Just wanted to thank you after pointing me in the right direction when the battery in my wife's e bike refused to charge. I opened it up and checked the fuse to find that it had blown. We are on holiday at the moment so getting this working again has been very important. I didn't have a spare fuse and with nowhere here to buy one I used a single strand of thin copper wire to bridge the blown fuse. I know this may not be recommend but drastic measures were called for to get her back on the road again and I am happy that the wire is light enough to blow if there is another short circuit. I will replace with a new fuse as soon as we get home. I am still am puzzled as to what caused the fuse to blow. I wonder if a temporary short circuit could happen when plugging the charger into the battery while it is switched on. I will make sure the charger is switched off in future when I connect it to the battery - just in case. Thanks once again for the tips/advice.
A thin wire for an emergency fuse is ok to use on the charging circuit. If the charging port had a short circuit on it , it would almost certainly produce 10's of amps (enough to vaporise a thin wire). Be proud of your repair skills - not everyone would think to do this. As to the cause , I've heard of people sticking a key into the charging port (and therefore causing a short). However , for most of my years , I always connected the charging plug first followed by the mains plug. Recently , I followed some internet advice to plug into the mains first , followed by the charging plug (supposedly to equalise the voltage between battery and charger). Until I produced a huge spark on the charging port (perhaps I misaligned the mating parts) , since then I've gone back to my old ways. Have a good holiday.
Thank you, I found this video very helpful. I'm just plucking up the courage to have a look at my ebike battery which isn't charging! Liked and subscribed.
Great video! I was just about to give up, because my Engwe m20 battery was not charging too. When plug in the charger it just glows green and nothing happens. I quickly opened the battery and saw 2 fuses. One for input cables coming from the charging port and one for the output coming from the battery to the output plug. The charging fuse was blown, so I just changed it and now everything works again.
Hmmm have the same issue charger light goes straight to green on plugging in charger but battery isn't fully charged and ordered a new charger before having the pain of dismantling the battery just incase the charger is at fault. Happy days fingers crossed and great video by the way fella.
I'm hoping it's got the same little bms as this one on yours so i can at least try reset by unplugging it for a few minutes, that's my only hope as i certainly can't fit a new bms I'm just to knacked with the hands and eye coordination
I've had two ancheer e-bikes 36 volts which both had the same problem the battery would not charge. I put the battery in the Sun for about 10 minutes plugged in the charger now it charges I leave it in the sun till it's finished that's the only way I could charge my batteries now. And it works so give it a try before taking your battery apart
Ok. I have question. I have a 42 volt 1,000 watt hailing down tube battery . My battery stopped working on a ride. I came home and tried to charge it but it did nothing. I took the case off to find my ground wire running from the battery into the plug that connects everything had melted the plug together. I can probably replace the plug and fix the battery but I will need to clip the wires going into the plug from the battery. Which wire should I cut first positive or negative? Or is it safe to cut and put a new plug on? The rest of it looks fine. Just melted the plug.
There's no particular order to cutting the wires (it's not a bomb !!). A melted connector is either the metal terminals were loose or overcurrent. You will have about 30 amps on the connector. But all this doesn't affect the batterys' ability to charge.
I shouldn't have to show anyone how to use a voltmeter - that's a very basic function in problem solving. Grab a multimeter (or buy one first) , select the voltage range (DC in the case of batteries) and shove the probes into where the sparks output the battery !!!! As you have a new bike , first contact the seller (if possible) and explain your situation. If you are going to try and diagnose your battery / charger , check the battery voltage first , then measure the chargers' voltage (disconnected from the battery). For example , a 36 volt battery will require a 42 volt charger output. If the battery is showing low voltage (say 27 volts for a 36 volt pack) the charger may refuse to start charging until the battery reads over 30 volts. There may also be other communicattion between the charger and battery (such as temperature measurement etc). Also check that the battery isn't already full !! It has been known to happen ......... Good luck.
Hi great to see your knowledge. Was wondering if you could advise me plz my 48v 19amp/h battery is only 10 month old and 90 charges but Chinese not interested it charges to about 88-92% green light on charger comes on then off and charging then back on repeating but never fully charges could it be repairable? Thanks
I am thinking out loud here, but I am getting a new battery very soon similar case, I believe it is marked as a hailong Pro case, I am going 48v and upgrading my controller to a dual voltage spec and over volting the motor. However I still have 2x36v 10s4p dolphin case batteries, now I am considering selling them but they are 3 year old with approx 360+ cycles and over 5000 miles per unit, one is in good condition fully charged at 42v, I was wondering if I could swap the internals out and place it in a empty hailong case without messing with the connections except the power out to mount cables, is your case a "Pro", trying to find the internal measurements is a pain without purchasing a case and going in blind.
I don't know what case this one is - it's a customers' battery which was returned after I made the video. However,I probably have another on the bench which is the same. External dimensions are 360 mm length,90 mm width (side to side) and 90 mm deep. Subtract a few mm each side,and you'll have the internal size.
@@makeitwork7522 Thanks for that - I really appreciate the time and effort - the case I am looking at according to the supplier is a little bigger than that on all measurement and I may have found a cheaper alternative + it's the shape of the battery block in my dolphin case that could be an issue. I think it will be a shot in the dark experiment if I decide to try it. Once again thanks for the assist and the video was very informative.
If you’re buying a dual-potential controller which is overvolting the motor instead of limiting current, I’d add in a separate step down buck board unless you don’t mind replacing $300 hubs.
How did you work on it without shocking yourself? I was thinking maybe you had to remove the fuse to prevent shock but it looks like that isn't an issue.
It seems that you are confusing mains ac (house electricity) and low voltage dc. Mains ac WILL shock you , and WILL KILL YOU. Low voltage dc (36v in this case) will NOT shock you.
@@makeitwork7522 Thanks for the reply. Maybe it's not enough to kill but enough to feel it. When I try to use a multimeter to test the port, it creates a big spark. I need to replace the port. So when you are soldering the charge port, do you have to be ultra careful to not touch the red and black wire accidentally otherwise there is a big spark? I guess there is not a way to disable the power from the battery until after the soldering is done?
@@bguy1979 What you have done is create a short circuit where you connect (or bridge / short) the positive and negative wires with your meter probes - thereby causing a large current to flow (big spark). If I'm testing for voltage at the charge port , I NEVER use meter probes directly because the +ive and -ive are so close together. Plug a dc male plug into the socket and measure voltage on the inside of this plug - the contacts are further apart. Usually when the charge port is shorted out , the charge fuse also blows. And when soldering the port , do one wire at a time and heatshrink it before soldering the other one. To disable power to the charging port , simply remove the charging fuse (and remember to put it back when you're done !!)
I think u have misunderstood the whole thing about electricity. A 36v batter you will not feel by touching it. I have 52v and use bare hands on it. (When I had to open it) But remember that metals are conductive and that you do not want to touch the battery. Just the volt meters are fine. And as he says when solder u are extra careful because that’s metall.
Martin Newton Hi, I just found your video whilst searching a 48v battery issue. I am a Brit in Belize Central America, I am on an island off the mainland, so everything is DIY fixing ! Your video gave me the confidence to have a go .My issue is I have a 48v Chinese bike conversion that when fitted worked on its maiden voyage 10 miles brilliantly. When I came to charge it, it does not appear to be charging the battery. When charger is plugged in unconnected I get a green light, when connected I get a red light. I have a volt meter and when connected to the charger plug that plugs into the battery it reads fluctuating between 13 & 24 volts, the output should be 54.6 volts. When I read the bike connection terminals of the battery with the charger connected it also reads between 12 & 24 volts. If I leave the battery pin charge red light tags on and green does not appear. If I connect bike too battery whilst plugged into charger bike works, as soon as I un plug charger it does not. Is there any chances you can help me over email on sherlock349@yahoo.co.uk there are two red wires and 1 blue wire coming from bike connection side of battery, they are routed through a key switch. I have checked the fuse and it is good TIA any help appreciated.
If the bike only works with the charger connected , then the bike is powered by the charger only - not the battery. You probably have an issue with either the BMS , or some cells or even the keyswitch. Sounds like the charger is attempting to provide a charging voltage. Most likely , you will need to open the battery up to see what's going on.
Question PLEASE !! My Ancheer bike died after 2 weeks. The 4 battery slots are labeled + + - - so if I test 1 (red) and 4 (black) 54 volts, good. 1 and 3 are zero. 2 and 3 are zero and 2 and 4 are zero. That seems bad. Am I correct ?
Your voltage readings are ok , but it depends on how many wires are attached to your battery slot INSIDE the battery case. If you have only 2 wires inside (Red and Black , positive and negative ) then you will only read the pack voltage on 2 pins (1 and 4 in your case). If the battery doesn't work with a full voltage reading , then you may have other issues - BMS shutting down under load for example. Or a faulty controller / wiring issues etc.
The battery in the video didn't have a red power switch - only a mechanical keyswitch (not the type that switches the BMS on/off). Some electrical switches do turn the BMS on/off , but I don't know if it controls the charging side. Try charging the battery with the switch in different positions to find out.
Hello, great series on bike batteries thanks. Would it be possible to replace a OEM (Radrover) failed battery with a generic (say Hailong) with the same spec etc without an use / running issues? Also could you fix the original, uses the Panasonic 18650 cells?
Replacing a battery is no problem as long as the voltage is the same , capacity is the same (or greater) and the output connector is the same (with the BMS wired to it the same as the original battery). The original could be fixed - depends what's wrong with it. Dead cells or faulty BMS for example. It also depends if it's financially viable to repair it - many people just buy a new battery.
@@makeitwork7522 Thanks so much for the reply. The original stopped working quite suddenly some 6 months ago so maybe repair is a bit of a long shot. New means everything is just that!
@@makeitwork7522 I have a battery for about 2 months and it won't charge but I think its a port probably as it was charging and I noticed the charge light would charge like it had a bad connection. if it was bms how much is it to replace?
@@Darara1987 I would check the charging circuit first (wiring / joints / fuse) before suspecting the BMS. And check the charger obviously. Take the cases off and check the voltages on the large white connector going to the BMS. If all is ok , then replace the BMS. To replace the BMS only , I would charge £60 to £80. The price would depend on the need to change the balance connector (not all are the same).
@@makeitwork7522 OK thanks you for responding and I appreciate the information. Are you based in London as I would like to fix my battery as I've only had it for a short time so I think it would be worth fixing instead of buying a new one.
No . it isn't dangerous. The output terminals are well covered to prevent shorting. Some keyswitches turn off the BMS , and some are a mechanical lock only.
You left a battery outside in winter ? There could be many reasons for it's inoperation. Low cell voltage , BMS failure , water ingress , blown fuse etc
hi mate i have this exact same battery and i cleaned my bike and got water in the hole where the charger goes, i tried cleaning it out with a tiny flat screwdriver then it sparked and since then i am unable to charge it? i rhode it to work so it still works but i can't charge it at all, and the light just stays green? do you think i have the same issue?
You've probably shorted the charging connector,and as it's connected to the battery,it's most likely blown the fuse (as shown in the video). Open the cases and test/replace the fuse.The fuse in the video was 10 amp (Red) Good luck.
First of all, you’ll use compressed air or WD 40 next time. Second of all, having a fused input saved your bacon, but imo a bms which puts a voltage on a charge port with a current capable of damaging itself if shorted isn’t doing a proper job of input isolation, so fusing it is just says to me that the maker knew the design was half-baked from its inception.
I didn't look at the time,but it's a red blade fuse,so that would be 10 amps. The value is a little bit high for the charger output (again I didn't look because the charger was ok),but I'd assume the charger gives about 2 amps. Personally , I'd put a 5 amp fuse there.
@@makeitwork7522 ideal cheers after watching your video i thought i had the same problem but didnt have fuse i think its the bms but i think my battery has gone to low at 15 volts not sure a new bms is going to make a difference what do you think ?
@@johntaylor5941 If your battery is a 36volt one , and you've only got 15volt showing , you've got no chance of charging it with the original charger. Assuming it's a 10s configuration (10 cells in series) , then you've got an average of 1.5 volts per cell (or cells in parallel). I'm also assuming you have no dead cells in there. If there are no dead cells , it MAY be possible to revive the cells , but not with the original charger. It's unlikely to be a BMS problem , just run down cells.
Looks like you just soldered the wire to the post without putting it through the hole first. I would have thought putting a hook in the wire then through the hole on the pin before soldering would be the best way. Just my thoughts. 🙏
You are,of course,correct. It's just that I've always soldered this way (and not all terminals have an eye). If the wire was subjected to being pulled,then using the hole would add mechanical strength to the joint.
Hi, thanks for a great informative video. We run a family farm that relies heavily on our two ebikes, but even though I have no trouble with the mechanical maintenance, I’m at a loss with the electrics. Currently trying to solve a situation where the battery is reading 49v- it’s a 36v 17Ah lekkie battery, it runs the bike fine, but the bike lcd reads empty and switches off after running for 30sec. Otherwise battery seems fine, apart from it won’t charge, possibly because it is actually full.... any suggestions?
First thought is WOW - 49 volts !!! Are you sure that's correct ?? Assuming it's a lithium ion 36v battery - the maximum voltage should be 42 volts. I would measure the battery with a different voltmeter - I'm assuming you did measure it with a meter ? Or is the display showing 49 volts ? Check the battery voltage with a meter. Sounds like you have a faulty display if the bike runs ok.
I'm afraid I don't follow. In this case pressing the chargers' green light would do nothing - it had an internal open circuit. Be good if that kind of pressing the charger case worked ...............
@@makeitwork7522 was just trying to tell people, that alot of these chargers have an "on button", and its the green light on the charger that you have to actually press. people go to do a first charge and plug in charger and some of the chargers stay on a green light, and dont charge until the light is pressed. hope that makes sense.
@@bayronmora5908 Gracias. Yo entiendo quando escribe en Espanol. No tengo repuestas / partes por estos baterias , mas puedo repararlos. Mas , soy de Gales y esta de espana ?? Me disculpo por mi pobre espanol ........
@@makeitwork7522 Entiendo pues vieras que hace unos días compré una bici y tuve un accidente que hacemos barato una manilla de freno se me quemó el cargador y tengo que comprar una batería nueva
@@bayronmora5908 En que pais vive ?? Es muy dificil para mi entenderle. Dice que hecha una freno? Porque es importante por tema ?? Dice que ha quemado el cargador ?? Como sucedio eso ??
I have a 72v 48ah battery that wont take a charge. Battery is new and still has about 25% charge. Looking for someone with the tools and expertise to diagnose and fix issue. I have narrowed it down to charger issue, or charging port issue or battery management system. Must be able to get the necessary parts to make battery chargeable again. Will pay cash location Portland Maine
@@makeitwork7522 I hope so, I've called about every bike shop and hybrid vehicle shop I could find. Maybe this shoutout will get me in touch with someone who can help
I have checked the contiuity, and they're all responding. I don't know why the charging port is not showing any voltage. All the batteries are fine too.
@@ryutakeda7329 Not every charging port shows the battery voltage - depends on the BMS. Have you checked the charging fuse ???? If you have continuity to the battery (red) and to the board (BMS) , then it should charge. If it does not , then either the battery is already full or you have a faulty BMS. Or a faulty charger.
It depends on your location (I'm in North Wales). Most , if not all couriers will not accept ebike Lithium batteries to be transported. But then , most people lie about what's in the package !!
@@makeitwork7522 I'm next to leeds, and I can't tell if it's the battery or charger, the charger didn't work on other devices I have using the same port and the battery is completely flat how just bought this e bike second hand and been conned sold as new 1 day use
Anyone have any idea why a new hailong battery would only charge to 76% with a bbshd does it need a reset if so doea Anyone know how i do it thanks for any advice
I have the same symptoms: green light on charger when I know the battery is low. The lack of solder on that connection, is that usually the fault? Or is the fuse usually the culprit? Thank you. Regards, Mac
There are a few possibilities. Could be a blown fuse , no connection to the charging port , a faulty BMS or cells problems within the battery pack. You will need to open it up to investigate - it may be an easy fix.
I have had a Hailong 48V 11.5Ah for 6 months. Two days ago, I set mine to charg with at least 50-60% or more left on it. When I connected it to the bike, no response. I checked the voltage and the voltmeter says 0.009V, I don't know how it has managed to drain itself within a 24 hour period in the OFF position. It doesn't want to charge as the charger indicator stays green, and the battery level indicators doesn't show up. The eBay seller has told me not to open the battery as for warranty. Do you have any suggestions before I in case send it off to a repair?
If you have no output voltage , it does not mean that the whole battery pack has discharged. It could be a faulty BMS , or that one cell group has gone low voltage (this would prevent you charging the pack too). It could also be that the keyswitch is misbehaving. Some switch the BMS on/off - perhaps yours has a poor/no connection and so is permanently off regardless of the key position. And if it's under warranty , send it back to the seller.
@@makeitwork7522 I managed to solve it for now. I flicked the ON/OFF switch several times while checking the battery indicator and voltage. I charged with it ON and got 1.15V. Flicked OFF and ON and got 0.01V again. Flicked the switch again a couple of times and all of a sudden I got the indicators up and 54V with the voltmeter 😀
It's a sideline for me. I work for a battery company , and we have customers that drop in with these kinds of jobs. There's never any company time spare for repairs etc , therefore I take jobs home to do. If you have a battery that needs some attention , I would gladly investigate / repair it for you.
I’ve got similar problem... I’ll tell you all the story so you can maybe help me out on what I should do. I received my electric bike last week, used only twice since. Problem: 1 of the 4 green lights on the battery turned off, so I put the battery to charge and the light on the charger was showing green and 3 lights of the battery where turned on. So I unplug the battery from the charger (the charger still shows green even though there is nothing connected), I turned off the battery and plug the battery on the charger again. Same thing happens, only 3 green lights turn on and the charger light still shows green. so I turned off the battery while charging and after a few seconds 4 green lights flash on the battery, the charger light goes red and turns back to green and when I look to the battery one of lights of the battery is off. What could this be?
The charger will show a green light when it thinks the battery is full , or not connected to the battery. I did not see the green lights "flash" on the one in the video. If the charger light is a constant red , it should be charging. If it's only on red briefly and the battery is still not full , there may be a problem (like in the video) where the charging wire is not making constant contact. A voltmeter reading would help you find the problem (battery voltage too low , charger not working properly etc).
I’m supposing that since the charger and battery both have indicator lps , the battery’s fourth green lp is a combination overcharge plus status indicator light for convenience of people who are colorblind to the changes of color in the charger’s single lp. #4 may finally light up as the battery is conditioned and holds a surface charge longer -or remain mostly off until the battery starts going bad and tops off too quickly. You should contact the company for a link to the user’s manual in English before they change/supersede/deprecate that battery design
makeitwork I disagree. The OP didn’t express any problems therefore diagnostic procedures and diagnostic tools shouldn’t be applied. Also, since the bike is evidently new, taking potluck shots at complicated electronics armed with a new tool complete with conductive pokers and an unseasoned user is asking to have their warranty voided.
@@HighestRank The OP's comment - Problem: 1 of the 4 green lights on the battery turned off, so I put the battery to charge and the light on the charger was showing green and 3 lights of the battery where turned on. So I unplug the battery from the charger (the charger still shows green even though there is nothing connected), I turned off the battery and plug the battery on the charger again. Same thing happens, only 3 green lights turn on and the charger light still shows green. so I turned off the battery while charging and after a few seconds 4 green lights flash on the battery, the charger light goes red and turns back to green and when I look to the battery one of lights of the battery is off. The OP clearly states he has a "problem". I suggested he may have a charging issue if all the lights on the battery did not light , and that could be confirmed with a voltmeter - nothing more. Nothing I suggested would invalidate the warranty.
Can't even get the battery pack out of mine, some jerk has obviously put glue so now I'm gonna have to try smashing the case into pieces, what a fkn joke 😭
Try heating the outside of the case with a hot air gun / hot air paint stripper before taking an axe to the case. Getting it hot will soften some glues.
@@makeitwork7522 Can't believe I'd forgotten the old heat trick 👍🙏, she's out and I'm not happy, pathetic, I'm talking NO fuse, i accidentally shorted it out on a huge steel frame "had branch wires coming off the power lead for a spot light so it's my fault for having a dangling MALE" idiot me" deans connection which touched the frame and steel chain 🔗 as i was locking it up, got a BIG FLASH and i knew i was in trouble 😂, i haven't the eyesight to solder and disconnect the TINY SHITTY bms that i can feel sat on top "if it's got one i haven't cut open the blue shrink wrap yet, and no way its 13ah there's not enough cells 😒, it was a great battery charged upto 55v, i guess I'm screwed if there's no bms or fuse after such a massive short, I'm eventually gonna post you all my cells i have collected so you can build me a 60v 20ah 30amp pack 👍, I've talked with you before, if i recall you're in 🏴 right? Thanks for the reminder with the Heat for glue "layed it on radiator for an hour, some jerk had put Two white long double sided sticky pad strips on it 🙄had to really tug on it, never buying from this particular vendor on ebay again.
@@ianmangham4570 There probably is an output fuse - usually situated near the output connector. It's unlikely to be inside the blue wrapped cells. You will also have a BMS under the wrap which will have shut down after the short. It's doubtful that you've damaged the BMS unless it's a really crappy one.
@@makeitwork7522 No fuse at output, just pos and neg soldered to metal grid which slides onto backplate which fixes to the bike 🙄 same goes for backplate just pos and neg soldered with an xt60 connection on the other end, very odd as I've seen vids on here and can clearly see two fuses on output and charge point. Unbelievable bad luck, my only hope is i can unplug bms and that fixes it if it resets
@@makeitwork7522 YES, fixed it, i removed the bms plug and plugged the charger in, then soon as i attached it she started charging, ITS ALIVE IT'S ALIVE 😂, I'm so happy because i didn't want to spend £300 just before Christmas 🤶, MERRY XMAS 🇬🇧🙏
Great video! I was a bit worried about taking the battery apart, but Mine turned out to be a blown fuse. Replaced it, charges properly & working fine!
Just wanted to thank you after pointing me in the right direction when the battery in my wife's e bike refused to charge. I opened it up and checked the fuse to find that it had blown. We are on holiday at the moment so getting this working again has been very important. I didn't have a spare fuse and with nowhere here to buy one I used a single strand of thin copper wire to bridge the blown fuse. I know this may not be recommend but drastic measures were called for to get her back on the road again and I am happy that the wire is light enough to blow if there is another short circuit. I will replace with a new fuse as soon as we get home. I am still am puzzled as to what caused the fuse to blow. I wonder if a temporary short circuit could happen when plugging the charger into the battery while it is switched on. I will make sure the charger is switched off in future when I connect it to the battery - just in case. Thanks once again for the tips/advice.
A thin wire for an emergency fuse is ok to use on the charging circuit.
If the charging port had a short circuit on it , it would almost certainly produce 10's of amps (enough to vaporise a thin wire).
Be proud of your repair skills - not everyone would think to do this.
As to the cause , I've heard of people sticking a key into the charging port (and therefore causing a short).
However , for most of my years , I always connected the charging plug first followed by the mains plug.
Recently , I followed some internet advice to plug into the mains first , followed by the charging plug (supposedly to equalise the voltage between battery and charger).
Until I produced a huge spark on the charging port (perhaps I misaligned the mating parts) , since then I've gone back to my old ways.
Have a good holiday.
Liking the break down before looking to BMS and Cells nice one keep the Vids coming
Plenty more vids on my channel .............
Thank you, I found this video very helpful. I'm just plucking up the courage to have a look at my ebike battery which isn't charging! Liked and subscribed.
Very kind of you.
Thanks for the comment.
Great video! I was just about to give up, because my Engwe m20 battery was not charging too. When plug in the charger it just glows green and nothing happens. I quickly opened the battery and saw 2 fuses. One for input cables coming from the charging port and one for the output coming from the battery to the output plug. The charging fuse was blown, so I just changed it and now everything works again.
Good lad.
Great Video I learned so much! Thank you
My one work charge, I mean the green light is on but won’t charge so the red light won’t show ??
If the green light is on , then it's not charging,
@@makeitwork7522 Any idea what the problem is?
@@TheLondonTransportDroid
Check the fuse and the internal wiring (as shown in the video).
If those are ok,then you may have a BMS or cell issue.
Hmmm have the same issue charger light goes straight to green on plugging in charger but battery isn't fully charged and ordered a new charger before having the pain of dismantling the battery just incase the charger is at fault. Happy days fingers crossed and great video by the way fella.
Glad to help
Was the charger the issue or was it the battery?
What happened
I'm hoping it's got the same little bms as this one on yours so i can at least try reset by unplugging it for a few minutes, that's my only hope as i certainly can't fit a new bms I'm just to knacked with the hands and eye coordination
I've had two ancheer e-bikes 36 volts which both had the same problem the battery would not charge. I put the battery in the Sun for about 10 minutes plugged in the charger now it charges I leave it in the sun till it's finished that's the only way I could charge my batteries now. And it works so give it a try before taking your battery apart
Interesting.
However , in my case , it's doubtful that sunshine could repair a non-soldered wire.
hi, can you please confirm whether this battery is 10s5p?
To be honest, I don't remember.
If the video doesn't show it, it's either a 4P or 5P
Ok. I have question. I have a 42 volt 1,000 watt hailing down tube battery . My battery stopped working on a ride. I came home and tried to charge it but it did nothing. I took the case off to find my ground wire running from the battery into the plug that connects everything had melted the plug together. I can probably replace the plug and fix the battery but I will need to clip the wires going into the plug from the battery. Which wire should I cut first positive or negative? Or is it safe to cut and put a new plug on? The rest of it looks fine. Just melted the plug.
There's no particular order to cutting the wires (it's not a bomb !!).
A melted connector is either the metal terminals were loose or overcurrent.
You will have about 30 amps on the connector.
But all this doesn't affect the batterys' ability to charge.
@@makeitwork7522 actually I found that you want to disconnect the ground first. Less chance of an arc. Then reverse the process to connect it.
@@psychopete3848
Ah.
Fair enough.
I have that same problem..I Am going to try your method...
Does the green dots on the battery turn off when u plug the cable into the battery?
Do you mean the battery gauge ??
Be great if you could quickly show how to use a voltmeter :) Great video. I have a brand new ebike and the battery isnt charging.
I shouldn't have to show anyone how to use a voltmeter - that's a very basic function in problem solving.
Grab a multimeter (or buy one first) , select the voltage range (DC in the case of batteries) and shove the probes into where the sparks output the battery !!!!
As you have a new bike , first contact the seller (if possible) and explain your situation.
If you are going to try and diagnose your battery / charger , check the battery voltage first , then measure the chargers' voltage (disconnected from the battery).
For example , a 36 volt battery will require a 42 volt charger output.
If the battery is showing low voltage (say 27 volts for a 36 volt pack) the charger may refuse to start charging until the battery reads over 30 volts.
There may also be other communicattion between the charger and battery (such as temperature measurement etc).
Also check that the battery isn't already full !!
It has been known to happen .........
Good luck.
same here. one month old ancheer bike. I don't know what to do for repair or warranty.
Hi great to see your knowledge. Was wondering if you could advise me plz my 48v 19amp/h battery is only 10 month old and 90 charges but Chinese not interested it charges to about 88-92% green light on charger comes on then off and charging then back on repeating but never fully charges could it be repairable? Thanks
If it charges to 90% then it sounds ok to me.
If it only runs for one mile , then there's a problem.
I am thinking out loud here, but I am getting a new battery very soon similar case, I believe it is marked as a hailong Pro case, I am going 48v and upgrading my controller to a dual voltage spec and over volting the motor. However I still have 2x36v 10s4p dolphin case batteries, now I am considering selling them but they are 3 year old with approx 360+ cycles and over 5000 miles per unit, one is in good condition fully charged at 42v, I was wondering if I could swap the internals out and place it in a empty hailong case without messing with the connections except the power out to mount cables, is your case a "Pro", trying to find the internal measurements is a pain without purchasing a case and going in blind.
I don't know what case this one is - it's a customers' battery which was returned after I made the video.
However,I probably have another on the bench which is the same.
External dimensions are 360 mm length,90 mm width (side to side) and 90 mm deep.
Subtract a few mm each side,and you'll have the internal size.
@@makeitwork7522 Thanks for that - I really appreciate the time and effort - the case I am looking at according to the supplier is a little bigger than that on all measurement and I may have found a cheaper alternative + it's the shape of the battery block in my dolphin case that could be an issue. I think it will be a shot in the dark experiment if I decide to try it. Once again thanks for the assist and the video was very informative.
If you’re buying a dual-potential controller which is overvolting the motor instead of limiting current, I’d add in a separate step down buck board unless you don’t mind replacing $300 hubs.
How did you work on it without shocking yourself? I was thinking maybe you had to remove the fuse to prevent shock but it looks like that isn't an issue.
It seems that you are confusing mains ac (house electricity) and low voltage dc.
Mains ac WILL shock you , and WILL KILL YOU.
Low voltage dc (36v in this case) will NOT shock you.
@@makeitwork7522 Thanks for the reply. Maybe it's not enough to kill but enough to feel it. When I try to use a multimeter to test the port, it creates a big spark. I need to replace the port. So when you are soldering the charge port, do you have to be ultra careful to not touch the red and black wire accidentally otherwise there is a big spark? I guess there is not a way to disable the power from the battery until after the soldering is done?
@@bguy1979
What you have done is create a short circuit where you connect (or bridge / short) the positive and negative wires with your meter probes - thereby causing a large current to flow (big spark).
If I'm testing for voltage at the charge port , I NEVER use meter probes directly because the +ive and -ive are so close together.
Plug a dc male plug into the socket and measure voltage on the inside of this plug - the contacts are further apart.
Usually when the charge port is shorted out , the charge fuse also blows.
And when soldering the port , do one wire at a time and heatshrink it before soldering the other one.
To disable power to the charging port , simply remove the charging fuse (and remember to put it back when you're done !!)
I think u have misunderstood the whole thing about electricity. A 36v batter you will not feel by touching it. I have 52v and use bare hands on it. (When I had to open it)
But remember that metals are conductive and that you do not want to touch the battery. Just the volt meters are fine. And as he says when solder u are extra careful because that’s metall.
Martin Newton
Hi, I just found your video whilst searching a 48v battery issue. I am a Brit in Belize Central America, I am on an island off the mainland, so everything is DIY fixing ! Your video gave me the confidence to have a go .My issue is I have a 48v Chinese bike conversion that when fitted worked on its maiden voyage 10 miles brilliantly. When I came to charge it, it does not appear to be charging the battery. When charger is plugged in unconnected I get a green light, when connected I get a red light. I have a volt meter and when connected to the charger plug that plugs into the battery it reads fluctuating between 13 & 24 volts, the output should be 54.6 volts. When I read the bike connection terminals of the battery with the charger connected it also reads between 12 & 24 volts. If I leave the battery pin charge red light tags on and green does not appear. If I connect bike too battery whilst plugged into charger bike works, as soon as I un plug charger it does not. Is there any chances you can help me over email on sherlock349@yahoo.co.uk there are two red wires and 1 blue wire coming from bike connection side of battery, they are routed through a key switch. I have checked the fuse and it is good TIA any help appreciated.
If the bike only works with the charger connected , then the bike is powered by the charger only - not the battery.
You probably have an issue with either the BMS , or some cells or even the keyswitch.
Sounds like the charger is attempting to provide a charging voltage.
Most likely , you will need to open the battery up to see what's going on.
Question PLEASE !! My Ancheer bike died after 2 weeks. The 4 battery slots are labeled
+ + - - so if I test 1 (red) and 4 (black) 54 volts, good. 1 and 3 are zero. 2 and 3 are zero and 2 and 4 are zero. That seems bad. Am I correct ?
Your voltage readings are ok , but it depends on how many wires are attached to your battery slot INSIDE the battery case.
If you have only 2 wires inside (Red and Black , positive and negative ) then you will only read the pack voltage on 2 pins (1 and 4 in your case).
If the battery doesn't work with a full voltage reading , then you may have other issues - BMS shutting down under load for example.
Or a faulty controller / wiring issues etc.
I have a Hailong 52v Battery. does the Red power switch on the battery need to be ON to charge it ? or OFF ? or does it matter ?
The battery in the video didn't have a red power switch - only a mechanical keyswitch (not the type that switches the BMS on/off).
Some electrical switches do turn the BMS on/off , but I don't know if it controls the charging side.
Try charging the battery with the switch in different positions to find out.
my prodeco mariner 8 battery 36V got soaked in the rain and stopped working. Any chance to save it and how to do it? Still keeping on rice
You will need to open the battery and dry the insides (and hope that no real damage has been done by the water.
@@makeitwork7522 thank you so much, I opened it and dried droplets, battery was in perfect condition, still no sign of working, thanks though
Hello, great series on bike batteries thanks. Would it be possible to replace a OEM (Radrover) failed battery with a generic (say Hailong) with the same spec etc without an use / running issues? Also could you fix the original, uses the Panasonic 18650 cells?
Replacing a battery is no problem as long as the voltage is the same , capacity is the same (or greater) and the output connector is the same (with the BMS wired to it the same as the original battery).
The original could be fixed - depends what's wrong with it.
Dead cells or faulty BMS for example.
It also depends if it's financially viable to repair it - many people just buy a new battery.
@@makeitwork7522 Thanks so much for the reply. The original stopped working quite suddenly some 6 months ago so maybe repair is a bit of a long shot. New means everything is just that!
Hi I'm wondering how much is it to fix a battery of same kind and size if you have worst case scenario?
Worst case scenario is if you have to replace all the cells and the BMS.
Cheaper to buy a new battery.
@@makeitwork7522 I have a battery for about 2 months and it won't charge but I think its a port probably as it was charging and I noticed the charge light would charge like it had a bad connection. if it was bms how much is it to replace?
@@Darara1987
I would check the charging circuit first (wiring / joints / fuse) before suspecting the BMS.
And check the charger obviously.
Take the cases off and check the voltages on the large white connector going to the BMS.
If all is ok , then replace the BMS.
To replace the BMS only , I would charge £60 to £80.
The price would depend on the need to change the balance connector (not all are the same).
@@makeitwork7522 OK thanks you for responding and I appreciate the information. Are you based in London as I would like to fix my battery as I've only had it for a short time so I think it would be worth fixing instead of buying a new one.
@@Darara1987
A long way from London I'm afraid (North Wales)
I have a different problem with its 650 battery , I can't turn mine OFF , IS THAT DANGEROUS ?
No . it isn't dangerous.
The output terminals are well covered to prevent shorting.
Some keyswitches turn off the BMS , and some are a mechanical lock only.
hi, i kept my ebike outside during winter time, now i tried turning it On but its not working, What should i do?
You left a battery outside in winter ?
There could be many reasons for it's inoperation.
Low cell voltage , BMS failure , water ingress , blown fuse etc
@@makeitwork7522 unfortunately I did
Hi I have the same battery which has developed a fault, do you do a repair service . Les
I can repair these.
If you want to send me an email ?
garethem1@sky.com
So they just glued that connection on at the factory ? That could have shorted out and caused a fire.
Doubtful that it would cause a short - it was securely glued in place and isolated from any other potential problem.
do you know how to take the speed limiter off this for an ebike?
Afraid not.
There's no limiter in the battery,only the controller.
hi mate i have this exact same battery and i cleaned my bike and got water in the hole where the charger goes, i tried cleaning it out with a tiny flat screwdriver then it sparked and since then i am unable to charge it? i rhode it to work so it still works but i can't charge it at all, and the light just stays green? do you think i have the same issue?
You've probably shorted the charging connector,and as it's connected to the battery,it's most likely blown the fuse (as shown in the video).
Open the cases and test/replace the fuse.The fuse in the video was 10 amp (Red)
Good luck.
@@makeitwork7522 thankyou man did the above and it's charging on red now, seriously mate your video has saved my bacon, i can get to work now dude
@@longbowandwarbowcraftingbo2859 A pleasure .....
First of all, you’ll use compressed air or WD 40 next time. Second of all, having a fused input saved your bacon, but imo a bms which puts a voltage on a charge port with a current capable of damaging itself if shorted isn’t doing a proper job of input isolation, so fusing it is just says to me that the maker knew the design was half-baked from its inception.
hi makeitwork what fuse was that on the battery as i would like to add one ?
I didn't look at the time,but it's a red blade fuse,so that would be 10 amps.
The value is a little bit high for the charger output (again I didn't look because the charger was ok),but I'd assume the charger gives about 2 amps.
Personally , I'd put a 5 amp fuse there.
@@makeitwork7522 ideal cheers after watching your video i thought i had the same problem but didnt have fuse i think its the bms but i think my battery has gone to low at 15 volts not sure a new bms is going to make a difference what do you think ?
@@johntaylor5941 If your battery is a 36volt one , and you've only got 15volt showing , you've got no chance of charging it with the original charger.
Assuming it's a 10s configuration (10 cells in series) , then you've got an average of 1.5 volts per cell (or cells in parallel).
I'm also assuming you have no dead cells in there.
If there are no dead cells , it MAY be possible to revive the cells , but not with the original charger.
It's unlikely to be a BMS problem , just run down cells.
Looks like you just soldered the wire to the post without putting it through the hole first. I would have thought putting a hook in the wire then through the hole on the pin before soldering would be the best way.
Just my thoughts. 🙏
You are,of course,correct.
It's just that I've always soldered this way (and not all terminals have an eye).
If the wire was subjected to being pulled,then using the hole would add mechanical strength to the joint.
⚠️ WARNING!!! ANCHEER WILL NOT HONOR ITS WARRANTIES!!! IF YOU INVEST IN THIS COMPANY YOU ARE ON YOUR!! WARNING!!! ⚠️
Hi, thanks for a great informative video. We run a family farm that relies heavily on our two ebikes, but even though I have no trouble with the mechanical maintenance, I’m at a loss with the electrics. Currently trying to solve a situation where the battery is reading 49v- it’s a 36v 17Ah lekkie battery, it runs the bike fine, but the bike lcd reads empty and switches off after running for 30sec. Otherwise battery seems fine, apart from it won’t charge, possibly because it is actually full.... any suggestions?
First thought is WOW - 49 volts !!!
Are you sure that's correct ??
Assuming it's a lithium ion 36v battery - the maximum voltage should be 42 volts.
I would measure the battery with a different voltmeter - I'm assuming you did measure it with a meter ?
Or is the display showing 49 volts ?
Check the battery voltage with a meter.
Sounds like you have a faulty display if the bike runs ok.
excellent video
Alot of those chargers you press the green light and it turns red to charge the battery.
I'm afraid I don't follow.
In this case pressing the chargers' green light would do nothing - it had an internal open circuit.
Be good if that kind of pressing the charger case worked ...............
@@makeitwork7522 was just trying to tell people, that alot of these chargers have an "on button", and its the green light on the charger that you have to actually press. people go to do a first charge and plug in charger and some of the chargers stay on a green light, and dont charge until the light is pressed. hope that makes sense.
@@hullebikerfishing
Ah ! Now I see what you mean.
I'll look out for this next time.
Thanks for the comment.
I have a problem with a bicycle?
Pardon ??
Quisiera saber dónde puedo conseguir unos respuestos y alguien que la reparen
@@bayronmora5908
Gracias.
Yo entiendo quando escribe en Espanol.
No tengo repuestas / partes por estos baterias , mas puedo repararlos.
Mas , soy de Gales y esta de espana ??
Me disculpo por mi pobre espanol ........
@@makeitwork7522 Entiendo pues vieras que hace unos días compré una bici y tuve un accidente que hacemos barato una manilla de freno se me quemó el cargador y tengo que comprar una batería nueva
@@bayronmora5908
En que pais vive ??
Es muy dificil para mi entenderle.
Dice que hecha una freno?
Porque es importante por tema ??
Dice que ha quemado el cargador ??
Como sucedio eso ??
I have the same issue with my battery if I give my battery to you can you fix it please
If you're in the UK, I can fix it for you.
@@makeitwork7522 yeah understand mate where you based
@@makeitwork7522 yeah I’m based in uk London
@@makeitwork7522 Walthamstow east London send me your number I’ll call you in a bit to discuss more about my issue with my battery cheers
@@blazeofficialoneseven8683
If you send me an e mail , I will send you my phone number.
garethem1@sky.com
I have a 72v 48ah battery that wont take a charge. Battery is new and still has about 25% charge. Looking for someone with the tools and expertise to diagnose and fix issue. I have narrowed it down to charger issue, or charging port issue or battery management system. Must be able to get the necessary parts to make battery chargeable again. Will pay cash location Portland Maine
You're about 3000 miles away from me I'm afraid.
Perhaps someone in the USA can help ??
@@makeitwork7522 I hope so, I've called about every bike shop and hybrid vehicle shop I could find. Maybe this shoutout will get me in touch with someone who can help
I have checked the contiuity, and they're all responding. I don't know why the charging port is not showing any voltage. All the batteries are fine too.
If there's no voltage coming out of the charging port the charger won't accept it, right?
@@ryutakeda7329
Not every charging port shows the battery voltage - depends on the BMS.
Have you checked the charging fuse ????
If you have continuity to the battery (red) and to the board (BMS) , then it should charge.
If it does not , then either the battery is already full or you have a faulty BMS.
Or a faulty charger.
Could I send my battery to you for a repair?
It depends on your location (I'm in North Wales).
Most , if not all couriers will not accept ebike Lithium batteries to be transported.
But then , most people lie about what's in the package !!
@@makeitwork7522 I'm next to leeds, and I can't tell if it's the battery or charger, the charger didn't work on other devices I have using the same port and the battery is completely flat how just bought this e bike second hand and been conned sold as new 1 day use
@@16094s
If you can get the battery to me , I would be happy to look at it for you.
@@makeitwork7522 do you have an email I can discuss it further on with you please
@@16094s
Send it to garethem1@sky.com
Anyone have any idea why a new hailong battery would only charge to 76% with a bbshd does it need a reset if so doea Anyone know how i do it thanks for any advice
Sounds as if you have a faulty cell group (or two).
Or a faulty charger ?
Very unlikely to be the BMS.
@@makeitwork7522 thnx
Let me know how much and I’ll pay
I have the same symptoms: green light on charger when I know the battery is low. The lack of solder on that connection, is that usually the fault? Or is the fuse usually the culprit?
Thank you.
Regards,
Mac
There are a few possibilities.
Could be a blown fuse , no connection to the charging port , a faulty BMS or cells problems within the battery pack.
You will need to open it up to investigate - it may be an easy fix.
Cool video, can I hear a North Wales accent there?
Damn it , I've been found out ...............
@@makeitwork7522 I'm from North Wales myself.
I have had a Hailong 48V 11.5Ah for 6 months. Two days ago, I set mine to charg with at least 50-60% or more left on it. When I connected it to the bike, no response.
I checked the voltage and the voltmeter says 0.009V, I don't know how it has managed to drain itself within a 24 hour period in the OFF position. It doesn't want to charge as the charger indicator stays green, and the battery level indicators doesn't show up.
The eBay seller has told me not to open the battery as for warranty.
Do you have any suggestions before I in case send it off to a repair?
If you have no output voltage , it does not mean that the whole battery pack has discharged.
It could be a faulty BMS , or that one cell group has gone low voltage (this would prevent you charging the pack too).
It could also be that the keyswitch is misbehaving.
Some switch the BMS on/off - perhaps yours has a poor/no connection and so is permanently off regardless of the key position.
And if it's under warranty , send it back to the seller.
@@makeitwork7522 I managed to solve it for now. I flicked the ON/OFF switch several times while checking the battery indicator and voltage.
I charged with it ON and got 1.15V. Flicked OFF and ON and got 0.01V again. Flicked the switch again a couple of times and all of a sudden I got the indicators up and 54V with the voltmeter 😀
Is this something of a hobby or your business. I have an ebike battery that I think has a bad cell and needs testing.
It's a sideline for me.
I work for a battery company , and we have customers that drop in with these kinds of jobs.
There's never any company time spare for repairs etc , therefore I take jobs home to do.
If you have a battery that needs some attention , I would gladly investigate / repair it for you.
I’ve got similar problem... I’ll tell you all the story so you can maybe help me out on what I should do.
I received my electric bike last week, used only twice since.
Problem:
1 of the 4 green lights on the battery turned off, so I put the battery to charge and the light on the charger was showing green and 3 lights of the battery where turned on. So I unplug the battery from the charger (the charger still shows green even though there is nothing connected), I turned off the battery and plug the battery on the charger again. Same thing happens, only 3 green lights turn on and the charger light still shows green. so I turned off the battery while charging and after a few seconds 4 green lights flash on the battery, the charger light goes red and turns back to green and when I look to the battery one of lights of the battery is off.
What could this be?
The charger will show a green light when it thinks the battery is full , or not connected to the battery.
I did not see the green lights "flash" on the one in the video.
If the charger light is a constant red , it should be charging.
If it's only on red briefly and the battery is still not full , there may be a problem (like in the video) where the charging wire is not making constant contact.
A voltmeter reading would help you find the problem (battery voltage too low , charger not working properly etc).
I’m supposing that since the charger and battery both have indicator lps , the battery’s fourth green lp is a combination overcharge plus status indicator light for convenience of people who are colorblind to the changes of color in the charger’s single lp. #4 may finally light up as the battery is conditioned and holds a surface charge longer -or remain mostly off until the battery starts going bad and tops off too quickly. You should contact the company for a link to the user’s manual in English before they change/supersede/deprecate that battery design
makeitwork I disagree. The OP didn’t express any problems therefore diagnostic procedures and diagnostic tools shouldn’t be applied. Also, since the bike is evidently new, taking potluck shots at complicated electronics armed with a new tool complete with conductive pokers and an unseasoned user is asking to have their warranty voided.
@@HighestRank The OP's comment -
Problem:
1 of the 4 green lights on the battery turned off, so I put the battery to charge and the light on the charger was showing green and 3 lights of the battery where turned on. So I unplug the battery from the charger (the charger still shows green even though there is nothing connected), I turned off the battery and plug the battery on the charger again. Same thing happens, only 3 green lights turn on and the charger light still shows green. so I turned off the battery while charging and after a few seconds 4 green lights flash on the battery, the charger light goes red and turns back to green and when I look to the battery one of lights of the battery is off.
The OP clearly states he has a "problem".
I suggested he may have a charging issue if all the lights on the battery did not light , and that could be confirmed with a voltmeter - nothing more.
Nothing I suggested would invalidate the warranty.
I Don’t Use BMS. Use Balance Charger. Guarantee One Of Those Cell Groups IS Way Off. I Can Smell The Chinese Soldier Job. And Hot Glue.
I have a battery I want you repair it
If you are in the UK (and I assume that you are) , then I can take a look at the battery for you.
@@makeitwork7522 I am in Italy
@@ahmadabbas5500
Unfortunately posting to or from Italy is very expensive or impossible.
@@makeitwork7522 thank you so much
@@makeitwork7522 can I post my charger to you. I’m in uk
Bosch 36v
Can't even get the battery pack out of mine, some jerk has obviously put glue so now I'm gonna have to try smashing the case into pieces, what a fkn joke 😭
Try heating the outside of the case with a hot air gun / hot air paint stripper before taking an axe to the case.
Getting it hot will soften some glues.
@@makeitwork7522 Can't believe I'd forgotten the old heat trick 👍🙏, she's out and I'm not happy, pathetic, I'm talking NO fuse, i accidentally shorted it out on a huge steel frame "had branch wires coming off the power lead for a spot light so it's my fault for having a dangling MALE" idiot me" deans connection which touched the frame and steel chain 🔗 as i was locking it up, got a BIG FLASH and i knew i was in trouble 😂, i haven't the eyesight to solder and disconnect the TINY SHITTY bms that i can feel sat on top "if it's got one i haven't cut open the blue shrink wrap yet, and no way its 13ah there's not enough cells 😒, it was a great battery charged upto 55v, i guess I'm screwed if there's no bms or fuse after such a massive short, I'm eventually gonna post you all my cells i have collected so you can build me a 60v 20ah 30amp pack 👍, I've talked with you before, if i recall you're in 🏴 right? Thanks for the reminder with the Heat for glue "layed it on radiator for an hour, some jerk had put Two white long double sided sticky pad strips on it 🙄had to really tug on it, never buying from this particular vendor on ebay again.
@@ianmangham4570
There probably is an output fuse - usually situated near the output connector.
It's unlikely to be inside the blue wrapped cells.
You will also have a BMS under the wrap which will have shut down after the short.
It's doubtful that you've damaged the BMS unless it's a really crappy one.
@@makeitwork7522 No fuse at output, just pos and neg soldered to metal grid which slides onto backplate which fixes to the bike 🙄 same goes for backplate just pos and neg soldered with an xt60 connection on the other end, very odd as I've seen vids on here and can clearly see two fuses on output and charge point. Unbelievable bad luck, my only hope is i can unplug bms and that fixes it if it resets
@@makeitwork7522 YES, fixed it, i removed the bms plug and plugged the charger in, then soon as i attached it she started charging, ITS ALIVE IT'S ALIVE 😂, I'm so happy because i didn't want to spend £300 just before Christmas 🤶, MERRY XMAS 🇬🇧🙏
....Shhhhhhh be quiet.... shhhhh...