Coolant system: Biodegradable RV Antifreeze. Run engine on flushette (muffs) with garden hose connected to water until warm and thermostat is open. Then disconnect water and allow engine and drive to drain. Then, while engine is still warm, pour RV antifreeze into flushette. Run engine until you see RV antifreeze come out the exhaust. You will need a funnel, clear hose is best, old garden hose piece will work and male hose fitting to attach to flushette. Some will put hose in jug of RV antifreeze and allow pump to suck it up. But if your engine is larger, or an I/O it may use more than one gallon. Do not drain RV antifreeze. This forces remaining water out, dilutes any remaining water, and helps with corrosion prevention.
This is done before fogging. Video was not a maintenance video. Just winterizing. Ther are grease fittings that should be greased with correct grease per manual. If equipped with trim system, check fluid. See manual or better yet, our seasons are short. You may want an authorized dealer to winterize and perform annual maintenance. That way, if you have a problem come spring, you have someone other than yourself to make it right.
Anything that keeps oxygen away from metal helps reduce corrosion. If it all drains out-not so much. If it was an engine block that retained some of the RV coolant-then no oxygen.
I would have pulled that prop off (and maybe refinished or replaced it) and checked the prop shaft seal for fishing line. Water got into that gearcase somehow.
What about the coolant ports? This is my first winter so im trying to figure it all out. I read that you need to flush the coolant with 100% antifreeze to get any remaining water out.
Biodegradable RV Antifreeze. Run engine on flushette (muffs) with garden hose connected to water until warm and thermostat is open. Then disconnect water and allow engine and drive to drain. Then, while engine is still warm, pour RV antifreeze into flushette. Run engine until you see RV antifreeze come out the exhaust. You will need a funnel, clear hose is best, old garden hose piece will work and male hose fitting to attach to flushette. Some will put hose in jug of RV antifreeze and allow pump to suck it up. But if your engine is larger, or an I/O it may use more than one gallon. Do not drain RV antifreeze. This forces remaining water out, dilutes any remaining water, and helps with corrosion prevention.
So if I’m going out in the winter do I need to winterize my outboard? I’m going hunting with it throughout the winter and it would be stored periodically
Never winterized an outboard before and I’m in Canada so very cold winter! Thanks for this video! Just one question, what about the oil fuel that’s in the outboard?
First year boat owner, and am going to winterize now. I have a 1982 25 hp Evinrude. I assume I need to hook water up while it’s running to get the treated gas through the system so nothing burns up. With that being said and if that’s the case, would it be better to replace the lower unit gear oil after the motor is finished running and I have fogged the motor? I say this incase while the motor is running, I don’t want to take a chance of water ending up in my fresh gear oil.
Yes if you use muffs while running engine (which you should) you will be getting water in the system and possibly in the lower unit. If you lower unit take on water it could freeze. I just remove lower unit oil or put in new. Let the water drain. Run in stabil or run stabil in fuel tank in last outing of the year. Spray in fogging oil in to the cylinders. Some people run their carb dry by disconnecting the fuel line from the tank.
Still water + balkan rage + anger issues + german stare + troll face+ hawk tuah + lunchly + ksi song + adrenaline + noadrenaline + mango phonk + winter arc = those who know
It’s a good idea to make sure that you don’t store it without preparing the fuel system and gear case. The ethanol in modern gas will start to gum up without stabil or some other storage additive, and it will varnish if left for a few years. The gear case is important but for a different reason. You want to inspect it AT LEAST once a season before storage - I check it before and after storage - because if you store it with water in the system, low oil, or both, corrosion will make quick work of those intricate gears. Depending on the size of your engine, you will not have to buy gear oil too often. I have an Evinrude 2hp and a 4hp both from the 70s, and they both only take about a 2/3s cup of lube. I don’t take chances with mine considering that parts are almost nonexistent, but in the end it’s your motor. Hope this helped!
@@PurpleNinja-vn4hv much appreciate you taking the time to explain. I have a 1984 Evinrude 15hp and just about to follow this videos process. The gear lube suggested is 80w90 in this video, would you happen to know if this is universal type for all lower unit outboards?
@jag off Yes but if you fill from the top it will weep out and still be the proper level. Use just a straight hose without a screw in fitting. Like filling a differential on a vehicle.
Well for someone who doesn't know much about motors. As a girl without a man to do it. I'm trying to learn. You failed to teach in this video. Saying you spray that stuff where but have the camera so far away. Yeah. Total fail. Dumb it down a little, we came here to learn. If we knew we wouldn't need your video.
if you have water in lower pressure test it assume it's gasket seal will cost you a lower when you fog the motor runn it so it smokes a little then shut it off what a poor video
See your service manual. Most recommend fluid changes annually. It’s not hard or expensive and like the video shows it allows you to observe what is going on INSIDE the drive whether OB or I/O. Look for milky fluid or water may settle out after sitting for long periods of non-use. Metal shavings may indicate a trip to dealer is needed. Small amounts of particulate can be normal wear. Longer strands is not normal. Water in drive can be caused by multiple things: fishing line damage if seal, overheat, housing damage, etc.
I would say no... you can do them at end of season or beginning. Alot of people change lower gear oil and spark plugs at end of season cuz it's easy and then you just crank up in spring. I would change both annually regardless of when you do it.
@@dustenwalker484 don't have to change it.but you should quickly pull the drain screw out and check to see if there is water in there so it doesn't crack the lower unit if it freezes
oh ya and by letting it idle till it stalls if you know about carbs when you let it just idle your picking fuel up higher in the float bowl still leaving fuel in bottom of bowl to corrode and atrac water and when you change the lower unit oil why not change the gaskets they are two dollars while a lower will cost you 1500 bucks piss poor video
You pull the fuel line from the connector to engine so it will idle and allow remaining fuel in carb bowls to be used and THEN it starts to stall and you spray your fogging oil.
@@dustenwalker484 by pulling the fuel line and letting it run out of fuel still leaves fuel in the bowl the idle circuit is higher in the bowl than the main jet where it picks up fuel.if your worried about it run it fog it then drain the bowls.
perfect for a new boat owner!
Thanks for posting, I followed these instructions last winter for my 89 Johnson and sure enough it started right up the first time in the spring.
Excellent video, my ‘89 Evinrude 120 started first pull this year thanks to you! Following these same instructions again today for this winter
Thank you so much. your clear and simple manner communicates throughly.
This guy is great I wish i could get schooled on this stuff by him
Nicely done video!
What about any water left in the lower (pump, etc) or in the block, if you live in an area where it freezes?
@@adamscleverunThat has nothing to do with getting water out the impeller or block
It all drains out
Thanks so much makes it look so easy !
Very clear and sensible instructions.
Coolant system:
Biodegradable RV Antifreeze.
Run engine on flushette (muffs) with garden hose connected to water until warm and thermostat is open.
Then disconnect water and allow engine and drive to drain.
Then, while engine is still warm, pour RV antifreeze into flushette. Run engine until you see RV antifreeze come out the exhaust.
You will need a funnel, clear hose is best, old garden hose piece will work and male hose fitting to attach to flushette.
Some will put hose in jug of RV antifreeze and allow pump to suck it up. But if your engine is larger, or an I/O it may use more than one gallon.
Do not drain RV antifreeze.
This forces remaining water out, dilutes any remaining water, and helps with corrosion prevention.
This is done before fogging.
Video was not a maintenance video. Just winterizing.
Ther are grease fittings that should be greased with correct grease per manual.
If equipped with trim system, check fluid.
See manual or better yet, our seasons are short. You may want an authorized dealer to winterize and perform annual maintenance.
That way, if you have a problem come spring, you have someone other than yourself to make it right.
Rv anti freeze does not help with corrosion the way regular coolant/antifreeze does.
He's doin a 2 stroke.... Post in a 4 stroke vid.... 😅😅😅
@@dmwi1549coolant on a 2 stroke?
Anything that keeps oxygen away from metal helps reduce corrosion. If it all drains out-not so much. If it was an engine block that retained some of the RV coolant-then no oxygen.
Excellent guide. Thanks
I would have pulled that prop off (and maybe refinished or replaced it) and checked the prop shaft seal for fishing line. Water got into that gearcase somehow.
Good info simple and direct. Thanks
Hey there, great video. I don't have muffs - can I just use a barrel with water ti run the engine while I am fogging it? Thanks!
What about the coolant ports? This is my first winter so im trying to figure it all out. I read that you need to flush the coolant with 100% antifreeze to get any remaining water out.
Following
Biodegradable RV Antifreeze.
Run engine on flushette (muffs) with garden hose connected to water until warm and thermostat is open.
Then disconnect water and allow engine and drive to drain.
Then, while engine is still warm, pour RV antifreeze into flushette. Run engine until you see RV antifreeze come out the exhaust.
You will need a funnel, clear hose is best, old garden hose piece will work and male hose fitting to attach to flushette.
Some will put hose in jug of RV antifreeze and allow pump to suck it up. But if your engine is larger, or an I/O it may use more than one gallon.
Do not drain RV antifreeze.
This forces remaining water out, dilutes any remaining water, and helps with corrosion prevention.
@@dmwi1549 don’t listen to this. This is totally wrong. This is for inboards outboards don’t take antifreeze.
There’s no leftover water inside the motor anywhere from running it that will freeze in cold temps??
thats what im wondering!
thank you for the video's.
Shouldn’t you use new rubber washers on the gear lube screws?
Great video mate
I jus picked up an 88 Mercury Mariner 5M and I have a Mercury Force 75 both 2 strokes.....same gear lubes and other products for both?
Good video.... Nice job.....
So if I’m going out in the winter do I need to winterize my outboard? I’m going hunting with it throughout the winter and it would be stored periodically
I need those frames you have. magnetic in the middle of the eyepiece, I love it.
I've been using those for nearly 20 years. I don't go anywhere without them.
Never winterized an outboard before and I’m in Canada so very cold winter! Thanks for this video! Just one question, what about the oil fuel that’s in the outboard?
I saw another video that you disconnect the fuel line while it's running
@@benstevens2164 I went for some stabilizer fluid at my local NAPA and the guy just said he runs Seafoam through his 2 stroke for the winter instead
Thanks!!
Thanks for the video
I’d also drain the carb bowls too
He ran it dry
What about water in the motor? Or is that something i dont have to worry about on an outboard.
Just fish year round. Done 👍
First year boat owner, and am going to winterize now. I have a 1982 25 hp Evinrude. I assume I need to hook water up while it’s running to get the treated gas through the system so nothing burns up. With that being said and if that’s the case, would it be better to replace the lower unit gear oil after the motor is finished running and I have fogged the motor? I say this incase while the motor is running, I don’t want to take a chance of water ending up in my fresh gear oil.
Sprayng fogging oil into the throat of the carburetor will NOT put it into the jets in the carb.
Would sea foam spray work as a fogging spray?
Thank you
hi there I have Suzuki DF175 2008 and I got 2 questions 1- can I flush the lower unit?2- what can I flush it with?thanks
Are all the step neccessary if i just power on the motor every now and then , say once a month or once every two months for a couple of minutes?
Yes if you use muffs while running engine (which you should) you will be getting water in the system and possibly in the lower unit. If you lower unit take on water it could freeze. I just remove lower unit oil or put in new. Let the water drain. Run in stabil or run stabil in fuel tank in last outing of the year. Spray in fogging oil in to the cylinders. Some people run their carb dry by disconnecting the fuel line from the tank.
Still water + balkan rage + anger issues + german stare + troll face+ hawk tuah + lunchly + ksi song + adrenaline + noadrenaline + mango phonk + winter arc = those who know
My two-stroke has an integrated oil reservoir for the fuel. What should be done with that? Do I need to empty it?
Nothing needs to be done to the oil injection system.
That prop looks like it went through a war!
I run my mercury 25 1983 model year round lol us steelhead fisherman thrive in the cold lol
try doing that in North Dakota or Minnesota, we have up to 2 feet of ice
Wd40 on everything
Can anyone tell me whether I need to do this process even if I'm keeping the outboard in my heated home?
this is basically every year service
It’s a good idea to make sure that you don’t store it without preparing the fuel system and gear case.
The ethanol in modern gas will start to gum up without stabil or some other storage additive, and it will varnish if left for a few years.
The gear case is important but for a different reason. You want to inspect it AT LEAST once a season before storage - I check it before and after storage - because if you store it with water in the system, low oil, or both, corrosion will make quick work of those intricate gears.
Depending on the size of your engine, you will not have to buy gear oil too often. I have an Evinrude 2hp and a 4hp both from the 70s, and they both only take about a 2/3s cup of lube. I don’t take chances with mine considering that parts are almost nonexistent, but in the end it’s your motor.
Hope this helped!
@@PurpleNinja-vn4hv much appreciate you taking the time to explain. I have a 1984 Evinrude 15hp and just about to follow this videos process. The gear lube suggested is 80w90 in this video, would you happen to know if this is universal type for all lower unit outboards?
yes
Why not fill the gear oil from the top plug?
@jag off Yes but if you fill from the top it will weep out and still be the proper level. Use just a straight hose without a screw in fitting. Like filling a differential on a vehicle.
I think because you can get air pockets that way.
Well for someone who doesn't know much about motors. As a girl without a man to do it. I'm trying to learn. You failed to teach in this video. Saying you spray that stuff where but have the camera so far away. Yeah. Total fail. Dumb it down a little, we came here to learn. If we knew we wouldn't need your video.
if you have water in lower pressure test it assume it's gasket seal will cost you a lower when you fog the motor runn it so it smokes a little then shut it off what a poor video
I have about 4 hr on engine this year. Do I need to change lower gear lube?
No
See your service manual. Most recommend fluid changes annually.
It’s not hard or expensive and like the video shows it allows you to observe what is going on INSIDE the drive whether OB or I/O.
Look for milky fluid or water may settle out after sitting for long periods of non-use. Metal shavings may indicate a trip to dealer is needed. Small amounts of particulate can be normal wear. Longer strands is not normal.
Water in drive can be caused by multiple things: fishing line damage if seal, overheat, housing damage, etc.
WATER INSIDE DRIVE GEAR LUBE CAN FREEZE SAME AS IT CAN FREEZE IN COOLANT PASSAGES. CHANGING ANNUALLY PREVENTS THIS.
If you had just recently replaced spark plugs and lower unit gear lube (in the last 2 months), is it still necessary to do so when you winterize?
I would say no... you can do them at end of season or beginning. Alot of people change lower gear oil and spark plugs at end of season cuz it's easy and then you just crank up in spring. I would change both annually regardless of when you do it.
@@dustenwalker484 don't have to change it.but you should quickly pull the drain screw out and check to see if there is water in there so it doesn't crack the lower unit if it freezes
Spraying fogging oil into the throat of the carburetor will NOT get it into the jets in the carb.
I guess running it without water will be ok? for that wee bit of time/
Never run without water
No. You need to put muffs and a garden house on your motor.
Best way to winterize a boat motor is to move somewhere warmer.
oh ya and by letting it idle till it stalls if you know about carbs when you let it just idle your picking fuel up higher in the float bowl still leaving fuel in bottom of bowl to corrode and atrac water and when you change the lower unit oil why not change the gaskets they are two dollars while a lower will cost you 1500 bucks piss poor video
You pull the fuel line from the connector to engine so it will idle and allow remaining fuel in carb bowls to be used and THEN it starts to stall and you spray your fogging oil.
@@dustenwalker484 by pulling the fuel line and letting it run out of fuel still leaves fuel in the bowl the idle circuit is higher in the bowl than the main jet where it picks up fuel.if your worried about it run it fog it then drain the bowls.