Second time in as many videos, I have seen Bill finish pumping the epoxy and leaving off the last hardener pump. Probably won't affect the overall result, but thought I should mention it. My OCD is tweaked! Great instruction!
All the batches have hardened up fine, so I'm not worried, but I edit the video a bit so you may not see all the pumping action. Lately I've switched to my fancy pump which is more accurate and faster than the ketchup pumps.
No pumps for me. I mark cups, Pour the resin, and pump the hardener, to the marks on the cups. I really like the smaller, Cigar type rollers, over the larger black foam rollers. It seems I can move the cloth, at least for my canoes.
I intend to do a video on all the different methods of measuring I can think of. Each has its own benefits. While marked cups is a good one, it has the downside of only being good for one size batch (or however many marks you make) so if you need just a little bit to finish up, you need to mark new cups or just go with the given batch size.
Lots of folks struggle with the inside of hulls and decks. Often their problems are related to bridging. They end up adding too much epoxy because they are trying to fill "air bubbles". These bubbles are either bridging or wrinkles (bunching), so it comes down to yarn management.
The front is the SeaLect 8" round and the aft hatch is their 17-1/4 x 10" oval. www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-gear/kayak-gear-accessories/rubber-kayak-hatch.html
@@yusufbingol6794 I do not sell these myself. There are several manufacturers making similar hatches that are interchangeable with these. You may be able to find a cheaper source locally.
Always fun to watch and learn.
Second time in as many videos, I have seen Bill finish pumping the epoxy and leaving off the last hardener pump. Probably won't affect the overall result, but thought I should mention it. My OCD is tweaked! Great instruction!
All the batches have hardened up fine, so I'm not worried, but I edit the video a bit so you may not see all the pumping action. Lately I've switched to my fancy pump which is more accurate and faster than the ketchup pumps.
No pumps for me. I mark cups, Pour the resin, and pump the hardener, to the marks on the cups. I really like the smaller, Cigar type rollers, over the larger black foam rollers. It seems I can move the cloth, at least for my canoes.
I intend to do a video on all the different methods of measuring I can think of. Each has its own benefits. While marked cups is a good one, it has the downside of only being good for one size batch (or however many marks you make) so if you need just a little bit to finish up, you need to mark new cups or just go with the given batch size.
This is really a great tutorial on glassing, especially dealing with the bridging. Wish I had known that in the S&Gs I built.
Lots of folks struggle with the inside of hulls and decks. Often their problems are related to bridging. They end up adding too much epoxy because they are trying to fill "air bubbles". These bubbles are either bridging or wrinkles (bunching), so it comes down to yarn management.
Sensacional excelente trabalho parabéns !!!
Thank you!
Can you write the hatch cover dimensions?
The front is the SeaLect 8" round and the aft hatch is their 17-1/4 x 10" oval. www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-gear/kayak-gear-accessories/rubber-kayak-hatch.html
Do you have any discount codes?
These hatch covers are too expensive for my country. If possible, it would be great.
@@yusufbingol6794 I do not sell these myself. There are several manufacturers making similar hatches that are interchangeable with these. You may be able to find a cheaper source locally.