It's possible that the coil is failing. I've seen ignition coils work fine until they heat up. Don't rule out a dirty carburetor. They can cause all sorts of weird issues and it's easy to clean it out just to be safe.
Then there is only one way the cam sprocket can bolt to the camshaft. If the mark on the cam lines up with the mark on the head, and the mark on the flywheel lines up with the mark on the case, then the cam is timed correctly.
@pablojre ...(and the exhaust) was nearly perfect. Redid them both for peace of mind, tripple checking everything as I did it. Now the engine has all the power it use to have. Great top and bottom end power. Only problem now though is a clicking noise. I ran the engine without the valve covers (only for 3 seconds) and it didn't go away, nor did it seam to get louder. Any ideas? Thanks again, your vids are great!
i have an 86 honda engine and there is no marks anywhere??? did the previous owner put them on wrong/after market parts? it runs like it just came off the showroom,nut i can't find any marks??? it has the pullstart flywheel/startingcup thingy in the left side,not the straight flywheel.
Great Video can you help me please .I did my timing .and now I can't turn my fly wheel one full sircel gets stuck .? Did I do something Rong on the timing? Thanks new Subscriber
Cam sprocket is free to move when the bolts are not attached (unlike flywheel which has permanent place where it sits). So instead of watching for the valves to set the timing, why do we need to set that dot on the sprocket to be align with that mark ???
The relative position of the crank and cam must be correct. This is only achieved by aligning the crank T mark with the notch in the case at the same time as the dot on the cam sprocket is aligned with the notch in the head. The three bolt cams have offset holes so that it is not possible to position the cam sprocket wrong on the cam. The two bolt cams have holes 180 degrees apart. Those sprockets can be put on 180 degree off. However, since the cam spins half the speed of the crank, 180 degrees on the cam is 360 degrees on the crank. Since these engines use a wasted spark ignition, no harm comes from installing the cam sprocket 180 degrees off of the cam.
i have a 88 kit in mine, i bought it that way. But it has always tapped at every rpm. What do you think that would be? Even with the motor off if i move the rotor back and forth i can here it.
Is there only one way the cam can go.I went through the procedures you subscribed and my engine seems to be opposite as far as the "T" on crankshaft being free and and stay in one place on the compression stroke. Mine will not stay in one place, or under pressure at "T " on flywheel ,when valves or rockers are not moving ,which I thought should be the compression stroke. And when free at "T" on flywheel valves or rockers were moving.This seemed opposite as you described.
You know.... i feel pretty idiot right now.. I went to get the right tools for the job from my friend and noticed that wow how could have i missed those marks :D Running well now, Thanks for helpful video! :)
What happens if the timing is set during valve overlap instead of on the compression stroke? Will it still run? Sorry for the nub question (I'm a computer programmer, just starting to learn auto mechanics) and a buddy of mine has a chinese Baja DR50 (70cc honda copy). We just did the timing and the engine runs, but it has no top-end power. It starts to make a bubbley sound and cut out a bit, guaranteed not the rev limiter. Wrong timing or just needs valve adjustment? Thanks
Can I ask you a question? I have a st50 (1977) original Honda motorcycle (has almost an identical motor as yours). And when I take it for a trip after a while the engine stotters at high revs. And when I shift and pas neutral (semi-automatic) the engine dies. Could you point me in the right direction where I can begin my search for the problem The problem only occurs when the engine is hot actually.
Hey Vincent, how you doing. I just came across your comment here tonight, nine whole years after you posted it. Well I have the exact same problem with my little 1988 Honda Cub 90. I've changed the spark plug and air filter, even cleaned if carb, but the problem persists. I get maybe 20 mins of good engine performance and then I get spluttering and power loss. It gets progressively worse then and I have to change up gears way too early to keep moving. Did you ever get an answer to your question, or solve the issue in the end? I couldn't see any in this thread. Thanks 👍
if your off half a tooth the cam gear is worn and needs replaced or it wont run very well. ask me how I know this. ha.. great vid alex keep em coming. many people say the cam chain is stretched and thats bullshit/ try to stretch a chain and see how much you can stretch it. nadda
john smith no there is a tensioner to compensate for wear,, not stretching from heat.. thats a hardened steel chain. its not going to stretch in 160 degree 30 weight
You need a timing light. And yes you adjust the points to open earlier or later to change the ignition timing.
Hey, don't feel bad. The important thing is you figured out the issue.
Both valves are adjusted with the engine at TDC compression stroke.
Messed up is a broad description. So yes and no. If the timing is off, yes, if the points are actually in need of replacement then no.
It marks when the engine should fire. When using a timing light the F should line up with the notch in the case.
It's possible that the coil is failing. I've seen ignition coils work fine until they heat up. Don't rule out a dirty carburetor. They can cause all sorts of weird issues and it's easy to clean it out just to be safe.
Then there is only one way the cam sprocket can bolt to the camshaft. If the mark on the cam lines up with the mark on the head, and the mark on the flywheel lines up with the mark on the case, then the cam is timed correctly.
@pablojre ...(and the exhaust) was nearly perfect. Redid them both for peace of mind, tripple checking everything as I did it. Now the engine has all the power it use to have. Great top and bottom end power. Only problem now though is a clicking noise. I ran the engine without the valve covers (only for 3 seconds) and it didn't go away, nor did it seam to get louder. Any ideas? Thanks again, your vids are great!
i have an 86 honda engine and there is no marks anywhere??? did the previous owner put them on wrong/after market parts? it runs like it just came off the showroom,nut i can't find any marks??? it has the pullstart flywheel/startingcup thingy in the left side,not the straight flywheel.
Great Video can you help me please .I did my timing .and now I can't turn my fly wheel one full sircel gets stuck .? Did I do something Rong on the timing? Thanks new Subscriber
Cam sprocket is free to move when the bolts are not attached (unlike flywheel which has permanent place where it sits). So instead of watching for the valves to set the timing, why do we need to set that dot on the sprocket to be align with that mark ???
The relative position of the crank and cam must be correct. This is only achieved by aligning the crank T mark with the notch in the case at the same time as the dot on the cam sprocket is aligned with the notch in the head. The three bolt cams have offset holes so that it is not possible to position the cam sprocket wrong on the cam. The two bolt cams have holes 180 degrees apart. Those sprockets can be put on 180 degree off. However, since the cam spins half the speed of the crank, 180 degrees on the cam is 360 degrees on the crank. Since these engines use a wasted spark ignition, no harm comes from installing the cam sprocket 180 degrees off of the cam.
@@TheAlexManVideos thank u so much for the help
i have a 88 kit in mine, i bought it that way. But it has always tapped at every rpm. What do you think that would be? Even with the motor off if i move the rotor back and forth i can here it.
All the Honda's have timing marks on the original parts. Check that the cam sprocket wasn't installed backwards.
Is there only one way the cam can go.I went through the procedures you subscribed and my engine seems to be opposite as far as the "T" on crankshaft being free and and stay in one place on the compression stroke.
Mine will not stay in one place, or under pressure at "T " on flywheel ,when valves or rockers are not moving ,which I thought should be the compression stroke.
And when free at "T" on flywheel valves or rockers were moving.This seemed opposite as you described.
You know.... i feel pretty idiot right now.. I went to get the right tools for the job from my friend and noticed that wow how could have i missed those marks :D Running well now, Thanks for helpful video! :)
Ok and is there a other way to check without a timing light. And if it is off how do I adjust that is it just the points I adjust?
What year, make, model is the bike you are working on?
hi this vignesh . I am struggle to find out the clearance value of intake and exhaust value for this Honda engine?
So i have 91' honda monkey z50j and it doesnt have any of those markers so how should adjust the valves without those marks to align
loose valves might cause the problems you are having. Hope this helps you out.
tb 88 race head kit or the stroker kit? whats the best bang for the buck in your opinion?
i have an xr50 03 and i put into 1st and it starts ticking then i put it int 2nd and 3rd its fine
And I have a kazuma viper it don’t have marks for stator it have the on the flywheel
If the points are messed up will I still have strong spark?
How do you get the cam sprocket cover off?
what is the other mark on the flywheel used for?
What happens if the timing is set during valve overlap instead of on the compression stroke? Will it still run? Sorry for the nub question (I'm a computer programmer, just starting to learn auto mechanics) and a buddy of mine has a chinese Baja DR50 (70cc honda copy). We just did the timing and the engine runs, but it has no top-end power. It starts to make a bubbley sound and cut out a bit, guaranteed not the rev limiter. Wrong timing or just needs valve adjustment? Thanks
Can you check compression strokes if there’s no compression
Compression stroke is always the same. It's when the piston goes up after the intake valve closes.
Hey alex ! i was wondering if you have knowlegde about the atc 200 from 1979 engine?
please anser my fly wheel moves when i put the t mark it cant stand in one spot... what do i do'
??
guys can the timing be off like a tooth or a half tooth. like a tooth higher then the notch. let me know guys thanks
Thank You!~ You have made my kids day!
Thanks for this video, dude. I was havin heck. but im not sure that i have it right on because the carb is still spittin at low rpm.
Can I ask you a question? I have a st50 (1977) original Honda motorcycle (has almost an identical motor as yours). And when I take it for a trip after a while the engine stotters at high revs. And when I shift and pas neutral (semi-automatic) the engine dies. Could you point me in the right direction where I can begin my search for the problem The problem only occurs when the engine is hot actually.
Hey Vincent, how you doing. I just came across your comment here tonight, nine whole years after you posted it. Well I have the exact same problem with my little 1988 Honda Cub 90. I've changed the spark plug and air filter, even cleaned if carb, but the problem persists. I get maybe 20 mins of good engine performance and then I get spluttering and power loss. It gets progressively worse then and I have to change up gears way too early to keep moving. Did you ever get an answer to your question, or solve the issue in the end? I couldn't see any in this thread. Thanks 👍
If you timing is off will it cause no compression
If it's far enough off you could bend a valve, and that would cause no compression.
how do u adjust the cam chain tensioner
I am trying to figure that out also did u figure it out yet if so can you tell me how. I would really appreciate it
@@Eli-tg5xz yes I figured it out. Lol.
Bloody fantastic your a champion man. 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺💪💪💪💪💪💪💪👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you so much works!!!👍👍👍
if your off half a tooth the cam gear is worn and needs replaced or it wont run very well. ask me how I know this. ha.. great vid alex keep em coming. many people say the cam chain is stretched and thats bullshit/ try to stretch a chain and see how much you can stretch it. nadda
john smith no there is a tensioner to compensate for wear,, not stretching from heat.. thats a hardened steel chain. its not going to stretch in 160 degree 30 weight
cam chains stretch buddy, fact.
Excelent vid dawg 👍👍
so i go to T and then what thats the part i cant understand
Glad to hear it.
Remove the 2 or 3 bolts that hold it on.
Good explaining.
I've never worked on one so it would need to be a very generic question for me to be able to help.
Thank you, very helpful. Brad
Works like a charm now ;D thanks!
this guy said specifically it is soposed to be like that... as long as it is above the notch it is okay half a tooth off
That's exactly right.
Id just want to ask 1 more thing. Do you have to spin the engine when adjusting the other valve or just get it top dead center and adjust both?
I think it is a 77 or 78 Honda Z50J.
camera moving around WAY TOO much....brb i gotta go puke cause im dizzy
can you do more videos like this please =]
theyre good
thanks
Yea I meant off on timing cause I got spark fuel and good compression but the dam bike won't start
I don´t work on Chinese engines. You are on your own.
thx :) this helped a lot :D
0.002 inches for the intake, 0.003 inches for the exhaust.
forced adds are a no view