My OCD (and aircraft maintenance experience) makes me torque in 3rd values to final torque. After final torque I wait for 5 minutes then give the caps light raps with plastic handle of screwdriver to relieve / disperse thread tension then final torque one more time.
I reallly love your attention to detail…..my go to slogan when the kids were growing up was, Detail…Detail….Detail…..and you certainly pay attention to detail, great to see…all best, take care….👍👌🤙🫶🙏
I witness mark the base/caps before disassembly to keep paired as they are bored during manufacture then split. Also prevents you from putting caps on 180° out. The marks are with a paint pen ( : for front & : : for rear).
I make sure to keep the same caps/bases together. I just keep them separated in different bins on my vise but marking them is certainly more foolproof.
I do the same with colored paint pens. Especially if I am lapping those rings and marring that scope to that gun permanently. 👍 I like blue and red. Red for rear. Blue for barrel. And later I can tell which rings I lapped and which I can switch around to different guns without new rings. If you try lapping… be careful… you take too much off… which is easy easy to do…. You won’t have any clamping force left on the rings. They will touch both sides and then they are trash. Be in. Very good light if you do it and watch close.
Great video but I am curious why you did not lap the rings? A nice rifle like that and a good quality scope, I definitely would have lapped those 2 piece rings for even better scope to rings contact. Very nice setup though!
Do you use an extended torx bit for those bases? I have found a standard size bit isn’t long enough to reach the screws that are in the deeper holes on those bases. Just wondering how you reach them to torque them down.
Great Video. However, an important disclaimer: Put the lens covers on the scope before you mount it. I have the same rifle and scope. I mounted it perfectly, then went to add the lens covers, and I realized that you can't mount the front cover when the scope is on the rifle. OOPS.
How close can you put the rings to the bell, the center housing (on either side) and the eye piece without causing accuracy problems or even damaging a scope?
Sorry for the slow reply. As long as the ring doesn’t touch the bell, you should be fine. I personally keep them at least 1/8” from the crease but try for 1/4” away if my eye relief allows.
I think about getting one like yours same scope. I'll follow up with your videos for a full set up on this gun. What kind of suppressor are you going to use on this gun. I am just curious. Here is my list of suppressor DOMINUS-K-SR ULTRA-338 ULTRA-5-6.5MM ULTRA-5-6.5MM-HUB ULTRA-5-HUB ULTRA-9-6.5MM ULTRA-9-6.5MM-HUB. What do you think is the the best fit for this gun.
Definitely the easiest was if your turret is level. I couldn’t find a level point on my swaro z5 even when rotating the turret, is just isn’t level. The only way I could do it was with a plumb bob and the wheeler barrel level.
Call them. They will tell you what to get if you have a common scope. Vortex, Leopold etc. They were not 100% sure on my Sheperd scope but will go with mediums on my 50mm objective lense for now and go higher if needed
I tried leveling from the scope rings like you did after torqueing all the screws down, but the level on the scope rings and the level right before the action isn't leveling alike. I bought Talley rings which I believe they manufacture Browning scope rings. Do you think the Talley tolerance spec isn't good? Maybe I should get a set from Browning? I have a Mountain Pro X Bolt by the way. Not sure what I'm doing wrong at this point.
same thing here. I verified the action and barrel top flute and magazine cutout in the stock are all true to each other so that’s what I leveled my scope too
I have a issue as well with the Talley rings on my x bolt 7mm. When I check level from the rear to the front ring they are different from each other. Any help is appreciated
I use the lowest rings possible for all my hunting rifles. In this case they were actually the low rings. I’ve had to use medium rings on various setups though.
Sometimes. If the scope lays in the rings and I can slide/twist it without any friction, they don’t need to be lapped. If the scope gets hung up a little, I’ll lap the rings. I suppose I should have mentioned that in the video.
My OCD (and aircraft maintenance experience) makes me torque in 3rd values to final torque. After final torque I wait for 5 minutes then give the caps light raps with plastic handle of screwdriver to relieve / disperse thread tension then final torque one more time.
That is a really good idea! Much better than a few twists around the horn until it torques over. Thanks!
I reallly love your attention to detail…..my go to slogan when the kids were growing up was, Detail…Detail….Detail…..and you certainly pay attention to detail, great to see…all best, take care….👍👌🤙🫶🙏
Thank you!
Very educational-thank you
I witness mark the base/caps before disassembly to keep paired as they are bored during manufacture then split. Also prevents you from putting caps on 180° out.
The marks are with a paint pen ( : for front & : : for rear).
I make sure to keep the same caps/bases together. I just keep them separated in different bins on my vise but marking them is certainly more foolproof.
I do the same with colored paint pens. Especially if I am lapping those rings and marring that scope to that gun permanently. 👍
I like blue and red.
Red for rear.
Blue for barrel.
And later I can tell which rings I lapped and which I can switch around to different guns without new rings.
If you try lapping… be careful… you take too much off… which is easy easy to do…. You won’t have any clamping force left on the rings. They will touch both sides and then they are trash. Be in. Very good light if you do it and watch close.
Great video but I am curious why you did not lap the rings? A nice rifle like that and a good quality scope, I definitely would have lapped those 2 piece rings for even better scope to rings contact. Very nice setup though!
What is the hight of your rings I just ordered the same scope I just don't know what size rings to go with
You grandfather was in the Army during WWII. He told me that one time he got in trouble for calling his "rifle" a "gun".
Do you use an extended torx bit for those bases? I have found a standard size bit isn’t long enough to reach the screws that are in the deeper holes on those bases. Just wondering how you reach them to torque them down.
Yes...I have an extended bit which I should have mentioned. I think I got it at Lowe's.
Great Video. However, an important disclaimer: Put the lens covers on the scope before you mount it. I have the same rifle and scope. I mounted it perfectly, then went to add the lens covers, and I realized that you can't mount the front cover when the scope is on the rifle. OOPS.
How close can you put the rings to the bell, the center housing (on either side) and the eye piece without causing accuracy problems or even damaging a scope?
Sorry for the slow reply. As long as the ring doesn’t touch the bell, you should be fine. I personally keep them at least 1/8” from the crease but try for 1/4” away if my eye relief allows.
I think about getting one like yours same scope. I'll follow up with your videos for a full set up on this gun. What kind of suppressor are you going to use on this gun. I am just curious. Here is my list of suppressor DOMINUS-K-SR ULTRA-338 ULTRA-5-6.5MM ULTRA-5-6.5MM-HUB ULTRA-5-HUB ULTRA-9-6.5MM ULTRA-9-6.5MM-HUB. What do you think is the the best fit for this gun.
Definitely the easiest was if your turret is level. I couldn’t find a level point on my swaro z5 even when rotating the turret, is just isn’t level. The only way I could do it was with a plumb bob and the wheeler barrel level.
What height Browning scope rings were those?
Those are the low mounts.
is the scope length over 50mm and 34 mm maintube? Are you suppose to get 34mm High mount as recommended by Browning?
I mean diameter sorry about that
Call them. They will tell you what to get if you have a common scope. Vortex, Leopold etc. They were not 100% sure on my Sheperd scope but will go with mediums on my 50mm objective lense for now and go higher if needed
I tried leveling from the scope rings like you did after torqueing all the screws down, but the level on the scope rings and the level right before the action isn't leveling alike. I bought Talley rings which I believe they manufacture Browning scope rings. Do you think the Talley tolerance spec isn't good? Maybe I should get a set from Browning? I have a Mountain Pro X Bolt by the way. Not sure what I'm doing wrong at this point.
same thing here. I verified the action and barrel top flute and magazine cutout in the stock are all true to each other so that’s what I leveled my scope too
I have a issue as well with the Talley rings on my x bolt 7mm. When I check level from the rear to the front ring they are different from each other. Any help is appreciated
I see you installed a 44mm. Did you install the low scope mounts?
Yes. Low mounts.
@@HuntTheBreakTV
I just purchased a Browning X Bolt Hunter in the walnut stock.
I was worried about the scope might be to close to the bolt.
You use low or med. Rings
I use the lowest rings possible for all my hunting rifles. In this case they were actually the low rings. I’ve had to use medium rings on various setups though.
You don’t lap the rings?
Sometimes. If the scope lays in the rings and I can slide/twist it without any friction, they don’t need to be lapped. If the scope gets hung up a little, I’ll lap the rings. I suppose I should have mentioned that in the video.
I don't lap everytime either, but I do check alignment everytime with the dowels that come with the kit.
@@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649 Right, I did the same and the dowels were perfect. No need to lap.
I did all by eye😂..dont have fancy equipment just to adjust scope once per 5 years maybe
Well not perfectly level. Looked low on. My left.
You didnt lap the rings?