Agree with your other commenters, great series. As a life long woodworker, I appreciate the subtle tricks and tips you provide on SG and strip building kayaks. Thanks for sharing.
Just wanted to say well done Nick (and Bill). Your objective of explaining and demonstrating the filleting technique in more detail this time around, and the potential pitfalls to avoid, was achieved. So much so that I'm struggling to come up with any clarification questions! Very grateful for this excellent resource. Thank you so much for taking the considerable time it has required to put this together for us all.
Nick, if you were building a cedar strip canoe with a chine, would you use a similar fillet on the inside? Or do you think there's a better way to get a clean look on a highly visible area? Asking for a friend ;)
With the strip version of the Petrel Play I did add a fillet in the chine. It makes it easier for the cloth to handle the corner and reinforces the chine. It is tricky with an open boat like a canoe where the fillet is visible but, I think it may be worth it. I would do good job of cleaning and fairing the interior and then just be unapologetic about the fillet. Maybe tape off on either side to handle messes, but otherwise own it. I have milled pieces of wood with an angle to match the chine and a radius on the open edge. Essentially like 1/4-round trim molding that is custom fit to the boat shape. This does work and can look nice, but questionable as to whether it is worth the effort.
Hello Nick - thank you very much for the great video. It's really fun to watch you construct it. I have to say that I'm always looking forward to the new episodes. 👍👌Thank you for making this effort.🙏 I still have one question: isn't the upper gap shown in the video filled? It's just glued in. Is this done by the other side?
@@NickSchade Nick, I meant the edge on the two round cutouts, front and back. The Recess. There you sanded the edge at the beginning of the video. You said that the fiberglass mat would then lay down better. But I thought I saw that there was also a gap there? Maybe I saw it wrong too. I have to look again. It's difficult to describe, I'm sorry I put it so inaccurately.
Agree with your other commenters, great series. As a life long woodworker, I appreciate the subtle tricks and tips you provide on SG and strip building kayaks. Thanks for sharing.
Wonderful series Nick. This will help many.
None of these are ever going to be my most popular video, but I hope the folks who do watch them find them useful.
Just wanted to say well done Nick (and Bill). Your objective of explaining and demonstrating the filleting technique in more detail this time around, and the potential pitfalls to avoid, was achieved. So much so that I'm struggling to come up with any clarification questions!
Very grateful for this excellent resource. Thank you so much for taking the considerable time it has required to put this together for us all.
I'm glad it's working out. These videos aren't about to go viral on UA-cam, but if they are helping you, I am achieving my goal.
Nick, if you were building a cedar strip canoe with a chine, would you use a similar fillet on the inside? Or do you think there's a better way to get a clean look on a highly visible area? Asking for a friend ;)
With the strip version of the Petrel Play I did add a fillet in the chine. It makes it easier for the cloth to handle the corner and reinforces the chine.
It is tricky with an open boat like a canoe where the fillet is visible but, I think it may be worth it. I would do good job of cleaning and fairing the interior and then just be unapologetic about the fillet. Maybe tape off on either side to handle messes, but otherwise own it.
I have milled pieces of wood with an angle to match the chine and a radius on the open edge. Essentially like 1/4-round trim molding that is custom fit to the boat shape. This does work and can look nice, but questionable as to whether it is worth the effort.
Another great instructional video from Nick!
Thanks again Doug.
Good job guys! Bill is coming along nicely. What happened to the grundge cups?
The grunge cups will return next episode
Hello Nick - thank you very much for the great video. It's really fun to watch you construct it. I have to say that I'm always looking forward to the new episodes. 👍👌Thank you for making this effort.🙏
I still have one question: isn't the upper gap shown in the video filled? It's just glued in. Is this done by the other side?
I'm not sure which gap you are referring to.
@@NickSchade Nick, I meant the edge on the two round cutouts, front and back. The Recess. There you sanded the edge at the beginning of the video. You said that the fiberglass mat would then lay down better. But I thought I saw that there was also a gap there? Maybe I saw it wrong too. I have to look again. It's difficult to describe, I'm sorry I put it so inaccurately.
@@torstenzeps365 Once installed the recesses for the hatches all ended up fitting tight all the way around with no meaningful gaps.