front towbars usually used to moove caravans around too we use ours to moove trailers just for ref its funny ive just had an 89 110 blasted and its a minter came from the faulklands
It's such a shame that once Land-Rover realised early-on that the chassis rots-out,they didn't just build them on a galvanised chassis straight from the factory or at least make it an option,and the bulk-head.The extra few quid on top of the price of a new car would have been so low in percentage terms that it would have made a lot of sense.Most of the other parts that rot can be sorted with a half-decent socket set
I have just fnished the chassis on a 1971 series 3 , never again unless i have a huge workshop and have the thrinf stripped down to nothing. Dirty , stinking horrible old work grinding and welding them up
This appears to be a far-too common problem on Land Rovers. Worse yet, this appears to me to go all the way back to the original Land Rover of 1948. Has Rover or Land Rover ever done anything to protect their chassis frames from rust? It doesn't appear to me as if they have.
The press documents for the original Discovery stated a galvanized chassis whether they did that or not Disco 1 chassis are usually good but bodies rotted for fun. My disco 2 chassis certainly wasn't galvanised and was made of thin laminated steel with too many water trap points and it failed spectacularly. I'm currently having it replaced with a far better designed galvanised chassis to correct what Land Rover failed to do
hi, its simply discraceful that land rover has been allowed to get away with inferior chassis all these years ! a bit of sea water and this is the result., thicker box section chassis and a dip into the waxoyl tank thats what i would do
Whats the legality of putting a new galv chassis on which will not have the VIN on it, how does that work at the test centre if the inspector cannot find a VIN number on the chassis..thanks.
For MOT purposes, the VIN number is on the bulkhead (under the screen on the left hand side), and on the plate under the bonnet on the brake servo. On most Defenders, you can't see the stamped number on the chassis anyway due to a) underseal, b)previous welding, c) steering guard fitment. Exporting overseas is another matter though.
@@motodromehenleyonthames I only ask because here in the republic of Ireland when you present the vehicle for test, the inspector will not test it if they cannot see the VIN where it should be on the chassis, even if you have all the other locations marked with the VIN.
we do advise people looking to export ones with galvanised chassis from the UK that they may have that sort of problem, and that it's best not to bother.
@@davidheap5338 A friend had a galvanised chassis replacement a few years ago, presented the MOT test centre with invoice for the work and didn't have any problems then or since.
More patches than chasis, it's really rusty, Thanks for sharing
front towbars usually used to moove caravans around too we use ours to moove trailers just for ref its funny ive just had an 89 110 blasted and its a minter came from the faulklands
It's such a shame that once Land-Rover realised early-on that the chassis rots-out,they didn't just build them on a galvanised chassis straight from the factory or at least make it an option,and the bulk-head.The extra few quid on top of the price of a new car would have been so low in percentage terms that it would have made a lot of sense.Most of the other parts that rot can be sorted with a half-decent socket set
but then they'd never have sold newer ones once the originals were knackered - planned obsolescence
I have just fnished the chassis on a 1971 series 3 , never again unless i have a huge workshop and have the thrinf stripped down to nothing. Dirty , stinking horrible old work grinding and welding them up
Got rid of my 2007 Defender 90 which although 100% reliable for the 19 years l had it due to a rusty chassis.
This appears to be a far-too common problem on Land Rovers. Worse yet, this appears to me to go all the way back to the original Land Rover of 1948. Has Rover or Land Rover ever done anything to protect their chassis frames from rust? It doesn't appear to me as if they have.
The press documents for the original Discovery stated a galvanized chassis whether they did that or not Disco 1 chassis are usually good but bodies rotted for fun. My disco 2 chassis certainly wasn't galvanised and was made of thin laminated steel with too many water trap points and it failed spectacularly. I'm currently having it replaced with a far better designed galvanised chassis to correct what Land Rover failed to do
hi, its simply discraceful that land rover has been allowed to get away with inferior chassis all these years ! a bit of sea water and this is the result., thicker box section chassis and a dip into the waxoyl tank thats what i would do
Whats the legality of putting a new galv chassis on which will not have the VIN on it, how does that work at the test centre if the inspector cannot find a VIN number on the chassis..thanks.
For MOT purposes, the VIN number is on the bulkhead (under the screen on the left hand side), and on the plate under the bonnet on the brake servo. On most Defenders, you can't see the stamped number on the chassis anyway due to a) underseal, b)previous welding, c) steering guard fitment. Exporting overseas is another matter though.
@@motodromehenleyonthames I only ask because here in the republic of Ireland when you present the vehicle for test, the inspector will not test it if they cannot see the VIN where it should be on the chassis, even if you have all the other locations marked with the VIN.
we do advise people looking to export ones with galvanised chassis from the UK that they may have that sort of problem, and that it's best not to bother.
My landrover dealer stamped new replacement and cut up the old one.
@@davidheap5338 A friend had a galvanised chassis replacement a few years ago, presented the MOT test centre with invoice for the work and didn't have any problems then or since.
is it possible to get stainless steel chassis?
not as far as I'm aware
Only in galvanised steel
How much would work like this cost?
to do it properly, 5 to 6k plus the cost of the chassis. Can be done for about 3k if you cut corners - we didn't.
mine cost 10k
Mine cost 6 000 with new suspension and brake lines.took 7 days turn around.
@@harleycg75 Where did you get it done?
Mines was worst lol 1982 stage 1 v8
I have a 82's Stage 1 3.9L Diesel and it was no where near this bad, but im in Aus so not as wet.