Had this same issue happen to me when I had my Glock 48 MOS. Turns out the issue was that when I mounted my red dot, the screw on the right side was longer than then screw on the left. The screw on the right would impede on the ejector spring and the ejector it self. I was at my local indoor range and no one in the range including the Glock armorer knew what was going on. I stepped back and took a good look after it jammed up again. Thats when I noticed that my ejector was sticking out way too far. I took off the red dot and the slide and did a thorough inspection that’s when I noticed that the screws were two different sizes. Good thing I had extra screws from the red dot (Holosun 507K) and that’s where my problem ended. I switched the screws from left to right and right to left and that solved the issue. Now in your case, I heard you state that you took off the red dot and the issue still exists. If your issue was the same as mine I could only suggest that you remove the ejector and inspect it and the area. Make sure it’s not any lubricants, burrs or any damage to the ejector spring. Re install the ejector and try at it again. Keep us posted on the issue as I’m looking into getting a 34 or 17L myself. Or maybe both. Would be nice to know what to inspect to prevent this same issue from happening.
On the 17L at no point does the wholes for the RMR go into the channel for the extractor, from what I can tell the spring is to stiff for the slide. I’ve never had this problem at all with any of my Glocks before so this is a first for me.
Whenever you add weight to your slide, you are impeding the action to the design of your handgun!! The slide is designed with the weight of the slide in mind. Its the fault of the added weight/modification, not the gun. Dont send it to glock, just dont modify the gun when it was designed to operate without that added weight.
I talked to a Glock tech, and they advised that the 17L needs about a 200 round break in shooting NATO pressured rounds, before it will be reliable with 115 gr. range ammo.
That slide size might need more break in since the did mill the window in the top of the slides like they did with the gen 3s. Still ridulous to do a 200 rnd break in.
there was once a time that guns didnt require a "break In" period. Thats where hand finishing and fitment comes in which is now a step companies skip everytime. Its time to bring it back, if the gun isnt smooth and ready to go from factory they shouldnt release it,
Had this happen with a 43x years back. Found out it was actually the magazine springs. Let them sit fully load for 2 weeks and it never happened again. Guessing they were too stiff. But idk about this one
I have one, got it last Sunday. It runs like a watch. I did completely strip it, replaced the trigger with the Glock performance one, added lube to the slide. But that is basic stuff. Clean, well lubed during break in and quality ammo (Wilson Combat is what I shoot). Additionally, I have not added a red dot yet, I have an SRO ready to go but I want to run 1000+ rounds thru it before I go MOS.
Interesting. I’ve done all of them but I also shot mine without optic and it still done this. Makes me reconsidering buying it. Idk why they would have made it MOS if it can’t run with an optic without having to use +P ammo
Same exact issue on my new 34. Exactly what you are experiencing and as a former LEO totally familiar with Glocks…own several. Was getting double feeds…stove pipes…failures to extract…jams on a new 34. That was initially. Yes the 34. Was disappointing. Tried different magazines etc. I was recommended to keep shooting 200 rounds….higher compression grains. Eventually all working well. Went from 115 grain to 124. Cleared up after 300 rounds or so…I only use 124 and up.. Another recommendation was to not use the slide release button but slap in the magazine hard and the manually rack the slide to load. By using the slide release button, the ammo wasn’t sitting properly. Try that method as well. Good luck…hope to hear back.
We just switched from Glock 22 Gen 4 in late 2022 to Glock 34 Gen 5 at my department. I’m the armorer and weapons instructor and we never had a single problem out of any of the 34s we issued out. If I had to go to war today and was given an option on any pistol I could take it would be with my Glock 34. That being said, hopefully this 17L will work its way out before to long.
Hard to tell without lookin over in person, but I would look at a rough chamber or possibly an out of whack extractor that's either out of spec or over tensioned and not letting the case ride up in line with the chamber and putting stress on it when extracting as well. Those newer gen5s have really tight breach face tolerances compared to past generations
The brass that’s extracted also has large markings from something scratching it while loading or extracting from the barrel. Interested to see what Glock says
I was thinking the same thing,I've received 2 Glocks with really tight chambers like really tight ,I thought it was recoil spring then changed the ejector and extractor twice and then to find out the chamber was way to tight,it's actually somewhat common for Glocks for some reason
Glock 21 back in 1996 was my first pistol and worked flawlessly. Bought a G22 in 2014 (in Knoxville BTW), and it was a jam-o-matic for me. I sold it back to the dealer. Since then I’ve stuck with Colt 1911s & S&W M&P9s.
Glock has never had a great track record with the 40 Cal’s. I had a Glock 22 for my duty weapon and never had a problem out of it. Also had a Glock 27 40 cal and it was a piece of crap. Who knows
That's frustrating. It may just need some breaking in. I've had everything from G17 to G19 to G34 and other models and never had any problems with them. Only Glock I did have a problem with was a Gen 5 G26. It did pretty much the same exact thing yours is doing now. Everybody said I was limp wristing it but I didn't think that was my problem. Took awhile but it did eventually break in. I would leave the slide locked back and the mags loaded. I was wanting to send it in to Glock for them to look at it but I talked to a tech for a little bit and he said the Gen 5's are tighter and that the G26's usually need some breaking in. He recommended leaving the slide locked back when not in use and to keep the mags loaded to help everything break in. So far it's been running good.
Had that exact same thing with my Glock 26 GEN 5! After some lubricate and 50 rounds i never had any issue with it again. I’ve limped wrist it on purpose the other day at the range and only got one malfunction again
That's good. Yeah I don't know why but mine needed quite a few hundred rounds before it started working correctly. Once it broke in and I trusted it, it became my favorite conceal carry. The short grip really helps in concealing.@@MidsBeHittin
My 17L gen 5 works fine. i have an EPS red dot on it. A week or two before i shot it: I did clean it well, oiled it, had stored the mags full with bullets, did lots of dry firing and kept the slide back while storing it. Some tips from the comments below.
Purchased 17L about a week ago service from GT was fast, customer service was outstanding and the price was great! Cleaned and lubricated it and headed to the range. I used high quality Federal 115g, 124g, and 147g along with Blazer 124g and Magtech 115g. I loaded the 115 Fed and had nothing but misfires, jams and stovetop partial ejections. I switched to the 124g weapon cycled a little better but still the same issues. Finally I utilized the 147g which seemed to cycle the best but not perfectly! I field striped it and lubricated it again firing the Blazer124g and finally Magtech 115g still encountered cycling and extraction issues, but not as numerous. In total I fired about 250 rounds through it. So I think that debunks the Glock tech it takes 200 rounds theory. Hopefully this is just a break in issue, but from videos I’ve seen this seems like a pretty common issue with the L. I wish I had watched the videos before I purchase, but that’s water under the bridge now. I will see how it runs when I go back to the range and if I have the same issues I will contact Glock for warranty claim so they can check it out. Lastly my CZ USA CP10-F cycled perfectly one jam/misfire firing 115g and 124g ammunition.
Looking at the malfunctions, I feel like it’s related to recoil spring weight and/or the extractor being fucky. How many rounds did you get through it? Wonder if it would break in after a few hundred rounds of nato spec ammo
Recoil spring to strong and not recoiling back enough from what it looked like shells were barely falling out to the side 16 or 15 pound spring might help if the spring is 17 or 18lbs
I'm having the same issues with my Glock 17L. Thus far, have tried 115,124,135, and 147 FMJ and have experienced the same stovepipe malfunction. Sometimes the casing ejects, other times it gets hung up.
Yeah, my 34 literally never malfunctioned once from new, in stock form. I did have a few things happen after I started to mod/rod it. Took a few mags to get back to perfect after guide rod, spring, red dot, threads and the comp screwed onto them..... Can't blame Glock for that
The recoil spring may be a little stiff out of the box for some of the lower-power ammo on the market these days. My Gen5 G34 was like that. Try something a little hotter, like some Winchester Q4318 9mm NATO (or some +P duty loads), and see if it runs as it should. If so, it'll probably be fine after a short break-in with NATO spec ammo. My Gen5 34 also seemed to have a tighter-than-normal barrel to slide lockup at first, but that wore in pretty quick, and it has been the most accurate Glock I've ever owned since. I don't know if they do anything different with the competition models to wring some extra accuracy out of them, but that's what I was wondering at the time. Either way, it ran perfectly after it ate 3 or 4 boxes of 9mm NATO.
@@GoldenWebb It should be the same recoil spring assembly for the Gen5 17, 34, and 17L. Rather than worry about different spring weights, they make relief cuts on the longer slides to get them down to the same weight (within a fraction of an ounce) as a standard 17 slide. If you have a well-used Gen5 17 or 34 handy, you could borrow one of their recoil spring assemblies, temporarily put it in the new 17L, and see if the problem goes away. If so, the new 17L likely just needs to hammer through a healthy dose of full-power NATO spec ammo to break her in right. Once that fresh recoil spring assembly gets a proper workout and takes an initial set, I bet it'll cycle the weaker stuff reliably. Of course, something else out of the ordinary could be going on. Still, the guns were designed to function reliably with hotter NATO spec and +P duty ammo, which runs at 10-15% higher chamber pressure than the cheaper mouse fart target loads most folks are buying these days, so that seems the most likely culprit to me after having a similar experience with my Gen5 34. I would rather have a recoil spring assembly that won't cycle weaker ammo at first but soaks up the hot stuff really well than one that runs the weaker stuff 100% from the start but lets the gun get pounded by the hot stuff. Anyway, I'm curious how it turns out for you because I hope to pick one up for myself eventually.
The only time that has happened to me with a Glock was due to ammo, repeated failures/stovepipes. I switched to Federal American Eagle 124gr and it ran fine. Can't remember the ammo that caused the stovepipes, but that's what did it for me.
Been many years since I really shot a lot of glocks, and all the older glocks always worked straight out of the box. Does seem like a lot of new gun issues now
I personally would completely disassemble the gun and inspect the individuals parts or at least do the slide. Sending a gun back can be a hassle, so I always keep as many spare parts as possible on hand at least for my Glocks and ARs.
I’m thinking the slide needs some lightening. Reminds me of issues some 380 have after they mount a dot (I know this had same malfunctions without, just thinking overall weight of slide is too heavy).
Just got one. Started off shooting 115g blazer brass and got stove pipeing and not locking back. Tried 124g 9mm nato that’s very hot ran several mags no problems 🤷♂️
Those malfunctions are crazy! I don't have a 17L, but I own EVERY other gen 5 9mm glock totaling 10 guns. All of them are mos models and i mounted a holosun 507C on all the wide frame guns and 507k on the micro framed guns. I sent my 26, 48, 43x & 43 to the glock store to have the slides milled for direct optic slide mounting. All the other mos guns i bought C&HPW mounting plates. On all 10 of these guns i have fired more than 1000rds ea. using 115gr. tul steel case and blazer aluminum ammo and i have never experienced any malfunctions on any of them, much less the malfunctions you had with the 17L. I read the comment saying that it may need a break in period of hogh pressure ammo, but i doubt it. I think there is something functionally wrong with it and you need to send it back. I watched 3 other guntubers vids on this gun (incl. Honest outlaw) and none had these problems. At 1st i was thinking a magazine or optic mounting problem but you said in the video you changed the mag and removed the optic and still had issues. So i would just send it in...good luck brother and give us an update, ill be looking forward to seeing it!
If I run standard 9mm ball at about 1200 fps it seems to work ok. Not stellar but ok. But remember I don’t have an optic on mine yet. I have some 115 and 127 +P+ and that works well. If I run my hand loads at about 1100 fps malfunctions ensue. I have no problems running the lower power loads in anyother 9mm I own including a Gen 3 G34. It’s my opinion right now that the issue is there is no slide cut in the Gen 5 17L but that’s just one persons opinion. If I had money to burn I would have the Gen 5 17L slide cut just as previous models were to prove my point but I’m not that wealthy. So I will probably ditch the 17L to someone who will only use factory made ammo in it. Ironically I just bought a CZ P-01 and that gun eats everything I put in it and has far better accuracy than the 17L. Go figure…. Rick H.
On my gen 5 17L I had about 5 malfunction just like the ones you were having in the first 100-150 rounds. After that it ran perfectly fine for another 200+ rounds in the first range trip I took it. Have never seen any of my other glocks do that but seems like it just needed broke in
We took the optic off and it done the same thing. We don’t have any other springs besides the new one that came with it. The 17L spring length is different from what we can tell
This has got to be something with a machining issue in the barrel or somewhere else probably the barrel as you said I mean, don’t feel like that. There’s a very limited number of things I can go wrong with it. It seems to me. It’s a rough chamber or something.
just bought a gen 5 17L. put 200 plus rounds through the gun(bad shoulder). i was shooting 124 gr blaser fmj did not have any issues to what you' re describing
If you’re having problems with it consistently, send it back to Glock. Might be the extractor, but it could also be the recoil spring assembly. They’ll look it over and fix it for free if there’s a problem. You could try polishing the feed ramp if that’s the problem as well. That being said, I usually run 124 grain nato pressure ball ammo in all of my Glocks for training and never really have that problem. It could just be that it doesn’t like 147 grain ammo as it’s too long to feed properly, which is why I don’t ever use 147 grain in my glocks, but ymmv.
Great video as usual! thanks for the warning! Carried glocks like you on duty a many years and never seen this! Please keep us posted and stay safe out there Blue Brother! 👮💙
I’m interested to get it back from Glock to see what they think. It’s the first Glock that’s not the .22lr that I’ve had problems with. Stay safer out there brother! 👮🏻♂️
My gut tells me it’s the recoil spring. The 115 making it slightly more reliable tells me it’s a problem with the slide short stroking. If it sat compressed at slide lock for a week it would be good to go. Also more lube, that’s too much slide mass friction to not take lube seriously.
Just got my Gen 5 17L a couple of days ago and mine has the same problems as shown in the video. I’ve used Glocks on the job and for EDC and never had an issue like this. As long as I run ammo over 1200 FPS it works pretty good but not 100%. I believe the problem lies in the multi spring recoil spring. It’s too strong in the last 1/3 of its travel for most ammunition. Hotter + P or +P+ overcomes the spring resistance and mine will work most of the time. I personally think Glock should have left the slide cut in the new 17L same as the old one. We will see what the video producer finds out.
New gun, I’d point it more as a “break in issue” initially. You don’t mention if you cleaned and lubed it and you don’t say if you changed ammo. The slide does t seem to be cycling consistently in terms of distance moved shot per shot.
@@GoldenWebbI’d still point it at the ammo. I slowed down your video and the slide movement just doesn’t seem “right”. As for “break in” in a Glock, I used to think Glocks never needed breaking in (I have/have had 15 of them), until I got a Glock 44 and 17 Gen 5 (my most recent Glock purchase). Generally no break in needed but, you never know.
I have a Glock 17 that ran perfect but kicked real bad. I put a stiffer spring in it to tone down the kick & it did that very same thing. It wouldn't even hold the slide open on the last round. Changed back to factory & no issues.
i say your ammo isnt powerful enough or the action just isnt smooth enough. your ejection is really weak, those cases arent getting thrown out with much force. could even be the ejector itself but my first thought is the ammo, 147gr ammo might have more "umph" and be more reliable. with how heavy and long a 17l slide is, i wouldnt be surprised if glock designed it around competition use and +p or even 9mm loads that approach major power factor.
Interesting, I have put tens of thousands thru my Issue Glock from 1988 to 2015 w/o one failure other than one time the trigger pull got very heavy but no failure to feed or eject. I took part in the evaluation and transition of the Glock for our PD and gave it a thumbs down at the time because of the grip but the weapon grew on me.
One of two things, when you loctited the optic some loctite got on the extractor plunger or the optic isn’t good for the firearm because it’s a budget optic and adds too much weight to cycle the slide. Or you need the hotter stuff to reliably cycle the slide like 147gr or +p
I don't feel like removing the RMR from my MOS Glock and lose zero on my carry gun as a result but I'm like 99% sure the holes on the MOS system are blind holes and don't cross into the extractor channel.
I’m betting recoil spring stiff and/or low power ammo. Some of those rounds look like they’re barely getting ejected, and the jam looks like slide isn’t making it back all the way.
I have no trouble with Magtech ammo, but Selliers and Bennoit stove pipes almost every time. Now my S&W M&P 2.0 10MM That stove pipe like crazy. Needs some break-in and they could use a little stiffer top slide spring.
Hello I was wondering if you had any updated thoughts on this with all the keyboard armorers in the comments. I’d really like to get 9mm buffalo bore bear rounds going out of the longest Glock barrel I can get. I’m thinking this is due to low pressure but I need something that works with high pressure bear rounds Thoughts?
Wondering if it’s optic on top. I know older ones couldn’t be milled. And because slide is so big weight maybe the problem with introduce more weight with the optic
I think my 17L Gen 3 just got a whole lot more valuable (to me) as I will not be buying the Gen 5 17L. This isn't the first time I've seen the Gen 5 17L have these feeding issues. I would imagine Glock will eventually revise the recoil spring, but between these problems and the cheap plastic dust cover thing they added to the front, I have no further interest in the 17L Gen 5 whatsoever. QC has really gone down the crapper and taken a dive, which includes Glock. As a Glock armorer myself I am seeing more and more brand new Glocks have problems straight out of the box, that isn't related to ammo or grip. Recently had a brand new Gen 5 26 come through the range as a rental that gave us all problems before it was stripped, cleaned, and then hand racked about 5-600 times before it became reliable. Also had a Glock 44 that was developing some serious nicks on the barrel that went back to Glock twice.
Are the Glocks you’re receiving predominately gen 5’s or do they include gen 4’s/gen 3’s? And what are the most common issues with them? Thanks in advance.
Just saw this video. Did you get an update? My first thought is the recoil spring. They skipped the Gen 4 17L and jumped back in with Gen 5. If I pick one up it’ll be a Gen 3.
I have a bunch of Glocks. Mostly Gen 3. Was issued Gen 3 Glock 17’s and 37’s in the State police. Never had a stoppage with a single pistol that wasn’t purposely induced for training. Bought a Gen 5 Glock 26 in the last year and it’s been back to Glock twice already for multiple types of malfunctions and by my estimation its reliability is still not carry worthy. Frustrated and mind blown by that pistol. That said my 43X’s run flawless for what is essentially a Gen 5.
Glock needs break in just like the rest of 'em. BUT, touching on their MOS system, it sucks. Many shooters just get an aftermarket plate. Just curious, you did clean it, but did you lube it?
I had this issue with my 43X. I saw another video speak of this and they blamed the recoil spring. I email Glock and they sent me a new one for free. Have yet to see if that fixed the issue tho.
@@GoldenWebb I had figured since 147s are known subs, supers would help cycle with the speed/snappier. Maybe need for a lighter recoils spring or slides cuts to decrease mass cycling, I am no gunsmith though
I've watched a couple of other 17L Gen5 reviews; those guns ran fine though one reviewer thought the accuracy of his was garbage. The other reviewer was running 115gr Blazer Brass and had zero stoppages. However it looked like he was also using a lot of older Glock mags. Your failure to feed problem definitely seems like a magazine issue, which when it happens the majority of chambering stoppages with new guns often come back to out-of-spec or overly stiff mag springs...either that or it can come down to severe limp wristing. Since I didn't see _any_ limp wristing by you, I'd say that your problem is likely with those new magazine springs. A former coworker had a problematic brand new G19 Gen4 years ago. The gun would periodically fail to feed and sometimes even stovepipe with all three factory mags. Myself and another coworker both told him to load up the mags to full capacity and let them sit for a week or so, then try it again. He waited about a week and half, went to the range with us after work and BANG(!)...no more feeding problems with any of those mags. Chances were that all of those mags were from the same production batch, so it would make sense that all three would cause problems if the first one did. So even with "perfect" (HAH!) Glocks, any magazine springs done wrong can be the Devil.
I was concerned when I saw these announced and they were missing the slide cut out. My first thought was they’re going to short stroke with all that extra weight. And here we are. Gonna wait this one out. Unfortunate as I love long slide glocks.
@@JR15A2 Dust cover is polymer, total mas is the same. I would attribute his issues to break-in lube and ammo. Ha also never tried a different mag (g34, used). Seems immature summation of the issue.
@@GoldenWebb Correct. They were going with a universal recoil spring assembly on the Gen 3/3.5 full size models. The slide cut they made at the rear wasn’t enough so they made the “compensator” cut at the front. My 24 and 24C have a similar cut to my original 17L.
I bought a gen 3 like 2 months ago and was pissed that a third of the top slide was cut off i couldn't see on the pictures, and now this fixes it. Kind of stuck on if i want to buy it or not
Id say shoot good quality name brand ammunition for the first 300-500rds. The ammunition used for this video is not something you wanna depend on to run reliable on a new oem glock.
Good info to watch for if i buy one. I really want one though. My just rebuild the whole gun if i have that problem. I love these kinda guns. I love fixing problems on them too. Especially glocks. Glock is not perfection.
@@GoldenWebb You were getting a lot of malfunctions. I'd definitely send it in. My guess is your recoil spring is a little stiff. Do you have a 17 recoil spring or 34 spring to try?
Throw some pissin hot duty ammo in there and see if it malfunctions. All the ammos you listed are range ammos right? I.e. none of them are "hot"? I read through the comments and I understand that you shot that ammo in other glocks that are well used but this one is brand new and might very well need NATO ammo. Does it say USA or Austria on the slide? That one has the little Glock logo next to the rear cocking serrations on the right hand side of the slide which I'm pretty sure means it was made in Austria because the USA glocks have a little etching of the state of Georgia in that spot instead of the Glock logo. If that sucker says Austria on it then load some honest to goodness NATO powered ammo in there and see what happens. Do that before sending it back to Glock and film it. I got a feeling it just needs some hot ammo to break in.
It is Austria and we did use all range ammo, nothing hot or +P. We shot in total 100 rounds through it and only got one mag to function all 17 rounds. We will try that
Well, I'd send it back to Glock and let them fix it. Then update us. Any company can put out a bad gun, what really matters is if they stand behind their product and fix it. Let us know.
Looks like brass is deflecting off the optic and hitting the barrel hood. That would slow the slide velocity enough to not feed and would also cause stovepipes. Apex gen5 extractor should fix that, 5 generations of "Glock Perfection"
Run to the internet to broadcast a defective part and start shyt and spread rumors for a view No reason to start a fuss just make a couple simple part swaps or send it to Glock and let them take care of it
Had this same issue happen to me when I had my Glock 48 MOS. Turns out the issue was that when I mounted my red dot, the screw on the right side was longer than then screw on the left. The screw on the right would impede on the ejector spring and the ejector it self. I was at my local indoor range and no one in the range including the Glock armorer knew what was going on. I stepped back and took a good look after it jammed up again. Thats when I noticed that my ejector was sticking out way too far. I took off the red dot and the slide and did a thorough inspection that’s when I noticed that the screws were two different sizes. Good thing I had extra screws from the red dot (Holosun 507K) and that’s where my problem ended. I switched the screws from left to right and right to left and that solved the issue. Now in your case, I heard you state that you took off the red dot and the issue still exists. If your issue was the same as mine I could only suggest that you remove the ejector and inspect it and the area. Make sure it’s not any lubricants, burrs or any damage to the ejector spring. Re install the ejector and try at it again. Keep us posted on the issue as I’m looking into getting a 34 or 17L myself. Or maybe both. Would be nice to know what to inspect to prevent this same issue from happening.
I have done that with an optic before as well. Pretty much locks up your ejector
On the 17L at no point does the wholes for the RMR go into the channel for the extractor, from what I can tell the spring is to stiff for the slide. I’ve never had this problem at all with any of my Glocks before so this is a first for me.
Great observation. Saved me a lot of trouble.
Whenever you add weight to your slide, you are impeding the action to the design of your handgun!! The slide is designed with the weight of the slide in mind. Its the fault of the added weight/modification, not the gun. Dont send it to glock, just dont modify the gun when it was designed to operate without that added weight.
@@stevenp8198 Doesn't add up. Why would it be cut for an optic if it wasn't designed to handle shooting with one.
I talked to a Glock tech, and they advised that the 17L needs about a 200 round break in shooting NATO pressured rounds, before it will be reliable with 115 gr. range ammo.
lol if that’s true they can keep it. I’m not malfunction training for a week straight to get to 200 rounds
@@GoldenWebbBoy no kidding. That's ridiculous
That slide size might need more break in since the did mill the window in the top of the slides like they did with the gen 3s. Still ridulous to do a 200 rnd break in.
Try new guide titanium not sure what pound itch.
there was once a time that guns didnt require a "break In" period. Thats where hand finishing and fitment comes in which is now a step companies skip everytime. Its time to bring it back, if the gun isnt smooth and ready to go from factory they shouldnt release it,
Had this happen with a 43x years back. Found out it was actually the magazine springs. Let them sit fully load for 2 weeks and it never happened again. Guessing they were too stiff. But idk about this one
I’ve tried used mags and new, had no affect on what it would do
I have one, got it last Sunday. It runs like a watch. I did completely strip it, replaced the trigger with the Glock performance one, added lube to the slide. But that is basic stuff. Clean, well lubed during break in and quality ammo (Wilson Combat is what I shoot). Additionally, I have not added a red dot yet, I have an SRO ready to go but I want to run 1000+ rounds thru it before I go MOS.
Interesting. I’ve done all of them but I also shot mine without optic and it still done this. Makes me reconsidering buying it. Idk why they would have made it MOS if it can’t run with an optic without having to use +P ammo
Same exact issue on my new 34. Exactly what you are experiencing and as a former LEO totally familiar with Glocks…own several.
Was getting double feeds…stove pipes…failures to extract…jams on a new 34. That was initially. Yes the 34. Was disappointing.
Tried different magazines etc.
I was recommended to keep shooting 200 rounds….higher compression grains. Eventually all working well. Went from 115 grain to 124. Cleared up after 300 rounds or so…I only use 124 and up.. Another recommendation was to not use the slide release button but slap in the magazine hard and the manually rack the slide to load. By using the slide release button, the ammo wasn’t sitting properly. Try that method as well. Good luck…hope to hear back.
We just switched from Glock 22 Gen 4 in late 2022 to Glock 34 Gen 5 at my department. I’m the armorer and weapons instructor and we never had a single problem out of any of the 34s we issued out. If I had to go to war today and was given an option on any pistol I could take it would be with my Glock 34. That being said, hopefully this 17L will work its way out before to long.
Hard to tell without lookin over in person, but I would look at a rough chamber or possibly an out of whack extractor that's either out of spec or over tensioned and not letting the case ride up in line with the chamber and putting stress on it when extracting as well. Those newer gen5s have really tight breach face tolerances compared to past generations
The brass that’s extracted also has large markings from something scratching it while loading or extracting from the barrel. Interested to see what Glock says
I was thinking the same thing,I've received 2 Glocks with really tight chambers like really tight ,I thought it was recoil spring then changed the ejector and extractor twice and then to find out the chamber was way to tight,it's actually somewhat common for Glocks for some reason
Glock 21 back in 1996 was my first pistol and worked flawlessly. Bought a G22 in 2014 (in Knoxville BTW), and it was a jam-o-matic for me. I sold it back to the dealer. Since then I’ve stuck with Colt 1911s & S&W M&P9s.
Glock has never had a great track record with the 40 Cal’s. I had a Glock 22 for my duty weapon and never had a problem out of it. Also had a Glock 27 40 cal and it was a piece of crap. Who knows
That's frustrating. It may just need some breaking in. I've had everything from G17 to G19 to G34 and other models and never had any problems with them. Only Glock I did have a problem with was a Gen 5 G26. It did pretty much the same exact thing yours is doing now. Everybody said I was limp wristing it but I didn't think that was my problem. Took awhile but it did eventually break in. I would leave the slide locked back and the mags loaded. I was wanting to send it in to Glock for them to look at it but I talked to a tech for a little bit and he said the Gen 5's are tighter and that the G26's usually need some breaking in. He recommended leaving the slide locked back when not in use and to keep the mags loaded to help everything break in. So far it's been running good.
I’ve never had a single problem with any Glock I’ve ever had except the Glock 44 .22Lr. It was crap. I’ll try this though before sending it back
Had that exact same thing with my Glock 26 GEN 5! After some lubricate and 50 rounds i never had any issue with it again. I’ve limped wrist it on purpose the other day at the range and only got one malfunction again
That's good. Yeah I don't know why but mine needed quite a few hundred rounds before it started working correctly. Once it broke in and I trusted it, it became my favorite conceal carry. The short grip really helps in concealing.@@MidsBeHittin
My 17L gen 5 works fine. i have an EPS red dot on it. A week or two before i shot it: I did clean it well, oiled it, had stored the mags full with bullets, did lots of dry firing and kept the slide back while storing it. Some tips from the comments below.
That from what I’ve read does help. Glock still has my pistol, waiting on its return
Purchased 17L about a week ago service from GT was fast, customer service was outstanding and the price was great! Cleaned and lubricated it and headed to the range. I used high quality Federal 115g, 124g, and 147g along with Blazer 124g and Magtech 115g. I loaded the 115 Fed and had nothing but misfires, jams and stovetop partial ejections. I switched to the 124g weapon cycled a little better but still the same issues. Finally I utilized the 147g which seemed to cycle the best but not perfectly! I field striped it and lubricated it again firing the Blazer124g and finally Magtech 115g still encountered cycling and extraction issues, but not as numerous. In total I fired about 250 rounds through it. So I think that debunks the Glock tech it takes 200 rounds theory. Hopefully this is just a break in issue, but from videos I’ve seen this seems like a pretty common issue with the L. I wish I had watched the videos before I purchase, but that’s water under the bridge now. I will see how it runs when I go back to the range and if I have the same issues I will contact Glock for warranty claim so they can check it out. Lastly my CZ USA CP10-F cycled perfectly one jam/misfire firing 115g and 124g ammunition.
Looking at the malfunctions, I feel like it’s related to recoil spring weight and/or the extractor being fucky. How many rounds did you get through it? Wonder if it would break in after a few hundred rounds of nato spec ammo
We shot 100 rounds through it of nothing but malfunctions and still couldn’t get it to run
Recoil spring to strong and not recoiling back enough from what it looked like shells were barely falling out to the side
16 or 15 pound spring might help if the spring is 17 or 18lbs
@JROCK100ification that’s what I’m believing as well. Sucks that Glock didn’t already have this ready to go from factory
I'm having the same issues with my Glock 17L. Thus far, have tried 115,124,135, and 147 FMJ and have experienced the same stovepipe malfunction. Sometimes the casing ejects, other times it gets hung up.
I haven’t heard anything from Glock yet. Try having your guns spring held back over night and let me know what happens
Did you use LoCite for the screws RedDot....esp. on the right side.....if that leaks into the channel....that could be the problem.
Mine works perfectly. Are you using quality ammo? The 17L slide is heavy, so low quality ammo may not provide enough pressure to cycle correctly.
Used all range ammo but it was Winchester, S&B and Bellom. If it can’t run them I don’t wanna keep it to be honest
Yeah, my 34 literally never malfunctioned once from new, in stock form. I did have a few things happen after I started to mod/rod it. Took a few mags to get back to perfect after guide rod, spring, red dot, threads and the comp screwed onto them..... Can't blame Glock for that
You should do a follow up video on the 17L Gen 5... I'm considering one myself but after stumbling upon this video... I'm reluctant.
The recoil spring may be a little stiff out of the box for some of the lower-power ammo on the market these days. My Gen5 G34 was like that. Try something a little hotter, like some Winchester Q4318 9mm NATO (or some +P duty loads), and see if it runs as it should. If so, it'll probably be fine after a short break-in with NATO spec ammo. My Gen5 34 also seemed to have a tighter-than-normal barrel to slide lockup at first, but that wore in pretty quick, and it has been the most accurate Glock I've ever owned since. I don't know if they do anything different with the competition models to wring some extra accuracy out of them, but that's what I was wondering at the time. Either way, it ran perfectly after it ate 3 or 4 boxes of 9mm NATO.
I’ve had about 4 brand new 34s and have never experienced a single problem out of them. I believe the spring is to strong in the pistol to be honest
@@GoldenWebb my first thought
@@GoldenWebb It should be the same recoil spring assembly for the Gen5 17, 34, and 17L. Rather than worry about different spring weights, they make relief cuts on the longer slides to get them down to the same weight (within a fraction of an ounce) as a standard 17 slide. If you have a well-used Gen5 17 or 34 handy, you could borrow one of their recoil spring assemblies, temporarily put it in the new 17L, and see if the problem goes away. If so, the new 17L likely just needs to hammer through a healthy dose of full-power NATO spec ammo to break her in right. Once that fresh recoil spring assembly gets a proper workout and takes an initial set, I bet it'll cycle the weaker stuff reliably. Of course, something else out of the ordinary could be going on. Still, the guns were designed to function reliably with hotter NATO spec and +P duty ammo, which runs at 10-15% higher chamber pressure than the cheaper mouse fart target loads most folks are buying these days, so that seems the most likely culprit to me after having a similar experience with my Gen5 34. I would rather have a recoil spring assembly that won't cycle weaker ammo at first but soaks up the hot stuff really well than one that runs the weaker stuff 100% from the start but lets the gun get pounded by the hot stuff. Anyway, I'm curious how it turns out for you because I hope to pick one up for myself eventually.
It does strike me as a little too much recoil spring too.
Same with my 34. See my post.
The only time that has happened to me with a Glock was due to ammo, repeated failures/stovepipes. I switched to Federal American Eagle 124gr and it ran fine. Can't remember the ammo that caused the stovepipes, but that's what did it for me.
It’s a Glock, it should run about everything though lol
Seems as though almost everyone's QC is in the toilet these days. Kind of makes one afraid to buy a new gun.
I’ve had a rough time with some. I’ve never had a problem out of a Glock besides the G44 .22Lr
I have 4 Sig P320's zero malfunctions
Been many years since I really shot a lot of glocks, and all the older glocks always worked straight out of the box. Does seem like a lot of new gun issues now
@@Savage_Thinkerbro is coping over his garbage purchase nobody is even talking about 😂
@@caseyschryber1255 right 🤣
I personally would completely disassemble the gun and inspect the individuals parts or at least do the slide. Sending a gun back can be a hassle, so I always keep as many spare parts as possible on hand at least for my Glocks and ARs.
I’ve got a lot for Glocks, but at the same time a brand new gun doing this is not good
Resister for GSSF go to a competition and have the Glock gun smiths fix it for free.
Glock Perfection
Hahahah
I’m thinking the slide needs some lightening. Reminds me of issues some 380 have after they mount a dot (I know this had same malfunctions without, just thinking overall weight of slide is too heavy).
They really needed to cut out the top of it. The lug on the bottom is also polymer
I had the exact same problem with mine. Ended up taking about 500rds to break-in. Way too oversprung imo. It's flawless now after the break-in though.
Just got one. Started off shooting 115g blazer brass and got stove pipeing and not locking back. Tried 124g 9mm nato that’s very hot ran several mags no problems 🤷♂️
Have you switched back to 115gr yet? How’s it doing?
@@GoldenWebb on a positive note though holy cow I’m accurate with it
Those malfunctions are crazy! I don't have a 17L, but I own EVERY other gen 5 9mm glock totaling 10 guns. All of them are mos models and i mounted a holosun 507C on all the wide frame guns and 507k on the micro framed guns. I sent my 26, 48, 43x & 43 to the glock store to have the slides milled for direct optic slide mounting. All the other mos guns i bought C&HPW mounting plates. On all 10 of these guns i have fired more than 1000rds ea. using 115gr. tul steel case and blazer aluminum ammo and i have never experienced any malfunctions on any of them, much less the malfunctions you had with the 17L. I read the comment saying that it may need a break in period of hogh pressure ammo, but i doubt it. I think there is something functionally wrong with it and you need to send it back. I watched 3 other guntubers vids on this gun (incl. Honest outlaw) and none had these problems. At 1st i was thinking a magazine or optic mounting problem but you said in the video you changed the mag and removed the optic and still had issues. So i would just send it in...good luck brother and give us an update, ill be looking forward to seeing it!
I should add too that my problems with the 17L MOS I purchased are almost identical to the one in the video, but I have no optic on mine.
Rick H.
Have you figured out anything to help it yet?
If I run standard 9mm ball at about 1200 fps it seems to work ok. Not stellar but ok. But remember I don’t have an optic on mine yet. I have some 115 and 127 +P+ and that works well. If I run my hand loads at about 1100 fps malfunctions ensue. I have no problems running the lower power loads in anyother 9mm I own including a Gen 3 G34. It’s my opinion right now that the issue is there is no slide cut in the Gen 5 17L but that’s just one persons opinion. If I had money to burn I would have the Gen 5 17L slide cut just as previous models were to prove my point but I’m not that wealthy. So I will probably ditch the 17L to someone who will only use factory made ammo in it. Ironically I just bought a CZ P-01 and that gun eats everything I put in it and has far better accuracy than the 17L. Go figure….
Rick H.
On my gen 5 17L I had about 5 malfunction just like the ones you were having in the first 100-150 rounds. After that it ran perfectly fine for another 200+ rounds in the first range trip I took it. Have never seen any of my other glocks do that but seems like it just needed broke in
Interesting, we have ours back but haven’t got a chance to test it yet
@@GoldenWebb recently discovered your channel from the burn down vids so exited to see more from you 👍
Try different spring weight maybe because of the added weight of the optic
We took the optic off and it done the same thing. We don’t have any other springs besides the new one that came with it. The 17L spring length is different from what we can tell
This has got to be something with a machining issue in the barrel or somewhere else probably the barrel as you said I mean, don’t feel like that. There’s a very limited number of things I can go wrong with it. It seems to me. It’s a rough chamber or something.
Rough chamber would explain extraction issues
just bought a gen 5 17L. put 200 plus rounds through the gun(bad shoulder). i was shooting 124 gr blaser fmj did not have any issues to what you' re describing
If you’re having problems with it consistently, send it back to Glock. Might be the extractor, but it could also be the recoil spring assembly. They’ll look it over and fix it for free if there’s a problem.
You could try polishing the feed ramp if that’s the problem as well.
That being said, I usually run 124 grain nato pressure ball ammo in all of my Glocks for training and never really have that problem. It could just be that it doesn’t like 147 grain ammo as it’s too long to feed properly, which is why I don’t ever use 147 grain in my glocks, but ymmv.
Great video as usual! thanks for the warning! Carried glocks like you on duty a many years and never seen this! Please keep us posted and stay safe out there Blue Brother! 👮💙
I’m interested to get it back from Glock to see what they think. It’s the first Glock that’s not the .22lr that I’ve had problems with. Stay safer out there brother! 👮🏻♂️
Had a smith and Wesson M&P 40 do this. I polished the feed ramp and then it was fine
Interesting
My gut tells me it’s the recoil spring. The 115 making it slightly more reliable tells me it’s a problem with the slide short stroking. If it sat compressed at slide lock for a week it would be good to go. Also more lube, that’s too much slide mass friction to not take lube seriously.
I did add more and still continued to do this. Hopefully will be sending it to Glock this week. I’ll keep everyone updated.
Just got my Gen 5 17L a couple of days ago and mine has the same problems as shown in the video. I’ve used Glocks on the job and for EDC and never had an issue like this. As long as I run ammo over 1200 FPS it works pretty good but not 100%. I believe the problem lies in the multi spring recoil spring. It’s too strong in the last 1/3 of its travel for most ammunition. Hotter + P or +P+ overcomes the spring resistance and mine will work most of the time. I personally think Glock should have left the slide cut in the new 17L same as the old one. We will see what the video producer finds out.
I got it shipped out today. Hopefully we will find out before to long
Hope you let us know what they say or do.
New gun, I’d point it more as a “break in issue” initially. You don’t mention if you cleaned and lubed it and you don’t say if you changed ammo. The slide does t seem to be cycling consistently in terms of distance moved shot per shot.
I cleaned and lubed it after original malfunctions then shot the video you see. I’ve never had a break in period with a Glock.
@@GoldenWebbI’d still point it at the ammo. I slowed down your video and the slide movement just doesn’t seem “right”. As for “break in” in a Glock, I used to think Glocks never needed breaking in (I have/have had 15 of them), until I got a Glock 44 and 17 Gen 5 (my most recent Glock purchase). Generally no break in needed but, you never know.
I have a Glock 17 that ran perfect but kicked real bad. I put a stiffer spring in it to tone down the kick & it did that very same thing. It wouldn't even hold the slide open on the last round. Changed back to factory & no issues.
Could be stiff springs
Having the same issue. Doesn’t happen using Federal HST, but I’m not burning up hollow points practicing.
Yea no joke
Can you please say whether the magazines you used are those that came with the 17L in the box?
i say your ammo isnt powerful enough or the action just isnt smooth enough. your ejection is really weak, those cases arent getting thrown out with much force. could even be the ejector itself but my first thought is the ammo, 147gr ammo might have more "umph" and be more reliable. with how heavy and long a 17l slide is, i wouldnt be surprised if glock designed it around competition use and +p or even 9mm loads that approach major power factor.
We tried everything from 115 Winchester, 147grain Remington, 147 Bellium, 124 sellior and bellot. We also shot a G34 next to it, shot everything
Interesting, I have put tens of thousands thru my Issue Glock from 1988 to 2015 w/o one failure other than one time the trigger pull got very heavy but no failure to feed or eject. I took part in the evaluation and transition of the Glock for our PD and gave it a thumbs down at the time because of the grip but the weapon grew on me.
One of two things, when you loctited the optic some loctite got on the extractor plunger or the optic isn’t good for the firearm because it’s a budget optic and adds too much weight to cycle the slide. Or you need the hotter stuff to reliably cycle the slide like 147gr or +p
I’ve ran this on a 34 with no problems. We also ran it without the optic, no problems at all
I don't feel like removing the RMR from my MOS Glock and lose zero on my carry gun as a result but I'm like 99% sure the holes on the MOS system are blind holes and don't cross into the extractor channel.
@armorers_wrench that is correct, I checked today and they don’t go into their channels
I’m betting recoil spring stiff and/or low power ammo. Some of those rounds look like they’re barely getting ejected, and the jam looks like slide isn’t making it back all the way.
I have no trouble with Magtech ammo, but Selliers and Bennoit stove pipes almost every time.
Now my S&W M&P 2.0 10MM That stove pipe like crazy.
Needs some break-in and they could use a little stiffer top slide spring.
I have a Gen5 17L and it is doing the exact same thing! Let us know what Glock Says.
I will. Hopefully I can hear back from them soon.
Look at the ejection yeah that’s something not right in the chamber binding it up
Yea it’s like they are barely falling out of it
Hello I was wondering if you had any updated thoughts on this with all the keyboard armorers in the comments. I’d really like to get 9mm buffalo bore bear rounds going out of the longest Glock barrel I can get. I’m thinking this is due to low pressure but I need something that works with high pressure bear rounds Thoughts?
Wondering if it’s optic on top. I know older ones couldn’t be milled. And because slide is so big weight maybe the problem with introduce more weight with the optic
I can’t imagine them making it MOS if it wouldn’t shoot with a dot on it. We also took it off and it still done this
Try sanding the feed ramp that or it's just a breaking period
Imma just send it back to Glock and let them see what’s going on
@GoldenWebb Yeah, Sanding the feed ramp Might void any warranties
I think my 17L Gen 3 just got a whole lot more valuable (to me) as I will not be buying the Gen 5 17L. This isn't the first time I've seen the Gen 5 17L have these feeding issues. I would imagine Glock will eventually revise the recoil spring, but between these problems and the cheap plastic dust cover thing they added to the front, I have no further interest in the 17L Gen 5 whatsoever.
QC has really gone down the crapper and taken a dive, which includes Glock. As a Glock armorer myself I am seeing more and more brand new Glocks have problems straight out of the box, that isn't related to ammo or grip.
Recently had a brand new Gen 5 26 come through the range as a rental that gave us all problems before it was stripped, cleaned, and then hand racked about 5-600 times before it became reliable. Also had a Glock 44 that was developing some serious nicks on the barrel that went back to Glock twice.
Yea I’m disappointed from this one with Glock for sure. We still haven’t got it back
Are the Glocks you’re receiving predominately gen 5’s or do they include gen 4’s/gen 3’s? And what are the most common issues with them? Thanks in advance.
Have you tried any different mags in it because it looks like it could be that type of issue but I’m not 💯 on that obviously
I’ve tried a bunch of
Do you think it’s a recoil spring or a feed ramp problem
Recoil spring. Extraction seems to be off as well. At times it looks like they are falling out of the gun. The slide is just to heavy to work reliably
Ammo and brand or just a bad make 42 does well it just one brand of ammo . Check it out with a different ammo
We used Winchester, S&B and bellot, 115, 124, 147. Nothing ran great, ran OK with a few failures per mag with 115
Just saw this video. Did you get an update? My first thought is the recoil spring. They skipped the Gen 4 17L and jumped back in with Gen 5. If I pick one up it’ll be a Gen 3.
How was the reliability on the gen3 17L?
Have you tried a 34 recoil spring yet and do you think that it’s oversprung?
I never had reliability issues with my Gen 3 17L. Just problems with not being able to get the sight to hit POA and POI. Not tried my 34 spring in it
@@GoldenWebb two gen 3 17L's here, looks like they just went up in price CHA CHING
coffin cuts seem the be the winner here
Have you tried not limp wristing?
That's a joke
Hahaha a few times
The OEM mags start out that way and need breaking in. After about 100 rounds they mine were flawless.
I have a bunch of Glocks. Mostly Gen 3. Was issued Gen 3 Glock 17’s and 37’s in the State police. Never had a stoppage with a single pistol that wasn’t purposely induced for training. Bought a Gen 5 Glock 26 in the last year and it’s been back to Glock twice already for multiple types of malfunctions and by my estimation its reliability is still not carry worthy. Frustrated and mind blown by that pistol. That said my 43X’s run flawless for what is essentially a Gen 5.
That’s interesting as well. I’ve had 4 Glock 26 and never had a problem with any of them
If you don’t mind me asking. Where did you get your Glock 17 Gen 5 mos? Thanks
It’s the 17L Gen 5, and Center Target in London, Kentucky
@@GoldenWebb haha yeah that’s what I meant the 17L. Thanks for the info. I subscribed to your channel. Good content.
Glock needs break in just like the rest of 'em. BUT, touching on their MOS system, it sucks. Many shooters just get an aftermarket plate. Just curious, you did clean it, but did you lube it?
I had this issue with my 43X. I saw another video speak of this and they blamed the recoil spring. I email Glock and they sent me a new one for free. Have yet to see if that fixed the issue tho.
I noticed with my Gen5 17L it was difficult to eject a live round from the chamber, it has to do something with that I believe.
Have you had any malfunctions?
@@backdraft216 Yes several failure to chamber the next round just like the guy in the video.
Interesting that it’s happening across the board. Looks like Glock might not have tested it as much as we would have liked it to have been
@@GoldenWebb I picked mine up last Saturday, havnt had it out to shoot yet, I’ll keep y’all posted.
Have you been running any 124s? or +P might break in the recoil spring
Ran 124 as well. Didn’t change. Haven’t ran +P
@@GoldenWebb I had figured since 147s are known subs, supers would help cycle with the speed/snappier. Maybe need for a lighter recoils spring or slides cuts to decrease mass cycling, I am no gunsmith though
Wow I wanted to get a long slide but rethinking it !
Good info looking forward to the follow up vid.👍
Thank you brother!
But but but Glock PeRfEcTiOn
I love my Glocks but they aren’t perfection lol
Did you ever find a resolution? Mine is doing the same thing..
I got one only 200 rounds down maybe 1 ftf but ammo is from the 90s.
My Gen 2 17L failure has always been from the same mag.
Any other types of failures?
I've watched a couple of other 17L Gen5 reviews; those guns ran fine though one reviewer thought the accuracy of his was garbage. The other reviewer was running 115gr Blazer Brass and had zero stoppages. However it looked like he was also using a lot of older Glock mags. Your failure to feed problem definitely seems like a magazine issue, which when it happens the majority of chambering stoppages with new guns often come back to out-of-spec or overly stiff mag springs...either that or it can come down to severe limp wristing. Since I didn't see _any_ limp wristing by you, I'd say that your problem is likely with those new magazine springs.
A former coworker had a problematic brand new G19 Gen4 years ago. The gun would periodically fail to feed and sometimes even stovepipe with all three factory mags. Myself and another coworker both told him to load up the mags to full capacity and let them sit for a week or so, then try it again. He waited about a week and half, went to the range with us after work and BANG(!)...no more feeding problems with any of those mags. Chances were that all of those mags were from the same production batch, so it would make sense that all three would cause problems if the first one did. So even with "perfect" (HAH!) Glocks, any magazine springs done wrong can be the Devil.
I was concerned when I saw these announced and they were missing the slide cut out. My first thought was they’re going to short stroke with all that extra weight. And here we are. Gonna wait this one out. Unfortunate as I love long slide glocks.
The slide is relieved of the extra weight in other areas, like the Gen5 G34. The engineers Glock employs are a lot smarter than that.
@@JR15A2 Dust cover is polymer, total mas is the same. I would attribute his issues to break-in lube and ammo. Ha also never tried a different mag (g34, used). Seems immature summation of the issue.
The slide is supposed to be the same weight as a Glock 17 if I’m not mistaken. That being said, it shouldn’t be short stroking even it being brand new
@@GoldenWebb Correct. They were going with a universal recoil spring assembly on the Gen 3/3.5 full size models. The slide cut they made at the rear wasn’t enough so they made the “compensator” cut at the front. My 24 and 24C have a similar cut to my original 17L.
I bought a gen 3 like 2 months ago and was pissed that a third of the top slide was cut off i couldn't see on the pictures, and now this fixes it. Kind of stuck on if i want to buy it or not
I’d stay away from it for alittle while. At least till I can get mine back
@GoldenWebb yeah after watching the video I'll keep mine, haven't had an issue in 200 rounds
How's the connector bend angle?
Is the trigger suspiciously stiff?
Take the rmr off the slide. Its technically not cut to lighten the slide. Wish they had made it non mos
Id say shoot good quality name brand ammunition for the first 300-500rds. The ammunition used for this video is not something you wanna depend on to run reliable on a new oem glock.
I’ve used this ammo for every other new OEM Glock I’ve ever had. Never had a problem so far with everything from a Glock 17, 19, 45, 47, 34, 26
It might be ammo related.
We tried to many ammos that ran perfect in our 34 for it to mess up in this one
Wow That was probably one of the biggest flinches I've ever seen and you pull the trigger and nothing happened but the gun went down 6 inches😅😅😅😅😅
That’s a big 6 inches!
How about running +p+ ammo through that.
Hope Glock address this is fast! I'll wait to see how this is solved before I get one.
Still waiting to hear back from them
My 43X didn't become reliable until about the 700th round.
Good info to watch for if i buy one. I really want one though. My just rebuild the whole gun if i have that problem. I love these kinda guns. I love fixing problems on them too. Especially glocks. Glock is not perfection.
From what I can tell the spring is just too strong for the gun. We will still be sending it back to Glock to be tested
@GoldenWebb I would too. They might have just put the wrong spring in it.
Big heavy slide needs hotter ammo. The gen 3 17l was ammo sensitive as well. You cant cheat physics.
Didn’t know that. Never had any problems with my Gen 3 17L
@@GoldenWebb You were getting a lot of malfunctions. I'd definitely send it in. My guess is your recoil spring is a little stiff. Do you have a 17 recoil spring or 34 spring to try?
@@GoldenWebb Try some different mags also.
Looks like recoil spring is too strong.
It is I believe
Seems like the recoil spring is to stiff or something
Yea that’s what I’m thinking as well
can u do ballistic gel test for g17 and g17L
How bought clean it first.
So much for glock perfection.
Yep
Perfection...
Throw some pissin hot duty ammo in there and see if it malfunctions. All the ammos you listed are range ammos right? I.e. none of them are "hot"? I read through the comments and I understand that you shot that ammo in other glocks that are well used but this one is brand new and might very well need NATO ammo.
Does it say USA or Austria on the slide? That one has the little Glock logo next to the rear cocking serrations on the right hand side of the slide which I'm pretty sure means it was made in Austria because the USA glocks have a little etching of the state of Georgia in that spot instead of the Glock logo. If that sucker says Austria on it then load some honest to goodness NATO powered ammo in there and see what happens. Do that before sending it back to Glock and film it. I got a feeling it just needs some hot ammo to break in.
It is Austria and we did use all range ammo, nothing hot or +P. We shot in total 100 rounds through it and only got one mag to function all 17 rounds. We will try that
faulty mag spring
Ended up being to stiff of a guide rod spring
Well, I'd send it back to Glock and let them fix it. Then update us. Any company can put out a bad gun, what really matters is if they stand behind their product and fix it. Let us know.
Sent it back today. I’ll keep yall updated!
Replace that guide rod with a tungsten rod
This is the newest Glock out, I’m not sure they make one for the updated model yet
polish the feed ranp
Imma send it back to Glock before doing that
Hear anything back from Glock yet Goldenweb?
Not yet. Haven’t got my pistol back yet either
Feed ramp?
Looks like it's sprung too heavy and short stroking.
That’s what I’m also thing
Looks like brass is deflecting off the optic and hitting the barrel hood. That would slow the slide velocity enough to not feed and would also cause stovepipes. Apex gen5 extractor should fix that, 5 generations of "Glock Perfection"
They had issue without the optic too
We had the same problem without the optic as well
I never use 147g in any of my glocks…never an issue
This is an ammo issue. Easy to see. Use quality 9mm
Federal HST 124 and 147 not quality ammo?
Run to the internet to broadcast a defective part and start shyt and spread rumors for a view
No reason to start a fuss just make a couple simple part swaps or send it to Glock and let them take care of it
We are sending it to Glock. Really wanting other Glock experts opinion on this because it’s stumped me.
serious factory defect.