Because of the size and location of the mason jar I was able to place a cheap magnetic stir plate underneath. It did amazingly well keeping the yeast in suspension during primary and fermentation was stead throughout. Also if you connect a shutoff valve to the hose you can eliminate the mason jar after primary and just use the bottling attachment for draining. You can then remove future sediment without introducing additional oxygen. Love the Catalyst system. Lots of options I didn’t see anyone else mention or attempt yet.
Good idea as long as it the trub isn't stuck in place and refuses to drain. That is a common problem with some other plastic conical fermenters with small dump valves which is why the Catalyst stands out with its large butterfly valve.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Early in my home brewing "career", I had an airlock blow off my carboy. It made a mess on the floor, but I managed to save the batch. In any case, there is no downside, whatsoever, to using the 'tube and bucket' method to replace the airlock. It's the only way, in my opinion. (And it smells so good bubbling up through there!)
You avoid aeration when replacing the jar by installing the sample tap. With the tap you can fill the jar with wort prior to reattaching. With the jar full, when you open the valve you’ll get minimal air entering the system.
Great review Larry! Each time you changed the jar you also introduced oxygen in the beer. That's a problem with systems like that. What you can do is to fill the jar with beer or boiled water when putting it back. Or try to push out the air with CO2. But that's a little easier with the fast ferment. Cheers!
I was on the fence about buying this product, but I think I will give it a try after my next batch. I want to upgrade from 1 gallon batches to 5. I will probably still bottle for a while. Thanks for the information. I will definitely subscribe.
Excellent video, very helpful. You kinda miss the point of the conical Fermenter, by default the drain vale is close. only when fermentation 70% done you can start removing the trub which are very beneficial to the yest and Fermenter process. next is removing yeast (secondary fermentation) all in all you work layer by layer keeping the drain valve close til you need to remove bottom layer off.
I recently got one of these in a Craiglist batch of brew gear. It came with a purpose made jacket with handles duplicating what a brew hauler could do. So I know that is something they sell. Also, I am sure you can use a standard Brew Hauler if you just adjust the straps a bit. Hope this helps.
Nice review. I've been keeping an eye on these. I have a Fast Ferment conical that I love. My only complaint is the small 1" opening to the collection bulb. If you allow to much trub (hop bits and proteins) into the fermenter, you will need to take steps to clear it during fermentation. The larger opening on the Catalyst is an improvement. But the Fast Ferment has a 7 gallon capacity and a domed top which in my experience and use makes blow-off tubes unnecessary and a normal airlock is all you need. I also like the clear material used by the Catalyst. It allows you to see just how much trub you have, how fermentation is progressing, etc. The Fast Ferment is more opaque. You can sort of see through it, but not clearly. The Catalyst costs twice as much as the Fast Ferment, $199 compared to $99. The advantage is that it comes with a stand. The Fast Ferment has 2 different sized stands available and will run you about $40 for either. The Fast Ferment does have the advance of an included wall mount, and an optional carrying strap. Hope this helps anyone trying to decide between the two.
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry I haven't noticed any problems with the small amount of air that gets released from the collection jar. If my understanding is correct, the air released is lighter than the CO2 produced from the fermentation process. It would naturally rise to the highest point in the system and thus would be the very first thing expelled from the airlock or blow-off tube. I also find that the turbulence created from the rising air helps to dislodge some of the trub collected on the conical part of the fermenter thus allowing it to settle in the jar. Gentle tapping around the base seems to help do the same, but I think the rising air bubbles causes more to fall and also helps release CO2 built up in solution in your beer. Really liking your videos and the way you take time to explain some of the smaller things others take for granted. Cheers.
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry I have a Fermentasaurus (conical fermenter made here in Australia). Similar deal, but the fermentasaurus can be pressurized. What I do when reattaching the trub/yeast collection bottle is to purge it with CO2 (from my kegerator). This way the chance of oxygen getting into the beer is almost nil. I also use CO2 to transfer it from the fermenter (which is already under pressure at this point, and the beer is already carbonated) into the keg (already purged with CO2). Since getting this thing, the quality of my beer has increased significantly, and it saves me so much time - I don't have to syphon the beer into secondary, can harvest yeast and get the next batch fermenting instantly, and don't even need to wait for the beer to carbonate - it carbonates naturally while fermenting under pressure. The down side is that I waste a lot of CO2 - but I don't really mind, it's pretty cheap around here.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY oh now I hope so too haha I will have to check that when I receive it in the mail today. What should I look for to identify whether it is an older or newer unit?
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Thanks I will do some research and try to identify. I am looking forward to your livestream tomorrow and enjoyed you on the Hoppy Hour! Can I be your new neighbor if you're giving away gear hahaha
I am currently fermenting my 2nd batch with this system... I found that on higher gravity beers starting out with a 32oz wide mouth mason jar works pretty well. It seems using a stepped system will work. Start with 32oz, and then go to a 8-16oz when going into secondary. I racked to a carboy on my first one to free up for another batch, so I am curious on how well the sediment on the conical walls will settle when left in extended secondary. I haven't bottled directly from the fermenter yet, but I almost think the bottling attachment is better suited for a clean way rack to a secondary need be. Also for extract brewers doing partial boils, make sure the ball valve is closed until all your wort is in and filled to the markers. The fill markers are only accurate with ball valve closed as they will not account for the volume of the mason jar.
I have brewed with mine a few times and have a larger mason jar to collect the trub. I will wait 12 hrs after I transfer the beer to the fermenter and remove the trub / mason jar and repeat before I pitch my yeast. I do this to minimize the beer loss. I will typically only remove 1 more time after primary fermentation has stopped to harvest the yeast.
I will chill down to 80 deg and transfer to the fermentor. cover it up and put an airlock on it- this keeps the wort safe while it clears up and chills down overnight to the ideal pitching temp. I have not had any off flavors. So far it has worked like a charm.
I have the same system and one thing I think is the biggest deficit with it is trub when dry hopping. As you mentioned its meant to be an all in one method but when you do hop additions for the dry hopping of beers you cannot use a bad to hold hops due to the butterfly valve. This has caused me to also lose quite a bit of beer.
I have one of these also and ran into the same problem with the lid design. I think it's bass ackwards. It should have been domed rather than sunken in. Absolutely needs more head space, unless you like ending up with 4 gallons of beer. The second major flaw is the lid gasket. It takes all 3 hands to get the gasket back on after the lid is removed. Other than that, I like it, :-) Have read very few reviews where people acknowledged the 2 big flaws of this system. Thanks Larry, looking forward to reading more of your reviews.
try using a hop spider and hop bags (boil and dry-hopping). No trub when transferring to fermenter or racking out to kegs/bottles. ss chronical with the blow off cane was a great investment for me. has trub/yeast valve and separate racking valve. plus pressurized transfers to kegs or brite tanks
if you ever want to lager in the system (where you don't have to secondary ferment transfer, or you don't have a fridge large enough for a fermenter) there is something called a brew jacket, that is a cooling system and they make one that fits the Catalyst.
They also make a custom built coil and lid for this that allows you to circulate glycol through it. I use it with mine and it's phenom. Love it so much. I hope they don't go out of business and maybe even make another version and a bigger, 10 gallon one.
Thanks Larry, great video! I think I may purchase one in the future because for my really hoppy beers there's just so much trub and it makes transferring/bottling a pain. The having to use a blow off tube bummed me out too :( For $200 you would think we could do away with the need for blow off tubes.
Larry, awesome video. I love all of your stuff. One suggestion about blow hoses and foaming. Have you considered using an anti-foam agent? I just bottled a honey ale in my Catalyst and used Craft a Brew's anti foam drops. Didn't need a blow hose at all.
Good review...To me it seems a lot of hassle and mess removing the trub time and again. I am using 7 gal fermonsters now. They are cheap and I can fit 2 of them in my chest freezer/ferment chamber.
Hi Larry, thanx for another intresting video. Concerning the catalyst I have one comment that i think could be applied to all conical fermentors with a trub removal system. I am concerned that if one removes several times the jar with the trub the effect would be to introduce a considerable amount of oxygen into the beer. Personally I do not transfer to a secondary anymore , and leave the beer in the primary all the time (i think u mentioned in a video that u do the same). I use a regular fermentor with a tap. Bottling from the tap and leaving all the trub behind works just fine.
Intresting. It makes sense that big bubbles get through rapidly and out of the vessel. I never though of it in that way. In any case, as you also suggest, I think that the knowledge that one can leave the beer in the primary all the time, takes out part of the supposed advantages with conicals. Still thay are useful for collecting yeast and for the trub concerned. I will find and watch the video you mentioned
This is a good step up from a 5 gal carboy but certainly not a good end game. Even though this is rated at 6.5g, it really is only a 5 gallon fermenter. For the $, this is a deal. Now that they offer an add on ball lock valve (sample port) for around $25, I still find this a very viable option for home brewers looking to graduate from a bucket or carboy. It would be nice if there were a 10 or 15 gallon option as well. Perhaps even a redesign of the lid to give a little more head space, especially for those that like to brew very active beer styles, like Hefe/Weiss beers. Keep up the good work Larry!
They've redesigned the lid seal already and it works great. Never had my version 2 come off unintentionally. And I agree that I wish they made a 10 gallon version. This thing is surprisingly versatile and expandable and I absolutely love mine. Considering buying a second once the kiddos get a bit older and I setup my garage brew space better.
I use a 6.5 gallon carboy, and just recently had to use a blow off tube. Never give up on the blow off tube. I'd be more concerned about the bubbles being introduced from opening and closing that valve.
If you have this out in the open you may want to make a cover that wraps around the outside to keep sunlight from hitting the beer, so it doesn't skunk.
They have two custom built covers you can buy from them. One with handles and one that is neoprene for when you are using their glycol chilling coils with it. I have both and they both work fantastic.
@@joshuapinter You can get blackout cloth (curtain liner fabric) pretty cheap at Joanne's fabrics. I use it as a projector screen but it would also make a great anti-skunking carboy cover and bottle cover. The only downside is as a man it is embarrassing being seen walking into or out of Joanne fabrics.
Very good review, great job! I like the pros cons approach. I'm in the stainless steel buckets right now (Chapmann) but I'd love to try one of these out...just can't drop the money on it. I live in Germany (military overseas), I bet the German home brewers would love this! :-) Thanks for sharing!
LOL. When I saw you aerate with pure oxygen for two minutes, then pitch with a starter, and then only attach an airlock, I thought you were insane. I paused the video to write you a comment, but decided to let the video play before posting. A few seconds later, you attached a blow-off. LOL Yeah. That ish would have exploded at my house. Glad you caught it without incident.
I was convinced by my LHBS owner that I wasn't supposed to have too large of a vessel because extra head-space was bad. I was brewing in large buckets with air locks, but to switch to all-glass fermentation (5-gallon, filled all the way to the neck), I had to switch to a 2" blow-off. To me, I felt like I was graduating to a blow-off system, because although krausen can lend bitterness, I was told it was an unclean, masking sort of bitterness. Filling the 5-gal carboy to the neck ensures that all krausen exits the vessel during primary. The beer I'm drinking at this moment is the best beer I've made in my life. Could be anecdotal evidence. Just funny to hear an alternate point of view that positions blow-off as a step back. LOL I thought I was cool!
Larry, great video! Thank you! How do you think this would work for smaller, 2.5 gallon batches? Would the extra head space introduce too much oxygenation or would the CO2 just push it out?
I think a lot of the Catalyst but one of the issues I have with it is, the gasket on the lid often will come loose if i try to remove the the top to add secondary hops, or flavor additions... Have you run into this? it's a pain when all you want to do is crack it open a bit and put in the additions.. Then I end up having to re-sanitize the lid, gasket, airlock... and putting the gasket back on can be a little timely as it doesnt always cooperate.
Nice review. Especially the frequently dry commentary in text bubbles. :) I too wonder at the longevity of the plastic in the dishwasher .. I feel like even glass measuring cups have been scratched in there over the years, abrasive detergents or something. That yeast at the end of kegging .. I wonder if the cone angle is too shallow - it certainly looks shallower than most of the SS conicals (except maybe from ssbrewtech)., maybe that's why not everything is settling down the cone into the jar.
Great video, also really good points when talking about the geometry. Is it possible that the conical design is 5 gallons from the top to where the bottom starts to angle down towards the trub jar? I've never seen one in person, but it seems like its a little more hassle than convenience.
Really enjoyed learning more about the Catalyst. My friends and I have been brewing and filming for a while for our channel. We're getting to a point where we want to upgrade, so we can do 5 gallon batches easier. How is the Catalyst after a handful of brews or a year later? Does it still hold up?
I actually gave this and all my other conical style fermenters away. This model had a real bad problem with the seal coming off and hard to put back on. Since I don’t bother with dump valves usually anyway, I went back to using regular bucket style fermenters.
We did our first five gallon last week and the glass carboy makes me really nervous lol. Feels like a lot can go wrong with that much beer fermenting. Think we will go the bucket route until we find something we like. Thank you for the quick response.
There are more Bucket style options that just a bucket and carboy. I have several products that are Bucket style; a FermZilla All Rounder, a Fermenter King Snub Nose, a Fermenter King Jr, a Spike Flex, and a Kegmenter.
Great video Larry. I know it's been one year but I'm wondering if you are still using this system? I think I'm going to get it and just put a giant jar underneath and wait for 2 and a 1/2 weeks before dumping it and do it all at once so I lose minimal beer
Can you give it a quick stir with a sanitized spoon to assist the trub in collecting in the jar? Or is that a bad idea. Asking because im about to bottle my first batch. Thanks. Adam
Hi, I think that if you just leave the attachment Bowl and place an valve in the hose you will not have to take off several times and sanitize then, maybe it could help.
When you use a conical like this with a jar attached to the bottom, is the valve left open below the entire time? Or only when you remove the trube/yeast?
I don't think any oxygenation occurred due to the Co2 in the blow-off tube, as long as the end of the tube remained under water. I would think that only Co2 was drawn back into the vessel. It would be safe to remove more trub after seeing additional Co2 exhaust bubbles.
+LiveHealthyWealthy, I think you're missing the point. The Ball jar was full of oxygen, and when it was affixed to the fermentor, it was empty, and when the valve opened up, the oxygen from the Ball jar bubbled up through the beer, pushing CO2 out into the blow-off. The beer touched O2, and that's the concern. Larry said it didn't hurt anything, so whatever, but that's what Kenneth was referring to.
I apologize if what I am about to say sounds bad, I don't mean for it to, but I cannot take your critique seriously. You say using a blowoff tube is taking a step backwards, but that is a technique used by most professional breweries. But that's neither here nor there. You would most likely have been able to get away with using a simple airlock had you not poured that extra galling of sludge into the fermentor. You racked the wort off of the spent hops and excess mash, why add it back? You left yourself with only two quarts of room at the top. Any decent fermentation would guarantee the need for a blowoff tube with that little space between the beer and the lid. As for dry hopping, I think using the removable jar to dispose of the spent yeast before adding the hops to the second ferment would work fine. It truly seemed to me that any trouble or problems you had with the system were brought on by yourself. I don't know if it was a one time issue of laziness or poor habits or bad brewing practices, but it seems they are easily corrected mistakes. The one issue I have with the system is that the unit is clear and thus the beer is open to exposure to light.
The towel I wrap around my glass carboy is pretty opaque, especially when I use a beach towel and get a couple of wraps. No reason why that shouldn't work here too, and no special care required as might be for a custom jacket if it has zips or crap or weird materials. Re buckling, I think he said it pushed the airlock out first .. I've enjoyed this phenomena 5 or 6 years ago with a simple bucket fermenter, I called that batch "Brown Spots on the Ceiling".
I've noticed my stickons seem to lie as well. More so as they get older. Unlike me, of course. Does this whole comment sound like that classic oxymoron, "I always lie"? heh
Geoffrey Splendorio about halfway through this video, I had anticipated you would have airlock suck back issues once you started bottling or kegging. To me, this negates one of the major benefits to using a conical, specifically being Oxidation medication. You're obviously sucking air back in when that happens, thereby exposing the beer to oxygen. I'm sure there's got to be a way to retrofit this so that you're doing it under an inert gas blanket, but that's additional expense/complication and yet another potential vector for infection.
the same surface area of liquid is exposed to oxygen for the entire process of decating, both on top of the liquid in the fermenter as the level goes down, and on top of the liquid you are decanting in the keg as the level goes up. there is no additional exposure of the liquid to oxygen by this method
How easy would it be to add oxygen to the fermenter when you remove the airlock to dump the trub? Doesn't that suck in oxygen or does the co2 on the bottom keep it from touching the beer?
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Yeah that's the major downside introducing so much oxygen. I think it might be fixed by slowly opening the dump valve while having your co2 hooked up through the stopper at like 2psi.
Thank you for this great video. I recently receive one for my birthday, but I'm having a lot of trouble unscrewing the mason jar because the adapter moves along with it. Each time I've changed the jar, I've needed another person to hold the adapter as I'm unscrewing the jar. There appears to be a great deal of pressure build up between the jar changes. I've tried leaving the jar a little loose, but it leaks. Do you have any tips for me? You make the jar removal look so easy.
wonder if you could even further reduce the introduction of oxygen into your ferment by loosening the air lock when you add the sanitized jar back on for collection and letting the trube drain down a bit before locking the jar on or pre filling with a sterile water/wart that would also reduce the amount of fluid loss? thoughts?
Great video thanks. Late to the party I know but have you filled the Catalyst with water then transferred to the 6.5 carboy to verify which one will hold more/less?
It sure would which is why I still prefer old fashion low cost carboys over something pricey like this. If siphoning then there’s really no point in spending the money on this.
With the Catalyst and the FastFermentor i notice you take off the settled yeast and then replace the bottom jar with an empty one. My question is since that jar is on the bottom, when you open the valve won't that oxygen oxidize your brew especially since it is traveling from the bottom up. I'm new at this, if anyone can address my curiosity.
didn't want to read through all the comments so not sure if this was suggested... what about lining the inside with a sanitized mesh bag when transferring after worth chilling... will solve the multiple trub drains
Thanks Larry, good video. Can you please tell me the brand of glass carboy you are using in this video. It looks to be thicker than most carboys I see for sale.
Yes but not as much as you might think. The large bubbles pass right through and out. Large bubbles have less surface area. Less surface area means less contact with beer during the brief time they are in contact. This lack of surface area and contact time is why you need to use a diffuser stone when you oxygenate wort prior to fermentation for example.
The Fast Fermenter is more inexpensive than the Catalyst. Also with the wall hanging brackets that come with the unit then keeping it up and out of the way. I switched from buckets to it.
Thanks for sharing this little film New brewer here Why do they call it a catalyst fermentor. Is it just a name or does the shape make for a faster ferment I will probably use demijohn , or something like the anvil But this does look cool Thanks again Cheers
I use whole hops, no bag or hop spider and a braided ss mesh screen from a supply line in the bottom of brew kettle and whirlpool before it goes through cf chiller. Always nice and clear wort in the fermenter.
Great video and very informative! I want to get one, but I'll wait til they make the "improvements" you mentioned. Just one thing Larry, in the video I see you're wearing socks....perhaps some kind of foot gear to dress it up a little? Thanks for the honest review! mark, Toledo, OH
You must live in a very clean house! Mine is rather dirty....it's so dirty that people wipe their shoes when they leave. (Joan Rivers on Johnny Carson show).
Fair point, though simple enough to fix, degas the water, or if you want something that'll do the trick easier and cheaper, carbonate the water with either CO2 or N2. If the water is carbonated with either of those gases, then the amount of O2 it can hold is reduced by the amount of those gases in suspension.
Temperature pressure enzyme additional information. Laggering time'. How do you check specific gravity before and after The cone should have carbonation ports . Beer port with Ball Valve above cone slanted. Temperature and pressure gauges point's Spunding Valve above attached. Totality pressure vessels Attachment. .. ..
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY ah, I just caught a glance over your shoulder. I grew up near Champaign and am a lifelong Illini fan. Thanks for the great videos. I've just begun my pomebrewing journey. I actually bottled my first batch today.
Because of the size and location of the mason jar I was able to place a cheap magnetic stir plate underneath. It did amazingly well keeping the yeast in suspension during primary and fermentation was stead throughout. Also if you connect a shutoff valve to the hose you can eliminate the mason jar after primary and just use the bottling attachment for draining. You can then remove future sediment without introducing additional oxygen. Love the Catalyst system. Lots of options I didn’t see anyone else mention or attempt yet.
Good idea as long as it the trub isn't stuck in place and refuses to drain. That is a common problem with some other plastic conical fermenters with small dump valves which is why the Catalyst stands out with its large butterfly valve.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Early in my home brewing "career", I had an airlock blow off my carboy. It made a mess on the floor, but I managed to save the batch. In any case, there is no downside, whatsoever, to using the 'tube and bucket' method to replace the airlock. It's the only way, in my opinion. (And it smells so good bubbling up through there!)
You avoid aeration when replacing the jar by installing the sample tap. With the tap you can fill the jar with wort prior to reattaching. With the jar full, when you open the valve you’ll get minimal air entering the system.
Great tip, thank you!
This is what i'm running into. I'm not quite sure by what you mean. What sampling tap do you use?
@@killswitchh CAB now sells a separate tap you can install onto the fermenter by drilling a hole for it.
Great review Larry! Each time you changed the jar you also introduced oxygen in the beer. That's a problem with systems like that. What you can do is to fill the jar with beer or boiled water when putting it back. Or try to push out the air with CO2. But that's a little easier with the fast ferment. Cheers!
Brewing tips aside I'd love to meet Larry, he seems like a good guy
I was on the fence about buying this product, but I think I will give it a try after my next batch. I want to upgrade from 1 gallon batches to 5. I will probably still bottle for a while. Thanks for the information. I will definitely subscribe.
You’re welcome. However, for a lower price, there are better options available nowadays that can do more like pressure fermentation.
Excellent video, very helpful.
You kinda miss the point of the conical Fermenter, by default the drain vale is close. only when fermentation 70% done you can start removing the trub which are very beneficial to the yest and Fermenter process. next is removing yeast (secondary fermentation)
all in all you work layer by layer keeping the drain valve close til you need to remove bottom layer off.
I recently got one of these in a Craiglist batch of brew gear. It came with a purpose made jacket with handles duplicating what a brew hauler could do. So I know that is something they sell. Also, I am sure you can use a standard Brew Hauler if you just adjust the straps a bit. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I have one of those jackets as well. Did a follow up video on it.
Nice review. I've been keeping an eye on these. I have a Fast Ferment conical that I love. My only complaint is the small 1" opening to the collection bulb. If you allow to much trub (hop bits and proteins) into the fermenter, you will need to take steps to clear it during fermentation. The larger opening on the Catalyst is an improvement. But the Fast Ferment has a 7 gallon capacity and a domed top which in my experience and use makes blow-off tubes unnecessary and a normal airlock is all you need. I also like the clear material used by the Catalyst. It allows you to see just how much trub you have, how fermentation is progressing, etc. The Fast Ferment is more opaque. You can sort of see through it, but not clearly. The Catalyst costs twice as much as the Fast Ferment, $199 compared to $99. The advantage is that it comes with a stand. The Fast Ferment has 2 different sized stands available and will run you about $40 for either. The Fast Ferment does have the advance of an included wall mount, and an optional carrying strap. Hope this helps anyone trying to decide between the two.
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry I haven't noticed any problems with the small amount of air that gets released from the collection jar. If my understanding is correct, the air released is lighter than the CO2 produced from the fermentation process. It would naturally rise to the highest point in the system and thus would be the very first thing expelled from the airlock or blow-off tube. I also find that the turbulence created from the rising air helps to dislodge some of the trub collected on the conical part of the fermenter thus allowing it to settle in the jar. Gentle tapping around the base seems to help do the same, but I think the rising air bubbles causes more to fall and also helps release CO2 built up in solution in your beer. Really liking your videos and the way you take time to explain some of the smaller things others take for granted. Cheers.
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry
I have a Fermentasaurus (conical fermenter made here in Australia). Similar deal, but the fermentasaurus can be pressurized.
What I do when reattaching the trub/yeast collection bottle is to purge it with CO2 (from my kegerator). This way the chance of oxygen getting into the beer is almost nil.
I also use CO2 to transfer it from the fermenter (which is already under pressure at this point, and the beer is already carbonated) into the keg (already purged with CO2). Since getting this thing, the quality of my beer has increased significantly, and it saves me so much time - I don't have to syphon the beer into secondary, can harvest yeast and get the next batch fermenting instantly, and don't even need to wait for the beer to carbonate - it carbonates naturally while fermenting under pressure. The down side is that I waste a lot of CO2 - but I don't really mind, it's pretty cheap around here.
Just picked up one of these that was used 5-7 times for $50 couldn't pass it up, cannot wait to use it!
Good deal. I hope you got one of the newer models. The original version had issues getting the lid seal to stay on.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY oh now I hope so too haha I will have to check that when I receive it in the mail today. What should I look for to identify whether it is an older or newer unit?
No idea. I had one of the old models only. It’s long gone. Gave it to neighbor.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Thanks I will do some research and try to identify. I am looking forward to your livestream tomorrow and enjoyed you on the Hoppy Hour! Can I be your new neighbor if you're giving away gear hahaha
I am currently fermenting my 2nd batch with this system... I found that on higher gravity beers starting out with a 32oz wide mouth mason jar works pretty well. It seems using a stepped system will work. Start with 32oz, and then go to a 8-16oz when going into secondary. I racked to a carboy on my first one to free up for another batch, so I am curious on how well the sediment on the conical walls will settle when left in extended secondary.
I haven't bottled directly from the fermenter yet, but I almost think the bottling attachment is better suited for a clean way rack to a secondary need be.
Also for extract brewers doing partial boils, make sure the ball valve is closed until all your wort is in and filled to the markers. The fill markers are only accurate with ball valve closed as they will not account for the volume of the mason jar.
Larry did you really put a CAD drawing of the fermenters on here? Awesome! Great job comparing the two. Thanks for sharing.
I have brewed with mine a few times and have a larger mason jar to collect the trub. I will wait 12 hrs after I transfer the beer to the fermenter and remove the trub / mason jar and repeat before I pitch my yeast. I do this to minimize the beer loss. I will typically only remove 1 more time after primary fermentation has stopped to harvest the yeast.
I will chill down to 80 deg and transfer to the fermentor. cover it up and put an airlock on it- this keeps the wort safe while it clears up and chills down overnight to the ideal pitching temp. I have not had any off flavors. So far it has worked like a charm.
I have the same system and one thing I think is the biggest deficit with it is trub when dry hopping. As you mentioned its meant to be an all in one method but when you do hop additions for the dry hopping of beers you cannot use a bad to hold hops due to the butterfly valve. This has caused me to also lose quite a bit of beer.
?? Use magnets to attach the hops in a bag to the lid. Then just remove the magnets when you want to dump the hops in.
I have one of these also and ran into the same problem with the lid design. I think it's bass ackwards. It should have been domed rather than sunken in. Absolutely needs more head space, unless you like ending up with 4 gallons of beer. The second major flaw is the lid gasket. It takes all 3 hands to get the gasket back on after the lid is removed. Other than that, I like it, :-)
Have read very few reviews where people acknowledged the 2 big flaws of this system.
Thanks Larry, looking forward to reading more of your reviews.
try using a hop spider and hop bags (boil and dry-hopping). No trub when transferring to fermenter or racking out to kegs/bottles. ss chronical with the blow off cane was a great investment for me. has trub/yeast valve and separate racking valve. plus pressurized transfers to kegs or brite tanks
Another great video. Thanks for the review.
if you ever want to lager in the system (where you don't have to secondary ferment transfer, or you don't have a fridge large enough for a fermenter) there is something called a brew jacket, that is a cooling system and they make one that fits the Catalyst.
They also make a custom built coil and lid for this that allows you to circulate glycol through it. I use it with mine and it's phenom. Love it so much. I hope they don't go out of business and maybe even make another version and a bigger, 10 gallon one.
Thanks Larry, great video! I think I may purchase one in the future because for my really hoppy beers there's just so much trub and it makes transferring/bottling a pain. The having to use a blow off tube bummed me out too :( For $200 you would think we could do away with the need for blow off tubes.
Larry, awesome video. I love all of your stuff. One suggestion about blow hoses and foaming. Have you considered using an anti-foam agent? I just bottled a honey ale in my Catalyst and used Craft a Brew's anti foam drops. Didn't need a blow hose at all.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY fair enough.
Please, keep making videos. I love the channel and am learning a lot from it. Joyous brewing to you.
Craft a Brew just came out with a conical jacket/sleeve ours are on order.
Good review...To me it seems a lot of hassle and mess removing the trub time and again. I am using 7 gal fermonsters now. They are cheap and I can fit 2 of them in my chest freezer/ferment chamber.
Thanks for your review. Was curious about this for test batches.
It looks really nice.
Hi Larry, thanx for another intresting video. Concerning the catalyst I have one comment that i think could be applied to all conical fermentors with a trub removal system. I am concerned that if one removes several times the jar with the trub the effect would be to introduce a considerable amount of oxygen into the beer. Personally I do not transfer to a secondary anymore , and leave the beer in the primary all the time (i think u mentioned in a video that u do the same). I use a regular fermentor with a tap. Bottling from the tap and leaving all the trub behind works just fine.
Intresting. It makes sense that big bubbles get through rapidly and out of the vessel. I never though of it in that way. In any case, as you also suggest, I think that the knowledge that one can leave the beer in the primary all the time, takes out part of the supposed advantages with conicals. Still thay are useful for collecting yeast and for the trub concerned. I will find and watch the video you mentioned
Fair review Larry
This is a good step up from a 5 gal carboy but certainly not a good end game. Even though this is rated at 6.5g, it really is only a 5 gallon fermenter. For the $, this is a deal. Now that they offer an add on ball lock valve (sample port) for around $25, I still find this a very viable option for home brewers looking to graduate from a bucket or carboy. It would be nice if there were a 10 or 15 gallon option as well. Perhaps even a redesign of the lid to give a little more head space, especially for those that like to brew very active beer styles, like Hefe/Weiss beers. Keep up the good work Larry!
They've redesigned the lid seal already and it works great. Never had my version 2 come off unintentionally. And I agree that I wish they made a 10 gallon version. This thing is surprisingly versatile and expandable and I absolutely love mine. Considering buying a second once the kiddos get a bit older and I setup my garage brew space better.
You should try the FastFerment, the only downside is the lack of a stand and it is not transparent, but I think it is an upgrade to that fermenter.
I use a 6.5 gallon carboy, and just recently had to use a blow off tube. Never give up on the blow off tube.
I'd be more concerned about the bubbles being introduced from opening and closing that valve.
This would work great for my cider.
Excellent review, Larry! You are one neat brewer!
If you have this out in the open you may want to make a cover that wraps around the outside to keep sunlight from hitting the beer, so it doesn't skunk.
They have two custom built covers you can buy from them. One with handles and one that is neoprene for when you are using their glycol chilling coils with it. I have both and they both work fantastic.
@@joshuapinter You can get blackout cloth (curtain liner fabric) pretty cheap at Joanne's fabrics. I use it as a projector screen but it would also make a great anti-skunking carboy cover and bottle cover.
The only downside is as a man it is embarrassing being seen walking into or out of Joanne fabrics.
Thanks for the video, man. Nice review.
Very good review, great job! I like the pros cons approach. I'm in the stainless steel buckets right now (Chapmann) but I'd love to try one of these out...just can't drop the money on it. I live in Germany (military overseas), I bet the German home brewers would love this! :-) Thanks for sharing!
buy a couple and see them to the germans and make some MONAYYYY
LOL. When I saw you aerate with pure oxygen for two minutes, then pitch with a starter, and then only attach an airlock, I thought you were insane. I paused the video to write you a comment, but decided to let the video play before posting. A few seconds later, you attached a blow-off. LOL Yeah. That ish would have exploded at my house. Glad you caught it without incident.
I was convinced by my LHBS owner that I wasn't supposed to have too large of a vessel because extra head-space was bad. I was brewing in large buckets with air locks, but to switch to all-glass fermentation (5-gallon, filled all the way to the neck), I had to switch to a 2" blow-off. To me, I felt like I was graduating to a blow-off system, because although krausen can lend bitterness, I was told it was an unclean, masking sort of bitterness. Filling the 5-gal carboy to the neck ensures that all krausen exits the vessel during primary. The beer I'm drinking at this moment is the best beer I've made in my life. Could be anecdotal evidence. Just funny to hear an alternate point of view that positions blow-off as a step back. LOL I thought I was cool!
Larry, great video! Thank you! How do you think this would work for smaller, 2.5 gallon batches? Would the extra head space introduce too much oxygenation or would the CO2 just push it out?
I am really tempted to buy this but I was wondering if I could dry hop in the mason jar ? Would it be possible?
I think a lot of the Catalyst but one of the issues I have with it is, the gasket on the lid often will come loose if i try to remove the the top to add secondary hops, or flavor additions... Have you run into this? it's a pain when all you want to do is crack it open a bit and put in the additions.. Then I end up having to re-sanitize the lid, gasket, airlock... and putting the gasket back on can be a little timely as it doesnt always cooperate.
Nice review. Especially the frequently dry commentary in text bubbles. :)
I too wonder at the longevity of the plastic in the dishwasher .. I feel like even glass measuring cups have been scratched in there over the years, abrasive detergents or something.
That yeast at the end of kegging .. I wonder if the cone angle is too shallow - it certainly looks shallower than most of the SS conicals (except maybe from ssbrewtech)., maybe that's why not everything is settling down the cone into the jar.
Great video, also really good points when talking about the geometry. Is it possible that the conical design is 5 gallons from the top to where the bottom starts to angle down towards the trub jar? I've never seen one in person, but it seems like its a little more hassle than convenience.
Really enjoyed learning more about the Catalyst. My friends and I have been brewing and filming for a while for our channel. We're getting to a point where we want to upgrade, so we can do 5 gallon batches easier. How is the Catalyst after a handful of brews or a year later? Does it still hold up?
I actually gave this and all my other conical style fermenters away. This model had a real bad problem with the seal coming off and hard to put back on.
Since I don’t bother with dump valves usually anyway, I went back to using regular bucket style fermenters.
We did our first five gallon last week and the glass carboy makes me really nervous lol. Feels like a lot can go wrong with that much beer fermenting. Think we will go the bucket route until we find something we like. Thank you for the quick response.
There are more Bucket style options that just a bucket and carboy. I have several products that are Bucket style; a FermZilla All Rounder, a Fermenter King Snub Nose, a Fermenter King Jr, a Spike Flex, and a Kegmenter.
Great video Larry. I know it's been one year but I'm wondering if you are still using this system? I think I'm going to get it and just put a giant jar underneath and wait for 2 and a 1/2 weeks before dumping it and do it all at once so I lose minimal beer
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY what are you using now if you don't mind letting me know
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY cool thank you Larry!
So did you just dump in your stir bar as well? How did you get it out or just collect it when the fermentation is completed and racking to the keg?
In your opinion, what is the smallest batch (Of Cider) can you make with this system? 1 Gal, 2 Gal, 3 Gal... ?
Can you give it a quick stir with a sanitized spoon to assist the trub in collecting in the jar? Or is that a bad idea. Asking because im about to bottle my first batch. Thanks. Adam
Craftabrew.com sells a black carrying bag. Try only 5 gallons and you will have better control with the overflow.
Hi, I think that if you just leave the attachment Bowl and place an valve in the hose you will not have to take off several times and sanitize then, maybe it could help.
When you use a conical like this with a jar attached to the bottom, is the valve left open below the entire time? Or only when you remove the trube/yeast?
Excellent job, great review.
Do you feel that you are inadvertently oxygenating when you change out the drain bottle from the bottom when you re-set the valve?
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry thanks Sir, I'll look into it.
I don't think any oxygenation occurred due to the Co2 in the blow-off tube, as long as the end of the tube remained under water. I would think that only Co2 was drawn back into the vessel. It would be safe to remove more trub after seeing additional Co2 exhaust bubbles.
+LiveHealthyWealthy, I think you're missing the point. The Ball jar was full of oxygen, and when it was affixed to the fermentor, it was empty, and when the valve opened up, the oxygen from the Ball jar bubbled up through the beer, pushing CO2 out into the blow-off. The beer touched O2, and that's the concern. Larry said it didn't hurt anything, so whatever, but that's what Kenneth was referring to.
Ah, I got you. I thought he purged the Ball Jar with Co2 first...
i really appreciate your video.
by any chance, anyone try using this fermenter for winemaking?
thanks for your time and comments
I apologize if what I am about to say sounds bad, I don't mean for it to, but I cannot take your critique seriously. You say using a blowoff tube is taking a step backwards, but that is a technique used by most professional breweries. But that's neither here nor there. You would most likely have been able to get away with using a simple airlock had you not poured that extra galling of sludge into the fermentor. You racked the wort off of the spent hops and excess mash, why add it back? You left yourself with only two quarts of room at the top. Any decent fermentation would guarantee the need for a blowoff tube with that little space between the beer and the lid. As for dry hopping, I think using the removable jar to dispose of the spent yeast before adding the hops to the second ferment would work fine. It truly seemed to me that any trouble or problems you had with the system were brought on by yourself. I don't know if it was a one time issue of laziness or poor habits or bad brewing practices, but it seems they are easily corrected mistakes. The one issue I have with the system is that the unit is clear and thus the beer is open to exposure to light.
The towel I wrap around my glass carboy is pretty opaque, especially when I use a beach towel and get a couple of wraps. No reason why that shouldn't work here too, and no special care required as might be for a custom jacket if it has zips or crap or weird materials.
Re buckling, I think he said it pushed the airlock out first .. I've enjoyed this phenomena 5 or 6 years ago with a simple bucket fermenter, I called that batch "Brown Spots on the Ceiling".
I've noticed my stickons seem to lie as well. More so as they get older. Unlike me, of course.
Does this whole comment sound like that classic oxymoron, "I always lie"? heh
Geoffrey Splendorio about halfway through this video, I had anticipated you would have airlock suck back issues once you started bottling or kegging.
To me, this negates one of the major benefits to using a conical, specifically being Oxidation medication. You're obviously sucking air back in when that happens, thereby exposing the beer to oxygen. I'm sure there's got to be a way to retrofit this so that you're doing it under an inert gas blanket, but that's additional expense/complication and yet another potential vector for infection.
the same surface area of liquid is exposed to oxygen for the entire process of decating, both on top of the liquid in the fermenter as the level goes down, and on top of the liquid you are decanting in the keg as the level goes up. there is no additional exposure of the liquid to oxygen by this method
It really depends what you are comparing it to. It is a step backwards when compare to the grain father conical fermenter, for example.
How big of a metal pot is needed for the steeping and boiling process?
How easy would it be to add oxygen to the fermenter when you remove the airlock to dump the trub? Doesn't that suck in oxygen or does the co2 on the bottom keep it from touching the beer?
Air will get pulled through the airlock or airlock opening if you remove the airlock.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Yeah that's the major downside introducing so much oxygen. I think it might be fixed by slowly opening the dump valve while having your co2 hooked up through the stopper at like 2psi.
@@killswitchh if keeping out air of your concern, you’d be better off with a pressure capable fermenter.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Not trying to sound like an ass but shouldn't all brewers be concerned with not introducing oxygen to the fermenter?
Thank you for this great video. I recently receive one for my birthday, but I'm having a lot of trouble unscrewing the mason jar because the adapter moves along with it. Each time I've changed the jar, I've needed another person to hold the adapter as I'm unscrewing the jar. There appears to be a great deal of pressure build up between the jar changes. I've tried leaving the jar a little loose, but it leaks. Do you have any tips for me? You make the jar removal look so easy.
You could try a strap wrench from a hardware or auto parts store.
Can you purge the jar of oxygen? If not, how do you stop or restrict the oxygen in the jar entering the brew after emptying the trub?
Great Review Larry classy videoThank for that keep up the good work.
Did you use a paint strainer or just through pellets in?
What's your favorite fermenter to use?
Very helpful video!
How tall is it with stand? I'm wondering if it will fit in my fermentation chamber?
wonder if you could even further reduce the introduction of oxygen into your ferment by loosening the air lock when you add the sanitized jar back on for collection and letting the trube drain down a bit before locking the jar on or pre filling with a sterile water/wart that would also reduce the amount of fluid loss? thoughts?
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY that's fair if can really be done all at the end anyways with minimal effect on beer
Does the plastic retain the smell from the last brew into the next like the normal plastic buckets do.
I don’t recall having any problem with it.
Great video thanks. Late to the party I know but have you filled the Catalyst with water then transferred to the 6.5 carboy to verify which one will hold more/less?
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Thanks!
Sir,
Where did you buy the catalyst fermentation system?
should i buy this,what ya think?
I have that fermenter and have never used a blow off hose.
Your batch sizes must be smaller than mine or your fermentations less vigorous.
I don't brew but want to get into it.
Wouldn't syphon from Top save mucking around with sediment.?
It sure would which is why I still prefer old fashion low cost carboys over something pricey like this. If siphoning then there’s really no point in spending the money on this.
Did you harvest the yeast?
Would be nice if i could get this in the UK ?
would this work for kit brew to
I'd like some info on your aeration equipment.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY Thank you. Seems simple.
With the Catalyst and the FastFermentor i notice you take off the settled yeast and then replace the bottom jar with an empty one. My question is since that jar is on the bottom, when you open the valve won't that oxygen oxidize your brew especially since it is traveling from the bottom up. I'm new at this, if anyone can address my curiosity.
Wow this video is about a year old, yet you took the time out of your day to address my question. Thank you sir! You definitely have my subscription!
Hello. What keg is that you are emptying the catalyst into?
A corny keg.
didn't want to read through all the comments so not sure if this was suggested... what about lining the inside with a sanitized mesh bag when transferring after worth chilling... will solve the multiple trub drains
I dry hopped a batch with whole hops so I just wrapped a hop bag around the funnel before I screwed it in for bottling
Are you an Autodesk Inventor user? I noticed your models of the two fermenters
Thanks Larry, good video. Can you please tell me the brand of glass carboy you are using in this video. It looks to be thicker than most carboys I see for sale.
Okay, one more question, please. Is it stamped as being made in Italy? Thanks.
can i get this in the uk
Aren’t you introducing oxigen everytime you connect and disconnect the the trub removal jar?
Yes but not as much as you might think. The large bubbles pass right through and out. Large bubbles have less surface area. Less surface area means less contact with beer during the brief time they are in contact.
This lack of surface area and contact time is why you need to use a diffuser stone when you oxygenate wort prior to fermentation for example.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY oh, I see, thanks for your explanation. I always see your videos because you are very good explaining the process in a neat manner.
hey Larry, you do so much reviews,if you were to invent your own complete system what would you invent for your self with they reviews you have done?
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry true that. Thank you for responding.
Can you extend your air trap up 3-4+. inches from the lid?
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry I just thought you can create some head space between the foam and the bong thing with a piece of pipe..
The Fast Fermenter is more inexpensive than the Catalyst. Also with the wall hanging brackets that come with the unit then keeping it up and out of the way. I switched from buckets to it.
Thanks for sharing this little film
New brewer here
Why do they call it a catalyst fermentor.
Is it just a name or does the shape make for a faster ferment
I will probably use demijohn , or something like the anvil
But this does look cool
Thanks again
Cheers
catayst is the brand
Give details of technical support aspects
The yeast you used is what caused you to have to use a blowoff hose.
One question, Catalyst or Fermentasaurus??
in order to eliminate Trub I just use a nylon bag to throw my hops in during the boil. It saves me lots of tasty brew.
I use whole hops, no bag or hop spider and a braided ss mesh screen from a supply line in the bottom of brew kettle and whirlpool before it goes through cf chiller. Always nice and clear wort in the fermenter.
Please, also send out your recipes for any of the BBQ videos if available. Nothing like a nice cool Homebrew with some Good Q, Slaw, an Baked Beans!
Great video and very informative! I want to get one, but I'll wait til they make the "improvements" you mentioned. Just one thing Larry, in the video I see you're wearing socks....perhaps some kind of foot gear to dress it up a little? Thanks for the honest review! mark, Toledo, OH
You must live in a very clean house! Mine is rather dirty....it's so dirty that people wipe their shoes when they leave. (Joan Rivers on Johnny Carson show).
If you want to avoid adding more oxygen to your brew mid ferment, fill your ball jar with water before reattaching it to the fermenter.
Fair point, though simple enough to fix, degas the water, or if you want something that'll do the trick easier and cheaper, carbonate the water with either CO2 or N2. If the water is carbonated with either of those gases, then the amount of O2 it can hold is reduced by the amount of those gases in suspension.
Easier is not necessarily better.
No filtering?
Temperature pressure enzyme additional information. Laggering time'. How do you check specific gravity before and after
The cone should have carbonation ports . Beer port with Ball Valve above cone slanted. Temperature and pressure gauges point's
Spunding Valve above attached.
Totality pressure vessels
Attachment.
..
..
Never thought of roast beef beer
He went ahead and left loads of sanitizer bubbles in it!
any fears of oxygenation from removing the trub over and over?
I've found bigger wide mouth Mason jars work fine, too - been using a 32 oz jar as my default and that works well for one change to "secondary"
What that a Chief Illiniwek jacket?
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY ah, I just caught a glance over your shoulder. I grew up near Champaign and am a lifelong Illini fan. Thanks for the great videos. I've just begun my pomebrewing journey. I actually bottled my first batch today.
Were is Catalyst ?
Neat.
You still using it ? Or did it go to the waste side ?
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry which one do you prefer ? Do you have a video on it ?
BEER-N-BBQ by Larry great ill check them out . Thank you for your replies!
Why not cold crash? too large?
7:20 Oops you sucked up some of your drainage water when you opened the valve. Better to vent the top when you open the valve at the bottom.