or do you find this truly works? Great video , this is the only thing I questioned.
Just found this video/your channel and it's amazing. Great explanations and visuals to accompany them. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and helping us out in our build process!
On the 21.39 mark of your video. What is that black channel looking thing between the ceiling and the wall stud up in the corner? Is that some kind of venting? I watched your insulation video and that wasnt explained at all other the you were gluing blocks to you foam insulation before installing them to the ceiling. Do you have a video on that at all as my tiny cabin is in a extreme enviroment and i dont want mold.
Excellenr. Thanks for the structural details that r always overlooked but so important to have a thought process. Would like more explanation of how u did the insulation - not very clear but imp I’m sure. Thanks
We have a separate video explaining the wall insulation, but in the roof it's basically 2" foam, spaced 1/2 down from the sheathing to make an air gap for ventilation, then rock wool beneath the foam, then the ceiling.
I think you’re correct about not using the pressure treated lumber. The corrosives used in that treatment are Not good for any of your fasteners, or the substrate that you’re attaching to. You’re not having a ground contact issue at all, just potentially a condensation issue with wood contacting steel. That’s easy enough to isolate with a gasket or a membrane of some nature. Thus minimizing the thermal bridge, and dealing with potential condensation issues in contact with wood and metal.
First off, love these videos wish you had more! Question on the detail where the sill plate meets the metal trailer, any reason for no sill foam gasket between the sill and metal trailer? Also, any reason for not adding a vapor barrier to the floor frame before adding the sheathing? Thanks!
That's not a bad idea. I bet you could, but it is a moving trailer so I think there is some structural requirements, would maybe need a solid welded main frame or something.
Hi this video is an incredible resource so thank you to both of you for all of your efforts here on the channel. I am wondering if you have calculated the gross weight of the tiny house (unfurnished)?
Hi, thanks for the great info, wondering if you have a video on roof/ceiling framing and if you have consider to vent the roof like many do. they say if you use spray foam theres no need to create a venting system, but if you use other kind of insulation you do. thanks.
Thanks for such a great video! I hadn't seen the way you framed up the windows before. And great tip on the sloped window sill! Low-tech clever solutions are the best. :) The one thought I had while watching was about bolts or other metal components that are connected, by metal, to the trailer itself. It might be beneficial to use a little bit of spray foam from a can on them (probably just $100 on both the hardware and foam itself to do this ... and it can also be used for better air sealing elsewhere, too). This will reduce the thermal bridging of the bolts and metal pieces, which can be huge when they are connected to the trailer bed (big heat sink). In addition to efficiency improvements, this can be good if these parts are not super well air sealed from interior warm, more humid air that could cause condensation on those very cold bolt heads in the colder months (rot concern).
Do you have a diagram of how you positioned the foam on the trailer and the frame on top? I understand that you have bolted the frame laterally to the trailer but you can't tighten all the way with that foam in between correct? Won't it compress?
It's not under the plate - it butts into the side of it. Extruded poly foam has actually got a very high uniformly-distributed compressive strength meaning if you stand on it with high heels it'll get a hole in it but if you spread that load over the entire surface it'll barely compress.
@Fart Zilla why are they garbage? just because they are expensive? they eliminate thermal briding via the studs, make running wires and piping much easier and are stronger.
this is a really interesting and informative walkthrough, quality work. Really appreciate you sharing this. I'm curious as to how you would do this for 4 season living? Is the plumbing geared towards shore hook up use or are there holding tanks involved?
Love your thought process, excellent delivery, consideration for building sci. You're doing such a great job. Couple of quick thoughts: Plywood orientation on floor: I thought plywood puts each lamination perpendicular to the next, making it so the way you lay it doesn't matter unless you care to see the grain aesthetically. PT floor plates: I hate PT and I have seen people just spray the lumber first with boracare (diluted 1:4 w/ water). I think the same concept of creating a capillary break between wood and concrete may apply here. Perhaps consider using 'sill seal' to break it from the trailer. Width of trailer: I'm wondering if a 96" would be good followed by more 'perfect wall' concepts like you did on your roof. Exterior insulation with good drying potential like 1.5" of Rockwool comfortboard 80, wood fiber, or EPS, followed or preceded by a best in class WRB like Intello Mento or SIGA Majvest and a rainscreen. And I love the window frame detail (5 degrees). Just a question, you must have to increase the vert dimension of the rough opening a bit right? Maybe an extra 1/8" - 1/4" measured from the front? The Marvin Integrity windows are nice but I think double-hungs, just by design, leak a lot. I regret them in my larger house. There's manufacturers that sell swing/tilt windows that look like double-hungs. But I suppose being a tiny house, it's not so critical. Heating much less space so a little loss isn't the end of the world. Anyone living in one of these is drastically reducing their carbon footprint. I admire everything you're doing. Such good work and thanks for sharing. Good stuff!
Thanks, agreed on the PT, wouldn't do it again. I generally feel pretty safe squeezing the vertical RO on a window, but definitely not horizontal. Interestingly I did all casement windows on my last house, and went back to double hung on purpose. 96 makes a lot of things easier, but man that extra 4 inches is nice. Going wide and low makes the house feel a lot bigger than it actually is, unlike most tiny houses that feel like narrow hallways. A lot of our dimensions were dictated by the space we need to get this thing in and out of the driveway and the space it needs to sit. Exterior rockwool is too heavy, and besides, it's not the insulation that's killing your efficiency in a tiny house it's the AIRFLOW. The ventilation rate needed to keep a tiny house with 2 people below 1000ppm CO2 just murders efficiency and unfortunately nobody makes a small HRV that doesn't suck!
oh I misunderstood, I was thinking that you were talking about a rockwool wrap like you see people doing sometimes these days where it goes on the outside of the sheathing behind the siding. That would add too much weight to a tiny house but for the interior of the sidewalls I definitely use Rockwool
@@actuallytiny2537 Yes I was talking about continuous insulation but your point about the weight is something I didn't think of. I personally have no issue with EPS foam. It's cheap, doesn't outgas CFC's slowly over 100 years, sometimes it can be obtained used, and it's vapor open. Have you tried Lunos for an HRV alternative? Curious how well it works.
thoughts re plumbing and electrical. I would put it outside the walls, reason is that if anything leaks etc would will find it quickly and reduce the damage to the construction and you can get to the area easier. You can hide it in various ways or show it off in a decorative way
@@TheLadySakai I guess if you used a shiny copper pipe it could be quite artistic. I've seen such pipes used as curtain rods, for faucets, as clothing rods and light fixtures. very very nice if one is able to get the shinier ones. A matching copper bathroom sink would be divine with those! Copper prices might go through the roof soon, so if you find used pipes or fixtures, buy them now.
Would you frame more if you were putting in lofts? I really need strong lofts for my kids in mine, and I don't want to be worried when they try to get them of their friends up their to see their lofts. Like I want to be sure the structure is hefty and safe.
@actuallytiny2537 I've watched this a couple times and found most of it great advise, but I'm truly curious where you got the info on the fibers of the plywood being stronger one way vs the other? The construction of the plywood and the reason it's so beneficial and sturdy is because each layer is rotated 90 degrees, so the fingers are running both lengthwise and widthwise so there isn't any noticable difference between the orientation of the board. Because the grains/fibers are perpendicular to each subsequent layer is what makes it stable and prevents it from moving
I understand your point on the headers not being needed, but it still freaks me out. I’d probably have done at least a double 2x4 on edge header and put 1/2” of foam on the inside. Just me. Love the detail in planning!
I would suggest notching the post to receive the beam and THEN bracketing them together. It would be a catastrophic failure if the trim 2x4 were removed by someone who was not aware of its structural purpose in the future. Additionally, those bracket screws create a line for splitting out that post when subjected to the bouncing going down the road. If the 2x4 trim is not exactly the same expansion/contraction/length required to mirror that of the post, I would be concerned fatigue over time would be a problem. Your design considered vertical loading but perhaps not the horizontal and twisting when the trailer is unevenly supported due to pot holes or other road debris which will apply torsional loading which could very well split that post. If however you had notched and glued the beam into the post with lag screws from the outside to pull and hold the beam into the post in addition to the bracket and the final 2x4 support, I think it would be a much stronger structure overall because it would eliminate the hinge effect which you currently have at that joint. Consider Japanese joinery wherein multi -story buildings have survived earthquakes and hurricanes for centuries without a single bracket or metal fastener.
Good info. for builders who want to save both money and weight on their tiny house. I can't really argue with anything that you said. I would like to know what you are planning to use for the interior wall finish - drywall or plywood? I don't think drywall is suitable if this unit will be on the road a lot. Also I would use some 29 ga. diagonal galvanized metal strapping to the studs interior and exterior to stiffen the overall structure to road flexure as well as to wind resistance. I assume that all members and cladding are screwed together rather than nailed.
I designed the shape of this house with massive sheer panels so the whole thing sheathed with half inch ply ring nailed together and the continuous flat plane of the roof is probably going to be fine to deal with moving the house. If you’ve got good sheer strength sheet rock will hold up in a tiny house although probably not something that’s designed to be moved all the time. We also glued the sheer panels on in addition to the ring nails.
Excelent video, BUT: i think you can find a trailer that would allow you to remove the house from it in order to place it on a foundation after u finish building it so that you can creat a porch around and garden, etc...what abiut this aspect ?
This works where the biggest issue is the cold coming from the North, .if you moved further South where it gets hot from the South, you’d want to park the windowless wall to face South to exactly prevent thermal gain during hot days.
I build a tiny house a couple years back using an iron eagle trailer as well! I can tell you the concern for condensation around the edges of the floor on the metal flange is absolutely an issue. We’ve actually had mold start to grow behind furniture if we haven’t dried it out for a while. So yeah definitely recommend the continuous insulation as well!
Thank you for sharing this!
What ended up being the cause of this? air leakage? was your floor and flange thermally broken?
I removed my T1-11 siding and replaced with 1.5" Zip System from Huber Woods. And what a difference to keep heat in.
You explained it at my level.
And, you went into details on things most gloss over. Thank you!
This is the best video I have find, when it comes to building tiny houses. I Cant wait to see the rest of the videos on this Chanel. Also thumbs up for the production quality of this video.
If you know framing and engineering, this is not really too good for Tiny homes.
This was one of the most informative videos I have watched on framing a tiny house. Thank you!
I'm impressed. You have brought up your mistakes as educational tools. I THANK YOU✨😊✨
Thanks for the sharing of information.
I won't completely pick every detail apart like a few of the people in the comments.
1. The eye bolt for hammock.
Width is never a equal or often adequate replacement for depth in framing members. I get the "old growth" logic).
2. Thermal performance.
There are calculation charts for something called "Fenistration". Basically the ratio of openings (door/window) that ate permitted. This varies greatly by State. Best to check local areas to ensure the "Certification of Occupancy" if you really intend to use tiny home as a dwelling.
3. Any span over 6' requires two lap studs (minimum 3" load bearing). So you may use the hanger that is breaking the span of your roof. But, if you run into a goofy inspector you may have to do double lap studs anyway. Totally changing the interior detail that you plan.
4. Talking cripple and lap studs.
Point load blocking is usually required. (great, more thermal loss) LOL
5. Floor decking. Plywood orientation. I understand your point about strength. In this small of a project it becomes a matter of choice.
Mitigate the issue of floor sag by using a t&g product.
6. Treated lumber and fasteners.
Use fastener rated for exterior decking and you don't have to worry about anything.
There are a couple of other things that I could go into but I've already said to much. I'm sure I will get a deluge of comments disagreeing with me. HA HA.
One last observation. Framing spacing. Have you heard/thought about 19◇ spacing? This spacing along with double top plate is often both cost effective and efficient.
Thank you and if you would like any clarification please feel free to contact me.
I'm a old broken builder with to much time on my hands. LOL 🤓
I think you are great. I use to frame too. 65yrs old now. They would put me on the roof. 3/4 ply and spin it like a pizza because I'm 5'2. ✨💃✨
What do think; is he worried too much about the application of insulation?. I don't like the vent at the top.?
I like this guy why cause he does not go overboard and exotic with his build he uses the kiss technique and keeps it honest, and it works well
This channel is the best for beginner builders (or anybody) by a long shot. You sir, do a marvelous job explaining all the little details you put in and why you do it. Thankyou so much!
Lmao
10:10 From what I understand, not only that, but thermal bridging is how/where the condensation forms, which leads to molding. Ideally, a tiny house (and houses in general) should be completely thermally broken, to maximize efficiency and mold-resistance.
Hey. I am planning to build a tiny house this summer. Right now I cut trees to saw my lumber. I have watched many videos now. Yours is fare the best have watched . Thank you for this information in the details.
Dry. Dry.😊
Very detailed, yet concisely presented information...I'm getting ready to build my first tiny house, and this is the kind of channel I have been looking for. Subscribed. Keep it comin!
Ive helped my siblings build a few tiny houses, and we are tall, so I often don't have a issue arguing using multiples of 4 so we have to cut less and waste less plywood.
I actually only have done 8 by 16 stationary tiny houses, working on a new one for myself soon
The 2x4s above your windows and doors should be spun vertically. Add a 1/2 piece of foam insulation between to make up thickness of the wall studs and have a thermal break.
this is instructive. many videos make me happy for the builder/owner, but leave me with more questions than answers. thanks for the detailed conceptual pathway. i build in march, and am nearly paralysed with my partial knoweldge, ambivalence in every category. thanks for being the breed of video that gives me the sort of understanding that will make or break my attemped build.
You definitely did an exceptional job! Some of it may be considered overkill and there was a lot I would alter to reduce weight. But there is a lot you did that I wish I had the patience to do because it looks great. This type of framework is quality and worthy of exposure. I usually keep rough framing rough framing and save the detail for finish work, but kudos.
Framing your roof with 2x8 @ 24" o.c. in lieu of 2X6 @ 16" will give you a stronger framing system and a deeper cavity for insulation. Not to mention it will be a tad bit lighter as well.
The downside ... you'll want to use at least 5/8" roof sheathing or better if you're not already doing so.
Yes, 2x8 on 24 is a better design for a static structure, but I am concerned that it does not allow for sufficient rigidity bouncing down the road over time. Also... 5/8" sheeting... not so sure you would see much in the way of weight savings.
Very detailed and respectful,useful,pro tips that you mentioned that should definitely be took into consideration pleasure watching thanks and god bless you
So detailed and yet easy to understand. Thankyou ❤️ from 🇦🇺 Australia
Wow! You packed a really impressive amount of not just info, but specifically value, into this video. I've watched a LOT of tiny house content and carpentry content, and I don't often see much anymore that I haven't seen before (not that I'm an expert in real life, haven't built much yet lol just a decent expert on specifically what UA-cam has to offer about tiny homes) but your video brought up some really original and insightful and useful details that are hard for amateurs to stumble onto without knowing industry concepts and key terms to look up. This is stellar. Thanks for the hard work you put into this great resource!
Great video, thank you! You did a great job contextualizing your choices with/against standard construction in a way that let's the viewer see alternatives, but recognize the importance of verifying alternatives before implementing.
I have a 33" camper flatbed trailer with two axles at 3500lbs each. It has a camper on it right now, but I was wondering if that was good enough for a tiny home, maybe if I used 2x3's instead of 2x4, I saw a couple using that lumber for theirs.
Wow. Thank you SO much. My mechanical experience left me distrustful of traditional framing practices for a tiny trailer build. You have justified that feeling and explained ways to build better, lighter. I am working on plans for my first tiny , and have read many sites, and watched countless hours of videos. Yours is very well done. Going to your website in 3 2 1...
Excellent video.
This is my idea with what building tiny should be. Frugal, practical, simple and built to last.
Consider me subscribed.
Great to see your thorough and detailed breakdown of this, Brian, as per your kayak builds, thank you. This is something I'm very interested in over the next few years, though getting affordable access to land etc here in Scotland and rest of UK is a major challenge that I'm not yet ready to take on. I'll look up your other resources too. Looking forward to watching the next stages and updates too.
Im so green to this technical points so very much appreciated !
Great video! You do such a nice job explaining things. This is the best detail I have ever watched in a video of this type. Please keep producing these, they are greatly appreciated!!!
i love the way you explain things! i immediately checked to see if you had a book.
Kudos, You're fantastic. UA-cam is such a fountain of knowledge ready to be consumed.
Dear Sir, very informative, and well done! One question, and one comment...Why not use 4" -5" of foam in ceiling? The cost factor?
And, from an old logger in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas Fir, Red Fir, and Second Growth, all refer to the same species. Old Growth, is also called Yellow Fir, because the heartwood is yellowish, not red, like Douglas Fir is. THANK YOU Sir for your excellent ideas. Please keep it up! Sincerely,MZ
Sorry Fizzy! Sent to the wrong address!
SO MUCH VALUABLE INFORMATION AND INSPIRATION. I WANT TO BUILD COLLAPSIBLE MODULES IN A RENTED ROOM. I LIKE THE IDEA OF COMPARTMENTALIZATION OF TINY SPACES AND FREE-STANDING, DUAL-PURPOSE STORAGE LIVING. IT HAS TO BE STRUCTURAL WITHOUT DAMAGING WALLS.
Awesome😊
Thank you for this excellent video. You are a natural instructor. Informative and clear!
One thing I would have liked to see - a time lapse / build progress video to see the stages as you go. I am sure that there's a lot of stuff that I have seen before, but the concerns about attaching around wheel wells and a metal frame are fascinating to me, having never done anything like it before.
I love the level of detail you provide. Thanks
We went with a Iron Eagle trailer as well for our build, and yeah! 10/10 would recommend!
Master of your craft! Great video
Again, thank you very much for the information.
Oh my gosh this is the video I've been looking for the detail information about the construction Thank you A lot of videos just show the finish product and don't really give a lot of detail about what it takes to Really build so once again thank you so much I appreciate this video and I am a new Subscriber and will be a long time fanfan Due to being a new farm Manager pursuing my own dream Of 1 day becoming my own property manager building my own Tiny home You are truly an inspiration thank you thank you thank you
I understand the weight vs structure - did you consider steel stud framing topped with wood? I’ve done wood and steel stud framing and the combination sounds feasible. Thank you for sharing.
Such a practical and beautiful build, I think. I will copy a lot of it, when hopefully I'm going to start to build tiny houses.
Good looking trailer!
Fantastic vid. So clearly explained. Thank you.
Agreed!
Great. Great. Great. Great info. Good layout of information and great quality video
Excellent!!!
Extremely helpful - thank you for sharing.
Quick question regarding the plywood subflooring:
It would seem that the subfloor is not secured at the perimeter, floating on the XPS foam insulation. I understand that XPS is very strong in compression, so no worries there. But I wonder if you have experienced any deflection, while walking on the Maple flooring along the exterior walls? Thanks again.
Fantastic work and great explanation.
I am building tiny houses in Alaska and I like the video. Looks like a good job. I would however be a little concerned about the structure of the roof if you have any kind of snow load. General rule is 1 foot of span for 1 inch of 2x. For instance, 2x4 spans 4 feet, 2x6 spans 6 feet and so on. 10 feet really is a stretch for 2x6. You may consider adding another cross beam. Also I seen a knot hole above your head when you were explaining the hanging chair support. If that 2x6 is spanning 10 feet and now you have a weak spot in that board, it will further weakens the roof. I have not seen those trailers before, I will definitely look into those.
Thank you for making this ADHD friendly...the way you presented the information, hand movements, and giving visuals kept my attention...thank you for being a teacher and not just someone vomiting up information...you have no idea how much that means...thank you❤️❤️❤️
Damn good video! I look forward to seeing more of your videos in the imminent future.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video. You highlight some very interesting points regarding your process which although similar to wood home framing require different enough resolutions to create the end product you desire. Good job.
I've learned so much from this one video. Holy smokes, thank you!
Great content highly thought out, your window framing with the angled support it seems with an externally flanged window to make window sill angled for drainage, the top of window needs to tilt out. Theoretically this will happen with a plumb wall. Is this within the margin or error in construction? Or do you find this truly works? Great video , this is the only thing I questioned.
Just found this video/your channel and it's amazing. Great explanations and visuals to accompany them. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and helping us out in our build process!
On the 21.39 mark of your video. What is that black channel looking thing between the ceiling and the wall stud up in the corner? Is that some kind of venting? I watched your insulation video and that wasnt explained at all other the you were gluing blocks to you foam insulation before installing them to the ceiling. Do you have a video on that at all as my tiny cabin is in a extreme enviroment and i dont want mold.
Awesome video, thanks for putting it together! Very informative!! 😃👌
Excellent video, learned a lot from your little detours on general construction principles. Thank a lot for sharing.
Excellenr. Thanks for the structural details that r always overlooked but so important to have a thought process. Would like more explanation of how u did the insulation - not very clear but imp I’m sure. Thanks
We have a separate video explaining the wall insulation, but in the roof it's basically 2" foam, spaced 1/2 down from the sheathing to make an air gap for ventilation, then rock wool beneath the foam, then the ceiling.
Super useful info. Information overload for tonight. Bedtime soon.....
Thank for for sharing your experience. This is my first video so I need to look and see if you have done a follow up.
Thermal break such as slices of foam insulation between studs and sheathing helps with thermal loss.
That was bloody brilliant, cheers 🇦🇺
Great video! Learned many things. Love adding fun stuff. Thank You.
Experience, the best teacher.
I think you’re correct about not using the pressure treated lumber. The corrosives used in that treatment are Not good for any of your fasteners, or the substrate that you’re attaching to. You’re not having a ground contact issue at all, just potentially a condensation issue with wood contacting steel. That’s easy enough to isolate with a gasket or a membrane of some nature. Thus minimizing the thermal bridge, and dealing with potential condensation issues in contact with wood and metal.
Absolutely😊
Enjoying your videos! Thanks for the detailed info 🙂 about to subscribe to learn more!
First off, love these videos wish you had more! Question on the detail where the sill plate meets the metal trailer, any reason for no sill foam gasket between the sill and metal trailer? Also, any reason for not adding a vapor barrier to the floor frame before adding the sheathing? Thanks!
I have 2 trailers coming to start my first two tiny house rentals. This is so helpful. Did you draw up your own plans or find these somewhere? Thanks
14:00 those screws sticking out...are they holding the beams from slipping out? 😉
Lol, I know you as the kayak/canoe guy! Last person I expected to see in this!
Thanks for the video. I'm curious why you wouldn't use steel studs in your walls. More room for insulation, less weight and cheaper.
That's not a bad idea. I bet you could, but it is a moving trailer so I think there is some structural requirements, would maybe need a solid welded main frame or something.
In Australia they do steel studs
Hi this video is an incredible resource so thank you to both of you for all of your efforts here on the channel. I am wondering if you have calculated the gross weight of the tiny house (unfurnished)?
Hi, thanks for the great info, wondering if you have a video on roof/ceiling framing and if you have consider to vent the roof like many do. they say if you use spray foam theres no need to create a venting system, but if you use other kind of insulation you do. thanks.
these videos are great man!
Great video. I learned a lot from watching this.
Thanks for such a great video! I hadn't seen the way you framed up the windows before. And great tip on the sloped window sill! Low-tech clever solutions are the best. :)
The one thought I had while watching was about bolts or other metal components that are connected, by metal, to the trailer itself. It might be beneficial to use a little bit of spray foam from a can on them (probably just $100 on both the hardware and foam itself to do this ... and it can also be used for better air sealing elsewhere, too). This will reduce the thermal bridging of the bolts and metal pieces, which can be huge when they are connected to the trailer bed (big heat sink). In addition to efficiency improvements, this can be good if these parts are not super well air sealed from interior warm, more humid air that could cause condensation on those very cold bolt heads in the colder months (rot concern).
Really good video .
Do you have a diagram of how you positioned the foam on the trailer and the frame on top? I understand that you have bolted the frame laterally to the trailer but you can't tighten all the way with that foam in between correct? Won't it compress?
It's not under the plate - it butts into the side of it. Extruded poly foam has actually got a very high uniformly-distributed compressive strength meaning if you stand on it with high heels it'll get a hole in it but if you spread that load over the entire surface it'll barely compress.
What about the insulated t-studs that Matt R. Likes?
@Fart Zilla why are they garbage? just because they are expensive? they eliminate thermal briding via the studs, make running wires and piping much easier and are stronger.
this is a really interesting and informative walkthrough, quality work. Really appreciate you sharing this. I'm curious as to how you would do this for 4 season living? Is the plumbing geared towards shore hook up use or are there holding tanks involved?
The plumbing is geared towards versatility. I set it up so I can change it to a variety of configurations easily.
Love your thought process, excellent delivery, consideration for building sci. You're doing such a great job. Couple of quick thoughts:
Plywood orientation on floor: I thought plywood puts each lamination perpendicular to the next, making it so the way you lay it doesn't matter unless you care to see the grain aesthetically.
PT floor plates: I hate PT and I have seen people just spray the lumber first with boracare (diluted 1:4 w/ water). I think the same concept of creating a capillary break between wood and concrete may apply here. Perhaps consider using 'sill seal' to break it from the trailer.
Width of trailer: I'm wondering if a 96" would be good followed by more 'perfect wall' concepts like you did on your roof. Exterior insulation with good drying potential like 1.5" of Rockwool comfortboard 80, wood fiber, or EPS, followed or preceded by a best in class WRB like Intello Mento or SIGA Majvest and a rainscreen.
And I love the window frame detail (5 degrees). Just a question, you must have to increase the vert dimension of the rough opening a bit right? Maybe an extra 1/8" - 1/4" measured from the front?
The Marvin Integrity windows are nice but I think double-hungs, just by design, leak a lot. I regret them in my larger house. There's manufacturers that sell swing/tilt windows that look like double-hungs. But I suppose being a tiny house, it's not so critical. Heating much less space so a little loss isn't the end of the world. Anyone living in one of these is drastically reducing their carbon footprint.
I admire everything you're doing. Such good work and thanks for sharing. Good stuff!
Thanks, agreed on the PT, wouldn't do it again. I generally feel pretty safe squeezing the vertical RO on a window, but definitely not horizontal. Interestingly I did all casement windows on my last house, and went back to double hung on purpose.
96 makes a lot of things easier, but man that extra 4 inches is nice. Going wide and low makes the house feel a lot bigger than it actually is, unlike most tiny houses that feel like narrow hallways. A lot of our dimensions were dictated by the space we need to get this thing in and out of the driveway and the space it needs to sit. Exterior rockwool is too heavy, and besides, it's not the insulation that's killing your efficiency in a tiny house it's the AIRFLOW. The ventilation rate needed to keep a tiny house with 2 people below 1000ppm CO2 just murders efficiency and unfortunately nobody makes a small HRV that doesn't suck!
So you recommend rock wool for the floor and ceiling but not walls?
oh I misunderstood, I was thinking that you were talking about a rockwool wrap like you see people doing sometimes these days where it goes on the outside of the sheathing behind the siding. That would add too much weight to a tiny house but for the interior of the sidewalls I definitely use Rockwool
Not sure what the OP was talking about but you've answered my question. Thanks!
@@actuallytiny2537 Yes I was talking about continuous insulation but your point about the weight is something I didn't think of. I personally have no issue with EPS foam. It's cheap, doesn't outgas CFC's slowly over 100 years, sometimes it can be obtained used, and it's vapor open. Have you tried Lunos for an HRV alternative? Curious how well it works.
thoughts re plumbing and electrical. I would put it outside the walls, reason is that if anything leaks etc would will find it quickly and reduce the damage to the construction and you can get to the area easier. You can hide it in various ways or show it off in a decorative way
one woman did that and then her water pipes froze and burst
@@genkiferal7178 not outside, still inside but not in the walls. That would make it much easier to get to the pipes and wires if anything needs fixing
@@TheLadySakai I guess if you used a shiny copper pipe it could be quite artistic. I've seen such pipes used as curtain rods, for faucets, as clothing rods and light fixtures. very very nice if one is able to get the shinier ones. A matching copper bathroom sink would be divine with those!
Copper prices might go through the roof soon, so if you find used pipes or fixtures, buy them now.
Wow. Dude you're a legend.
New subscriber! Very interesting and informative! Thanks for sharing this with us! Peace to all...💜💙💜
Is there an advantage to using metal stud framing? They are lighter weight, but less insulating.....
You should look into using SIPs. Built in structural insulation.
love the floor insulation, but i would of done 24" on center on the walls.
Would you frame more if you were putting in lofts? I really need strong lofts for my kids in mine, and I don't want to be worried when they try to get them of their friends up their to see their lofts. Like I want to be sure the structure is hefty and safe.
Hey do you think all the extra blocking between floor joists sort of negates the benefits of using 24" o.c. spacing?
Great video. Thank you.
@actuallytiny2537 I've watched this a couple times and found most of it great advise, but I'm truly curious where you got the info on the fibers of the plywood being stronger one way vs the other? The construction of the plywood and the reason it's so beneficial and sturdy is because each layer is rotated 90 degrees, so the fingers are running both lengthwise and widthwise so there isn't any noticable difference between the orientation of the board. Because the grains/fibers are perpendicular to each subsequent layer is what makes it stable and prevents it from moving
Brilliant window sill slope
i make the dobble top plade different, one flat and the 2nd sunk into the horisontal studs, its way stronger, for little ekstra work
Love it, be nice to incorporate more recycled materials ;) lotta resources used in all of that new material
Love it thanks for sharing ...
Great video!
A few things I'd have done differently...but that's life, right?
i got a crush on you after seconds. precis, to the point, easy, structured and handsome =) thank you!!!
I understand your point on the headers not being needed, but it still freaks me out. I’d probably have done at least a double 2x4 on edge header and put 1/2” of foam on the inside. Just me. Love the detail in planning!
Dude it's basically a shed. Lol. It doesn't have 10s of thousands of pounds to support
I would suggest notching the post to receive the beam and THEN bracketing them together. It would be a catastrophic failure if the trim 2x4 were removed by someone who was not aware of its structural purpose in the future. Additionally, those bracket screws create a line for splitting out that post when subjected to the bouncing going down the road. If the 2x4 trim is not exactly the same expansion/contraction/length required to mirror that of the post, I would be concerned fatigue over time would be a problem. Your design considered vertical loading but perhaps not the horizontal and twisting when the trailer is unevenly supported due to pot holes or other road debris which will apply torsional loading which could very well split that post. If however you had notched and glued the beam into the post with lag screws from the outside to pull and hold the beam into the post in addition to the bracket and the final 2x4 support, I think it would be a much stronger structure overall because it would eliminate the hinge effect which you currently have at that joint. Consider Japanese joinery wherein multi -story buildings have survived earthquakes and hurricanes for centuries without a single bracket or metal fastener.
this was good info, thanks
Good info. for builders who want to save both money and weight on their tiny house. I can't really argue with anything that you said. I would like to know what you are planning to use for the interior wall finish - drywall or plywood? I don't think drywall is suitable if this unit will be on the road a lot. Also I would use some 29 ga. diagonal galvanized metal strapping to the studs interior and exterior to stiffen the overall structure to road flexure as well as to wind resistance. I assume that all members and cladding are screwed together rather than nailed.
I designed the shape of this house with massive sheer panels so the whole thing sheathed with half inch ply ring nailed together and the continuous flat plane of the roof is probably going to be fine to deal with moving the house. If you’ve got good sheer strength sheet rock will hold up in a tiny house although probably not something that’s designed to be moved all the time. We also glued the sheer panels on in addition to the ring nails.
Excelent video, BUT: i think you can find a trailer that would allow you to remove the house from it in order to place it on a foundation after u finish building it so that you can creat a porch around and garden, etc...what abiut this aspect ?
This works where the biggest issue is the cold coming from the North, .if you moved further South where it gets hot from the South, you’d want to park the windowless wall to face South to exactly prevent thermal gain during hot days.