I am also restoring a 95 GS bought from a friend, the frustrating thing is that after spending alot of money on it, it won't be worth what I spent. These just don't hold value like the airheads, but I'm retired so it's fun to have work to do.😄Good luck with the rest of your resto!
Hahaha I was thinking the same the other day 😄I won’t get back what I’m spending on it but it’s been great fun to play with. Thanks very much, enjoy yours too 😁👍🏻
Great videos Mal, very helpful, mind you I'm getting more anxious about what I've missed on my own bike! hopefully she won't need much done. Was running well at the end of last year but sitting up since, fingers crossed!
Hi Niall, thanks for making your way through the vids 😄👍🏻. I’ve got my fingers crossed for you, but yeah, hopefully she’ll carry on as she left off and you can get back to enjoying the ride 👌🏻.
Thanks for this helpful video. Would have liked to have heard the engine start up after the new pushrods fitted. I have a noise on my 1150 GS (2003 with 16k miles) but not sure as yet what it is. I haven’t plucked up the courage to do the valve clearances yet. I believe there is some tensioner that also is good to replace that can make these pesky boxer ticking noises. Never seen one of these torque angle gadgets before, very nifty. Thanks again. PS: did you notice less engine (valve) noise after this procedure, you didn’t say if it was a noise or a precaution to motivate the change. Maybe you did and I missed it. Cheers
Hi!! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I would’ve liked to have started the engine too but there was still a lot of work to be done after this video so the bike was still a few weeks away from being started. When I first bought the bike and started it there was a ticking sound coming from the engine, but now the work has been done, the bike runs nice and smooth with no ticking. The culprit was one of the pushrods, as it had a loose cap, so I’m glad I changed all four as it’s future proof’d the bike (hopefully). As you mention, another ticking culprit is the cam chain tensioner but this bike had the aftermarket hydraulic version fitted instead of a spring so I didn’t need to do anything there thankfully. If it helps you with a bit of confidence, I had never done anything like this before. I just took my time and made sure everything had the correct gap tolerances and all the nuts and screws were torqued correctly. Once you start disassembly, you’ll see how easy it is, it’s just the valve setting that tests the patience 😄.
Hi mate, just a question, not a statement. As I have ordered the pushrods upgrade and about to do this job I have watched a couple of videos on this task, other people have applied a 180 turn to the pre torqued bolt (the one you turn 90 deg using the torque angle tool). I am not sure which is correct but I’m guessing another 90 deg of rotation will be quite a difference to final torque applied hence my seeking to clarify what amount is correct. TIA advance for your reply. Slange Var fae a very cold and driech Scotland. As always - many thanks for your great videos.
Hello mate, I remember doing everything the manual said but to save any confusion, here’s the piece from the manual: Tighten the mounting nuts (Figure 38) to the preliminary torque of 20 Nm (15 ft.-lb.) in a crisscross pattern. With a degree wheel (Figure 39) tighten the nuts an additional 90° in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the nuts a final time an additional 90° in a crisscross pattern. Hopefully that’ll help, I think in the video I only showed one set of 90 degree turns and then said I was going to do the second set of 90 degree turns off camera because it was quicker without the camera in the way 😄 Iechyd da! I hope all is well and the job goes smooth 👍🏻
@@MALVSMACHINE Thanks for your reply mate. Thanks for clarifying and apologies I missed the part re the 2nd 90 deg turn. At least I understand it for when I tackle the job myself next week. Slange mate
I wouldn’t think so unless the previous owner has done nothing with it. The only reason I done all this is because I wanted a project to play with, and this bike had no service history and 54k miles. It’s been good fun though and a good way to learn about the bike.
You are correct my friend. At the time, I figured that I didn’t undo the two bolts at the top so it would be fine but really, I should’ve done the valve clearance after undoing and re-torquing the head bolts. For my sanity, I did rotate the wheel and check the clearance of the valves on both sides before before fitting the rocker covers, and all was ok so I got away with it this time 👍🏻.
Hello! To adjust, loosen the bolts slightly that hold the rocker shaft bearing (I think that’s what it’s called, it’s been a while 😄?) and then gently tap it either up or down to get it within the tolerances and then tighten the bolts back up, and then check the tolerances again just to make sure they’re still good 👍🏻.
I dont want to be an ass, but the nuts you tighten are the cylinder head nuts. These need to be set at a start torque of 20nm, then 90 degrees, and then another 90 degrees.... I have the original bmw manual
Hi, you’re not being an ass, it’s good to raise awareness if a process is not correct. At around 4:32 I tighten 4 nuts to 20 Nm in a crisscross pattern and then use a torque angle gauge to further tighten 90 degrees, twice. I don’t show the whole process but I explain that I’ll tighten the other two bolts then repeat the process as it’s quicker for me to do off camera 😁. Then I move on to refit the rocker cover.
I am also restoring a 95 GS bought from a friend, the frustrating thing is that after spending alot of money on it, it won't be worth what I spent. These just don't hold value like the airheads, but I'm retired so it's fun to have work to do.😄Good luck with the rest of your resto!
Hahaha I was thinking the same the other day 😄I won’t get back what I’m spending on it but it’s been great fun to play with.
Thanks very much, enjoy yours too 😁👍🏻
Thanks!
Thank you Ross, you are too kind 🙏🏻
Love the click of a Torque Wrench 😀
Same, it’s so satisfying 😆.
To be fair and in all fairness
Great videos Mal, very helpful, mind you I'm getting more anxious about what I've missed on my own bike! hopefully she won't need much done. Was running well at the end of last year but sitting up since, fingers crossed!
Hi Niall, thanks for making your way through the vids 😄👍🏻. I’ve got my fingers crossed for you, but yeah, hopefully she’ll carry on as she left off and you can get back to enjoying the ride 👌🏻.
Thanks for this helpful video. Would have liked to have heard the engine start up after the new pushrods fitted. I have a noise on my 1150 GS (2003 with 16k miles) but not sure as yet what it is. I haven’t plucked up the courage to do the valve clearances yet. I believe there is some tensioner that also is good to replace that can make these pesky boxer ticking noises. Never seen one of these torque angle gadgets before, very nifty. Thanks again. PS: did you notice less engine (valve) noise after this procedure, you didn’t say if it was a noise or a precaution to motivate the change. Maybe you did and I missed it. Cheers
Hi!! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I would’ve liked to have started the engine too but there was still a lot of work to be done after this video so the bike was still a few weeks away from being started.
When I first bought the bike and started it there was a ticking sound coming from the engine, but now the work has been done, the bike runs nice and smooth with no ticking. The culprit was one of the pushrods, as it had a loose cap, so I’m glad I changed all four as it’s future proof’d the bike (hopefully).
As you mention, another ticking culprit is the cam chain tensioner but this bike had the aftermarket hydraulic version fitted instead of a spring so I didn’t need to do anything there thankfully.
If it helps you with a bit of confidence, I had never done anything like this before. I just took my time and made sure everything had the correct gap tolerances and all the nuts and screws were torqued correctly. Once you start disassembly, you’ll see how easy it is, it’s just the valve setting that tests the patience 😄.
Hi mate, just a question, not a statement. As I have ordered the pushrods upgrade and about to do this job I have watched a couple of videos on this task, other people have applied a 180 turn to the pre torqued bolt (the one you turn 90 deg using the torque angle tool). I am not sure which is correct but I’m guessing another 90 deg of rotation will be quite a difference to final torque applied hence my seeking to clarify what amount is correct. TIA advance for your reply. Slange Var fae a very cold and driech Scotland. As always - many thanks for your great videos.
Hello mate, I remember doing everything the manual said but to save any confusion, here’s the piece from the manual:
Tighten the mounting nuts (Figure 38) to the preliminary torque of 20 Nm (15 ft.-lb.) in a crisscross pattern.
With a degree wheel (Figure 39) tighten the nuts an additional 90° in a crisscross pattern.
Tighten the nuts a final time an additional 90° in a crisscross pattern.
Hopefully that’ll help, I think in the video I only showed one set of 90 degree turns and then said I was going to do the second set of 90 degree turns off camera because it was quicker without the camera in the way 😄
Iechyd da! I hope all is well and the job goes smooth 👍🏻
@@MALVSMACHINE Thanks for your reply mate. Thanks for clarifying and apologies I missed the part re the 2nd 90 deg turn. At least I understand it for when I tackle the job myself next week. Slange mate
@@cinematictrax8443 no problem at all mate I’m happy to help 👍🏻. You’ll cruise through it nice and easy, enjoy 👌🏻
I've found one of these, 22k miles, one owner, 22yrs old, garaged all its life. Would I still need to do the same work on it as you did on yours?
I wouldn’t think so unless the previous owner has done nothing with it.
The only reason I done all this is because I wanted a project to play with, and this bike had no service history and 54k miles. It’s been good fun though and a good way to learn about the bike.
I think you should have set valve clearance after retourquing head .
You are correct my friend. At the time, I figured that I didn’t undo the two bolts at the top so it would be fine but really, I should’ve done the valve clearance after undoing and re-torquing the head bolts. For my sanity, I did rotate the wheel and check the clearance of the valves on both sides before before fitting the rocker covers, and all was ok so I got away with it this time 👍🏻.
How do, you actually adjust the rocker clearance? Ty
Hello! To adjust, loosen the bolts slightly that hold the rocker shaft bearing (I think that’s what it’s called, it’s been a while 😄?) and then gently tap it either up or down to get it within the tolerances and then tighten the bolts back up, and then check the tolerances again just to make sure they’re still good 👍🏻.
What are those tolerances aswritten on the feeler gauge
I dont want to be an ass, but the nuts you tighten are the cylinder head nuts.
These need to be set at a start torque of 20nm, then 90 degrees, and then another 90 degrees....
I have the original bmw manual
Hi, you’re not being an ass, it’s good to raise awareness if a process is not correct.
At around 4:32 I tighten 4 nuts to 20 Nm in a crisscross pattern and then use a torque angle gauge to further tighten 90 degrees, twice. I don’t show the whole process but I explain that I’ll tighten the other two bolts then repeat the process as it’s quicker for me to do off camera 😁.
Then I move on to refit the rocker cover.
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