That’s definitely an interesting use for it. I may have to try that on mine for a future large lager batch. The only disadvantage is the inability to use a stir plate, but with that much yeast you don’t need one.
I just bought this system with a ball valve kit. I would love to do pressure fermentation but it just isn't in the cards for me to mess with bottles of co2 and system. I'm pretty stoked about their Stasis cooler system coming out as well.
@@GenusBrewing I'd love to see a review of it. It would be my preference as someone who bottles and doesn't have space for an xtra refrigerator/fermentation chamber.
i've had a Catalyst for some months now and i really like it,yes a bit expensive but i believe it's worth it,i also have the FastFerment and also like that unit...great video guys Cheers...and remember it's 5 o'clock somewhere
When you Trub dumped, didn't it pull the sanitizer from the airlock in to the tank? I know on my ball-valved carboys this occurs unless I pull the airlock first.
I forget if we vented the top or used a waterless airlock, but there wasn't backflush into the fermenter this go around (that I can remember). With Star San we don't particularly worry about it though.
How much wort are you pitching that whole mason jar too?!? Great video Iv been doing 1gallon starters for my 1/2 bbl and 1bbl batches sometimes I brew a small beer 5 gallon batch for the 1bbl just depends on the strain
Hi Guys, have a suggestion on a topic: Perceived bitterness in beers with higher IBU counts and why. Personally, I mostly stick around mid level perceived bitterness beers like British browns, Stouts, Porters, etc. I stayed away from IPAs with their heavy bitterness, as I don't like them. Commercial examples I like Shiner bock (ibu 13), Fat Tire (18.5), Guinness (40). I will drink Sam Adams (35), but that is at the limit of what I like as I find it gets a bit bitter for me. I understand why the Stout's/etc's perceived bitterness is lower even though the IBUs are high, ex a Russian Imperial Stout (70). This is why I stayed away from hazy/juicy IPAs. The other day I tried as part of a flight at a local brewery 3 hazy IPAs all were at 55 ibu and I found them very surprisingly drinkable with a perceived bitterness probably around Fat Tire (18.5) or so. Why, are these beers with higher IBU counts coming in so low in perceived bitterness. Thanks guys.
because the hops are added at the very end of the boil or even in the Fermenter(Dry Hopping) The longer hops boil and the higher the alpha acid content, the more bitter your brew will be. look up the style NEIPA or Haze and you will see. Much like yourself, I like the taste and especially the aroma of hops but not the bitterness. Try "Juicy Goodness" by left hand brewing or Goose Island "Next Coast IPA" for a good example of hoppy but low bitteness
Depends on the glass - But with a rapid temp swing like boiling down to room temp it's always best to be safe. Borosilicate/pyrex obviously can - most mason jars are prolly ok - but I've busted enough carboys with boiling water to want to be cautious.
@John B yes, I realize that, but in the video, they said glass couldn't handle heat and avoided sanitizing it with the hot water, which is why I left that comment
It could be, but they cold crashed it during 1 hour, till it got to 66°F. I've got no experience with that kind of process, so I cannot tell you for sure.
That’s definitely an interesting use for it. I may have to try that on mine for a future large lager batch. The only disadvantage is the inability to use a stir plate, but with that much yeast you don’t need one.
Worked like a champ! We're throwing another round like that in a 5BBL batch so we'll see how she does :)
The optional ball valve sample port is a must have.
I almost bought one of these. Glad I went with an SS Brewtech bucket.
I just bought this system with a ball valve kit. I would love to do pressure fermentation but it just isn't in the cards for me to mess with bottles of co2 and system. I'm pretty stoked about their Stasis cooler system coming out as well.
Me too! I'll have to try to get them to send me one :)
@@GenusBrewing I'd love to see a review of it. It would be my preference as someone who bottles and doesn't have space for an xtra refrigerator/fermentation chamber.
i've had a Catalyst for some months now and i really like it,yes a bit expensive but i believe it's worth it,i also have the FastFerment and also like that unit...great video guys Cheers...and remember it's 5 o'clock somewhere
Cheers
you fellas think you can do a video on dialing in a brewing system?
When you Trub dumped, didn't it pull the sanitizer from the airlock in to the tank? I know on my ball-valved carboys this occurs unless I pull the airlock first.
I forget if we vented the top or used a waterless airlock, but there wasn't backflush into the fermenter this go around (that I can remember). With Star San we don't particularly worry about it though.
Great video! Thank you!
How much wort are you pitching that whole mason jar too?!? Great video Iv been doing 1gallon starters for my 1/2 bbl and 1bbl batches sometimes I brew a small beer 5 gallon batch for the 1bbl just depends on the strain
That pitch went into a 1bbl and took off like crazy. It was probably enough for a 2-3 BBL
Hi Guys, have a suggestion on a topic: Perceived bitterness in beers with higher IBU counts and why.
Personally, I mostly stick around mid level perceived bitterness beers like British browns, Stouts, Porters, etc. I stayed away from IPAs with their heavy bitterness, as I don't like them. Commercial examples I like Shiner bock (ibu 13), Fat Tire (18.5), Guinness (40). I will drink Sam Adams (35), but that is at the limit of what I like as I find it gets a bit bitter for me. I understand why the Stout's/etc's perceived bitterness is lower even though the IBUs are high, ex a Russian Imperial Stout (70). This is why I stayed away from hazy/juicy IPAs. The other day I tried as part of a flight at a local brewery 3 hazy IPAs all were at 55 ibu and I found them very surprisingly drinkable with a perceived bitterness probably around Fat Tire (18.5) or so. Why, are these beers with higher IBU counts coming in so low in perceived bitterness. Thanks guys.
because the hops are added at the very end of the boil or even in the Fermenter(Dry Hopping) The longer hops boil and the higher the alpha acid content, the more bitter your brew will be. look up the style NEIPA or Haze and you will see. Much like yourself, I like the taste and especially the aroma of hops but not the bitterness. Try "Juicy Goodness" by left hand brewing or Goose Island "Next Coast IPA" for a good example of hoppy but low bitteness
How exactly are you supposed to fill the mason jar with co2?
Use a pan when pulling jar. Cheep aluminum pan.
I'm confused, glass can not handle hot temps?
Depends on the glass - But with a rapid temp swing like boiling down to room temp it's always best to be safe. Borosilicate/pyrex obviously can - most mason jars are prolly ok - but I've busted enough carboys with boiling water to want to be cautious.
@John B yes, I realize that, but in the video, they said glass couldn't handle heat and avoided sanitizing it with the hot water, which is why I left that comment
So, when are you going to taste the „beer“?
Already did! It's not too shabby!
Genus Brewing Video or it didn‘t happen!
Is there any chance of the jar shattering if you fill it to the brim with no headspace?
what was the trub you dumped before adding the yeast?
I think it's the cold crash, like excess of protein and etc
@@brunotreichel5424 wasnt it just water and dry malt extract? Ive never dumped anything from those 2
It could be, but they cold crashed it during 1 hour, till it got to 66°F. I've got no experience with that kind of process, so I cannot tell you for sure.
Even with DME there will be some protein break from boiling and cold crashing- that's what was in the tub dump
@@GenusBrewing thanks for the reply. I usually just brew the lot
Blue shirt guy is getting tired of green shirt guys shit. Can I move there and get a apprenticeship making brew with you guys?